(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 5,669 posts
  • 423 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by pindel
  • Topic is favorited by 199 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#899 7 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Finally got my EBD up and runnng, playable and into the game room after sitting in the garage for almost a year!
Anyone with good suggestions on adding LEDs? Brand, colors, etc

Please no. LED's don't fade in & out like regular incandescent bulbs do... that & they just don't have the warmth.
You lose the original look of EBD.

2 weeks later
#928 7 years ago

If you have not re-pinned all of the connectors, I would do so. Very tedious work, but will save you from chasing problems in the long run.
Been there, done that on several -35 Bally pins. Super common problem area.

#932 7 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Update: reseated all connectors and all the little gremlins seem to have disappeared...but new problem. None of the displays are working. Which connector is responsible? Has to be a connector??

Temporary fix at best. Repin all

1 week later
#948 7 years ago
Quoted from HPR:

All transparent plastics are home made with polycarbonate, they won't brake anymore.

Brake?

2 weeks later
#1005 7 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Embryon has metal guides.

Indeed it does, not even a plastic piece there or any room for one.

1 month later
#1071 7 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

I wouldn't say one color was an absolute for 1984-85 but a lot of them had yellow flipper rubbers but I've seen some with the red ones too. It's hard to recall plus most have been replaced several times over the years.

I recall pale yellow as well when they were new.

#1076 7 years ago

Humph, you need to come to the cabin tomorrow & play poker.

1 month later
#1112 7 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Yeah but then it doesn't look they way it is supposed to. For those of us purists who played these machines when they were new, LEDs look wrong. Younger pinball fans who weren't around back then are usually more open to mods like this.

For me, it is the warmth and "fade in & fade out" of incandescent bulbs that LED's are lacking. They just do not look right in the older pins.

1 month later
#1172 7 years ago
Quoted from Humph:

Thx -- will do, that's my next step.

Hey Humphrey you going to start working on that EDB soon?

4 weeks later
#1200 6 years ago
Quoted from shutyertrap:

Okay, need some help. Replaced very cooked knocker coil with new one, but it still doesn't trigger. What should I look at as the culprit?

The more detailed the troubleshooting advice, the better! I'm new to all this.

See 3i of Clay's old Bally SS repair guide...
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm

1 week later
#1228 6 years ago
Quoted from manples:

Ok this is either a newbie question or a weird thing that you will debate about soon
I was checking the pin headers and noticed they all have what I thought was a burnt pin:

In fact these dark pins are full of a greenish grease... What is that ? Some "contact" grease maybe ? why ?
And it seems to have a pattern, like pin #9 from the right. Please tell me it's ok and I don't have to replace them all I've tried to clean one with alcohol and an air gun but it's always there...

I always wondered that too. I have seen it on my old Embryon... Originally, I thought that it was a battery corrosion problem - but what I finally found out that is the insulation on the wire breaking down. On the current 1980 Stern Seawitch I'm working on, it happens to be a brown wire with I think yellow stripe. it's nasty stuff too.

#1231 6 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#So.2C_Just_What_is_this_Green_Slime.3F
Nasty stuff indeed. Repin both sides as soon as you can. The slime will effect the connection which makes it run hotter and builds carbon quicker, etc, etc...
Shawn

You know, I thought about it & I may cut the offending green slime wire back 6" and splice in a new end to crimp to the connector. Keep it from leaching out & causing problems in the future.

1 month later
#1329 6 years ago

Must be that time of day, eh Humph?

1 month later
#1381 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Thanks guys, I'll check these protectors out.

The only drawback to playfield protectors is star rollover switches, on a slow roll in certain places the ball can hang up on the edge. Not often, but it does happen. That being said, I have one on my Old Chicago & love it.

1 week later
#1411 6 years ago
Quoted from Humph:

That looks interesting.
Does it blend well with the outlanes & can you post pics after installation ?
I may want to do something similar during my EBD resto.

Man, I would keep it original. But then I suppose it's not permanent & you could swap it back.

1 week later
#1444 6 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

There's no need to remove the entire bank from the pf. Just unplug the 9 pin connector, remove 2 screws from each side that holds the memory coil bracket in place. The coils look correct, drops for ball 1-9 and 2-10 are controlled by the SEB, that's why they have the extra lug. Make sure the plungers for the other 6 memory coils move freely. I don't think the SEB would cause a coil to fry, only fail to switch from one coil to the other if it did fail. I would suspect the driver transistor.
With the memory coils unplugged, do the other coils fire during self test?

The schematic is your friend.

2 months later
#1521 6 years ago

For God's sake. Save yourself a lot of pain & suffering & re-pin the whole thing.
Been there, done that.

Best advise I EVER got on SS Bally pin repair.

3 months later
#1591 6 years ago
Quoted from Troyster42:

Hi Guys,
Hoping for some help. I picked up a EBD LTD for a friend last week. It will be his first pin and I wanted to look over it a little. Everything works and plays fine. The MPU goes through the 7 flashes and the sound 5. This still has a rechargeable battery on the board, I’m pretty sure its not original. When I first looked at it the sound was set to the default chimes I think it wasn’t played enough and the battery drained. I went into the self test and set it to 03 so it sounds normal again. Now I can’t get back into the book keeping or adjustments. I can do the self tests and when I push the button again there is nothing. Even trying to push it 23+ times there is still nothing just the GI and the only way to get out of it is to turn it off and back on. Its still retaining the sound setting and high score. Could it be the ram chip is going bad? I was going to suggest to him putting a 3 aa battery pack off board but if it could be the chip maybe go with a nvram from Pintech, simple swap of the chip.

Just do the NVRAM & be done with it forever

2 weeks later
#1668 6 years ago
Quoted from Tember:

Great thread...
I am restoring a very tired EBD, all harnesses etc, I am thinking I want to replace the #555's with bayonet holders.
Is that generally the most reliable solution?
Ted

yes

2 weeks later
#1712 6 years ago

Best advise I ever got as a newbie was from Clay Harrell back in the day... ALWAYS repin every connector on early Bally SS pins, male & female. that green goo is most likely from the insulation breaking down on a wire. Seems like I had the most problem with brown wires doing that. Also, start by totally rebuilding the power supply....

3 weeks later
#1778 6 years ago
Quoted from jj44114:

His stencils are garbage.

Got trash

1 year later
#2139 5 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Me too.
I leave my coin mechs fully operational and do not have free play on any of my pins. Free play ruins the game for me.

As do I, but I add a tiny hidden momentary pushbutton switch next to the on/off toggle on the bottom of the machine. Just wire it to a coin switch. Best of both worlds, free play if you want, & coin op always available.
Yeah, overkill on the wire gauge, but it's what I had lying around at the time.
switch (resized).JPGswitch (resized).JPG
IMG_3364 (resized).JPGIMG_3364 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#2159 4 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

First impression to me is a lamp matrix addressing issue. I'm assuming it's never worked for you since you just bought it....do you know the repair/upkeep history of the machine from the previous owner? First thing I'd do is re-pin the J4 connector on the Lamp driver board (which contains the four lamp matrix addressing wires). Prior to that, you could try pulling off the connector and re-seating it, and/or while the game is running try wiggling that connector and see if the behavior changes. If it does, that's your culprit. If it doesn't, I'd still repin that (and pretty much all) connectors on the nearly 40 year old machine. Re-pinned connectors often fix many squirrely issues.

100% agree. Tedious & time consuming, but it needs done for sure. Male & female sides

2 months later
#2274 4 years ago

Eight ball, not eight ball deluxe

3 weeks later
#2286 4 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

What do people use to replace the peeling off foam strips on the ends of the original displays? There has to be something better.[quoted image][quoted image]

Look on McMaster Carr. They have EVERYTHING

7 months later
#2751 4 years ago
Quoted from slicknick13:

So I grabbed this freebie the other day. It's missing a lot and has a cut harness, but the only spare parts I'm missing are a slingshot and the 7 bank drop target. I have enough bally scrap wire around to make the rest of the harness and I'll just make a molex splice.
I think I can make a game out of it on the cheap. One of those no-rush, grab the parts when I can deals. I'll make a thread when I get more stuff.
At the very least, I can drop it into my Kings of Steel cab until I can get the transformer and cabinet squared away.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You guys in PA have no idea how good you have it....
An EBD for free? Seriously?

Well, at least our liquor stores are open here in Oregon.

2 weeks later
#2917 3 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yes, installed correctly doesn’t work for orginal board or alltek. Thanks! Probably a connector issue but I am trying to figure out which connector is the problem.

If you have one connector with issues, re-pin all. Will save you hassles down the road. Both male & female sides.

2 weeks later
#2954 3 years ago
Quoted from Boltronix:

That pf is looks pretty nice. How much you want ? I would get her up n running than fine tune it all. this game is awesome.

Cut that battery off of the MPU pronto!

Looks really nice overall, repin all connectors (male & female), do recommended board updates, Add NVRAM, rebuild flippers, drop targets, pop bumpers, slingshots, then clean it up & play.
Don't goober it all up with LED's - incandescent all the way.

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