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(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

6 years ago

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Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (3 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (3 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (3 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (1 year ago)

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#1813 2 years ago

Wondering if anyone could help me with a playfield light issue on my EBD Classic? A couple of weeks ago, an issue started with the billiard ball lights on the playfield. In Player 1 mode, as balls 1 thru 7 start to light up as a result of targets dropping, balls 8-15 start lighting up dimly and progressively get brighter (when 8-15 should be all off). Conversely in Player 2 mode, as balls 8-15 light up as a result of targets dropping, balls 1-7 start lighting up dimly and progressively get brighter (when 1-7 should be all off).

In addition to this occurring during gameplay, a very similar thing occurs when the playfield lights are in attract mode in-between games. Here's a short video to see exactly what I’m talking about:

I’ve tried re-seating all of the connectors on the Alltek LED light board in the back box. I visually inspected the wires to the LEDs and I don’t see anything loose or in need of re-soldering. Any suggestions to point me in the right direction? Thank you!

#1816 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I would try putting the incandescent lamps back in and see if anything changes. Also contact Alltek support and explain the issue. They are usually quick on the reply. Is jumper installed from alltek to switched lamp bus as per alltek instructions? Verify switched lamp voltage is in spec.

Quoted from gorgar007:

Alltek board requires the extra jumper wire to connect directly to a controlled lamp. Did that get disconnected?
Without the jumper wire installed the controlled lamps definitely behave strangely.

Thanx, guys. I put back in the incandescents, no change. I confirmed that the jumper wire from TP13 on the Alltek board is still attached to the control lamp on the back box. I've got a VM, but I'm a newbie at pinball ownership and am not sure where to check voltages or what the values should be. Can you point me in the right directly for that?

The Aux Lamp Driver Board in my EBD is still the original Bally one - should that be updated to the Alltek LED/Lamp Driver board as well? The configuration I have now did work flawlessly for about 3 months till I hit this issue.

Thanx again!

1 month later
#1841 2 years ago

I'm really hoping someone can help me with a playfield light issue I'm having....

I converted a 1984 Bally Eight Ball Deluxe "Classic" pinball machine from standard lamps to LEDs using a new Alltek Lamp Driver board. Everything worked fine for about 4 months. Now, when a certain number of lights illuminate in the "rack" on the playfield (the Middle Playfield Light Distribution board), the remaining lights (which should be off) dimly illuminate.

See the video I posted on YouTube which illustrates the exact problem and includes photos of all the PCBs in the pin:

I've tried:
- Replacing the 4-month old Alltek Lamp Driver board with a new one (TP13 is installed/attached to control lamp)
- Replacing the original Bally Aux Lamp Driver board with a new Alltek (tried with TP3 both attached to and detached from control lamp)
- Replacing the original Bally Power Rectifier board with a new Gulf Pinball board
- Cleaning the traces and solder joints on the original Bally Middle Playfield Light Distribution board.

What I haven't done:
- Replace the original Bally Middle Playfield Light Distribution board (I don't have one / can’t find one)
- Re-pin any Molex connectors. On the surface, it doesn't seem necessary as the behavior is acting like a "crosstalk" power issue affecting multiple (all) lights on the Middle Playfield Light Distro board
- Replace any LEDs (for the same reason as above)
- Re-solder any connectors (for the same reason as above)

Have any of you guys seen anything like this before?

Thank you in advance for any help/guidance you can provide!

1 week later
#1848 2 years ago

Can anyone tell me if there are supposed to be two pieces (upper and lower) to the Left and Right Ball Guide Assemblies? I just noticed my EBD has only the one metal one and some plastic replacement kits I've seen come with clear plastic ones. Can't find a clear picture of this area of the playfield on the internet, but some I've seen looks like it has both the clear plastic (on bottom) and the metal (on top) separated by posts. If that's the way it's supposed to be, does anyone know where to get the proper posts? I have the clear plastic pieces on the way to me - meanwhile this is what my EBD looks like in its present Left and Right Ball Guide configuration. And yes I'll be replacing the rubbers soon and the playfield could use a good cleaning as well:

IMG_5565 (resized).jpgIMG_5566 (resized).jpg
#1851 2 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

there should be a plastic guide underneath the metal guide using the same bell posts

Quoted from chalkup8:

Correct,it keeps the ball from touching and running down the metal ball guide piece.

Thanx, guys. So I can just use the existing posts and stack the metal piece on top of the plastic piece? I don't suppose you could snap a pic of what the proper finished assembly looks like? I should have the plastic pieces in hand by Wednesday.

#1853 2 years ago

Thank you, Shawn. That helps very much so that it confirms that I think I'm still missing some pieces besides the plastic. I appear to have only that top part of the post/standoff from the screw head down to the top of the plastic piece. I need to find, somehow, the post/standoff from the underside of the plastic to the playfield. So far I've come up short with Marco's, and my EBD OPS manual doesn't call out the post/standoff pieces with part numbers. I'll search some more today.....thanx again.

#1855 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

You are not going to find it because the "topcoat" post you are looking for is part of the plastic!

Aha! I guess I'll find out Wednesday - I ordered the complete EBD plastics set from CPR last week. It's hard to tell from CPR's pictures if the post is there on the underside....I hope sure it is. Thank you!

ebdplastics (resized).jpg
#1858 2 years ago

Thanx - that's kinda what I feared/figured. Bally must've used that ball guide design on other pins of the same era which should hopefully widen up the search. I'll keep looking!!

1 month later
2 months later
#1886 1 year ago
Quoted from tenjuna:

I must have pleased the pinball gods, as I scored a 1981 EBD for $300 over the weekend. Definitely in player's condition, will need a new playfield at some point, but otherwise in fair condition. I figured it needed a new rectifier board, but in an even greater stroke of luck it was literally a fuse. Plays perfectly fine.
Will be doing a mild restore on it besides the playfield which will need replaced or maybe CPR will do a reprint on it when they get that service going.

Congrats on that find! I hope the pinball gods are as kind to me someday - I'm keeping my eyes peeled for similar scores in the Denver area but everything lately seems to be overpriced DMDs.

#1888 1 year ago

Looking for some guidance on how to address this minor problem. About 2 times out of 10 on average, the outhole kicker can't get the ball to the trough - the ball falls back to the kicker and it's retried (see video below - kicks #6 and #8 fail). The only time it really aggravates me is when it does it several times in a row, which has happened a few times.

Are there any adjustments that can be made? Replace the coil? Thanx for any input!

#1891 1 year ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Had that exact issue on my Flash Gordon. It took quite a while to find. I originally thought it was the kicker head hitting the ball off center which I have had before. Then I replaced the coil sleeve assuming it was just too slow. In this case it was the drain switch wireform, it would not go down enough not to lift the ball slightly. It has a lower limit and if incorrectly set it can hold the ball up a bit. If the ball sat in the "U" shape at the bottom of the channel waiting to be kicked and got over the wireform it would push out of the way to the left (when looking from behind), let the ball sit down properly and get kicked correctly. If it entered just so, the ball could lean on the uphill side of the "U" and on the wire form holding the ball up just a bit. The ball would then be slightly to the left when watching from behind waiting to see it get kicked. The ball movement had enough wobble to not make it over the hill. On my FG, it would occasionally misfire, then sometimes have to try 5 times in a row before it succeeded.

Thanx for that....I'll take a closer look when I'm home from work tonight!

#1892 1 year ago
Quoted from g94:

I had some clear plastic protector sets cut out with the laser from 2mm thick acrylate.
There was some free space on the plate and I filled it up with a few sets of clear inlane guides for Eight Ball Deluxe. They are an exact copy of the original clear plastics that were in my game. Here's how the new set looks once installed:
[quoted image][quoted image]
In case somebody is interested in a set (of 2 guides), then send me a PM with your address.
For good understanding: I'm not setting up a business, just trying to help people with yellowed or broken plastics. I only have a limited amount of sets. I'm charging 8€, worldwide shipping included (in an enveloppe). This is a photo of a new set (obviously here with blue protective film still on, the actual plastics are crystal clear of course...).
[quoted image]

Wow...your playfield, side boards, apron, etc. look super vibrant and pristine. Care to share some additional hi-rez pix of your entire machine? Part of me would love to see it, another part of me not so much as it'll make me feel bad about my own EBD.

#1894 1 year ago
Quoted from g94:

Well thank you sir! Here it is:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I restored my EBD about a year ago. It took me about 200 hrs if I recall well. Here is the restoration thread.

Absolutely gorgeous. And thank you for your restoration thread - the attention to detail in both your machine and documentation is outstanding. And, as I feared, I'm now feeling inadequate about my EBD.

#1895 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Looking for some guidance on how to address this minor problem. About 2 times out of 10 on average, the outhole kicker can't get the ball to the trough - the ball falls back to the kicker and it's retried (see video below - kicks #6 and #8 fail). The only time it really aggravates me is when it does it several times in a row, which has happened a few times.

Are there any adjustments that can be made? Replace the coil? Thanx for any input!

Issue resolved (or worst case, made a lot more reliable)! Upon closer examination of the kicker assembly, I noticed the little plastic shroud around the coil mounting backet post was a bit loose/wobbly. Because of this, the kicker arm would rest back closer to that post. When that happens, the part of the kicker that touches the ball would not be square with ball and instead be off to the side a bit (a bit like bjm-maxx described). I'm thinking this is what might be causing the occasional "misfire" on my machine.

I took the cotter pin off the post and removed the plastic shroud. I then cut down and wrapped some electrical tape around the post, then forced the plastic shroud back down over the taped post so it's nice and tight and reinserted the cotter pin. It's solid movement on the post. And this forces the kicker to be square up on the ball.

Before applying this bit of jury-rigging, the kicker would fail to launch the ball into the shooter lane about 2 times out of 10 on average. After, it's worked 50 for 50 so far. Time will tell how solid this is, but I'm pretty happy for now. Unexpected side benefit - the kicker action actually seems a lot quieter now.

3 months later
#1957 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Interestingly, the left post had two other holes drilled (it was set in the middle position), but the right post had no additional holes.

Weird that right sling doesn't have all three holes. Mine does (1984 version) - here's the diagram if it helps anyone. Also, the manual has the recommended scoring options based on the same post settings (Conservative / Medium / Liberal).
EBD '84 Panel Parts.jpg

#1962 1 year ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Hey guys. Joined the club yesterday with a project machine. I’m so excited to get started. Brought home a good example of an early production game with white caps. Playfield is a bit worn but not horrible. Backglass has some peeling paint. The game is completely disassembled. The cabinet is empty except the powered board and transformer. It came with a bin full of parts. Looks like everything is there. More importantly the package included a new CPR Playfield and shay backglass. Cabinet and head are decent. At some point will likely strip and paint them but the initial phase will be to clean everything up and restore all the guts, swap the Playfield , get it running and then play the hell out of it for a while. Thanks pinsider Cheddar for everything!
A few pics. You can see the side of the head where someone added some cream paint over the original. A little ME and alcohol pulls that up without disturbing the paint underneath.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club! Have you thought about starting a new thread and documenting your rebuild/restoration process? I know a lot of folks (myself included) love watching other people's work. Great for learning and getting new ideas.

#1964 1 year ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Thank thank you Mathazar. I thought about it but I was thinking there are plenty of similar threads and I’m just a home hobbyist average guy. I would like to do a thread so maybe your encouragement we’ll get me to do it.

I'm just a home hobbyist as well....been a player for 40+ years, but didn't buy my first pin until this time last year (EBD). A few months later, I bought a NIB Star Trek Pro Vault. The next month, I bought a Black Knight. Over the summer, I started doing my own maintenance on the old solid states (I have an electronics background early in my career) and I got enough courage to buy not one project Mata Hari last month, but two. Neither worked and picked them up for a few hundred each. Goal is to restore one for keeps and get the other to a working player's condition and flip. I'm by far no pro, but I'm starting to document my journey on the keeper Mata Hari - will be putting up a dedicated thread on that soon. I'm going to get it working 100% first (almost there), then do a topside tear down for a hard top install, and then put it all back with new plastics and a tasteful LED conversion. After I play with that for a while, I'm going to tear everything out again and get it down to a naked cabinet and backbox and have a local guy repair the wood and repaint (that's out of my comfort zone). While the cabinet is out for paint, I'll tumble the smaller steel pieces for a nice shine and try to revive the bigger pieces by hand. Then it's re-assembly and hopefully a permanent place in my game room lineup.

Good luck with reviving your EBD, Dave!


#1972 1 year ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Anybody have problems with saucer shots sometimes skipping over and past the saucer? It is aggravating especially when lit for big points or special. It’s an NOS pf and new plastics all from many years ago. I’ve tried pushing the outer clear guide plastic as far inward as it can go while tightening it down which seemed to improve it but still happens sometimes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Yes - this happens to me on mine as well and quite often...probably 5 or 6 times out of 10. I remember having the same issue as a kid in the arcade back in the 80's, so I just figured it's a tough skill shot on this game. On the bright side...the saucer hole is in nice shape, not beat up at all.

#1979 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Ughhh. I just got done switching over the playfield lighting (and under the playfield) to LEDs, and some of them are flickering, even though they're supposed to be non-ghosting.
Also, the right target bank is not popping up at all. I don't think I bumped anything but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Are you running the original Bally lamp board? If so, your LEDs will flicker (including non-ghosting). You need an Alltek lamp board (, or Flicker Eliminator Adapter ( or put resistors on each control lamp socket one by one.

#1981 1 year ago

Holy crap - this shop wants $6K for an EBD LE! link » Eight Ball Deluxe By Bally Limited Edition Original Pinball Machine 1982

How hard is it to put the correct drop targets in when trying to collect $6K? And there are 15 Watchers....I'm hoping they're watching to see which fool drops $6K on at best a $2500 example.

#1985 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

They seem fine. I'm wondering if I knocked a wire loose somewhere when I was installing the LEDs.

I would pull the fuses out and check with a DMM to be sure - only takes a few seconds. I've been bitten a couple of times by visual inspection and learned my lesson the hard way. Spent an hour or more looking for problems elsewhere after looking at a fuse and thinking it's ok only to find that it's actually open/blown after pulling it out and putting a DMM on it.

#1987 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Ok, this is weird. Although the 7-drop-target bank doesn't reset (pop back up) at the start of the game, or for a second player, it does pop up when doing the solenoid diagnostic test. That implies there is power to the assembly, but why isn't it popping up as it should during the game?

While in game mode, drop each target with your finger. Does each target score?

1 week later
#1998 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

I have a strange problem with the 2x and 4x multiplier on my EBD (1984 version).
When I hit the 2x, sometimes the LED under the playfield briefly lights the green 4x before switching to the 2x LED. Other times it lights up the 4x and doesn't switch to the 2x indicator. If I actually get to the point of hitting the 4x target, the LED doesn't advance to that (it stays on 3x), and no sound indicates that any change occurred.
The wiring doesn't look like there is any problem, but if I trace the wires back to the board is there a way to know whether they are connected to the appropriate socket? Is there a diagram that shows where each wire (2x and 4x) should be connected?

See the red highlighted areas on the EBD Wiring Diagrams for the Playfield and Lamp Module below. Even if they look good visually, I'd recommend re-pinning them. The ones in the left most red box are the address lines and the ones on the right are the multiplier lights. And you can confirm that the wires are in the correct places on the connector by looking at what wire colors are in what pin location.
EBD Wire Color Code.jpgEBD Wiring Diagram.jpg

EBD Wiring Diagram (Lamp Module).jpg

#2019 1 year ago

Here are a few pix from my the underside of my EBD (upper left corner) - use the rollover as a frame of reference to match up with your pix.

Rollover 01.jpgRollover 02.jpgRollover 03.jpg
1 week later
#2022 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

One of the problems I'm trying to solve on my EBD is shown in this video. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

First, the announcing of "3-ball" at power on means that the machine is set to 3 ball play (doesn't have anything to do with your 3-ball problem). If the machine was set to 5 ball play, it would announce "5-ball" at power on and so on.

Is this target issue you're having new behavior (did it ever work)? Was there any recent work done on the machine?

#2023 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

One of the problems I'm trying to solve on my EBD is shown in this video. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Are there ANY other odd target or lamp behaviors, or is it ONLY the 1 and 3 combination and 9 and 11 combination?

#2030 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Refer to post #2000 previous page about the multiplier drop targets. To add to that, try closing the 2X target switch by hand and see if it does the same thing. If the game is scoring the 4X target, then the switch for 4 must be closing somehow, maybe contacts too close or problem with matrix. Not sure what you mean by schematic not matching, can you explain?

It's interesting that the 2x and 4x multiplier switches are on the same wire in the matrix as the 1-9 and 3-11 targets, respectively. Don't quite know what to make of that yet.

Switch Matrix (resized).jpg
#2035 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Where would this switch matrix be in the machine?

The switch matrix is "logical" in that the schematic represents how all of the switches are physically connected/wired, not necessarily where they reside on the machine itself.

I'll take a look at my EBD tonight to see if I can get any inspiration on next steps. I've stared at the switch matrix in the schematic for a while hoping some commonality would pop to me that explain all of the odd behavior. It's likely we're dealing with >1 issue.

Run thru the steps that lovef2k provided above for going thru the self test on switches and report back. That could help us with the next move(s).

#2037 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

when I look at the wiring under the playfield, I see that the 2x multiplier has a white/green wire coming from it.

Can you post a good clear picture of that wire connected to the 2x multiplier? Are you looking at the 2x switch (drop target) or 2x lamp? Do you have a DMM to confirm the start and end points of the wire are indeed the same wire? FWIW, the Alltek MPU board (and Alltek Lamp board if you have one of those in your system as well) is pin for pin compatible with all of the machines it supports, including EBD. The connectors (and keys for the connectors) all line up.

In the schematic above, references to connectors on "A4" are the connectors on the MPU board (for example "A4J2-8") whereas references to connectors on "A5" are the connectors on the Lamp board (for example, "A5J1-27").

#2043 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Here's the video showing the Multiplier problem. When the 2x is hit, it briefly lights the 4x lamp before switching to the 2x lamp (occasionally the 4x lamp stays on and doesn't switch to the 2x lamp). It scores as 4x though. Once the 3x is hit, the proper lamp lights up, but it still scores as 4x. When the 4x is hit, no sound is made, the 3x lamp stays lit, and scoring stays at 4x. When 5x is hit it does advance scoring to 5x and the proper lamp is lit.

Makes me wonder if the x4 drop target switch is shorted somehow. Would be interesting to "remove" it from the equation and then see if the preceding 2X and 3X drop targets then act/score correctly. Do you have a pin removal tool? As a test, you could remove the pin from the A4J2-10 connector on the MPU board, put the connector back on the MPU, and see if the behavior of the x2 and x3 drop targets gets better or has no affect.

Or instead of removing A4J2-10 from the connector, you could temporarily unsolder the White with Orange stripe wire from the 4x drop target switch and see how the x2 and x3 targets behave.

#2045 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

I don't have a pin removal tool, but would I be able to bend the pin 45 degrees to test without it and then bend it back, or are they more brittle than that?

Depending on how well/poorly it aged, it could be brittle. Do you have a soldering iron? It would take mere seconds to desolder the White with Orange stripe wire from the switch, then test, then another few seconds to solder the wire back.

#2055 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Are you saying to unplug this connection?
[quoted image]

Yes - pretty sure vec-tor is suggesting to eliminate the circuitry on the coin door (which is what is on the MPU J3 connector) for a test. If things start to behave, something on the coin door (slam switch, perhaps) is interfering. A few folks here have seen that before.

#2082 1 year ago

Looks green-ish in the photo with red decals....could be a Mata Hari apron.

#2083 1 year ago

I found and fixed this issue on my EBD this afternoon and thought I'd document it and share in case someone runs into something similar. I've had this EBD for a little more than a year now and tinkered around with it enough so that it has been extremely reliable for the last 9 or 10 months (including re-pinning most of the connectors into the backbox PCBs). It gets daily use and is one of my favorite machines.

This afternoon, we noticed some lights were out on the playfield. When the machine turns on, you can see all of the lights flash and sequence for a few seconds. Then, the X and the second E in DELUXE flicker and go out. When those go out, all of the lights in the left orbit lane go out and stay out as does the Special and 70K lights for the in-lane and all the white strobe lights except for the top ones. Plus the pop bumper lamps as well. Watch the short video for a visual.

Same lights don't turn on in the Lamp self test.

Since all of these happened at once, I did not suspect burned out bulbs or loose sockets or anything like that. There had to be something common between these lamps and whatever the issue was, it was somewhat intermittent as cycling power always got them to work for a few seconds, then the same lamps would go out again and stay out.

I eyeballed all the wires and sockets under the playfield that controlled the affected lamps. I wiggled wires, wiggled sockets, and pressed on connectors for the lamp boards underneath the playfield. I did find some poor wiring jobs from previous owners under the playfield that I did not like but I'll sort those out later as they likely don't have anything to do with this current issue.

I pulled out the schematics to see if there was anything electrically common between the affected lamps thinking maybe all of them were on the same connector or something and I could focus on that. Unfortunately, that wasn't the case - looking at A9 Aux Lamp board where all of these lights live, it was spread across 2 connectors (J2/J3). Still, it was possible there are multiple connectors with problems but it just seemed unlikely that this would all happen at once. As I stared at the schematic some more, a pattern jumped out at me that connected all of this together - the same sequence of lights that work and don't work appeared on each of the 4 decoder chips U2, U3, U4, and U5. See the diagram below - I put red hash marks next to the lamps that don't work. Notice there are 7 lamps for each decoder chip, and the sequence from top to bottom for each chip go 2 not working, 2 working, 2 not working, 1 working. This is an addressing problem! Looking at the binary bits for each of those 7 lamps on each of the 4 decoder chips:

000 (doesn't work)
001 (doesn't work)
010 (works)
011 (works)
100 (doesn't work)
101 (doesn't work)
110 (works)

Anything with "0" for bit 1 doesn't work. If a wire is open, it'll default to high (on or "1") which would explain why some lamps work and some don't, and it's the same lamp position on each of the 4 decoder chips.

Addressing is controlled by AD0, AD1, and AD2 (upper left corner of the diagram). AD1 is for Bit 1 addressing, and it may be open. AD1 is Pin 1 for the J1 connector on the A9 Aux Lamp Driver board. And it's one of the board connectors that I DID NOT re-pin last year when I got the machine. I pulled off the connector, pulled out the wire and pin, and sure enough the clip on the pin was brittle, oxidized, and bent. I re-pinned just that one pin and put it like a champ now.

Family is getting a lot of use out of this machine during Spring Break this week, so I'm going to leave it as it is (working) for now and will plan on re-pinning the rest of the connectors soon.

While the above is documented for EBD, the basic principle can be applied to any SS game, Bally or other, and not just lamps (solenoids come to mind, like when you have seemingly random or out of sequence fires). It's just good practice to re-pin *everything* on these 30-40 year old machines, something I get reminded of often.
Aux Lamp Board (resized).jpg

1 week later
#2129 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

To make a Bally game have "free play" with the Alltek, the left dip switch setting must me turned on.

I've got Allteks in a couple of my Bally's, but I don't use the free play feature. Part of reliving the arcade days of my youth is to try to drive up the credits by winning free games during game play, kind of a "game outside of the game" approach to the fun. The wife thinks I'm silly since every game is free anyway, but there's such a satisfaction for me to making that knocker knock, especially getting the three-in-a-row knocker spelling out D-E-L-U-X-E on EBD or setting a new score on Mata Hari. Sometimes on Mata Hari I can get into a zone where dropping all of the targets scores a game, making the A-B loop scores a game every other loop, and hit one of the high game score thresholds all on one ball. The other night I got 9 free games on one ball and set a personal best high score for a total of 12 credits for the game. I felt like I was 13 again.

I'll set the maximum credits to 40, and then start off with 15 credits with the goal to try to run the credits up to 40 without getting to 0. I'll leave the Extra Ball and Free Game settings at factory defaults to be fair, set the first free game score to a setting just above what I usually average, and the other two free game scores to scores I don't achieve that often.

#2131 1 year ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Just to be clear, you can have free play enabled on the Alltek, and still set scoring thresholds to trigger the knocker. This is what I do.
I have thresholds at 1 Million, 2 Million and 3 Million, and set Specials to be a replay. This gives me the nice knocker feedback for doing well, but makes it so that there are always credits available (especially if my kids have friends over).

Gotcha - but I also like running up the number of credits based on pin play. Good to know about the knocker noise preservation, tho!

3 weeks later
#2157 1 year ago
Quoted from srose007:

Hi All,
Just bought a 1981 EBD and it has a weird issue with the playfield lamps/1-7 and 8-15 ball (horseshoe) drop targets:
First of all, while all the targets are all standing, the 2, 5 and 6 ball lights next to the targets are out, and down at the bottom above the flippers, it shows the 2, 6 and 13 balls lit. For the second player (shooting stripes), it shows the 9, 10, 13 and 15 balls out and down below, the 13 ball is lit.
When the horseshoe drop targets are hit, it does the following:
Target Top, Bottom
------- ---- --------
1 Stays lit, 9 lights up
2 Out already, 2 goes out (instead of lighting up)
3 Properly goes out, 3 properly lights up
4 Properly goes out, 4 properly lights up
5 Stays lit, 1 lights up
6 Stays out, 10 lights up, 6 goes out
7 Properly goes out, 3 properly lights up
The striped balls have similar issues.
Any ideas of what may be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd prefer not to spend too much (if any) on a pinball repair specialist coming to the house.
Best to all, and start chalking!

First impression to me is a lamp matrix addressing issue. I'm assuming it's never worked for you since you just bought you know the repair/upkeep history of the machine from the previous owner? First thing I'd do is re-pin the J4 connector on the Lamp driver board (which contains the four lamp matrix addressing wires). Prior to that, you could try pulling off the connector and re-seating it, and/or while the game is running try wiggling that connector and see if the behavior changes. If it does, that's your culprit. If it doesn't, I'd still repin that (and pretty much all) connectors on the nearly 40 year old machine. Re-pinned connectors often fix many squirrely issues.

#2170 1 year ago
Quoted from srose007:

All I can say mathazar and lovef2k is that YOU GUYS ARE GENIUSES!!! I pulled off a couple of the connectors on the two lamp boards, simply plugged them back in, and VOILA, EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN!!! Well, at least with the mapping of the horseshoe drop targets and the corresponding billiard ball lights. AMAZING! You didn't just make my day, you made my month!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you. And thank you to Pinside as well.
OK, now that you're my go-to techs, I have a follow-up question for you:
A couple of the playfield lamps are still out and they remain out during the self-test. I would presume that they are simply bad sockets since I've tried replacing the bulbs multiple times and nothing happens. Should I clean the pins on the connectors that go into the lamp boards or leave well enough alone there? And if I need to have someone replace the sockets, do you have a recommended seller for those?
Take care,

Glad to hear you're making progress! There's nothing quite as satisfying as getting something that's not working on your pin working again with your own two hands.

For the lamps that are out, it could be any number of things (including the socket you mention):

1 - Bad bulb. I think you've eliminated this possibility.
2 - Bad socket. 35+ year old sockets indeed can give you fits and they're not very expensive. You can source them at Pinball Life as well as Marco's and most other online pinball parts suppliers. Before pinning your hopes on that solution, tho, I'd recommend a test if you've got any experience with a soldering iron. Swap a non-working lamp socket with a known working one under the playfield. If the original lamp location continues to not light and the swapped lamp location does light, the problem is not with the socket and you need to focus elsewhere. If the not-lighting socket continues to not light in its new location (and the swapped socket lights in the original location), you indeed have a bad socket and can be confident in buying a new one (they're only a few bucks each).
3 - Broken or corroded wires. This issue is VERY common on these 35+ years old machines as you've experienced by playing with connector insertions and getting some things to magically work again. I'd still recommend re-pinning all of the connectors.
4 - Bad SCRs (transistors) on the Lamp Driver Board. This is another common failure. There are procedures for determining which SCRs are bad if you have the ability to desolder the old bad ones off of the PCB and solder in new ones (SCRs are a couple bucks each). Alternatively, you can buy a new replacement Lamp Module Board from Alltek for about $120 or a refurbished original Bally for around $75.

There's another good troubleshooting step you can take for #3 and #4....for about $50, you can get a Lamp tester PCB from Pinitech. With this lamp board tester, you remove the cables from the lamp board and plug the test board directly into it. When you do the Lamp test from the coin door on the pinball, it will flash LEDs on the test board instead of the playfield. If any of the LEDs on the test board are stuck on or stuck off, the board will tell you exactly which SCR transistor is responsible for that lamp and you know what needs to be changed. You'd also know that the wiring isn't playing a part in the failure. Conversely, if all the test LEDs on the Lamp tester board are working with no problems, you've then confirmed that you've got wiring (connector) issues with the wire harness.

Isn't this fun?

Welcome to the hobby!

#2173 1 year ago
Quoted from srose007:

Well, I'm not the handiest guy around but willing to try soldering the sockets on and off it you think I won't ruin anything. Do I need a heat-sink or anything like that to make sure I don't screw things up? I don't remember too much from high school electric class, but remember the heat sink thing!
Thanks mathazar

Honestly, I can't tell you if you'd anything or not without knowing your skills. You can get some basic pinball soldering tips here....don't forget to be careful and not get solder blobs dropping into/onto other parts of the playfield underside:

1 week later
#2185 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Every early Bally playfield has those dimples next to the flipper tips. They are there to help you align the flipper bats. Do not fill them in..
See here:

My EBD (1984 version) doesn't have those dimples. Neither does my Mata Hari (1977).

#2188 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Umm, did you forget that you installed a hardtop on your Mata Hari:
And the photo of the sanded playfield before the hardtop install shows the dimples:
Lets see some clear pictures of your EBD.

quench - that's just too funny....great memory you have. When I checked for dimples on the Mata Hari, I indeed went straight to the one that I put the new hardtop in! And I just checked my other Mata Hari project....there are indeed little dimples there as well.

I double checked the dimbles. Here are some photos (Mata Hari w/ hardtop, Mata Hari no hardtop, and the 1984 EBD).

Flipper Dimple 01 (resized).jpgFlipper Dimple 03 (resized).jpgFlipper Dimple 02 (resized).jpg
#2191 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

You might be right on that one. However the left flipper dimple position is covered by the flipper rubber in that picture. Care to take another picture with you holding both flipper bats up?

Bats up....

Flipper Dimple 04.jpg
#2193 1 year ago
Quoted from Quench:

Thanks. Looks like yours were weakly punched but the dimples are there: Have a look at your third left side flipper for a dimple too.
[quoted image]
If you look real close (zoom in), these two pics in the gallery have them in the same position:

Nice eye, quench. I'll have to have a closer look at the third flipper when I'm home later tonight. Learn something new everyday here on pinside!

#2195 1 year ago
Quoted from AgentX:

Alright, pin another bit of buggery goin on with my EBD. See linked video.
All displays flicker and spasm whenever the game is in Game Over/Attract mode, but clear up almost completely after a game has been started. Any thoughts or suggestions? My initial thought is a gunky connector somewhere? Maybe once the game starts, more voltage pushes through, causing the problem to clear up?
Thanks in advance!

Couple thoughts:
- If this were affecting only 1 or 2 displays, I'd say the problem was with the displays themselves and would be candidates to have the header pins reflowed with new solder. Still...if these are the original displays and that's never been done, that would be a good thing to do for all 5 displays anyway. And eliminate that as the potential culprit.

- Since this is happening on all 5 displays, my inclination is to look for something common between them and that would be the HV circuit on the SDB. If the SDB is original and has never had rework done on it, that means you've got 38 year old capacitors that had a maximum lifetime expectancy of about 15 years. Very common problem. I'd recommend having your SDB re-capped. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, lots of online places sell very affordable kits that come with all the caps, resistors, and parts you need.

#2197 1 year ago
Quoted from AgentX:

And, by SDB, are you saying Solenoid Driver Board?

Yes - exactly.

2 weeks later
#2205 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Member of the club, at least for now — not because I don’t love the game, but because I’m hoping for one that’s a bit nicer.
My backglass is bubbling and the PF has not-so-great touchups under old mylar. Probably a new PF or hardtop candidate if I end up keeping long-term. Great game![quoted image][quoted image]

Nice lineup.....

#2208 1 year ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Hey guys,
New owner of a project EBD and so far I'm enjoying getting it working. When I picked it up it was dead. Since then I've rebuilt the rectifier board and now we have some life. I can start a game but I'm having a few issues detailed the the following video.

1. Displays are fading/scrolling from left to right
2. Very few sounds (Should I recap or replace the squawk and talk board?)
3. Random lights aren't working. I'm struggling with the schematic to understand if it is something on the board or a connector issue.
I think that is it for now. If I need to start a new thread for all of this I'd be happy to. Thanks!

Congrats on joining the club! After 40+ years of playing and owning several machines, including NIB Sterns, EBD is still my favorite.

*Displays are fading/scrolling from left to right*
I'd start with power as all displays are exhibiting similar behavior. You rebuilt the rectifier board and the pin comes up and basically runs now, so that's good. Have you checked the HV test points on the rectifier to make sure it's at the expected voltages? If so, next move is to check the HV test points on the SDB board. Hard to tell from the video, but the caps on the SDB *look* original....if that's the case, they're 20+ years beyond their expected lifespan and should be replaced. Another note: while likely not the source of the fading/scrolling, it would be good practice (and quick & easy) to reflow the solder on all of the header pins of each display.

*Very few sounds (Should I recap or replace the squawk and talk board?)*
Yes to the re-cap (see above regarding the caps on the SDB).

*Random lights aren't working. I'm struggling with the schematic to understand if it is something on the board or a connector issue.*
First thing that should be done on a 38 year old pin - *re-pin all connectors for all of the boards*. Can't emphasize that enough. I've had many, many weird/random issues on project pins go away by putting on new connectors. It's tedious and it takes a long time, but you'll spend more time investigating each odd symptom. Start with a new, clean baseline with known good connection points, and then start drilling down into the individual problems if they still remain after re-pinning.

#2238 1 year ago
Quoted from Barkz:

Fuse blew - what is BR1?

Bridge Rectifier. The diodes near F3 look pretty crusty, too. I'd recommend a rebuild kit for that AS-2518-54 power supply. Pick up a kit from Big Daddy:

#2242 1 year ago
Quoted from Barkz:

Thanks, Ordered. Now the jumper wire I got with the alltek does not reach all the way across the back board to reach under the player 2 score reel. I’m assuming pic 1 shows the correct line I need to attach to. So can I attach down here in pic 2 so I don’t blow anything the next go around?

You don't need to go that far with the TP13 wire from the Alltek. You just need to get to a lamp control line and there's one much closer to the Alltek board. Here's a picture of mine (blue wire) - I'm alligator clipping to the control lamp wire under the D-E-L-U-X-E lights. The wire is long - I used it to test/confirm everything was working right when I put in the Alltek board last year, and I haven't gotten around to embedding it in the wire harness yet.

And before anyone admonishes me for the original battery on my EBD MPU, I bought a few Weebly NVRAM chips last month and will be updating it this weekend or next!
Alltek TP13 Wire.jpg

#2248 1 year ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Are EBD 81 replacement wiring harnesses available? Specifically display harness. This harness is chewed up and covered with electrical tape in the large bundle. Looks like it has been pinched in back box door over time. Can go through and patch am sure but would rather replace. Turned on and displays are missing digits etc. moving the harness in the giant electrical tape bundle fixes this.

The good news is that the EBD display wiring harness is shared between a bunch of other early Bally SS titles (18? 25?) so there could be lots of opportunities to find a replacement. The bad news is that I've never seen anyone selling just a harness, and I don't know of any repro's out there (I've seen repro's for the Bally coin door harness, but not the playfield or backbox harnesses). You may have to find a comparable early Bally SS title that someone is willing to part out or you buy a basket case on the cheap to part out yourself.

2 months later
#2291 1 year ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

Been working on the EBD I picked up this month for a few weeks now and down to a few issues that I am seeking guidance on. I just got a brand new replacement MPU, so I'm assuming (hoping) it is not an MPU problem with either issue:
(1) Once in a while (although happening more frequently lately), the voice will announce that the one ball has been made even though the target has not been hit and remains up. It turns the one target light off and lights up the one ball in the rack even though the target is still up. On the next ball, when the targets are reset, the game will drop the one ball as if it was made on the previous ball. This can happen at what seems like a random point in game play from as soon as the moment one the ball is kicked into the plunger lane or at various other points when the ball is in play. So, the game has some issue that makes it think that the one ball target was made when it was not. Is this likely an issue with the switch for the one ball target that needs adjusting (e.g. closing due to being too close together), a connector/wiring issue or something else? I checked using the test menu and the one ball switch does not show up as being closed, but it is possible it is open, but is it possible the contacts are close enough that it closes randomly due to ball action that shakes the playfield enough to close the open switch temporarily and signal a shot made to the MPU?
(2) When I make either the three ball or the four ball, it will turn off the correct corresponding light for that ball target (either 3 or 4 target made) and leave the other target light lit as it should, but will light up both the three and four ball in the rack. It does not count the ball that was not made in the bonus count, so the game recognizes the other ball target was not made. I assume this is most likely a wiring issue under the playfield or in the connector that is causing both to light when only one should.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
- Brian

If this EBD is new to you and you don't know the history of previous repairs, I'd highly recommend to repin all connectors as a first step measure. It's tedious work for sure, but I can't tell you how many times repinning connectors has resolved strange behaviors in lights, switches, and power. Sometimes the pins at the end of the wires, inside the connectors, are corroded or even broken/bent after 40 years of action. It's the first thing I do when I get a new old SS machine.

If you want to take a more targeted approach (no pun intended), you could look up in the schematic the wires and pins for the misbehaving ones and see if you can force the misbehavior by wiggling those wires in the connector (to the corresponds boards in the backbox) and/or gently pound the playfield with your fist near the suspect targets.

#2299 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I have my Eight Ball Deluxe thresholds set to 600,000 and 1,100,000 for the first 2 levels. The 600,000 correctly adds a 1 free credit but the 1,100,000 doesn’t do anything. Alltek MPU board. Does something need to be cleared out here? Also what’s the most common 3rd threshold level setting? Thanks

My EBD, MH, and BJ all have their original Bally MPUs but I did use a spare Alltek MPU in all three machines while fixing the original Bally boards. I always got in the habit of doing the Memory Clear Function on the the Alltek whenever I moved the MPU from machine to machine and never had any trouble with the high score thresholds issuing credits when hit.

FWIW, when I have my EBD set for 5 balls I use 1,000,000/1,750,000/2,500,000 and for 3 balls I use 700,000/1,200,000/1,700,000.

#2301 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

I hit the clear button to clear just the 1,100,000 setting then resetting it to the same value. It did not work. I did not do an entire memory clear. I’ll try that next.
Will I lose all my bookkeeping settings? If so I’ll make a list before I try it.

Yes, pretty sure all the bookkeeping settings will get reset.....

#2305 1 year ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Yes but I just found the issue. Dip switch 29 was off. If it’s off, only 1 credit per game will be added. I turned switch 29 to on so ALL credits will be added. There’s so many settings and switches this was an easy one to miss.

Woohoo! I was just reading the switch charts in the manual to see if I could find it....glad you got it.

1 week later
#2323 1 year ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Probably a dumb question but what is the difference as far as gameplay goes between the original eight ball deluxe and the other two that followed? I just picked up the 1981 version and the guy had two balls of the playfield of course game doesn't work so I'll be fixing it. Is this game a multiball game?

No gameplay difference between the three versions. I also believe the playfield is the same between all three versions but on the '81, there are individual lamp sockets whereas on the '84 the lamps sockets are on PCBs. The LE had both I think. Backglass on the '84 is slightly smaller than the '81 and on hinged door.

#2327 1 year ago
Quoted from DigitalJB:

Question 1: Do other 8BD owners like the switch over to LED'S?
Question 2: What has been the life of the newer boards so far? Any major Issues?
Question 3: Since I am not sure if the boards were original that came with it do they hold any value? Should I have them redone for originality reasons
Question 4:Does anyone have a copy of the original owners manual I could purchase, get a copy of somehow?

Welcome! EBD is by far my favorite'll never leave my gameroom.

I did switch to LEDs. I didn't go super bright and left it tasteful. I really like the look of the inserts with the LEDS.

I have an Alltek lamp board in mine and a Rottendog rectifier far so good after 1.5 years. I used an Alltek MPU in it for the first few months while I repaired the original MPU, then put the original MPU back in once it was working. I now use the Alltek in my other Bally pins when I'm troubleshooting stuff. The original boards do hold value - do a search on eBay and you can see how much working and non-working ones sell for (provided there is no battery corrosion damage).

You can get the owner's manual here (PDF):

Have fun!

1 week later
#2344 1 year ago
Quoted from iluvak9:

I turned the game off and back on again, and found the game was not able to restart and it appears that the MPU flash test only gets through four or five flashes before it stops and the game freezes in the same state as it was in when it went crazy during the lamp diagnostic test.

Is it the 4th or 5th flash? I'm not familiar with the Weebly MPU, but for the original Bally 2518 (from

Fourth Flash:
The Fakers Guide: no fourth flash means U10 (6821 PIA) is bad.

Techno Guide: The U9 CPU chip now tests the first 6821 PIA chip. There are two of these chips on the MPU board, which are identical and interchangable. The test for both is the same.

To determine if a PIA chip is good, the U9 CPU does the following:

- The CPU accesses, by means of input RS0, RS1, CS0, CS1 and CS2 each of the two full byte registers used to store the port initialization information. If does this, one register at a time. After it completes the first register, it repeats for the second. It goes through 256 tests similar to that used to check each byte in U7 (second flash). If each time the CPU writes a word into the register, it can read the same word back, it continues to test until completion.
- The CPU accesses, by means of input RS0, RS1, CS0, CS1 and CS2, each of two full byte registers used as data output registers when PA0 to PA7 and PB0 to PB7 are used as outputs. It does the same type of test on each register as described just above. Again if no faults are found, the test is continued until completion.
- The CPU then accesses, by means of input RS0, RS1, CS0, CS1 and CS2, the two ports CA2 and CB2. The port is initialized as an output. The port is then written into to see if it can store a "1" and then a "0".
- A total of 4 x 256 + 4 (=1028) test steps are required to test the PIA chip. However, there are internal buffer amplifiers used with the PB0 to PB7 output registers and CB2 port register which can not be tested by the CPU. Access is only to the register; if the buffer is open, it does not interfere with the registers ability to be written into and read from by the CPU. It is this uncertainity that reduces the accuracy of these test to 99.5%.

Fifth Flash:
The Fakers Guide: no fifth flash means U11 (6821 PIA) is bad.

Techno Guide: Same test is performed on U11 as was performed on U10. See above.

2 months later
#2401 9 months ago

That backglass on Marco's looks like the '81 version and your machine is the '81 version. One good indicator of that is the silver lift bar on the bottom of your installed backglass in your pix....1981 models lift out. The '84 EBD door swings open with the backglass installed and it slides out once the door is open (nice design, IMO, and convenient for quick backbox maintenance).

The dimensions of the 1984 EBD backglass are different and thus much harder to find. I also sent the dimensions of my '84 backglass to CPR last year to aid in their reproduction efforts. Fortunately I don't need original is about a 9 out of 10.

1 week later
#2420 9 months ago

Anxious to hear the first batch of installation reports and comments on fit/alignment, difficulties encountered (if any), workarounds implemented (if any), etc!

I'm almost done with my Black Jack project and will be purchasing an EBD hardtop after the holidays. Will probably get to the EBD install around February.

#2425 9 months ago
Quoted from LargemouthAss:

No idea what to try next. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Does the EBD go into Self Test ok and pass the solenoid and switch tests? Is this a problem that just started after working for some time or is this a newly install Alltek board?

2 weeks later
#2447 8 months ago
Quoted from Thegeekyhusband:

Yes i did. Would there be a malfunction on the board that would cause the board not to be reading changes to settings?

A couple of times over the last two years, my Alltek would sometimes not recognize a switch setting change. Doing the "MEMORY CLEAR" function (check your Alltek manual) would fix that for me. Some transient bit I suspect.

2 weeks later
#2470 8 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Wordy post, sorry in advance!
My friend talked me out of selling my EBD (it was slated to be my next hardtop, and given the nightmare my high speed has been, I'm just not feeling it now) because he volunteered to do all the work on it without completely gouging my eyes out from a cost perspective (eg $300-400). It's got a decent cab, but it's not perfect. It doesn't need a full on repaint, but a light touch on 'refreshing' it could do wonders. Anyway, I'm not planning on doing anything with that, at least right now.
So, scenario time:
I've got $1015 in it as it sits (machine+hardtop cost) so clearly I've got some leeway in bringing it back. It has the following issues:
-backglass is delaminating in BIG sections; thinking this is likely past any sort of reasonable repair. The Shay backglass is the best I've seen and will run me about $375.
-plastics are junk and need replaced. CPR set is $150, Shay is $170. No idea which is 'better' as Shay doesn't have any pictures
-already has an Alltek board but the other boards are stock and likely haven't ever been worked on. Probably need to send those out to my board guy to check out/repair any issues. I want to LED anyway so I assume the lamp driver board will need attention.
-Everyone knows the '81 lamp sockets are heinous, so those will be replaced also. I was planning on going with bayonet, unless there's some reason not to?
-several wiring hacks soldered directly on to the boards to undo/repin with new connectors etc
-Legs are gross painted black; I could have my powdercoat guy make them beautiful.. Should I? Anything else I should have him do while it's apart? Rails, lockbar, etc?
-I'm sure there will be various parts that need ordered to replace worn or non working components. Figuring $100-200 here.
So with the backglass, plastics, misc parts, and labor costs I'll be around $2000-2200, and more if I do board work, powdercoating, etc. I definitely don't mind being invested in this game for "what it's worth" but I always worry about going overboard and being way upside down. Say this were to stretch out to $2500 or so but at the end of it I had a hardtopped '81 EBD with new plastics and glass plus nice powdercoated accents, fully LED with sockets swapped and fixed/reworked boards... $2500 isn't bad at all, right? I mean, it's certainly 'up there' by pinside historical numbers but iirc none have been recorded sold with hardtops yet.
Thanks for reading my ridiculously long post

It all depends on if you like the machine and intend to hang on to it and enjoy it or do you want to flip it down the road and recoup costs. IMO, $2500 is not a bad investment at all for a decent EBD if you like the machine and it's a long-term keeper.

I've got an '84 EBD that I don't ever intend on selling. It's my favorite game from my youth and still is today. I've got just under $3K invested in mine and that's before putting in a hardtop, and I'm perfectly fine with that. New paint, repaired cabinet, original backglass in primo condition, new plastics, sling and flipper rebuilds, Alltek lamp board, tasteful LEDs, all new drop targets, reconditioned PCBs, rebuilt pops, reconditioned displays, and it plays fast, nice, and smooth. The playfield is actually pretty good except for cupped inserts and wear around the scoop, targets, and in the inlanes. The wear in the inlanes is bothersome as balls held by the flippers actually get stuck in place when you drop the flipper. I'm using a playfield protector now to eliminate that and the cupped inserts, but I plan on putting a hard top in soon and I won't even bat an eye at the price (I did a Mata Hari hard top last year and love it).

Bottom line: Spend, play, and enjoy.

#2475 8 months ago gold standard to compare our EBD's to. $7500 but I don't think I've ever seen a nicer one:

1 week later
#2515 7 months ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Anybody know what this diode is for? This does not look factory. It’s 2 different color wires. I never really noticed it before. There was a piece of tape over it but it fell off.

I believe that's for the tilt ball mechanism. That diode is normally part of a leaf switch attached to the end of the tilt ball trough.

IMG_7683 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2605 6 months ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Picked up a partially parted out pf May restore someday

Perfect candidate for a hardtop!

1 week later
#2648 6 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Thanks for the reply, vec-tor, but i did not make myself clear. I meant the two screws for each pop bumper that are installed into the top of the bumper body that secure them into the lower bumper housing under the playfield.

You mean these guys?

#2652 6 months ago

I haven't done it myself (yet) but the method I keep seeing the most is softening the plastic with a heat gun to the point where you can remove/insert the bell shaped standoff. I want to see a video of that process before I try it, but haven't found one.

#2711 6 months ago

I think you put the flippers on the wrong side of the playfield.


#2712 6 months ago

In all seriousness, that looks fantastic. I know it must've taken you hours (and hours and hours) and you can tell it's a labor of love!

#2766 5 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

My '81 EBD wasn't running before my pf swap, now the swap is done and I'm trying to get it back up and running.
When the ball rolls over the left or right inlane, it scores the points and the tone sounds but the right upper pop bumper fires when the right inlane is hit and the let upper pop bumper fires when the left inlane is hit. Bad or broken diode problem?

Sounds maybe more like a coil addressing problem (wires). Run the sequential solenoid test and note the Solenoid Number displayed vs. which one actually fires. If the incorrect coil fire (or don't fire) consistently, something's not wired correctly or the wire is loose/broken. I'd suspect the latter if you haven't repinned any connectors.

#2787 5 months ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

One of the side effects of correcting the EOS wiring on my machine seems to be more random pop bumper firings with flipper activity. I know this is a common Bally issue because of how they wired their machines. My Mata Hari had the same issue. I may try adding caps to the cabinet flipper switches. That seemed to help quiet down Mata Hari quite a bit.

Following...I have this same problem on my EBD every once in a while....perhaps once or twice in a game every few games, I get a random pop fire when activating a flipper.

#2793 5 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

The DT Banks in this game take time to clean up n rebuild.

Wow...that looks sweet. I know what a pain that is!

#2798 5 months ago
Quoted from DocGar:

At this point, I'm thinking that this EBD swap will be my one and only (maybe everybody says this?). That said, I don't really want to invest in a compressor + air stapler. Anybody have experience/can recommend a lesser expensive manual stapler? Upholstery stapler perhaps? Any thoughts appreciated..

I've been perfectly happy with my manual Arrow staple gun (about $25) but granted I've not done an entire playfield swap with it. My usage so far has just been with securing down individual replaced wire and ground braids on the playfield and in the cabinet. Perhaps my tune would change if I find myself doing an entire playfield swap. It's hard enough for me as it is to do a hard top install, so I don't see that happening.

#2815 5 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

Even if you only do one pf swap the Unicatch is worth the purchase. Makes laying down the braid a simple task. Also, if you're going to add/redo all the "Tech" sheets (pic below) in the back box the Unicatch is great for this as well.

mesz - your backbox restoration is BEAUTIFUL and I love the Bally logo you put above the MPU. Makes me wish I took the time to repaint the back of my door as well (I repainted only the front). When I did my backbox cards, I went with an off-white to give it an aged look, albeit cleaner and crisper than the torn, ratty originals in mine.

IMG_7591 (resized).jpg
3 weeks later
#2947 4 months ago
Quoted from Charger68:

First post here, just picked up an ebd and after a bumpy ride home everything works except the trough outhole kicker is extremely weak, the ball barely moves. Switch is gapped correctly and no sign of corrosion. Tried reseating connector to no avail. Could this be a diode issue or should i be looking closer at the sdb
Thanks in advance, Chris

Congrats on joining the EBD club! It's my favorite machine from my youth and I'll be installing a nice, new hardtop on mine later this month.

If the outhole kicker is firing and just weak, a few things to check:

- Make sure the plunger on the coil moves freely and doesn't bind. A new coil sleeve and/or new plunger assembly may help if there's binding or slop in the linkage.
- Make sure the coil itself is the correct one (AT-26-1200)
- Make sure the kicker assembly is fully secured to the playfield and that there is no slop. Any assembly movement as a result of the coil firing will weaken the ball moving out.
- Make sure you're getting the correct voltage at the kicker coil.

One problem that I ran into on my EBD regarding week kickouts to the shooter lane:

- the piece of nylon on the post (left arrow) was really, really loose. As such, the kicker arm had slop/play and the ball would sometimes mis-hit. I took the nylon off, wrapped some electrical tape around the post, and put the nylon piece back on nice and tight.

- the ball would rest to the left of the trough, toward the playfield, and the kicker arm would not be "square" with the ball (and again would cause mis-hits on occasion). Resolved that by bending the rollover wire for the switch, under the ball, so that the ball no longer "leaned" toward the playfield. Right arrow shows it sitting squarely after bending the rollover wire straight.

Kicker (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3038 4 months ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Great Plains is out of the 12 conductor molex connector I need. Anybody found an alternate supplier (preferably one that specifically caters to the needs of pinheads) ??

If you're looking for .156 Pinball Life has lots in stock, include 12 pin.

#3045 4 months ago

If anyone wants to follow a hardtop install and interior cabinet resto on my 1984 Classic EBD, I started a new thread here:

#3054 4 months ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Having some issues after my playfield swap. Initially, I wasn't getting controlled playfield lamps or solenoids. I found a loose wire in J3 on the SDB. Fixed that and then accidentally put the connector on incorrectly. It had been replaced in the past and it was in 2 pieces, not a full 25 pin housing. I misaligned the lower portion and pins 12 and 13 kinda melted. Fixed that and it seemed to work fine. Got solenoids and insert lights back. Then I installed the Bally LED flicker eliminator boards from Comet and since then they don't work. Without the flicker boards, I get no controlled lamps on the playfield and the light that belongs to the SEB doesn't light either (it is incandescent). With the anti flicker boards installed a few lamps are always lit but they still don't function properly. I'm not sure what happened or what I may have done wrong. Verified the lamp bus wire is making continuity from the rectifier all the way to the shoot again light. Any tips on where to start?

It may be a longshot in your case, but I've had some quality control issues on the Bally anti-flicker boards myself. Nothing I couldn't fix, but it took time to figure out the problems were with the anti-flicker boards themselves vs. issues with my lamp board/wiring.

On one set of boards, I had one that had incomplete solder on one of the header pins (picture below). That was causing one of my control lamps to never light.

On another set of boards, I had another incomplete solder example on two of the header pins resulting in two control lamps never lighting.

Using a third set of boards one time, and I had a series of control lamps continue to flicker as if the anti-flicker boards weren't installed. Some lights worked great, but a group didn't. Traced that group of lights....they all went back to anti-flicker board #3, the last in the chain for power. The jumper wire provided with the anti-flicker PCBs had a busted pin in the 2-pin connector. Re-crimped on a new pin, worked like a champ.

In hindsight now that I'm thinking about it, I've bought and used three different sets of the Bally anti-flicker kits and all three had issues that I had to rework! Still a good, inexpensive product that I'd use again, despite the quality issues I've encountered.

IMG_7617 (resized).jpg
#3064 4 months ago

I'm in the re-assembly phase after installing a hardtop and I'm running into a few things that don't seem right on my EBD. Here's game has this stud at this location. It seems like an odd placement for a stud....shouldn't this be another blue plastic post? What do you guys have at this location?

IMG_8266a (resized).jpg
#3065 4 months ago

Here's another original playfield had a hole where the red X is and this shorter (1.5") ball guide wire installed in it behind the upper left flipper. According to the EBD manual, that ball guide wire is part #M-121-93 and is 2.5" long (and would go in the holes where the red arrows are).

Anyone know where I can find the proper ball guide wire part #M-121-93? I can't find it by that part number, and looking at wire form after wire form at Marcos and other places is like looking for a needle in a haystack!

IMG_8267a (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#3078 3 months ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Replacing all 3 pop bumper bodies (yellowed, cracked w/ missing clips). Obviously have to transfer the bulb + contacts. They seem pretty well wedged in. What's the approach on these? Just firm pressure from the contacts side in?

Yes - mine were pretty tight as well when I replaced the bodies but they do pop out with enough pressure.

1 month later
#3220 56 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Any tips on removing the large drop target bank assembly? The DELUXE targets switches need adjusting and I want to replace the old capacitors. I figured it would be much easier with the assembly removed.

It's actually one of the easiest assemblies to remove, at least on mine. My only experience is on the 1984 Classic version....I've never worked on the 1981 original version so I'm not sure if there are any differences. But on the 1984, one molex connector takes care of all the solenoid connections and ~6 screws will allow the assembly to be pulled out. If you don't want to desolder/resolder the 7 leaf switches, you could just unscrew them from the assembly (two screws each) and leave them dangling from the playfield while you work on the assembly on your bench.

#3222 56 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Yeah I don’t really want to desolder 7 switches but I do want to change out those caps. I guess I would have to do those while they are dangling? How about the 2 coils? 1 on each end. Easier to desolder them or unscrew them and leave them dangling?

I checked my disassembly photos from my hardtop install and I misspoke....but it's better for you! The switches I removed (and left dangling) were from the in-line Bank Shot X targets, not the 7 target assembly.

On the 7 target assembly, the two coils on either end of the assembly AND all of the target switches are part of that one harness, all to a single molex, so no desoldering had to happen for anything to remove it. Just disconnect the molex, undo the screws holding the assembly to the bottom of the playfield, and it'll come right off.

Here's my 7-target assembly on my bench. Everything was scoring just fine, so I left the original caps on the switches and only put in new drop targets (the yellow targets cleaned up nice enough that I didn't bother replacing them, either).

IMG_8772 (resized).jpgIMG_8773 (resized).jpg
#3226 56 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Ok I see now that you have a larger connector and I guess they are wired though it. Is that only on later EBD? 81 version only has a 9 pos connector for the memory coils.

I don't know...that's why I said in my original post that it looks pretty clean and easy on my 1984, but I don't have any maintenance experience on the original 1981 and I'm not sure if the drop target assembly is the same wrt the wiring harness. I imagine it could/would be different given the 1984 also has PCBs for groups of control lights, so maybe there have been other maintenance-friendly improvements in that later edition of the game.

#3234 55 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

Hello all,
The ball kicker from my EBD was hacked at some point, using a spring and a long wood screw which is going through the playfield
You will note also that the coil is a Gottlieb...
Why do you think such hack would be done ?
1/ Should I go ahead and get rid of this screw/spring and replace it with a spring around the plunger? The part catalog calls for this spring:
2/ Could someone share a picture of a correct ball kicker set up? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Ya, that looks kinda hinky. The only reason I could think of for a setup like that is if an operater was on location, did not have the correct plunger spring to fix an issue, and jury rigged any spring he could find in his tool box to keep the machine running and making money.

Here's my setup (pre-tear down/cleaning/hardtop install).
IMG_5871 (resized).jpg

#3241 52 days ago

I've never done this myself, but since the original wedge base sockets are pretty flush with the top of the playfield surface, you'd probably want the top of the bayonet socket edge as close to the underside mounting bracket as possible to get that same flushness or maybe even slightly below the surface. Bally E120-81 looks pretty close to do that. What are there...40 something GI sockets? Maybe buy a few samples and try them out?

#3266 49 days ago
Quoted from robx46:

Does anyone know if it is possibly to set all the specials to novelty (score 50k) but leave the left orbit extra ball shot to award an extra ball? In the manual it looks like you are forced to set both extra ball & special to replay, x-ball, or novelty. I don't think you can single out just the extra ball? Because replay is pointless at home, & extra ball for every special is just too much.

Ya, I don't think that's possible with the original Bally code. While replay is kinda pointless at home, I leave mine on for several reasons (all nostalgic):

- I love the knocker sound. Sends me back immediately to the early 80's as a teenager in the arcade. Getting a three-knocker for making D-E-L-U-X-E or getting the high score is especially satisfying.

- I don't like the novelty scoring or the multitude of extra balls (just the left orbit) because the scoring gets high enough for me that I roll it past 9,999,990. I have mine set to 5 balls, just like the one I played at the arcade so the scores then and now are "consistent" for me. Plus my family prefers 5-ball (I begrudgingly put our BKSOR and STPRO on 5-ball via family democratic vote). They let me keep the original Black Knight and STTNG on 3-ball because they don't play those two very much (and when I played them in the arcades in my youth, those were always set to 3-ball).

- I like to play a "game within a game". I'll start off with 5 credits and try to run it up to the max 40 credits before losing them all down to 0 credits. It makes for a fun challenge for me, I get to hear my knocker, and my family is happy with 5 balls per game. The only annoying thing is running up the credits to 20-something and after my family plays, it's back down to 10 credits and I've got to build it up again.

#3272 45 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Does anyone have pictures/part numbers/whatever handy on just how the heck the pop area is assembled? I have absolutely no idea if I ordered all the necessary parts and I'm pretty confused on how those giant holes are covered. I was going to try adapting a different set to my game but without understanding how it assembles I'm kind of up a creek on both sides. The manual wasn't particularly helpful..

This may help.

EBD Pop Bumper Assembly (resized).jpg
#3274 45 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Did I somehow miss this in the manual?!

The user manual is kinda bare with regards to parts info....there are specific Bally part manuals available online:

#3288 42 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Starting the topside teardown here. I imagine just about every apron takes some wear over time. What are you guys dong with this? Leave it be, paint, selectively powder-coat ?

Following....I have an '84 as well (black apron) and it's seen better days. After re-painting the cabinet and putting in a hardtop, the rough looking apron stands out a bit. Haven't seen any decals for the '84 ( the '81, yes).

#3289 41 days ago

I recently refurbished my '84 EBD - repaint with some custom color choices for the interior cab, hardtop, new plastics/posts, and all metal bits tumbled and polished. Just for fun, I put in a Comet flex RGB LED under the clear rollover insert for the orbit lane. Slow color fade amber-green-blue-yellow-purple-white-red. I thought it would be an interesting change of pace and easily undone. The playfield hole for the rollover insert is tight enough that I can play games with it just sitting in there without having to epoxy. I think I'll leave this in for a while and if I don't like it, I'll just pop it out and put the original amber one back in.

What do you guys think?

2 weeks later
#3333 25 days ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Also little confused on what"81 EBD" is? Was is a different version / special model?

There are 3 different editions - you can look up the differences in the IPDB:

1981 - Original Release
1982 - Limited Edition
1984 - Classic Release

I've got the '84 Classic, so I like the Black cabinet in the miniature (tho the cab sideart has a different cowboy between the '81 and '84 version).

1 week later
#3349 18 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

So the question is 44s or 47s? I know the 44s are brighter and hotter but is it really an issue for home use?

I started with 47s thinking I'll be saving my plastics but ultimately went to 44s because the 47s did seem too dim to me. And the more I thought about it, the more I convinced myself that 44s are no issue for home pins aren't on 24/7 and by the time any appreciable burn marks do become noticeable I'll be dead and buried and it'll be the recipient of my estates problem.

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