(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by phillyfan64
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)


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1 month later
1 month later
#243 4 years ago
Quoted from Windsor:

Could someone please take a pic of the instruction sheet on the back box? I need to reproduce one for my machine. Thanks in advance.
2015-03-29 22.16.42.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Do you still need this? If so I can get it to you.

#244 4 years ago

I need some pix or maybe a good wiring diagram. I'm OK with schematics but looking at this part of them just gives me a headache. (Doesn't help that I am mostly color blind. I can tell them all apart in the photos, but in real life they all look brown to me. The wife helps.)

This is the left flipper. One brown wire disconnected and all are suspect.
IMG_3644.JPG
IMG_3648.JPG

Right flipper - not much left after the previous coil exploded. Gonna need a lot of help here.
IMG_3649.JPG

Upper flipper. The only one that seemed completely wired. Still suspect.
IMG_3650.JPG

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I should have this part down by now, but I am lazy.

#246 4 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Even though you didn't take my advice and stick with the linear flipper mechanisms I'll still help you get your flippers wired correctly.

To be fair, I didn't take all of Vid's advice either and settled somewhere in between. LOL Thanks for the well explained solution. This should get me back on track. The game actually fired up and worked (except for the flippers) before I tore it down for cleaning and repair so I suspect this will get me at 100%. Thanks a ton!

11 months later
#509 3 years ago

They can be reproduced. Here's a set I did for my Space Invaders. Very inexpensive.
IMG_6878_(resized).JPG

#510 3 years ago

I have the same version EBD. Black apron with Bally-Midway on it. Gold over red. I'm working on it...

2 weeks later
#550 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

I check the CPR site every 6 months or so just to see if they will serve the clamoring masses with another EBD pf run. Am I reading this right? Are they cutting new boards?? And if they are, did I miss out (again)??!! Possible aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhh.....

It closed like 6 hours after I got on it. Phew! Sorry, dude!

3 weeks later
#601 3 years ago

I think he means the fuse under the play field...

#604 3 years ago
Quoted from kjgolf:

Does anyone know of someone who will repair the paint on the original?

http://www.greatpinball.com/services.html

Did once, might again? Not sure. He's pinsider greatwichjohn and he's currently doing new Seawitch and Stargazer P/Fs. I believe they were rehabbing EBDs as well. Email them and ask. All they can say is no.

As for your fuse, does it blow immediately upon power up? When it goes into attract mode or during gameplay? And I have to ask the brain dead question, are you using a 1 amp slo-blow?

#615 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

Anybody needing a EBD backglass in nice shape? $100 + shipping

From an '81 or '84? They are NOT the same size.

#624 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Is it bad form to flip the playfield in place and support it on a sheet of stiff ply (the cable harness at the head looks plenty long enough to accommodate this).. Easier access would make wire inspection/ signal tracing a damn sight easier ; )

I had a similar problem with my resurrection EBD project and I would pull the playfield completely out of the cab and set the lower end (carefully) on the floor. Then I could "watch it while it worked." I would start by examining the pinch points of the bottom of the playfield. Anywhere it rests on the inner cab supports make sure thee are no wires hanging out. With mine, it was the diode for the ball drain hole switch. It was touching the p/f hangar and whenever the hangar hit the lockdown device, boom. Grounded out and blew the p/f fuse.

IMG_3803_(resized).JPG

1 week later
#659 3 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

1) Tons of people ask me if it is for sale.

The minute I opened my trailer to unload for TPF this year I had offers coming at me. Simply amazing, isn't it? That machine and my SI are permanent collection machines. When I get my repro from the next CPR run I'll set it up and see how it plays. If it's better than the one I have, I'll keep it and sell the other. The one I have is a little rough, but plays like a dream.

1 month later
#752 3 years ago

Some people replace the contacts. I ain't one of them, but some people do. I'll see if I have the number somewhere handy, but it's a long shot.

#756 3 years ago

Switch diodes are 1N4148. The coil diodes are 1N4004 and the caps on all of it are .05MFD.

1 week later
#786 3 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I'm still looking for inlane plastics if anyone has a resource. Got the rest of the machine put back together, and for now I'm just using the metal guides lowered with no plastics beneath them. A little janky though.

I replaced my old ones with the ones that came in the last repro set that came out. (And had to sand the @#%$ out of them to make 'em work right.) I don't know what shape they're in, but I could take a look and throw up a pic. If you want 'em I'll give them to you for postage.

#789 3 years ago

That poor thing has seen a lot of love!

#807 3 years ago

The small ball in the channel will cause a tilt if the front of the machine is picked up far enough to roll the ball to the rear of the channel and contact the switch there. If it is stuck, it is either the wrong size or really, really rusty! I believe it is supposed to be a 3/4" ball whereas the playfield ball should be a 1 1/16" ball. I'll see if I can get a pic of the tilt plate for you.

Shawn

#809 3 years ago

If you have any Bally manual from that era you can see the schematics of it.

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#810 3 years ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

Thank you. Any idea why a pop bumper would fire instead of the tilt going off?

Is it the tilt plumb bob setting it off or the slam switch? (The large switch in the middle with the weight hanging on the end?)

1 month later
#870 3 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Can an LE be convert back to an original? I figure a backbox, lamp panel and BG are needed but is the wiring harness compatible?

I don't see why not, but the harness for the back box interconnect may be too short. Other than that it's all the same.

#872 3 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

However, as you suspected the wire harnesses DO NOT match in wire color coding.

That would be interesting. In doing research for building wire harnesses I compared the harnesses for all of the -17 games and most of the -35 games. With very few exceptions, they are all identical. Bally, like everyone else I suspect, kept it as simple as possible so that they would not need to retrain employees.

#877 3 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

drilled for ? reason

It was likely a routed machine as most were and had a lock bar across the coin door as extra protection against thieving.

1 month later
#923 3 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

Tech question...the ball eject coil is firing on the EBD, but the lever not hitting hard enough for ball to make it to the shooter lane. Pushing it manually, it doesn't seem to be binding up at all. Just like the coil not firing strong enough. I've read either the coil fires or doesn't if it's bad. What could cause this?

Make sure all the screws are tight. Ensure the entire assembly is rigid to the play field. Even though it does not appear to be binding, it never hurts to pull the nylon tube and give it and the ram a cleaning with a rag and some 97% alcohol. Also, you may want to (carefully!) check the voltage on the solenoid. Just some thoughts and good luck!

#926 3 years ago

I would start checking all of the test points on the boards for proper voltages. Also at the solenoids.

Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

- pop bumpers sometimes fire when left flipper hit and ball not near them

Common problem on Bally classic s/s games. Lots of theories, no real solutions.

1 month later
#986 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I'm curious, how did you and others deal with the metal pieces attached to the clear plastics on the repro set?

The only way I know of and what most people do is to heat it by inserting the tip of a soldering iron in until the plastic softens and then the little metal spacer can be worked out with needle nose or other type pliers. To put them in the new, place the hole over top of the spacer and heat the same way (carefully!) until you can pop the new plastic down onto it. The spacers were originally crimped onto the plastic rivet style. If anyone has a better way, please do share!

Shawn

2 weeks later
#1047 2 years ago

The quality is excellent, the fit and finish are a little off. I had to drill a hole here and there and do some shaving on the lower lane guide clear ones. But I would buy them again tomorrow. They look fantastic.

1 month later
#1137 2 years ago
Quoted from Hiram:

Thanks in advance for any help...

My $50 "back glass."

IMG_4224 (resized).JPG

#1139 2 years ago
Quoted from trimoto:

nice wish I could find a deal like that ..

Its a print that I sandwiched between two pieces of plexi. It will never break and doesn't look too awful bad.

Shawn

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3 weeks later
#1160 2 years ago

Need some help here on an EBDLE. I have a guy who is missing the plugs and wires from the rectifier at J3 and J4. I know by schematics what goes there and where it goes to on EBD and the classic versions. The LE version terminates differently and I need to know type and size of plugs, etc. Any info and pics would be great. Thanks!

#1162 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

I always thought they were all the same as far as the rectifier board goes.

True, but there are also lines to the sound card, one each to the MPU and light board and the GI wires. From the few pictures I could find it looks as though they are all plug to plug.

#1164 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

I must not understand your question then?

The connections at the rectifier is not the problem, its the other ends. The LE has a florescent instead of GI bulbs and the board arrangement is different. I have all the materials to make up the harness I am just not sure what the other ends should look like. On the original and classic versions, most of the wires go to A3J3, 3 go to A5J4, 2 to A8J1, 1 to A4J4 and several wires to the GI and controlled lamps. I make and sell entire Bally lower cab harnesses but I have never seen the inside of an LE cab.

#1167 2 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Fit just fine.

I have enough fun putting one(or two) in my Grand Caravan!

1 month later
#1230 2 years ago
Quoted from manples:

In fact these dark pins are full of a greenish grease... What is that ?

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#So.2C_Just_What_is_this_Green_Slime.3F

Nasty stuff indeed. Repin both sides as soon as you can. The slime will effect the connection which makes it run hotter and builds carbon quicker, etc, etc...

Shawn

#1239 2 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

Open question to the group-
Is it easy to install nvram on an original 1981EBD mpu? If so, anyone have a favorite brand or seller? Still have my original rechargeable battery in the board and would like to eliminate the possibility leakage.
Thanks

As easy as changing out a chip.

http://nvram.weebly.com/

#1241 2 years ago

Yup. Just snip it off, remove your U-8 chip and plug in the NVRAM. If your boards chip socket looks a little iffy and you have the equipment it is not a bad idea to replace the socket. If it looks okay, don't worry about it. And everybody here was new at some point.

Shawn
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1 week later
#1250 2 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I see this board has no U7 6810 chip. What am I missing here?

It is not in actual use at this time. It's part of a setup to finish the layout for my next product - Bally back box interconnect harnesses.

IMG_9163 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#1264 2 years ago

I'm on it as well. They will email people on the list in the order they got on. As they are sold they contact the next and so on. I watched folks on the Centaur and Fathom list wait weeks before they were notified to pay. And that was at 40 of each. EBD run was 200 I think.

#1265 2 years ago

PS I am now building and shipping EBD upper and lower harnesses. 81 and 84 editions.

#1267 2 years ago

Lower is $75, uppers 150 plus shipping. Will be in my store later this week. Comes with ground braid, new on/off, varistor, etc.

#1296 2 years ago

Well, there you go. My new play field has now seen more of Canada than I have. Awesome!

#1316 2 years ago
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:

Every game version has a different wire harness configuration.

Yes they do. I have good samples for both the '81 and '84 editions. I am finalizing the jigs and will soon be offering lower cab harnesses, back box interconnect harnesses, a mini one for the controlled and GI lamps on the score board and another for the two outputs on the aux lighting board that go to the controlled lamps on the '81 playfield harness. (On the '84 this was fully integrated into the play field harness.) Also offering Bally coin door harnesses and rectifier board wiring, ground braid, ground wire, varistors, on/off switches, etc, etc, etc. It's a "Build a Bally" shop!

Shawn

#1321 2 years ago

BAA still has their sets in stock. They're not perfect, but they are pretty damn good!

Shawn

#1342 2 years ago

Received mine today - huge thanks to Kevin and everyone at CPR for what you do. This thing is sweet. Did they ship with the white star for the rollover or did I miss something?
IMG_9360 (resized).JPG

Quoted from dothedoo:

Well then the ink has filled them in.

Found em!
IMG_9359 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#1357 2 years ago

So you want to scratch-build an EBD? While most components can be found somewhere between here, epay and all of the fine establishments online, there are a few bits that are getting increasingly hard to come by. It's a daunting task and definitely NOT for the faint of heart. Right off the top, you're going to need one of these -
IMG_9360 (resized).JPG

Got it? Great! Me too! Another essential would be one of these-
IMG_9458 (resized).JPG

And of course after building out the play field you'll need to top it off with a set of these- (Not hard to find... yet!)
IMG_9379 (resized).JPG

Oh, and if it's to be a true-to-form '84 edition you will have to find a set of these-
IMG_9455 (resized).JPG

Now assuming you have assembled a cabinet, legs, head, boards, et cetera ad infinitum, you're gonna need some wiring...

This is the back box interconnect for EBD ver '80.
EBD Upper (resized).jpg

Along with all that is this part that connects power from the rectifier J-3 and 4 to the harness and boards. This was integrated into one piece for the '84 version and is the only real difference between the two along with a couple of wire placement changes in the connector to the back box lights. This is all new construction with trifurcon connectors in molex housings with fresh off the shelf wire and fully tested in my own machine. (No IDC!!) All properly labeled and keyed for accurate placement. Full disclosure, the 23 and 28 place .100 molex connectors are becoming unobtanium so there may be a 19 with a 4 superglued together and 25 with a 3 superglued together. I have managed to purchase some 23s for now but unless you know where to get 28s, this is the way it has to be.
IMG_9433 (resized).JPG
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Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

#1358 2 years ago

For the lower end, we have this monster. The only difference between this and the '84 version is the method of connecting the harness to inlet power and the service outlet. (Flipper switches and tilt panel items are NOT included.)
lower (resized).jpg
IMG_9441 (resized).JPG
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This is how they connected the service outlet in 1980.
IMG_9440 (resized).JPG

And in 1984.
IMG_9439 (resized).JPG

Now since these are being hand built and fully tested I can only knock them out so fast. (And am already 4 orders behind.) Since Pinside Shops doesn't really have a system for sign up now and pay later I would hesitate to put them in there for fear someone will buy one and be mad that it won't show up for a couple of weeks. What I will do is build them in the order I get PMs for them and rest assured Pinside will get their 5% of each one. Pinside has generated a ton of sales for me and I am forever grateful and will gladly forward on the fee.

Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

#1359 2 years ago

Also available:

Back box wiring that powers and connects the GI and controlled lamps.
IMG_9460 (resized).JPG
IMG_9463 (resized).JPG

And this pigtail that connects the aux lamp board to the lights on the play field. This is only on the '80 version as the '84 version integrated it. If you have one that's iffy or torn up, you can replace it.
playfieldplugs (resized).jpg
IMG_9452 (resized).JPG
IMG_9451 (resized).JPG

With enough interest, I would probably do a run of play field harnesses, say a minimum of 5 people at probably $250 each.

Shawn
Third Coast Pinball

#1365 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

so where is the best place to get star roll-over inserts?

PBR

1 month later
#1452 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?

The light boards are connected to the harness via a .156 size plugs. You'll have to identify and gather the right wires to assemble the connectors. Shouldn't be too bad except for the bottom one. You're likely to be short on that one, unless the harness is run basically the same. If that is true, you shouldn't have any trouble. Good luck with it and let us know if we can help.

Shawn

#1453 2 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?

The light boards are connected to the harness via a .156 size plugs. You'll have to identify and gather the right wires to assemble the connectors. Shouldn't be too bad except for the bottom one. You're likely to be short on that one, unless the harness is run basically the same. If that is true, you shouldn't have any trouble. Good luck with it and let us know if we can help.

Shawn

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:but it appears the connectors on the end in the head are not the same as the 81.

There are some minor differences but nothing that can't be bypassed or overcome. As one example, the dedicated solenoid lines that branch off the 81 are placed opposite in the plug of the one in the 84. I made one of these to be able to test an 81 harness in my 84 machine.

Shawn

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#1455 2 years ago

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#1456 2 years ago

So, two bulbs in the pictures. The exposed one is the solenoid light, the other is the apron credit light. Both are powered by a double 18ga purple wire. The solenoid lamps other side is blue with a green chaser. The apron credit lamps other side is yellow with a white chaser.

Shawn

2 weeks later
#1484 2 years ago

Your spring looks rather.. stretched? Here's mine with target up and target down.
IMG_9606 (resized).JPG
IMG_9605 (resized).JPG

For your rollover, first check that the star portion is complete. That the knob on the bottom has not broken off? Also, check that the screws holding the switch down are tight and not loose. That would be your most likely cause. Also possible, the thing is jammed full of old wax and just needs a little cleaning.

#1485 2 years ago

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1 month later
1 month later
#1530 2 years ago

This one. On the left, right?

IMG_9954 (resized).JPG

#1532 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I see you have recut clear plastics.

Natch. This is my $300 EBD project that was highlighted in my "Cowboys VS Aliens" thread. For my next trick, I'll be doing play field harnesses for anyone who is interested.

Shawn

#1551 1 year ago

Once disassembled, it only takes minor carpentry skills and a few tools to replicate it from a new piece of plywood. It looks like yours is made of the cheap fiber board that many were made of. The one on my '84 version was completely broken at the hinge and had to be replaced. The only really hard part is prying out the old staples. And be careful with the plastic light shields on the front. They make new ones but they are pricey. Once tou have it stripped just match it to a piece of new and trace out all the holes and edges. With a drill, a cheap jigsaw and a few hours you can make a duplicate piece decently enough. Spray it white, remount all the hardware and voila!

Shawn

2 weeks later
#1561 1 year ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

Also, does anybody know a good source for the volume pot attached to the coin door? Mine has the typical high pitch bleed through at higher levels.

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=ct2154-nd

Or try running it back and forth a few times. Often its just corroded wipers.

2 months later
#1695 1 year ago

Leave the crimped part alone. Set the "bell" upright on a safe surface. Stick a hot soldering iron down the hole for about ten seconds. Grab the plastic by the sides near the hole and push it down over the bell. With a little pressure it will pop on. Let it cool. Move on with life.

Shawn

#1698 1 year ago

The trick also works

Quoted from g94:Smart idea: heat might be the key. I'll try that next time.
I'm already heating the old plastic until it becomes soft and bendable when removing the posts. The old plastic is garbage afterwards, but the posts keep their original shape.

The trick also works for removal. Soldering iron in the hole til plastic gets soft. Grab with soft pliers. Pull out. Not my tricks but they have worked for me for years.

1 week later
3 weeks later
#1798 1 year ago
Quoted from PINBALL-LUST:

The power transformer is so hacked and chopped that I can't power it on. I did once and it had a current running through it and shocked me when I touched the flipper buttons.

Pictures? Everything is fixable with a little work. There's only one way to wire it up right and obviously yours is ungrounded.

Shawn

1 week later
1 month later
#1829 1 year ago
Quoted from jmulvenon:

What all needs to be removed to successfully get this out?

Remove the three screws for the bottom plate and remove it. Then that corner will slide off of the spacer and you can pull the whole thing out.

Shawn

IMG_0500 (resized).JPG
2 weeks later
#1838 1 year ago

Some might call it a flipper pawl or a side lever assembly. It is connected to the flipper plunger/link assembly and held on by a 3/16" c-ring. Here's what each side looks like. If you just need the c-ring they can be found at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Does that help?

Shawn

IMG_0518 (resized).JPGIMG_0519 (resized).JPG
#1840 1 year ago

Went to do repair work on a Black Pyramid last week. Wanted to buy it soooo bad. I miss mine.

#1842 1 year ago

Start looking for a short in your wiring. I doubt its your boards. Somewhere a wire is getting crossed and when that lamp lights up it causes the problem by shorting all the others. My quick and easy guess.

Shawn

1 week later
#1847 1 year ago
Quoted from mikester08:

do you know where i can get a full assembly like that for the upper flipper?

http://www.pbresource.com/KT-BFLIP03.html

You can find the individual parts by scrolling down.

Shawn

#1852 1 year ago

Here ya go...

Shawn

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#1859 1 year ago

You're looking for these. Best found on old plastics. I call them Bally bell spacers. Any spacers will do for the time being.

2018-07-05 17.44.08.jpg
3 months later
#1900 1 year ago

PBR has the trim rings for $3 each and a set of three caps is $20. I've probably put several thousand games on mine since I bought them new including several trips to TPF and the Houston arcade show where it got plenty of abuse and they are still like new. Perhaps you have another issue?

Shawn

#1904 1 year ago

I bought mine from Steve at www.PBResource.com.

Shawn

5 months later
1 month later
#2190 7 months ago

I have seen them on every Bally P/F I have owned including the eight currently in house. From Night Rider to EBD.

1 month later
#2265 5 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Does anybody have a clear plastic ball guide the goes to the left of the inline drops they'd consider selling?

I have a 95% version...

20190707_214349.jpg
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