(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

6 years ago

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  • 2,739 posts
  • 286 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 hours ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 125 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1447 2 years ago

Has anyone, (or is it even possible) installed the light boards from an 84 version playfield in an 81 version?

I've got an 81 version game I've started to restore and I recently picked up a mostly populated 84 playfield with the light boards. I was originally going to use the 84 playfield harness in my 81 game but it appears the connectors on the end in the head are not the same as the 81.

#1449 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I have redone the wire harness around the top left flipper.

My concern is the length of wire. Did you have to add any in order to install the board connectors?

4 months later
#1573 2 years ago

Anyone else have this problem? It only happens on an extremely slow moving ball, but it's happened more than once.

This is a new CPR playfield and I've got the drop targets flush with the playfield. I also have the entire mech mounted with the targets as close to the front of the playfield as possible.

Oddly enough, I've got an operator friend's game I've been using as a reference and the same thing happens on his and the drop targets are a tad higher than the playfield on his.

I'm stumped.

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#1576 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Yes, seems like a common issue on original and CPR.
It appears the easy solution is a piece of plexi (or even some cereal box cardboard in a pinch) cut and tacked to the inside bottom of the drop target mech to bring the drop target heads (when down) to be flush with the top of the playfield.

I've already added layers of mylar to get the targets flush with the playfield. The new targets must be a tad shorter than originals because they were a good 1/16" lower than the playfield. I may add a bit more and see what happens.

I find it interesting they didn't allow for adjustment like on the other drop target mech.

#1580 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally, on later revisions of their drop targets, added a metal "L" bracket in order to feel in the space between the drop targets.
Midway/Bally #0390-00100-0000 ; #0390-00100-00XF, BRACKET: FILLER ( 6 REQ'D.)

I'm confused with the part numbers. You have two listed and say 6 required. Also, any idea if/where they're available?

#1582 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally/Midway listed the part# two different ways on two deferent pages just giving the part #'s
0.039 thick metal, 1/4" wide, 1 13/16" long (inside), 5/8" top (inside)
#5 holes (2 req'd)3/8" spaced: center too center.
The top center hole is approximately 17/32" from the bottom edge.
The bottom center hole is approximately 5/32" from the bottom edge.
Reference: Bally's Kings of Steel or Beat the Clock for part shape.

Thanks and I get it now. The pieces also make sense. The 5/8" part fills the gap in between the targets.

Does anyone know if these are available anywhere and also, can they be fitted on an older mech like on EBD?

#1585 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You should have bought some back in 1984
when they were available.

Now you tell me.

#1586 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

Have any photos or reference on what this looks like? It would be cool to try and replicate.

Maybe not the prettiest, but they work. Wish I could have laser cut them.

Not sure I like the look. I might leave them until one of my friends asks, "WTF are those?" Then they get yanked and I deal with the ball traps.

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1 month later
#1609 2 years ago

I've got an issue with my lower pop bumper randomly firing during a game. Spoon switch is fine. A buddy told me it could be because of interference when the flippers are operated. He said there was a discussion on this on Pinside. I've looked but can't find anything.

Can someone point me in the right direction?

#1611 2 years ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

If it's firing with flipper activity it's a common Bally issue. I had the same exact issue with my Mata Hari. Lots of ideas on how to fix it. See this thread. See my post #218 in that thread. Adding capacitors to the flipper switches solved my issue.

Yup. I found the thread and went through it all. I'm going to start with the easy stuff like the caps.


#1614 2 years ago
Quoted from manples:

I'd like to replace all the connectors of my boards, + those under the playfield as well (I have the "light boards").
Did someone already went through this and kept the list of all the connectors needed ? I'd really appreciate

I did this about a month ago. Sorry, I didn't keep my list but it wasn't that hard to make one.

It's an easy job but time consuming. It took me about 8 hours over a couple days to do them all.

#1616 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I have found that new caps and if that does not work, then remove/seperate the power lines from the bundle of switch wires seems to do the trick.
I have had it on lots of classic Bally games and even after doing everything, it can still happen on rare occurrences.

I will say, in trying to eliminate it, I installed caps on the flipper EOS switches...the ones found on System 11 games. It didn't solve the problem but sure eliminated the arcing. Is this commonly done on older Bally games? I'm thinking of leaving them on.

#1623 2 years ago

This is the best I can do. Both diode bands on on the left.

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#1633 2 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

It makes sense if the diode is the only difference. They could have used the same bobbin+wire types and just moved one leg of one of the diodes. It's also possible that the paper wrappers are wrong. It happened all the time.

I will say this, this being my first older Bally restoration, I simply put the wires back where they initially were before cleaning. Everything in the game worked fine with no issues.

I've now moved the wires to the middle lug and again, no issues anywhere.

My point....it doesn't seem to matter where the orange wires go.

#1639 2 years ago
Quoted from OwenKhan:

Ok, Cactus... I think I'm on board now. So you're saying the center post on this particular SOL is ONLY there as a point to solder to? (this can be different on flipper SOLs, right?)
Assuming that is right (center post = no wraps) then the photo that Bryan Kelly posted is wrong, or at least substantially different... as if the center post isn't wired to anything then one of those diodes isn't doing anything at all because one end isn't connected to anything.... right??? Could the SOL still work wired like this? or are we making an incorrect assumption about that center post?
Where as in the photo posted by g94 the two brown power lines are on the center post, from which current would then flow through the diode and into the coils, and the other diode bridges post 1 and post 3. This seems to match the schematic 100%.
Am I on track here? Thanks again for your time, its really helpful to have folks like you take the time to answer my questions thoroughly.

This pic should show it better. Notice the coil wires go to the left and right lugs. The back diode is the one that's in parallel with the coil. The front one is the one in series, but only if one of the wires gets connected to the center lug. I had my wires connected on the left and right, thereby excluding the series diode.

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5 months later
#1865 1 year ago

I just put up a bunch of EBD parts for sale. Let me know if you need anything.


1 year later
#2285 7 months ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

What do people use to replace the peeling off foam strips on the ends of the original displays? There has to be something better.[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd take a piece to a big box store. Lots of weather stripping options.

2 months later
#2373 5 months ago
Quoted from firefighter:

Ok I need help finding this .047 mfd capacitor you talk about as there is so many to choose from, and a picture would be helpful also.

I've got a bunch. PM me your shipping info and I'll send you some.

#2378 5 months ago
Quoted from DigitalJB:

Could I grab on of those caps as well ?????

Sure thing. PM me your shipping info.

#2379 5 months ago

I just put up a playfield for sale, if anyone is interested.


2 months later
#2468 68 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

$2500 isn't bad at all, right? I mean, it's certainly 'up there' by pinside historical numbers but iirc none have been recorded sold with hardtops yet.
Thanks for reading my ridiculously long post

If it makes you feel any better, I've got about $4500 into mine.

-Paid $2000 for the base game. Yeah, too much but it had mostly new boards, the back glass was nice and it was local.

-paid $500 to have someone else stencil and paint the cabinet. I spent close to 40 hours prepping it.

-I installed new playfield and plastics. I also replaced all the lamp sockets.

-New legs and side rails.

-All new displays and many other parts.

-Was given an 84 version playfield with lots of parts that I used many of.

-I repinned every connector. That alone took 8 hours over two days. After 4 hours of it one day, I had to take a break.

I've got over 120 hours into the restoration and I don't think I'd ever do another from that era. It was a lot more work than I was used to.

$2500 with a hardtop doesn't sound all that bad if everything else is fairly nice.

#2476 68 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Wow...new gold standard to compare our EBD's to. $7500 but I don't think I've ever seen a nicer one:

Damn, that's nice!

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