(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 2,368 posts
  • 269 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by KSUWildcatFan
  • Topic is favorited by 118 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2150 5 months ago
Quoted from slghokie:

Helped a buddy repair and restore this 8BD to players condition. Here is the repaint before and after. Debated about painting around the inserts with black. BRIAN_G
[quoted image]

Restoration looks great, nice job! May I ask, did you use acrylic or enamel paint? And if acrylic, did you apply some sort of clear over it (and on the entire playfield or just one part)? Thanks

1 week later
#2155 5 months ago

Hi All,

Just bought a 1981 EBD and it has a weird issue with the playfield lamps/1-7 and 8-15 ball (horseshoe) drop targets:

First of all, while all the targets are all standing, the 2, 5 and 6 ball lights next to the targets are out, and down at the bottom above the flippers, it shows the 2, 6 and 13 balls lit. For the second player (shooting stripes), it shows the 9, 10, 13 and 15 balls out and down below, the 13 ball is lit.

When the horseshoe drop targets are hit, it does the following:

Target Top, Bottom
------- ---- --------
1 Stays lit, 9 lights up
2 Out already, 2 goes out (instead of lighting up)
3 Properly goes out, 3 properly lights up
4 Properly goes out, 4 properly lights up
5 Stays lit, 1 lights up
6 Stays out, 10 lights up, 6 goes out
7 Properly goes out, 3 properly lights up

The striped balls have similar issues.

Any ideas of what may be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'd prefer not to spend too much (if any) on a pinball repair specialist coming to the house.

Best to all, and start chalking!

#2163 5 months ago
Quoted from slghokie:

srose007, I use the createx acrylic airbrush paints painted with brush. Once matched and painted I use a heat gun to set the paint. Then I apply a sealer over the spots I painted. Have not been brave enough yet to try auto clear coat on an entire playfield. Want to practice on one first.

Thanks slghokie for that info. I think after my touch-ups I'm going to try painting on a clear coat over the board, sanding, then applying another coat. Based on Vid's suggestion, I know that spraying is better than brushing but I simply don't have the know-how to take apart the playfield any further and simply want to seal in the touch-ups I've done.

#2164 5 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

First thing you should do is put the game in self test mode. The first press of the red button inside the coin door puts the lamps in "burn in" and they will flash repeatedly while in test mode. Any lamps that do not flash have a shorted driver transistor or scr or a short in the wiring harness. Any that do not light either have a bad bulb, loose connection in the lamp socket, bad driver transistor. Often these bulbs will light after pulling them out and pushing back in. The 555 sockets are flaky and and get dirty because of their design. If you are new to pinball, turn the game off while checking under the playfield to prevent accidental shorting. Be sure to bend the sockets back to their original positions.
Open up the back box during the test. Turn game off and re-seat the connectors to the lamp driver and aux driver boards and see if anything changes. If it does, then you need to check and or replace the pins and also look for cold solder joints on the header pins. Push on the connectors while in test mode and if lamps start to light, this will tell you if there's a connector issue.

Thanks to both mathazar and lovef2k for that great info. I'm not too technical but believe I understand what you're saying and will try re-seating the connectors to those driver boards and see what happens. Hopefully I'll come back with another post soon saying everything is fixed! Much appreciated.

#2165 5 months ago

First impression to me is a lamp matrix addressing issue. I'm assuming it's never worked for you since you just bought it....do you know the repair/upkeep history of the machine from the previous owner?

BTW mathazar, I forgot to mention that I bought this off eBay and it essentially works fine. The scoring on the horseshoe drop targets seems to work correctly - the only issue is which billiard ball lights turn off or turn on. So it's not essential to get this part working properly but who doesn't want to have a 100% fully functioning game! Thanks again.

#2168 5 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

You could try pulling off the connector and re-seating it, and/or while the game is running try wiggling that connector and see if the behavior changes. If it does, that's your culprit.

All I can say mathazar and lovef2k is that YOU GUYS ARE GENIUSES!!! I pulled off a couple of the connectors on the two lamp boards, simply plugged them back in, and VOILA, EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN!!! Well, at least with the mapping of the horseshoe drop targets and the corresponding billiard ball lights. AMAZING! You didn't just make my day, you made my month!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you. And thank you to Pinside as well.

OK, now that you're my go-to techs, I have a follow-up question for you:

A couple of the playfield lamps are still out and they remain out during the self-test. I would presume that they are simply bad sockets since I've tried replacing the bulbs multiple times and nothing happens. Should I clean the pins on the connectors that go into the lamp boards or leave well enough alone there? And if I need to have someone replace the sockets, do you have a recommended seller for those?

Take care,

#2172 5 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Bad socket. 35+ year old sockets indeed can give you fits and they're not very expensive. You can source them at Pinball Life as well as Marco's and most other online pinball parts suppliers. Before pinning your hopes on that solution, tho, I'd recommend a test if you've got any experience with a soldering iron. Swap a non-working lamp socket with a known working one under the playfield. If the original lamp location continues to not light and the swapped lamp location does light, the problem is not with the socket and you need to focus elsewhere. If the not-lighting socket continues to not light in its new location (and the swapped socket lights in the original location), you indeed have a bad socket and can be confident in buying a new one (they're only a few bucks each).

Well, I'm not the handiest guy around but willing to try soldering the sockets on and off it you think I won't ruin anything. Do I need a heat-sink or anything like that to make sure I don't screw things up? I don't remember too much from high school electric class, but remember the heat sink thing!

Thanks mathazar

#2174 5 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Honestly, I can't tell you if you'd anything or not without knowing your skills. You can get some basic pinball soldering tips here....don't forget to be careful and not get solder blobs dropping into/onto other parts of the playfield underside:

Excellent, thanks. Just watched the video and waiting to receive my soldering diploma in the mail.

#2175 5 months ago
Quoted from slghokie:

Helped a buddy repair and restore this 8BD to players condition. Here is the repaint before and after. Debated about painting around the inserts with black. BRIAN_G
[quoted image]

Hi there, my playfield is almost exactly the same in that section. Do you happen to have a high-resolution photo of a perfect playfield you could send me or post that I could use as reference? Thanks!

Bad Playfield at Bottom (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2180 5 months ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

How fast do you need it? I could scan my IPB PF that Ron Did for me, but it will take a couple 3-4 days...

Hi BobLangelius, a scan would be fantastic, thank you so much. No immediate rush...

#2181 5 months ago
Quoted from slghokie:

srose007 The IPDB was the best I found. I searched all over looking for a decal overlay for that spot but could not find one. That is why I went with repainting.

Thanks slghokie, that's the best I could find as well...

#2182 5 months ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Which lamps? It’ll narrow down which board and connector(s) that might be the issue if that's where the problem is.

Hi frenchmarky, I followed some suggestions above about removing and replacing the pin connectors to the lamp boards and voila, they all worked as they should! Thanks for your willingness to help!

#2183 5 months ago

Just about to start using naptha, then a magic eraser and alcohol to clean my playfield. Noticed that there are some holes next to the end of each of the three flippers for some reason, possibly had a thin post in them or something? Please see pictures attached. Does anybody else have these on their playfield or know the reason for them? If not, seems like I should fill them in and touch up the paint. Thanks, Steve

Flipper Holes 1 (resized).JPGFlipper Holes 2 (resized).JPG
#2198 4 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Every early Bally playfield has those dimples next to the flipper tips. They are there to help you align the flipper bats. Do not fill them in..
See here:

Thanks quench!

#2199 4 months ago

Alright, continuing to make progress on the playfield restoration. Used the ZEP heavy-duty citrus cleaner/degreaser to clean the playfield, hopefully removing any old wax and dirt. Then sparingly used the magic eraser and 91% rubbing alcohol to try and remove as much of the swirl/ball marks as possible. Next planned step is to naphtha and then tacky cloth the playfield to prepare for painting. QUESTION: For a pretty beat up 1981 playfield (see picture taken before steps above were taken), would you recommend a light spray with Varathane before painting or not. (Please note, my goal is to make this game as good/great as possible without taking apart the entire playfield, using an airbrush, etc. I am mortal and not a professional restorer so I'm prepared for very good results, not professional results)

Bought some Createx paints per Vid1900's suggestion and am planning to touch-up selected areas or fill entire areas with one color (such as the yellow in the "1" ball pictured). QUESTION: Was the "white" portion of the billiard balls at the bottom and middle of the playfield originally a bright white or an off-white?
Following the painting, the plan is to mask off any areas that shouldn't get clear coat and then lay down a few coats of Varathane from rattle cans, sanding appropriately in between.

Any other final tips before I really get underway? Bought replacement plastics, new screws/bolts, rubbers, bumper caps, balls, etc. Excited to finish this puppy and start playing!

Bad Playfield at Bottom (resized).jpg
#2200 4 months ago

One other QUESTION: I'd like to take the playfield completely out of the cabinet. Looks like one big, thick braid of wires under the playfield that connects to multiple pin connectors up in the back box. If I unplug all of those connectors in the back box and run the cables through the slot into the main cabinet, am I good to go or is something else connected that I'm not noticing? Thanks

3 months later
#2294 49 days ago

Hi All,
For some reason, the left lane rollover button (see attached picture) is not properly registering every time a ball is shot up the left side. When the ball goes up slowly, it works almost 100% of the time. But when hit hard/quickly, it seems to almost never register. I tried cleaning the contacts with a business card and that may have helped a bit, but wondering if you think the ball may be banking off the left metal face and missing to the right of the rollover button? If you look closely at the picture you can see the clear plastic lane guide which may allow too much room to the right of the button? Wondering if you EBD aficionados may have some good advice for me.

EBD Rollover Button (resized).jpg
#2309 45 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Have you looked to see if the capacitor on the switch is missing/loose/disconnected ?
This is often the problem when a switch will not register on a "fast" hit.

mbeardsley manu2 chalkey, thanks to all three of you for your replies! I was hoping to see some cut leads from a missing capacitor but it looks like one is firmly in place - see attached photos. I don't know if it is the correct capacitor or not - maybe I need to replace it with another one? If so, would you please advise? If this capacitor looks to be ok and soldered in the proper spots, what other possible solutions would you suggest? And I'll try bending the switch blades so that they're closer together and more sensitive, but I believe I tried that already (when I cleaned the contacts). Thanks!

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