(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Post #1324 Explanation of paints used for screen printing Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1325 What happens when white is used as a base in paint Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #1331 Double screening on playfields Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)

Post #2099 Note changing some GI and chase light sockets: bulbs may sit too high. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)

Post #2103 Correct bulb holder to fit bulbs. Posted by Madmax541 (5 years ago)


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#1114 7 years ago

Ok, time to ask the experts...

First....I am no expert. I am the novice of novices.....that being said.....and reviewing just about everything on the website and going through the EBD manual, I have a problem that has stumped me. It is quite frustrating. I bought an EBD about 8 months ago. Was in a garage for a number of years. When delivered, the squawk and talk board was bad. Sent it out, was fixed. I installed it, everything was good. A couple of months later my upper left flipper started to activate at about 90 percent of the time. From there, it went down to 50 percent and then nothing. All I want to do is play the machine. Working endlessly on it is not my gig.

To date, I have been unable to get the upper left flipper to function.

From the diagrams in the manual, the upper left flipper is only activated when the left bottom end of stroke switch is open and the "dual" switch next to the first left end of stroke switch closes to power the upper flipper. The timing should be correct for all of this to function. I believe that this is correct. I can see the opening and closing happening when I have the playfield tilted up and the switch is depressed. During this test, the left bottom flipper always operates, so I know that the player control switch is ok. Diagram w-1192-28 in the manual show the set up.

I made sure that the contacts between all of the end of stroke switches are free of corrosion with fine grit sand paper.
I also made sure that there was no mechanical drag of the plunger going in and out of the coil.
(Yes, I know that some people want to change the type of flippers to earlier types of models.......those people can save their breath....I would throw the damn thing out before I go through those headaches. The flippers....as designed.....worked for 40 years. I see no reason to change the design now.) Everything looks fine there from the mechanical standpoint.
I then went to replace the coil. I thought that maybe the diodes were shot. When I did a quick test on my multimeter....one tested ok, the other did not.

After replacing the coil (my first time using a solder iron) ....guess what?.......no change.

Other symptoms.....
If I take the return spring off the upper flipper (so there is even less mechanical force on the flipper), when I depress the left flipper button, the rod will fire into the coil (about 10 percent of the time).

Anybody have any ideas? (Remember.......novice)

#1116 7 years ago

Thanks for the quick reply...

So when I manually "lift" the bottom flipper and depress the player control switch, nothing happens. Since the flipper is in the up position, you don't hear the closing of the contacts for that flipper. The upper flipper does not actuate at all..... But......
there seems to be power going to the coil for the upper flipper. I say this because when the flipper return spring is taken off, you can manually move the rod (plunger) into the coil and it holds in position when the flipper is constantly depressed. When you take your finger off the player control switch, the upper flipper coil is deenergized and the rod(plunger) comes out of the coil.

The picture, I believe, are pretty good below.

DSC00383 (resized).JPGDSC00383 (resized).JPG

DSC00384 (resized).JPGDSC00384 (resized).JPG

#1119 7 years ago

Kilmarnock1350,

Thanks for the reply. So the situation is that when I push the left flipper button, the upper left flipper will not actuate at all and go to the "up" position. When I put my finger on the plunger, (when I have another finger actuating the left flipper button and energizing the circuit) I can feel that the plunger vibrates (like it is trying to go into the coil) when the left flipper button is depressed. It just will not slide into the coil. If I tap it just a little, the plunger then goes into the coil but very slowly. The plunger stays engaged inside the coil for the entire time that the switch power is actuated. When the power is deactivated, it comes out no problem. If I have the spring return engaged, the spring return has far too much power and the plunger never actuates to the coil.

I guess, then, that I have the exact opposite problem of yours if I understand your problem. Yours gets stuck in the "up" position where it mechanically binds once the power is engaged. Mine will never get there in the first place. It never enters the coil. If I give it some help.....it will go in, but it just seems weak.

And yes, the spring is missing because I was trouble shooting the system to see if I can get ANY actuation at all.

#1120 7 years ago

Additionally, to answer your question, when I have the left flipper actuated and I have manually put the flipper in the "up" position (energized), the flipper cannot be moved by the finger. Once deenergized, the spring force takes over and the flipper falls back to rest.

#1124 7 years ago

Gatecrasher,

Here are the pictures.....you can see the closure of the gaps and opening of the gaps in the pictures.

DSC00386 (resized).JPGDSC00386 (resized).JPG

DSC00385 (resized).JPGDSC00385 (resized).JPG

#1125 7 years ago

Troubles persist. When I tried to jumper the end of stroke switch for the bottom left flipper, I blew a fuse. (I jumpered to make sure that the stacked switch would close). I believe the fuse is F4 in the A2 power module at the bottom of the cabinet? Now I have no flipper control at all.

#1127 7 years ago

Ok,

Where do I get this dumb fuses? Do I have to go to Marco and buy more fuses? I can 't find anything that has the exact amperage and voltage ratings.

Second....why would the coil be bad? I just replaced it. I think we can rule that one out. That should be low on the order of things to replace.

Third...why would the upper End of Stroke Switch look suspect? Looks brand new to me (at least far better than the EOS switches on the bottom flipper). Shiny...no corrosion.

#1128 7 years ago

Problem resolution,

Per dothedoo stating that the switch did not look correct, I redoubled my efforts on that alone. I reviewed the following youtube video as well.

Per the video, they had a similar problem of a weak flipper although it is on a Williams machine with a totally different flipper system. The test that some of you requested that I perform, namely that I manually move the left upper flipper to the up position (manually) and then see if I could move the flipper "down" while the left flipper button was actuated resulted in me not being able to move the flipper at all. With that, the flipper is ok in "low power" mode. The flipper, therefore, is wired correctly but it is the high power mode that is what is at issue.

I then checked for corrosion on the contacts of the upper left flipper EOS switch and made sure that the contacts were, in fact, touching. I took sand paper and scrubbed the contacts, even though it appeared that I did not need to do that. I also "regapped" the switch to make sure that I had positive contact.

After it all, presto, the flipper works.

Many thanks to all of you who chimed in to help out. I have been on lots of sites where members try to help out others, but this site is particularly good. If any of you who helped out are in the Houston area, pm me and we can grab a beer. I hope my posts on this issue will help others who run across this issue as well.

Plaw

2 months later
#1232 6 years ago

To all,

Background sound is fading in and out. Squawk and Talk board was refurbed recently. Voice sounds are ok, no fading on that. Anybody else have this issue? Also, any way to increase or decrease the sound of the background noises vs. the voice?

Plaw

#1235 6 years ago

Thanks for the reply. It seems that the pot is item number 81 on the Squawk and Talk Board. (Bottom left of the board, colored in blue and labeled voice and background so there is no guessing.) Better bring your glasses, that was small. I used a very fine knife edge to adjust the volume because the adjustment slot is very very thin. Phillips head will not work on it.

Low and behold, when I adjusted the volume, the fading in and out also stopped. Two birds with one stone. Thanks!

1 year later
#1897 5 years ago

Stupid problem that keeps happening...….

Pop bumper caps keep coming off. The tabs keep breaking. As you know, the EBD pop bumper tops are hard to find and cost a ton compared to others. Anyone else have this issue and have a solution?

Plaw

#1899 5 years ago

What actually happens is that I push them in, turn them so they lock. I am getting a failure where the entire locking tab breaks at the connection point of the tab to the cap. It is a shear type failure.

1 week later
#1915 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: EBD OEM caps where frosted tops... Later productions where done with a starburst pattern.
---- Then, starburst with through holes...Also, a service bulletin to add a plastic snap-rings to the
---- collars to keep the caps from turning...
---- Nothing really worked, until Strange Science came into production.
---- To fix EBD caps, you need to drill or buy new style thumper bumper bodies
---- with the two small holes were the ring and rod glides are.
---- Two small screws 5/40 for each cap.
---- Drill two small holes through top of each cap and add the screws to mount
---- through the caps and into the top of the small holes in the thump bumper bodies.
---- Yes, it is a pain to align the holes for the screws.
---- Each EBD caps are aligned in a different position... so you have to go through
---- the top of each cap... Also, Black screws disappear against the black stampings.

Many thanks for providing all of this.

3 months later
#1991 5 years ago

To all,

Does anyone know the size of the screws that attach the top of the pop bumpers to the skirts? Can't seem to find it.

Plaw

6 months later
#2293 4 years ago

Problem and Resolution for all:

Had a strange thing creep up on the machine today. I lost all of the first digits in all scoreboards as well as the ball counter. Did not see a resolution on this anywhere Resolution of the issue was connections based. The score boards, when you open up the back box, are daisy chained. Resolution of the issue for me was simple. I merely went over each computer chip and reseated everything. I also reseated the connections to the scoreboards. After years of sitting there, temperature variations can make things get loose. When I touched the computer chips, you could hear the reseating of each computer chip in each socket. The reestablished connections resolved the issue. Just putting this out there for others who may have a problem similar as the machines are getting up in years and it is summer time.

Regards,

Plaw

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