I remember beating on EBD in the arcade in 1982ish. I was in my mid teens and we loved this game back then. We almost got thrown out of the arcade because we had too much fun if you know what I mean. I remember that game vividly. It had the cream colored back box trim as opposed to the black. I'm not sure if any came black from the factory but I have restored 2 of these and I go with the beige trim, just preference I guess. I currently still have the second one I restored. I have enough parts to restore another, NOS pf cleared by Ron K and an NOS bg. I have all the mechanical parts, I just need a decent game that has a solid cab and wiring. I also picked up a rare, if not the only, white bumper cap and ring with red art instead of black. The guy worked at Bally when these games were being built. He made a small collection of bumper caps from the games he helped work on. He would sneak one home after his shift. DSC02001.JPG

http://southjerseypinball.com/gallery/v/lovef2k/Bally+Eight+Ball+Deluxe/

I see you this issue fixed for now. Those pots should have been replaced when the board was refurbed? The original pots have an open design that lets in dirt and oxidation. and will most likely give you more trouble in the futer. The newer style has a sealed enclosure and are very cheap and easy to replace. Check GPE for them.

sorry for the typo

I see this board has no U7 6810 chip. What am I missing here?

I hate to disappoint but I think they will be white again. I talked to Kevin about this before this last run went to screening. His opinion seems clear that the original color was white. This has been debated on other threads, but white or cream, I'm just happy that a repro will be available soon.

EBD used 2 sizes. The short ones go under the upper plastics where no screws or studs go through the top of the plastics. I can't recall how many but I will check and report back.

EBD PF's in da house! Call me insane but I plan to do 4 EBD restos. 2 of these are CPR golds and the other 2 are rescreened originals. The first of the 4 restos is about 2/3 finished and sold. I will start the other 2 simultaneously beginning with the main cab rehabs. They will be for sale at some point when finished. These will all be the '81 version. The 4th game, hopefully a keeper, will get new cab, back box and coin door wiring harnesses from Third Coast Pinball.

P7110319 (resized).JPG

PM sent

The coil circuit is 43V. The coil should be AT-26-1200. It's a 3 lug coil because it's one of the coils controlled by the solenoid expander board. I don't have the 84 version, only 81 so the wire colors might be different. On mine, the 2 brown wires go to the center lug and the 2 black go to the lug with the banded side of the diode. The 3 lug coil has 2 diodes in series.

None that know of. The Alltek has a free play option built in for all Bally games.

Check the voltage at the rectifier board. It should be close to 43V. If not then something is wrong with the board. If it is and you're only getting 30V at the outhole coil, you may have a connector issue or losing voltage across the SEB. Also check coil voltage at other coils, flippers too.

For coin lockout coil, just desolder one wire and cap it with a small wire nut. No need to remove both wires. Don't cut it as you will shorten the wire and ruin the wire harness.

If you cut them flush with the coil lugs, that's fine. It's just that I have seen so many cut way above the coil and then leaving the wires short.

With flush cutting snips, I have done it. One might lose an 1/8 of an inch if you have to strip the wire and re-solder.

For those who are swapping a CPR EBD pf, this pf is about 1/16" thicker than original. This may present a problem with the screws reaching the threads of the tee nuts. I have seen 2 different tee nuts used on early bally games. One has a 1/4 in. barrel and the other a 9/32 barrel. I know the difference is only 1/32 but it make a difference if using the original screws for the posts. The 9/32 tee nut is hard to find but I found them at a decent price from fastenermart.com . There are 2 different machine screw lengths used on EBD so be careful when doing swap. The difference is small so you have to look at them closely. Another option is to countersink the area where the tee nut will be installed but that's a lot of extra work.

Fastenermart also has the fender washers used inside the cabinet for the coin door bolts (1/8x5/8) and the washer for the power supply mounting plate (3/8x1 1/4x 1/8)

I had new trim made for the pf. I wanted a wood look instead of the black. Trying to bring out the wood from the pf outlanes. I had the special cuts done at a local woodworker shop. $50 total for the wood and labor, not bad. Stain color is Minwax bombay mahogany.

P8030006 (resized).JPG

P8030008 (resized).JPG

P8030009 (resized).JPG

It does blend well with the brown by the outlanes. Yes it is solid oak. I have seen this look on other games but it's usually a veneer instead. I will take a few pics when the wood is dry, I can just sit them on the pf. And yes, I can switch them back to black if necessary. I have 3 coats of stain on them now and the color is much deeper.

I was comparing my plastics set with some of the dimples on the top side of the pf. Some didn't match up. There are a few sources of repro plastics so yours can vary. Don't predrill any holes before installing the plastics. I typically place the plastics on the studs that have the machine screw thread. You can't change this position and then you can predrill the holes once you are certain the plastic is in place. This mainly pertains to the 2 large uppers, the one that covers the multiplier drops and the 8 ball drop. Actually don't predrill any holes before you are certain where each part goes. VAriations in pf's from one mfr. to another can cause holes to not match up. This is due to the fact that the donor pf used on the repro could be different and/or not transfered correctly.

Glad to help. I swapped 6 CPR pf's and you need to pay attention to detail. Refer to old pf as a guide for placement of drop target banks, flipper mounts etc. etc.

The 7 mini coils are known as memory coils. Say you drop targets 1, 2 and 3 and the ball drains. Player 2 will start with all drops in the up position. He knocks down 9 10 and 11 then his ball drains. When ball 2 starts for your turn, the bank resets and then the mini coils will knock down the 3 targets you dropped on the previous ball.

I can supply pics for you, just lmk which area you need.

I have seen EBD's where people have installed the incorrect coils. Some of the coils on this game are controlled by the "solenoid expander" board which is the small green board under the playfield next to the lower left flipper. Any coils from this circuit must have 3 solder tabs on it. Verify from the manual that all your coils are the correct type. Any variation of these coils will cause major problems. Including locked on coils.

With game in attract mode, run the self diagnostic test. The first press of the red button will flash the controlled lamps, you should also see the lamp under the pf by the SEB board flash, when it does, the SEB board relay should click loud enough to hear. If it makes no sounds then it's probably bad. The outhole kicker is on the SEB circuit,, so if the SEB is not working properly, no out hole.

Check for coil voltage at the SEB. Check header pins for cold solder joints. If all good, go to coil self test, I think it's the second press of the red button. There's a chart inside the head with the ID numbers for the coils(solenoids). The ID number will flash on the display at the same time the coil fires. If any coils do not fire, wright the numbers down and post here.

If all coils fire except the outhole coil, then you have a wire or transistor issue. And possibly a connector issue.

Lamp bridge?

I meant, what is the bridge? Is it part of the SEB?

There's no need to remove the entire bank from the pf. Just unplug the 9 pin connector, remove 2 screws from each side that holds the memory coil bracket in place. The coils look correct, drops for ball 1-9 and 2-10 are controlled by the SEB, that's why they have the extra lug. Make sure the plungers for the other 6 memory coils move freely. I don't think the SEB would cause a coil to fry, only fail to switch from one coil to the other if it did fail. I would suspect the driver transistor.

With the memory coils unplugged, do the other coils fire during self test?

Yes that's correct. The SEB controls 6 coils in all as shown in schematic. The SEB relay switches from one line to the other depending on what the game is calling for. The extra diode on these coils prevents the other coils from being energized. The reason for the SEB is that EBD exceeds the standard 16 coils on most games. The solenoid driver board is only capable of running 16 coil circuits. EBD has 19 if you include the coin door lock out and knocker. The SEB takes the extra 3 coils plus 3 out of the 16 and splits the circuit between those 6. The 6 that were chosen are not needed during the fast parts of the game play so there's time for the SEB to react.

I have had many EBD's and have seen burnt memory coils before. So not uncommon. Replace the corresponding transistor.

Andy spitler can make the free roms.

Amber for me...

Free play roms.

I guess it's a matter of opinion. You're not changing the physical aspect of the game by changing roms, you can always switch back.

It is clever.

To get more tension on the star roll-over, remove the leaf switch and bend the upper leaf upward with a switch adjustment tool or thin needle nosed pliers. You want to bend it at the base where the stacks are. You may have to tweak it a little as you don't want too stiff either. Also with switch removed, make sure the star moves freely. It should drop on it's own with the pf laying horizontally. If this is a new CPR pf, you may need to clean out some clear from the star insert, CAREFULLY! You need about 1/16 spacing between the contacts.

Looks like the wrong spring. The spring part number is SP-100-350. It looks as if the extra tension on the short spring is causing the target to pull forward and causing it to bind, which is why the rubber band was placed to help pull it down.

The head support should be permanently mounted to the base cab. I see these come loose quite often due to the fact that only 3 nails were placed on the back edge and a few staples on the sides. I'm currently rebuilding one now. Here's a head that I restored years back. The black trim was so bad that I removed it and took trim from a Star trek head and used them instead. I'm pretty sure I saved the old ones and you are welcomed to them if you pay the shipping. They are rough but maybe you can have a carpenter replicate them. Basically all the Bally solid state heads are the same, except for Xenon and Space Invaders since they have a hinged backglass. One of my EBD project games has real bad head like yours, even worse, so I'm using a Flash Gordon head to replace it.

Before and after:

IMG_0910 (resized).JPG

IMG_0925 (resized).JPG

IMG_1162 (resized).JPG

Yes there are stencils available. I'm using these on my current resto: http://pinballpimpstencils.com/?page_id=486

LMK about the trim.

OK I stand corrected

Main and Aux, they make both.

I have changed the 555 to bayonet 44's on 2 EBD games. I did however, keep the 555 for the GI lamps just to keep the top side of the pf looking more original. The bayonets are more LED friendly than 555 socks. LED's are very difficult to insert into 555's

If you keep the 555's for the GI, you can clean them up and clean the contacts with a tiny emery board to 400 sand paper. Leave old bulbs in and spray paint white if removed form the pf.

I like the amber as well, but I would like a white set just for nostalgia.

The coil is wired incorrectly. The black wires go on the lug the coincides with banded side of the diode and the brown/orange go to the center lug. EBD has more coils than the standard solenoid driver can acommodate. So bally came up with the solenoid expander board (SEB) which is mounted under the pf, near the pf fuse. It controls 7 coils in the game
1. Outhole kicker
2. one ball DT memory coil
3. two ball DT memory coil
4. saucer eject
5 inline DT reset coil
6. 7 bank DT reset coil (2 coils,same circuit)

All of these coils should have 3 lugs with 2 diodes. Any variation will result in weirdness. The diodes are wired in series. The center lug of the coil is a soldering point between the 2 diodes depending on where the coil is used in the game. The coil winding is connected to the outer coil lugs only. It seems confusing until you understand the theory. The expander has a relay that switches between the 3 of the coil circuits and the other 3 depending on game play. The extra diode prevents 2 coils from being energized at the same time. With game on and in attract mode, push the self test button on the coin door 1 time. This activates the controlled lamp test and SEB board. You should hear the SEB clicking in sync with the controlled lamps flashing. If it does not, then there's an issue. First thing to check is the header pins for the SEB for cold solder joints. Or bad relay. Located by the SEB is a lamp socket and bulb. Bulb should be flashing with controlled lamps in test mode.

Black wires go the lug with non-banded side of diode and the brown go to the center lug.

Correction, the black wires go to the non-banded side.
This post was meant for owenKahn

It's been ages since I have read this thread. Has anyone had issues with the repro plastic sets? Mainly the clear flipper return lane and the upper right 8 ball inner clear. I have 3 sets and none are correct. What have you guys done to get around this?

Years back, I think it was Marco or BAA, sold a 3 piece set that included the lane returns and the piece left of the 8 ball DT. I bought a few and luckily I have enough for a few more games. Classic Arcades sells them on epay but they are much thinner, but they are plastic protectors and not actual replacements. I searched for them on PPS and BAA and found that BAA had the lane returns sold separately and also the 3 piece set. I ordered what they had left which was 2 sets. I got them yesterday and to my disappointment they are the same as classic arcades.

I have never remade any plastics yet, but I think it will be inevitable at some point. How did you cut them? What material?

Yeah Jeff, I don't have the time to keep up with the groups as I would like. It's been months since I even posted on this thread. Also when i did my first EBD resto in 2010, I used cpr plastics and the inner right lane clear was correct. It was only the flipper returns that were wrong. I sourced the correct lane returns from another pinhead back then. Enough for a few games.
I think there was a guy that did them correctly, that was a guy named Alan. Forget the last name. But thanks for clearing this up. Now I know why they are screwed up.

I have never found exact replacements for Bally slings. I keep the old switches and just change the blades. I use these:

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=BS-SW-1A-120

I'm not sure if Bay Area ships international but you can ask them. Marco Spec also has this switch but is a little more expensive but they probably will ship to you.

So take these apart and toss everything except the blades. The holes are slightly smaller that the original blades so you will have to enlarge them with a round file or a diamond bit in the Dremel. It doesn't take much effort to make them fit and the blade length is perfect. I have done this several times in all my early solid state restos.

Yes it was him.

I wouldn't drill the plastics. You might end up cracking them and hate yourself later. Take a deep breath. Be patient. Are you using the crimper that gatecrasher shows in pic? It's very cheap at most auto parts stores. They usually come in a kit with fuses and crimp connectors. I start out with the middle size until I get the metal to take shape and then go to the small size. Like any metal, you need to work it slowly, keep turning the stand as you crimp. Eventually you will get the hang of it. Also keep the stand flush to the bottom of the crimper while doing so. Your hands may get tired and sore,so just do a few at a time.

It would be very costly to reproduce these and there wouldn't be enough demand to warrant the expense. I believe these are actually 2 pieces, one being the bell shaped stand the the other being some sort of eyelet like you would see on a sneaker where the laces go through. There must have been special tooling made just for this purpose. The amount pressure needed to flare the top would make the stands cave in at the top if they were just pressed downward, so I believe they where crimped somehow.

If the drop targets are too high, then there's something wrong. The very bottom of the target should sit flat on the bottom metal piece that has the round holes in it. I assume you are referring to the horseshoe targets? If you are using the CPR pf then the targets actually sit too low because their pf is about 1/16 inch thicker and the clear coat adds even more thickness. This causes a place for the ball to get stuck and I had to shim my targets. Same holds true with the flippers. Add a brass washer under the flipper bat so the flipper doesn't drag across the pf.

My first EBD had missing sounds and I changed U12 on the S&T. That fixed it. U12 us a AY3 8912

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=D56340AA1B673AA1313FD8017EA6B004.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=ay3+8912

Also it would be a good idea to replace the caps and volume pots.

I forgot to mention that the deluxe targets make 2 different sounds when hit. They make a echoey boop sound if not going for deluxe and then a more agressive sound when going for deluxe after the 8 ball target has been sunk.

Always start with the power supply when troubleshooting a pin. Test the values with J 1,2,3 and 4 disconnected. This is a no load test. If lamp voltage is still low, it's most likely a failing bridge rectifier. Incoming voltage from transformer to BR1 via J6 purple wire is 8.2 Volts AC and purple/blk is 9.4 volts AC If you want to verify transformer performance. BR1 supplies 6.5 volts DC for the switched lamps. The bridge is easy to change and not very expensive. Also check the fuse clips for F1 for signs of overheating. Replace if tarnished.

Big Daddy Enterprises sells a rebuild kit for the -54. The connectors on the -54 are AMP brand and use .084 pins and sockets. He also has these. EBD has IDC connectors for the rest of the game. IDC = insulation displacement connector. These can be flaky after 35 plus years. I replace them with Molex type. The smaller connectors are .100 size and the large are .156. Big Daddy, Great plains elect are the best sources for these. They sell the crimping tool as well.

If the game has been sitting then you will have connector issues. Which one is burnt? If you are getting over 7 volts at TP1 then there's no reason to check incoming voltage at J6. A little high shouldn't hurt anything. 5.5 is low. The lamps need 6.3 to run properly. It's possible that the connectors are causing some resistance and making the voltage drop. Try re-seating the connectors by pulling apart and re-connecting a few times for each one. Don't forget the aux driver on the backbox lamp panel. Did you install any LED lamps in the game? They will flicker if you don't have a Alltek driver or a latch resistor on each lamp.

Back to the displays. If the rectifier is only putting out 150V that's too low. The displays need about 170-180 volts. I think it's time to rebuild the rect board or buy a new reproduction board. Incoming high volt should be 170V AC from the transformer, J5 red wires pins 2 and 3.

GI voltage comes straight off the transformer 6.5 V AC. If all GI lamps are dim, it could be tarnished fuse clips. These are high current clips that will come with the rebuild kit if you order it.

And I just thought of this,, any lamps that are acting up may need to be pulled and reseated. The 555 sockets are easily fouled by oxidation and/or dirt. And if this game sat dormant for a long time, all lamps and sockets may need to be cleaned depending on where the game was stored. Humidity and moisture reek havoc on these games.

It is in the manual on the cabinet wiring diagram page. At the far right side of the page you will see "Voltage jumper connections"

There are 4 jumper combinations. Next to 115V you will see 2-8, 3-6, 7-10. This means these pin numbers need to be jumpered if running on 115V which most games for the US were jumpered for. You should have 3 orange wires for your jumper settings. The pins are numbered on the connector but the numbers are very tiny and you may need a magnifying glass to see them ,no kidding.
Big Daddy sells these connectors too. You will need the .084 pin extraction tool if you want/need to swap it out. I recently sold the game I just restored so I can't provide pics but maybe someone else can.

Stay away from the ceramic. The fuse clips cannot handle the heat. You need a standard 20 A fuse, fast blo. GPE has a nice selection of USA fuses.

SEB only controls the 1 and 2 ball target memory coils, horseshoe target reset, outhole kicker, saucer eject and the inline drop target reset coils.

I seems like a switch matrix or grounding issue. Check the switch for the 4, 12 target for anything abnormal. May be bent and touching something. Make sure the horseshoe bank assy. is not touching any trace wire under the pf, especially that one insert lamp that's tucked under there. If you have an extra solenoid driver, throw it in and see if the game has the same issue. Another thing to check is the insulated paper behind the start switch, they wear and cause problems when it comes in contact with coin door.

Diode lead may be touching something or crapped out. There's a common connection for the all the switches via a bare braided wire, look at that also.

Also do a switch test in test mode. All drops should be reset and ball removed. You get 0 in the match/ball display. If a switch is closed, the game will ding and the switch number will appear in the display.

page 12 "game over attract" sw 30

Glad to hear that you found the culprit. It could have been a tiny piece of solder that dripped or splashed over it. Those switches being so close the edge of the pf doesn't help. That area for me is the hardest part of the swap, replacing the yellow stand up targets, diodes and caps, oh what fun!!

As solderboy mentioned, the inline targets and also the 8 ball target have a adjustment plate under the target bank. Loosen 2 screws just enough to free movement of the plate and adjust. The horseshoe target bank is not adjustable. If you swapped with a CPR you will see that the horseshoe targets sit low due to the CPR wood being about 2-3 mm thicker than the original. I fixed this by placing 1/16 inch washers inside the lower section of the target bank, therefore raising the target resting height.

i hate you lol

I like Cointaker warm white frosted. They also help with the warping of the plastics since they give off much less heat than the 555's

The PF looks decent for an EBD. How many flashes are you getting on the mpu when turning on power?

That's a bummer. You probably need to find another transformer since the wiring on these cannot be replaced. A Xenon or Flash Gordon will work. Actually most Bally games that have the transformer in the cab will work. Some may have a few add ons like GI flashers or florescent lamp transformers. I will look for one at Pinfest next month.

Or, if you have the manual, you can trace the wires and get it back to where you can atleast power it up. Right now it seems that the 115V is touching ground since the side rails are part of the ground causing you to get zapped. I wouldn't be too optimistic though, since house current probably hit the ground sides of the boards as well.

1N4148 or 1N4004

can't wait to see it

Only 1 diode is needed per side since the switches are wired parallel. I would replace the diodes since you will be working on it anyway. Very cheap. 1N4148 or 1N4004

Those sockets are NLA, no longer available. I did 2 EBD swaps and changed from 555 wedge base socket to the 44 bayonet style. They are much more reliable and the LEDs fit better.

I would try putting the incandescent lamps back in and see if anything changes. Also contact Alltek support and explain the issue. They are usually quick on the reply. Is jumper installed from alltek to switched lamp bus as per alltek instructions? Verify switched lamp voltage is in spec.

If you have a TP13 then you have an Alltek driver already. Original driver does not have the LED support. Either the Alltek is failing or there's a short in the lamp circuit. Try contacting Alltek support via email. They reply quickly.

I agree, I had a Centaur II and working on it was a challenge.

no there isn't. If you have CPR pf then the targets might be sitting too low because of the extra thickness of the pf wood and the clear coat. The ball will get stuck on the drop target bank if the targets are down. You will need to find a way to shim the targets up by placing something on the bottom bracket of the bank where the targets rest when down. Perhaps a flat piece of metal that can be mounted there. I used thick washers.

Yeah about 3/32 to 1/8 inch.

I also thought of using foam similar to beer seal but was afraid the foam would crush or dry rot over time.

I have used these with good results but of course out of stock. Maybe somebody has them:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7176-1

I have 3 more EBD's in cue to restore, I would love to see white caps reproduced. I would like to make a game with the white caps and red posts like the 81 flyer shows. Speaking of bumpers, has anyone seen any new pop bumper bases for sale that are actually white? I might send a sample to Shapeways once I get settled in my new place.

I think the gold is the same as the 81 cab. Also used on FG...

I have them. In fact, I have reproduction cards and warning labels for entire EBD, Xenon, FG, Star Trek and F2K pins. I sell sets or singles. PM me.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-restoration-thread/page/2#post-3949912

scroll to top to see pics

I'm jealous! I want those caps lol. I have white rings but haven't found the caps yet. What is the cab serial number? I have 1376, cab only and doing a new restore this year.

Oh yeah I forgot about him. Anyway, I have the yellow stickers already done if you need one. Perfect match.

Cool. I think they started at 1000 so you have #46

PM sent

As BJM-Maxx said, don't lube the flipper mech or any other mechanicals on solid state games as the grease will cause problems later. The flipper return springs on linear flippers are weak. Make sure there's enough tension to pull the flipper back. Also I have seen coil stops become magnetized causing sticking flippers. Look for loose screws on the coil stop and the coil retaining bracket. There should not be any resistance when moving flipper by hand, if there is, you may need to replace the bushing on the flipper shaft or clean/replace coil sleeve. Also there should be about a 1/16 inch minimum up and down clearance of the flipper in relation to the playfield so the flipper bat doesn't drag. The Pinball Resource is a good place to buy flipper parts for Bally games.

The upper posts under the left and right sling shot plastics have pre-drilled holes in the playfield for moving the posts up and down for conservative, medium and liberal adjustments. Only takes a few minutes to change them.

I don't believe there's specific color for the pf. These pf's were made by different manufacturers for the same title. Also each ages differently due to sun light, environment and exposure, etc. etc.

Your best bet is to try and match the colors by trial and error of send to a pro for touch up.

That's a tough area on this game. If the saucer mech is off slightly the ball will not eject and fall back into the saucer, or over shoots the saucer in your case. I have done 3 resto EBD's and this happened to me as well. It's possible that the clear plastics there are worn down. Can you try moving the lower clear plastic upward to close the gap?

I have noticed that seller asks for very high prices for their games. I think the average price for a LE is around $2500. To me the original version was the best. I restored 3 of them and sold them for total of almost $18K. But, they were full blown restos with CPR pf's and chrome up the wazoo lol.

IIRC it's a specialty screw about 3/4 in long with course thread. I probably have a few extra ones if you're not in a hurry. My pins and parts are in storage and I just moved so it will take a week or 2 to get to them.

I thought about doing that since I had the 3 boards but I thought it would be too much work. I did however swap out the 555 sockets to bayonet 44 style. For me the 555 sockets at the time were not user friendly with LED lamps. I think also that the 81 and LE versions have different colors for all the controlled lamp wiring IIRC. Do you have the LE manual, it should tell how the fuse block is wired? I have one but it's in storage at the moment.

yes the pin outs are the same for the Alltek driver. The 5x might be switched on the aux lamp driver.

Also you should check the leaf switches for adjustment. If the switch blades are too close, vibrations will cause the switch to close momentarily causing the 4x to light up. Or if it sticks, the 4x will stay lit and 2x will go out because the game thinks the 4x target was dropped. If that's not the issue then maybe the diode is on it's way out.

I have had 5 EBD games so far and they were mounted both ways. The plastic mounted under the metal is correct. I noticed Flash Gordon which was the game made just before EBD did not have the plastic guide, only metal. I noticed that the metal guides got peened over on FG which also beats up the ball. When I did a FG restore, I added the plastic guides to match EBD. It helps keep the ball from jumping over the metal guide and lets the GI light be more visible. This may be why Bally added it to EBD? Who knows? Only problem is that the plastic guide breaks and wears faster than the metal.

chromed

DSC01791 (resized).JPG

DSC01792 (resized).JPG

Nobody makes them but you can use them from old plastics which are the same stand. Early Bally and Stern are the same.

I used Shay's repro plastics on my last restore and didn't have this issue.

No new Bally ball guides that I'm aware of. I have the metal to make them but it's a tedious process. First I have to remove the L brackets from the original guide. I flatten the original guide and use it as a template to mark the new holes for the L bracket rivets. I use nickel plated brass rivets that are similar to the originals. The rivets I have are slightly longer so I need to use a back up washer behind the rivet. It's hidden by the PF plastics so it's no big deal.

I bought the metal from "Metal by the inch" online about 8 years ago. Mirrored stainless. They cut it slightly over an inch, maybe by a 32nd. It doesn't make a difference on EBD except at the very top by the left ball gate. The guide needs to ground down a tad. The ball gate covers it and it's never visible. I have enough to make a few more, I can't remember off the top of my head how many pieces I have left. My pins and parts are in storage since I moved. I will be getting everything out of storage within the next 2 months. If you're interested in having me make one, PM me.

You can also check out Vids thread for making new ball guides.

That seems like a switch matrix problem. Since the switches behind the target bank are near the edge of the PF, it's easy to knock something out of adjustment. Usually from the prop rod. I would look at those switches very closely. Get a flashlight in there and poke around. Look for any diode or cap leads touching anything they are not supposed to be touching. Make sure none of the leaf blades are bent. The spacing between the contacts should be about 1/16 in. when targets are up. If you have the game schematics, look to see if the 1 and 3 targets are on the same column. You may have a diode gone bad or a shorted capacitor. To test a diode, you need a good VOM with a diode test setting. I recommend a Fluke meter. A good diode should read about 60 Millivolts. You have to unsolder one side to test a diode.

Also if the switch contacts are too close, the vibration from the targets dropping will activate nearby switches. It attract mode, try bumping the side of the PF near that target bank and see if anything happens that shouldn't...

Refer to post #2000 previous page about the multiplier drop targets. To add to that, try closing the 2X target switch by hand and see if it does the same thing. If the game is scoring the 4X target, then the switch for 4 must be closing somehow, maybe contacts too close or problem with matrix. Not sure what you mean by schematic not matching, can you explain?

Yes that is very possible since the tilt switch is on the same column as the multiplier drops. I believe the cab roll tilt switch, the coin door slam and PF tilt are wired in parallel and share the same block in the matrix. I can't verify this since my games are in storage right now. Once I had a Meteor that would not boot with coin plugged in, unplugged, it booted. So weird things can happen when the coin door has a short. And they often do because people hack them by adding door bell switched for credits. Cutting wires etc.