Long Island, NY
Loving the destruction jackpot one shot off the magnet.
Are there other games that have this type of all-or-nothing one shot?
(Topic ID: 300354)
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Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021-
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
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Stern, 2021
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Quoted from coasterguy:It's incredible how many different lines the ball can travel.
Completely agree. I didn't think much of that path behind the pop bumper when I saw it streamed. But when you play it and the ball goes from the left side of the building, across the playfield, around the pop, and delivered to your left flipper...it's like an invisible wireform ball guide above the playfield. Very cool.
1 week later
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:First-time pin owner who is trying to get his game set up securely without going crazy. It was recommended to me to replace the factory stern rubbers.
If this is your first pin and you just got it…I would not recommend changing all the rubbers. You don’t need to be taking apart plastics if you’ve never owned a pin before. Let it settle in and then change as necessary.
As was mentioned, slingshots and flipper rubbers are a good, easy tweak.
Quoted from VALIS666:What was the reason someone recommended you swap every rubber out?
Could be better performance from titans, less black dust, and/or for a better look.
1 week later
Quoted from ExSquid:I'm really hoping if I do this its local. Weird thing is I live on Long Island a HUGELY populated area and its pretty hard to come by any pinheads here. Maybe ill get lucky who knows.
Long Island in the house 
Don't have a pin to sell you, though. Hi neighbor!
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:Still trying to figure out how to get my Stern Connected ( Swag box ) they said they would ship. It never shipped.
I had the same problem. Ordered in July. Emailed in Aug, Sept, Oct, Nov. Called, tried facebook, etc. Zero responses.
I finally gave in and opened a dispute with my credit card company. No idea if it was related....but the box arrived today.
Quoted from horse_cop:I've got a dolly and a strap. Still kinda nervous getting the thing inside and set up. Any advice?
This video will help, too.
For the part where the second guy comes in to lift up the machine and install the back legs...a lot of people use a high stool instead.
Quoted from PinHacks:the game loses track of any balls locked on top of the building if your game ends while they're up there. Trying to start another game initiates a ball search and they're found.
Aerosmith dumps the balls from the toy box after the game ends BUT…you need to wait a few seconds before you start a new game. If you wait, does it release the balls?
6 months later
Quoted from Beyndtstng:If there is interest in this, then I would be happy to do it
Yes please! Can/will you save it (VOD) for later viewing? Just want to make sure I get to see it
thanks!
Quoted from Magicmike0:This is the normal function of double flippers! It’s working perfect! That’s how they are supposed to work. The upper only goes off when pressed completely in. I remember asking this question years ago when I got my first pinball(Swords of fury) which had an upper flipper as well. So yeah bud you got absolutely no issue going on
Correct. It is called Stage Flipping and exists so that you can cradle a ball on your lower flipper and flip the upper flipper to make a shot during multiball.
More info here:
Quoted from ChesterWhite:Don't know when it fell out and I can't find it ANYWHERE in the game cab / playfield / etc
Did you check the cabinet speaker? Whenever I can't find something it tends to be stuck somewhere in there...
Quoted from Beyndtstng:Tutorial is up to watch on-demand. Starts with a nice terror build-up and cash out. Highlights include a 700+ million carnage collect and a 270 million bridge mb. The latter gave me the opportunity to show why you focus on jackpots in GZ mb or the second tier 2 battle. I’ll do another one tomorrow morning around 9 eastern if there is enough interest.
The stream was great. Highly recommended! After watching, I doubled my prior high score.
I won't be able to watch live, but would definitely watch afterward if you decide to do it.
Thanks again.
Is this a handle?
I hate to slam my playfield over the stops to get it back into the cabinet, so I usually lift underneath the back/top of the playfield. But then I saw this handle on JP & GZ. I'm tempted to use it, but when I grab it, the backboard on both seems to wobble a bit. Is this safe to grab and lift?
IMG_4194 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yes. Good to use as a handle.
Excellent. Thanks.
Quoted from vicjw66:Is it possible the inlane and outlane switches are reversed? So the game thinks it’s draining and adding ball back during ball save or the new 3rd ball oxygen destroyer mode?
Wouldn’t be the first time switches were swapped from the factory. Switch test holds the answer…
Quoted from Beyndtstng:You’ll need to hit all three of those standups to spin it around for the add a ball and ebriah spinner.
Excellent. Thanks.
Is there a recommendation on which battle to choose if you have two balls locked and are about to start the multiball?
For anyone having trouble with glass removal, something like these may help:
https://www.amazon.com/LOCCEF-MicroFoam-Nitrile-Coated-6-Seamless/dp/B09GV6LCYX
I was using these (different pair, but similar) to remove glass on all my pins to avoid fingerprints on the glass. The nitrile coating provides tackiness that makes it easy to remove the glass. I had to buy in a multi-pack so I just keep a pair in the coinbox of each pin.
My glass isn't THAT tight, but I've never had a problem when using these.
2 weeks later
Regarding clear skirts... would these parts from Marco get the job done?
Quoted from Zitt:Afaik, I'm the only one that produces the bases in color. I also beat Marcos pricing.
That said, I understand the desire to order everything from one place.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/PopBumper.php
Thanks. I wanted to order from you, but as you mentioned, you’re sold out.
That said, I don’t mind waiting. Can/should I order now and then receive later? Or just wait to order?
1 week later
Quoted from ExSquid:The service menu buttons don’t work. I looked to see if anything was loose or disconnected but couldn’t find anything. I’ll try again with fresh eyes in the morning. But was just wondering if anyone had similar issues.
Lots of issues with these lately. Push hard and they will likely work a bit. Request a replacement from your distributor…
Quoted from etr104:Hey guys .. long story short, I ordered a Godzilla Premium back in January (no deposit taken). My distributor still has no eta on it. However I now am informed that my distro will have some Rush premiums in stock. (Another game I really wanted). Getting the Rush will delay my being able to afford the Godzilla (without taking out some debt which I hate doing). So I guess my question to you guys... a Godzilla Premium ordered in January with no ETA on it from my distro. realistically, when would you expect it to show up? My worry is getting the Rush now, and then my distro suddenly getting Godzilla Prem in stock quickly, and me having to either cancel my order or take out debt to buy it. How far backlogged are these Godzilla orders at this point?
As your distributor where are you in line for their orders. Wait times vary DRAMATICALLY based on who you ordered from and how many people are in front of you.
If you’re high up on the list, maybe wait. If not, buy rush and the sell it (maybe a small loss) when your GZ is ready.
Quoted from etr104:So I guess my question is, of the people just getting games now, how long ago did they order? How long did they have to wait?
I waited two months (April - June) from a small distributor. But I also put my name on the list from a large distributor in October and I still haven’t heard anything.
So, unfortunately, it completely depends on the distributor and where you are in line.
If you want a semi-accurate answer for your particular situation, I would suggest using the pinball map page on pinside and looking just for Godzilla machines on your side of Canada. Message a few people that have it in their collection and ask them how long they waited.
Another satisfied MRS (Magnetic Reed Switch) replacement customer here. I was having the occasional issue where a slow moving ball over the switches near the pop wasn't registering. I replaced with the MRS switches from Sonic and they work perfectly 100% of the time.
Install was straight-forward and the instructions here detail it step-by-step:
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/this-is-the-way-the-mandalorian-owners-club/page/91#post-6838283
Highly recommended if you're having that issue.
IMG_4387 (resized).jpegQuoted from Jedi_Gill:So I've noticed recently that when I try to do a soft plunge skill shot.. Sometimes It won't register. I checked the switch however and it seems to work all the time.. so I wondered if the latest update messed up the code or change the rules for the skill shot to register. Did anyone also notice their soft plunges weren't registering? Sometimes when this light is red, and you have to hit it. The ball passes through and it doesn't make the red go away.. I wondered if maybe it needs to be hit twice.. I forgot what mode or feature makes the light turn red to get this activated or points given.. but hoping someone else can chime in.. It's all possible I just have a faulty switch and I'd be willing to install these magnetic switches to fix the problem. Thanks.
This is precisely the issue that the switches solve. It's not the the switch is faulty, per se, just that the ball isn't rolling over it with enough speed to get it to activate.
AFAIK, the rules haven't changed...
Quoted from Days:Hello, in the battle against titanosaurus after the maser shoot, there is " shot the captive ball" where is the captive ball? Its the magna grab?
thanks
Yes.
1 week later
Quoted from greenhorn1:s this a bug? Was just on ball 3 and started monster zero, the ball save for monster zero ran out and I drained out the right outlane but oxygen destroyer didn't trigger.
Are you sure you hand't used it already during that game? It is enabled/lit starting on ball 3, but doesn't relight after you use it (even if you get an extra ball).
I've seen a lot of posts of people who have done @zitt's/pinball-mods.com clear pop bumper w/ @sleal16's UFO.
I loved the clear pop idea, but already had Gov's "flying" UFO which I preferred because of the light-up tractor beam. (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1362-gov-s-mods/05578-godzilla-ufo-pop-bumper-mod)
Very pleased with the combined effect. Thanks Zitt & @gov!
IMG_4568 (resized).jpeg 1 week later
Quoted from prentice:Edit: pulling rod off my DP also shows no plastic sleeve. Weird that when I look up the stern shooter assembly for purchase it mentions a sleeve.
No plastic sleeves on sheen shooter rods for many years AFAIK. Here’s the Godzilla manual…
83D526F7-C9AC-4B3B-8681-92086DFFE0B0 (resized).jpegQuoted from purbeast:Which lit flipper buttons are you all getting?
I spent way too much time looking at and trying lit flipper buttons...
- Comet - They are priced right (cheap), but I don't love the way they get power. You replace your coin slot bulbs with their matrix system (which is not a bad thing overall), but then run a LONG (but not quite long enough) wire to both flipper buttons. They are bright in a dark room, but dim in a room with the lights on.
- Pinball Life BriteButtons - These are the winner for me. They are MUCH brighter than the Comet kit due to the ring of LEDs. They are bright in a well lit room. They get power by connecting one of the boards in the front of the cabinet (I think it is the ticket dispenser connector) and it is a much cleaner install. You need to pick a color, though...they're not color changing.
- CoinTaker - I tried to buy these but they're on backorder (and they still are). Their site doesn't tell you that until you try and check out though.
Quoted from purbeast:Just wanted to update you on this as I contacted Melissa at Cointaker about the availability.
She said it was an error and they did in fact have them in stock and she would fix it on the site shortly.
A bit afterwards she emailed me and said they were no longer marked as backordered on the website.
I just placed my order for them today so I will report back with how they are once I have them installed. Since I have the Brite ones on my JP I will be able to do a direct comparison.
Thanks! Keep us posted.
Quoted from Apollo18:would you please share a picture ?
This post has everything you need to know
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/128#post-6714220
1 week later
Quoted from JayLar:After a whole lot of played games I can now confirm that the solution above solved my problems with the building VUK-trough not detecting the ball. VERY happy to play the game without issues. First game after the fix resulted in 777 million points, which was a huge step up. What an absolutely awesome pinball machine - pretty close to perfect IMO!
Glad you got it solved!
FWIW, when it was mentioned on the Pinball Show, Elwin told Dennis to tape a business card over the lip that connects the subway to the VUK...that seemed to also solve the problem. Although your solution seems better than Keith's!
1 week later
How do you use your ball-save time? Especially with one of the tougher skill shots, you can get a pretty gracious ball save?
I usually use it to hit the saucer a few times to work toward the extra ball there. Any better approaches?
1 week later
Quoted from jackd104:I’m glad to hear that random guy with an east coast accent (is it NY or Philly?) seems to have a reduced role in callouts in v1.0. I guess he’s supposed to be the American guy from the Xiliens movie but, even so, I never understood the rhyme or reason to why he has certain call outs vs. the reporter guy. At first I was wondering why Danny DeVito was in my Godzilla game.
Damn...haven't played many games on 1.0 yet but I don't think I heard a "shoot the wamps!" Is it gone?
Flipside...damn I love the "we're going back in time to ball 1"
Quoted from Tomass:So when does it say "shoot the wamps"? I have never heard this call out.
It's "ramps" but said with a heavy/thick/fake NY accent.
I usually hear it right near the start when I haven't hit either ramp yet (kaiju battle not lit)
Quoted from Tomass:Oh. Everyone keeps saying wamps and I was confused
Oh wow…it gets better
The old “shoot the ramps” is definitely there but I just heard a new one in 1.0 and it is amazing…
“Shoot the…um…wamps”
Like he’s actually saying “wamps” in response to all the comments. Hahaha
Quoted from flynnibus:Anyone having problems with the building vuk not registering after the latest update?
Ours is very intermittently not registering the ball in the vuk so waits till ball search and game gets kinda funky afterwards.
You can feed it manually 20 times in a row during switch test without issue - but still every few games in real play it fails after making the lock shot through the building and relies on the ball search.
Behavior is new this week. Nothing looks odd about the optos and tests fine during switch test.
On the pinball show, they mentioned that Keith said this is fixed by putting a small bit of business card / fish paper / etc to bridge the gap where the subway connects to the vuk.
Quoted from sidesmack40:Ever since the new update my game has been auto plunging without me pushing the button and giving me a loop credit. Also gives me other random loop credits as I play. Anyone have this problem? Opto? How can I fix this?
Start by going into switch test. See if any switches are closing that you wouldn’t expect.
(Unlikely related to code update. Probably just a coincidence)
Quoted from petersonjandrew:Hello all! Had my premium for a month now and I'm getting more and more balls stuck under the Drake building or "vertical upkicking skyway ramp". The ball is found 99% of the time on the 1st auto ball search and kicks it up to the roof, but it's becoming routine. Hopefully someone can point out where this issues has been addressed from previous posts? Hoping it's common and I can get under the hood and find the culprit. Thanks in advance!
There was a discussion a few posts back. It is likely getting stuck in the gap between the subway and the VUK. As per keith himself, tape a business card across the gap and the issue should be resolved.
3 weeks later
Quoted from pch3727:The scoop and left ramp are the hardest shots for me when I'm intentionally going for them.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:The left ramp still is a tough one for me. The scoop is tough but I seem to be able to get it when I need to, but some days it feels like pure luck me getting that left ramp. And yea the lane was adjusted by the magnet, still is a tough tight shot to get the ball to go all the way. Often even when I get it the ball goes way up the ramp area but just comes back and it's momentum isn't strong enough to make the loop
I felt the same way until I adjusted that left ramp, once that guide rail is nice and snug to the magnet, it shouldn't be too hard.
Post a pic and we can double check if you're adjusted properly.
Quoted from Mrg50:I am having a minor problem with my Godzilla premium. Sometimes, when I shoot the ball into the lock it doesn’t register. The vibrations from the ball search function shake the ball loose and the game tries to upkick the ball to the roof; however, the building is moving as part of the ball search and any ball previously locked is released and goes straight down the middle. If I shake the game (sometimes causing a tilt), the ball will kick up to the roof. Raising the playfield to see where the ball is located when stuck will shake the playfield enough to clear the issue and I can’t see where the hang up is. Any ideas on how to proceed? My playfield angle is currently 6.8 degrees.
Try this...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/303#post-7156594
Quoted from KneeKickLou:I just got the new "Shoot the umm...wamps to light Kaiju battle" callout last night. I laughed so hard I almost drained my ball, great callback to to old code, I do kinda miss that guy though
My new fave. It's also pretty rare...which makes it all the better.
Quoted from SimplePin:This was incredible timing. During Mechagodzilla multiball one ball was coming across the wireform while another ball was entering the inlane. They stopped each other and there they sat. I had to pull the glass. Nudging wouldn't budge the balls loose.
thats pinball-shirt-navy_800x copy (resized).pngQuoted from gamera9:They never bother to reply when I asked. I am willing to pay. I though LEs had a longer warranty. It can't be too expensive. New ones don't cover the magnet.
You can buy it from pinball life. But it will break again unless you do one of the other fixes.
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-godzilla-premiumle-magna-grab-plastic.html?Category_Code=
1 week later
Quoted from mtp78:So I got my game on Halloween and really haven't played it since the diagnostic buttons are broken.
PSA for anyone having issues with the coin door buttons....
As long as you can press the menu button once, you can use the flipper buttons + start button to accomplish the same things
This was able to tide me over until my replacement buttons arrived.
1 week later
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:I noticed it takes about a minute after full power up for all insider connect features to load.
This.
If you're watching the machine as it boots, once IC connects, I believe it shows the "ad" for Insider with the QR code. Once you see that, you can hold in the flipper button or scan your QR code.
Quoted from djsolzs:Thanks I’m likely being impatient - feels like forever to wait when your ready to power and play.
Using Kasa outlet switches w/ Alexa has helped me with this. I tell alexa to turn on the game room and then by the time I get to the basement, it's ready (or close).
Quoted from wywin:That's definitely not the behavior I'm seeing. Has anyone else had a successful "use" of this feature on GZ?
I'm pretty sure I have but it has been a while.
Ball has gotten stuck behind the building. Open coin door. Big nudge/slide to release it. Ball drains. Open Coin Door. Ball returns to shooter lane.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Duster72:Hey guys, I am getting more than half my shots up the left ramp rejected from hitting where these two pieces of metal come together. Is this normal / within tolerance? Has anyone tried to tighten up this gap? I loosened up some 1/4" nuts underneath the building but couldn't seem to get it to move. When I watch people streaming the game they don't seem to have as many rejections as I do.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/170#post-6820254
You likely need to move the metal rail on the left of the magna-grab closed to the magnet.
Loosen the nut underneath the playfield. Move the rail closer to the magna-grab. re-tighten. There's other posts if you need more pics of what to do.
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I'm sure chuckwurt knows about this better than I.
He had a few posts on it a while back...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/327#post-7220498
I'm sure he would have replied already, but pretty sure he's running pincinatti right now
ABE_FLIPS - One of my most common drains in this game is a ball coming off the right flipper, up the left inlane fast enough that it reaches the top and dribbles across to the left outlane. Any particular tips for this? thanks!
Quoted from brian36chambers:I am nervous about solder anything.
I was in your shoes. I bought this to learn on.
https://www.amazon.com/WHDTS-Soldering-Practice-Electronics-Instructions/dp/B0711MHKDZ
It is "board work" which is different (but I imagine most would say harder) and I found it a great way to practice. This particular kit has a video on youtube for how to complete it.
You can also buy some wire to practice on as well.
If you stick with the hobby for a while, it's a skill you'll basically have to learn at some point
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:Sure, do a drop catch.
Great point. Thanks.
I can definitely drop catch but I'm sure I'm not thinking enough about WHEN to do it. More practice to do. Thanks again for the great videos!
Quoted from BrokenChair:How do I destroy the bridge?
just keep hitting the magma ball thing below it ??
1. Get enough switch hits to light the Attack Bridge insert (One good spinner rip should do it)
2. Hit the magna-grab/newton ball to collect
3. Repeat 1&2 until you hear "the bridge has completely collapsed"
4. You'll notice the left or right ramp "bridge out" lamp will be hit. Shoot that ramp
5. You'll start bridge attack multi-ball
Quoted from tedwasright:Thanks. But I have to say that I curse destruction jackpot more than anything else. Just seems like if I try at all the ball drains within 10 seconds. Yes, I have the pitch correct and the ball hangs properly.
Quoted from DaveH:If I'm behind in a game, I won't even shoot for the Destruction Jackpot unless just that one shot would give me the win. I find it to be one of the most likely ways to lose a ball. Your observation is spot on. Within 10 seconds of the shot, I'm very likely to lose the ball. I think it is partly the lighting (hit or miss the shot), and the way it draws your attention.
For the DJ avoiders...a different strategy is to let the ball come down the flipper, shoot to the right of the building and then shoot the DJ shot when it comes back around. You should have enough time to do it, and the loop shot seems easier to hit that way.
Quoted from Arcade:2. Have the purple Megalon lights appear faster after making a successful shot. So many times (every time), after making a shot, and the ball is coming back to my flippers, I have nowhere to shoot because the next shot takes so crazy long to light up.
I agree with this not only for megalon, but most modes....I love the "you did it!" lightshows, but it can be difficult to plan your next shot. I notice this more in GZ than other games...
1 week later
Installing my speakerlightkits.com flaming speaker frames... where does the power cable plug into? Instructions for that model were a bit vague but others said to plug into the dollar bill validator plug. Is that the right answer?
Thanks
Quoted from DugFreez:I honestly do not know how it could be made clearer. I am open to suggestions.
http://www.speakerlightkits.com/High-Power-Connection-North-America-(3).html
Thanks for the link. It's clear now, but happy to give some suggestions.
To make it more clear, I would suggest adding it to the flamin' frames instruction manual. The manual only says "plug the AC power from the power transformer connection on the game. If you had a link to the page you just posted in the manual, it would be much more clear.
Screen Shot 2022-12-21 at 6.52.10 AM (resized).png
Prior to reaching out I also checked your site, but couldn't find the link that you just posted. If the link you posted was next to the "Power connection on
SPIKE 1 System games" I would have found it
Starting to get ball searches after the ball is sent up to the top of the building. Usually a few coils fire and then it finds the ball but occasionally the building needs to go up and down to release all locked balls.
Any suggestions for troubleshooting this one? Flaky opto somewhere?
Quoted from reynolds531:I am having the same problem.
Me too. Started happening in the last week or so. Possibly related to the latest code?
Quoted from beefzap:My left ramp sometimes rejects the ball. I assume I just need to adjust the wire form?
Yes…loosen the nut underneath and move the right rail of the ramp closer to the magnet.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/170#post-6820254
Quoted from troon47:I'm having an ongoing problem with the building on my LE. When a ball goes up on top, a new one isn't served up to plunge...have to wait from 1/2 to a full minute (with the timer running down) and then it does a ball search....building collapses, and you lose the ball or balls you had up there. It does it with 1 ,2 , or all 3 balls. Anyone else experience this? Thanks.
You are the 4th person to mention this issue recently...
you, me, @atg1469, and reynolds531
Are you running the latest code and did it start after that update?
Quoted from awesome1:If the ball goes to the top of the building, but then is lost and a ball search starts... most likely the "Exit Opto" at the top rear, leading to the building roof. The wire lead broke on mine and this is what happened. Only had to replace the broken half, but did need a new switch.
Very helpful. Thank you. Was it happening every time for you? Mine is very intermittent...approximately 1 out of every 10 games.
Quoted from PinballZach:When playing the other night I stole player two's MB, the building released all the balls and counted them as a ball drain and gave me my bonus.
That's definitely the game losing track of how many balls are on the roof. Game should raise the building when a player locks fewer than the number of the balls already locked by another player.
This would seem to be a smoking gun that it is a code issue. If it was an opto issue, the game would have gone into ball search when it tried to lock the ball for the first player...right?
Also...I don't recall seeing this issue posted here earlier than a few weeks ago, around the time of the latest code release...
Quoted from awesome1:If the ball goes to the top of the building, but then is lost and a ball search starts... most likely the "Exit Opto" at the top rear, leading to the building roof. The wire lead broke on mine and this is what happened. Only had to replace the broken half, but did need a new switch.
FIXED. Thanks for this tip.
For me, the wire lead wasn't broken, but the opto transmitter did need to be adjusted.
For the others having this issue, these steps may help with troubleshooting...
- Is your exit opto LED on? It should be on all the time unless a boy is rolling to the roof. You can see the LED with the naked eye.
IMG_0811 (resized).jpeg
If it's not on all the time...
- Go into the menu and lower the building so you can send balls up to the roof (diagnostics -> game -> building)
- Go into switch test
- Roll a ball through the building into the VUK. See if you are getting the "exit opto" switch triggered. For me, it was only triggering ~25% of the time.
- Accessing the opto is a bit of pain... Remove the two metal wireforms (2 screws each) and remove the center building (3 screws)
- It should look like this:
IMG_0810 (resized).jpeg
- Check for broken wires. See if you can adjust (wiggle) the transmitter or receiver so that the LED is on constantly.
- You can unscrew the opto a bit to adjust or remove it altogether as necessary. Note: The left building is easy to take off, but a bit of a pain to put back on. Avoid taking it off if possible.
Good luck!
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Have you tried the business card fix, I don’t know how to describe it better but I heard about it on the pinball show I think. Basically the ball was sitting on the little gap between the building and vuk and wouldn’t fully register that it was in the building or something to that effect.
Someone with a prem might be able to describe it better
This was my thinking, too. You summed it up well. Some have had issues where the ball was getting stuck omn the ridge/gap between the mini subway and the vuk. Keith's suggested fix was a business card in the trough/subway. Others have tightened the vuk to the subway.
Quoted from purbeast:I have definitely noticed that recently in my game, the VUK isn't shooting the ball up to the top of the building as hard as it used to, and I'd say like 25-50 percent of the time, it has to "shoot" it twice, as the first time, it doesn't make it up there. I never looked into it but is this a common issue that is easily fixable? It's not really a big deal or anything though.
There is an adjustment to change the power of the VUK. BUT...stronger (higher number) is not necessarily better as it may cause the ball to shoot up too hard and come right back down. So change the number up and down and see what works best. I always try for at least 10 perfect executions in a row when I'm adjusting settings like this...
Quoted from purbeast:I may try just upping it one and playing a game and see what happens.
Do you know what the setting name is by any chance? I will mess with it this evening.
EDIT:
Or maybe I have to turn it down? Is there any way to tell if it's being shot up too hard or too weak?
There's no good way to know if it is too strong or too weak, but most people seem to find that turning it DOWN helps more than up.
You can change it and play a game, but given that the issue is intermittent, it's usually not a great test. A better test is to test it in switch test mode.
1. Go into the menus
2. Adjustments -> game specific -> building vuk power - > lower it by 20
3. Diagnostics -> game -> building -> lower the building so it is in the position to lock balls
4. Diagnostics -> switch test -> roll a ball through the building and see if it succeeds on the first try. Do that 10 times and count how many times it succeeds and how many it fails. If it is 10/10...stop there. If it is less than that, go back to step 2 and raise the power by 40 (20 more than what it was originally) and roll the ball through 10 more times. See if more or less is better. You can then go higher or lower from there.
(those menu names are approximate but should get you there. if you can't find it based on that, let me know and I can give exact names when I'm in front of the game)
1 week later
Quoted from Scotty_K:I think you need to install more than one washer for this fix to be effective. Put another one in and see where the bridge stops. If necessary, add more. I had to put 4 of them in mine; works like a charm.
Same here. I think I added 3 to get the right amount of travel (or lack thereof).
Quoted from Bohdi:Got to Monster Zero for the 1st time last night. Must admit, not sure how I got there.
During Godzilla multiball, you hit at least one lit shot three times. This lit the building for a super jackpot. You hit that, too.
Then, you earned enough godzilla power-ups to get to Level 4. You chose Light Monster Zero as your reward (it was probably the only option).
Then, you shot through the building again.
Simple 
Such a fun mode. Congrats!
1 week later
Quoted from purbeast:Do I have to take the plastic off of the slingshot and adjust from the top? Or is it recommended to do it from below? Or is there no "better" way to do it?
Since I've never done it before I just want to be sure I do it right to close the gaps a bit.
Easy adjustment. Check this video:
Quoted from Mtkst19:After updates found out I got a bad opto. Ironically it worked on 1st game as multiball worked but not after update.
The update almost certainly has nothing to do with your building opto issue.
I’ve had trouble with that opto and others have, too. If that opto worked once, it will probably work again.
This post has some tips: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/364#post-7340730
Quoted from mjmpin:tonight an issue popped up - its a bit intermittent, and odd - occasionally when locking balls in the building for Godzilla Multiball, it will not register the 3rd ball??
There is an opto at the top of the building before the ball goes down the ramp. It has been problematic for a few of us.
This post has instructions on how to fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/364#post-7340730
Quoted from mjmpin:Thanks, that is helpful, I will use that tonight and troubleshoot. It is strange though that if its a wire or alignment issue that it will only fail on the 3rd ball every time ??
My issue was intermittent. Sometimes after ball 1, sometimes after ball 2. If yours is always third ball and every time...it could be something else.
I would start by going into switch test and testing that exit opto. Does it work 25 times in a row?
Quoted from mjmpin:thanks, can you share a bit how the switch test works - I thought it was simple like light tests
but I am not sure what I am looking at or looking for on the display
and there are two different switch test menu items on the spike 2 - one of them I can't even get to switch 63
sorry to bother, but sounds like you have done this, I've never tested a switch from software
Sure...it is one of the most often used and helpful tools you can use to diagnose issues. It lets you see if one specific part of the game is working without the complexity of all the other stuff going on that happens when you play a game.
To test the opto exit switch, first you need to lower the building. You do that with the menus, but I'm not in front of my machine so I can't spell out the steps. Let me know if you have trouble with that part.
Then, you need to test the switch.
This document is quite good: https://www.gameroomguys.com/grg-site/how-to-docs/How-to-Pinball-Switch-Test.pdf
Once you get to step 5, close the coin door.
On step 7, it says to "press the lockdown switch." Do that so you can see how the switch test works.
Then, take a ball, roll it under the building into the VUK. The VUK will kick it up and then the ball will roll past the exit opto. You should see that on the screen. Do that a lot of times (~25) and see if it registers 100% of the time. If it is anything less than 100% of the time, you have an issue with that opto.
Let us know how it goes...
Quoted from KneeKickLou:Does Stern not send out email about code releases anymore? I used to get them the day code dropped but haven't for the last couple releases.
I stopped receiving them as well...found them in spam. Looks like stern stopped authenticating their emails.
Screen Shot 2023-02-09 at 3.05.18 PM (resized).png 2 weeks later
Quoted from JBtheAVguy:Who is Automated?
Automated Services in CT. pinballs.com
Just had a right outlane drain on ball three and it was game over rather than the oxygen destroyer countdown.
Bug or are there situations where the oxygen destroyer isn't activated?
(it was a pretty quick 1-2 drain during a multiball)
Quoted from Spiderpin:Both Left outlane (Mothra save) and Right outlane (oxygen destroyer) light up with playfield light show. Sometime it will make you think it lit, IMO it should be fixed in code not to light up at all, unless you actually have lit it.
I thought oxygen destroyer was ALWAYS lit on ball 3. Is that not the case? If so, what do you need to do to light it?
Quoted from flipright:Just received my Godzilla Premium and having a blast! I'm having a small issue where the coin door lockout switch is not fully engaging when the door is closed and locked. If I put slight pressure on the door near where it contacts the switch it's able to fully engage and 48v power is restored allowing the game to be played. Has anyone seen this before?
I was considering putting one of those clear rubber sticky dots on the coin door bracket so it applies more pressure on the switch.
The sticky dot would probably be fine, but if it was me, I would bend the metal piece on the coin door slightly so it makes better contact. Seems like a more permanent fix.
Use pliers and wrap a thin towel/microfiber over the metal piece if you don't want to scratch it.
Quoted from redman822:The leaves wouldn't make contact, had to bend them slightly...
Quoted from flipright:when I get brave enough I'll try bending it a bit.
bending...a common occurrence in pinball ownership
Quoted from Pugster:My right habitrail has a “bounce” to it when the ball hits the inlane exit. The left side drops in perfectly, the right side hits the end, bounces back and then drops down the hole. Kills flow a bit.
Any suggestions on how/where to bend or put pressure on the habitrail to smoothen it out? I’ll start screwing around with it but thought better to check here first as last time I thought I had it beat but it appears the problem has returned.
In the past, when I have had habitrail issues, it is usually because I have adjusted the rail in one place (at one screw). Eventually, the one screw loosens enough that the fix is undone. Instead, I have had success adjusting the rail at every location for the fix to hold.
On other games, I have removed the rail entirely and bent a bit as needed.
Quoted from tedwasright:I swear on all that is holy in this world that every time my DJ attempt goes halfway up the right ramp and drains I could smash the glass with my forehead.
Another approach is to not shoot it when it drops.
Let the ball come back to the bottom flippers. Shoot the center spinner and then shoot the DJ shot. My accuracy is WAY better with this approach and there's enough time to do it (you even get a short grace period after the DJ insert turns off).
Quoted from AMartin56:Can you disable the Premium features like the building and Mecha Godzilla target bank rotation?
And if so how does the game compensate? For example will it lock balls on the magnet prior to multiball like on a Pro if the building is turned off?
I played a premium on location where the building movement was turned off. I believe you can turn off the mecha rotation as well. Not sure how the game handles it, though.
Quoted from Nokoro:I printed and installed my own AbeFlips shooter lane fix, and now I have perfectly consistent plunges. The only problem is that I almost always hit the left spinner skill shot. So, now it is less of a skill shot and more of an every time shot.
But how often do you get the super skill shot from spinner direct to scoop?
Can also go for the different skill shots…pop bumper, left inlane, etc. you get additional multipliers for variety.
Quoted from Nokoro:Do you only get a multiplier for a unique skill shot?
The rules below will do it more justice than I can, but in general, the more unique shots you have hit, the more the next unique shot is worth.
Snag_b51ad1d (resized).png 1 week later
Quoted from math08:I have a question on the bridge hitting plastic fix. Do the washers go into the hole so in effect the stop that is already there is longer or do they go over the stop so there is a space between the coil and the metal bracket?
This post has the details and pictures.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/128#post-6714220
Start with one washer and move the bridge by hand to see if it hits the plastic. If it still hits, add one more and try again. You want the sweet spot between it not hitting the plastic but still allowing a ball to fall through the bridge when it is open/broken.
Quoted from Caponicus:I got the Chrome Candy shooter lane fix because it’s metal and I prefer the look. It works great.
EDIT: SOLD
If anyone wants the chrome candy version, I have one I'm not using. $10 shipped in the US (50% off). PM me. Just supply your own double sided tape.
Quoted from JvdS:I was looking for a post where the left ramp is discussed. But found nothing helpful….
I’m surely I.m not the only one that has problems with the left ramp? Can I somehow improve it….looks like a design flaw…?
This key post has what you need.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/170#post-6820254
If it looks like the before picture, loosen from underneath, move in and re-tighten. If it already looks like the after picture… play better
It’s (meant to be) a harder shot than the right but once you get the feel of it, it is make-able and repeatable.
1 week later
Quoted from chuckwurt:Got a big carnage bonus today!
That is amazing! Can you give a quick strategy recap on your approach?
1 week later
Quoted from DugFreez:There shouldn't be any issues with having that model speaker and a SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kit (if it is one of my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits). There have never been any reported fit issues with any 5.25" speakers not working with any of my SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits.
I can confirm. I have those speakers and Doug's kit and didn't have any issues.
Quoted from ShineSpark:I just got the Freddy's skillshot optimizer but it came with no hardware or installation instructions other than the piece itself. I'm presuming I mount it using the hardware from the bubble level? Any quick thoughts? I'm probably just going to go for it but if anyone has any advice.
Yes. VERY easy install.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yeah. Definitely don’t get mods thinking you’re gonna increase your game’s value. Just get what you like and let the chips fall where they may when you sell.
Completely agree. If you are trying to recoup, the best way it to take it off a sell the mod separate from the machine.
For example, if you took a stumblor neon sign off your pin now, you would probably get very close to 100% of what you paid so someone can avoid the wait…
Of course, then you have the hassle of taking the mod off…
Quoted from AMartin56:But how does the building know what floor it is on?
I'm used to motorized playfields like Dr Who's using opto interrupters etc. to determine its location. But I don't see anything similar in the Godzilla manual.
After my incident earlier today with it seeming to be stuck I moved the belt manually to make sure everything was moving freely and that seemed to confuse the hell out of it. It wouldn't move at all in the building test until I moved it back to the grown floor (or near enough).
I believe the stepper motor is accurate enough that it knows how many rotations it has made. This also allows for the precise calibration options rather than my old DE Jurassic Park where the "calibration" was bending the arms on micro switches 
I went very simple on the shooter rod, but looks great (and much better than the stock black).
https://www.pinballlife.com/ball-shooter-plunger-rod-green-translucent-knob.html
1 week later
Quoted from allsportdvd:It’s here on the rule sheet
Pinball uses the word "spot" (as in "I'll spot you 5 points" in a game - I'll give you 5 points for free)...but as the rules show "collect" is much clearer word!
Quoted from Baggerman:so heat ray is a nuke for playfield that grabs all lit shots? Sweet.
Yes, exactly.
There's also the "building exit shot" to the left of the building that will collect (spot) the ONE left most lit shot on the playfield.
Quoted from impact1875:My premium started having a problem with (lock is lit, get to the roof) balls not registering. Did a test and discovered VUK Exit Opto switch 64 is not working. I removed the building cover (3 screws) and the Opto receiver board is not lit red like the other Opto switches. I am thinking either it is not getting power or its bad. What is the procedure for testing? Thanks in advance!
That switch has been problematic for me and at least a few others. The wires make sharp bends under the opto board to the solder points and I think it causes them to behave intermittently. Someone else had a bad solder joint from the opto to the board.
The fix is to take it out and inspect and see if anything needs to be fixed/resoldered. After my second round of repairs, I just bought the replacement from pinball life and haven't had a problem since. ::knocks on wood::
2 weeks later
Quoted from ktm450:Just don’t forget to shorten the skirt actuator a little like in this post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/249#post-7016959
You're better off just adjusting the switch rather than permanently changing the pop bumper. No need to file it down.
Quoted from gizmo33:I have a problem since today, on my GZ Pro, the ball is no longer detected when it crosses the building in the middle?
Do you know how to check or test what no longer works ?
Go into switch test and check the opto sensors. Lots of issues with them in the building and at the top of the building.
You can try reseating the connector for the opto, but they seem to have a habit of failing.
Quoted from TheBananaPeel69:I like how on pinside there are bookmarked topics, but I wish there was a sub-forum for each machine, then there could be stickied topics like the one I'm about to ask.
Ask and ye shall receive. You're looking for "key posts" at the top of the page. Click "show topic index" to see it.
Quoted from blueberryjohnson:And if you get the mod from Sonic that replaces the gate with like a magnetized sensor, you don't have to worry about missing made shots (probably have only had 2-3 not register for me after many plays since getting it).
Quoted from vikingerik:It doesn't. For the skill shot on the plunge you have to trip the gate, not the spinner. And yes it's pretty easy for the ball to sneak between the flipper and the gate without tripping it. (If this happens, at least the pop bumper skill shot is still available very briefly.) You just got better at hitting the gate.
You really don't need either of these things. The screenshot below references Imposter, but when they made this change, it affected the skill shot, too. The gate OR the spinner will score the skillshot. Test it with your finger if you don't believe it.
BUT... you probably need to adjust your spinner so that ball can't sneak through without it triggering the switch.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/197#post-6883887
Since I made the change chuckwurt recommended, I have never had a made skillshot that didn't register.
Screenshot 2023-05-18 at 3.36.42 PM (resized).pngQuoted from tedwasright:I have to say that the pen-spring idea is good, though I'm too lazy to do it. I don't know if it works, but when I miss the imposter battle because of the prostitute-sized gap, I frown but move on. NBD.
Just adjust the switch on the spinner so that even a slow rolling ball registers. No pen spring or frown required.
The gate AND the spinner both count for the award.
Quoted from teppinball:But wait, that’s not all! For the first time in topper history (at least we think it is?!) we will also be offering an add-on component called “The Conqueror Upgrade”.This easy to add expansion will mount directly onto your existing topper and allow owners of BOTH models to update their GZ toppers with a full 3D alien console!
So you're saying your topper has an available topper?
Quoted from jurulz:Trailer is out!! https://fb.watch/kRKTuwvZc-/
At least it doesn't say the name of the game...just above the name of the game
3 weeks later
For sale: Stumblor's discontinued interactive "Backbox Zilla Breath" mod. When you hit the magna grab (or switch of your choosing), the breath lights up. As with all of Stumblor's mods, the quality is great and the included controller board is extremely customizable.
$200 OBO incl. continental US shipping. After currency conversion and shipping, this is basically "retail" price.
The mod was installed briefly in my game and works perfectly.
Pic & video from Stumblor...
1 week later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:My only gripe so far is that the topper has a huge dark spot on the right. Why didnt they light that building with fire?
I have the same gripe. Also the fact that when you stand on the right of the machine, you see the naked fire LEDs (not through the building).
Minor nits though. It really looks great.
1 week later
Quoted from TheGunnett:My topper arrived and I changed out the figure. Nothing permanent but I think I’ll keep it this way.
Looks great and it solves one of my gripes with the topper - that the building on the right doesn't light up.
What figure is it?
Quoted from TheGunnett:I painted the 1954 Godzilla available at Target. Then I used an angle grinder to cut his legs off and notched a cut out in his tail to allow the angle needed.
Nice work. thanks for the details.
Quoted from psychoticmark:I noticed I wasn’t getting the building multiball lately and then I got this switch #64 vuk exit opto switch alert. Is this the cause and how would I fix this? Sorry I don’t know too much about testing these.
Quoted from hawkfanz:Dumb question… my machine is saying the exit vuk opto (64) isn’t working and my building isn’t moving at all even in the stepper tests. Are these related issues or two separate issues? I’ve seen a few other people mention this but haven’t found what they did to fix.
Quoted from psychoticmark:I have the same problem. I never get building multiball. I have a guy coming this week to see if he can fix it. I can let you know
Quoted from Salami_Inferno:is this common?
Yes, common. And fixable.
This post shows how to test and how to POSSIBLY fix it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/364#post-7340730
But, most likely you all need new optos for one side of the pair. If you're within warranty, Stern will send you new ones. If you're out off warranty, you can buy them from pinball life or Marco.
4 weeks later
Quoted from CapeCodPin:Last newbie request (for tonight) what is the prevailing thought on plastic shooter lane protectors like the one at Mezel's or Cliffy's? I want to protect my first new pin as much as possible.
I've been happy with these. But...just know that you will probably have to adjust (bend) the shooter lane switch. It is not a big deal, but since you're a newbie, just something good to know in advance....
Quoted from ZoraShinoda:I had one of the other ones, it worked ok. Ordered the one from Freddy, got it 2 weeks ago, works 100% now for me
Same experience. MUCH better than other options.
Quoted from freddy:It’s a shooter lane fix. Stops ball from rattling through the lane, which can cause a missed skill shot or interfere with the skill shot you’re trying for. In other words it give a clean plunge.
...and the most points for the skillshot you can get is for a ball that goes behind the upper flipper and then from the left flipper, one-time it into the scoop. Lots of points there. Very, very hard to do if you're not getting a consistent plunge.
Quoted from Mully911:OK I went through every menu on the game that I could find and every setting for each menu but I was not able to find anywhere where I could get an extra ball instead of a replay.
Good info in what awesome1 sent. Just note that the #3 (Replay Award) is when you pass a score threshold (set in the subsequent adjustments), but you CAN'T change it so that you get an extra ball instead of a credit for getting the MATCH. The game is already over at that point.
2 weeks later
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:Yup... that's the tech alert so I will definitely see if sensitivity is the issue for why it's throwing a tech alert for this.
The trick is to adjust the arm so that with even the slowest ball rolling through, you hear the "click" of the microswitch being triggered. Be sure to test it with the ball, not your hand.
1 week later
Playing last night and I noticed that the building on the backboard that feeds the moving building had fallen off the backboard. It is secured with three screws and one of them is now missing.
Looking for ideas on where it could possibly be hiding...
...or where I can get another one of these screws in the US (part #237-5500-01)
https://www.stern-spareparts.de/en/stern-pinball-flipper-6-32-x-1-4-pph-ms-no-sems-237-5500-01_42400_14168
Quoted from DudeRegular:Just go grab some screws at home depot man. That is a basic #6 screw with 1/4" length.
I was hoping you would say that. Thanks.
1 week later
Quoted from Trekkie1978:Plastic on top of the magnet is the only thing I can think of.
Some machines don't have the cabinet aligners. Not sure if the very early machines had them, but mine from July 2022 didn't so I added them. They're pretty important on this game due to the many skillshots.
Quoted from Moeman65:I love my GZ, the only complaint I have is where Stern put the power switch. Why not down under the cabinet where it is more accessible?
Because it is cheaper to have it in the head where the power supply is.
Quoted from kool1:Highly recommend these for all your pins. . problem solved.
https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Required-Certified-EP10P2/dp/B091FXQQMQ/
Completely agree. And then turn on all your pins with one Alexa command. "Turn on the arcade" "insert coin" "Game on" etc.
Quoted from Green-Machine:I found my JP clunky …… never could get it dialed in. GZ was easily dialed in for me.
JP definitely requires more work to get it playing well...and the shots are much less forgiving than GZ.
If you want to get JP playing well...
- Carbon fiber cliffy on tower ramp/halfpipe
- Carbon fiber cliffy on helipad ramp/halfpipe
- Mylar on T-Rex ramp
- Opto fix on T-rex ramp
- Opto fix on "O" shot
Yes, all this is ridiculous to have to do, but once you do it, it shoots very well. For me, it has more of a "one more game" itch to scratch than GZ.
Quoted from trueno92:Not 100% necessary? I can combo 4 ramps all day without any cliffys and i found mylar infront of the ramps just makes those ramps much easier.
Definitely not 100% necessary, but if people are saying that the game is "clunky," this removes some of that clunk
GZ is much more forgiving of a game. The tweaks I mentioned make JP a little more forgiving...but nowhere near as easy as JP. All the mylar in the world won't make that O shot wider!
1 week later
Quoted from jrcmlc:Can someone confirm that this is the right part # for the coil stops on spike 2 Sterns?
515-6308-01
Correct. Page 43 in the manual - https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Godzilla_LE_Pre_web.pdf
Quoted from Mully911:Does anyone know of a document that explains how to navigate and perform troubleshooting using the menu system in Godzilla?
This video should do it. It is from an older Stern game, but they haven't changed the menu system in many years.
Quoted from hweaveresq:Already did. Set to two warnings but when this happens there is no warning just the tilt. Only happens occasionally on multiballs.
My hunch is that if you're not getting warnings, it is a slam tilt, not a regular (tilt bob) tilt.
Do you have a shaker motor installed? If yes, check this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-spike-shaker-motor-advisory-for-mystery-slam-tilt
Quoted from Moeman65:Are you sure that it's not the Oxygen Destroyer being deployed?
OP can comment, but there's no oxygen destroyer during multiball.
1 week later
Quoted from Scala:The rgb light for the left ramp arrow stopped working on me. All the other lights are working fine.
Could someone point me in the right direction for what I need to do to fix it? This is the first repair I've needed to make on a pinball machine.
Unfortunately, that LED is on a light board so it is a little harder to diagnose and possibly fix.
First, try reseating (removing and reinserting) each connector on that board (pic below). If that fixes it, great.
If that doesn't fix it, I would suggest contacting your distributor and telling them you need a new board - 520-8536-00. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like a readily available part that you can order on line. These boards have "surface mount" components which means they're not really repairable unless you have access to someone that is very skilled in board repairs.
IMG_2744 (resized).jpegScreenshot 2023-10-27 at 2.35.41 PM (resized).pngQuoted from Mully911:Any one know what type of LED this is? What voltage, is it available in green? Is this the one that flashes when Oxygen destroyer is active?
The left outlane is the mothra ball save, not the oxygen destroyer (pic below). I don't think you would want it in green...
Regardless, I don't think stern makes single-colored LED boards. They either use white or RGB/multi-color computer controlled.
IMG_2746 (resized).jpegQuoted from BrokenChair:Can someone explain to me how Tesla strike works? So the Tesla targets will rotate and you have to hit the one lit to count for Tesla strike to start via center spinner ?
TiltForums is great for any rule questions: http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210#heading--power
"To activate Tesla Strike, all 3 Powerline targets must be completed twice (+1 per activation). This will start Powerline Attack and cause a single Powerline target insert to rove between targets. Shoot the flashing target 5 times +2 per activation for 500,000 points each, with the final shot starting Tesla Strike.
Tesla Strike is an untimed mode that revolves around shooting the center spinner to light the major shots. Shoot the center spinner to increase the Tesla Value, which starts at 2M (+2M per Tesla Strike started), by 100K points per spin. Then, shoot any of the blue flashing shots to collect the Tesla Value. The amount the spinner builds the Tesla Value also increases by 100k per spin after each Tesla Value collect; however, only one rip of the center spinner is allowed before you must collect a unique blue shot to relight it. Repeat this process 5 times, making 5 unique shots, to win the mode.
After Tesla Strike ends, Power Annihilation Bonus lights for a base of 2% of the points scored during the mode. This can be collected at the strobing Powerline target, which moves from left to right with each collect."
Quoted from BrokenChair:Also I’m having big issues hitting that Tesla target by the right ramp it’s only hitable via upper left flipper right? Any tips on getting better at this shop I’ll either hit the loops or go halfway up the right ramp …
I typically shoot the spinner and then hit it from the upper flipper.
Quoted from BrokenChair:Do you actively go for Tesla or just play the game and if it happens It happens ?
I don't seek it out for points, but will actively go for it if I'm trying to get the shortcut to PlanetX. That said, it usually just ends up starting without me focusing on it.
1 week later
Quoted from Mattyk:Was hoping for a co op mode and maybe a final wizard mode selection at start up. Kind of like escape nublar in JP
When the topper came out, Keith was on a podcast and specifically said that the topper mode wouldn't come to non-topper machines, but there would be different "challenge" mode coming at some point.
I'm having some trouble getting up the right ramp reliably. Seems like it could be due to the coil getting hot as it seems to get worse later in the game...but I'm seeing it even after 15 minutes which seems quite short...
I'd appreciate some data from others...
- I replaced the coil stops with Pinball Life when I got the game. How many plays are you typically getting out of these stops?
- What do you have your left flipper power set at?
thanks!
1 week later
Quoted from schudel5:Anyone notice that the skill switch actuator above the upper left flipper is too short? I've had skill shot balls go between the top of the flipper and bottom of the actuator hanging down. So it was a good skill shot but it didn't register.
I might have to come up with a different wire bending solution with a piece that extends further towards the flipper.
You don't need to do that. Recent code (like last 9 months) counts the skillshot via that switch OR the spinner. So just adjust your spinner switch to ensure that even a slow moving ball that doesn't cause a full rotation of the spinner causes the switch to register. Since I made that change months ago I haven't had a single skill shot that went through the lane and didn't register.
Quoted from Brombomb:I do not. I keep going back and forth on one. I want it to play "like a location", but it annoys me missing the shot on my home machine.
You should never have a missed skillshot, even without the MRS switch. Just adjust the spinner switch under the playfield so that even a slow moving ball triggers the switch. Let me know if you need help or more details.
Quoted from Brombomb:I thought in order to get the skill shot you need to hit both the gate and the spinner. If you miss the gate by going just over the flipper, then you don't get credit. The MRS is longer is my understanding to fully cover this gap.
chuckwurt is correct. Either will collect the skill shot. No MRS required.
Quoted from Junglist:I just had the right inlane rollover (magna grab trigger) switch die and I've probably only got less than 500 games on this. Is that typical? Or am I just unlucky. :S Any tips on install? Looks pretty straightforward.
Definitely early, but these things can happen. Before you replace, I would unscrew it from under the playfield and try and "work" the switch a bit. Sometimes they just get a bit stuck. You should hear a light click.
If you do need to replace it, it is an easy solder job.
Quoted from barndawg:How do you make that adjustment? I couldn't find anything in the menu. Or are you saying you have to adjust via some control on the switch itself?
It is a physical adjustment on the switch itself. Switch adjustment is a normal part of pinball ownership & maintenance, so it's a good (and easy) skill to get comfortable with.
Ideally, order yourself a switch adjustment tool. In a pinch you adjust with needle nose pliers, but it is easier to mess things up without the proper tool.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
1) Go into switch test mode through the menu system. This mode will make a noise and show you on the screen when a switch is activated. This video is old, but it is essentially the same on Godzilla.
2) Spin the spinner with your hand. The machine should make a noise and it should show you on the screen that the spinner was activated.
3) Take a pinball and roll it slowly through the spinner. You will probably notice that you don't hear the sound. This is because with a very slow moving ball, the switch isn't being activated.
4) Take your switch adjustment tool (or needle nose pliers) and bend the metal arm on the switch (do it in the area circled in red below). Bend it just a little. You can always bend it more later if you haven't adjusted it enough on the first try.
5) Take the ball again and slowly roll it through. You should hear the machine make a sound to tell you that the switch is now activating even with a very slow moving ball.
If it still isn't activating, repeat step 4 & 5 until the switch is activating 100% of the time.
IMG_2937 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from bwalter:This happens to me semi-frequently, particularly when I under-plunge a soft plunge attempt. No amount of nudging releases it, and I have to wait for the ball search to spin the mech.
The most common fix for this is to add a silicone cabinet bumper.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/233#post-6988916
Quoted from tscottn:can you share any info on reflowing the solder?
Essentially just touch your soldering iron to the solder pad. Add a little solder if needed.
For those having opto issues, a helpful troubleshooting step is to use your phone's camera. You don't need to take a picture, just turn your camera on and look through your phone.
The pic below is of the top of the building when I had an issue with those optos, but the idea is the same.
If my game had the issue, I would try and remove the optos but keep them connected and then see if I was getting the red status LED (visible with the naked eye) and/or getting seeing the red beam (visible only through the phone)
Pinside_forum_7340730_1 (resized).jpgQuoted from Matsurigatzu:Yes it was when I matched but I don’t hear that loud noise every single time I match but it only appears when I match
In the olden days, pinball machines had a “knocker” in them - a solenoid and a mechanism that struck a plate to indicate a free game was earned.
You earned a free game on the match, but stern machines don’t come with a knocker, so you’re hearing a simulated knocker sound from the speakers. It sounds terrible at the default volume, but if you turn down the knocker volume, it’s not so bad.
1 week later
Quoted from junkyard:i get a tech alert that the shooter lane switch isn’t working. I tested it with a ball and finger, and nothing. Got the play field lifted and can’t get it to register correctly.
Do you hear the switch "click" when you press it down?
Quoted from Tophervette:Once the game powers on, you have to wait a few minutes before attempting to use your Insider connect QR code.
It shouldn't be a few minutes...but there is an easy way to tell.
Once I see the Stern Insider connected screen on the display (with the QR code), I know that it has successfully connected. I'm pretty sure it doesn't show that unless it has successfully connected.
Quoted from zahner:I usually forget to log on until I'm well into the first or second ball - then I remember and log on no problem and it seems to catch any achievements or whatever from the beginning of the game.
Sounds like you're scanning your QR code. Have you tried using Home Team? It's a good feature and implementation.
Quoted from jdjeff:"Shoot.....zuh......ramps....to light Kaiju Battle"
Is it "shoot the..uh...waamps"? That one is definitely intentional.
When the game first came out, there was some humerous "criticism" that the announcer had a bad central casting brooklyn accent. During one of the updates, we got the amazing wamps callout. Possibly my favorite one in the game. Doesn't come on very often...
Quoted from Fezmid:Prioritize the right spinner when you have two balls locked?
Or, choose a different battle when you have two locked. Titanasauraus is my go-to when multiball is almost ready but Megalon isn’t bad either.
Quoted from nickrivers:Do you guys have “Replay awards extra ball” on?
Heck, yes!
Quoted from SteelCurtain333:Do you also have a list of the exact shots to kill each kaiju? Having trouble getting all the megalon shots-would be good to have a list...
Tilt Forums is the best source for rule questions...
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210
Tier 1:
Ebirah
Collect 15 spins from the left and right spinners each, and 40 spins from the center spinner. Each completed spinner scores 5M + 5M per spinner. After completing all three spinners, shoot the pop bumper for the final blow, worth 25M.
Titanosaurus
Shoot five flashing targets - the three powerline targets from left to right, then the Maser Cannon, and lastly, the Magna-Grab captive ball. The first target scores 4M, then 7M, 10M, 15M, and final shot is 20M. Each shot to the Mechagodzilla targets during this battle scores 1M and adds 500K to the next shot.
Gigan
Make eight left or right ramp shots in any combination. Ramp shots award 1M + 500k per shot, and shooting the opposite ramp as a combo scores double (note that looping one ramp does not count as a combo). The final blow, if made as a combo, scores 4x the value (or 2x if it wasn’t made as a combo).
Megalon
A random flashing purple shot will light for about 10 seconds. Hitting the flashing shot before it times out will award 4M + (points per switch hit) + 1x per lit shot, to a max of 5x, and light a new, different flashing shot; 7 shots must be made this way to win the battle. Failing to hit the flashing shot before time expires will allow Megalon to hide; while in hiding, shooting either ramp will return Megalon to fighting mode and light a combo shot to attack him. Timing out Megalon while he is hiding underground will result in him spawning at a random shot. Final blow scores the value of a normal shot + 10M.
Quoted from SteelCurtain333:In the Topper King of the Monsters Mode: Does anyone have the exact shot list to beat the 4 Kajiu? I have done it-but not sure how sometimes. I get stuck trying to get all the Megalon shots-which I can't really tell what those shots are.
It is all the shots from the modes listed above. Megalon is a series of randomly lit shots...but because megalon goes underground, sometimes no shot is lit and you need to wait a few seconds.
3 weeks later
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Still will tilt the ball though to get it out.
it won't tilt if you have the coin door ball save set properly. Open the coin door (playfield lights should dim). Shake the ball free and let it drain. Close the coin door and the ball will autolaunch from the shooter lane.
Quoted from BrokenChair:Sometimes when I hit the left spinner, it will totally reject the shot and the ball will just go backwards and it will not spin. Is it just a part of the game that I have to deal with or is there a problem here? It’s been fine with the glass off with my hand, spinning it…..
It will just hit the spinner, then go back and not fully spin and work correctly. I think it’s just a part of the game, right?
Sounds like your spinner needs to be adjusted. A pic may help in case it isn't sitting properly at rest.
1 week later
Quoted from RussMyers:This is a pic of someone else's game where they did it because I don't feel like flipping my own playfield up at the moment.
They used a much longer piece of thin cardstock than I did, and I just taped it in place.
My card was about the size of the green box I drew.
You are trying to provide a smooth transition so the ball doesn't get stuck.
Don't slide it in so far it interferes with the upkicker plunger.
FWIW, shortly after the game came out, this was mentioned as the fix the Elwin recommended. (via The Pinball Show podcast)
4 weeks later
Quoted from gandamack:99.9 percent certain that this yellow and black wire connects to the upper flipper coil, correct?
Yes - the manual confirms it (pic below).
Quoted from gandamack:Just snip off the plastic and solder back on, correct?
Ideally, you want the wire to go through the metal tab (lug) so that the wire is wrapped around the connection point, not just soldered on. This creates a stronger, longer lasting connection. So, remove the solder that is on the lug, strip the wire back, make a strong connection to the lug and then resolder.
Quoted from gandamack:Is there any need to have 2 cm piece of hard plastic ar the end of the wire?
Yes. This prevents a possible short if the wire was to come in contact with another wire. Right now you have a loose, 48V wire under your playfield. If that didn't have the plastic cover on it, it could touch another wire and cause bad things to happen.
gz uppper (resized).png 3 weeks later
Quoted from CapeCodPin:Something I've only done a few times in my life.
Suuuuuurreeee....
You can also look forward to "king of the restarts."
not that I would know
1 week later
Quoted from Mully911:If I put a Medieval Madness SE next to my Godzilla SE, do you think the shots and play will be too similar to really justify the cost?
They are two very different games. Justifying cost, however, is a different matter altogether
Quoted from tedwasright:THIS is my Godzilla machine's personal quirk. The center spinner literally comes out of a hole. Have NO IDEA how. At least it's a simple fix. Ha.
Tough to tell for sure, but it looks like the left side of the bracket is bent. Bend the bracket down a bit and the distance from left to right will be shorter so it shouldn't pop out.
My game is two years old and this has never happened, so it should def be permanently fixable.
It sounds like there are two issues being conflated here.
Issue one is that sometimes the ball gets stuck in the (short) trough under the playfield and doesn't make it to the VUK. This is fixwed by the washers or the business card fix.
Issue two is that sometimes the ball will get launched by the VUK but not make it to the top of the building. This is usually solved by turning the VUK power down.
If you can hear the ball hit the metal top of the VUK shaft, you probably have the second issue. If the VUK isn't firing, you have issue one.
Quoted from tscottn:sometimes my skill shot through the left upper flipper doesn't register. I noticed today that the ball can fit past the flipper without triggering the switch if it has just the right amount of power. that sucks
It doesn't have to trigger that switch to award the skill shot. That gate OR the spinner will award the skill shot.
You can solve your problem by adjusting the switch on the spinner. Close the gap slightly so that a ball can't get by without triggering the spinner switch.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/197#post-6883887
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