James Bond 007 (Premium)
Stern, 2022
Scooby Doo (Blood Suckers Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
Scooby Doo (Collectors Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2022
Scooby Doo (Standard Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2022Hey, has anyone had trouble with a ball "sometimes" bouncing around inside of the right VUK (under Mystery Machine), unable to get ejected? Mine works well with a ball lock or more than one ball in it, but an early shot before ball lock can bounce around inside of it forever.
Quoted from taz:Hey, has anyone had trouble with a ball "sometimes" bouncing around inside of the right VUK (under Mystery Machine), unable to get ejected? Mine works well with a ball lock or more than one ball in it, but an early shot before ball lock can bounce around inside of it forever.
Mine did that also , it was hitting the edge of one of the optos , I had to take the upper Pf off and move the opto about 1mm
Quoted from ls1chris:Mine did that also , it was hitting the edge of one of the optos , I had to take the upper Pf off and move the opto about 1mm
Thats a lot work done there. Was it tough getting the upper playfield off. Spooky needs to do a how to video.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Thats a lot work done there. Was it tough getting the upper playfield off. Spooky needs to do a how to video.
They have done a very informative video on how to take off the upper pf.
It's a bit of work, and probably best doing it with two people, but they've certainly posted a video.
Quoted from lookyloo:I replaced with Voodoo. I've used PDI in the past, but it just got too pricey. Voodoo looks great. No issues.
I spoke too soon. Noticed a line running down the glass. The apron ball locks light cover is rubbing across the glass when i pull it in and out. I need to see if i can lower the apron or the ball lock assembly.
Quoted from ls1chris:Mine did that also , it was hitting the edge of one of the optos , I had to take the upper Pf off and move the opto about 1mm
mine wasn't the VUK, it was the kickout coil just under the mystery machine, as the ball leaves the coil it would catch the edge of the one opto , the furthest left one on the ball return track.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:They have done a very informative video on how to take off the upper pf.
It's a bit of work, and probably best doing it with two people, but they've certainly posted a video.
There is that video which Spooky can provide and Damonator very kindly and accurately provided a point by point description/how-to (#4475 post) which is now in key posts that is very easy to follow. We’ve tried it. Flawless. Thank you Damonator. We added notes along the way and put tags on certain bundles just to make it a bit easier to put back together. My husband is the technician here..haha..and managed to do it on his own. A second pair of hands might have been useful but I tend to be in the way more than I actually help.
Quoted from jakedistel:There is that video which Spooky can provide and Damonator very kindly and accurately provided a point by point description/how-to (#4475 post) which is now in key posts that is very easy to follow. We’ve tried it. Flawless. Thank you Damonator. We added notes along the way and put tags on certain bundles just to make it a bit easier to put back together. My husband is the technician here..haha..and managed to do it on his own. A second pair of hands might have been useful but I tend to be in the way more than I actually help.
Is this an unlisted video or something? I've not seen a video from Spooky detailing upper pf removal.
Quoted from Jigz:Is this an unlisted video or something? I've not seen a video from Spooky detailing upper pf removal.
I think you can request it from Spooky. Not certain if it is available on here or not. I would certainly recommend Damonator's painstaking direction though as opposed to trying to translate a video while you are doing the work. It's pretty extensive and pretty specific relative to which wires, parts, screws and when.
Just another little improvement I did the other day. I noticed that the flipper buttons were dim compared to the action button on the lock bar. The neopixel ring, used to light the buttons, is pressed directly against the cabinet. Adding a 1/16” clear washer between the cabinet and the LEDs allows them to light the button much better.
I 3D printed a pair of washers out of clear filament, but laser cutting them from 1/16” thick acrylic would work equally well.
Left flipper button has the washer, right flipper button is factory:
SpookyLuke this would be a simple addition on the assembly line.
0107CFB4-5263-4402-A082-AC135F00CEB2 (resized).jpeg1DA5F465-7DB6-459B-8E0A-88B24BE98981 (resized).png
Edit: I'll make these in batches of 10-15 sets (packaging takes more time than I thought. doing them in groups is way better). Just PM me, and I'll respond back as a new batch is ready.
Quoted from TSB_:Just another little improvement I did the other day. I noticed that the flipper buttons were dim compared to the action button on the lock bar. The neopixel ring, used to light the buttons, is pressed directly against the cabinet. Adding a 1/16” clear washer between the cabinet and the LEDs allows them to light the button much better.
I 3D printed a pair of washers out of clear filament, but laser cutting them from 1/16” thick acrylic would work equally well.
Left flipper button has the washer, right flipper button is factory:
SpookyLuke this would be a simple addition on the assembly line. [quoted image][quoted image]
Wow. Huge improvement! Would like to have those for sure. Would buy a set. The flipper buttons are really dim. And with new code for lights they get really dim when your playing plus the action button does.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Wow. Huge improvement! Would like to have those for sure. Would buy a set. The flipper buttons are really dim. And with new code for lights they get really dim when your playing plus the action button does.
Pm me your info.
Quoted from TSB_:Just another little improvement I did the other day. I noticed that the flipper buttons were dim compared to the action button on the lock bar. The neopixel ring, used to light the buttons, is pressed directly against the cabinet. Adding a 1/16” clear washer between the cabinet and the LEDs allows them to light the button much better.
I 3D printed a pair of washers out of clear filament, but laser cutting them from 1/16” thick acrylic would work equally well.
Left flipper button has the washer, right flipper button is factory:
SpookyLuke this would be a simple addition on the assembly line. [quoted image][quoted image]
Great idea!
I dislike how they placed the led ring under the button nut. Compressing the leds and board between the nut and the wood...
Quoted from TSB_:Just another little improvement I did the other day. I noticed that the flipper buttons were dim compared to the action button on the lock bar. The neopixel ring, used to light the buttons, is pressed directly against the cabinet. Adding a 1/16” clear washer between the cabinet and the LEDs allows them to light the button much better.
I 3D printed a pair of washers out of clear filament, but laser cutting them from 1/16” thick acrylic would work equally well.
Left flipper button has the washer, right flipper button is factory:
SpookyLuke this would be a simple addition on the assembly line. [quoted image][quoted image]
Hardware store have anything round and just use a step drill bit to drill center out maybe.?
Quoted from beltking:Hardware store have anything round and just use a step drill bit to drill center out maybe.?
Probably, but I have the 3d printer and clear filament on-hand. It would have cost me more in gas than it cost me in filament (I'm not super close to any hardware stores).
It would definitely be faster and cheaper (if you had a laser cutter) to make them out of 1/16" thick acrylic. I just don't have that handy.
Quoted from TSB_:Pm me your info.
PM sent
Quoted from TSB_:Just another little improvement I did the other day. I noticed that the flipper buttons were dim compared to the action button on the lock bar. The neopixel ring, used to light the buttons, is pressed directly against the cabinet. Adding a 1/16” clear washer between the cabinet and the LEDs allows them to light the button much better.
I 3D printed a pair of washers out of clear filament, but laser cutting them from 1/16” thick acrylic would work equally well.
Left flipper button has the washer, right flipper button is factory:
SpookyLuke this would be a simple addition on the assembly line. [quoted image][quoted image]
I can vouch for Jeff's prints incase he's planning to sell these. He has his printer settings dialed in
Quoted from Svenop:I can vouch for Jeff's prints incase he's planning to sell these. He has his printer settings dialed in
I appreciate the sentiment. I'm always happy to print extras of what I make for my own machines.
I've already packaged up a half-dozen of these for fellow Scooby-Doo! owners that pm'd me directly.
Quoted from TSB_:I appreciate the sentiment. I'm always happy to print extras of what I make for my own machines.
I've already packaged up a half-dozen of these for fellow Scooby-Doo! owners that pm'd me directly.
Ordered a set. Thanks Jeff!! Will post pics when I get them installed
Quoted from ArcadeTechNerd:The updated lighting controller brings some really nice changes to the light show. Will be interesting to see how they leverage this in future code updates.
Has anybody received the new light board without asking for it? Still waiting on mine for ce 98#. Don't wanna call but guess I should at thus point.
Quoted from F__U:Has anybody received the new light board without asking for it? Still waiting on mine for ce 98#. Don't wanna call but guess I should at thus point.
I sent an email today for #184 since I would have thought it may have at least shipped by now. Wanted to send out an email before I totally forget about it!
Quoted from F__U:Has anybody received the new light board without asking for it? Still waiting on mine for ce 98#. Don't wanna call but guess I should at thus point.
I received it without asking for it. CE #66
Quoted from Chippewa-Pin:I received it without asking for it. CE #66
Same here for #77. The new light show makes a bigger difference than I thought it would! The colors even change depending on which character you choose!
Quoted from thekaiser82:Setup Scooby today. No issues out of the box. Plays as it should.
[quoted image]
Looks good! What number?
Those target decals have taken a beating. Is t
Quoted from J_Striker:got mine last week w/o asking #81, they are coming be patient
Sounds like they are going out in order, higher numbers will have to wait likely
Just got Invoiced. Paid for #469. Direct order.
No Butter. Really wanted a Butter Cabinet, but Butter money was redirected toward a Final Resistance P3 module.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Arrived today. Will put in tomorrow. They are on scale with Charlie.
[quoted image]
Thinking of somehow mounting them all around the topper.
IMG_0281 (resized).jpegAre these the same ones that BallyKISS1978 got? I found sets on ebay that say 5".
Thanks
Quoted from mkk629:Thinking of somehow mounting them all around the topper.[quoted image]
Quoted from Damonator:No video, but here are the exact steps for removing the upper playfield:
With playfield lifted, disconnect the 2 blue network cables from the main board and the white 5 pin and white 4 pin plugs (solenoid power) from the z-connectors. Label the blue network cables if they are not already - one is for switches, the other leds.
Clip any wire ties that would prevent the disconnected wires from feeding into the lower playfield cutout.
Lower the playfield.
Remove stone wall from front of upper playfield (2 wood screws).
Remove mystery machine (2 wood screws) and disconnect network cable from inside van.
Remove orange wireform (1 screw).
Remove UPPER purple wireform (1 11/32 nut).
Remove blue wireform (1 11/32 nut).
Remove the large upper playfield plastic (3 5/16 nuts).
Remove 2 square head wood screws on right side of upper playfield now exposed by removing large plastic.
Unplug and remove left spotlight (1 screw and 1 hexpost).
Remove leftmost plastic (3 5/16 nuts) to allow for easier removal of screws in next step.
Remove 2 ¼ wood screws from left woodrail on lower playfield (frees the bracket holding up the left side of upper playfield).
Remove topmost plastic and cut zip tie (3 machine screws).
Remove entrance gate (1 5/16 nut) and plastic post (1 ¼ post screw) – this will allow the guide rail to flex backwards in order to clear the entrance ramp when removing.
Remove 2 entrance ramp screws.
Carefully lift front of upper playfield slightly to separate, then gently pull forward to clear the entrance ramp.
Feed disconnected wires up through lower playfield cutout and you should be free!
They need to make a video
Invoice for #498 came today. I'm pretty impressed for how quickly Spooky seems to be turning these pins out for a manufacturer of their size. @spookybug, I give you full permission to overly QC the crap out of that one, my kids are excited to play it. Almost as much as I am.
Can I get a mod where someone replaces the Mystery Vans front Windshield with a small LCD screen that has the gang doing funny animations on loop. Man that would be awesome. Just wishful thinking that will never happen, but still that would be great.
Quoted from drbrain:mkk629
Are these the same ones that BallyKISS1978 got? I found sets on ebay that say 5".
Thanks
I believe so. Most of them I got several years ago.
Quoted from Castlecade:They need to make a video
There is a video available. Just ask Spooky for it if you need it. It’s already been mentioned in the thread.
Quoted from drbrain:mkk629
Are these the same ones that BallyKISS1978 got? I found sets on ebay that say 5".
Thanks
Those are the correct ones.
The BallyKISS1978 figures look awesome. I like the ones he picked, as they are some from the set that don't have elbow/knee joints. Cheapest mod I've bought.
Be careful searching ebay (or... enjoy searching eBay depending on your taste). There are some raunchy Scooby Doo figures out there...
Quoted from BallLocks:Be careful searching ebay (or... enjoy searching eBay depending on your taste). There are some raunchy Scooby Doo figures out there...
rushing to ebay.....
Quoted from BallLocks:The BallyKISS1978 figures look awesome. I like the ones he picked, as they are some from the set that don't have elbow/knee joints. Cheapest mod I've bought.
Be careful searching ebay (or... enjoy searching eBay depending on your taste). There are some raunchy Scooby Doo figures out there...
Quoted from Only_Pinball:rushing to ebay.....
Yessir! From Ebay! And this was a tame example
Screenshot_20230522_224224_eBay (resized).jpgQuoted from BallLocks:The BallyKISS1978 figures look awesome. I like the ones he picked, as they are some from the set that don't have elbow/knee joints. Cheapest mod I've bought.
Be careful searching ebay (or... enjoy searching eBay depending on your taste). There are some raunchy Scooby Doo figures out there...
Thanks for the compliment. Yeah there is a raunchy one with Scooby and Daphne.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:Yessir! From Ebay! And this was a tame example
[quoted image]
Maybe spooky should have used this art. May have sold out already. Lol
#517 invoiced and paid yesterday. This is via Kingpin Games and will ship in about 3 weeks or so the email said. No butter.
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Okotoks, AB
San Tan Valley, AZ
mkk629