There are (2) "different" OCD systems, BOTH which help the STTNG Pin. GI-OCD is for the General Illumination system, and removes the flickering led bulds (standard or non-ghost, it doesn't matter) will have. In addition, it returns the unique feature in the STTNG machine, SHIELD STRENGTH. When the call out "Shields are at 20 percent" The shields on the playfield will be dimmer (not flickering), just on but dimmer. In the test mode, under GI lighting test, everything level of lighting will be available. Non OCD systems with leds will flicker/stobe until level 7 is reached, then they will be on solid.

LED-OCD is the system for ALL INSERTS, allowing them "ramp on and ramp off" smoother than the instant ON / OFF. Returning the look of the machine to original, however with the benefit of leds.

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I have ordered both boards for STTNG. I have used both on my WCS and WH20 and its why I wanted them for STTNG even some feel they aren't necessary.

I have also ordered purple bumper caps as I don't like the red ones - does anyone have a good way/method of cutting the third cap to fit under the ramp? I dislike the unfinished look. My old game had this done and it looked WAY better IMHO.

Do purple lane guides exist for this game? I watched Chris at HEP's video on the restore he did about 6 months ago and he said he used clear and painted the insides purples so I am guessing purple doesn't exist.

All boards except fliptronic are on their way to Hibler for work. AUX board was so bad he said get a new one so I ordered one from DumbAss last night.

I have purple lane guides. I had a mule bring them from Germany last year. $20 a set, which includes the shipping.

Victor makes a fantastic 16 Opto Board with leds and also just completed Rev-01 of the 8 Driver Board. Both great. The under ramp cutout is full described back on this forum, if you do a search, you'll find it. In addition, Bright Rings are nice for the 3 poppers. They light down, as well as up giving the area up them more illumination. Since you are doing your machine up, don't forget the Cliff Protectors as well. Also, if you have looked yet, your ball trough boards are likely hacked up messes. Dumbass makes those, and so do others

Thanks will go searching once I get my caps.

Game already has cliffy (happy about that). Will have to look into the other items as I am not sure.

Bright rings - yeah I saw those in Chris' video and had seen them before just haven't made up my mind on them yet but will probably end up with them anyway.

Pinduino Borg is on the way as I love his stuff. Need to get my ship and cannons painted. Not planning to do the laser mod as I am just not interested in dropping $250 on that mod. I had it before and it was fine but not worth that cost (just my opinion of course).

I so wish I had my game from back in the day as it was a really good example and had an awesome shuttle mod which I have never seen again. It had people in the front section and was lit up. Very very nice mod. Of course this goes back to pre-pinside when everything was done on rec.games.pinball news group.

Thanks

Professor Pinball does a nice job on this Borg Mod, I have one. Back Alley is the place to have the Borg Ship and the Cannons painted. I only had Back Alley do the Borg Ship, I did the Cannons myself. On the lasers, check with Mick, however last I looked, they were sold out. Mick Pinball also sells some special led discs he developed for the cannons, engine inserts and more. I made some videos for him from my machine, you can check it out on his website.

A PinStadium system is also worthwhile, however DONT get the entry level, the next on up is worth it AND you don't see the leds in the reflections of the chrome or plastics

If you are going to do things right, VooDoo Glass.... nuf said!

Game has invisiglass already so I am all set there. Also came with pinstadiums in the deal.

Saw your videos on the led discs from Mick. Thought they looked awesome on the engines. Seem to distract me a tad on the canons though but that could just be me.

I have reached out to Matt to see what he can do. They are closed up until next week so not expecting to hear back from him until then. I know he is a very busy guy. I have looked at modfather as well as I think they do good work too.

Appreciate your advice, thanks.

A 3 channel led Borg Figure is worthwhile, if the guy still produces them. I made several, and they are a pain in the ass.
Precision Flippers ROCK, mechanically superior to anything out there. Get the "keyed" flipper batts.

There is also an upgrade for the physical ball trough, its a "Rail Design"

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Ah yes I also have the precision flippers on mine. Hitting that Delta ramp is not a problem anymore. Flippers are powerful and most importantly, CONSISTENT!

I use precisions on my GZ and MBR. Have them for my CCR just haven't put them on their yet.

I am sure I will be putting them on STTNG as well, you guys are just adding to my list of to dos uggh!

Hadn't seen this before didn't know it was even out there - who makes this?

Which one? Borg or trough?

Yeah I also have a set for my Stern SW and JP that have been sitting on a shelf for well over a year. Would rather play than spend time installing shit lol.

Agreed!

Definitely worth the install though as I enjoy mine for sure.

Trough.

I found it though https://mantispinball.com/product/williams-wpc-95-trough-upgrade/

Should have known it was Kerry.

How much of a PITA is it to change this out. I like the design.

Not super interested in adding the Borg. So much on this game already.

The updated Ball Trough eliminates completely the "Divits" issue. No more looking for the balls in the game, because they are stuck in the low spots in the trough. The rails are also reversible. In addition, there is a ball lock, keeping the balls in place, when raising the playfield.
It's not hard to install. I would suggest if you get it, seriously consider replacing the trough opto boards (if you haven't already). You can install them before on the new ball trough when it's out of the machine.

Also the time to look at the .100 connectors and see if they are a repair guy's nightmare. Typically they are. I rebuilt mine, you can see in the photo.

I'm skeptical of any product which claims to eliminate something

I am "not" specifically promoting HomePin, just bringing awareness for the new people who have joined this forum.
Machine looking for pinballs?
Have you checked the Opto Boards in the ball trough? There are (7) "sets" of optos there. Mine were a hacked up, soldering mess. If your machine seems to be constantly looking for balls, this is one possible problem area. A replacement board sets is available. There is both an emitter board and receiver board.

Other manufactures produce these as well. Dumbass (Victor) on Pinside makes them too.

This is something from Marco. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18244

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Mine are green lol.

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That’s the color. Teal

Yeah I am all fixed. Seems there were purple bulbs in the shield inserts and I didn't realize. I mean it was a nice blue color but it sure wasn't right.

Thumbs down to colored bulbs in pins for me, with a few acceptions. Stay neutral and OCD boards are a must. I’m not a fan of cool white in general, but it works 100% in STTNG because of the color scheme. Just my own opinion of course

OCD boards on the way and a supply of cool white bulbs. Yeah I had no clue there were purple bulbs in the shield inserts. When I posted the pic I had looked at the bulbs under the playfield and they looked white to me. Then when had to dig into the game further due to the fried coils I took a much closer look at the bulbs and saw a small purple ring on them that I did not see before and I knew that was the issue. Popped in some basic white bulbs I had and we were back to good old teal green color.

Hi, I just recently got an original Addams Family pin. I want to know if it's possible to upgrade to a LCD display (Not the color dot matrix LED).

I modified and got the LCD display working on a 1993 Data East Jurassic Park and it is awesome! I want to know if anyone has added the color LCD /with modifications to get it working with Addams Family pinball machine.

Thanks and appreciate any experience and advice.

Mike

Perhaps you would have better luck posting in the Addams Family Club thread? You're in the Star Trek Next Generation thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-the-addams-family-club-tafmembers-fans-welcome

To answer your question - yes you can add an LCD. As jibmums pointed out, wrong thread. I’ll meet you over there to assist.

Today's Update

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While reading and going through posts, I came across the "tie-back fix". Never knew about it until a few days ago. I've had the game for almost 20 years and didn't know if was done or not - Nope! It is now, I did it tonight and didn't take long either. I'm lucky it never went and took out the board and coil.

Did the connectors to the ball trough normally look like this? Obviously not the bodge wires soldered directly to the board, but the connector even looks wrong given the angle it's bent at.

Any advice for repining/reconnecting? I'm getting occasional extra balls and feel like I have to start with this mess before looking at much else.

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NO, that is a hack rig screw up job. Those are .156 molex connectors. The ones that actually fit the opto boards are .100 (smaller) size. Yeah they did the hack bypass too. The right and best way to upgrade your machine, is to get a set of new opto boards (previously posted) and rebuild the connectors and pins

Pins:
https://twistywristarcade.com/100-kk-series/322-terminal-female-22-30awg-tin.html

Housings
https://twistywristarcade.com/92-molex-connectors

use the STTNG Manual for references for the wire locations. Or a good close up photo of someone's machine, each of the ball trough connectors, for wire order and pin location.

If you aren't comfortable, an experience tech should be able to rebuild them for you. This is a must do, for the machine to work
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I know right. I discovered it AFTER I blew mine up. Now I preach the Tie Back FIX (not a mod) all the time. Just discovered a Tie Back FIX is required for the Williams Terminator 2 Pin too. Just completed that machine at the arcade.

It's a job. I had that issue a few years back as well as a few optos going. I bought a crimper a while back which make redoing connectors with molex much easier. It's a bit harder with the double wire but doable.
The shock and vibration of the ball kicker takes it's toll on these boards and connectors. Done right and it's lasts for quite a while.

Bummer that it failed first. Browsing has it's benefits, I stumbled on it by chance. Makes me wonder what else I have missed and need to know. Lots!

Why is everything about spending money with you?
Sometimes repairing the original boards is more cost effective than just blindly buying new stuff.

Connectors and a little solder is a lot cheaper than a set of Opto boards

That seems to be a popular hack - my STTNG was like that when I first got it as well. I've spent the last couple of years slowly getting rid of hacks like that in mine while still playing almost daily! She's getting taken apart this summer tho when my new playfield is ready from Ron Kruzman.

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Just posted my players STTNG if anyone is looking to get back into the club!

Machine - For Sale

Star Trek: The Next Generation Archived

Partially shopped/refurbished - “Hey guys, I’m listing my Williams- Star Trek: The Next Generation. Game works 100% but is a players STTNG. I was planning on a full restoration of this game but life gets in t...”

2024-01-16

Suffield, CT

qbass187

5,800

Archived after: 7 days

Viewed: 735 times

Status: Not sold

Looking over my STTNG and noticed my subway bracket with the diverters has had some serious repairs and reworked.

Does this all need to be rebuilt with new?

Diverters cannot be tested due to no boards and fries coils which will be replaced when I get parts. Left diverter is fully locked when moving manually right has some movement but not full range. Of course the fried coils are locking things down.

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The weld looks fine to me. You can test the diverter with your hand and hold both ends to test how much pressure it can handle.

I say the same thing with hacks: if they are working, don't bother fixing them. If they fail, fix 'em.

That bracket won't win any beauty prizes... and it certainly isn't a bunch of nickels.
That said; if it's mechanically sound - I'd probably leave it alone.
It's not clear if you can get that kind of part anymore. Maybe Eric knows where to get them.

I'm all for fixing hacks; just not keen of wholesale replacement for the sake of "buying new".
No way in hell I'd take any board over an original unless it fixes serious design issues. Rottendawg isn't one of them.
My Monsterbash has a rottentrash power driver board in it... and I'd much rather have the original with matching serial numbers.

That said; I'm glad rottentrash exists for those that need it.

That's true, but botched jobs can be very painful to repair. Depends on how extensive the damage caused by said job is.

But also keep in mind that optos age over time. If you opt for a new board, you get brand new LEDs and sensors.

Also look for boards that reduce heat dissipation. The OEM transmitter boards use 270 Ohm 2W resistors that get VERY hot. They are known to self de-solder. If preferable, choose a board that implements current limiting resistors in series rather than in parallel.

For STTNG, current limiting resistor circuitry may not matter since the game is probably 100% dependent on all 7 transmitters working. If there is a problem in a parallel implementation then one transmitter will be non-functional. In series implementations, several transmitters will be non-functional but the end result is the same. The game software gets VERY confused. This is especially true in IJ3 where the game deduces ball locks in the idol by the number of balls remaining in the trough.

Here is my opto board. She ain’t pretty but appeared to be working before I pulled my boards to go to Hibler. Hoping a replacement is not needed even though I might be better off

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In this case I'm fine with that...there are a few seriously charred through holes around some of the resistors. I'd rather clean it all up and have confidence that my failures aren't coming from past shoddy repairs

Just a PSA for new owners, it is always a good idea to remove all balls before lifting the playfield, but it is especially critical with this game. The subway is such a long run and the balls will crash down to the end and break the plastic.

Yes yes. Been there done that! Fortunately subways are still in good shape. I think it was one of the first times I did it. I took the balls out of the trough and forgot about the ones in the subways. I now always use the "clear balls" in the test menu to get them all.

It was one of those situations where I thought "I'm only going to lift it up onto the lower rests", and then have to raise it all the way up.

Now it's glass off, balls out!

I’ve got to tell you about the mess my STTNG was in when I got it. This one slipped past me when I purchased it and discovered it when turning it on at home for the first time. I had this annoying problem with the coils firing on power up. Loud and startling but the game functioned normally. This affected only some of the low power and some of the high power coils but not all. Looking at the 4 panel diagram I couldn’t see how they would be grounded on just some of the coils. I concentrated my efforts on the low power coils as the circuits are just a little less complicated. Luckily U4 was socketed allowing me some diagnostic flexibility. The power driver board had been overhauled by Eugene mosh back in 2020 two owners ago. I couldn’t imagine him skipping the bridge rectifiers or other weak points of the board. Swapped in a known good 74LS374, no change. Yanked U4 and powered it up, the coils did not fire on the low power leg. Interesting. Put U4 back and disconnected the ribbon cable from cpu to power driver board. Coils did not fire for low or high power legs. Then I looked closer at this arcade power supply in the bottom of the cabinet. I had assumed at purchase it was in there to run the aftermarket 12v topper. It had been installed by an owner before the person I bought it from and he didn’t know what it did. After tracing the wires I found it was feeding ground and the +5v to the cpu board. Power driver board is producing 5v just fine. Cut that out and put the cpu wiring back to factory. No more firing coils. Not sure why the arcade power supply was affecting the board but it’s out now along with the wire nuts and electrical tape

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It's unrealistic but would be nice to have a log of what was done and why. I know if it's routed, the owner just does what's needed to keep it going.

I take a page out of a notebook and write what I did, when, and why for myself (my memory isn't what it used to be, plus too many games to keep up on) and anyone else who might work on it in the future when making any modifications or changes.

I feel your pain. I've dealt with other owners fix that wasn't right.

New ir LEDs on digikey are 41 cents.
Again, cheap if board is just well used.
Just pointing out that spending a little money can be just as effective as an expensive replacement board

I think I replaced every ir led in my game for $5. Which I might recommend btw.

I ordered about 50 myself a few weeks ago. I prefer to fix than replace if possible.