(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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#10101 59 days ago

This is the spot for a new cannon harness if you need it--

https://wirebot.xyz/products/sttng-top-gun-cannon-cable

#10102 59 days ago
Quoted from matthess:

This is the spot for a new cannon harness if you need it--
https://wirebot.xyz/products/sttng-top-gun-cannon-cable

Second this , makes great product⁹

#10103 58 days ago

i need assistance with the New Led Gi ocd board hookup to STTNG .. i am at the Breakout board part and they have the incorrect 2x 11 pin Jpin connectors listed as j105 and j106 . it can not be them / also no 3 pin connector at j104. anybody know the correct layout or could provide a picture of the setup on their
STTNG / thanks . i didnt start the LED ocd board for inserts yet but hope they came with STTNG pin hookup instructions .

#10104 58 days ago
Quoted from PinFever:

i need assistance with the New Led Gi ocd board hookup to STTNG .. i am at the Breakout board part and they have the incorrect 2x 11 pin Jpin connectors listed as j105 and j106 . it can not be them / also no 3 pin connector at j104. anybody know the correct layout or could provide a picture of the setup on their
STTNG / thanks . i didnt start the LED ocd board for inserts yet but hope they came with STTNG pin hookup instructions .

You are looking at WPC 95 installation instructions. You need to follow WPC 89 instructions. J120, J121 and J119 are the connections you use with WPC 89

https://ledocd.com/install_wpc89_gi_r4.html

#10105 58 days ago

tyvm.... Greatly appreciated

Quoted from sfspanky:You are looking at WPC 95 installation instructions. You need to follow WPC 89 instructions. J120, J121 and J119 are the connections you use with WPC 89
https://ledocd.com/install_wpc89_gi_r4.html

#10106 58 days ago

My 16-opto board is filthy with black dust. I'd like to pull it, wash it off with dish soap and water, rinse & blow with compressed air, rinse again with 91% alcohol and blow dry with compressed air again. Is there even the slightest chance of this damaging the board at all?

#10107 58 days ago

There is always a chance.
That said; you'll be fine as long as you make sure it's totally dry UNDER THE ICs.
The best way to do this is be VERY, VERY sure you've given it time to dry.
If you aren't in a hurry; just sit in in front of a fan for a day or two or a week.
After dry; re-inspect the solder joints to be sure they are good.

#10108 58 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

My 16-opto board is filthy with black dust. I'd like to pull it, wash it off with dish soap and water, rinse & blow with compressed air, rinse again with 91% alcohol and blow dry with compressed air again. Is there even the slightest chance of this damaging the board at all?

As Zitt said, give it time. Yes, blow out with compressed air, leave it to sit overnight then blow with compressed air again to insure you got everything. Also, a hair dryer on low setting after compressed air, will really help speed up the drying process and give you insurance

#10109 58 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I'd like to pull it, wash it off with dish soap and water, rinse & blow with compressed air, rinse again with 91% alcohol and blow dry with compressed air again. Is there even the slightest chance of this damaging the board at all?

Back in the late 80's at the start of my engineering career, I wrote assembly code, provided tech support, and performed QA testing for a hardware based RAID controller company. In those days, all of our ISA and EISA based controller 4-layer PCBs were hand assembled with thru-hole IC's and components. At the end of our hallway were two consumer line dishwashers - after the assembly crew would finish 40 boards, each dishwasher got 20 of them to run a hot water rinse cycle for 90 minutes with a mild detergent. Those were the days - less than 10 years later, we had a dedicated manufacturing facility built down the street with 90% of the 12-layer boards built via automation using pick and place machines with surface mount parts. And a huge industrial-sized washer (about the size of a standard mini-van) that washed 150 boards at a time with a special solution, then dried them.

In other words, like the others have said, you'll be fine washing your board if you let it dry.

Caveat - do not wash PCBs if they have relays or microswitch devices on them. You don't want to chance water getting inside those.

#10110 58 days ago

Was concerned about the IC's, I've never gotten any wet before even when cleaning up battery leakage on an MPU. The pin's still in pieces so plenty of time for it to dry thoroughly. That said, I'll still blow it off with compressed air until I'm sure every trace of water is gone. Thanks guys.

#10111 58 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I'll still blow it off with compressed air until I'm sure every trace of water is gone.

Unless you have a refrigerated air dryer on you output of the air compressor; be warry of trusting the compressed air.
The act of compressing air; heats it up - converting the normal water vapor into the concentrated water in the steam. This then condenses in the output tubing of the machine and in the air bladder itself. This leads to water droplets coming out the air nozzle on most peoples configuration.

Probably not a real concern for this application - just make sure you give the board plenty of "resting time" - overnight, days, weeks before you apply power.

(As a laser operator; Air Compressors are the bane of our existence. Many loose lenses to water drops on them. )

#10112 58 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Was concerned about the IC's, I've never gotten any wet before even when cleaning up battery leakage on an MPU. The pin's still in pieces so plenty of time for it to dry thoroughly. That said, I'll still blow it off with compressed air until I'm sure every trace of water is gone. Thanks guys.

Avoid the water. Just use 99% alcohol. It cleans well and then you don't have to worry.

#10113 58 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Unless you have a refrigerated air dryer on you output of the air compressor; be warry of trusting the compressed air.

I don't but you just reminded me, I have a moisture trap that I never got around to installing on my compressor. Forgot all about it. In any case, I'll hang the board up in my warm boiler room for a couple weeks, that should pretty much dessicate it.

#10114 58 days ago

Just went through a thorough shop job on my STTNG. Flipper buttons feel "cheap". Who makes the best flipper buttons or should I replace the flipper opto interrupters instead or both?

#10115 58 days ago
Quoted from matthess:

This is the spot for a new cannon harness if you need it--
https://wirebot.xyz/products/sttng-top-gun-cannon-cable

I just got mine and am getting ready to put them in. Just read the whole description. It does not come with the diode.

#10116 57 days ago

Update I just installed LX-8. Game works perfectly no issues at all. I can’t remember who sent it to me. But thanks to him for the update.

#10117 57 days ago
Quoted from zimzam:

Just went through a thorough shop job on my STTNG. Flipper buttons feel "cheap". Who makes the best flipper buttons or should I replace the flipper opto interrupters instead or both?

Do you have the spring steel pieces that push the button / interrupter back out?

#10118 57 days ago
Quoted from zimzam:

Just went through a thorough shop job on my STTNG. Flipper buttons feel "cheap". Who makes the best flipper buttons or should I replace the flipper opto interrupters instead or both?

I think you got your answer out of Chris HEP thread but here is what he prefers for STTNG and other games of this generation.

https://www.pinballlife.com/fliptronics-1-flipper-opto-board-set.html

I can confirm they are far nicer than the plastic ones that were on my game.

#10119 57 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Do you have the spring steel pieces that push the button / interrupter back out?

No spring steel, just the plastic.

Quoted from GCS2000:

I think you got your answer out of Chris HEP thread but here is what he prefers for STTNG and other games of this generation.
https://www.pinballlife.com/fliptronics-1-flipper-opto-board-set.html
I can confirm they are far nicer than the plastic ones that were on my game.

The one I saw on HEP thread was an earlier game because he just had the plastic ones in that one. Thanks for the link. I'd be interested in a metal interrupter but looks like I would need an entire new assembly.

Anyone sell just the spring steel so I can add it to the plastic thats there?

edit: disregard, found them on Marco. Thanks guys this helped answer my questions!

#10120 57 days ago
Quoted from zimzam:

Anyone sell just the spring steel so I can add it to the plastic thats there?

https://www.pinballlife.com/spring-steel-lever-4.html?Category_Code=

#10121 56 days ago

Ok, not gonna lie, feeling a little stupid. What's the proper way to go from idc to molex on these machines... With the wire continuing on, are you supposed to cut where it was punched and twist both together while pinning?

Also, I looked up the emitter board in the trough per the manual only mentions pin 1 and 5 being populated for 12v and gnd, but they also have duplicate inputs on other pins. Wondering if I should connect their duplicate pins to the wires that were directly soldered to my emitter board.

IMG_20240218_132043174 (resized).jpgIMG_20240218_132043174 (resized).jpg
#10122 56 days ago

Coil meltdown on Subway diverter.

Hi, This normally would be a tie back issue, but I am including a pic which shows that the small wire is still attached to the drop target. I am going to replace the coil which totally melted down, but I believe, based on reading the many posts here, that I probably fried a transistor. Does anyone know which transistor is associated with this toasted coil? I have included a picture of which coil it was. I also checked the head, and it blew fuse F 103 on the PCB.

BTW, I had just put in a new old stock left cannon motor assembly, and was making sure everything was working correctly. During the test game, I had a ball go down the neutral zone hole and it never showed up again. while the game was looking for the lost ball, i started to smell the dreaded electric burning smell, turned off the game, pulled the playfield and saw that one of the diverter coil was hot to the touch and that the diverter was locked in position. I pulled the coil and saw the insides were melted down.

I guess this could all be coincidence, and is not tieback nor does it have anything to do with the replaced motor, however, probably not likely.

Any suggestions as to what to check before I put in a new coil to ensure that it wasn't just the coils time?

1000000998 (resized).jpg1000000998 (resized).jpg1000000999 (resized).jpg1000000999 (resized).jpg

#10123 56 days ago
Quoted from math08:

Coil meltdown on Subway diverter.
Hi, This normally would be a tie back issue, but I am including a pic which shows that the small wire is still attached to the drop target. I am going to replace the coil which totally melted down, but I believe, based on reading the many posts here, that I probably fried a transistor. Does anyone know which transistor is associated with this toasted coil? I have included a picture of which coil it was. I also checked the head, and it blew fuse F 103 on the PCB.
BTW, I had just put in a new old stock left cannon motor assembly, and was making sure everything was working correctly. During the test game, I had a ball go down the neutral zone hole and it never showed up again. while the game was looking for the lost ball, i started to smell the dreaded electric burning smell, turned off the game, pulled the playfield and saw that one of the diverter coil was hot to the touch and that the diverter was locked in position. I pulled the coil and saw the insides were melted down.
I guess this could all be coincidence, and is not tieback nor does it have anything to do with the replaced motor, however, probably not likely.
Any suggestions as to what to check before I put in a new coil to ensure that it wasn't just the coils time?
[quoted image][quoted image]

8 driver assembly. Top right corner in the back box. Look at the area between Q13-Q16 next to J4.
Most likely Q16, which is a TIP102

Do the tie back mod. The solder joints on that coil are fugly. Cold as hell. So I bet the tie back failed.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#10124 56 days ago

So, if I blew out a transistor, it would be on the 8 board, not the main PCB? Also, since Fuse F 103 blew out, do you think it possible that the transistor would be still OK?

#10125 56 days ago
Quoted from math08:

So, if I blew out a transistor, it would be on the 8 board, not the main PCB? Also, since Fuse F 103 blew out, do you think it possible that the transistor would be still OK?

Anything is possible, but you should do a search here on Pinside and read up on the most common failures. No way to tell what you have going on without diving in and observing and testing. Start with the 8 Driver board and post pictures and people here will jump in.

#10126 56 days ago

Just pulled the 8 Board out, and the back looks pretty bad. Looks like an ugly repair done prior to me getting the game. I have had this since around 2010, and never had a problem.

I welcome all advice, but looks like maybe I should buy a Rotten Dog board, replace the one coil, and DO THE TIEBACK.

What do you all think?

Aux Board Front (resized).jpgAux Board Front (resized).jpgSTTNG Aux Board back (resized).jpgSTTNG Aux Board back (resized).jpg
#10127 56 days ago
Quoted from math08:

Just pulled the 8 Board out, and the back looks pretty bad. Looks like an ugly repair done prior to me getting the game. I have had this since around 2010, and never had a problem.
I welcome all advice, but looks like maybe I should buy a Rotten Dog board, replace the one coil, and DO THE TIEBACK.
What do you all think?
[quoted image][quoted image]

It's totally savable.

You have 3 options here. Get this board repaired by Chris Hibler or Coin-Op Cauldron for about $60 (including back and forth shipping), buy a 8 driver Aux from DumbAss with the tie back header and resistor mods for about $90 (including shipping), or both of the before mentioned.

I have 3 games that use this board, so I had mine repaired and is a back up for any of them. I bought the modded version from DumbAss specifically for STTNG.

The choice is yours, but if you don't repair the original, post it up in the MMO section so it can find a good home.

Definitely get the DumbAss board over the RottenDog.

#10128 56 days ago

I have been having Clive do a bunch of work for me lately. CPU board on my MM, PCB on this STTNG, didn't realize that this was so bad. I have stayed away from Rotten Dog so far. DumbAss always has insightful things to say. May go that way so I get the tie back header.

#10129 56 days ago
Quoted from math08:

I have been having Clive do a bunch of work for me lately. CPU board on my MM, PCB on this STTNG, didn't realize that this was so bad. I have stayed away from Rotten Dog so far. DumbAss always has insightful things to say. May go that way so I get the tie back header.

If you ever need/want a replacement board, go with Victor (DumbAss).

That board is really not bad, but it could be cleaned up neater for sure

#10130 56 days ago

Sounds good, appreciate your advice

#10131 56 days ago

My aux 8 board was in similar condition and Chris said it wasn’t worth repairing. I got one of Dumbass’ boards. Works great. He is on an extended vacation now so you wouldn’t be able to get one of his for a while. I believe Chris may have one for sale so check with him also.

#10132 56 days ago
Quoted from math08:

Just pulled the 8 Board out, and the back looks pretty bad. Looks like an ugly repair done prior to me getting the game.

00_sttng_upper_diverter_solenoid.jpg00_sttng_upper_diverter_solenoid.jpg

The damaged solenoid is 37 = Under Diverter Top.

01_sttng_solenoid_table.jpg01_sttng_solenoid_table.jpg

The solenoid table shows the drive transistors on the 8-Driver Auxiliary board. The red box shows Q16 for solenoid 37 and Q13 for solenoid 40.

02_sttng_8-driver_auxiliary.jpg02_sttng_8-driver_auxiliary.jpg

This is your board. The red box is Q16. The yellow box is Q13. Since solenoid 37 is damaged, it is likely that Q16 is shorted. There does look to be damage at the emitter leg of the transistor. Q13 has been replaced and whoever replaced it previously removed the through hole with the damaged drive transistor. The repair that you see there is to restore correct electrical continuity to the required points. There may be a potential issue with that yellow jumper wire. It's hard to see since the image is 2D but the wire is connected in 3D. It appears to be shorting two electrically isolated points but this could be an optical illusion based on the 2D/3D nature of the imaging.

I suspect you'll need to replace Q16. You may not need to replace Q13. It depends on whether it works or not. The major concern is that if Q13 needs to be replaced then you will need to restore the correct electrical continuity since the pads and through holes are gone.

When (or if) you replaced Q16 be sure to try your best to not remove the through holes with the drive transistor.

Finally, you can verify the tieback diode wire is correctly in place by measuring continuity from J107-1 on the Power Driver board to J4-1 on the 8-Driver Auxiliary board. The continuity is returned to J4-1 by the small VIO-GRN wire that you see attached to the single lug of solenoid 39 = Top Drop Up.

#10133 56 days ago

I checked the continuity from J107-1 to J104-1 and it was good. Even without the tieback mod, I have a good connection, so I am unsure why everything went bad.

I will get a new board, do the tieback, replace the coil, and cross my fingers.

#10134 56 days ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

My aux 8 board was in similar condition and Chris said it wasn’t worth repairing. I got one of Dumbass’ boards. Works great. He is on an extended vacation now so you wouldn’t be able to get one of his for a while. I believe Chris may have one for sale so check with him also.

Ordered a TZ clock board. He's out until March. Having fun I hope.

#10135 56 days ago
Quoted from math08:

I checked the continuity from J107-1 to J104-1 and it was good. Even without the tieback mod, I have a good connection, so I am unsure why everything went bad.
I will get a new board, do the tieback, replace the coil, and cross my fingers.

The solder job to the coil in the photo provided is poor. Could have a cracked joint causing resistance. This is why the tie back mod exists. It’s a safety net/second line of defense.

I would redo the connections to all coils in that string and check the IDC connections to the 8 driver aux

#10136 56 days ago

We could add an inline slo-blow fuse for that diverter coil as a back up I think. It’s clearly pulling some serious amps that it heats up that bad. But where’s the sweet spot between normal operating amperage and the next weakest part of the load circuit. Wouldn’t want the 8 driver to be weaker than the fuse.

#10137 56 days ago

I am replacing all 4 coils on that circuit and the new coils all have flyback diodes directly on the coil lugs like old time games. I am told that that should resolve the tieback problem with coils/boards frying.

#10138 55 days ago
Quoted from WW2GURU:

We could add an inline slo-blow fuse for that diverter coil as a back up I think. It’s clearly pulling some serious amps that it heats up that bad. But where’s the sweet spot between normal operating amperage and the next weakest part of the load circuit. Wouldn’t want the 8 driver to be weaker than the fuse.

I modified a weebly special solenoid fuse board to use on the eight driver board. Same situation had tie back done but divertor locked on and blew stuff .

#10139 55 days ago

I've had cases where the small ribbon cable leading to the 8-driver board became dislodged (old connectors that lost tension), which will cause some of the controlled circuits (solenoids, flashers) to lock on; I've had this happen on an IJ, an ST:TNG, and a TZ.

#10140 55 days ago
Quoted from jadziedzic:

I've had cases where the small ribbon cable leading to the 8-driver board became dislodged (old connectors that lost tension), which will cause some of the controlled circuits (solenoids, flashers) to lock on; I've had this happen on an IJ, an ST:TNG, and a TZ.

This is the reason the pulldown resistor modification exists. If the signals at the ribbon cable header are floating then you will get unpredictable results. The pulldown resistor modification prevents the floating signals by pulling the data bus bit to ground. It is also important the pull the latch clock signal HIGH with a pullup resistor.

See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_Problems for more information.

If you decide to purchase a replacement board then make sure that manufacturer implements this to prevent damage to the board and your machine.

#10141 55 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

This is the reason the pulldown resistor modification exists. If the signals at the ribbon cable header are floating then you will get unpredictable results. The pulldown resistor modification prevents the floating signals by pulling the data bus bit to ground. It is also important the pull the latch clock signal HIGH with a pullup resistor.
See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Auxiliary_8-Driver_Board_Problems for more information.
If you decide to purchase a replacement board then make sure that manufacturer implements this to prevent damage to the board and your machine.

Will those tieback/piggyback boards of yours prevent that?

#10142 55 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Will those tieback/piggyback boards of yours prevent that?

No. Those boards are to intercept the solenoid supply voltage and provide an alternate path between J107-1 and J4-1. The issue above is a floating digital logic signal on the 8-Driver Auxiliary board. It would be possible to build a small tap board to implement the pulldown on the data bus bits but not the clock signal since the 26-pin connection only has GND and not VCC.

#10143 54 days ago

Hey gang, I'm shopping out a STTNG for a friend, the Borg Ship is mounted w slots.
Does it really matter where it goes in those slots L to R?
I guess if they don't like it they can always take the cover off and adjust.
Just wondering if there was a preference from the community.
thanks

#10144 53 days ago
Quoted from pinbuoy:

Hey gang, I'm shopping out a STTNG for a friend, the Borg Ship is mounted w slots.
Does it really matter where it goes in those slots L to R?
I guess if they don't like it they can always take the cover off and adjust.
Just wondering if there was a preference from the community.
thanks

The slots are to help with the variance in all the parts that attach to the assembly. The metal plate has some flex in it also that makes it a little troublesome to get everything back together. I usually run all 4 screws in and then attach the delta ramp. That tells me where the left 2 screws are gonna fit. then adjust the right 2 screws to make the borg ship fit over the metal plate. Don't forget to go thru the lamp sockets while you have the assembly out.

#10145 53 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

The slots are to help with the variance in all the parts that attach to the assembly. The metal plate has some flex in it also that makes it a little troublesome to get everything back together. I usually run all 4 screws in and then attach the delta ramp. That tells me where the left 2 screws are gonna fit. then adjust the right 2 screws to make the borg ship fit over the metal plate. Don't forget to go thru the lamp sockets while you have the assembly out.

Thanks! Yes once I installed the ramp, I realized that it can only go in one place pretty much.
Thanks again!

#10146 49 days ago

I’ve seen mention of an LX9 rom. Does it exists, and if so, what are the updates?

For that matter, how do I find out what was updated in LX8?

#10147 49 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I’ve seen mention of an LX9 rom. Does it exists, and if so, what are the updates?
For that matter, how do I find out what was updated in LX8?

Hello,

ingo333 is still finalizing the new LX-9. At the moment there is a beta test ongoing. A lot of improvements and new bug fixes will come.

Best regards
Tom

#10148 49 days ago

I am getting weak flippers during Borg multi-ball when I am hammering away for the center shot. Otherwise, they are fine. Is there a temp gauge/monitor/probe I could use to monitor the heat (that is not too expensive)? Is there a generic suggested solution out there as Pin Monk doesn't have a solution for STTNG.

This only occurs in the middle of a decent session of pinball and when I am working a multi-ball so heat would be a thing to point to. The most obvious solution is to leave alone and come back to it, but you know how the one more game thing is.

#10149 49 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

how do I find out what was updated in LX8?

Here is the link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/174#post-7411181 Everything is available there.

Quoted from PinJim:

Does it exists, and if so, what are the updates?

yes.. as 2x286ps said. We are currently beta testing.... I've recently found (and fixed) some Warp 9 problems and have been working on extra ball limits lately.... now it's back to the documentation....

Here's a preliminary overview of all the changes (LX8 + LX9):

Screenshot from 2024-02-26 09-00-26 (resized).pngScreenshot from 2024-02-26 09-00-26 (resized).png
Screenshot from 2024-02-26 09-00-38 (resized).pngScreenshot from 2024-02-26 09-00-38 (resized).png
Screenshot from 2024-02-26 09-00-55 (resized).pngScreenshot from 2024-02-26 09-00-55 (resized).png

I hope it's going to be available soon.. And many thanks to everyone helping with testing and all the rest!!

cheers!

#10150 49 days ago

LX-8 was awesome, LX-9 is epic.

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