(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

6 years ago

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  • 309 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 hours ago by bobukcat
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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (9 months ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (9 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2429 1 year ago

Hey guys, been an owner for a few years now. I finally got around to doing the battery mod so that it now takes a 3v lithium. After this mod, I'm getting extra ball lit after 8x multiplyer. It used to be 10x for extra ball, which I definitely prefer. I can't find anything in the adjustments to change this setting. Anyone have any ideas why it would drop to 8x?

#2434 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I dont know what gain this mod has since you can easily install AA sized lithium batteries in the battery holder

Cheaper, smaller to store spares, easier to purchase, ten minutes to complete...

#2437 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I guess this comes down to a personal decision on which is better. The following information is provided in order to provide everyone reading this thread with more information on this so they can make an informed decision on their own.
Cheaper, maybe; you would have to calculate the cost of the mod in addition to replacing the battery every 3 years instead of every 10 years. Current pricing for a pack of four AA Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries is $6 USD; of course if you buy these in higher quantities for all your machines, remotes, etc, they are much cheaper.
Easier to purchase? I disagree. AA sized Energizer lithium batteries are available everywhere you can buy batteries, and your ease of purchase is as simple as walking into Walmart with cash, check, or credit card, or just ordering them off amazon . Last time I checked, the coin cell mod cannot be purchased nearly as easily, personally I don't even know where to get one as I never considered getting one.
Storage space for spares? Are you serious? Why would you store spare batteries for something that only needs to be replaced once a decade? besides, I automatically assume that if you own a pinball machine, you have adequate space to store a single pack of 4 AA batteries even though you shouldn't?
10 min to complete is actually much longer than it takes to install 3 AA batteries in the existing battery holder...plus you can do it with the machine power on so that you don't loose any high scores, game settings or audits. perhaps I'm not familiar enough with the mod, but the one I saw required pulling the battery holder and replacing it a new coin cell holder, this type mod cannot be performed by everyone.

Lol. Literally.

#2441 12 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

I've been having some odd issues with balls ending before they drain, ball can continue to be played but doesn't score, draining then ends another ball.
E.g. my wife was playing ball 2, end of ball bonus shows mid game, keeps playing for a bit but it isn't scoring, draining ends game.
Looking at the trough boards, c1 is missing from the receiver board:
[quoted image]
I assume I should replace that, but does that correlate with the issue outlined above or should I be looking further?

Replace C1, not the board!

2 weeks later
#2455 11 months ago

Screw'em into the cab. Permanent fix! hqdefault (resized).jpg

#2468 11 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is what it will look like with metal protectors (some parts on this machine are missing)[quoted image]

Yeah, it's totally missing a topper... You should get one.

1 week later
#2474 11 months ago

Yeah, if you have to wait for a while, it is normal.

#2483 11 months ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Anyone ever have issues with the spinner moving right so the switch ends up being held closed by the bent end of the wireform?

No, but I do have an issue with draining after shooting for super spinner. Usually a right drain. Anyone else have this issue?

1 week later
#2507 10 months ago

Yeah, check in the diagnostics.

#2520 10 months ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Could too many mods occupying the unregulated 12v power supply cause this to happen?

Don't see this being the issue, but yeah, unplug them.

1. Quickly indirect opto board for clean connections and cold solder.
2. Take the plastic off the Canon and examine both sides of opto for broken wires.
3. Go into switch edges test. Wiggle each side of the opto switch. If you get a switch hit (open), you likely have cold solder on whichever side triggers. Do the same wiggling with the connectors on the opto board.
4. If nothing triggers, wiggle the canon wiring leading to the optos to look for issues there.
5. If none of that does anything, I'd replace the bulb if you have one. You can buy 100 on eBay for a couple bucks.
6. If bulb is fine, my first suspect would be the LM339. I think that board has three, but you only need to replace two of I remember.

2 weeks later
#2547 10 months ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Hey Folks! I finally found a STTNG of my very own - I'm amazed at the complexity of this game, I've only worked on 1 EM before this.
It needs a good shop job. That said, the video / dmd is off; anyone have any ideas what it could be? The dots on the display are moving according to animations, but they're all piled towards the bottom of the DMD. I've reseated the ribbon connector and the power connector to the DMD, no change. Where should I check/focus next? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Move associated ribbon connectors while the game is on. Mine gets buggy sometimes because the connection isn't tight enough. If I move the ribbon a little on the board, the problem goes away. Oddly, I also sometimes have to press on the graphics chips on the board. These can loosen from vibration. You may want to pull and reseat. Mine shows a full picture with distortion when I have either of these issues, which is not as bad as what you have here.

If these don't help, go into test mode and do the DMD test, that is, if you can navigate to it. If it's a gassing issue, you should be able to tell with the test. Gassing will have faint dots as well as missing dots. There will be key areas missing with faint dots around them. Hard to tell from your pic. Has it ever fully worked for you? Do you get any more dots than what is pictured? Know a person with a DMD game to swap?

#2551 10 months ago

If the swap doesn't fix it, I have a very simple step that I would do next. Since it started to work for a while and then crapped, it sounds like you do have a bad connection somewhere that is vibrating out of place. I'd reseat everything on all boards and press on all seated chips. This simple step has saved me many headaches, particularly with this game. Even if this doesn't fix your current problem, remember this simple step when you have strange issues that come and go. After the reseat, I'd also move wiggle/move any connectors related to the graphics/DMD around in hopes of finding cold solder, loose connections or cracked wiring. If voltages are good and the swap is still bad, you have a bad connection or failing chip. Because it worked momentarily, my money is on a bad connection.

#2560 10 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I wouldn't worry too much, but I also wouldn't spend too much time trying to fix a 25+ year old plasma display. A color DMD is one of the best upgrades you can do for STTNG, but if you are on a tight budget you may want to consider a cheap monochrome LED display. Either way you go, the driver and display will generate less heat and use less power, its a win-win.

+2 on the color DMD. Fits this game better than any other IMO. If your voltages are fine, any other DMD should be fine.

#2568 9 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Hi there.
Need some advice. I'll be hopefully joining the club this Sunday. Looking at two machines and plan on taking one of them home.
Do you guys have any tips as in what to look for. Not my first pin, but I did not intend to test every single switch, opto, etc. since it would probably take forever.
Are there any items on this pin that are prone to fail and should be checked, and if so, what is the best way of checking? pull the glass and run the ball through or just the diagnostic menue?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

This pin is probably in the top 5 pins of all time for being a royal pain in the ass. There are a zillion things that could be wrong with it. Power cycle it and see how the cannons run their test. Canons can be the most obvious potential issue. Then I'd just play the game.

My strategy when buying games is to do a lot of talking with the guy selling it. I find that 95% of pinheads are very honest people and will reveal every little thing wrong with it. Ask if it's had any strange symptoms that happen and go away etc. Ask if it ever blows fuses and what work has been done to it recently. Ask if it's been at least surface shopped. Look underneith for any obvious issues.

I almost always find a few things when I get a machine home, but I expect to. I keep my machines extremly clean and functioning 100%. It's a simple reality that many others do not. If the guy seems honest and the game plays well, I hand over the cash and do my detailed testing at home. I've never had an issue up to this point.

1 week later
#2614 9 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

FWIW, I don't recommend anyone without EXPERT level board repair skills AND the proper soldering equipment make an attempt at replacing these snap-in caps. I also recommend not replacing them at all unless you are measuring excessive AC ripple on your DC line...if you don't know what this is or how to measure it, in all likelihood you shouldn't replace the capacitor.

I'm generally of the camp of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." But I don't consider myself expert, and I've done several snap caps. I've never found them to be any worse than bridges and transistors... Maybe I am an expert.

#2642 9 months ago

Oddly, my left canon started to move slowly today. It is intermittent though. Does this mean I have to crack open the gear box?? I hope not...

#2647 9 months ago

My left canon moves slow only some of the time, so I’m assuming it’s not a grease issue?

2 months later
#2808 7 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Had some problems with my color DMD lately. It sometimes start showing white and distorted graphics only. Used to be that I could turn the pin off and back on and it was all goo, but since today, it will stay white and some lines missing, other doubled up.
I reset all ribbon cables, but that did not fix it. I also found out, that once I go into the DMD menue, the display is fine, just not in the actual game. Any chance the display chip is going bad?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
[quoted image]

Reseat the chips. That always fixes this issue for me.

#2810 6 months ago

Hey Pin_Guy, I'm wondering if you might know anything about a strange cannon issue that I've had since I obtained my STTNG. The canon plungers (particulary the left) sticks "on", meaning that when it fires for the test on boot, it stays sticking out. I have to slam tilt multiple times until it stops sticking open. It almost feels like a ground issue or something, as it stops after a while. After I get it to stop sticking, it works fine until reboot. Any ideas?

#2812 6 months ago

I just finished pulling it apart and stretched out the spring. Problem seems to be gone. I'll report back if it starts sticking again, but I'm getting zero sticks when I usually get quite a few.

#2820 6 months ago
Quoted from Tallon:

It’s not a spring issue. If you look at the coil retention bracket, you will see a dimple or circle where the plunger has damaged it from use. The edge of the plunger actually hangs up on the bracket. You can either replace the braclet or file it down a bit if it’s not that deep.

Interesting. The spring tension has fixed it for now. I’ll look at the bracket when it inevitably returns.

My right canon is now very slow when lining up shots, but after I fire, it goes back to normal speed. I know it’s supposed to be slower during shots, but it is now very slow—I’d say half the speed of what it used to slow down to. Still functional but annoying. Any ideas? The right canon is fine.

1 month later
#2976 4 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Should have thought of that myself....guess that is why you make the big bucks......well, at least you should.
Probably won't happen before the weekend, but I'll report back.

I’ve reflowed solder on the opto boards for a similar issue. They get cold out there in space.

2 weeks later
#3028 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I noticed that the little plastic wall that goes up and down in front of the lock on my machine does not always sit flush with the playfield. It tends to cause issues with the ball sometimes not locking or going into the hole when things like probe launch are selected. I assumed this needed to be adjusted so it will sit flush with the playfield every time when it is down but just wanted to check and make sure.

Yep. Easy to adjust. Just search for wpc drop target adjustment. If I remember correctly, this mechanism is where the tieback comes into play, so be aware. I'd double-check your machine to be sure it's been done. http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/

1 week later
#3047 4 months ago

Alright, giving this one more shot: anyone have any idea why my left Canon has slowed only when in "aim and fire" mode and not in reset mode. The Canon normally slows for you to aim, but mine suddenly developed a really, really slow motion for aiming, so much so that is annoying to wait.

I have plans in cracking open the gear box today to clean and grease, but I'm hoping one of you might know of a less invasive and time consuming fix.


#3051 4 months ago

Thanks guys. I'll look at the wires. Haven't replaced the harness. I'll look into that too.

#3056 4 months ago

Just to help everyone, I found a good fix for the left canon going slow. I found that many were mentioning opening the gear box. Mine was just the shaft of the canon. It is literally a 15 minute fix.


1. Disconnect left opto and canon light under the pf and feed a good portion of the wire toward the upper PF. You need this to get the cannon out without soldering.

2. Take a picture of the underside, noting the positioning of the canon. Don't need this, but you never know, right?

3. Remove the 1/4" screw and washer at the base of the shaft.

4. Lower the PF and shimmy the post out, being sure that the wires do not become taut. The post will make it out with a little slack left. Mine did, ayway.

5. The shaft will have black gunk that is pretty tough to get off. I used fast orange pumice hand wash on a paper towel. Cleaned it in a minute! I used the same with a stick rag thing I have for the hole.

6. Greased the hole and edge of the hole with bearing grease.

7. Reassemble.

My canon is now like new without an annoying process of cracking open the gear box. Hope this saves someone time!

Dirty post:
IMG_20190614_145034 (resized).jpg

Clean post:
IMG_20190614_150111 (resized).jpg

#3058 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

If you have to do this you already know what the issue is...
FWIW, I personally wouldn't do it this way and those of you that follow my posts already know I am very detail oriented; I would remove the cannon and wiring from the game (4 screws + 3 connectors), then work on the mechanical stuff out of the game since I would likely be using strong solvents to remove all the old grease and wouldn't want to risk getting any of it on my playfield.
Of course I would them tumble all the metal parts to get them shiny and new looking as well
At the end of the day it's your machine and it's entirely up to you on how you want to work on it.
The following aren't my pictures but if ou are going to take it apart to clean and re-grease it, this is what the parts should look like before you put it back together:

I'd prefer your method, but I prefer 15 minutes over hours. I also prefer not to take things apart if I don't have to. To each their own, but I prefer more play time!

#3075 4 months ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I’ve been steadily reassembling my game today. Can’t wait to get it done!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Be sure to get protectors for the alpha ramp. It gets the shit beat out of it pretty quickly.

3 weeks later
#3163 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinless:

What could cause the flipper coils to lock on for a few seconds when you turn the game on?
It’s blown F103, F112 and F11 in the past, but I’m not sure if it’s related. I put new LED’s in today and it looks like a lot of my flashers are not working. I just tested the fuses and they all appear to be good at the moment.
Edit: flashers are working in attract mode

I'd be checking the flipper transistors if your flippers are locking on. Check the manual for fuse lines if they are blowing. Sounds like you have some board work ahead.

1 week later
#3192 86 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I like variety but without a doubt STTNG is absolutely LOADED compared to just about any other game made except maybe TZ. But it's more than that because the theme integration with custom call-outs from so many cast members as well as the great layout and rewarding shots make it pretty special. It amazes me that more people don't appreciate it more but then again I'm happy that someone looking to buy one can do so without paying IJ, TAF, AFM, or MM or even WH20 and SS now, prices.

It gets a bad name because of outlanes and maintenance. The game is really hard for newbs and moderates because the outlanes are crazy unforgiving and require good nudging. Plus, it's almost impossible to find one on route that is playable. They are always set up horribly and often malfunctioning/broken. I'm just lucky I was in the arcade when it came out so that when I started collecting, I knew how good the game is.

#3193 86 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I replaced my stock sub with this today:
amazon.com link »
In short, it was an easy add. The mounting holes lined up and the spade connectors matched the original. But, it added virtually nothing in terms of bass, which I guess is to be expected. I supposed one needs to alter the back box to cabinet volume, which isn’t the clearest thing to do on DCS with stock backbox speakers.
Given that, I hooked my 10” Polk sub up to the game. Man, it really adds some bass. But even it that, it seems like mids are missing.
I may modify the sound board to alter the back box to cabinet volume, to see if I pick up mids.
I understand it’s not a high end sound system, but I think i can make it better...

I've played around with pin audio quite a bit and have come to the conclusion that the way the older pins are designed is never going to give you the mids that you want. The backbox is poor design for sound, and the speakers are small. The sub doesn't use a crossover, so it always going to muddy. Even if you got rid of the mud, it is angled to toward the floor. I just hook up a powered sub to my older games and adjust it to fit in the best I can. That makes the sound twice as good, which leaves me with little to complain about. Even the newer games lack good audio and are often hacked with amps etc, with the exception of TNA. I'd love to play TNA in a home environment to hear how killer the sound is.

1 week later
#3216 79 days ago

LCD on dots for me. Looks great.

#3217 79 days ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Ok cool, yeah I was starting with Warp 4 instead of starting missions like I had been. I was working on figuring out the Picard Maneuver and got my wrap up to 9.

That's where all the quick high points are in the game. Launch stays up in the pops for millions and increasing multipliers. One warp holds multipliers to get you closer to that extra ball. Warp 6 lights super spinner (right inlane) for a ridiculous amount of points per spin. Warp eight lights another extra ball. The extra balls can help you to plunge two locks if you're not having a good lock day, assuming you have plunge 3 to mb turned off (which you should). If locks are going well, plunge for modes. All the while, start modes in between when needed.

I do not time out modes and legitimately try to complete them. I've only finished it all twice taking this path, and to me, it is the most epic achievement in pinball. It is just so damn satisfying. (You do need a sub hooked up to qualify for epic status.)

2 weeks later
#3305 61 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Thanks for all the advice and insights folks. I decided to pass on the STNG because higher resolution photos showed more playfield wear than I am comfortable with for the price they are asking.
Their techs seemed quite sharp and knowledgeable. I floated a bid by the owner for a playfield swap but he would rather not go that route. Playfield swap and color DMD would have pushed the price to at least $9,500.
Kinda bummed/exhausted from the exercise. I see several for sale here on pinside that seem to have nice playfields but I’d have to start over with asking about condition, service, etc.
I’m starting to think I just don’t have the chops to go into used pin purchases informed enough or skilled enough to avoid disasters and money pits of one form or another.
Maybe I should stick to new ones.

I think you just went the wrong route. From my experience, 9.5/10 collectors are beyond honest, and most are more than willing to help you after purchase if you need some specific help. I've only been semi-burned once, and I should have known better. Businesses are the worst to buy from as they must make a profit.

You have the benefit of having reviews and opinions on pinside sellers, so find a game in good condition from a reputable seller and buy it. It's really that easy. Buying local is pretty close to the same. Ask around. Get to know the collectors around you. Again, pinball people are almost all awesome and really enjoy the transaction process. Who else wants to listen to you in the flesh talk about your passion for a game with crazy sewers and opto controls? If you think it will just be 20 minutes to pick up a game, think again! Good times.

#3309 61 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Whoah. That’s quite a burn. Mad respect that you can manage to not be bitter about it.
I’m in NC. I see one in the market place in SC. I might ask about it and maybe do a road trip.
I have zero local friends in the hobby and have only lived here for a couple of months so I’m not in or familiar with any of the groups or anything like that.
Been to a few local barcades, but not when the owners are around.
But I should do a new topic for that rather than hijack this thread anymore.

Check Facebook for a local sellers group. There are general groups on there that are good too. Spend less time stressing about quality and more time finding quality people. I've also learned to avoid nit picking pins. A little wear is always there... I've only turned down a couple buys. Most I just play a couple games, look it over and take it home. I always find a few minor issues, but I don't care.

1 week later
#3354 51 days ago

Clean dirty sections that you need to service with alcohol; otherwise, if it's ugly, dirty and ain't broke, don't fuck with it and play the damn game!

#3367 50 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I take a little more pride in my work than that.
This is an photo transistor board I recently took in...
I wasn't even going to work on it on my repair bench being this dirty.
[quoted image]
This is what it looked like when I shipped it out after replacing one of the LM339s...
You are just not going to get the board this clean with alcohol alone.
[quoted image]

I take pride in less work more pinball.

#3371 50 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

The ball is only supposed to go into the ship when lock is lit above the Delta ramp. Unless that light above the delta ramp is lit, the ball is supposed to be diverted back down the wire.

Yeah, the game is a little weird with lighting lock. The lock at the ramp will light after lighting lock the first time. Depending on how often balls have been locked, it may when you light lock the second time. The neutral zone lock will only light if lock has not been lit fit a few games, and sometimes the light will not illuminate.

#3396 45 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

My game has apparently adopted a nasty random bug where it will decide to launch the ball when the right flipper is hit. I have flipper launch turned off and 99% of the time this doesn't happen but one of our league players told me it happened to him last month and it did it to me last night. I've stood and hit the right flipper with the ball sitting in the launcher dozens and dozens of time in testing and not been able to reproduce it. Everything else on the game works fine and I've never seen the left flipper cause this.

I had this issue but more frequently and mostly on ball one. If your cannons aren't registered as parked after the boot/reset test, that button launch can happen. My Canon shafts were randomly sticking and causing that issue. I simply stretched the springs and the shafts stopped sticking. Check your cannons while diagnosing.

#3406 43 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I swear my STTNG is cursed. I fix 2 things and then 2 other things start acting up. It’s non-stop.
The background music is cutting out randomly. Other sound effects are still working, but it’s oddly silent while you’re playing. A few seconds later the music comes back.

Press the sound ROMs firmly into the board.

3 weeks later
#3492 22 days ago

Achieved 9.9, fought the borg twice and was one bloody shot away from touring the space mansion (earnestly playing each mode). I’ve only done all of this twice and was praying for a third. Damn I love this game. It and shadow are so damn epic.

Oh, there was one "first" during this game. I smacked two balls in a row up the side ramp during mb, creating a lineup to get into the ship!

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