Quoted from trilogybeer:
Beer drinkers mod.
Ok. Time to share there beer drinker.
Where'd you get them?
Quoted from bigdaddy07:
I found the perfect spot for one right above the third flipper. Put a green led in there and it really makes the Borg ship pop.
I don't believe you... I don't see any green on the borg ship. Infact I dont even see a borg ship in that photo.
I think I'm still running old FW.... so I don't have any options to change.
One of these days...
I don't think mine has that plastic installed either as I've seen the ball in there once or twice.
If someone has one being unused temporarily or could scan a trace of one into the computer... I can get some made.
Right. I wouldn't.
At a minimum; I'd need someone to pull this plastic - then put it on a white sheet of paper and trace with a pen/pencil... including the holes. Then you can either scan it (if you have it) or mail it to me.
Once I get it; I should be able to reproduce this within a small margin of error.
Quoted from ibjames:
ugh.. I'm starting to feel like I shouldn't have bought one of these and stuck to video games... now it shoots balls from the starting point like crazy, the switch tests fine. I really thought I would be able to figure these things out if there was a problem, I have a feeling I'll never be able to play with the glass on with this thing
You actually picked the worse game to cut your teeth on... STNG is one of the most complex and problematic machines out there.
I don't have any advise... other than try to take the emotion out of the troubleshooting. Eventually; you'll either learn or find someone who can teach you.
Ok. That is almost a great an example of a crapped out Trough connector.
On my STNG; I had issues... and it turned out the connectors supplying power to both boards were shot.
IIRC, I ended up removing the IDC connector supplying power to the detector board and re-crimping fresh new connections.
I didn't do mine "right" because I left the IDC connector in place for the signals... and only replaced the power connectors.
To verify; with your PF slide out and resting on the lockdown bar... wiggle the idc connector while in that switch test. If I'm right; you'll see the optos go wonky again.
This would be supported by the fact that the right flipper is directly over the trough and is "vibrating" the loose power connections.
That PBL tool... is good for one or two connectors.
Which is why I almost always go for broke and install new crimp style connectors using this tool:
The upper flipper should be tackled after you get the opto board working right...
I'm about 90% sure it has nothing to do with the optos... nor the eddy board as neither should affect the flippers.
I'd look to make sure the flipper is "plugged" it... and that it's power connectors are "burnt".
At that point; I'd verify the power is there... and driver transistor is ok. The fact that is doesn't move at all indicates to me that you have a power/transistor issue.
It's not just me... everyone I've discussed this with tends to agree. The plastic tool just fails after a few connections.
But; it's possible my Neanderthal paws are making it worse.
...eek... I have a friend with the same issue.
AFAIK; the only option is to remove the mylar, replace the insert, apply waterslide decal, and reinstall mylar.
We haven't done his yet... may never do it given the amount of work ... and likelihood of a screw up.
Maybe someone else has a suggestion.
I did this once on my star trek plastics and the oven got too hot and the paint did stick to the glass.
So; you need to be careful for sure.
That backboard... how hard was it to install?
I have one for my machine; but after looking at it; I kinda felt is was too much work.
Great info thanks. I was thinking the same thing... I have a new PF ... but don't have any immediate plans swapping my PF.
I took advantage of the BrExit Euro and ordered a STNG Apron from Pinball-Dreams.com.
Easy to install and came with printed instructions. You have to transfer your existing rails and hardware from your old apron; but was still easy to do. I decided to wire mine into the OPTO 12V's... and I had to bump my 3A SB to 4A SB as I also have ColorDMD installed. They don't recommend the opto 12V; it was just right there by the apron and easy for me to splice into. I'll probably live to regret that decision.
Quoted from Mocean:
Does anyone have extra plastics? Looking for: Slings, Ferengi, and the curved plastic that sits below the advance in rankplastic/lamps. Thanks.
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=1865 for the slings
Quoted from Mocean:
Honestly, this game is a lifetime keeper for my family but I don't see paying to clear the PF or going to all the trouble of stripping it to do so. The protector seems inevitable for me...
LOL. I think the protectors are a waste of money... but can see the appeal. I wouldn't really want even a small ledge over the switches / etc.
I have a mirco PF in storage... and maybe when I retire (not for 20years); I'll consider swapping the PF. I agree the swap look daunting; and that's really the rub for me. I have no problems at all clear coating a PF. Done it too many times with great results.
Quoted from per3per3:
- Are the "hallmark" ships still available somewhere?
I can build you a KBOP if you need one:
The best thing to do is either use a translated german site... or really contact pinball-dreams here via IM.
He'll get you a realistic shipping cost and you can paypal him the amount in euros.
That's what I did and got mine without a hitch.
Is the resting position the same on both flippers?
I've only had this problem when the resting positions were off. There is a alignment hole in the PF near the tip of the flippers.
DS9 is "ok" the reality is I still feel the same as I did when I was a kid.
DS9 is very soap opera like... with lots of character arch which is good. But it still feels slow compared to TNG.
My issue with Enterprise is they really tried to take too many "story lines" from the previous shows and tried to make it work in the show.
I really did enjoy Enterprise as a ST show... but that intro was just plain wrong.
I've worked chronologically thru TOS, TNG and am now on DS9 on Netflix.
I find I like DS9 better now than I did as a late teen... but it still feels too soapy to me.
I'm actually looking forward to Voyager... as I missed several seasons because of UPN not being broadcast while I was in college.
Don't order a kit. Look at the game and order LEDS you want.
I don't think I have ever bought a kit; it's fun to implement your own lighting and probably cheaper too.
You'd have to ask cointaker... but IIRC they didn't use to provide instructions. I think it was up to the customer to figure it out.
I would not recommend a resistor. Inductive feed back from the motor may have adverse effects on the laser diode.
Laser diodes are temperamental beasts in general. While developing the Stern Star_Trek Laser upgrade... I think I burnt out 2 or three.
I tend to agree... but the Backbox is def a current hog at 100% bulb.
I believe I left the faces as incandescent... but used LEDs for highlighting the ships/tractorbeam/etc on the BG.
I currently have my GI at 100% blub... but have converted most of the start mission indicators to LED. Those look pretty rad as LED (warm white).
I need to redo my BG LEDs because I used early LEDs which have dimmed considerably over the last few years. Glad that dude is out of business tbh.
When was the last time the Optos were replaced on your game?
Mine had original optos which has yellowed with age... to the point where the emitting optos weren't consistently outputting enough light to trigger the detector. This led me to repeatedly try and troubleshoot optos. Eventually; I decided screw it and replaced all my opto leds with new "blue" optos and haven't had an issue since.
If you suspect these optos are orginal and are yellow/brown colored... do yourself a favor and replace them with new ones. You'll sleep much better with this machine being on location.
The best way to do this... is DIY:
I did it... and have worked on one of the star's pinball machine twice now. One to remove the original batteries... after drilling the lock. and One to install Titan silicon rubber kit.
Given it's the 30th STNG anniversary... "in theory" you should be able to get everyone's autograph at one show.
Quoted from Boat:
The drop target is down when this happens, the ball usually rattles around that area and pops back out. As I mentioned it happens on the launch/re-load as well as normal lane shots.
Re-check that drop target.
I had the same issue and was very confused at TPF'16 as I couln't get the damn thing to load right.
After about an hour of debug; I figured out that my drop assemblies screw holes were stripped and the assembly would fall partially out due to gravity. This cause their to be a shallow "hole" that removed the inertia of the ball and it would fail to actual transition to the subway.
Putting some toothpics and glue in the stripped hole; made the assembly flush against the drop target hole... which allowed the ball to transition into the subway like it's suppose to.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:
Perfect fix for any stripped out screw hole.
LOL - agreed; but hard to do when it's "live" at a convention with people waiting to play in your booth.
I need to pull that assembly back out and redo the screw holes with wood glue and more toothpicks.
I think I used SuperGlue and a bamboo skewer at the show.
So... basically do this while the wife is out of town; or before you disconnect the washer perm... before replacement. Got it.
I posted a new thread about an possible upcoming popcap set I'm thinking of getting made for the STNG machine.
Please stop by:
and give me your opinion
I wouldn't play shot-gun debug like this Plunger.
I think your issues are related to the ColorDMD ... putting a high load on the game.
The other thing is It's probably gotten warmer in your neck of the woods which can lead to more problems on a marginally bad voltage rail.
I'd look at the 5V and 12VDC rail to see if either are marginal. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1013-kahrus-circuits/00092-wpc-power-fix-daughterboard is one way of trying to solve this problem.
If you haven't had your caps on these rails replaced... they are probably leaking too much and/or causing too much ripple into the MPU board which could explain what you are seeing.
Sounds like a Power supply filtering issue to me.
Has the Soundcard been re-capped? What about the supply rails into the soundcard?
I've always wanted to research the necessary digikey part list for the molex connectors and pins so that i could diy a replacement loom.
Never got around to it.
There has been talk that hacking in wires make the whole assembly more fragile; but I think that was only if you attempted to repair only at the broken wire. I think you are implying that you cut out a few inches and slice in new wire which may be ok.
For me; I just replaced the whole loom on both cannons and haven't had a issue since.
I think both of mine rotate on startup.
Mine use to cycle several times; but then I replaced the plungers which had become magnetic and they only cycle once now.
(my plungers were sticking "up" because of the magnetizm)
Could one the coil wires be broken in the twist area of the harness where only one or two of the wire strands are still connected but no strong enough to provide a full pulse to the cannon?
Calling attention to a product being made in Germany and distributed here in North America. This set of 18 laser etch decals will dress up the stainless steel VUK housing as brackets used on Star Trek: The Next Generation
Here's a quick picture:
more pictures in the thread:
Direct link to purchasing for North America:
Calling attention to my Pre-Order survey for my new STNG Popcaps which I hope to be offering for sale in the near future.
I'm collecting survey data to give me an idea of what configurations will be popular so I can ensure I have adequate stock of those configurations.
Please fill free to submit your opinion. I will use the data collected to build inventory of the Undercap colors and to ensure I have enough LEDs to offer with the kit. This isn't a "pre-order"; more of an "i am interested" list. If you provide me with your email address; I'll offer a coupon for this product as a "thank you" and would only be valid for a week or two after product launch.
If you want to see more pictures (or comment on the caps); please checkout my thread here on Pinside:
Quoted from Ordinal:
If anyone can offer some advice, the right cannon often won't fire when I pull the trigger.
Sounds like a cannon loom issue to me. You might want to order a replacement kit or follow the advice of others here about testing for broken wires in the loom.
Quoted from Ordinal:
Also, the top diverter is not diverting. It is very resistant to triggering. I've tried lubricating the arm, because that's all I really have in the way of parts.
Have you taken it completely apart; cleaned the diverter where it mates with it's sibling?
I'm pretty sure I took my whole diverter out of my machines; and removed all traces of dirt, oil, etc. then re assembled.
Quoted from Ordinal:
Finally, the left lane return's eddy sensor is extremely weak. It will only trigger on one side of the resistor, and even then the ball has to be touching the wire.
There isn't much too that eddy circuit. You might need to get a replacement sensor or send yours out to get re-done.
Since the eddy sensor has a disconnect-able "sense" inductor (the "resistor" thing you talked about)... swap it with your other sensor on the right return lane. If the sensitively issue follows the inductor; you can eliminate the eddy sensor board and look to see if the sensor wires are tight in the IDC connector.
If it stays with the board; then you may have a cracked solder or some other defect on the board.
Check the trough for divots which would allow a ball to hang in the trough.
I'd also check to make sure the balls didn't get magnetized for some reason.
Look nice to say the least.
Mine is at best Player's Quality... some dumbarse fiber-glassed one of the ramps on the PF so there is some Fiberglass in the back orbit. I haven't torn it apart to assess the issue as it still plays good.
Are you going to HAAG in Houston in Oct?
If so; I can bring my stng products to the show if you are interested.
Keep in mind; I'm nearly out of stock on the purple WingLEDs... so if you want a set in that color; you need to order now as I don't intend to restock anything other than Red in the future.
It was explained somewhere... but I forget specifically...
I think the officer requires a buy in... or maybe you need to actually get to a specific rank. I just don't remember.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:
Maybe I can find someone at the Games workshop store to paint my ships,
paint my borg ship and cannons to match each other.
IMHO; the hallmark upgrades are better for Klingon and Romulan ships. I personally still need to install/do my Romulan ship.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:
I assume that is where I would find info about their work, would love to have them do the paint work if I can't source it locally. At least the ship comes off easy enough.
No. L7 on ipdb is stock.
You have to apply the ghosting patch separate from available roms as Mr Personality actively trolls for modified roms.
Quoted from pezpunk:
i hang out and chat with him, and give him tips, and then sometime between 1am and 3am he leaves. he just raves about what a great game it is, and has no interest in playing any of my other games. he's getting pretty good ... he can make Final Frontier occasionally, but I don't think he's done it with 4 artifacts yet. he also hasn't made warp 9. but he's definitely improving!
hum... sounds like a opportunity to get some more space for another game.
"loan" it to him for a while.
Quoted from Bendit:
Do these optos go bad often?
I have never had a flipper opto need cleaning... much less go bad. The flipper optos are different products than the standard optos. With standard optos; the epoxy discolors with age (changing from a blue to orange tint)... leading to eventual IR transfer issues. the Black U-channel optos used in the flipper mech are industry proven parts that were used back in the day for every ball mouse made; so they aren't generally known to be sources of problems.
But that shouldn't mean it doesn't happen.
I'd check for binding on the button's assembly first then clean.. then if it still happens; check for binding while stuck up.
Else it could be a cold solder joint on the relevant boards.
I'm going to look at using some #2-56 screws to mount to a new plastic. Should be cast metal; so a #2-56 tap would work.
Probably be a post-Christmas project.
Quoted from mavantix:
Hmm, maybe Zitt will figure out how to put some lights in the Eaglemoss model for us! It would be pretty cool if the nacelles glowed light blue! Hint hint zitt
Quoted from Cheeks:
Exactly who I was thinking of since I have MULTIPLE of his mods, but I wasn't gonna call him out like that (although I do agree with you).
No worries. I was already planning on looking into it when my ship arrives.
My biggest concern of course is that it's diecast metal... that makes it difficult to light up.
It does look like the nacelles lenses are plastic in the pictures... if so; would be a good candidate if the nacelles can be detached from the ship.
Quoted from Paulb:
I have one for sale
I'm considering getting one. Not to install; because my Translite has all the actors signatures.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:
If you ever decide to part with it ... PLEASE contact me and let me know what you want for it
I bought the glass from CPR last night.
Right now I'm thinking of making some Art for the arcade using it...
I think if I ever get in a situation of having to sell anything... I'd sell the game first; with the glass and the translite when I'm just about homeless.
Quoted from mavantix:
What would be awesome is if you could scan it, and digitally isolate the signatures, then print them out on a clear insert we could layer in between our translites, so we could all have the signatures too!
Why the heck would I do that?
The whole point to having the autographs is to have the memories of standing in line to get the autographs.
Would anyone REALLY pay to have digitally reproduced signatures? Is that even legal?
I have an awesome memory of one of the actors... that has led to TWO trips to see that actor and his personal machine.
First one to drill the lock, remove the original OEM batteries, and the next to install a Titan Pinball rubber kit.
Not saying that's the norm; but that's kind of the point.
Urban is suppose to be on the Star Trek Cruise... I hear he's a pinhead; so I'm looking forward to his reaction when I ask him to sign the Pro translite I will have in my possession.
There were some suggestions here:
basically; you'd want to bypass the OCD for the Hallmark KBOP.
One of these days; I'm going to "get around" to buying an OCD for my STNG... Just haven't been overwhelmed with a desire to join the crowd. I still like the incandescent look in many games (in GI).
Quoted from radium:
Mine bounces off the metal backstop somehow and does not fall in the hole most of the time. Really annoying and I'm having a tough time telling why it's bouncing off.
Check to ensure you top drop target assembly is secure and tight.
At TPF in a recent year; mine wouldn't autolaunch into the top hole because the assembly wasn't secure and the top drop surface wasn't high enough in the PF hole. The result is that the ball lost all of it momentum trying to get out of the drop hole that it wouldn't reach the rear hole behind the drop.
If that fixed it great; BUT, please make sure the screws which mount the assembly to the underside of the PF are tight.
If they are; you fixed it.
If not; you'll need to tighten the assembly to the PF and then re-adjust the drop target.
On my machine; that drop assembly has been removed so often that the wood had begun to strip.
Does anyone have a picture of the attachment points for the launch habitrail on STNG?
I've been test playing a lot of STNG for a new project I'm working on and noticed that my right cannon is regularly hitting the habitrail when I try to hit the neutral zone during Battle Simulation. I recently took apart my right side ramps to install my POP caps and thinking I may have reassembled it incorrectly. Maybe be as simple as not putting the washer in the right place. This "problem" wasn't there before my disassembly.
Quoted from radium:
I had the playfield up... dropped a screw... 90 minutes later and I still can't find it. I heard it bounce off the subway and that was it. This has got to be the worst possible machine to own if you have arthritis.
Check the woofer on the bottom of the cabinet. I can't tell you how many times I've had a screw drop and attach itself to the speaker.
Pin_Guy ... many thanks. I have the large washer ontop which might be the problem. I'll move it to the bottom.
Also; I don't have spacer between the two habit trails. It hasn't since I've owned it. At least that's what I recall... will go check the machine shortly.
I just posted about my Rear GI lighting project for STNG:
for those that may be interested.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:
I seem to recall there is a lot of positional movement to these rails and it took some time to get them positioned properly.
I moved the large washer to be between the plastic and the bottom habitrail mount and it "fixed" it. Just a small movement in the Z direction was enough to get the ball to clear the habitrail.
Sounds like the fuse which supplies opto power gave up.
Measure them as good out of the circuit - with a DVM.
Daymn... That stuff is expensive.
I'll look at it in greater detail after Apr 15th. ;D
Quoted from Pin_Guy:
The kit pictured is in a really nice felt lined metal box and was manufactured in the late 70's or early 80's; this was one of the manufacturers sample kits they they would provide to the larger repair facilities. I consider myself very fortunate to have acquired this kit.
I'd say. I'd love to find one on ebay one day.
Quoted from SaminVA:
I agree and I happen to have a video for that too.
» YouTube video
Yuck. I'd have replaced those LEDs too... The crap brown color is a good indication of poor IR transmission as the Epoxy has "yellowed" due to emitting IR radiation for 30ish years. It's cheap at $0.74/ea insurance policy.
They should be this nice Blue/purple hue
The main reason I mention this is I was having a lot of issues with my Optos and it wasn't until I went in an replaced every one of them with new ... did my flaky opto issues go away.
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:
Topside tear down...
Blitzburgh99... are you planning on doing some PopBumper maintenance on your machine before you put it back together?
I'd recommend a set of STNG Popcaps, EVOs, and some PopBumper Bodies if you are. I have some clear and red popskirts coming from Pinball.Center (hopefully ships on Monday)... so you might be interested on those as well.
Quoted from PTHermes:
Ordered some caps and bridges; wow does a Marco order add up quick!!
For being 25 years old, the board is hack-free, so I guess I can't complain.
Geebuz... how much is the Marco markup on that?
I understand the ease of ordering from a pinball supplier... but I'd almost always recommend going with a true Electronic Device supplier like Mouser or Digikey.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:
remove all the balls and look at your switch edge test; any opto that is not closed will require attention
I'd also check the IDC connectors at the trough in switch edge test by wiggling the harness.
On my STNG; the IDC connector's displacement grove was just plain worn and the wires were making intermittent connection leading to "multi-ball".
I've never personally had to replace the transistors (receivers)... but I imagine if you have a bad surge event; it could fry the photo transistors.
Quoted from tktlwyr:
I replaced ALL opto pairs and have ZERO issues.
I sorta agree. I has so many opto issues that I replaced my brown LED emitters with new blue ones because the difference in IR output is much higher.
I do think replacing the phototransistor is a little excessive; but given how cheap they are; I can't argue to aggressively.
Quoted from radium:
My right canon rotates and then weakly vomits the ball, seemingly in the same position each time. Happens about 80% of the day time. The trigger does work and shoots the ball normally. Weird.
I'm not sure there is anything wrong if does it after a full rotation.
Mine does something similar as a "time out" for not pulling the trigger manually.
I think it's part of the software to autoplung after so long.
Others can chime in if they know differently.
Quoted from meSz:
Anyone add any LEDs to the small [Klingon] ship left side ramp? It has two lights under the wings!
Yes it's been done... but I personally think my product is better (so you don't have to look at the bulbs) at all. You can find more detail in this thread:
BUT, you'd have to upgrade yours to the halmark version. ;D
Quoted from Mocean:
I picked a different color, and my only regret is that they could have been brighter had I chosen the white.
Have you tried turning up the brightness knobs under the wings? There are two tiny variable resistors that should allow you to blind yourself.
Quoted from Hammerhead:
Agreed! It challenges your soldering skills but looks great once its done!
If that is a challenge... then DO NOT try the DEST Enterprise mod.
I honestly never considered the STNG WingLed mod to be complex... but I guess it is if you don't feel comfortable with a soldering iron to begin with.
Quoted from Mocean:
Lighting the Romulan ship scared me, too.
I have a Romulan BOP pre-modded in box... for years... and I haven't installed it.
I'm still trying to decide how I want to do mine... and, IF I want to do something special.
I think it's time to go pull mine out of the box and see what the original modder did.
Announcing a soft launch of a new product I've been working on for a few months... I finally got a product I was happy with so I'm making them available to all Star Trek pinball owners.
This product originally started as an embellishment for the Data East Star Trek machines to go on top of the "Red Alert" flashers:
This Data East kit comes with 4 "Red Alert" Decals for 7.49USD w/ free shipping if ordered alone:
I then realized the kits could be expanded to the Williams Star Trek: The Next Generation.
On the STNG; the kit only comes with a single Red Alert decal for the beta ramp; so is considerably cheaper at 2.49USD.
These are in stock now and available for immediate shipping.
I'm waiting for Tuesday to deliver some smt parts for my rendition of the wingleds for romulan bird of prey. I'd like to thank pinguy for giving me the incentive to look at the "pre-modded" Romulan ship I bought from another vendor... I took one look and knew it wouldn't work. Those bone strokes drilled holes in the back of the wing and the nacelles to wire in what looks like a single LED then put green heatshrink around it to "cover" the damage.
I designed a new circuit to replace the two incandescent bulbs with green leds and added a place for a center white led sorta like this picture:
I'll post pictures later when I verify functionality.
Logic would dictate something connected to J116 which according to page 3-24 (manual) is +12V.
I think 12V also runs the optos which would explain the autolaunch of balls. Maybe F114 or F116... but I'm guessing F116 which is TP1 and LED7. If TP1 does not have 12V and Fuse 116 is good; then you probably have a bad BR5. According to WPC DMD schematics.
Quoted from radium:
Hey thanks! I emailed them to ask if hey would ship US. Will PM you if not.
If it's pinball.center... They defiantly will not ship to US.
Well documented here:
I am a distributor for some of their products... and I'm going to be finalizing an order with them in the next few days.
Now is the time if you want me to add some lane guides from them.
Ok. This weekend was my birthday weekend... I spent it making my own version of the Hallmark Romulan Bird of Prey for my personal STNG.
I went and looked at the pre-modded, supposedly plug-in installable in my machine and quickly realized it wasn't up to snuff. The other guys' mod was basically a single LED heatshrinked to each nacelle. That wasn't up to my quality.
Using PinGuy's posts (above) as a reference... I went all out. Early last month; I designed a Romulan WingLED PCB which would take 6.3VAC GI in... and the flashlamp ground to provide interactive gameplay. Basically; the nacelles stay dimly lit when the romulan flasher is off. But, when the flasher comes on; the nacelles go to full 20mA brightness (two per nacelle) and the white LED comes on to give a physical implementation like this screen grab from Memory Alpha:
Remember; the Romulan Bird of Prey looks like this as stock from Hallmark:
After taking my BOP completely apart and installing the WingLEDs; I made the executive decision that I was going to paint mine as a nod to the original series with an actual Bird of Prey paint job. I painted all surfaces of the BOP while it was apart. Here's a Sneak peak:
Once I had the BOP paintjob complete; I reassembled it. I then realized that I wanted the BOP more "green" than perl-green (as stock from Hallmark) so I mixed my own airbrush transparent green-black cover to seal the bop paint and give it more of a Romulan feel. No; I didn't use any photo's as an idea for what looked good... I just kinda went all out which my own color scheme. Here's the final comparison:
One final view to match the original reference shot:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/52968060@N00/42798112860/sizes/l/ (<--- Click me for high rez picture)
I still need to order a new flasher dome from PBL... and probably a Green flasher from CometPinball... then I'll be ready to install it in my machine.
So; what does everyone think? Worth the extra effort? Would ya'll like to see a blog write up documenting how I painted the ship? suggestions?
I finally got to install my custom Painted personal Romulan bird of Prey with prototype Romulan WingLEDs...
In this picture I wasn't able to capture the green flash bulb going off... but you can see the white LED lit. I'll have to try to do some fancy tripod shots to capture the flash sequence.
More high rez pictures at my Flickr feed:
at the bottom of the page.
The WingLED circuit leaves the nacelles dimly lit (powered from GI) when the flash isn't active.
When the romulan flash goes off; the nacelles go to full brightness and the white LED comes on and stays on for about 400mS after flash turns off.
I've put the Pinball-Decal's romulan ship up for sale in my shop:
if anyone is interested in it.
Quoted from ajfclark:
I think the previous owner took advantage of that in the past.
Sorry; not high enough rez picture... does the machine have those awesome popcaps? if not; it might not be a good idea to show the wife...
Oh; and my advice... don't start getting autographs on the translate... that can be expensive.
worth it; only if you are a fan who enjoys conventions.
Quoted from Staf:
i have gone in test mode , and they dont light up
Also check the Flasher menu.
I know when designing my
the Borg ship has a flasher mechanism in addition to standard "lamp" matrix mechanism.
All Pinball-mods.com products are 18% off - Must use discount code: BF2018.
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Thinkgeek's site is failing to keep up with the web traffic.
I can't order my wants... giving up.
Quoted from lyonsden:
That is a great idea. I'll see if I can figure out a unique combination of flashers/motors that will let me detect one/both of those events (and then something to signal the canceling of them to return the LED ramp lights to "normal" behavior.)
Another idea I'd like to do is to use the pinduino to just drive LEDs in the Borg ship. It would be great to have it green (never understood why it has blue film in its cutouts) in normal play, and then flash red when hit in multiball.
On my STNG RearGI project; I connected up to the lamp and Flasher matrix with an opto matrix. On that project; I made "blue" or "green" borg an option.
The Borg ship is blue because if you watch the episode; the "Type 3 ship" which is based on has blue "windows".
Nope to all questions.
I doubt you are going to find any populated PFs. Most smart people will see the project knowing that parting this title is not logical - just too good of a game that can command a really good price.
I have personally never had a Receiver go bad. The material used in my machine was probably everything but IR blocking (IE the black color) so it's unlikely the epoxy dome would become IR resistant. I don't think the emitters are usually black; maybe a trick of the camera... or mouser got lazy and used a photo from the receiver on an emitter.
Sadly; It's been several years (read 4+) since I replaced my emitters so I don't have an exact part number handy. I'd think any of these would likely work in our application:
Digikey IR 940nm Emitters
If you look at Digikey: QED123 is clearly pictured as having a light purple or bluish lens... so yeah; Mouser's picture is suspect. The datasheet backs this up: "clear, peach tinted, plastic". Black is NOT correct.
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:
Started playing with the Hallmark Enterprise ornament. Here is my question, and I tried to find some answers on here, but could not find anything conclusive. The box reads to attach to 5V - 6.5V light bulb chain.....so I connected it to my variable power supply with 6.5V. Well, the light are very dim and the LED on the top (navigation light) does not turn on at all. Once I increase the voltage to 12V, the lights had a good brightness, and the navigation light started to blink like it should. So it sounds like I could simply attach it to the GI 12V?
Not familiar with an Enterprise mod? You mean you're trying to connect to a Enterprise-D?
If so; Christmas Ornaments which plug into the string are ALWAYS AC devices... just like the Romulan and Klingon Bird of Prey. This means these devices almost always need the 6.3VAC GI circuit; not a DC power supply. If you don't connect these device an AC source; the lights won't blink. 12VDC seems way to much and will like burn everything out in the ship in short order. Additionally; to protect the ships from melt-down; you almost always need a serial resistor on the ships. I was looking for the original R.G.P thread on the ships; but can't seem to find it on google.
TBH; I'm kinda surprised you went with the decal on the popcaps instead of my STNG popcaps:
More detail in my thread:
I'd check to make sure your ramp isn't set to low causing the ramp flap to become a "ramp" which causes the ball to "jump" off the ramp and hit the underside of those plastics.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:
No, this game shipped with only 2 covers on the pops. There simply int room for 3; most folk cut one to fit and add it as it looks naked without one. Nothing should be hitting the ramp, is it possible something is not assembled correctly?
Correct. Mine had two; and I found a ?r.g.pinball? post or a website which descibed the process.
I agree; The pop bumper right shouldn't be hitting the ramp. I'm more inclined to beleive:
1) the Beta ramp is loose and is "flexing" on the pop bumper body scratching the ramp.
2) the pop bumper body is loose, scratching the ramp on "pop-ing".
Once you figure it out; I'll shamelessly recommend my PopCaps for your game. I personally think they make the pops SO much better and I even include a "cut-down cap" for under the beta ramp. ;D
Quoted from BCpinhead:
Thanks for the display recommendation , but how do I tell if I have a plasma dmd or a led one? When I look at it it looks like tiny LEDs?
You appear to have a original DMD (which bobukcat called plasma).
The original display was plasma based; in that the orange color is generated by electrics entergizing noble gasses in the display to create plasma and emit orange light.
Some people (myself included) prefer the ColorDMD products which include color dots for this game. This means that all the display animations were artistically colored. Example:
Most people prefer the LCD versions of colorDMD rather than the LED version because you set several different modes. Sadily; I can't find a video explaining / contrasting the different types of "dot" modes.
The hallmark is not dropin compatible with the gi.
You need current limiting at a min or it will burn out in hours.
There is an RGP thread available from google which talks about the series resistor values.
Yep, that's what I did, it's ~3.6VAC instead of the 6.3 I was expecting.
More than likely, your meter isn't a true RMS meter. Is it a cheapie?
Make sure the GI isn't in "dimming" mode.
If you're looking for a more modern solution; Please see:
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:
Is this likely a board issue or a connector issue? The one LED on the board is lit red so I have power.
Most likely a bad IDC connector. Look to see if the wires are not secure in the "pinch" points of the idc connector.
On mine; I had to actually replace that IDC connector with real crimp-on connectors so it would be rock solid. Given the game is over 20years old; the vibration has cause those IDC blade connection to just go bad.
Repairing the wire harness only works if you crimp on new connectors with brand new wire.
Soldering broken wire will only yield broken wire after so many turns of the turret.
Replace the entire harness with a brand new one... if one wire was broken; they all are suspect now.
I speak from experience.
I've toyed with the idea of having replacement looms made; but I'm not sure they'd sell honestly.
Where did you end up ordering replacement looms?
Appreciate the effort... but I don't think the LED looks better than the LCD.
Given you've put the camera at an angle; makes me suspect that the LED is just too bright.
Furthermore; What you haven't mentioned is that with the LED; you don't have the option of selecting different dot styles at tall. It's one and done. If you don't like the LED "dots" - too bad... your stuck with it.
STNG was the first LCD ColorDMD I purchased. I'm happy with my purchase and this video comparison really doesn't change that decision.
Sorry; that must have come across as criticism when it wasn't intended to be. I appreciate that you did video the two.
I'm sure there are some people out there that will as well as it will help them to decide.
Good job. Thumbs up!
Quoted from Pinless:
Let me know if you can tell what’s going on from the pics. Thanks in advance for any assistance you could provide.
I'm about 90% sure that hinge on the bottom "shelf" is suppose to be attached to the double standoff bracket above.
My game is still wrapped up from Pinball show; so I can't grab a shot of it myself. maybe someone else can.
Quoted from PinJim:
. This mornings fun was the “missing” pop bumper cap. I used the template from this website (thanks!!)
But... But... What about my popcaps? They come pre-cut to fit under that ramp. ;D
Quoted from pinball_ric:
Anyone got any idea's here? Maybe the all knowing pin_guy? A
I assume we are talking about the CPU board. I'm looking at:
Williams WPC DMD Schematics 16-9473
pp4 (WPC CPU Board Sheet 1 of 1) [Page 2]
I assume you are talking about R59 connected to U19D (LM339):
shows it's clearly at 1kresistor. Given it's in series to a comparator; I'd be surprised if it wasn't 1/4watt but I don't see any notes on that schematic page confirming that.
My father is in town today; and the damn STNG wouldn't work. I've done no debug yet...
The game resets withing 5mins... and the flippers reset the game in milliseconds of flipping either flipper.
My gut tells me that one of the power supplies is low. If anyone has any quick thought; I'm open to it.
The line voltage could be low; but the reality it is the same location it's been in for over a decade.
I'll methodically go thru the game checking for ripple and DC voltage on the game before moving on to more shot gunny type things.
IIRC; I don't think I've had to do any power supply work on this game so it's really due.
Did some work today on my STNG... got it working; but not 100% sure the reason.
Measured TP3 (12V) and got 11.88V. All other voltages looked ok.
Pulled PDB to look at solder joints. Reflowed BR1,BR2, C6 and C7. Replaced C2 as I had one on hand.
Reflowed Q2 (12Volt Vreg) and looked for any additonal cracked solder joints. Re-installed; resets gone - Voltage still at 11.88V. Connectors look good. Browned pins were already replaced a couple of repairs ago.
I'm about 90% sure the caps are original to this board and machine as I didn't actually see any fresh solder joints on the caps.
May go ahead and put together a cap kit for the board (Digikey) so that I have it on hand when I have more problems.
IPDB.orghas the rom file.
Do you know anyone with an EPROM programmer?
seems to be able to make them... have no affiliation. Random first link found by google search.
I could do it as well; but I'm not sure if I have stock of the right size EPROM.
Quoted from Pinless:
I could have my eprom re-programmed, but I’m not 100% sure it’s a software issue.
It probably isn't. I rarely hear of "corrupted" ROMs unless they are left "open" to light. Most have light blocking stickers that prevent them from going corrupt.
That said; I looked at my stash. Have smaller 15, 32, and 512k eproms… but no 27c040's (4Mbit) which the schematics claim U5 is.
Quoted from dashv:
Thinking of picking one of these up restored from a distributor. Anything I should be on the alert for/ask about specific to this game?
I'm assuming you'll be paying top dollar; hence Distributor:
Look for acid damage on CPU board. Look to see what rom the CPU board has. Confirm IPDB.ORG claims LX-7 is the latest CPU code. IF they have LEDs installed in Inserts; verify and ask if they've installed non-Ghosting patch to the ROM. Else look closely to make sure the LEDs in the machine aren't flickering.
Look for burned traces on PDB.
Look for PF damage at Neutral Zone hole and to a lesser degree; the back drop target.
Look for cracked/damaged Ramps at entrance holes. IE where the ball would cause most damage. Verify pricing on a ramp set before you go.
Common Mylar damage on the top "delta/insignia" insert between beta ramp entrance the side wall at the "Exit" of launch orbit. Verify the subway nexus is clean. It should be clear; not sliver. IE if dirty; it will look like silver mirror. Clean; it will be effectively clear. Ask when the PF was last fully shopped; IE teardown complete topside to clean; else you'll have to do it at some point. Ask them to show you the diode tieback solutionhas been implemented to avoid burning boards later..
Play several games. Verify no credit dot. Make sure rear drop target assembly is working right but using diagnostics to raise and drop the target under cpu control. Make sure assembly isn't "loose" from stripped out mounting holes.
Standard shop job; Is it clean? are the rubbers new? All lamps working. Look for cracked / damaged translite. Check for binding on both cannons.
Common to see cracked ART plastics. The one between the neutral zone and advanced rank is usually cracked at the tip.
Slingshot Plastics; usually have chips on the corners. Plastic near the back drop target is usually broken just behind the hole.
Plastics under the Side lane feeders usually are broken. If cracked; look before you go at CPR's STNG plastics. Know how much to expect to pay for a new set of plastics.
Test solenoids in diags to make sure all diverters are working.
Just my thoughts for initial quality checks. Remember; this machine can be a bear to maintain due to complexity. Be comfortable that the whole machine is "A++" if your paying A++ pricing. Remember to expect problems and be comfortable to fix.
Research pricing here in the market to get a range of prices. Superclean, no issue machine would fetch higher. A "flipped" dirty machine would fetch on the lower end. Again; Distributors will claim this been restored with all they did was wipe it down and throw some rubbers in it. All of the above will help you determine how much the distributor really did.
Quoted from Pinless:
Who else was going through his list thinking “yep, had that, fixed that, still broken, need to check that, oh crap I have that too” ?
Yet no upvotes.
I speak from experience.
I was just looking at my machine this weekend repairing the Power Driver Board. I had to do more adjustments to be back drop target a day or two because it was shotgunning after repairing it for "Credit dot". My Drop Target was "stripped" due to constant repair which came to a head a couple of years ago at TPF. The three wood screws were stripped and I had to find a toothpick or two for onsite repair before I did a real repair with wood glue when it got home.
I have burned traces which someone repaired. I repaired burnt connectors last time I had it on the bench - even installed new crimp on connectors. Still have broken side plastics and the plastic between neutral and advance rank. I repaired the rear plastic:
I still have ticking timebomb of tieback... lazy, it's 104 with 112 heat index right now. So no chance until winter- maybe.
My local friend has an STNG with the delta damage... and was saying how it bothered him greatly. His he said looked like someone took a Dremel to it. I'm seeing the mylar on mine beginning to bubble. So I know it's going to be a fix needed soon - hopefully an easy repair.
My machine was an Auction machine from unknown heritage - probably a routed game. I paid "top dollar" back in 2007... and it was dirty with all kinds of issues. I still haven't bravely tore down the machine for a real shop and clean. So; if I were paying a distributor "top dollar"; I'd expect him to do it for a "restored game".
Finally - I know this is going to be dismissed as "too expensive"... but given this machine's current market prices... and the fact that this was said:
Quoted from dashv:
it is a top dollar price and they are claiming a full work over on the machine and a 90 day warranty.
This right here should give you an immediate pause / WTF moment. You aren't getting a deal. You will be on the upper range of pricing. This game needs to be perfect. DO NOT TRUST the seller - I don't care who it is... unless is direct from HEP himself.
You need to discuss a refundable deposit to hold the game.
Pay Frontier airlines or some other cheap airline.
Go see the game and look at it with your own hands.
If it is an A++ game or you can get a more in line price... then pay them and watch them wrap it up for shipping or whatever.
Just don't "trust the seller"; you'll probably end up regretting it.
Re-Read that above... and seriously consider it. I can't tell you how many times we have heard "stories" and regrets.