Just joined the club. However, mine is having mainboard reboot/freeze issues. Figured I'd step in and introduce myself, and if anyone might have a clue as to what's going on, it's probably this crowd. Below is a link to my issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-boot-issue

I probably need to do that too. Martian Attack mode causes the VHold on my screen to be a little jumpy due to the vibrations.

Edit: I too have that broken plastic. Mine hasn't completely broke off, but is definitely cracked at the screw hole.

This discussion had me thinking. I mentioned that I had a VHold issue when there is a good amount of vibration (such as with Martians Attack). I can also create it by slapping the backbox. Does this sound like a cap issue, or do others run into this as well?

Bump, any thoughts?

Thanks for the input. I've done what you said by messing with the pot and holding it in my hand to test. It still had issues holding. Maybe just re-flowing solder on the board will help?

Same here. I recently restored (not to brand new quality, but replacing parts, major cleaning, etc.). I made sure that there was no friction and that the pin is perfectly centered in that hole so that if it was meant to go down, it would. I have a PotC that I restored as well, and this is a common issue with that machine if you don't keep the ship pin clean and centered. That said, I have modes that the pin will not go down until I hit a flipper. Just to make sure, I lifted the playfield and double checked everything. It appears that is just part of the mode.

No. The top angled piece that is welded is not factory, and it looks like someone put a door hinge on it. This is Part 2 in the diagram below. Also, if the "pivot point" (bend point) of the ramp is a that hinge, that is wrong as well. Essentially the skip ramp should be riveted down to the stationary piece screwed to the bottom of the playfield (the part not shown in the diagram below, it's the "U" shaped piece in your first photo). The Part 2 that someone has fabricated in yours simply "pushes" the ramp up, it is not physically connected to the ramp at all. Think of a ninja turtle opening a sewer cap. I.e., this assembly isn't physically connected to the ramp, and just pushes one side of the ramp up. Part 2 is the part that makes contact with the ramp to push it up.

RFM Skip Ramp Assembly (resized).JPG

This is what you need. Easy fix.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/04-12615

You'll probably need one of these as well.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=334

I guess it's personal preference. I have the stainless steel one from Pinbits and really like the look. I've also had no troubles out of the pressless kit rivets it comes with. The benefits far outweighed the costs for me to go with them as opposed to having to have a rivet press.

Yes. That ramp flap is not stock. I'm not near my machine either but it looks like you found the correct piece that the ramp mounts to. The rivets should be at the bottom/"southern" end of the flap.

I've done this with refrigerators that had smells (used to own rental homes). Works like a charm. You can get charcoal from a pet store.

Agree with the comment above. You can use a standard ATX PSU, but you will need to mod it. And I would recommend replacing the CPU fan as well. While you are in there, you may want to check your capacitors around the CPU heatsink as they typically cause issues.

I don't get emails either. There may be settings for that, but what I've found works for me is to do the following:

Click my username in the upper-right.
Click view your public profile.
Click forum activity.

This will allow you to see all threads that you've posted in, and if the number is green, then that means there are new posts you haven't read.

I think the leds in my RFM look fantastic. There is no way I would go back to incandescent.

With the WannaCry virus outbreak, and the like, I'll pass on clicking that link. No offense.

Ha, braver than I. Good to hear.

I would love to find out. Anyone want to sell me their SWEp1 playfield?

It's not a matter of if, but when. You could probably keep it running by replacing the caps (and hopefully not damaging the board), or by sending to Rob Anthony. However, my suggestion would be to go the Pinbox route, and not have to worry about it again. Make a backup and you are golden.

100% agree that if everything is working fine, no need to replace the original computer. My comment was to say that if you are having issues, Pinbox/Nucore are wonderful options that keep you from having to search for parts that are unobtainium. If it's a simple capacitor fix, and you are capable of handling it (note that this mobo has micro traces sandwiched in the board that are very easy to damage), then of course, keep chugging with the original. That said, when the time comes, and it likely will, my suggestion is to install Pinbox/Nucore and not have to worry again.

There was a sort of black tape film.

Sure, why not.

I bought a replacement flap from Pinbits. Came with a little plastic tool that can be used with a regular hammer. I never had any issues with the replacement and definitely recommend.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_53&products_id=334&zenid=68a3a3df9a17f8496fce6bed7b5954f1

It works like this shown in the image, but it is about half the size and plastic. It's kinda like a super thick-walled drinking straw. It may only work with the types of rivets that they send with their replacement flap. I'm definitely no rivet expert.

rivet tool (resized).png

It is their press fit kit. I had zero issues with it and definitely gave it plenty of tests to make sure it held. I'd absolutely purchase if I was in a similar position again, but can understand your thinking. That said, of course, better is always better, but I would have no hesitancy using this kit.