(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,357 posts
  • 309 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by applejuice
  • Topic is favorited by 138 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (11 months ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (11 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider maffewl.
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#1301 2 years ago

Just joined the club. However, mine is having mainboard reboot/freeze issues. Figured I'd step in and introduce myself, and if anyone might have a clue as to what's going on, it's probably this crowd. Below is a link to my issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-boot-issue

1 month later
#1319 2 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

MP, good idea. I'll get on that...er...as soon as I finish re-capping the monitor boards (ugh).

I probably need to do that too. Martian Attack mode causes the VHold on my screen to be a little jumpy due to the vibrations.

Edit: I too have that broken plastic. Mine hasn't completely broke off, but is definitely cracked at the screw hole.

#1323 2 years ago

This discussion had me thinking. I mentioned that I had a VHold issue when there is a good amount of vibration (such as with Martians Attack). I can also create it by slapping the backbox. Does this sound like a cap issue, or do others run into this as well?

#1329 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

This discussion had me thinking. I mentioned that I had a VHold issue when there is a good amount of vibration (such as with Martians Attack). I can also create it by slapping the backbox. Does this sound like a cap issue, or do others run into this as well?

Bump, any thoughts?

#1331 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Triggered by vibrations I'm thinking a cold solder joint or possibly an adjustment pot. If the hold adjustment is on a remote board try isolating that from the vibration and see if that helps.
Might just need to work the pot back and fourth a few times so that it gets a good clean contact.

Thanks for the input. I've done what you said by messing with the pot and holding it in my hand to test. It still had issues holding. Maybe just re-flowing solder on the board will help?

4 weeks later
#1363 2 years ago

Same here. I recently restored (not to brand new quality, but replacing parts, major cleaning, etc.). I made sure that there was no friction and that the pin is perfectly centered in that hole so that if it was meant to go down, it would. I have a PotC that I restored as well, and this is a common issue with that machine if you don't keep the ship pin clean and centered. That said, I have modes that the pin will not go down until I hit a flipper. Just to make sure, I lifted the playfield and double checked everything. It appears that is just part of the mode.

#1370 2 years ago

No. The top angled piece that is welded is not factory, and it looks like someone put a door hinge on it. This is Part 2 in the diagram below. Also, if the "pivot point" (bend point) of the ramp is a that hinge, that is wrong as well. Essentially the skip ramp should be riveted down to the stationary piece screwed to the bottom of the playfield (the part not shown in the diagram below, it's the "U" shaped piece in your first photo). The Part 2 that someone has fabricated in yours simply "pushes" the ramp up, it is not physically connected to the ramp at all. Think of a ninja turtle opening a sewer cap. I.e., this assembly isn't physically connected to the ramp, and just pushes one side of the ramp up. Part 2 is the part that makes contact with the ramp to push it up.

RFM Skip Ramp Assembly (resized).JPG

#1376 2 years ago

I guess it's personal preference. I have the stainless steel one from Pinbits and really like the look. I've also had no troubles out of the pressless kit rivets it comes with. The benefits far outweighed the costs for me to go with them as opposed to having to have a rivet press.

#1388 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Thanks!
I think they also made their own ramp flap? The rivet holes are at the wrong end compared to my new one...

Yes. That ramp flap is not stock. I'm not near my machine either but it looks like you found the correct piece that the ramp mounts to. The rivets should be at the bottom/"southern" end of the flap.

1 week later
#1434 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Stick a pan of crushed charcoal it there for a couple weeks, worked for one of my games.

I've done this with refrigerators that had smells (used to own rental homes). Works like a charm. You can get charcoal from a pet store.

3 weeks later
#1450 2 years ago

Agree with the comment above. You can use a standard ATX PSU, but you will need to mod it. And I would recommend replacing the CPU fan as well. While you are in there, you may want to check your capacitors around the CPU heatsink as they typically cause issues.

#1452 2 years ago

I don't get emails either. There may be settings for that, but what I've found works for me is to do the following:

Click my username in the upper-right.
Click view your public profile.
Click forum activity.

This will allow you to see all threads that you've posted in, and if the number is green, then that means there are new posts you haven't read.

3 weeks later
#1502 2 years ago

I think the leds in my RFM look fantastic. There is no way I would go back to incandescent.

1 week later
#1553 2 years ago
Quoted from mandrade1:

Hello Guys
I would like to introduce to you guys, my saga to clean and make it preety again ! And become part of the Club !
https://goo.gl/photos/aL8dRberXmWaXRxbA
Thanks a lot
Marcos

With the WannaCry virus outbreak, and the like, I'll pass on clicking that link. No offense.

#1556 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I took the bait and the link is legit. Nice Google photo album with tons of high res photos and videos.

Ha, braver than I. Good to hear.

2 weeks later
#1595 2 years ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

So I just got a SWE1 conversion kit for my RFM. Having both playfields seems to be popular.
How is everyone storing the playfield while not in use? Is anyone storing it standing up?

I would love to find out. Anyone want to sell me their SWEp1 playfield?

3 months later
#1658 2 years ago

It's not a matter of if, but when. You could probably keep it running by replacing the caps (and hopefully not damaging the board), or by sending to Rob Anthony. However, my suggestion would be to go the Pinbox route, and not have to worry about it again. Make a backup and you are golden.

#1663 2 years ago

100% agree that if everything is working fine, no need to replace the original computer. My comment was to say that if you are having issues, Pinbox/Nucore are wonderful options that keep you from having to search for parts that are unobtainium. If it's a simple capacitor fix, and you are capable of handling it (note that this mobo has micro traces sandwiched in the board that are very easy to damage), then of course, keep chugging with the original. That said, when the time comes, and it likely will, my suggestion is to install Pinbox/Nucore and not have to worry again.

2 months later
#1761 1 year ago
Quoted from Lmjdad:

What was originally here on the face of this metal piece?

There was a sort of black tape film.

#1766 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Friction tape? The same stuff used to mount lift channels on Backglasses?

Sure, why not.

1 year later
#2563 8 months ago

I bought a replacement flap from Pinbits. Came with a little plastic tool that can be used with a regular hammer. I never had any issues with the replacement and definitely recommend.

https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_53&products_id=334&zenid=68a3a3df9a17f8496fce6bed7b5954f1

#2565 8 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

thanks @maffewl can you show me the plastic tool? i have already bought the original flap and won't order to pinbits as shipment to europe will be too costy

It works like this shown in the image, but it is about half the size and plastic. It's kinda like a super thick-walled drinking straw. It may only work with the types of rivets that they send with their replacement flap. I'm definitely no rivet expert.

rivet tool (resized).png
#2567 8 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

if it came with their rivet "kit", I would steer clear and do it the proper way. the press fit rivets will not hold up for this particular item
here's their pressless rivet kit
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=72&zenid=7e322cb21bcefd2009d00e0c8b0e0cdf
I'm also not a fan of the stainless ramp flap (but that's a whole different story). long story short, it sticks out like a sore thumb on the playfield. blue it yourself or purchase one that is pre-blued like these
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-15141

It is their press fit kit. I had zero issues with it and definitely gave it plenty of tests to make sure it held. I'd absolutely purchase if I was in a similar position again, but can understand your thinking. That said, of course, better is always better, but I would have no hesitancy using this kit.

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