(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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There are 2930 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 59.
#2801 29 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yeah I accept that “Next Gen” is what it is and all that’s generally available... I just see them anywhere from 249 (eBay) to 289 (various pinball shops)... a little afraid to save a buck to be sure I’m not getting someone’s own version of a “Next Gen” product.

I bought mine at Expo for $125 directly from the vendor.

#2802 29 days ago
Quoted from robotron911:

I bought mine at Expo for $125 directly from the vendor.

Oh man I’m not going to be that lucky !!!!

#2803 28 days ago

I realize I may be dousing myself in kerosene for this one, but has anyone had any luck in brightening the playfield without going completely garish?

My game room is dimly lit, and my 85 year-old father has trouble seeing where the ball is going, so I was hoping to raise the overall lumens a little without going full stadium lights. The RFM at Logan Arcade in Chicago is a bit more than what I was thinking, but a similar idea. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a real good look at where the lights were hiding when I was there.

Any ideas?

#2804 28 days ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I realize I may be dousing myself in kerosene for this one, but has anyone had any luck in brightening the playfield without going completely garish?
My game room is dimly lit, and my 85 year-old father has trouble seeing where the ball is going, so I was hoping to raise the overall lumens a little without going full stadium lights. The RFM at Logan Arcade in Chicago is a bit more than what I was thinking, but a similar idea. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a real good look at where the lights were hiding when I was there.
Any ideas?

Before actually changing something. You can try increasing the brightness via menu adjustments. Adjustments>System Adjustments>Power Saver>Lamp Intensity Level>Default is 5. 0=brightest 15=darkest. Hope this helps.

EDIT:
Make sure to power cycle the game after changing this adjustment. The change wont take effect without a power cycle.
Maybe a software bug within XINA applejuice

#2805 27 days ago

Just built a Nucore box for my episode 1. Having a slight issue hope someone can point me in the right direction. I am having issues with the "free" build of Nucore sometimes booting to the lixux desktop? Any thoughts or fixes for this?

Thanks!

#2806 27 days ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I realize I may be dousing myself in kerosene for this one, but has anyone had any luck in brightening the playfield without going completely garish?
My game room is dimly lit, and my 85 year-old father has trouble seeing where the ball is going, so I was hoping to raise the overall lumens a little without going full stadium lights. The RFM at Logan Arcade in Chicago is a bit more than what I was thinking, but a similar idea. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a real good look at where the lights were hiding when I was there.
Any ideas?

You have leds in it?

#2807 27 days ago

Shaker and Knocker Loom update:

I will be receiving the first sample from the manufacturer tomorrow, so will post some pics of it. After this is approved by me, its full steam ahead for 100x looms to be made

#2808 27 days ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You have leds in it?

I do, yes.

#2809 27 days ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Before actually changing something. You can try increasing the brightness via menu adjustments. Adjustments>System Adjustments>Power Saver>Lamp Intensity Level>Default is 5. 0=brightest 15=darkest. Hope this helps.

It helps a little, but I think the basic problem is that there just isn't any illumination on parts of the playfield. In any case, thanks for the tip, I didn't even see that option before.

#2810 27 days ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

It helps a little, but I think the basic problem is that there just isn't any illumination on parts of the playfield. In any case, thanks for the tip, I didn't even see that option before.

Well a lot of people don't know about this adjustment. idk why. Does your game have the two spotlights on both slings. If not I would add them. Some RFMs were missing them from factory. There is not much you can do about without messing up the gameplay experience. If the game gets to bright. The video animations will be dim.

#2811 26 days ago
Quoted from robotron911:

Anyone having issues with the microswitches in the two top lanes? Before I did my teardown, the left one basically never registered. I replace both microswitches with new ones and made sure the wire form had plenty of extension into the lane. If I manually depress them, it registers and I can hear the microswitches click. But during an actual game, they miss registering about 25% of the time. I re-adjusted the wireforms with no luck.
Also, anyone get the pop bumpers with good action. I did a complete and total rebuild on all three, including polishing the metal rings, and they are still clunky. Stronger coils? The ones that are in are to spec.
Thanks.

I have similar issues with my switches registering in my ball lock lane. Sometimes it seems like the ball travels too fast and doesn’t register with the switches, but the switches still test fine in test.

I wonder if adding a small capacitor across the switch leads would help? I’ve done this with my LOTR Palantir switch and now it registers every time I hit the switch.

#2812 26 days ago
Quoted from Bangback:

I have similar issues with my switches registering in my ball lock lane. Sometimes it seems like the ball travels too fast and doesn’t register with the switches, but the switches still test fine in test.
I wonder if adding a small capacitor across the switch leads would help? I’ve done this with my LOTR Palantir switch and now it registers every time I hit the switch.

Just replace all microswitch rollover switches. wpc-95 and pin2k cherry switches don't last. They were crap quality

#2813 26 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Just replace all microswitch rollover switches. wpc-95 and pin2k cherry switches don't last. They were crap quality

Weird, but my two RFM i own(ed) also both had bad top lane switches.
Haven't they used Cherry DA3C microswitches like most of the WPC era games?

#2814 26 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Just replace all microswitch rollover switches. wpc-95 and pin2k cherry switches don't last. They were crap quality

I had so many switches out on mine when I got it that you would have thought I had a switch matrix problem...

#2815 26 days ago

Sample loom is here. Checking it in my game.

IMG_4059 (resized).JPGIMG_4060 (resized).JPGIMG_4061 (resized).JPG

#2816 26 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Sample loom is here. Checking it in my game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice!

#2817 25 days ago
Quoted from Bangback:

I have similar issues with my switches registering in my ball lock lane. Sometimes it seems like the ball travels too fast and doesn’t register with the switches, but the switches still test fine in test.
I wonder if adding a small capacitor across the switch leads would help? I’ve done this with my LOTR Palantir switch and now it registers every time I hit the switch.

Same issue with me lately. Switch tests fine but the odd time it won't register the lock.

#2818 25 days ago
Quoted from mastercello:

Haven't they used Cherry DA3C microswitches like most of the WPC era games?

After the Bally Williams merger most games were a conglomeration of parts from both companies. Pinball 2000 was a whole different animal from what was produced at the time. WMS pinball was dismantled the same year, 1999.

#2819 25 days ago

Hey guys, just uploaded a tutorial on updating RFM to ver 1.5 and 2.1 using windows 7 and factory hardware. Let me know if it helps out!

#2820 25 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Sample loom is here. Checking it in my game.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I checked the standard Stern SAM shakers and the motors have different connectors as they connect to a board. I'm assuming that one of the 2-pin molex connecters is intended for the shaker and would require a new connector installed.

#2821 25 days ago

I agree regard the crap microswitches in RFM.
I've had to replace about 3-4 of the p.o.s… on my game; they seem to be worse in the upper PF. In nearly every case; I can pull them and see some green ooze coming out of them. I'm not sure what that ooze is... but I'm guessing it may be left over flux from the manufacturing line which has "grown" into the actual switch body gunking up the internal mechs.

Last time I ended up buying the modern DB3 microswitches from digikey and moving the rollover wire to the body.

#2822 25 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I checked the standard Stern SAM shakers and the motors have different connectors as they connect to a board. I'm assuming that one of the 2-pin molex connecters is intended for the shaker and would require a new connector installed.

The loom has 2 standard molex connectors for connecting up a shaker and knocker. There are various shakers and knockers you can use so the connectors are like this so you can fit whatever you choose. The appropriate male ends and pins will be included so you can connect your items. If you use a stern shaker you don't have to use the board, you can just connect to the motor cable if you include a 2a fuse in line. The choices are many and its up to the individual.

These looms are already in use as i was making them manually beforehand so its all proven.

I will create an install doc about it when i get time.

#2823 25 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

The loom has 2 standard molex connectors for connecting up a shaker and knocker. There are various shakers and knockers you can use so the connectors are like this so you can fit whatever you choose. The appropriate male ends and pins will be included so you can connect your items. If you use a stern shaker you don't have to use the board, you can just connect to the motor cable if you include a 2a fuse in line. The choices are many and its up to the individual.
These looms are already in use as i was making them manually beforehand so its all proven.
I will create an install doc about it when i get time.

Excellent. Thank you, sir.

#2824 25 days ago

Since it caused me great headache - wanted to pass along the CORRECT rubber kit for Revenge From Mars. The manual is long known to be wrong (shocker) and thus most available online retailers kits - are also wrong. Observationally, I don't think I've seen an RFM with a proper kit ...so here it is!

RFM_Rubber Kit001 (resized).png
#2825 24 days ago

That is a bit different from the manual..

I'm interested to see what others have used.

#2826 24 days ago

I have some PUB cards left if anyone is interested.

#2827 24 days ago

More progress....working out the efficiency in building them and had to get a more proper Molex crimper...piece of advice - that cheap crimper you see nearly everyone has... sucks - spend the money and get the better one (like Ed as at GPE) makes a world of difference....it's stunning....I picked this one up on eBay for $35....they sell for 3Xs that new - but when you have 1 good crimp out of 5 and go to 5 out of 5....its worth it....

20190524_121638 (resized).jpg
#2828 24 days ago

I have Nucore kit, want to build it with included case, can anyone offer what motherboard would fit/work for that application?

Thx.

Nice to see this thread gaining popularity too. I have both Pin2000, they're different for sure, but still a blast to play. RFM is still the better of course.

#2829 23 days ago

Few new features that I'm working on. More details later. Maybe you'll want to stay up til midnight in the future??

#2830 23 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Few new features that I'm working on. More details later. Maybe you'll want to stay up til midnight in the future??

<everyone look both ways> I set the clock, right?

Excellent work, Jim.

#2831 23 days ago

Man, so excited about all the updates!
Are sound files easy to add? Was thinkning if memory wasnt any issue and not too much of a hassle we could add some more callouts and have a setting for which president you want: Clinton, Bush, Obama, or Trump. Would be cool to keep it current. Thank you for all the software (and now hardware!) work!

#2832 23 days ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Man, so excited about all the updates!
Are sound files easy to add? Was thinkning if memory wasnt any issue and not too much of a hassle we could add some more callouts and have a setting for which president you want: Clinton, Bush, Obama, or Trump. Would be cool to keep it current. Thank you for all the software (and now hardware!) work!

No he can't do and he won't be able to do so without the tools and raw sounds...

#2833 23 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I have some PUB cards left if anyone is interested.

save one for me!

#2834 23 days ago

What about speeding the the auto-plunge on ball save... it seems the delay is kinda long and the launch button doesn’t work at that point

#2835 22 days ago

Work on a new feature - Attract mode clock and date addition. Handy when you have your RFM on a lot in the workshop/games room like me

This is also the start for work on a midnight madness mode.

Anything shown is just dev not final

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#2836 22 days ago
Quoted from prefontaine79:

save one for me!

Already set aside.

#2837 22 days ago

AppleJuice
Since we are talking about a clock...
Can we get a NTP setting to specify an NTP server so the machine can autosync to the date/time of a server?

#2838 19 days ago

just for the records-could not find a post with that error message:

was having issues when updating my RFM. Error message on the P2000 updater was: "cannot connect on com1"
Finally, after checking connectors and settings on my PC the culprit was inside the original PC: the serial DSUB9 port on the side was internally connected on the wrong port -make sure it is connected to COM1 on the motherboard !
Update went well using win XP pro and the existing serial port.

I luckily found this solution by watching a random P2k update video and the guy was having the same issue...pure luck...I would have wasted lot´s of time...

Finally with V2.1 installed everything is prepared for the shaker to be built and implemented

#2839 19 days ago
Quoted from harig:

just for the records-could not find a post with that error message:
was having issues when updating my RFM. Error message on the P2000 updater was: "cannot connect on com1"
Finally, after checking connectors and settings on my PC the culprit was inside the original PC: the serial DSUB9 port on the side was internally connected on the wrong port -make sure it is connected to COM1 on the motherboard !
Update went well using win XP pro and the existing serial port.
I luckily found this solution by watching a random P2k update video and the guy was having the same issue...pure luck...I would have wasted lot´s of time...
Finally with V2.1 installed everything is prepared for the shaker to be built and implemented

Common problem with original pin2k rfm computers. Many of them shipped with the comm port cables (inside the computer box) on the wrong header or reversed. I've seen it many many times over the years. Always check this BEFORE trying to update for the first time

#2840 19 days ago

Lowered the price on my HUO RFM if you happen to know someone looking to get one.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/79048

#2841 19 days ago
Quoted from harig:

just for the records-could not find a post with that error message:
was having issues when updating my RFM. Error message on the P2000 updater was: "cannot connect on com1"
Finally, after checking connectors and settings on my PC the culprit was inside the original PC: the serial DSUB9 port on the side was internally connected on the wrong port -make sure it is connected to COM1 on the motherboard !
Update went well using win XP pro and the existing serial port.
I luckily found this solution by watching a random P2k update video and the guy was having the same issue...pure luck...I would have wasted lot´s of time...
Finally with V2.1 installed everything is prepared for the shaker to be built and implemented

I have the same problem. Does the COM connection look valid on my photo? Is it possible to just update the computer without attaching the playfield (I just have access to computer and not the whole machine at the moment)?

IMG_5974.JPG
#2842 18 days ago
Quoted from rygar:

I have the same problem. Does the COM connection look valid on my photo? Is it possible to just update the computer without attaching the playfield (I just have access to computer and not the whole machine at the moment)?[quoted image]

Orientation looks ok. I do not remember wich port is com1. It was labelled on the Motherboard. Mine looks like that

20190529_171112 (resized).jpg
#2843 18 days ago

Thank you for the verification. The upper (connected port) is COM1 and the lower one is COM2. I ll try updating again with the playfield present.

#2844 18 days ago
Quoted from rygar:

Thank you for the verification. The upper (connected port) is COM1 and the lower one is COM2. I ll try updating again with the playfield present.

What operating system are you using to update?

#2845 18 days ago

Folks that are running pinbox or newcore... what PC hardware are you running? I want to keep my CRT so I need to run something with a early model ATI card so it will run at 15 kHz... but beyond that does it matter much?

#2846 18 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Folks that are running pinbox or newcore... what PC hardware are you running? I want to keep my CRT so I need to run something with a early model ATI card so it will run at 15 kHz... but beyond that does it matter much?

Something I’ve been researching as well. I found this website that might Have some answers. https://www.retrorgb.com/rgbvideocard.html

#2847 18 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Folks that are running pinbox or newcore... what PC hardware are you running? I want to keep my CRT so I need to run something with a early model ATI card so it will run at 15 kHz... but beyond that does it matter much?

I've built several systems with ATI Radeon HD 5450s for 15kHz output.

#2848 18 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I've built several systems with ATI Radeon HD 5450s for 15kHz output.

Excellent that’s the one I have. What CPU family? Something dual core or better I assume. I don’t mind picking up an older PC but would like to get something that isn’t too old.

Thanks!

#2849 18 days ago
Quoted from Andyzola87:

What operating system are you using to update?

Windows 98SE on an old Toshiba Satellite pro 4200.

#2850 18 days ago
Quoted from rygar:

Windows 98SE on an old Toshiba Satellite pro 4200.

Ok, just FYI you can update without having to use the update manager. I just did a tutorial on this the other day. If you run into issues it may help out and you can use newer OS.

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