It is strange, but I am not getting emails when this forum topic is updated. Is that normal for Pinside? Sorry, very new here.

I don't get emails either. There may be settings for that, but what I've found works for me is to do the following:

Click my username in the upper-right.
Click view your public profile.
Click forum activity.

This will allow you to see all threads that you've posted in, and if the number is green, then that means there are new posts you haven't read.

I need to replace the cabinet decals on my machine. Who makes the most color and resolution accurate ones? There are two main vendors I found that have them and I'm curious which you guys like best.

I ordered a set from MrPinball. Have not yet installed (might start that project this weekend). They look super nice though and are printed on a nice heavy vinyl.

Pinside doesn't send emails for this only when you are PMing others. Just save this club as a favorite and check your favorites often.

Can you post a link to the decals? I'm struggling to find these.

I think you can get updates by using a RSS feed notification chrome extension.

The RSS feed is available at the top of this thread. Then look for an RSS feed extension from Google. Here is one for example. RSS Alert : https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/rss-alert/lemgijjifkaldmklohlmjaplmfobgich?hl=en

Sure: http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/revenge-from-mars-cabinet-art-set/

No going back now

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Pictures as you go along.

Well the head is already done (in the photo). It was actually a lot easier than I anticipated and I'd much rather do this than say a playfield overlay, ugh.

Tonight I got the main body stripped. Heat gun makes it pretty easy. Here is one side. In the morning will be sanding and prepping and can get some more pics then.

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Heat gun method works a treat Are you planning on keeping the same red T-molding? the machine looks good with Galaxian green

Going to keep it Red for now as the T-moulding is in pretty good shape. I was going to replace it and have red in hand but figure that can be done anytime.

Sanding the cabinet, applied a very small amount of bondo in the front under the coin door and painted a bit of black along where the seams will be to help conceal any future decal damage that may occur.

Removed the bolts for the playfield track which are concealed under the final art decal as the white underlying decal was under them.

An interesting aspect of P2K is revealed here in that the art decals were meant for easy removal as with bare minimal heat they peel away from the smooth white backing decal that is well bonded to the wood.

I think if the white decals were not themselves also damaged i may have simply layed these on top of those after removing the art decals.

Fortunately the Mr Pinball decals are nice and thick (about the same or even a little thicker than the white backer decal) and not super thin like the original art decals so they should be good directly applied like a regular decal.

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Oh and this is what those rail bolts look like so they must be hammered out and then hammered back in.

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Getting things aligned. The color registration mark placement is a bit obnoxious as there is no way to avoid laying in somewhere it would get cut off from. Oh well, at least it looks like it will be under the legs.

The front decal appears to have a pretty tight placement tolerance but once you think about how the coin door and other hardeare will cover some of it, its not actually too tight.

I use a high power flashlight along all edges to make sure im happy with the placement before using weights to hold it in place.

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Are you going to put a plug in the cd opening when you apply it?

I didn't but that would have been a good idea. It is tricky to not get wrinkles in that area given the giant gaping hole where the CD goes.

The decals are applied. Still some trimming and blacking out of the edges to do. A good sharpie should do the trick.

My alignment isn't perfect so fortunately there is no art that needs to align. It probably would have been easier to get a better alignment if there was some art on the corners to reference.

My practical side says nobody will ever notice but my ocd side tells me that 1/8" on one side and 1/4" on the other is like a big gaping gash lol. At least I got it down with no bubbles creases or wrinkles

1000x's better than what was there.

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Oh and of course cabinet protectors to keep the decals in good shape.

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You could have used the color marks.

Yeah, i guess thats why they were there, oh well. Shes back on her feet. This is the side where I was the furthest off (about 1/4 inch). Fortunately legs on and standing not at all noticable. Only when looking at the color marks which are now hidden.

Next onto scraping that super strong double stick tape off the side rails and re-affix. This looks like the same stuff as original.

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Yeah you or anyone else will never notice it.

Wow...great job!!!

Thanks! I think I may tackle my TZ next but that one can wait as its not torn like RFM was... just faded.

Still scraping the old tape off the side rails... even the adhesive disolving stuff didn't phase it, but one is almost done.

Also going to address a couple small issues on the playfield while I have it all the way out.

So:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPM-3D-RFM-TRANSLITE

I have one on order. Anyone else?

My RFM is scheduled next for restoration after Police Force is finished.

I'll probably finish it this Summer.

Oh yeah, I'll be ordering 3 when I get a confirmation from the 3rd guy. A group buy, the shipping is only $22 for all 3.

Yep! My order is in as well! Can't wait to receive it! I also plan on redoing the cabinet decals sometime soon.

Me too, I have the Dutch Pinball ones AND a new pf.

I was overthinking this. Switch 74 was bad and showing up in the test report. I fixed that and it cleared this issue with the diverter gate. Makes sense that the system doesn't see the gate closed if the switch never activates.

2 months later and all 9 errors fixed on a "used working and clean" game purchased off of pinside. No one to blame but myself for the mistake. Didn't start a thread whining about it or bashing the seller. Manned up. Learned how to fix shit and got it done.

That's good but still pretty shitty what the seller did.

I just got back in the club. Sadly my RFM is all over the place. Can anyone snap me some pics of the coin door wiring as well as correct order for PF connectors. Things on this cab are way off.

Man - those cab decals make me want to re-do mine - looks great!

I have some wrinkling on the legs and there was a small scrap from shipping.

Have you tried heating them to get the wrinkles out?

That's next up on the list then Stern esk leg protectors.

Yes those and when you put them on cut around them with a razor. Keep us informed on how it goes.

Replying to your other thread on here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-bootingfrozentoon-select-game-pricing-screen

Double check your wiring against my pictures and the manual as you have two different sized connectors at the bottom of your cabinet that aren't present on my machine.

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I verified the wiring and it seems fine. I think this was a re-import so maybe that's why the weird coin door. The previous owner said it was working 100% and all that he did was have a buddy install Pin Box when his computer died and everything went crazy.

For me this is acting less like a software issue and more like a wiring issue, but I can't track it down. Is there anyway to test this computer outside of the machine to at least rule that out?

Look what came today. I wish I could keep all 3. The 3d effect is stunning.

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So I'm considering building a pinbox rig. My RFM has the original computer but the graphics have an annoying lag to them. I've installed more ram but all it seemed to accomplish was increase the initial loading time for the game.

Does pinbox remove this lag?

I think Pinbox does a better job but I also was using an LCD screen instead of the original monitor.

if you have never modified the original computer hardware, you might want to consider bumping up the ram in it (doubling will eliminate the stuttering in the animations where it's an issue. I think that I added 64MB or 128MB sticks to both slots. you can add upwards of 256MB in each slot, but that's really just overkill and in the end, all it really does is slow down the boot-up process since the ram is checked

Bumping up ram will not remove any lag, all it does is increase the boot time, at least that is all it did for me. Seen lots of people come to the same conclusion

leave the system the way it is. you will gain nothing by changing or upgrading the memory. unless it's defective... let it be
-Ed12

Picked one of these beauties up yesterday. It was filthy. I have given the playfield a quick wipe over and gone through the machine for missing elements. So far all I can find incorrect is the missing spotlights from the slings. No assemblies or posts. At some point this machine has had some love as it has leds through it, and plastic sling washers for protection. The leds all report as open circuit, so they may be replaced with newer brighter ones in the near future. I've found the sling lamp assemblies but can't find the posts that they attach to on the slings?
The monitor in mine is a Sanyo brand and the scaling is slightly off on it. Images are oversanning on the tube/cropped. I'm assuming I can adjust this somewhere on the back of the tube.
Any assistance ? Thanks.

Also noticed it is running version 0.7, not a typo, 0.7 of the game code. I will attempt an update in the coming weeks.

Seems like all leds will do this in Pin2k games.
I think the spotlight posts are regular hex posts, not sure on the length though.
Nice pickup!

This is exactly what I've found. I doubled the ram and now it takes forever to boot and still has the exact same lag.

Yes, because LED's do not lok the same to the board in the circuit they do not show up as good in the test mode, kind if an unfortunate side effect.

If they put LED through the upper playfield area GI (under the monitor) I would replace those with regular bulbs as the game dims them while the ball is not in that area. LED's will flicker badly and ruin thr dimming effect since the dimming method was not designed for them.

A friend of mine bought a RFM with LEDs throughout. We shopped it and upgraded it to incandescents. Looked a LOT better.

To each their own, but I think the inserts look MUCH better with LEDs. I prefer to selectively replace only some of the GI with LEDs.

does anyone know if there is a way to trick the game into seeing LEDs? Say via adding a resistor to each one? Or something similar to a LED OCD board or something. I'm not interested in it as I agree the incandescents looks great. Just looking to learn more from a theoretical standpoint.

Make sure to add a diode to these lamps, similar to the 2 green domes on the slingshots. I bought a game and was having multiple lamps light during single lamp test, after some digging I discovered the spotlights were replaced, and a diode wasn't added. Pretty easy fix now everything works like it should. Every lamp on this machine is controlled, so there should be a diode on every one.

Also, I did LEDs in all the inserts, but left the GI with incandescent bulbs, I think the LEDs look great in the inserts.