RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

3 years ago


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There are 1633 posts in topic. You are on page 27 of 33.
#1301 7 months ago

Just joined the club. However, mine is having mainboard reboot/freeze issues. Figured I'd step in and introduce myself, and if anyone might have a clue as to what's going on, it's probably this crowd. Below is a link to my issue.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-boot-issue

#1302 7 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Just joined the club. However, mine is having mainboard reboot/freeze issues. Figured I'd step in and introduce myself, and if anyone might have a clue as to what's going on, it's probably this crowd. Below is a link to my issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-boot-issue

Welcome to the club. Sorry but I don't have a clue.

#1303 7 months ago

Try this first, open up the pc, remove the prism card and reinsert. Make sure the foam rubber on the pc case lid lines up over the prism to add a little but of pressure and keeps it in place. The prism may have come loose during transport. Mine did the same lockups/freezing and has not done it since. Been 7 years now.

2 weeks later
#1304 6 months ago

Hi RFM fans. I just put some RFM parts up on EBay. Here is the link if you would like to take a look. Thanks.

ebay.com link

3 weeks later
#1306 5 months ago

Hello fellow RFM'ers. I have a question about the ball save feature - Does yours auto-plunge a saved ball? Mine does not. I have replaced the shooter lane switch and it tests good. The game auto-plunges saved balls during multi-ball but not for a save at the beginning of each ball. My RFM has the latest v1.6 firmware and the ball save feature is turned on.

#1307 5 months ago

Mine doesn't replunge on ball save either. Only in multi ball, I updated to v1.6 with Pub card from Rob Anthony. Seems that is how it should be I'd say.

#1308 5 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Hello fellow RFM'ers. I have a question about the ball save feature - Does yours auto-plunge a saved ball? Mine does not. I have replaced the shooter lane switch and it tests good. The game auto-plunges saved balls during multi-ball but not for a save at the beginning of each ball. My RFM has the latest v1.6 firmware and the ball save feature is turned on.

Mine does not auto-plunge on saves.

#1309 5 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Mine does not auto-plunge on saves.

Thank you for the answers. I guess that's how it is then!

#1310 5 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Thank you for the answers. I guess that's how it is then!

Yeah, It would have made more sense if the skill shot was a Mulligan, but that goes away so why not autoplunge? Just the way I would have had it.

I also have mine set to no ball search and it still autoplunges a waiting ball after a while. Frustrating if you walk away to use the toilet, door example.

#1311 5 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I also have mine set to no ball search and it still autoplunges a waiting ball after a while. Frustrating if you walk away to use the toilet, door example.

Same here. It sucks when I'm showing someone new how to do the skill shot or choose the mode then all of a sudden the ball launches and they have to get to it!

#1312 5 months ago

Last night we thought it was funny where the ball got stuck UNTILL I saw that it broke the plastic. Now to find a new plastic and make a plastic protector for it.

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#1313 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Last night we thought it was funny where the ball got stuck UNTILL I saw that it broke the plastic. Now to find a new plastic and make a plastic protector for it.

I have the same broken plastic... have not been able to find it available other than buying a compete set which so far have not been able to justify

#1314 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Last night we thought it was funny where the ball got stuck UNTILL I saw that it broke the plastic. Now to find a new plastic and make a plastic protector for it.

Bummer, MP. Mine broke and I made one & sprayed the underside black, which is acceptable given it's somewhat hidden. I've also been looking for a replacement for a long time now.

#1315 5 months ago

Hmmmmmm looks like I'm not alone, nuttin on ebay hugh. BLAN B then.......make my own. Scroll saw...check...5 different color lexan...check...time...

#1316 5 months ago
Quoted from bbriese:

Bummer, MP. Mine broke and I made one & sprayed the underside black, which is acceptable given it's somewhat hidden. I've also been looking for a replacement for a long time now.

Since you painted it black already, cover that black with aluminum air duct tape, that will reflect all the light from the bulb underneath out. Might light up that spot a little better as it acts like a mirror.

#1317 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Since you painted it black already, cover that with black with aluminum air duct tape, that will reflect all the light from the bulb underneath out. Might light up that spot a little better as it acts like a mirror.

MP, good idea. I'll get on that...er...as soon as I finish re-capping the monitor boards (ugh).

#1318 5 months ago
Quoted from bbriese:

MP, good idea. I'll get on that...er...as soon as I finish re-capping the monitor boards (ugh).

Wow you can do your own re-capping....cool.

#1319 5 months ago
Quoted from bbriese:

MP, good idea. I'll get on that...er...as soon as I finish re-capping the monitor boards (ugh).

I probably need to do that too. Martian Attack mode causes the VHold on my screen to be a little jumpy due to the vibrations.

Edit: I too have that broken plastic. Mine hasn't completely broke off, but is definitely cracked at the screw hole.

#1320 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Wow you can do your own re-capping....cool.

I've never messed with arcade monitors before so this ought to be an adventure. I really don't want to convert to lcd monitor unless last resort. Mine starts nice n black and fades to gray after half hour or so...

#1321 5 months ago
Quoted from bbriese:

I've never messed with arcade monitors before so this ought to be an adventure. I really don't want to convert to lcd monitor unless last resort. Mine starts nice n black and fades to gray after half hour or so...

Unstable color is a pretty sure sign of time to install a cap kit and several folks have pre-packaged kits of all the caps you need for many common arcade monitors. If you have basic soldering skills its a breeze... Just make sure and discharge it before reaching in there!

#1322 5 months ago

merccat is correct
most of the good kits also come with a checklist of what is included in the kit and designation on the motherboard (eg. C1, C2, etc...) which makes it a bit easier to replace them.

I typically don't worry about going "in order", but rather working systematically through the board and tackling all of the caps in a specific area (doing them one at a time) and marking them off the list. just be sure that you're using the correct replacement cap (2.2uF is different than 22uF, so double checking the print on the capacitor and the leads for those that are polarized.

also, make sure to check that for the polarized caps that you insert it back in the the same way that you pull out the old one. I've worked on a few boards where the silkscreening on the pc board was actually incorrect

#1323 5 months ago

This discussion had me thinking. I mentioned that I had a VHold issue when there is a good amount of vibration (such as with Martians Attack). I can also create it by slapping the backbox. Does this sound like a cap issue, or do others run into this as well?

#1324 5 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

you're using the correct replacement cap (3.3K ohm is different than 33K ohm

.. And if your caps have ohms listed on them, they're not rally going to work at ALL.

#1325 5 months ago

true enough, but I think that people get the gist. I should have really used 22uf vs 2.2uf

#1326 5 months ago
Quoted from merccat:

Unstable color is a pretty sure sign of time to install a cap kit and several folks have pre-packaged kits of all the caps you need for many common arcade monitors. If you have basic soldering skills its a breeze... Just make sure and discharge it before reaching in there!

I have a ducksan monitor and just found a cap kit from Syracuse Semiconductors....It seems as though many of the sources listed here in previous threads for cap kits have gone away and/or their websites are not working. Since it sounds like y'all might have done this before, is it best to pull the entire monitor & chassis out of the machine or can the board(s) be accessed and removed separately?

#1327 5 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

true enough, but I think that people get the gist. I should have really used 22uf vs 2.2uf

It's okay, i was just being a smartass.

#1328 5 months ago
Quoted from bbriese:

I have a ducksan monitor and just found a cap kit from Syracuse Semiconductors....It seems as though many of the sources listed here in previous threads for cap kits have gone away and/or their websites are not working. Since it sounds like y'all might have done this before, is it best to pull the entire monitor & chassis out of the machine or can the board(s) be accessed and removed separately?

it's easiest to pull the entire frame w/ the monitor and then remove the chassis to re-move and replace the caps

#1329 5 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

This discussion had me thinking. I mentioned that I had a VHold issue when there is a good amount of vibration (such as with Martians Attack). I can also create it by slapping the backbox. Does this sound like a cap issue, or do others run into this as well?

Bump, any thoughts?

#1330 5 months ago
Quoted from maffewl:

Bump, any thoughts?

Triggered by vibrations I'm thinking a cold solder joint or possibly an adjustment pot. If the hold adjustment is on a remote board try isolating that from the vibration and see if that helps.

Might just need to work the pot back and fourth a few times so that it gets a good clean contact.

#1331 5 months ago
Quoted from merccat:

Triggered by vibrations I'm thinking a cold solder joint or possibly an adjustment pot. If the hold adjustment is on a remote board try isolating that from the vibration and see if that helps.
Might just need to work the pot back and fourth a few times so that it gets a good clean contact.

Thanks for the input. I've done what you said by messing with the pot and holding it in my hand to test. It still had issues holding. Maybe just re-flowing solder on the board will help?

#1332 5 months ago

Hi All,

Kind of an elementart question, but can someone tell me what the spotlights are supposed to be focused on? 2 on the left sling and one on the right. I assume on the bouncing martians, but why 2 on the left and only 1 on the right?

Thanks!

#1333 5 months ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Hi All,
Kind of an elementart question, but can someone tell me what the spotlights are supposed to be focused on? 2 on the left sling and one on the right. I assume on the bouncing martians, but why 2 on the left and only 1 on the right?
Thanks!

There should be only two spotlights total, each one pointing at the nearest Martian.

#1334 5 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

There should be only two spotlights total, each one pointing at the nearest Martian.

I have a third one too, it's black like the other 2 and it's riveted to the plastic just to the left under the ramp. Looks stock to me.

#1335 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I have a third one too, it's black like the other 2 and it's riveted to the plastic just to the left under the ramp. Looks stock to me.

Yeah, I have that too. But that one has a fixed direction (there are posts on each side of it), so it doesn't seem relevant to his question. And he said "two on the left sling", which he shouldn't have.

1 week later
#1336 5 months ago

Just got my RFM and SW1 in this week. So far have been going through RFM and getting things right. Previous owner had installed 1 LED bulbs and mostly color matched except for the GI which they did in domed, frosted, cool white. I replaced a few of the burnt out bulbs with 1 SMD domed, frosted, sunlight (a little more yellow than cool but not natural white) whites and it's brightened up the field - almost too much as it's now a little harder to see the screen.

So now my ? - what are you guys using to brighten up the field without taking away from the monitor? I was thinking of going with 1 SMD frosted red or maybe some purple's to brighten it up without overpowering it. Thoughts?

What is everyone's success with cointaker or pinballlife kits?

Thoughts on going back to incandescent? I've seen a lot of posts (mostly older) about keeping in incandescent for the dimming effects.

#1337 5 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Thoughts on going back to incandescent? I've seen a lot of posts (mostly older) about keeping in incandescent for the dimming effects.

I'm a fan of LEDs for the benefits of reducing current consumption and heat, except that I prefer to keep older games incandescent to keep the classic look. On RFM, LEDs just have too many negatives for my tastes. They interfere with the monitor image and they don't allow the lamp diagnostics to work as they should, and don't operate well with dimming effects. I'd seriously give some thought as to going back to incandescent, as this game really isn't designed to be bright, it's a high contrast dark game. Consider minor mods such as LEDing the saucers (which I did) or Lee's Stroke of Luck mod instead of populating the whole game with LEDs. Just my opinion.

#1338 5 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I'm a fan of LEDs for the benefits of reducing current consumption and heat, except that I prefer to keep older games incandescent to keep the classic look. On RFM, LEDs just have too many negatives for my tastes. They interfere with the monitor image and they don't allow the lamp diagnostics to work as they should, and don't operate well with dimming effects. I'd seriously give some thought as to going back to incandescent, as this game really isn't designed to be bright, it's a high contrast dark game. Consider minor mods such as LEDing the saucers (which I did) or Lee's Stroke of Luck mod instead of populating the whole game with LEDs. Just my opinion.

I bought red, green and amber incandescent bulbs from Pinball Life to help add a little color and brightness to the playfield inserts. It's not overwhelmingly bright like an led and you don't lose the fading effects. Plus, they're a lot cheaper than LEDs.

#1339 5 months ago

I found the LEDs are most problematic in the upper plyfield area which dims when the ball is not there to maximize monitor visibility so what I did was use LEDs for inserts and lower playfield lighting and left it incandescent for the upper.

#1340 5 months ago

So I ended up moving all of the GI back to incandescent. Really made things a lot better IMO and helps soften the field plus I get the dimming back. I left the under playfield lights as is - they are 1 LED color matched with the domes removed so I didn't really see any point in changing them as it wouldn't drastically change anything.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

#1341 5 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I left the under playfield lights as is - they are 1 LED color matched

You may try white LEDs under the martian target inserts. Green LEDs washes the drawings out. White LEDs light them well while keeping the white outlines and red eyes intact.

#1342 5 months ago

The uv strip looks much more intense with the phone camera but it's not really this bright playing the game. Uv strip lights up the bottom of the playfield and makes all the gitd rubbers and balls really glow. Added 2 spotlights to get the middle of the pf.
I like colorful game. I'm very happy with how this came out.
Everything was done with Lights Out bulbs/strip.
Wish I could post a video with the green balls flying around.

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#1343 5 months ago

Does use of LED OCD boards allow for LEDs to be used but still get the same effect of the incandescents?
Lots of my back LEDs were blown and almost looked melted and/or had some sort of brownish fluid oozing from under the cap. I'm assuming the dimming effects wore them out very quickly.

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

You may try white LEDs under the martian target inserts. Green LEDs washes the drawings out. White LEDs light them well while keeping the white outlines and red eyes intact.

Apparently it does! I never even realized these had red/white in them. Thanks for the tip. I'll try it out and post results.

#1344 5 months ago

To your first question yes it does.

Do you have an OCD board in the game? I ask because I've never heard of one being made for this game or one being put in.

Sounds like you may have a problem with your board and your lights are being overdriven.

I've had an OCD board in my Avatar and NASCAR for a couple of years now and have had no problem of them dimming or brown stuff oozing out.

Can you post a close up picture of a couple of those leds?

#1345 5 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

To your first question yes it does.
Do you have an OCD board in the game? I ask because I've never heard of one being made for this game or one being put in.
Sounds like you may have a problem with your board and your lights are being overdriven.
I've had an OCD board in my Avatar and NASCAR for a couple of years now and have had no problem of them dimming or brown stuff oozing out.
Can you post a close up picture of a couple of those leds?

No mine doesn't have an OCD board or at least that I've discovered. I just making sure I understood how they worked. I didn't see anything pin2k specific but that was my next question.

I'll get some pics of the bulbs once I get back to the house.

Few other questions.
Read some previous comments ( I think it was way back on like page 6) and saw about replacing the power supply with AT or ATX. Just a question about the supply that was linked. Why is the AT 230w and the ATX is 480 watt. Am I missing something obvious? What wattage should we be using for RFM and SW1?
StarTech.com 230 Watt PS2 Replacement Computer PC Power Supply - PS2POWER230 amazon.com link » Logisys Corp. 480W 240-Pin Black Beauty ATX 20+4 Power Supply PS480D-BK amazon.com link »

What's everyone using for a power supply replacement?
What about for fan replacements?
Any other preventative maintenance things I should be replacing?

#1346 5 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

No mine doesn't have an OCD board or at least that I've discovered. I just making sure I understood how they worked.

That's what I thought. Ask Art (Oldpinguy) he owned Comet and he knows bulbs.

#1347 5 months ago

So upon further inspections I think that what I was seeing is just a weird discoloration that was coming through on the red and white LEDs around the plastic dome and the color band. That combined with years of dirt and dust made it look more oozey. I noticed that any bulbs that had the caps removed didn't show these same discoloration.

IMG_3743 (resized).JPG

#1348 5 months ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

So upon further inspections I think that what I was seeing is just a weird discoloration that was coming through on the red and white LEDs around the plastic dome and the color band. That combined with years of dirt and dust made it look more oozey. I noticed that any bulbs that had the caps removed didn't show these same discoloration.

That's good. I knew there had to be a simple answer.

1 week later
#1349 4 months ago

Does anyone have any experience with their RFM cutting off mid game - like a full power loss? I've had a few issues over the last few days

1. I had just moved the game about 2 ft. by nudging it along. Started playing. Got a few games in and everything went black.
2. Couldn't find an obvious solution so started playing again. 30 minute later - game cuts out. Can't find anything wrong. No smoke. No smells. No black surge marks anywhere I can find under PF. Resets fine. Play 5 more games no issues. Turn off power and go to bed.
3. Next day, sliding PF out with game on (I know, it should be off please no lectures). "Jiggle" PF to get into lock slots on rails and everything goes black.
4. Start checking molex connectors and find a few that are inserted but not "clipped" like the almost 20 year old plastic has lost its "spring"
5. Think that maybe I found the problem. Had the game on for 4-5 hours while playing throughout the night (20 ish games) no issues. Ball gets stuck on a switch and I start rocking the machine. DARKNESS!

Any thoughts? All the fuses are fine. It's a hard cutoff as if I pulled the power cord. Fan is working on board and power supply and I pulled the CPU cover off of the CPU box so I don't think it's overheating related. Power distribution box is showing 123V in and out.

Is there someplace else I should be looking? Only thing I can think to do is go through molex by molex and check connections - probably already touched >50%.

Bad CPU power supply?

Any random places to check are greatly appreciated.

#1350 4 months ago

Check capacitors on PC CPU-board, you can probably tell if they are bad by just looking.

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