RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by WhiskeyTango
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#2251 14 days ago

Molex Mini-Fit Jr partnumber:5566-06A

#2252 14 days ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

Molex Mini-Fit Jr partnumber:5566-06A

Cool. The image from the product sheet looks like the same keying.

Screen Shot 2018-11-25 at 9.48.19 PM (resized).png
#2253 13 days ago

Has anyone had any luck installing a bill acceptor into their pin2k? how did you do it? I see no plug for one. thanks

#2254 10 days ago

Hello, new to the club with an SWE1 with an RFM kit I will be picking up this weekend.

I know of high recommendations for getting everything working on Nucore, but I am going to try the traditional route with the Prism card for now.

Tech Question: I have created a functioning XP machine running on Virtual Box and loaded the Pinball 2000 updater software which launched properly. I have a USB->Null serial cable on order to hopefully handle updates. Has anyone been able to do this in the past? I am hoping to be able to update the ROMS through a modern machine using this virtual environment and without having to get into a PUB card.

#2255 10 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Tech Question: I have created a functioning XP machine running on Virtual Box and loaded the Pinball 2000 updater software which launched properly. I have a USB->Null serial cable on order to hopefully handle updates. Has anyone been able to do this in the past? I am hoping to be able to update the ROMS through a modern machine using this virtual environment and without having to get into a PUB card.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/44#post-4608547

#2256 10 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

I have created a functioning XP machine running on Virtual Box and loaded the Pinball 2000 updater software which launched properly. I have a USB->Null serial cable on order to hopefully handle updates. Has anyone been able to do this in the past? I am hoping to be able to update the ROMS through a modern machine using this virtual environment and without having to get into a PUB card.

A few days ago, I have updated my RFM with Windows 2000 on VirtualBox running on my MacBook.
Did work without a problem.

#2257 10 days ago

This is the greatest machine on the planet. There is no need to update to software above v1.5, or change to Nucore, Pinbox, or any other substitute unless it is broken. Enjoy killing those martians!

#2258 10 days ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

A few days ago, I have updated my RFM with Windows 2000 on VirtualBox running on my MacBook.
Did work without a problem.

Cool....this sounds promising now. What cable did you use? I am using a Window's Surface and hope the following works as a connection: amazon.com link »

#2259 10 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Cool....this sounds promising now. What cable did you use? I am using a Window's Surface and hope the following works as a connection: amazon.com link »

I just needed a USB to Serial adapter and a Nullmodem cable If you have any issues. Let me know I might can help.

#2260 9 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Cool....this sounds promising now. What cable did you use? I am using a Window's Surface and hope the following works as a connection: amazon.com link »

also need to use the work around to install the software in 64 bit windows (old installer is 16 bit) https://reactos.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10988

#2261 9 days ago
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

also need to use the work around to install the software in 64 bit windows (old installer is 16 bit) https://reactos.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10988

I setup a 32bit Virtual Box running XP and was able to get the Williams updater software to install without issue.

Now I am just waiting for the cable.

#2262 9 days ago

This is going to sound like a really stupid question, but once I update the ROMS on RFM using the updater, when I swap out for SWE1 and then back to RFM, will I need to do the update again? Basically, does the "daughter" card hold the update?

#2263 9 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Basically, does the "daughter" card hold the update?

Unfortunately, no. The updates are held on the main part of the prism card. That's another reason it's nice to have two prism cards if you are going to swap often.

#2264 9 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Unfortunately, no. The updates are held on the main part of the prism card. That's another reason it's nice to have have two prism cards if you are going to swap often.

That's what I thought. Thank you!

#2265 9 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Now I am just waiting for the cable.

I just can’t wait. So i have Build my own

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#2266 8 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm one of those owners that are missing the PF spotlights on the two slingshots and as the actual games is rather dark I want to add them myself.
...
So, can someone here that actually have these two spotlights mounted please take a few good pics below their PF so I (and others) can see where the cables should go?
Thanks.

As stated earlier, I don't have any empty connectors to plug the spotlights into below my PF, so could any of you please take 5 min and trace the four cables (two for each spotlight) and see where they end up connecting to? I would appreciate it a lot!

#2267 8 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

As stated earlier, I don't have any empty connectors to plug the spotlights into below my PF, so could any of you please take 5 min and trace the four cables (two for each spotlight) and see where they end up connecting to? I would appreciate it a lot!

All lamps including GI are a part of the lamp matrix. One side of both spot lamps gets red/grey from the row and the left slingshot spot gets yellow/brown and the right gets yellow/red. You can connect them anywhere that is convenient as long as you keep the daisy chain intact

1201181213a~01 (resized).jpginCollage_20181201_122218507 (resized).jpg

#2268 8 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

All lamps including GI are a part of the lamp matrix. One side of both spot lamps gets red/grey from the row and the left slingshot spot gets yellow/brown and the right gets yellow/red. You can connect them anywhere that is convenient as long as you keep the daisy chain intact
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome answer, now I just need to understand the lamp matrix a bit better

Anyway, this info should be enough for me to fix the spots, lots of thanks!

#2269 8 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Awesome answer, now I just need to understand the lamp matrix a bit better
Anyway, this info should be enough for me to fix the spots, lots of thanks!

Watch the video link below. Please make sure your spot lamps have diodes across the terminals. If they dont, you can add the diodes. Someone replaced my spot lamps with lamps with no diodes when I bought RFM. It was confused and all the lamps acted wonky.

#2270 8 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Watch the video link below. Please make sure your spot lamps have diodes across the terminals. If they dont, you can add the diodes. Someone replaced my spot lamps with lamps with no diodes when I bought RFM. It was confused and all the lamps acted wonky.

Don't see any video URL in your post but I did some googling myself and found a video explaining the lamp matrix. Before that I only had a vague understanding of it (thus why I wanted someone to point out exact points to connect), but after watching it I finally understands how the lightning actually works.

Basically I should be good doing the following:
1. Trace the existing daisy-chains for both spots and find the previous lamp connector in the two columns and just continue the chain to the newly added spots.
2. The other two spotlight cables can be connected to anywhere on the same lamp row (8B)
3. Add a diode between both cables on each spotlight. If I understand the schematics correctly the two blocking diodes should go from column to row; ie flow is from column to row and blocks the other way.

Any pointers to what type of diodes I need (nr/code) ? I could ofc open my game and see if I could find any marking on the existing ones, but I was hoping the same type are being used all over so someone already knows the type.

Thanks

#2271 7 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

3. Add a diode between both cables on each spotlight. If I understand the schematics correctly the two blocking diodes should go from column to row; ie flow is from column to row and blocks the other way.

Yes, except I misspoke. The steering diodes are in series with the lamps. The striped side (cathode) of the diode attached to the lamp terminal opposite of the terminal that you attach the yellow with x stripe row wire. Then the red with x stripe column wire attaches to the anode of the diode. Current flows from column to row. Standard general purpose 1N series diodes are fine. I use 1N4004 for them. Hope this is a little clearer, refer to the diagram below.

Screenshot at 2018-12-02 05-42-51 (resized).png
#2272 7 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, except I misspoke. The steering diodes are in series with the lamps. The striped side (cathode) of the diode attached to the lamp terminal opposite of the terminal that you attach the yellow with x stripe row wire. Then the red with x stripe column wire attaches to the anode of the diode. Current flows from column to row. Standard general purpose 1N series diodes are fine. I use 1N4004 for them. Hope this is a little clearer, refer to the diagram below.
[quoted image]

A while after I posted last time I realized that I was thinking about the normal lamp holders located below the PF; they have a layout of the connectors making it "look like" the diode are soldered in parallel when they are in fact serial there too. The spotlight only have two connectors/cables and if the diode would be mounted in parallel around the lamp a lot of the current would bypass the lamp, which isn't what we want The same is shown in your diagram above; i.e. in serial is the way to go.

I will buy the needed diodes the coming week and try this out. Hopefully I can post some pics/guideline for others if successful.

#2273 6 days ago

Well, I've joined the club. Picked up an RFM/SWE combo this past weekend. Currently it is setup as SWE1, but I plan on getting RFM into the cabinet within the next week or so after a cliffy and some other parts on order show up. Game was born as RFM and had an HUO SWE1 kit. The RFM portion is lightly used with a small amount of wear in the SOL hole. It also has a broken plastic above the eject which sounds like a common problem.

Some general PB2K observations:
1. HEAVY! I own a WOZ, HH, and have helped move two Hobbits, but nothing compares to this thing. Both pieces are heavy and that head is downright awkward to get up and down stairs. It took me two trips to get it home with my 20 year old son.
2. Great design! What a great final design from Williams. The diagnostic tools were way ahead of their time and the system is built like a tank. I love the use of premium parts through and through on it.
3. Awesome sound! Best sounding pinball game before JJP games, bar none.
4. Innovative! I love the hologram effect and so does my family. My wife played it more this past weekend over all of our games combined in the past year. She just loved the monitor effect. The main reason I picked it up was for my twin son's who fell in love with it 12 years ago or so. I always said that if one came up, I would grab it.
5. LEDs. I tried some LED's in some strategic places and think I am going to stick with incandescent bulbs due to the cool dimming effect. I am going to run some LED flashers in some key areas to help out the light show, but overall, I think the game deserves a stock look.
6. Nucore. I am going to work with the stock system for now but will start gathering the right pieces to build a Nucore computer. The monitor in mine is a Dukscan and seems to have a perfect CRT picture.
7. Mods. The RFM came with the older saucer LED mod as well as LED eyed aliens. Hope to have those installed ASAP as well.

The one thing I DO NEED is a source or alternative to the WILLIAMS DAUGHTER BOARD SEPARATION TOOL. I know its a small nylon piece but I can't find the part number in any of the lists with RFM or SWE1. Does anyone have a source for this tool or an alternative from Amazon? I checked Planetary, Marco, and Pinball Life.

#2274 6 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Well, I've joined the club. .

Welcome to the club
- YES! By far a monster of heavy and awkward
I was going to try to bring the head down the stairs by myself. No way...I enlisted help
- my buddy who is not a pinball hobbyist owns RFM because it is a great example of the tech and diagnostics
- The sound is so great you don't need upgrades. Stock is perfect.
- Stock incandescent works as it should and looks fantastic. LEDs inhibit the dimming and the overall look of the game....I don't like them in this title.
- the only mod I added was the synchronized saucer LEDs. Flying saucers beg to have them, and already had holes around the perimeter
- I use the stock Prism, but it is comforting to know I have a working Pinbox waiting in storage in case of catastrophe.

#2275 6 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Stock incandescent works as it should and looks fantastic. LEDs inhibit the dimming and the overall look of the game....I don't like them in this title.

You unfortunately lose the fading effects with LEDs, but with LEDs, things really pop. I just ended up doing LEDs. It looked too dark and dim compared to my other games.

Maybe someday there will be an LED OCD mod available...

One other thing I did was add the ultimarc video amplifier, which really brightens up the display a lot and provides richer colors. It's fairly inexpensive too.

#2276 6 days ago

This RFM has clicking audio. Updated to 1.5 and everything tested good, but the audio still clicks. Diagnostic report show U109 checksum error, so I'm assuming this is the cause. Is there any option aside from replacing the ROM?

#2277 6 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Well, I've joined the club. Picked up an RFM/SWE combo this past weekend. Currently it is setup as SWE1, but I plan on getting RFM into the cabinet within the next week or so after a cliffy and some other parts on order show up. Game was born as RFM and had an HUO SWE1 kit. The RFM portion is lightly used with a small amount of wear in the SOL hole. It also has a broken plastic above the eject which sounds like a common problem.
Some general PB2K observations:
1. HEAVY! I own a WOZ, HH, and have helped move two Hobbits, but nothing compares to this thing. Both pieces are heavy and that head is downright awkward to get up and down stairs. It took me two trips to get it home with my 20 year old son.
2. Great design! What a great final design from Williams. The diagnostic tools were way ahead of their time and the system is built like a tank. I love the use of premium parts through and through on it.
3. Awesome sound! Best sounding pinball game before JJP games, bar none.
4. Innovative! I love the hologram effect and so does my family. My wife played it more this past weekend over all of our games combined in the past year. She just loved the monitor effect. The main reason I picked it up was for my twin son's who fell in love with it 12 years ago or so. I always said that if one came up, I would grab it.
5. LEDs. I tried some LED's in some strategic places and think I am going to stick with incandescent bulbs due to the cool dimming effect. I am going to run some LED flashers in some key areas to help out the light show, but overall, I think the game deserves a stock look.
6. Nucore. I am going to work with the stock system for now but will start gathering the right pieces to build a Nucore computer. The monitor in mine is a Dukscan and seems to have a perfect CRT picture.
7. Mods. The RFM came with the older saucer LED mod as well as LED eyed aliens. Hope to have those installed ASAP as well.
The one thing I DO NEED is a source or alternative to the WILLIAMS DAUGHTER BOARD SEPARATION TOOL. I know its a small nylon piece but I can't find the part number in any of the lists with RFM or SWE1. Does anyone have a source for this tool or an alternative from Amazon? I checked Planetary, Marco, and Pinball Life.

Welcome to the club. I have a powered sub on mine and I like it. I also have the 3d tl which is the best one they ever offered, it has the led back light which does a better job at lighting it up. Have fun.

#2278 5 days ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

You unfortunately lose the fading effects with LEDs, but with LEDs, things really pop. I just ended up doing LEDs. It looked too dark and dim compared to my other games.
Maybe someday there will be an LED OCD mod available...
One other thing I did was add the ultimarc video amplifier, which really brightens up the display a lot and provides richer colors. It's fairly inexpensive too.

You also lose the lamp diagnostics with LEDs, which although not required is a really cool part of the tech of this series. I like the games overall dark look. I also added the video amp.

#2279 5 days ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

This RFM has clicking audio. Updated to 1.5 and everything tested good, but the audio still clicks. Diagnostic report show U109 checksum error, so I'm assuming this is the cause. Is there any option aside from replacing the ROM?

When installing Ep1 ROMs on a game that ran before with RFM 1.4 or 1.5 on it,
the game will report "checksum U109" problems. Disable Update SW before swap
and so a serial update of the sound and Program flash directly after swap.
http://www.pinball2000.de/pin2000_rfm_ep1_swap.html

#2280 5 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

The one thing I DO NEED is a source or alternative to the WILLIAMS DAUGHTER BOARD SEPARATION TOOL. I know its a small nylon piece but I can't find the part number in any of the lists with RFM or SWE1. Does anyone have a source for this tool or an alternative from Amazon? I checked Planetary, Marco, and Pinball Life.

I purchased one a while back but I'll be damned if I can remember which supplier I got it from (it was probably one of the australian guys, mr. pinball or pinball spare parts australia). those cell phone spudger tools will work in a pinch, since it's nearly the same

just be careful to work both ends evenly when spreading the 2 boards apart

#2281 4 days ago

I am going to post this in here for future reference. I know other people just buying these Pinball 2000 machines will want as much reference material they can get their hands on for doing updates using the original Prism Card system that came with these games.

Here are some steps I took in 2018 to handle these updates.

1. I used a fairly modern laptop running Window's 10 to start. It must have at least one free USB port.
2. I created a 32-bit Windows XP Machine using Oracle Virtual Box (https://www.virtualbox.org/) which is a free download and installation. I did have to provide Window's XP installation files which I happened to have on a thumb drive. If you are not familiar with Virtual Box, its fairly straightforward to navigate, but there are some setup things that you need to do once you create the machine.

The main thing you must do is setup the serial port on the machine so it is mapped properly to the host machine. I didn't do this correct and the computer could not successfully connect to the game. See my settings below, which allowed it to work correctly.

3. I purchased the following USB->Null Modem cable from Amazon amazon.com link » It DOES have Window's drivers that will need to be installed on your Host computer. I was able to get the latest ones from the company's website. Once you install them, it will most likely map itself to COM3 which will not work for handling the updates. You will need to enter the Device Manager on your Host computer (not your Virtual Box) and click on the Advanced button to re-route the assignment to COM1. The Williams Update software appears to be able to handle everything on COM2 as well, but if you choose this route you will need to change your settings within the Virtual Box routing described in step 2 above.

Please PM me if you run into roadblocks on this. I am still learning myself, so hopefully some of these tips will save you time.

VBoxSerialSetup (resized).PNG
#2282 4 days ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I also have the 3d tl which is the best one they ever offered

Completely agree with this. I recently bought an AFMr, so I got a matching 3D translite for that one as well, and it's nowhere near as good as the RFM one I have. Almost makes me wonder if the AFM one I got is defective; muted colors, blurry, streaky, etc.

#2283 3 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

I am going to post this in here for future reference. I know other people just buying these Pinball 2000 machines will want as much reference material they can get their hands on for doing updates using the original Prism Card system that came with these games.
Here are some steps I took in 2018 to handle these updates.
1. I used a fairly modern laptop running Window's 10 to start. It must have at least one free USB port.
2. I created a 32-bit Windows XP Machine using Oracle Virtual Box (https://www.virtualbox.org/) which is a free download and installation. I did have to provide Window's XP installation files which I happened to have on a thumb drive. If you are not familiar with Virtual Box, its fairly straightforward to navigate, but there are some setup things that you need to do once you create the machine.
The main thing you must do is setup the serial port on the machine so it is mapped properly to the host machine. I didn't do this correct and the computer could not successfully connect to the game. See my settings below, which allowed it to work correctly.
3. I purchased the following USB->Null Modem cable from Amazon amazon.com link » It DOES have Window's drivers that will need to be installed on your Host computer. I was able to get the latest ones from the company's website. Once you install them, it will most likely map itself to COM3 which will not work for handling the updates. You will need to enter the Device Manager on your Host computer (not your Virtual Box) and click on the Advanced button to re-route the assignment to COM1. The Williams Update software appears to be able to handle everything on COM2 as well, but if you choose this route you will need to change your settings within the Virtual Box routing described in step 2 above.
Please PM me if you run into roadblocks on this. I am still learning myself, so hopefully some of these tips will save you time.[quoted image]

Great and useful infos, thanks!

#2284 3 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

The main thing you must do is setup the serial port on the machine so it is mapped properly to the host machine. I didn't do this correct and the computer could not successfully connect to the game. See my settings below, which allowed it to work correctly.

Thanks for this info.
The virtual XP mode on Win 7 would lose track of port mapping and need to be re-mapped every time it was closed and then re-opened. Does Virtual Box handle this better?

#2285 3 days ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Thanks for this info.
The virtual XP mode on Win 7 would lose track of port mapping and need to be re-mapped every time it was closed and then re-opened. Does Virtual Box handle this better?

Yes, the mapping stays after total shutdown, etc. I am not sure about how mapping is handled on the host machine after the USB->NULL cable is pulled. This might need a remap to port 1 in Device Manager after it is reattached.

#2286 3 days ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Yes, the mapping stays after total shutdown, etc. I am not sure about how mapping is handled on the host machine after the USB->NULL cable is pulled. This might need a remap to port 1 in Device Manager after it is reattached.

Jesus, I understand virtually nothing you posted. I'm an idiot.

#2287 3 days ago
Quoted from robotron911:

Jesus, I understand virtually nothing you posted. I'm an idiot.

Ha! Exactly how I feel when someone is instructing me on how to troubleshoot an EM game!

#2288 3 days ago

I was visiting a friend to take some reference pictures of his RFM. But his game seemed to be a bit different compared to my game. His PDB cover was black, mine is white. And his Tilt assembly was attached to the right. Any information about what is original?

#2289 3 days ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Any information about what is original?

Both are. Minor changes like that can happen throughout a game's production as they find things that can cut costs, if a material becomes unavailable or cheaper, or maybe they find something that isn't working well in the game, or change something for ease of manufacturing.

I've owned multiple examples of other titles, and occasionally there are some changes between them, especially if it's a game with an early serial number compared to a much later one.

#2290 3 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

When installing Ep1 ROMs on a game that ran before with RFM 1.4 or 1.5 on it,
the game will report "checksum U109" problems. Disable Update SW before swap
and so a serial update of the sound and Program flash directly after swap.
http://www.pinball2000.de/pin2000_rfm_ep1_swap.html

The game had RFM on it already and I'm not doing a swap. I just updated the game from an earlier version.

#2291 9 hours ago

Just finished cleaning my 1000€ RFM wich i saved from getting junked... It’s incredible how well Diamondplate holds up even after 20 Years <3

9376C30E-1593-4CB5-8130-C725A1994E17.jpeg
#2292 2 hours ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Just finished cleaning my 1000€ RFM wich i saved from getting junked... It’s incredible how well Diamondplate holds up even after 20 Years &lt;3[quoted image]

She looks great and an incredible price too. Congrats!

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