(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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There are 3357 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 68.
#1501 2 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

A friend of mine bought a RFM with LEDs throughout. We shopped it and upgraded it to incandescents. Looked a LOT better.

I agree.led in rfm flat out sucks.i would led my Capt. Fantastic before rfm and that's not happening either.

#1502 2 years ago

I think the leds in my RFM look fantastic. There is no way I would go back to incandescent.

#1503 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I think the leds in my RFM look fantastic. There is no way I would go back to incandescent.

Same here.

#1504 2 years ago

This is one that I personally struggled with. For one, it's a very cool diagnostic feature that when using standard bulbs that you get a map that shows where bulbs have failed. You lose that historical feature that was cutting edge for it's time when you change to LEDs. Plus, the dimming and gradual face effects are lost. I absolutely love LEDs in a lot of games, but there are a few titles that demand to remain incandescent, this is one of them.

#1505 2 years ago

Need some help with a friend's game - he blew fuse F103 and then noticed the trough eject coil was stinky and burnt looking. He installed a new coil and fuse, powered the game on while watching it from underneath to make sure the new coil wouldn't lock on due to a bad transistor, but as soon as he turned the game on F103 blew again and no coil activity at all. So I'm thinking there is a short somewhere - is the likely culprit the drive transistor Q51? He doesn't have a multimeter to test right now.

EDIT: Solved, he called me right after I posted! So I advised him to disconnect each coil on F103 and try to power up, then if it works connect each coil one by one until the fuse blows. Turns out his left jet bumper was sticking and locking up, probably a bad coil at this point which caused the fuse to blow. He's going to disable it for now and order some parts for a full rebuild since the washers/links looks really worn anyways.

#1506 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Need some help with a friend's game - he blew fuse F103 and then noticed the trough eject coil was stinky and burnt looking. He installed a new coil and fuse, powered the game on while watching it from underneath to make sure the new coil wouldn't lock on due to a bad transistor, but as soon as he turned the game on F103 blew again and no coil activity at all. So I'm thinking there is a short somewhere - is the likely culprit the drive transistor Q51? He doesn't have a multimeter to test right now.

F103 is a solenoid fuse, so Q51, or any drive transistor, or another component associated with a drive transistor could be a problem. There's​ no efficient way to diagnose this and repair it properly without measurement tools like a DMM or ocilloscope, anything else is guesswork.

#1507 2 years ago

Can someone measure the posts that the sling spots mount on? They don't seem to be listed in the manual. Also i can't seem to find where to adjust the screen scaling for the CRT. I have my images cropped on the edges/overscanning the monitor. I know there are pots behind the neck, but can't find one labelled size or span or similar.

#1508 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Can someone measure the posts that the sling spots mount on? They don't seem to be listed in the manual. Also i can't seem to find where to adjust the screen scaling for the CRT. I have my images cropped on the edges/overscanning the monitor. I know there are pots behind the neck, but can't find one labelled size or span or similar.

The neck CRT adjustments are typically for the color drivers only. Scaling will either be on the board or the remote PCB. Some boards have no width adjustment other than the width coil. That one you would be best off using a plastic tool designed for it.

#1509 2 years ago

Question on re-attaching side rails. I got the heavy duty tape like what was used to attach them originally but I'm thinking I may want to take them off again in the future (i.e. to be powder coated) and don't want to cause damage to the decals should I do that. Any ideas for a more temporary attachment? Maybe just get weak mounting tape?

#1510 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Question on re-attaching side rails. I got the heavy duty tape like what was used to attach them originally but I'm thinking I may want to take them off again in the future (i.e. to be powder coated) and don't want to cause damage to the decals should I do that. Any ideas for a more temporary attachment? Maybe just get weak mounting tape?

You really don't need tape. I have lollypop rails on my games and just the front and back bolts hold them on just fine so the same would be true for yours. No tape.

#1511 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

The neck CRT adjustments are typically for the color drivers only. Scaling will either be on the board or the remote PCB. Some boards have no width adjustment other than the width coil. That one you would be best off using a plastic tool designed for it.

Yep my adjustment board is mounted behind the neck in an awkward place. Non-original Samsung monitor. I'll make an adjustment and see.

#1512 2 years ago

I have a sheet of NOS P2K glass (straight from williams, still in the original shipping box). the box is huge and heavy (quad walled cardboard) and has foam to keep the glass floating in the center of it. shipping costs will probably be substantial (UPS ground is probably the most cost effective)

asking: $300 plus shipping

I will be able to bring it with me to the chicago expo in october if no one is local to me (livonia, michigan)

#1513 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Can someone measure the posts that the sling spots mount on? They don't seem to be listed in the manual.

Posts are 1.25 inch.

#1514 2 years ago

Hello all. Does anyone knew who carries original style RFM flippers with the logo and right color?

I've looked all around at the major vendors and none of them have the Williams embossed green flippers. I have one that the flipper has broken loose on the shaft and drops each time a ball hits it.

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
Tom

#1515 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceWar:

Hello all. Does anyone knew who carries original style RFM flippers with the logo and right color?
I've looked all around at the major vendors and none of them have the Williams embossed green flippers. I have one that the flipper has broken loose on the shaft and drops each time a ball hits it.
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
Tom

I believe you can't find them because you're looking for the wrong flipper color. I believe the original color is white.

#1516 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I believe you can't find them because you're looking for the wrong flipper color. I believe the original color is white.

I have black no logo bats with regular red rubbers, I like the way it looks and plays.

#1517 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I believe you can't find them because you're looking for the wrong flipper color. I believe the original color is white.

Humm, really? Mine are currently green with the 'W' logo on top with black rubbers. You're saying white, someone else says black. Ack!

Now I'm not sure what to use.... any other thoughts, or what color do others have in their games?

Thx
Tom

#1518 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

I believe you can't find them because you're looking for the wrong flipper color. I believe the original color is white.

Ok - I googled RFM playfield pictures and I believe ypurchn is right - 97% of the pictures I found the flippers are white. Amazing, the number of years I've owned this game and never noticed that. Oh well. Learn something new every day. I'll order white flippers.

Regards,
Tom

#1519 2 years ago

Mine are white, check the manual. Googling that part number took me right to Marcos, listed as white: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-10110-5

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#1520 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceWar:

Ok - I googled RFM playfield pictures and I believe ypurchn is right - 97% of the pictures I found the flippers are white. Amazing, the number of years I've owned this game and never noticed that. Oh well. Learn something new every day. I'll order white flippers.

Just go with whatever colour pleases you I have black bats with green superbands mainly cause the green matches with my green T-Molding.

#1521 2 years ago

Thanks for looking up that info for me drunkbaby.

Tom

#1522 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceWar:

Thanks for looking up that info for me drunkbaby.
Tom

You could always get the PPS light up bats and get the green ones.

#1523 2 years ago

My RFM plans:

Everything I list below is already purchased so it's just a matter of time for me.

I'm going to remove the playfield, head, computer, monitor, and legs. Remove all wiring from lower cabinet. Remove side art and replace with new. Replace side rails, T-Moulding, legs, black levelers. On playfield, new plastics set, Bill Ung kit, new incandescent bulbs, new P2K glass. I also have an alien who doesn't jump that well so will need repair. I haven't evaluated the rest of the parts but I'll replace/repair anything that needs it.

Computer will be replaced with a Pinbox. Monitor replaced with a 20" 4X3 Dell flat panel. 3D Translite.

Oh and I have a NOS SW:E1 playfield I need to shop but I'll be adding it as well.

I'm planning to finish my Police Force in less than a month so I think I'll be starting this in Mid-June; After I recover from the Southern Fried Gameroom Expo.

#1525 2 years ago

Your the first to tell us, thanks a million. I checked a couple months ago and Mike said soon. I gotta get me one now but it's gonna have to wait, I just spent $430 on 2 front tires for the Mustang. The 2 back ones are gonna be $470.

#1526 2 years ago

Anyone going to PAGG I believe they will be bringing P2K glass there for $200 if you request in advance. See the PAGG thread for details.

#1527 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Anyone going to PAGG I believe they will be bringing P2K glass there for $200 if you request in advance. See the PAGG thread for details.

Damn, that's $52 off. What a deal.

#1528 2 years ago

Yeah, plus no shipping Already have a perfect piece though, otherwise I'd pick one up in a heartbeat.

#1529 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yeah, plus no shipping Already have a perfect piece though, otherwise I'd pick one up in a heartbeat.

That's including shipping.

#1530 2 years ago

Found my spotlight parts. Now the problem is where they connect in. Apparently german machines didn't ship with spots? Is there a different loom for these machines? I have no spare plugs under the play field to hook the lights into. My saucers are the only plugs available near the slings...

Added over 3 years ago: Has anyone added slingshot spotlights to early run German machines? Did you need to wire back to the lamp matrix or did you find somewhere in the loom to hook into?

#1531 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Found my spotlight parts. Now the problem is where they connect in. Apparently german machines didn't ship with spots? Is there a different loom for these machines? I have no spare plugs under the play field to hook the lights into. My saucers are the only plugs available near the slings...
Added today: Has anyone added slingshot spotlights to early run German machines? Did you need to wire back to the lamp matrix or did you find somewhere in the loom to hook into?

I don't have info on where they connect to specifically on RFM, but they would not be connected to the lamp matrix. If they are for GI then they you can tap into another GI bulb nearby if there is really no connector for them.

#1532 2 years ago

There is technically no GI on RFM since every lamp is controlled. I can check the wires that drive the spotlitghts when I get home.

#1533 2 years ago
Quoted from Tlamb:

There is technically no GI on RFM since every lamp is controlled. I can check the wires that drive the spotlitghts when I get home.

Thank you. Forgive my comment about not hooking them up to the lamp matrix then!

#1534 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Thank you. Forgive my comment about not hooking them up to the lamp matrix then!

Make sure your spots have diodes on them, or they will screw up the lamp matrix.

#1535 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Make sure your spots have diodes on them, or they will screw up the lamp matrix.

Yeah, I just posted about that problem a couple weeks ago. Seems it has happened to a few people.

#1536 2 years ago

Right Slingshot Spotlight - Lamp10B Red-Grey / Yellow-Brown
Left Slingshot Spotlight - Lamp 20B Red-Grey / Yellow-Red

Not sure if those wires would be in your harness since they arent used, though I would image they are. Make sure the diode is on the Red-Grey line, band facing the connector, not the lamp.

#1538 2 years ago

I know what the spots should connect to, but I don't see any wires of that colour in my loom anywhere near the slings, hence my question if anyone else has "added" spots to early German machines.

#1539 2 years ago

Coil diodes are required in Pinball 2000, correct? I am seeing some conflicting info on this.

If coil diodes are required and a coil is installed without the diode, what would the effect be? My friend has a coil that locks on when the game starts. I am thinking the drive transistor needs to be replaced but wonder what else could have happened if he ran a coil without diode when there should be one.

#1540 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Coil diodes are required in Pinball 2000, correct? I am seeing some conflicting info on this.
If coil diodes are required and a coil is installed without the diode, what would the effect be? My friend has a coil that locks on when the game starts. I am thinking the drive transistor needs to be replaced but wonder what else could have happened if he ran a coil without diode when there should be one.

The other thing that would happen is he would immediately burn the driver and it would likely lock the coil back on.

Not sure off the top of my head if P2k included diodes on the driver board. My gut says no.

#1541 2 years ago

So who has the best saucer mods these days? Anything new and improved out there?

#1542 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Coil diodes are required in Pinball 2000, correct? I am seeing some conflicting info on this.
If coil diodes are required and a coil is installed without the diode, what would the effect be? My friend has a coil that locks on when the game starts. I am thinking the drive transistor needs to be replaced but wonder what else could have happened if he ran a coil without diode when there should be one.

When the power to a coil is shutoff, the collapsing magnetic field creates a surge of power upstream through the circuit. This is what destroys driving transistors (and sometimes other components) in a solid state game when the coils do not have a functional diode in the circuit to shunt the backwards surge away safely.

Sometimes this diode is installed across the coils terminals, but it doesn't have to live there, sometime it is located on a separate diode board elsewhere. When it doubt, you can simply buy a coil with an attached diode or add one to the coil. It will not hurt the system to have an additional protection diode there. Just make sure the diode is reversed biased (cathode, or striped side facing positive supply voltage) If you install a coil diode incorrectly with the anode on the power side, you will find out very quickly how good a diode conducts in the forward bias direction as it immediately shorts your power supply to ground and takes out your fuse.

#1543 2 years ago

Thanks guys, that is helpful. I'm still not sure if Pinball 2000 uses coil diodes. I found this high res pic of a board - I see some large rectifying diodes at the top right and another row of 12 diodes towards the center. Not sure if these are for coils or something else, but towards the bottom I see some diodes next to the coil drive transistors which leads me to believe they are NOT on the coils... If I had a game here I would just pop the hood and look! Anybody know for sure? Thanks for your help.

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#1544 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

So who has the best saucer mods these days? Anything new and improved out there?

If you haven't seen it my mod on page 26 looks cool.

#1545 2 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

So who has the best saucer mods these days? Anything new and improved out there?

I've got the RGB Saucer Kit from myPinballs. I haven't seen anything better engineered. Depending on the build cycle you may have to wait a few months after putting your deposit down but it is worth it. He (Jim Askey) also has improved replacement saucers and mentions aluminum saucers by modman on Pinside but they're gone - I got the last set!

http://www.mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

#1546 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I've got the RGB Saucer Kit from myPinballs. I haven't seen anything better engineered. Depending on the build cycle you may have to wait a few months after putting your deposit down but it is worth it.

+ 1 from me. Cool Mod that's been engineered very well and options on saucer colours. That reminds me, must do the software update, need to borrow a lappy.

#1547 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

+ 1 from me. Cool Mod that's been engineered very well and options on saucer colours. That reminds me, must do the software update, need to borrow a lappy.

When was the software update? I just realized that I don't think I ever registered my kit.

#1548 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

When was the software update? I just realized that I don't think I ever registered my kit.

Geeez, got me thinking now. It was a year or more ago i think, only been one update as far as i'm aware. I don't have a lappy, only a desktop and bringing the machine to the PC or visa versa is a pain in the arse

#1549 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Thanks guys, that is helpful. I'm still not sure if Pinball 2000 uses coil diodes. I found this high res pic of a board - I see some large rectifying diodes at the top right and another row of 12 diodes towards the center. Not sure if these are for coils or something else, but towards the bottom I see some diodes next to the coil drive transistors which leads me to believe they are NOT on the coils... If I had a game here I would just pop the hood and look! Anybody know for sure? Thanks for your help.

Need a schematic to be certain but it looks to me visually like diodes are on board and therefore wouldn't be needed on coil. What I'm seeing from your photo is a neat row of diodes right along side the drivers.

I will say that every single one of my coils on my RFM does have dioes on coil though.

#1550 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Need a schematic to be certain but it looks to me visually like diodes are on board and therefore wouldn't be needed on coil. What I'm seeing from your photo is a neat row of diodes right along side the drivers.
I will say that every single one of my coils on my RFM does have dioes on coil though.

The MOSFET drive transistors have freewheel protection diodes, in addition to inductive protection diodes on each coil

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