(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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There are 3440 posts in this topic. You are on page 29 of 69.
#1401 2 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Yes, ball save was added in version 1.3.

Thanks for the replies. 1.6 was the last update, right?

Am I missing much besides ball saver by leaving it at 1.2?

#1402 2 years ago

Yes you are also missing out on open orbit on dead scenes which is kinda rad.

If your going to go through the trouble to update, might as well go all the way to 1.6.

#1403 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Just to close this one out - I pulled the playfield and went through each connector and re-attached it. This seems (fingers crossed!) to have resolved the issue as I've put ~12 games in and no hard shut offs.
In summary, my game was going pitch black or a full loss of power - caps were good, but found ~30% of the connectors to be loose or not fully "clipped" in.
Thanks everyone for the help!
Finally "Attacked Mars" last night... didn't get past stage 3...

Most excellent.

#1404 2 years ago

I think I stopped at 1.5... and didn't upgrade to 1.6.
I don't remember why specifically... it may have had something to due with a bug which prevented a network card from working... or an actual bug.

#1405 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I think I stopped at 1.5... and didn't upgrade to 1.6.
I don't remember why specifically... it may have had something to due with a bug which prevented a network card from working... or an actual bug.

Network cards work fine with 1.6. Very little change from 1.5, but no reason not to go with 1.6 that I am aware of. Some people think you need a Pub card to get 1.6, but that is not the case. I made a package compatible with the Update Manager software years ago.

#1406 2 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Network cards work fine with 1.6. Very little change from 1.5, but no reason not to go with 1.6 that I am aware of. Some people think you need a Pub card to get 1.6, but that is not the case. I made a package compatible with the Download Manager years ago.

Interesting.

#1407 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinfidel:

Hi guys.
Anyway, I installed the tube light and I tell you, it's a MUST have. Not only does it burn a lot cooler but it shines perfectly across the entire translite without reflecting off the PF glass. Additionally, it hooks right into the existing ballast. No modifications or connections are needed. AND, once it's in, you can actually turn the whole light and point it where you want. I actually have mine pointing about 60 degrees upward. It's perfect. Doesn't blind you either. You will love this light.
Here's the link...
amazon.com link »

So I ordered the bulb mentioned here. Before installing this 12-24V bulb, I checked the circuitry and my lighting is operating on 120V. So the bulb mentioned above does NOT work. I believe others have mentioned issues in previous posts but I'm bringing it back up in hopes someone doesn't make my mistake.

So I returned the previous one and went with this instead

amazon.com link »

Very simple to install: removed the starter (2" white capacitor looking thing on the back of the light bracket), disconnect the ballast wires (4" square metal box located in the top left hand corner of the back it has 2 black wires running to/from it), with the ballast removed I had to complete the circuit so I jumpered the wires together. Did this install so if down the road someone wanted to put a fluorescent back in, it could easily be done.

#1408 2 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

I had a flaky right flipper - sometimes it wouldn't flip when button was pushed.
as a test i switched the "flipper switch boards" from left to right and visa versa.
as i suspected the left flipper is now lame.
does anybody have a good spare "flipper switch board" to sell?
I know 'lock when lit' and others sell this part, i just thought i would check here first.
Thanks!
Adam.

Just thought I'd follow up on this. I got a new board from pinball life and installed it tonight. Works great. I also got a microswitch and diode to replace a bad one I had on the right orbit. Big of beam is much more attainable now that that switch works...

#1409 2 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

Just thought I'd follow up on this. I got a new board from pinball life and installed it tonight. Works great. I also got a microswitch and diode to replace a bad one I had on the right orbit. Big of beam is much more attainable now that that switch works...

Hey that's good news.

BIG NEWS!!! The proto of the 3d tl is done so it won't be long now. Anyone going to enter the contest to win it, it's on now.

#1410 2 years ago

I would... except mine is headless due to a cracked neck tube.
Good luck to you guys!

#1411 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I would... except mine is headless due to a cracked neck tube.
Good luck to you guys!

Flat Panel, Flat Panel, Flat Panel!

#1412 2 years ago

A few lingering errors I'm trying to address:

Error message "Lock diverter stuck open" - Wiring looks good. Mechanisms looks good. Can easily actuate by hand under and on top of PF so I don't think anything is binding. Looking at the exploded diagram the only thing that is sticking out to me is a bad coil? Thoughts? Wanted to check before I dropped $25+ on a coil

next one

Error messages: "Drop target switch or up coil bad" also have "Drop target switch or down coil bad" error. Previously had these 2 error messages + "check switch 15 drop target down" - Fixed the switch 15 error by reattaching a loose wire. The drop target still goes up and down. So I'm leaning towards this one being a switch issue? But curious as to why the switch 15 error is now cleared if that's the case.

Only other errors I have (more in case they impact the other 2 issues I'm having) - check switch 18 - shooter lane - pretty sure this one is my fault was readjusting the wireform to lower it and think I damaged the switch itself
switch 63 - left jet - haven't determine this ones exact issue yet but haven't really looked at it

Any help or pointers is appreciated.

#1413 2 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

Flat Panel, Flat Panel, Flat Panel!

I'm suppose to be getting a donor CRT at TPF... I'm *trying* to keep this thing original ... but it's hard to do.
If this donor CRT has bad burn in... or my tube swap become fail... then well; yeah - LCD is the back up plan.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Error message "Lock diverter stuck open" - Wiring looks good. Mechanisms looks good. Can easily actuate by hand under and on top of PF so I don't think anything is binding. Looking at the exploded diagram the only thing that is sticking out to me is a bad coil? Thoughts? Wanted to check before I dropped $25+ on a coil

Did you do a coil test to see if voltage is getting to the coil? I'd be inclined to be a bad coil... or more likely a bad driver transistor.

Quoted from ypurchn:

So I'm leaning towards this one being a switch issue? But curious as to why the switch 15 error is now cleared if that's the case.

I have seen bad switches in my RFM... due to green "gunk" which I wasn't able to determine the cause of. Either solder used on my machine is causing issues... or there the flux used was causing issues. It could be the switch... but I think I'd use the switch diag screen to verify both switches "fire" when the drop target is manually actuated.

#1414 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Did you do a coil test to see if voltage is getting to the coil? I'd be inclined to be a bad coil... or more likely a bad driver transistor.

Ahh yes forget to actually let the machine tell me something. So I just went down and tried it out. Coil drive 37 is working and the gate swings closed. Drive 38 which is the "hold" function causes no movement. So it's getting voltage.

While cycling through the test I noticed that the right flipper "hold" doesn't work either (coil drive 34) - but I've never had issues with this in a game? The only reason I point this out is based on the diagrams it appears they're on the same board driver board and connector - J112

Quoted from Zitt:

I have seen bad switches in my RFM... due to green "gunk" which I wasn't able to determine the cause of. Either solder used on my machine is causing issues... or there the flux used was causing issues. It could be the switch... but I think I'd use the switch diag screen to verify both switches "fire" when the drop target is manually actuated.

So I think the switch knew I was talking about it... wrote these problems down a few days ago after I replaced the switch wire. Didn't even read the test report this time just went right into switch diagnostics. Everything was looking fine. Backed out and looked at the report and now all of the 'drop target switch..." messages are gone. Wondering if maybe it took a few game cycles for this error to clear since this message isn't tied to a direct coil or switch. Maybe after so many faults the machine flags things as an issue. Then it has to see so many instances of the function working before it clears? Could be overdrinking, I mean thinking, this...

Thanks zitt for the quick help!

#1415 2 years ago

Switches, switches, switches. I got one from Italy and had almost the exact same switch errors. Some of them were bad, some had broken wires, and some only needed adjusting.

#1416 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

So I ordered the bulb mentioned here. Before installing this 12-24V bulb, I checked the circuitry and my lighting is operating on 120V. So the bulb mentioned above does NOT work. I believe others have mentioned issues in previous posts but I'm bringing it back up in hopes someone doesn't make my mistake.
So I returned the previous one and went with this instead
amazon.com link »
Very simple to install: removed the starter (2" white capacitor looking thing on the back of the light bracket), disconnect the ballast wires (4" square metal box located in the top left hand corner of the back it has 2 black wires running to/from it), with the ballast removed I had to complete the circuit so I jumpered the wires together. Did this install so if down the road someone wanted to put a fluorescent back in, it could easily be done.

Finished product pic

IMG_3840 (resized).JPG

#1417 2 years ago

I installed one of these:

amazon.com link »

Just get a 4 pin molex to SATA power adapter if you've got the original PS.

I just removed the tube and stuck it to the tube holder and ran the power out of one of the PCI card slots. It has a very nice even light across the back glass.

#1418 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I installed one of these:
amazon.com link »
Just get a 4 pin molex to SATA power adapter if you've got the original PS.
I just removed the tube and stuck it to the tube holder and ran the power out of one of the PCI card slots. It has a very nice even light across the back glass.

I have the led tube and it looks the same, very even. Should make the 3d tl look really good.

#1419 2 years ago

My ballast was toast and 120v ballasts aren't easy to come by here in Australia so this was a pretty easy and cheap fix for what would have been an expensive task to keep original.

#1420 2 years ago

I just cut a piece of foam board to fit, secured with velcro and attached strips of LED's. Got a simple LED dimmer to dial back the brightness right where I like it.

#1421 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I just cut a piece of foam board to fit, secured with velcro and attached strips of LED's. Got a simple LED dimmer to dial back the brightness right where I like it.

That's a good way too.

#1422 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I just cut a piece of foam board to fit, secured with velcro and attached strips of LED's. Got a simple LED dimmer to dial back the brightness right where I like it.

I did the same thing with color changing LEDs and a 1/8" piece of plywood (on a SWEP1 but it still applies )

#1423 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Ahh yes forget to actually let the machine tell me something. So I just went down and tried it out. Coil drive 37 is working and the gate swings closed. Drive 38 which is the "hold" function causes no movement. So it's getting voltage.
While cycling through the test I noticed that the right flipper "hold" doesn't work either (coil drive 34) - but I've never had issues with this in a game? The only reason I point this out is based on the diagrams it appears they're on the same board driver board and connector - J112

Any thoughts from the group before I start a new topic?

#1424 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Any thoughts from the group before I start a new topic?

I got nuttin. Sorry.

#1425 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Any thoughts from the group before I start a new topic?

Unplug/replug connectors, switches, and intermittent wires in IDC connectors. Those have been all of the problems with mine. I still have 4 mode insert lamps that are intermittent and it is the big IDC connector on the light board that I haven't got the guts yet to re-terminate or change to Molex/Trifurcon.

#1426 2 years ago

Shameless plug. Selling a star wars episode 1 kit, comes with translight and shooter rod. Also selling a prism card with daughter board and ROMs. Makes for an easy drop in with your existing P2K cab. PM me if interested.

#1427 2 years ago

I'm proud that mine is in a movie theater,
when I see the drive in theater mode going it just is a cool feeling to see it in action at a theater.

#1428 2 years ago

You know the "real" extraball animation?

And some other abducted animals:

IMG_0034 (resized).JPG

#1429 2 years ago

Wizboy - Are these hidden in the current programming?

#1430 2 years ago

Sadly the extraball animation wasn't implemented in the official software. I prefer it.

If you look closely at the picture than you will notice that the background is also different (silo's on the left and right side).

#1431 2 years ago

Thanks for all your help guys, I've received and replaced all my skip ramp parts. The only original parts are the main bracket, switch, plunger and playfield bracket.. lots of homemade bits and pieces in there...

I also bought and installed a Mantis scoop, it spits the ball out the same place every time! My only concern is the scoop has a much larger lip on the right side which the ball bashes, the original doesn't have this and allows the ball to hit the rubber behind. Anyone had one installed for a while and can report on the condition of this? Mine is already starting to get a little bashed in..

I also vacuumed the cab.. man I'm pretty sure it was all cigarette ash.. wow that smell when you got from a thin layer to a big wad in the vacuum... it was an Italian import..

#1433 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Thanks for all your help guys, I've received and replaced all my skip ramp parts. The only original parts are the main bracket, switch, plunger and playfield bracket.. lots of homemade bits and pieces in there...
I also bought and installed a Mantis scoop, it spits the ball out the same place every time! My only concern is the scoop has a much larger lip on the right side which the ball bashes, the original doesn't have this and allows the ball to hit the rubber behind. Anyone had one installed for a while and can report on the condition of this? Mine is already starting to get a little bashed in..
I also vacuumed the cab.. man I'm pretty sure it was all cigarette ash.. wow that smell when you got from a thin layer to a big wad in the vacuum... it was an Italian import..

Stick a pan of crushed charcoal it there for a couple weeks, worked for one of my games.

#1434 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Stick a pan of crushed charcoal it there for a couple weeks, worked for one of my games.

I've done this with refrigerators that had smells (used to own rental homes). Works like a charm. You can get charcoal from a pet store.

#1435 2 years ago
Quoted from NonStopSwagger:

Shameless plug. Selling a star wars episode 1 kit, comes with translight and shooter rod. Also selling a prism card with daughter board and ROMs. Makes for an easy drop in with your existing P2K cab. PM me if interested.

SWEP1 Kit and PRISM cards are now sold.

#1436 2 years ago

Duplicate post, nothing to see here ...

#1437 2 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I did the same thing with color changing LEDs and a 1/8" piece of plywood (on a SWEP1 but it still applies )
» YouTube video

I dig it.
Is it just wrapped around the back? Can you show a picture of the back and where you have it plugged in? Thanks

#1438 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

I dig it.
Is it just wrapped around the back? Can you show a picture of the back and where you have it plugged in? Thanks

There are "Zitrades 10PCS LED 5050 RGB Strip Light Connector 4 Conductor 10 mm Wide Strip to Strip Jumper" at each end. They are just folder around the back, do a U-turn (where they are attached) and come back around to the front.

My computer (original) has an IEC power pass through, so I just used a male IEC to female IEC to power the 120v power supply that came with the LED kit, which is just tucked behind the plywood. I removed the flourescent transformer for a bit more space so the board fits it right. It's easily unplugged and unscrewed without any permanent modification.

There is a small hole in the middle of the board where i stuck the IR sensor through so I can use the remote to change the color or brightness with the backglass on.

#1439 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I also vacuumed the cab.. man I'm pretty sure it was all cigarette ash.. wow that smell when you got from a thin layer to a big wad in the vacuum... it was an Italian import..

Take everything out of the bottom of the cabinet. Clean each item. Sand the bottom of the cabinet with a power sander. Put it back together. At least that's what I do.

#1440 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I've done this with refrigerators that had smells (used to own rental homes). Works like a charm. You can get charcoal from a pet store.

It should be ACTIVATED charcoal. Often used to remove odors and gases from aquarium s or cat litter.

#1441 2 years ago

Shameless plug, I'm selling my RFM. PM me if you are interested, it will look great beside the new AFMr thats coming out tomorrow!

I'm out of town for the next week, but I have a few pictures on my phone I can send any interested parties. I'll take better ones when I get back.

#1442 2 years ago

Anybody else notice Planetary Pinball is going to have replacement playfield glass available soon?

#1443 2 years ago

Attempted to do the Ultimarc video amp mod. I have a Ducksan/Samsung style monitor and hooked it up like in the picture. I cut the trace for H/V sync and I get no picture at all. Any ideas? The original cable was actually spliced together with the lines running into the amp and this.

20170325_162258 (resized).jpg

20170325_162608 (resized).jpg

#1444 2 years ago
Quoted from drunkbaby:

Attempted to do the Ultimarc video amp mod. I have a Ducksan/Samsung style monitor and hooked it up like in the picture. I cut the trace for H/V sync and I get no picture at all. Any ideas? The original cable was actually spliced together with the lines running into the amp and this.

Is the vga card outputting 5v? Also need to change the male pins on the board and connector to. 100" and if using the original vga cable, for the rgb wires you only use the inner wire (if you twisted the signal and shield wires together this will happen. Ducksans suck to work on! I'm pretty close to pulling trigger on an lcd monitor... Stay tuned.

#1445 2 years ago

If I tested the correct pin it doesn't look like 5V is coming off it. I'll start there.

Someone must have modified my game along the way because the VGA cable was spliced together with the 6 wires that I fed into the amp from the picture above. On the board connected to the monitor, the pins were labeled H V E R G B. I guess E is ground (earth)?

And I thought it was going to be cake since someone had already provided a convenient way to tap the wires into the amp.

#1446 2 years ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

Anybody else notice Planetary Pinball is going to have replacement playfield glass available soon?

I hope it is soon but watch it'll be $349 + $50 shipping or something crazy like that.

2 weeks later
#1447 2 years ago

Hi folks. I am a new RFM owner. I have a bone stock RFM with firmware 1.2 on it. I've already ordered an update stick. What else should I do first? Any "must have" things I should be looking at? Can I put a new model power supply in it or does it need one of the old school AT style power supplies. There are dangerous noises coming from the old one so it is time to do something about it. Everything works on my pin right now but I'd like to make sure it continues to do that for the foreseeable future.

#1448 2 years ago
Quoted from PlayableArt:

Hi folks. I am a new RFM owner. I have a bone stock RFM with firmware 1.2 on it. I've already ordered an update stick. What else should I do first? Any "must have" things I should be looking at? Can I put a new model power supply in it or does it need one of the old school AT style power supplies. There are dangerous noises coming from the old one so it is time to do something about it. Everything works on my pin right now but I'd like to make sure it continues to do that for the foreseeable future.

Welcome to the club, others can help you with keeping it running I can't. My Leg Light-Ups look great on the game if your interested.

IMG_0507 (resized).JPG

#1449 2 years ago
Quoted from PlayableArt:

Hi folks. I am a new RFM owner. I have a bone stock RFM with firmware 1.2 on it. I've already ordered an update stick. What else should I do first? Any "must have" things I should be looking at? Can I put a new model power supply in it or does it need one of the old school AT style power supplies. There are dangerous noises coming from the old one so it is time to do something about it. Everything works on my pin right now but I'd like to make sure it continues to do that for the foreseeable future.

Congratulations on your purchase of an awesome game! Not 100% sure of this but I believe you can use a new model power supply but it has to be modded, so I'd go with the AT power supply, they're pretty cheap and available on e-bay. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the cpu fan as well. Hope this helps. Enjoy!

#1450 2 years ago

Agree with the comment above. You can use a standard ATX PSU, but you will need to mod it. And I would recommend replacing the CPU fan as well. While you are in there, you may want to check your capacitors around the CPU heatsink as they typically cause issues.

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