(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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#2151 1 year ago

Thank you everybody for your input.

I'll be leaving the "Club" at the end of the month : (

The game will be on location at Phoenix Games in Concord California

BobC

Quoted from ypurchn:

Those extras are nice but I’m not seeing anything that is truly unobtainium- maybe the flaps? So not much value there IMO.
I “think” these PFs were fairly robust as I don’t see many pop up with obvious wear. Maybe 1 in the last year of the pinside adds. So it’s lived a hard life IMO. mid-high 2s? No way I go over 3 with the PF wear and even then it’s a hard sell. If it’s been well maintained and going into a home environment that box of parts is just an expensive insurance policy for some day that may never come. Could maybe flip the plastics and translite? Or just let him keep the parts and buy the game as is?

#2152 1 year ago

I have almost finished a new Nucore install in my RFM, and now that I have the PC running, my image on the CRT is offset slightly to the left (I already fixed a resolution problem, that I will post about separately, along with the other issues I ran into and solved along the way). The pot switches don't fix the issue, and I saw a few posts that say this issue can be fixed by pushing the "sync" button on the Wells Gardner monitor. The problem is that I don't know where this button is physically located. Can anyone please describe, or better yet, take a picture? Is it at the top, or on the back, or elsewhere? I don't like mucking around near high voltage, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

#2153 1 year ago

I join the club too with this last one
It was full stock but i did a little maintenance on it : rubber silicon ring kit, transition to full led...

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#2154 1 year ago
Quoted from demaximis:

I have almost finished a new Nucore install in my RFM, and now that I have the PC running, my image on the CRT is offset slightly to the left (I already fixed a resolution problem, that I will post about separately, along with the other issues I ran into and solved along the way). The pot switches don't fix the issue, and I saw a few posts that say this issue can be fixed by pushing the "sync" button on the Wells Gardner monitor. The problem is that I don't know where this button is physically located. Can anyone please describe, or better yet, take a picture? Is it at the top, or on the back, or elsewhere? I don't like mucking around near high voltage, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

There is no "sync button"... but there is a toggle switch on the chassis for selecting between negative and positive sync. That's probably what they're talking about.

#2155 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

There is no "sync button"... but there is a toggle switch on the chassis for selecting between negative and positive sync. That's probably what they're talking about.

That sounds promising, but now I'm going to ask the stupid question -- can you please tell me - exactly - where it is? I can't find anything that appears to be a toggle switch or a button. I'm sure I'm looking right past it or over it. I have no problem finding the remote pot switches, and I can see the other pots at the "top" of the tube, near the neck. There is a circuit board on the "back" of the tube too, but I did not see a switch, when looking at it from the sides of the rear backbox. I also don't see anything from the front (behind the translite). Again, possibly because I don't know what I am looking for. I appreciate any guidance that you can give as to how to access this switch!

#2156 1 year ago
Quoted from Celofane:

I join the club too with this last one
It was full stock but i did a little maintenance on it : rubber silicon ring kit, transition to full led... [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome, looks to be in fine shape.

#2157 1 year ago
Quoted from demaximis:

That sounds promising, but now I'm going to ask the stupid question -- can you please tell me - exactly - where it is? I can't find anything that appears to be a toggle switch or a button. I'm sure I'm looking right past it or over it. I have no problem finding the remote pot switches, and I can see the other pots at the "top" of the tube, near the neck. There is a circuit board on the "back" of the tube too, but I did not see a switch, when looking at it from the sides of the rear backbox. I also don't see anything from the front (behind the translite). Again, possibly because I don't know what I am looking for. I appreciate any guidance that you can give as to how to access this switch!

I don’t have one here to check, but IIRC, it’s on the chassis (main board) near the input connector.

#2158 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I don’t have one here to check, but IIRC, it’s on the chassis (main board) near the input connector.

Thanks - any tips on how to (safely) access the mainboard?

#2159 1 year ago
Quoted from demaximis:

Thanks - any tips on how to (safely) access the mainboard?

You should be able to reach in there from the back... no need to remove anything. Do it with the game off, of course. If you are worried about high voltage, leave the game off for a day (it will self-discharge).

#2160 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You should be able to reach in there from the back... no need to remove anything. Do it with the game off, of course. If you are worried about high voltage, leave the game off for a day (it will self-discharge).

I would still manually discharge it just in case

#2161 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

I would still manually discharge it just in case

He’s not going to be working on the chassis.... All he has to do is flip a single toggle switch, nowhere near any HV.

#2162 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

I would still manually discharge it just in case

Quoted from mattosborn:

He’s not going to be working on the chassis.... All he has to do is flip a single toggle switch, nowhere near any HV.

Thanks for the concern, and i normally agree - better safe than sorry. But tonight, I took a picture with of my board with my cellphone, and finally saw the button (it is more like a button than a switch on mine). I was able to push it in, and sure enough - picture centered! It's slightly narrow (wish I could expand the horizontal like the vertical), but the shots line up perfectly. Happy to report that my new Nucore system works 100%. Now, I can strip the PF and clean it up. Thanks for the replies!

#2163 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

I would still manually discharge it just in case

"He said discharge...hehehe"

index (resized).jpg

#2164 1 year ago

I *finally* got around to replacing my CPU fan... I'm pretty sure it had the oem cpu fan on it... and had already cleaned and oiled the fan 8 or so years ago. It sorely needed to be replaced. I installed a 60mm Noctura fan on the 50mm cpu socket mainly to keep the noise to an absolute minimum. It also has the added benefit of attaching the cpu fan header on the Pin2k motherboard.

I did a quick write up on my blog:
http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/p2kCpuFan

where I've made the DXF file available under the "free" TAPR/NCL license. I've also put the Fan Adapter on Shapeways for those who don't have access to a laser cutter.

60mm Fan Adapter - Test Fit

#2165 1 year ago

I thought this might be interesting to share--the lifetime audits from a routed RFM:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/audits-from-a-routed-rfm

1 week later
#2166 1 year ago

I just joined the club!

I have a question about the monitor. Everything I've read indicates the monitor will either be a Wells Gardner or a Ducksan. I noticed my monitor is fitted inside a bracket with a Wells Gardner sticker, but on the back of the monitor is a giant label that indicates it's a Samsung model A48KRD82X02. Can anyone explain which monitor I have and what install hassles to expect if I want to do the Ultimarc video amp mod?

#2167 1 year ago
Quoted from rennervision:

I just joined the club!
I have a question about the monitor. Everything I've read indicates the monitor will either be a Wells Gardner or a Ducksan. I noticed my monitor is fitted inside a bracket with a Wells Gardner sticker, but on the back of the monitor is a giant label that indicates it's a Samsung model A48KRD82X02. Can anyone explain which monitor I have and what install hassles to expect if I want to do the Ultimarc video amp mod?

You're looking at the back of the tube. That could have all kinds of labels on it. Both manufacturers bought tubes from various suppliers at various times. You want to be looking at the monitor chassis (the PCB at the back of the bracket), which SHOULD be either a Ducksan or a WG. I say "should" because mine had the Ducksan sticker, but the chassis had been replaced by a Kortek.

Oh, and welcome to the club!

#2168 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I now have constant static pulsing through my rfm speakers. If I disconnect from the pc it stops (obviously).
All pc connections seem to be fine and seated correctly.
Sound comes through fine, just a constant speaker static pulse hum that doesn’t change with volume
Could my sound card have an issue?

Changed to a non-auto switching (manual switching) power supply after debugging with another machine. Issue resolved. Seems the auto switching power supply wasnt liked by the amplifier circuit

#2169 1 year ago

Officially joined the club! Been hoping for one for quite awhile. I've only played like 3 games on it and need to clean it up and get acquainted with it. So far the mods i've seen are leds, the tv brightness booster, led saucer lights, adding extra martians, "attack!" Flipper artword, 3d translight, alien target stickers, led lights in martians eyes, and green edge trim instead of red.

I wount be able to afford all of them, so going for the best bang/wow for the buck.

New rubbers: any that are better than others? Was going to just go with black from marcos or something.

I need to get a saucer because I'm missing mine so i thought about doing the led ones, but 180 bucks seems awfully steep.

3d translite: anyone have it? Thoughts?

Adding extra martians: do they move as well, or are they stationary?

Crt brightness kit: amazing, or should i just save my $ for and lcd for when the CRt quits?

Leds: do they mess with the reflection on the glass?

I have new playfield glass and i want to keep it clean and pristine, just making sure windex is a ok to use on both sides.

Playfield needs some touch up and supposedly there's a cliffy for the drop hole to the right of the center shot. Anyone have experience with it?

I'll be reading up on bullet proofing the pc, but so far the fan and everything works and i haven't noticed any burn in with the monitor. I might just add an extra fan with a separate power supply just as a back up.

#2170 1 year ago

Does anyone know the name of the person making the new replacement computer ?

#2171 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

New rubbers: any that are better than others? Was going to just go with black from marcos or something.

I prefer PBResource, although Marco should be fine. There's also silicon rubbers from Titan.

Quoted from bobwiley:

I need to get a saucer because I'm missing mine

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-9481-1

Quoted from bobwiley:

Adding extra martians: do they move as well, or are they stationary?

There are only two mechanisms for movement, so I imagine any additional ones would be stationary.

Quoted from bobwiley:

Crt brightness kit: amazing, or should i just save my $ for and lcd for when the CRt quits?

The Ultimarc amplifier is well worth it. Also, I would recommend making your own harness (6? wires, connector pins, and a connector), rather than butchering the original, so you can switch back if necessary.

Quoted from bobwiley:

Leds: do they mess with the reflection on the glass?

Nope.

Quoted from bobwiley:

3d translite: anyone have it? Thoughts?

It looks cool, but a little pricey.

Also, for the translite, I would recommend replacing the florescent bulb with a cool white florescent bulb to counteract the yellowing, or go with an LED option.

Quoted from bobwiley:

I have new playfield glass and i want to keep it clean and pristine, just making sure windex is a ok to use on both sides.

I never use windex. It has ammonia in it. I normally use spraway--the added benefit is that it doesn't leave streaks behind.

#2172 1 year ago

An easy backlight replacement is this USB powered LED strip lighting. Mount it to white foam core and plug it into the PC.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-4-ft-warm-white-led-tape-light/5777900.p?skuId=5777900
(Notice it's warm white)

It's too expensive today, but once a month it goes on sale for $10.

#2173 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

New rubbers: any that are better than others? Was going to just go with black from marcos or something.

RFM definitely needs something cooler than black rubbers! I'd suggest red or green. If you go Titan, the Glow-in-the-dark ones look awesome, even when they aren't glowing.

Quoted from bobwiley:

3d translite: anyone have it? Thoughts?

I got it after I managed to snap my old 2D one in half as I was taking it to get signed by Greg Freres. Seriously.

It actually wasn't that much more expensive than a 2D repro. That should be taken to mean that the 2D repro is crazy expensive.

The good news is that it does look REALLY cool, and also showed me just how much my old one had yellowed. Because the brittleness wasn't enough of a clue.

Quoted from bobwiley:

Playfield needs some touch up and supposedly there's a cliffy for the drop hole to the right of the center shot. Anyone have experience with it?

There is, I have it in mine. I am of the opinion that Cliffys are an excellent idea 100% of the time. In the case of RFM, it's barely noticeable, and I've never experienced a single case of gameplay being affected.

Otherwise, Plus one on everything ForceFlow said.

Welcome to the club!

1 week later
#2174 1 year ago

Thanks for the replies everyone! I've found about 7 switches that need to be replaced so far (all are the outlane rollover type switches). So thats on my shopping list. I used painters tape to cover the gap in the center shot to stop some light bleed through when the back GI kicks on. Makes a noticeable difference.

Does anyone know where I can find info on version 1.8 and 1.9 of the unofficial code updates? I read somewhere it has some early animation added to it, but couldn't find any details. If its all just related to the tournament play its not something I'd use, but would be nice to know if there's a version that has all the available gameplay features and animations. If its known how they programmed the game, it would be a fun project to add more animations and callouts. I'd be totally game for adding some stuff!

I've decided I'm not going to convert it all to LEDs, thinking about replacing just some of the insert bulbs. Not sure if that would look wierd when its flashing and running the lights. I noticed on my Hook game, the row I replaced with LEDs pulsates quicker than the traditional filament bulbs.

I'm on the hunt to make some custom aluminum/metal saucers and maybe learn how to do some 3d printing. It looks like the red ramp its mounted on makes flame shapes, so thinking I'd do like a smoke and flame combo under the saucers.

If anyone has cool ideas for 3d landscaped plastics let me know, I think this game has a lot of potential to do some fun 3d mods to really add to the vibe of the game!

#2175 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Does anyone know where I can find info on version 1.8 and 1.9 of the unofficial code updates? I read somewhere it has some early animation added to it, but couldn't find any details. If its all just related to the tournament play its not something I'd use, but would be nice to know if there's a version that has all the available gameplay features and animations. If its known how they programmed the game, it would be a fun project to add more animations and callouts. I'd be totally game for adding some stuff!

cougtv has a PUB card with the 1.9 update, as do I. If you are local to either of us, I'm sure one of us can help out. If you go to any of the northeast shows, both of us have been willing to bring the PUB card if you bring your RFM to a show.

Otherwise, so far, the files have not been made available online.

Quoted from bobwiley:

I've decided I'm not going to convert it all to LEDs, thinking about replacing just some of the insert bulbs. Not sure if that would look wierd when its flashing and running the lights. I noticed on my Hook game, the row I replaced with LEDs pulsates quicker than the traditional filament bulbs.

Doing a mix of incandescent and LEDs doesn't usually look very good. Either pick one or the other. Yes, LEDs going on and off without and ramp up/down or fading is typical on most systems. It's a shame LED OCD boards aren't available for Pin2000. They look great on other platforms

#2176 1 year ago

Add me to the club, I just brought one home Saturday!!

RFM 003 (resized).JPGRFM 004 (resized).JPG
#2177 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Add me to the club, I just brought one home Saturday!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Looks really clean. Welcome!

#2178 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Add me to the club, I just brought one home Saturday!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club.

#2179 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Add me to the club, I just brought one home Saturday!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm jealous, it looks brand new ! Welcome and have fun with this wonderful pin.

#2180 1 year ago

Welcome to the club!

#2181 1 year ago
Quoted from Giulio:

I'm jealous, it looks brand new ! Welcome and have fun with this wonderful pin.

The decals were replaced

#2182 1 year ago

So let's talk about the code updates! Apparently there's a couple of versions out there. From my understanding, version 1.4 is the last update that had game related changes, 1.5 and 1.6 was stability and coin operator relevant changes. There were also some changes made to allow tournement play and high score uploading over the Internet, however, correct me if I'm wrong, it is no longer active. Now I guess there is a version 1.8 and 1.9 that was unofficially released, but I don't know when, where or how or what is on those. Supposedly some version has some extra animations and callouts, but I don't know which version nor how much extra content was added and if it made a perceptable or appreciative difference to players.

I heard the easiest way to upgrade is a PUB card. Rob Anthony has v 1.6 available for use at Lock When Lit. PUB cards just go into one of the computer slots and auto updates the code. Take it out and you are ready to go. I guess PUB cards themselves are expensive and I don't know how to add the code to it.

So, here's my question to the gang. Does anyone know what v1.8 and 1.9 have on them? If there is a reason to upgrade from 1.6 to 1.9, does anyone know where and how to put the code on a PUB card? I thought we could make a traveling card that we could mail to each other (or maybe at least get the code to Rob) so people could get the latest version. Let me know if you are knowledgeable or able to help with this if folks are interested.

If someone happens to have v1.9 and they are willing to Fed Ex it to me, I would be super grateful. I'd install it that day and send it back the next day. I can give you my librarian and old video rental store manager as a reference that I return things on time (and rewound!). =p

#2183 1 year ago

I found the serial cable update to be the easiest. It doesn't really require special hardware... I had a Null serial cable in my cable box.
That said; I understand why PUB cards are considered easier because you don't have to setup a WinXP box.

#2184 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I found the serial cable update to be the easiest. It doesn't really require special hardware... I had a Null serial cable in my cable box.
That said; I understand why PUB cards are considered easier because you don't have to setup a WinXP box.

Do you know if v 1.8 or 1.9 are available to update via null serial cable?

#2185 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Do you know if v 1.8 or 1.9 are available to update via null serial cable?

AFAIK; all Pin2k software can be updated via a null serial cable.
The sticking point most people have is they don't have a WinXP laptop they can carry to the machine. I beleive the tool has issues with Win Vista and later tools. I imagine a WinXP Virtual machine would work as well.

When I tried the ?1.6? update... I had a Dell WinXP laptop with real serial port. I ended going back to the previous update because there was something I didn't like about the new modes. I still have the XP laptop ... and now several VMs because my Laser cutter also requires WinXP 32bit for it's drivers. Ricky's site actually seems to have instructions:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/pin2000/notes/update.html

#2186 1 year ago

I just updated mine the other day with a Windows 7 system and null serial cable. After I installed the software I just set it to run in Windows 2000 compatibility mode.

#2188 1 year ago

Thanks everyone for the info. I gurss i shouls clarify about the updating. I know we can download v1.6 and get it on a pub card or upload it ourselves to the game, but does anyone know where to get v1.8 or 1.9 other than a PUB card? Can we copy ot off a pub card or from a machine that has it installed? Do we know what cganges are all on those updates?

#2189 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Thanks everyone for the info. I gurss i shouls clarify about the updating. I know we can download v1.6 and get it on a pub card or upload it ourselves to the game, but does anyone know where to get v1.8 or 1.9 other than a PUB card? Can we copy ot off a pub card or from a machine that has it installed? Do we know what cganges are all on those updates?

1.6 is the last legit release. Just go with that. AFAIK, nobody is currently running an online tournament server, so I don't see the point in installing those hacks.

#2190 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I found the serial cable update to be the easiest. It doesn't really require special hardware... I had a Null serial cable in my cable box.
That said; I understand why PUB cards are considered easier because you don't have to setup a WinXP box.

the updater can run on 64 bit systems it's just the installer that needs the workaround
https://reactos.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10988
https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?t=42464

#2191 1 year ago

I can provide game version >1.6 but there are some changes you may don't need or want.

In 1.9 you don't need to upgrade the system RAM which you need in 1.8...
Also you will get the tributes to Joe Dillon back.
And as you mentioned the "new callouts and Animations" are implemented...

And of course the online tournament server is still runing

#2192 1 year ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

I can provide game version >1.6 but there are some changes you may don't need or want.
In 1.9 you don't need to upgrade the system RAM which you need in 1.8...
Also you will get the tributes to Joe Dillon back.
And as you mentioned the "new callouts and Animations" are implemented...
And of course the online tournament server is still runing

Great! Has there been any stability issues or performance issues related to 1.9? Out of curiosity, what changes were made between 1.8 and 1.9 that returned the program to needing only its stock RAM?

#2193 1 year ago

The tests for 1.9 aren't big so I don't know any problems or stability issues.

Bigger RAM in 1.8 is needed for high amount of visible/scrolling online player in attractmode.

#2194 1 year ago

What I forgot to say, it isn't possible to add complete new images + animations! The RFM prism space is nearly 99,5% full.

Big changes can't be proceded because of missing rom/flash space.

Because of that the languages french and spain are deleted in 1.9

#2195 1 year ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

What I forgot to say, it isn't possible to add complete new images + animations! The RFM prism space is nearly 99,5% full.
Big changes can't be proceded because of missing rom/flash space.
Because of that the languages french and spain are deleted in 1.9

Ahh, so would Nuocore and pinbox machines be able to have an expanded game with new animations and sounds added on to the existing code?

And just to clarify, 1.8 and 1.9 do have additional animations and callouts that version 1.6 does not contain?

#2196 1 year ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

What I forgot to say, it isn't possible to add complete new images + animations! The RFM prism space is nearly 99,5% full.
Big changes can't be proceded because of missing rom/flash space.
Because of that the languages french and spain are deleted in 1.9

Quoted from bobwiley:

Ahh, so would Nuocore and pinbox machines be able to have an expanded game with new animations and sounds added on to the existing code?
And just to clarify, 1.8 and 1.9 do have additional animations and callouts that version 1.6 does not contain?

The flash overlay space only has limited room.

Maybe with Nuocore and pinbox you may be able to just mod the base rom files

#2197 1 year ago

Nucore should be able to use new burned masked rom files

#2198 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Great! Has there been any stability issues or performance issues related to 1.9?

I brought my game to two different shows (a 4-day show and a 2-day show) and everything went fine. No problems, no stability issues. Never had any software or mechanical issues the whole time.

#2199 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

I brought my game to two different shows (a 4-day show and a 2-day show) and everything went fine. No problems, no stability issues. Never had any software or mechanical issues the whole time.

Nice to hear

How big is your system RAM?

#2200 1 year ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

Nice to hear
How big is your system RAM?

I have 128MB installed, which is probably much more than necessary.

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