It's funny, Halloween I think is the ONE game where when I need to hit a shot (particularly the orbits), I brick - EXCEPT when I need to reset the drops. I don't understand why that would be, but I am pretty good at nailing those orbits *AS LONG AS* it's just to reset the drops. For points? In a mode? Forget it.

I think some of us are just in complaining mode about this game. It took a loooooooooong time to get where we are.. but it's a pretty damn good place to be at this point. Hopefully Spooky feels like it's a win after this marathon. I'll admit I started to lose faith a little bit here and there with the long waits, but I'm super impressed with how they stepped up. Especially having to replace TWO key components of the game (the artist and the developer), at least one of whom had been with Spooky for years. Definitely would not complain about any bug fixes, but there's so much stuff in this game now, it's impressive.

More combo shots would be great. I personally wouldn't mind seeing the drop reset for modes moved to the left ramp as well, and change the orbits to be more meaningful for combos and perhaps other features, like increased end of ball bonus scoring, or some other game benefit. Right now the orbits main use outside of modes is just to reset the drops. It's one of the tougher shots in the game and its just a mode restart mainly? I wouldn't mind seeing it changed as others have noted to the ramp shot and then figuring out something more meaningful for the orbits instead. In some other games I know the orbits are used as means of increasing values of various aspects of the game, end of ball bonuses, advancing a game feature, increasing jackpot values, and so on.

It's not so much complaining, but that the game is kind of complete now, I think it's good to discuss the easier enhancements and polish that could be considered for the game. They have stated they still have plans for the game and polishing up things is a big part of that now, so feedback and smoothing out the code is all that is being suggested.

And we’re all here for it!!!

A lot of really interesting ideas, thanks to everyone who’s taken the time to write them up or comment to discuss. We’ll see what we can do!

Thank you for taking the time to read our comments.

Is the video clip at the end of the movie where Loomis shoots Michael and he falls out the window in the game? If not is should be at the end of the final wizard mode when all your balls drain and its over. Kind of like the end of the game

It's the clip that plays when you beat the Boogeyman wizard mode.

If any of you are interested and use Facebook hop over and follow my page "Spooky Luke". I am going to start sharing a bunch of the behind the scenes photos of the game design and engineering of Halloween, Ultraman, Scooby Doo and I have even been known to drop the occasional future title hint. I'll try to share something cool atleast once or twice a week that nobody has had the chance to see.

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Hmm no pumpkin scoop, and instead no subways at all on the right, instead a return wireframe from the middle PF

…nm

One of my drop targets in the 3-bank set broke. Any instructions on how to replace that? I have a spare one from Spooky but I'm not sure how the mech comes off or apart. Any advice/ tips?

I got the mech off. Is there a recommended tool to remove these? Or do I just finger it?

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It's been requested before but is it possible to add flipper power adjustments? I've got an early build game and the flippers are super powerful at startup, but fade pretty quickly. The last game I played at the end I was struggling to make it up the center ramp. Some of that was because I had to play the sanitarium 5-6 times to finally beat it and get into the boogeyman wizard mode. Kept choking on the last shot.

And that last game I played was pretty long and I don't think I saw any bugs/issues, not even that blood store / mode selection display issue. I think I was one mode away from getting to the new wizard mode.

Maybe at some point we could get high scores for the individual modes or other things (blood collector)?

Needle-nose pliers, a small flat-head screwdriver, or both.

Sweet! Back in business. That was a lot easier than I expected.

Oops. Another issue. I guess after 3000+ games things start to break, or perhaps I broke something when replacing the drop target. In any case I've lost the sanitarium lights and the light strip below, plus two lights on the upper playfield: spinner progress middle top (111) and spinner progress top (112). I thought I found the problem in that I traced wires and found a broken RGB connector board (the clip fell off). I replaced that but still no lights. The connecting wires lead under the middle pf and upper pf. I'm guessing I'll need to remove those to get access to the RGB boards underneath. Looks painful. Any tips (or maybe a video?) for removing the upper and middle pf? Or should I be looking elsewhere to fix the lights? Thanks in advance.

I would check the red board on the underside of the playfield. There are 2 led connections you can make sure they are plugged in.

As you probably know, LEDs are daisy chained so check to see which is the last LED lit. I had the LED under the middle PF that is directly over the right orbit go out. Appeared that strong shots may have allowed the ball to impact the LED pin connection causing the mount to fail. After replacing the broken LED I hot glued a thick, flexible piece of vinyl to protect that LED from further ball impact. Good luck.

Sounds like the same LED I had go out, same location; the clip was very loose and when I touched it, it came completely off the board. I replaced that LED board but the lights didn't come back on. However! Just now when messing with it again. Under the upper pf, I managed to get my finger in there and must have touched the right wire/connector or something because everything just came back on!

What do you guys use to clean the ball tracks on Halloween? It seems so much worse on this game then my others and I had never found a good way to remove them.

If 91% isopropyl doesn't take it off, try some Novus 2 on a clean rag, then alcohol to get rid of residue, then wax.

I try to use Novus sparingly, since it is a very fine abrasive.

RussM

Novus 2.

If Alcohol doesn't work, I usually buff them out using a paste wax and wipe clean immediately.
Don't let it sit and dry like you were waxing the PF. Just buff it and wipe it clean immediately.

Then you can wipe any excess wax off with alcohol (if you don't wax your PFs).

If that doesn't work, you need a mild compound like Novus 2. But, I rarely use Novus 2 as the wax works fine.

Simple Green removes 9/10 ball trails.

If there’s a full line still showing after that, you’ll have to buff it with some 3M/Novus 2

rd

Thanks for all the responses, I will try these tonight.

Even if you remove the trail mark it will come back in no time, well mine does anyway.

What rubbers are you using? Black makes it dirty faster

Had my best game last night. This pin is shooting so smooth and Knock on wood, issue free! Epic pinball machine!!

The ones that came with it, not sure if the trail marks are dirt or a mark in the clear from the ball as it’s not easy to remove so think the latter.
Will have a good look next time I clean it.
I’m sure I read some other some people were finding it hard to remove the ball trail marks.

I've rubbed off the ball trails with my finger, the coating on spooky pins is great.

I used to spray cars etc. They definitely wouldn’t rub off with my finger, I had to get out some pro polishing compound.
Not complaining as the clear is rock hard and smooth, just not seen what I’m seeing before on other pins.

I think it might be more prominent because the clear is so thick.

Any one have an issue with led lighting from 75-147, i have no lights turning on….sigh just one more issue with this pin…Player 1 tech and I worked on it for a few hours again yesterday…have already changed the pintaur board twice this is the second new board…. We think we may need to take off the upper playfields to resolve diagnos. But thought maybe someone had some ideas where to look. Yes we called Spooky they are closed on Fridays…my tab on repairs for this machine are now over $2k invested in repair costs getting to this stage….everyone loves the machine at half speed…will be great when we can get it to 100%. opening a ticket monday. But thought i would try here.

Help much appreciated.

If it's on the exposed led's, most likely the first one that doesn't light was damaged. Spooky will send you a new light strip

As finnflash said, light chain 2 starts at the pinotaur goes straight to light number 70 which is the first one on the upper strip, on the right. Do you have five lights working (70,71,72,73,74) on that strip? If actually none of them are working, I'd check the plug into the pinotaur.

However, if you do have five working, the problem should be right after light 74, either there'll be a break in one of the connecting wires in the strip, or there's something wrong with 75. Replacing the strip is best, but to test, you could solder/clip some jump wires over 75 to check/get all the others working.

It's a strange place to have a fault as that's not an easy place for a ball strike.

Has anyone else been having issues with orbit shots not registering since (I think) v1.13? Might be a coincidence, but I noticed when I went from v1.12 to v.1.14. It has made Death in the Driver's Seat unplayable.

Have you tested the orbit switches by putting the game into switch test; slow and fast moving balls, both directions

I had one fail because the plastic bracket for the switch went squirrely

RM

I have also been experiencing this in v.1.14. The left orbit never registers the Death in the Driver’s Seat shot but it does trigger the knife sound.

I had issues with some shots in 1.12, but so far 1.14 every orbit shot has been working for me. Also the orbit switch you hit off the sanitarium exit is now working in Death in the Driver's seat.

Will check that today, player 1 is back next week, coordinating another call with tech support.

Anyone come up with a better way to secure the knife to the topper motor? I kinda stripped the threaded hex, and of course when trying to screw it back in, so I dont lose it until I had a better option, it dropped and I lost it. Michael needs his knife back.

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A local Ace Hardware store will have those little set screws. But because they are so small and easy to strip, I think I would replace the set screw with a regular phillips-head machine screw of the same size. It will be easier to install and secure the collar to the motor shaft.

Thank you for this. Just tested and looks like the right orbit isn't registering consistently. Especially on faster balls. Will take a look at it now.

Thank you sir!

Replace the screw and add loctite. Over time and use it seems like it will often just undo itself so loctite that sucker in.

On a fast ball the ball can hug the right wall and not make enough contact with the rollover switch, I had similar issue at one point, so had to adjust the wire on the switch to be a bit more sensitive to the slight touch and it's now working great. Using slow mo video I could see the ball would just clip the edge of the rollover switch but apparently not pushing it in enough to register on those fast balls.

Fitted an IPS screen today, the difference is huge. All from Amazon.
Real black blacks at any angle, also removed the clear screen protector as the screen is Matt black.
Still on default screen settings but looks perfect, might mess with them.

Edit: It even makes your keys stand out more

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It will look even better without a key in the way

Keyless
Looks much blacker than the original, no screen protector fitted. Looks much better, no reflections.

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Are the parts listed out somewhere?

Just for “pinside”, I put all the headbox keys in all my 100+ pins.

Then I invited 90 people around for three days to play them all non stop. 8am to 11pm, three days in a row. Literally thousands of games played.

And guess what!

Nobody gave a toss about the keys.

rd

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ultraman-kaiju-rumble-owners/page/56#post-7052234

Screen I used for reference as the one in the link is unavailable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08GSN3JFP?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_1SCT7M175MVWXG6ZFPE9&language=en-GB