Linwood, NJ
Has anyone successfully added lit flipper buttons to Halloween (or Ultraman)?
Thanks,
RussMyers
(Topic ID: 300250)
Linked Games
Halloween (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021-
Halloween (Collectors Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
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Halloween (Standard Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2021
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Quoted from lpeters82:Start at about 5 minutes. While I highly suggest a second person, if you decide to do it alone, I'd highly suggest placing something between your your playfield and powder coating.
No offense, but that is a terrible design aspect.
I am by myself, and that is a high-risk maneuver IMO.
It should be possible to access that flipper mech without dangerous playfield gymnastics.
RM
Quoted from Mkvgti:Had this happen twice now (60 plays in)
Right flipper becomes unresponsive after this (pictured) push-pin works itself out, disconnecting the action (I'm not sure on the terms, new to the hobby). It seems reasonably tight when I push it back in with pliers.
Thoughts on making the fix more permanent - new push-pin, loctite, etc?
[quoted image]
It's called a roll-pin, because it's made by tightly rolling up sheet metal, so it can compress slightly when it's hammered in and the tension holds it in.
If there's not enough tension so it falls out, just ask Spooky for a replacement crank assembly, easy to change out.
RM
If anyone cares, here is my solution for (mostly) safely propping the playfield up on UM/HWN to access the upper flipper, et al.
Pinball Universe Blade Protectors
Double-layer of pieces of spit closed cell pipe insulation
IMG_0344 (resized).JPGIMG_0345 (resized).JPGIMG_0346 (resized).JPGIMG_0347 (resized).JPGQuoted from Morgoth00:I've been "driving" cars and etc since I was 4. Bigwheels, bicycles, little motorized vehicles. He may be lacking the rules of the road knowledge, but I think knowing how to start and step on the gas would have easily been gleaned from the Dad or watching Mom, as well as movies/tv. I know all my boys knew of such things as of 5 or 6yrs old.
Automatic transmission. Would have been more impressive if it had been a stick.
Can you imagine him constantly stalling out while trying to get away?
That's why he was so stabby.
RM
Quoted from Geeterman1:Anybody have an issue where the upper playfield drop target goes down after one hit but doesn’t pop back up? Normally when I hit the drop target Laurie takes damage and and then it pops right back up. Now I hit it once, it drops, it stays red and Laurie doesn’t take damage. Any thoughts?
It does go back up on a new ball.
Throw the game into Switch Test and pop that target up and down - does it register in both positions as active/inactive?
RM
Quoted from Geeterman1:How do I pop the target up while in switch test mode? I popped it up in the coil settings and then manually popped it down with my finger while in switch test and nothing registered. I did the same with the center drop targets and they all registered so the switch isn’t registering when the drop target is going down?
Any idea what type of switch this is and how to fix?
OK, you'll have to take the balls out and raise the playfield up so you can access the underside of that area.
You can see the bottom of that drop target when the playfield is in the full upright position and leaning against the backbox.
That target has a plastic flange that passes between a U-shaped opto switch in (I think) the down position.
I had the problem in my UM where it would not register when the flange was supposed to be breaking the infrared opto beam because the translucent plastic was allowing the beam to pass through instead of blocking it. I had to paint the flange black. That may be your issue, or something else may be not working with that opto switch.
RussM
Quoted from Geeterman1:Thanks for the tips. The strange thing is that it has worked up until this point. Was yours working previously and then stopped?
Mine never worked AFAICT.
You can also check the function of the U opto by passing a black piece of paper through it.
RM
Quoted from rotordave:Opto testing - no paper required.
Just break the beam with your finger. Or anything.
The ball isn’t black paper and that generally works ok.
rd
Buddy, we're not talking about a pair of optos registering across a ball lane.
If you can fit your finger in the tiny slot of the U opto in the spooky drop target switch PCB, you are about 3 inches tall.
RM
Quoted from Completist:Ah man… I spent an hour in Michael’s - do you know how many different types of black paper there is???
Should have used 40# Alpha-cellulose grain-long bond in Dark Midnight.
RM
2 weeks later
Quoted from Oneangrymo:Ugh now my first Michael doesn’t move but it does in test mode
Nevermind stopped working test mode , dead servo ? Already ??
[quoted image]
First thing I'd do is check the wiring and connectors for that mech.
Quoted from GreenMachine19:Search this thread for my posts. I had this same issue. I removed that screw and not that you did not in this picture. Added some spacers to that cover over the tough.
I really, really wish there was a Ball Trough Test mode just like Stern games have had for 20 years.
It makes it so much easier to diagnose ball trough switch issues.
RussMyers
Quoted from spooky_dj:Turn on your game, the open up the coin door; you should see a USB extension cable on the left of the cabinet. Plug the USB in, and wait for the update to complete. You can also plug the USB directly into the computer in the head of the game.
OK I turned the game on, waited until it finished booting completely, then plugged the USB drive into the USB cable inside the coin door.
Nothing happens at all.
Is there a button to push or should it recognize the drive and file all by itself and just start updating automatically?
Tried the same thing by plugging it into the one open USB port on the top of the board in the head - same thing, nothing happens.
RM
Quoted from spooky_dj:Yep, it should automatically start the update if the USB drive has been formatted/written to correctly.
Update Requirements:
-Use a USB drive with 4GB to 32GB of storage. Do not exceed these bounds.
-Do NOT use a Mac system to format your USB drive. Use Windows 7/10, and format as FAT32 / 32kb.
-Do NOT pull the USB immediately after files copy. Right click on the USB drive from the ‘Computer’ window, and select ‘eject’. Windows will tell you if it’s ok to remove the USB.
-Make sure the filename is not changed when you download it. The name should be exactly code_UM.pkg
If it's code_UM(1).pkg or code_UM(copy).pkg, it will not work.
-Skipping any of these actions can and will cause the game to run in an unexpected manner, or not at all.
Yeah, my 1st drive, an older Sandisk 8gb, meets all of those criteria; I was very careful.
I just tried with a newer Sandisk Cruzer 32GB drive, and it started working immediately.
It was the drive. Updating now.
RussM
Quoted from GreenMachine19:Has anyone successfully installed the brite buttons britemods flipper buttons yet? My stock right flipper button sticks and I need to replace it anyway, but would like to go to lit like my other games. I immediately changed out all my CGC games buttons because the stock ones are terrible. It’s annoying because I get a good game going and my right flipper sticks up because button is stuck in. I pulled it from the game it’s just the plastic button assembly. I can’t get it apart because of the barb. Once it’s pressed together, it’s together.
The Brite buttons will work in HWN/UM but you will have to crimp on your own power connectors to the board in the back right of the cabinet bottom, or you can install the Comet Illuminated Flipper Button Kit, like I did in my Ultraman. If you go the Comet kit route, order some extra matrix cable extensions maybe since the standard cables it ships with are just a little short for our games.
RM
Quoted from K9Marshal:Ok I’m sure this has been discussed already. Just set up Halloween Ce 1173 and when I press start and ball enters the shooter lane the game also automatically awards me hedge lock 1 and the top Michael kicks out and back. Is this a known issue and if so, how do I fix ???
Thanks !
Actually I am having the exact same problem on my UM.
Does the shaker shake at that exact moment as well?
RM
Quoted from K9Marshal:Ok I’m sure this has been discussed already. Just set up Halloween Ce 1173 and when I press start and ball enters the shooter lane the game also automatically awards me hedge lock 1 and the top Michael kicks out and back. Is this a known issue and if so, how do I fix ???
Thanks !
Actually I am having the exact same problem on my UM.
Does the shaker shake at that exact moment as well?
RM
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Sounds like the shipping prep is lacking. Tilt bobs should be wrapped and in a secured coin box. I've read multiple posts about loose coin boxes boucing around causing problems. That's just rediculous.
My tilt bob was in a plastic baggie stapled to the bottom of the cab.
RM
I am sometimes getting periods of gameplay where the ball isn't recognized sitting on the ball lifter (on the right side, could happen either side I guess) and gameplay stops until the ball search gets it going again.
The switch above the lifter (Right Lifter) tests fine every time.
I am guessing - could the lifter height be just a smidge too low and so when the ball is sitting on the lifter sometimes it doesnt block that opto entirely.
This is on my Ultraman but could happen in Halloween too.
Anyone else see this?
I might try adjusting the lifter height up just a bit.
RM
Quoted from Jakers:This was happening when I got my Halloween. It ended up being a mis-aligned lifter opto. It was only held on by one screw instead of 2. I added the missing second screw and it's been fine ever since.
I checked the optos there and the alignment and clearance seem OK, it's that the ball seems low when sitting on the top of the lifter.
RM
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:The next question is about the CE sticker I see on some games. Is someone making them or is there another way you get them? I thought it was just missing it but I saw a pic of the games from the Allentown show and those that Spooky brought didn't have them either.
I'm sure there will be more questions to follow. Thanks in advance.
Do you mean these?
RM
Quoted from K9Marshal:So I’ve narrowed this down to when the game starts up and the target bank resets - that’s when it’s giving me the locked ball at the top Michael. If I start game with the targets up it’s fine.
Also, while testing with glass off the game isn’t registering that top hedge lock at all. Definitely something strange going on
If you get the playfield up into any of the service positions, put it into Switch Test, and block the optos under each of the Hedge Scoops, do they all work?
Do they all look aligned up nicely?
RM
Quoted from jkashani:Getting this when I try and unzip files:
“code_H78.pkg” cannot be opened because it is from an unidentified developer.
Suggestions
Don't try to unzip it, just leave it as it is.
USB drive 4-32gb in size, formatted FAT32
Turn the game on and when it's finished booting just insert the USB drive into the cable just inside the coin door on the left, and it should immediately start the update
When it says it's done, turn the game off, take the USB drive back out and turn the game back on and you should be on 1.08
RM
Quoted from jkashani:The Law has spoken! Thank You
I did also have to try 2 different USB drives to get one to work, and also yes you can't use Mac at all, they put metadata you can't see on the drives that messes up the update; has to be Windows.
RM
Quoted from Blakester:Could someone recommend a USB drive which seems to work well with Halloween?
I used this one and it worked for me.
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Blade-Drive-SDCZ50-032G-B35/dp/B005FYNT3G/
RM
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:-Drop in an extra ball and see what happens
-check trough optos including a “ball jam” opto if there is one
-check switch test to see if Myers target is locked on
Doesnt this game take 8 balls? They said there are enough balls that they could stage in the future. One ball you can lock in Judith Myers, the possibility of a six ball multi and an extra for future staging….thats 8. Could be wrong and I’m definitely not standing in front of the game.
It's 7 balls; sticker is right on the lockbar
I would definitely pull all 7 balls out to make sure one is not actually stuck somewhere and go from there.
RM
Quoted from John_C:As mentioned previously, this is not a stuck ball issue; it's definitely code related. With all seven balls in the trough and all trough switches checking good, the machine would simply not start a game; It would do a ball search instead.
Last night, while doing more research on the web, I left the machine powered on. After an hour or so of not really finding anything, I went over to shut my machines off for the night and I thought I would give Halloween one more try. Surprisingly, pressing the Start button caused a game to begin.
Now, I have to ask WTF. How did the machine magically find the missing ball and allow a game to start?
Sorry, didn't see this post.
I'd say janky switch somewhere, test the trough switches first, mostly microswitches but there are a couple of optos I think?
RM
I have an UM, not WHN, but...
With the new code 1.08 I have occasionally had:
The Start button stop responding, like in the Spacium Store or to select Kaiju, then start working again; sometimes I have to reboot the game
The Upper flipper goes dead, even when there is still a ball up there. Not often, but it does happen occasionally.
Sometimes, when I start a game and the ball enters the shooter lane the game also automatically awards me Baltan Lock 1 and the top Baltan kicks out and back, killing the Skill Shot before I even plunge the ball
RussM
Quoted from lpeters82:Those experiencing the issue with the upper flipper suddenly stopping, are you sure you aren't just running out of Laurie's health? When her health runs out, either from timing out (-1% per second) or hitting the red drop target (-10% per hit) the flippers will stop working and the mode fails. I have not come across another issue, but I'll keep an eye out as I'm testing.
That is entirely possible; I'll have to keep a closer eye on that.
The flipper stopped and there was still one or two balls up there AND one of them got trapped under the flipper and had to wait until a ball search freed it.
RM
Quoted from PanzerKraken:ah ok that might be whats confusing me as I was concerned why sometimes it seemed like I was auto locking balls
Hitting the Judith Lane (Science Patrol lane in UM) during the Skill Shot active phase is the "Secret Skill Shot"
It immediately locks the ball (danesi lock) and kicks another into play.
It essentially acts like a hardware ball save with no timeout; if you drain while a ball is in there, it gives that locked ball back to you, but you have to be careful not to hit the drop target and release the ball during gameplay or you lose the ball save function, but you get kind of a 2-ball mini multiball
RM
Quoted from PanzerKraken:It sometimes feels like Sanitarium mode and the house fight stuff can drag out forever and never end. The whole modes unlocked over other modes is kinda sloppy, wish it had another way to combine them or at least end a previous mode, or some form of unlock that cancels a lesser mode? Dunno but it's hard to keep track of multiple things going on and again it's really annoying the music of sanitarium mode which feels like once it's on, never goes away.
The Laurie vs Myers stuff also has been said several times but feels like Laurie never "dies" cause it's too easy to heal her so that also sometimes just never ends.
I think everyone agrees on this on both HWN and UM, and we are all hoping Spooky puts a feature in the next code update where the rate of health loss is changeable. Easy (slow) - Medium (medium) -Hard (fast) - Extra Hard (cannot add health bars back)
RM
Luke, this question is mostly for you, but is there a way to manually tweak the position of the diverter servo?
I am having problems where in position 1, it's too far to the left and the ball is striking the bottom right corner of the diverter as it goes into the upper playfield flipper area, and in position 2 it's too far to the right and the ball coming up the ramp will hit the top right corner of the diverter and reject.
What do I do to fix this?
RM
Untitled 1 (resized).jpgQuoted from manadams:What shots reset the drop targets after completing a mode so you can qualify another one?
The left or right orbits.
They are lit white to indicate you should shoot them.
Takes progressively more orbits to reset the drops each time.
RM
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Bah it had gone away for a while but now getting it a bunch again where when a new ball starts and the drop targets pop back up on reset, I randomly am getting free successful skill shots and earning lot of free points. At first it was happening alot and thought it had to do with pressing start early when the match screen was up since it seemed to often cause it and then I was letting the machine sit and get to game over, and had a good amount of time where this stopped happening. Updated last night and almost every other game would have it happen once or twice.
It's something with the drop target when its coming up cause it only happens if the target has to pop up during reset and it will sometimes give a free skillshot hit right as it pops up.
I was able to stop this happening on my Ultraman by replacing 2 of the 3 receiver optos (black PCB) on the subway under the Baltans 1 and 3 (Michaels on HWN). If I flicked the optos with my finger they would register in switch test on/off with nothing blocking the beam.
You can try that. If you don't have spare Spooky receiver optos you can substitute Bally/Williams optos (blue PCB) but you have to reverse the white and green wires.
RussM
Quoted from Randyc:Bottom left flipper sticking in up position, not dragging or wedging.
Anyone have suggestions?
1. Does the flipper drop back down when you shut the game off?
If yes, it's electrical
If no, it's mechanical (something physically binding it up)
2. Mechanical - too tight against the bushing and it's binding up, or look underneath and is the mech hitting something or is the return arm and spring binding on the EOS switch or something?
3. Electrical: drive transistor shorted (would always be up); something binding up the switches under the flipper button or otherwise keeping the flipper button switch closed;
RM
Quoted from Randyc:The flipper drops when electrical is off, also noticed when button is hit nothing happens sometimes. Not binding anywhere. I will email spooky again and ask for new flipper button at this point.
Thanks for your help. Randy
OK, take a close look at how the flipper button is interacting with the leaf switches on that side.
You may have to raise the playfield into one of the service positions so that you can see clearly what is going on.
Pay attention to the switch gaps especially.
When the button is at rest there should be a visible gap between both switch contacts, then as you press the button in a bit, the first contact closes (lower flipper) but the second contact still has a gap, then at full press both contacts closed (upper and lower flippers both up)
This can also be tested if you have the game in Switch Test and Stuck Switches modes
The gap(s) may just be too tight without enough room to open and close when they should, or yes the button may be wonky.
RM
Quoted from GreenMachine19:Here is what my button was doing mid game.
[quoted image]
That would do it. LOL
I keep a box of flipper buttons in just about every color because sometimes they fail.
RM
Quoted from mzhulk:My start button quit working, had to reboot game and it worked again. Is this a bug?
This has happened to me a few times on my Ultraman.
Did it happen during or after you had gone into the Settings Menu and back out?
That seems to be a factor.
RussMyers
Quoted from mzhulk:It happened when I went into settings and back out.
Yeah, me too.
I'll talk to AJ.
RM
Quoted from gregcube:I'm getting a lot of center ramp ball rejects. Noticed that the diverter is missing a screw and the one screw remaining is very loose. Is there some trick to removing/ lifting off the plastic that covers the diverter? I've removed the 3 nuts but the plastic won't lift off -- I've tried to the point of nearly breaking the plastic but it won't budge, just bends. It's tight. Any tips?
[quoted image]
Put your thumb on top of the threaded metal post, reaching under the edge or corner of the plastic with one or two fingertips.
Push down with your thumb and pull up with your fingertips.
Do it for each of the posts.
That should get it off.
There is a lot of friction to overcome, and pulling straight up on the whole plastic bends it and makes it worse, have to loosen it at each post instead.
RM
Quoted from coasterguy:I agree. I try not to be negative but, Halloween’s topper is way too fragile. Mine fell apart again and now I have to take it down and glue all the plastic pumpkin slices together and hope for the best. I’d love for someone to make a sturdy version.
The knife motor is also a bit loud but not horrible.
The Ultraman topper is kind of lame as well; it just lights up and the "Specium Buzzsaw" spins. That's it.
Maybe I'll try to come up with a better one.
RM
Quoted from K9Marshal:Anyone have any issues since updating to the newest code. My game was playing perfect before but now when i open the house the drop target goes crazy and puts me right back out of that mode and the diverter won’t put the ball in the house.
Help!! Lol
Basically the drop target goes crazy and Laurie’s health depletes immediately and mode is over
Throw the game into Switch Test and Stuck Switch Test and check the function of that drop target.
I'm betting something is wrong with it.
RM
1 week later
Quoted from pseudonimh:Just got this machine and love it. One issue I've encountered is that I often hit the side of the pumpkin scoop and the ball flies off and ends up landing by the knife in the plunger lane. Anyone else have this problem? Also I noticed some circuits exposed by the Judith Myer lane (see pic) is everyone else's look like that or am I missing something there?
[quoted image]
That's a pair of optos (optical switches) so the game can tell if a ball is held behind the raised drop target.
RM
HWN Opto (resized).jpgQuoted from TheClownpuncher:Can anyone assist with an issue I'm having? I'll call Spooky Monday but I was hoping someone here might have an idea.
The upper playfield drop target isn't registering. It doesn't register in switch test or in stuck switch test. When playing it continuously pops it.
I looked underneath and can't tell if it is magnetic or an opto? It looks like the middle playfield is a regular leaf switch but the upper one looks like the same kind of sensor mechanism as the middle drops.
Just don't know if it's an opto that can possibly be cleaned or if it's an issue with something else. Thanks in advance.
The very top and very bottom drop targets are optos; the one on the middle playfield is a microswitch.
The plastic drop targets Spooky uses are transparent to let the RGB light them up any color, but they are also transparent to the infrared beam of the optos.
Spooky uses a black cover over the interrupter blade part of the drop target to block the beam. These can fall off. Look in the bottom of the cabinet for the little black cover, it may be there. Possible to glue it back on with a touch of glue or to cover the blade with black paint (what I ended up doing.)
With the game in switch test, you can pass a thin strip of opaque paper through the U-shaped opto to make sure it it working, but I bet this is your issue.
RussMyers
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:Thanks for the help Russ. I checked the opto, it's not working. Black tab is still there on the target and the opto doesn't register on a switch test using a piece of paper to break the beam. (it did work on the center drops). Guess I'll get ahold of Spooky Monday.
Had the black cover fall off of one, and had the small black opto board go bad on the other. AJ sent me a new one pretty quick.
RM
1 week later
I fully concur, I had the exact same experience with annoying debris between the display and the plexi panel on my Ultraman, and the same hair-pulling experience disassembling/reassembling it. The design is terrible, very hard to service, and the plexi scratches if you look at it crossways.
Spooky can and should do better.
RussM
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Sorry, guys. But I dove back in on my new Halloween tonight and am getting a bit upset. I wanted to put my first plays on it after fixing the shooter rod. Last step was to wipe down the dirty pf glass and plexi glass. It turned out the debris on the plexi was underneath, in between it and the display. No biggie. I open the cam lock on the speaker panel and as I lower the panel the backglass starts to fall out. Turns out my backglass rests on top of the speaker panel, and not in it's wooden channel. When you lower the speaker panel the glass falls out. And I can't put the speaker panel back up without lifting up the glass. So, poor assembly there and I'll have to be very careful.
Moving on. Speaker panel is now in the down position. I remove the 4 lock nuts on the display housing and the lock nut posts all start falling out the underside of the speaker panel onto the playfield. Turns out they're not posts and they're not attached to the speaker panel in any way. They are just screws with nothing to hold them in once you remove the lock nuts. Same goes for the speaker panel mounts. Anyway, I remove all the lock nuts on the display housing and it won't budge. Turns out you can't lift out the display without removing the cam lock, which obstructs it, and also the speaker light housings, which obstruct it. So, cam lock, speakers and speaker lights all must come out. I remove the cam lock without issue. I remove the nuts and washers on the speakers and as I begin to lift up the speakers the LED strips underneath begin pulling out of their housings. The speaker wires are zip tied to the speaker light wires with no slack, so lifting a speaker can yank out the LED strip underneath. So, be careful on that. Anyway, I finally get the speakers and speaker lights and display out and clean the debris underneath. Reassembly is a bit of a PITA due to the unsecured mounting screws which must be held in place from underneath while the lock nuts are screwed down on top, and also because of the shitty plastic mesh speaker grills which are uncut where the display mounting screws come through and must be pushed out of the way.
After all that bullshit and carefully reinstalling my backglass I am greeted by swirl marks (scratches) all over the plexi I just cleaned. I used a soft, white cotton hand towel with glass cleaner, which is my go-to for this sort of thing. Turns out there were fine metal shavings on the playfield glass I had just wiped with the same rag prior to wiping the plexi. Joy.
I enjoy playing Spooky pins, but I am highly reluctant to buy another until they put all the bush league, Mickey Mouse, cheap, stupid-ass bullshit problems their pins seem to have behind them. I recommend they hire a couple industry vets who know what not to do when it comes to design, reliability and serviceability.
Pissed in Idaho,
NorCal
Quoted from manadams:Maybe it would be easier to use some compressed air to blow any debris out, just a suggestion if it happens to anyone else.
You still have to disassemble a lot to get to it, have to loosen and remove stuff to get the air nozzle in there, still a PITA.
RM
Quoted from arcyallen:This is a great question. I've played three different machines and they all played differently. How is it "supposed" to be? It always feels a bit frantic and unrefined, which might be by design on account of the whole "running from the murdery guy" thing.
The "butt pretzel" shot (gods, I HATE that name) is extremely sensitive to pitch and level of the playfield, and especially the precise flipper angle setup. I had to fiddle with it a lot to get it right.
When it's set up properly, you shoot the right hand spinner, while keeping the flipper up after the shot.
On a "perfect" shot, the ball goes around to the right, rolls up the flipper, hits the left hand spinner, and returns to the (now lowered) flipper, and once it settles, make the shot again. My best was 3 "figure 8" rounds in a row.
RM
Quoted from lpeters82:Ahh...the "butt pretzel". It's just nicknamed that due to the path the ball travels. Some people said it looks like a butt. Others said it looks like a pretzel. I'm on team pretzel. In the factory, we tend to set them so that a solid shot around the right spinner will travel to the left spinner when you leave the flipper held up. That said, it is dependent on your slope. The shot is important when battling Michael during the pre-multiball phase of House. Every spin to the right spinner deals 1% damage. Every spin to the left spinner deals 5% damage. On games where that shot is dialed in you can completely lower Michaels health in just a few shots. It will also be important on an upcoming expert mode for Ultraman.
I like "Figure 8" or "Infinity" shot.
3 clean Pretzel shots knock Jirahs/Michael to zero for me, if I can pull it off.
RM
Quoted from JesseJames23:Next code update needs awards for consecutive Butt Pretzels….
THIS.
That should be an award; Bonus Score for 3 in a row, Super Bonus for each consecutive Full Pretzel.
RM
Has anyone else had this issue, and if yes, any solution to protect it in the future?
This is on my Ultraman, but same for Halloween.
Twice now, I have had a ball hit the exposed RGB LED strip right at the left edge of the middle playfield.
One or more LEDs go dead, and the downstream part of the strip stays a single color.
I cannot have this keep happening, so has anyone else come up with a ball shield for that area?
Same LED strip damaged again, exact same place.
The ball smashes into this corner and it's broken again.
RussMyers
IMG_0458 (resized).jpgIMG_0459 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpgQuoted from mpdpvdpin:To each their own but I can’t stand to see two of the same logo stacked on top of each other. My years of graphic design will not allow it. Spooky made a classy choice by omitting the text on glass.
My 18yo went to an art-focused charter school and has a good sense for graphic design.
Their first job was at a local movie theater that uses 4 DIFFERENT FONTS in 3 colors for their main sign.
I think they almost had a stroke.
RM
Quoted from Lpilot1:Yep, that’d be me. The last strip I installed I cut and placed a strip of clear vinyl over the strip and then installed the zip ties. I’m hoping that’ll absorb the impact of the ball striking the strip enough to where it won’t damage the lights. Good luck! Very annoying to say the least.
Do you have a pic of that?
RM
1 week later
Quoted from GreenMachine19:I have a new issue. No audio. Not just the sub. Like the game is on mute. Tried rebooting multiple times. Reseat cables. I assume the audio output comes directly from the micro computer? No separate sound board? I’ve sent an email to Spooky. I’m starting to feel bad I feel like I have to email them a lot.
You've checked the audio cable to and from the amp in the bottom of the cabinet and tried adjusting the volume knobs on the side of the amp?
RM
Quoted from Geeterman1:Yeah, but how do I actually loosen the post? I removed the lock nut on the top hoping that would do something but the post was still firmly in place.
You have to take the slingshot plastic assembly completely off.
The top lock nuts just hold the slingshot plastic (and wireform ramp end for the one on the left)
You can loosen the post once the plastics are out of the way.
RM
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Great. Hasn’t happened yet, but I can absolutely see this being an issue - when I get a good shot the ball rockets up the ramp, and explodes against the diverter, then like I said, SDTM.
I’ll have to work on backhanding the left ramp - I’ve not been able to do it with a ball in motion, but it’s still an easier shot than backhanding the Houdini inner right loop, which I got damn good at.
I have had numerous what I thought were clean shots up the middle ramp get rejected and sent rocketing back SDTFM.
Are we all sure it's hitting the diverter and then rebounding? Because it has to get past the spring steel tongue that is supposed to prevent exactly this type of rebound.
I have had a close look at this area on my UM, and I suspect that sometimes the spring steel tongue is hitting something and not letting the ball get past and rebounding it.
I have shaved back one side of the cutout in the plastic, which is clearly off-center.
After (resized).jpgBefore (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from EnjoiThePureTrip:Hey, I’ve got a left flipper that’s sticking and I’m not sure why. As far as I can tell it’s not electrical. I’m a new pinball owner and all the videos I can find on flippers don’t look like the Halloween flipper mechanism, so any help would be appreciated. If need be I can post pictures or answer questions.
Thanks!
I had one of my flipper button stick too, just a little imperfection in the plastic castings.
With the game off, rapidly work the flipper button like 50 or 100 times, should free it up.
RM
OK, for anyone who has had the issue where a ball hit has damaged the RBG LED strip on the edge of the middle playfield, here is my attempt at a ball shield.
I just made it so testing begins today.
.093 Lexan
8" x 1/2"
Heat bent
Preheated my toaster oven to 325F, laid the lexan strip on a sheet of aluminum foil on a tray, and waited 2-3 minutes until it started to sag.
The first time I tried, waited too long and the lexan bubbled on me (ruined)
I had on leather gloves and bent the soft hot lexan over the corner of my wooden cutting board; not a perfect match to the curve, but close enough.
I was worried my heat gun would heat it too much too fast.
Since I was replacing the broken led strip anyway, I used the zip ties to hold the shield in place.
RM
IMG_0482 (resized).jpgIMG_0484 (resized).jpgIMG_0486 (resized).jpgIMG_0487 (resized).jpgIMG_0488 (resized).jpgQuoted from TimeWarp1:Is that foam at the hole backplate factory or aftermarket?
Aftermarket. It's "drop dead foam", supposed to absorb kinetic energy.
It help reduce ball rejects, but only a little.
I want to try a different shaped scoop altogether, but that's another day.
RM
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Nice - I bend this stuff all the time. A heat gun is the way to go.
OK, next time Ill try a heat gun.
They scare me around plastics.
RM
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:One of many assembly issues on my Halloween. This is where the center ramp drops the ball at the upper playfield. Check out the gap between the ramp post and the ball guide. It's almost half an inch. Ball trap 50% of the time. Only way to free ball is to pull glass and lift up the playfield. This issue alone makes my Halloween unplayable. I can't believe theyshipped it out like this. [quoted image]
There is a fix for that:
RM
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:Thank you for sharing that. Mine appears to be a gap issue and not a height transition issue. But I will try that and see.
It's worth watching all of Spooky Luke's vids.
RM
OK, stupid weird question:
Has anyone else ever seen the ball go from being knocked around on the upper playfield and suddenly directly end up back on the lower playfield?
I have had this happen like twice and it's so fast and unexpected I can't tell how it gets there.
Can't tell if it came down the middle ramp or the right hand (hidden ramp); it's like it hit an unseen magic hole in the upper playfield.
And I nuts or has anyone else had this happen?
Russ Myers
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:Happens once in awhile. The ball is simply retracing it’s steps how it got to the upper playfield in the first place. It is going down the main ramp. It is hard to do on purpose because of the position of the flipper.
So it's getting past the spring steel flap.
I wonder if a one-way wire gate would work better there.
Not much room to mount that though.
RM
Quoted from manadams:The main menu screen should have it at the top, latest code is 1.08.
1.08a
1 week later
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:Ok, spring came out of the center drop target mech and it looks like a NIGHTMARE to put back. Anyone have advise?
Hemostat?
RM
Quoted from Svente69:Hi,
Second day in use.
Now i want to start and the PC don`t start.
All Cable are fixed.
Anybody an idea?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Contact Spooky support immediately.
A few owners have had this happen and it usually requires a replacement PC board in the backbox.
My understanding is that Spooky got a bad batch of PC boards.
RussM
Quoted from smoke20:Thanks to all with the comment on the amp; everything mentioned is TRUE!....a little amp goes a long long way.
I finally fired everything up and wow this is some game. Really nice!
I have a flipper question. Right flippers; do they only operate when the ball is on the level for which the flipper is located? In other words, do I need to be in sanitarium or house mode for those uppers to operate? That is what it seems like. Just checking to see if everything is operational.
The flipper on the upper playfield is active only when a ball is up there.
The one on the middle playfield and the lower 2 are always active.
That's normal.
RM
Quoted from Oneangrymo:How did you fix it ? Mine is still doing random missed skill shots and Im pretty sure it has to do with these three drop targets. I adjusted the coils, but still does it
I had exactly this issue happening with my Ultraman and I fixed it but replacing 2 of the three opto emitters under the Baltan/Michael scoops.
RM
Quoted from timtim:High score entry needs scrolling for choosing the letters, by holding the flipper. Just a little thing
Spooky has been pretty closed-mouthed about it, but wouldn't you assume it's Oct 31st?
It's Halloween-centric but I'm sure there will be stuff for us Ultraman owners.
I'd rather tight well-tested code than early release, but I'm an old software QA guy.
RM
Quoted from Ceemunkey:My CE #379 finally arrived today - what a beautiful machine!
Quick question - I have raised this with Spooky but just seeing if anyone here has any ideas...
After all my initial checks, I've found my Judith Myers stand up target is not registering hits. The opto seems ok, and I have checked underneath and everything looks good, the wires are connected and the switch itself is making contact. All other stand ups seem to be working ok, just not this one. Does it maybe have its own connection somewhere on the main board under the playfield?
The drop target Spooky uses is (mostly) transparent plastic.
The material by itself does not block the opto beam, so Spooky puts a black covering over the opto interrupter blade that is part of the target.
If this black cover falls off the target doesnt block the opto beam and it won't register up/down
put the game in Switch Test mode and Flip the playfield up
You can use a piece of paper or something to block/unblock the U-shaped opto to see if it is working
Look at the piece of the target that slips between the opening of the opto and see if that black cover is there
If that's the issue and you can find that cover, glue it back on. Otherwise you can use black paint to paint the interrupter blade
RussM
Quoted from Ceemunkey:Thanks for that - but the drop down target itself is fine, it's the stand up target right at the back, it just doesn't register a hit.
Sorry about that; didn't see it was the standing target.
Wires on target lugs the obvious but you checked those; definitely find the other end and check the connector to the board; could be loose, or the crimps could be janky. Have seen that a few times on my Ultraman.
RM
Quoted from Roostking:I'm starting to wonder if we are actually going to get this code drop!!
I kind of assumed the target date was Oct 31st, just like the UM-focused update was on Ultraman Day.
RM
Quoted from BlueRiverLore:Kinda irks me that we hear of the delay second-hand through a Pinside member and not from someone from Spooky posting on here.
The post is from their FB page.
RM
Quoted from Lostcause:I had to do that too and it sounded better as driven less but the cone cannot move freely as it is hard against the grill and maybe even the cab.
Pretty sure when I fit a spacer there will be a big difference as the cone can move and do it’s thing.
Will be fitting an anti speaker thump too as the thump at turn on isn’t nice.
Saying all that I’m loving the game and playing great, backbox speakers are the best I’ve heard.
Keep us in the loop on this stuff; I'd like to try some of that myself.
RM
1 week later
OK, maybe this doesn't affect anyone else, but I dislike that UM/HWN has no stops on the back ends of the service rails, so I added these bumpers.
Drilled holes in the bottom of the rails (don't even have to take them out) and used small bolts, washers and nylon lock nuts.
Now when I have the back end of the playfield lifted to get to the middle and upper playfield stuff, the playfield can't just slide forward and off the end of the service rails.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBFD3SH
RussMyers
IMG_0514 (resized).jpgIMG_0524 (resized).jpgIMG_0525 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from DropGems:Pumpkin shot rejections. Getting like 100% rejections on my game. Anyone sell an easy fix for this?
Easy? No.
Effective? Yes.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=535-8250-04
RussMyers
Quoted from TonLoc777:It’s not the prettiest solution, but I can bury shots from the left or right flipper. The pumpkin plant mod covers it, so you don’t really see it from the players perspective. Just a lil square piece of that rubber tape insulation for windows or doors from Home Depot.
[quoted image]
Why is there duct tape behind the black foam rubber piece?
RM
Quoted from DropGems:Hah good question. Maybe he tried that first? I might try the weather-striping before the insane proper metal scoop.
I would try different shaped pieces of closed-cell foam w/ adhesive backing to see if it will work.
Maybe higher on the inside top of the scoop deflector, trying to force it to go straight down.
Worth trying.
RM
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:My Sanitarium drop target is permanently down. I can start the mode by shorting the scoop but the drop is out of commission. I reflowed what looked like dicey solder joint on the coil, didn’t help. Didn’t see a visible connector to check. Anyone have this prob before? Any help is much appreciated
Does it reset in coil test?
Can you manually reset it with your finger?
RM
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:My Sanitarium drop target is permanently down. I can start the mode by shorting the scoop but the drop is out of commission. I reflowed what looked like dicey solder joint on the coil, didn’t help. Didn’t see a visible connector to check. Anyone have this prob before? Any help is much appreciated
That target reset is Solenoid Number 6 on the pinotaur board, wire color Yellow/Red - look for the connector on the board and see if it looks OK; pull off and reseat
If the Drive Transistor has failed open, that would cause it to never fire even in test
RM
UM HWN COILS (resized).jpgQuoted from TonLoc777:That was my first solution. Just a few pieces and it was working pretty well. Tested the rubber and it became extremely reliable. I used duct tape on my TNA and it def helped as well. Just needed a lil bit of padding to help with rejects. Think you could def do just the rubber and be fine with Halloween. I also removed the Mylar around the scoop.
Got it. Worth a try on my friend's HWN.
I went with the replacement deflector from Marco in my UM - you have to grind down the bottom edges a bit and drill a 3rd hole to make it fit, and the replacement is a PITA to do, but it sinks the balls beautifully now.
RM
Quoted from manadams:I have no doubt that an update will happen. People are already making excuses for Bond code so it just proves even the top dog on the block can slow roll the code while companies like Spooky catch flack for it.
Everyone buys games like Jurassic Park and Godzilla from Stern KNOWING the code won't be complete(ish) until 12-18 months from game release.
RM
Quoted from Deez:My right drop target snapped. I emailed spooky support but I'm not sure if the game is still under warranty. Where can I order a replacement? I don't have a manual for a part number.
Call AJ at Spooky on MOnday.
I am betting they will just send you one regardless.
RM
Quoted from DodgeThatOne:Dumb question, is there a way to lower the power for the flippers. I went in the menu and did not see the option, I got a lot of airballs and wanted to tone it down a little.
Thanks a lot,
Chris
At the moment, you cannot change the coil power in the menu; hoping this feature is added to future code.
Try moving the flipper rubber up just a little higher on the flipper bats and see if that makes a difference.
RM
Quoted from pinmatic:Question on the pumpkin scoop, mine is twisted a bit to the right and is not 100% at a 90° to the hole. Is anyone else's scoop twisted a little?
Can you post a clear up-close pic or two?
RM
Quoted from thekaiser82:I am not sure about all spooky games but I don’t see a lot of 3d printing in my ultraman. Most everything was hand sculpted and cast by Matt at Back Alley creations who has made a lot of great sculpts for many manufacturers.
What's 3D printed besides some/most of the ball lifter parts?
RM
1 week later
Quoted from Fmfreim:Just setup my Halloween this past weekend. I have static coming from my speakers. Any suggestions before I call Spooky?
Reseat the audio cable that goes from the board in the head to the amp in the bottom of the cab on both ends. Can easily get loose in shipping and there is not much slack in the cable.
Adjust the controls on the amp in the bottom of the cab, esp the Main Volume. Try turning it down.
It did take me some time to dial the sound in.
There is also a digital volume control using the buttons on the coin door.
RM
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:I have code_H78 downloaded to my USB drive. I tried all three USB ports and the game just boots up regularly. It’s not recognizing the USB stick
[quoted image]
When I have updated my Ultraman, it never recognized the update USB on boot, but if I plugged the USB in after it the game was fully booted and waited maybe a minute or two, it would start the update process.
RM
Quoted from lpeters82:I know everyone is expecting more, and rightfully so, but things are heading in a good direction. m4tt has been absolutely crushing it on the code.
Luke, is M4tt also the Primary for Ultraman code as well?
Any chance we can get an expected date for UM 9.x code?
Thanks,
RussM
Quoted from metallik:I haven't aimed a shot at the scoop in months. Always shoot the sanitarium to get there, direct shots are too frustrating. Have no idea how this scoop got through testing.
Have you seen the new 3D printed scoop mod that may fix this shot for you?
It just slides on.
It may be worth getting for your issue.
RM
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:RussMyers: where is the link man! I will print this bad boy right now. Faster printer! Print print!
You order it from the creator Vimtoman (same guy who makes the House Mod, etc)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spooky-halloween-amp-ultraman-mod/page/10#post-7272175
RM
Quoted from TonLoc777:The dirty pool shot is def gone. Tested it with the glass off and I can’t get it to start anymore. If you guys are having drop target issues I found replacing them all with these have been much more reliable. They were recommended by Luke from spooky. https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-drop-target-spring.html
Has anyone emailled m4tt about dirty pool no longer working?
RM
1 week later
Quoted from jkashani:Can someone post a picture of the diverter on the upper playfield when its on the position to divert to the left ramp? I remover it and want to make sure I put it back the right way. Thanks in advance.
Have you watched this?
RM
Quoted from lpeters82:Keep in mind in 1.09 code you can fine tune the diverters position on both directions.
Very glad you are adding that function.
Would love to be able to fine-tune the audio levels as well. For example, in my Ultraman I have fiddled with the digital volume control and the dials on the amplifier so everything is at a pretty balanced level except for the Pigmon Multiball Music. which really should be rocking the house but I can barely hear it. Same with some of the attract music, esp the main Ultraman "swirly colors" sounds, which also get cut off right before the end of that segment (the good part!)
RussM
Quoted from rotordave:You wanna try and upkeep 100 pins.
No bs … It is a full time job.
rd
No offense meant here, Dave, but 121 pins is nucking futz.
I can't imagine having to maintain half that number.
RM
Quoted from jkashani:after putting in the new code the game will reset after it goes through boot up or right after I play a game. I can play a game through but if I don't start it shortly after boot up it will reset. Anyone having the same problem. I tried everything to no avail.
It is of course, possible the code update caused this.
However, I would check 2 things (power off on game)
The Pinotaur board (on the bottom of the playfield) has a USB cable that comes into the bottom from the mini-PC in the head.
Check both ends of this USB cable to make sure it's seated well. That's the data cable that lets the PC control the main board.
The Pinotaur board also has a power cable, make sure it's well seated as well.
RussM
Oh, and check the power cable going into the mini-PC in the head too.
Power and Data, that's what I look at first.
RM
Quoted from jkashani:Will do later on and report back. Thanks
blockquote cite="#7313817">It is of course, possible the code update caused this.
However, I would check 2 things (power off on game)
The Pinotaur board (on the bottom of the playfield) has a USB cable that comes into the bottom from the mini-PC in the head.
Check both ends of this USB cable to make sure it's seated well. That's the data cable that lets the PC control the main board.
The Pinotaur board also has a power cable, make sure it's well seated as well.
RussM
1 week later
Quoted from hollywood:Sorry to be “that guy”, but I get my NIB CE buttercab this week and was checking out this thread. I went through the key topics, have inquired about the house/vine/scoop mod. Anything else pressing I need to know? Thanks for any suggestions you may have!!
Kyle
If you end up ordering any of those from Vimtoman, get his scoop cover/deflector. A lot of games (not all) have problems with scoop rejects. That is a good fix.
You may also have to dial in the position of the diverter at the top of the center ramp.
RM
Quoted from jk2171:Long time owner here. Finally changed drop target springs…man, what a difference! Now if I can get the damn scoop to be more reliable it would be shooting pretty great.
Order one of the Scoop Deflectors from Vimtoman - it just slips on and fixes most reject issues.
RM
2 weeks later
Quoted from Guitarpinman:I think this would be a great idea for any model; I have a CE hopefully being delivered this week and was planning on disabling the knocker as it'll likely get on my wife/s neighbours nerves, especially when playing in the evenings.
Would also be great if there was an option in settings to adjust shaker motor strength, as in my situation (living in a flat/Apartment) if a shaker's powerful it can p'off the neigbours living below us.
If Spooky's shaker is like most (not all) there is a set screw on one or both of the weights on the rotating arms: both in same direction = Max shake; 90 degree diff = med shake; 180 deg opposing = min shake
RM
Quoted from hammerhorror:I just played a game and it gave me the 2 Tilt warnings, then full on Tilt, even though I wasn't shaking the machine at all. Game then locked up with the Tilt graphic on screen and never went back to normal, so I had to turn the pin off to get it to work again. I have my tilt bob set very low, so I really have to shake the machine to get it to tilt, so I have no idea why that happened. It was during Jack O Lantern multiball.
If you put a USB drive into the slot in the head unit it will copy the log files onto it - email those to Matt and tell him what happened.
RM
Quoted from dddanielll:I've encountered this same bug before, mine started launching balls non stop until i power cycled the game
Matt is asking for log files when crap like this happens.
RM
Quoted from runpaulone:Can anyone help with the plunger issue I have? Just purchased this a week ago, got it set up and plunger does not hit the ball anywhere near well enough to get it moving. Should the plunger hit the ball or the metal object resting on it? Sorry for my lack or knowledge on proper terminology. Spring seems very weak compared to other pins I just bought.
Thank you. -Paul
[quoted image]
The rubber-covered end of your shooter rod should be directly in the center of those two metal forks barely not touching the ball at rest.
Those two metal forks are the auto-launcher, and should never touch the shooter rod.
It's like your playfield is not sitting in the cabinet correctly and/or the shooter rod assembly is skewed way too far to the left.
Can you take another picture zoomed out a bit but from the same overhead angle so we can see that whole corner of the cabinet, especially how the playfield hooks are in the lock bar bracket. We need to see more of that area.
RussM
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:How does one lift the middle playfield ?
I am willing to be corrected, but this does not seem possible without significant disassembly.
There is no easy way to do it as far as I can see on my own game (UM).
RussM
Quoted from doublestack:I'm sure it's already been addressed but what is the cause of a pinball falling into the cabinet?
Had a game on route that was off for 4-5 days until I could get to it and found a ball in the coinbox.
Wasn't there an issue with early-run games where there was some kind of gap at or next to the center ramp that would allow a ball to fall into the cabinet?
I'll try to find that.
RM
1 week later
Quoted from Guitarpinman:Has anyone else had the centre drop target issue and been able to resolve it?; the left drop target on my machine (in front of the centre ramp) after a few games gets stuck down and doesn't reset - this also stops the centre and right drop targets in the bank from being able to go all the way down.
Looking under the PF I can see that the cause of this is the let target slipping out of the reset mech/plate below, so the mech can't push the target back up and the mech also can't go all thr way back down (thus stopping the other two target from coming all the way down)
I can temporarily fix by popping the left target back in, but after a handful of games, I get same issue (annoying having to take the glass off and left the PF every time)
Is there a proper fix? (I've mentioned it directly to spooky and distributor)
I also realised the washed out screen is because of the viewing angle (looks fine of you bend down with eyes level to the screen, but from a playing angle it looks washed out; greys instead of blacks etc) - I'm guessing there's no way to deal with that?
Anyway, I see the next code update is imminent - so looking forward to to that
While you are waiting for Spooky to get back to you, here's what I would do.
Flip the playfield up, look ate the connectors for the 3-drop assembly - should be one for the reset coil and one for the switches.
Disconnect those and unscrew and pull the entire assembly out and look at it carefully.
Work the targets up and down and what is causing your issues may be apparent when it's all working right in front of you.
That may clear it up.
RussMyers
Quoted from Morgoth00:-Was diverter adjustment removed?
The Diverter Adjustment is still there, at least on my Ultraman v 1.10
It's under Game Feature Settings:
Divert Right Offset
Divert Left Offset
RussM
Quoted from Wariodolby:The flippers seem super strong now?!They where fine to me before.
Was that in the new code?
You can adjust coil strengths now in 1.10, I don't think we could previously.
The base strength now may be higher that previously.
I guess try dialling it down.
RM
Quoted from dnaman:I will check those settings to see if I can increase because I had no difference in flipper strength and as a matter of fact I have always had serious 'flipper fade', really after a few games. This morning I played 5 games after the update and by game 3 my flippers were noticeably weak, by the 5th game just unplayable. It's not knew so I am going to message support. The previous suggestion was to ensure that the wiring connectors were well seated on the main board. which I have done. I'm thinking that this is really what PinMonk has been working to resolve through cooling.
I find that interesting because I played maybe 10 games in a row on my UM this morning and had no flipper fade I could discern.
I can only relate my experience.
RussM
Quoted from Guitarpinman:2. Dirty pool shot
I was looking forward to trying this out, as the previous code update didn't have it.
I hit it I think once or twice (in-between the left and right drop targets), and nothing happend? (Was expecting a cool callout and special clip) - I believe I did this during a mode, so maybe nothing happens then?
Anyway, looking forward to playing some more tomorrow with the new features in mind to test out x2 scoring etc!
I have UM not HWN, but I "think" you can only get Dirty Pool when you drop the middle target and then thread the needle with a second shot at the start of each ball, not at any time when 3 targets are up.
I think.
Test it with glass off manually.
RM
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Dirty pool shot just opens up the house early and you get a bunch of points, there is no special callout or animation for it though. I got it twice since new update so it's been working fine for me.
Interesting. UM gets a Double Scoring and special animation where Ultraman splits the Baltan in half with an Energy Buzzsaw.
RM
Quoted from Guitarpinman:That happens to me a couple of times a game; I just give it a nudge and all good, but apparently there's a way to adjust the metal flaps to bring them closer to level with the PF?
Yes, take off the cover sling plastics, and loosen the posts that the flap is under.
Center the flap, making sure that it won't touch anything when it's up, and tighten the posts back down to hold the flap in place.
Don't overtighten, since that can warp the flaps - they are very thin.
RussM
Quoted from GreenMachine19:Does anyone know the specs on the mini pc? RAM size? Willing to share?
I cannot confirm this AT ALL, but...
I think this one was identified as the one used, at least in early runs of UM/HWN; and I think the switched to another later on.
I wish this was perhaps documented better for future support concerns.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B099N5CY65/
May be correct, may be wrong
RM
Quoted from Beechwood:Wife was playing last night and it crashed. Never happened before. Latest code.
Restarted and was fine.
[quoted image]
Did you email Matt with that screenshot?
RM
Quoted from pseudonimh:Does anyone know what otpo's are used, I need to replace one on the house playfield but am unsure where to order etc.
https://www.pinballlife.com/opto-receiver-pcb-for-spooky-pinball.html
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-receiver-and-pcb-board-copy.html
RM
Quoted from pseudonimh:This don't look like the drop target optos I have?
Sorry, didn't know which ones you needed.
The Spooky Drop Optos are are on a little PCB.
Let me see if I can find them.
You can also call AJ at Spooky and order them.
RM
Quoted from pseudonimh:This don't look like the drop target optos I have?
PBL has them but not separately; Call AJ at Spooky he'll hook you up.
RM
Quoted from McIntyre905:So have not played my machine in a bit and decided to play a round or two today but during the first game the ball went into the pumpkin scoop and never returned even after a shake and ball locate. Now it seems none of my servos are working
Anyone run into this problem
Go into Settings and then Switch Test and Servo Test and figure out what is and isn't working.
Check the fuses on the Pinotaur board as well.
RM
Quoted from McIntyre905:Went into servo test and nothing worked.
How do I check the fuse? Sorry still need to pins
Here's part of the Pinotaur board on the bottom of the playfield.
See the area that has the fuses? There is one marked Servos.
To check if a fuse is blown, IIRC there are little green LEDs by each fuse that are lit if the fuse is OK, otherwise you have to pull the fuse out and check continuity with a meter.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from McIntyre905:This is in the top part behind the back glass or under the table
On the bottom of the playfield. Or "table" if you prefer.
It's red.
RM
Quoted from rdonohue13:Ok so I want to cry right now because I was about to blow it up. On ball two I hit the Judith shot on the plunge. Knocked down the targets and into the scoop. I purchased 2x scoring started the mode that is all the targets, bounced the ball over right to left and unlocked the Judith multiball. Two shots in I hit the third Michael shot while still in Judith and the game crashed.
Terrible, I know.
Was there a crash screen? Can you get a pic?
Can you stick a blank USB into the board in the head?
That will load possible error log files that should be sent to Matt at spooky.
RM
Quoted from RussMyers:Terrible, I know.
Was there a crash screen? Can you get a pic?
Can you stick a blank USB into the board in the head?
That will load possible error log files that should be sent to Matt at spooky.
RN
Quoted from ActionDirk:I´m sorry, bit can you specify, which servos you used? I guess Treedix is the manufaturer but what specific servo? I kinda missed the links others adviced and i kinda dont want to look the hole thread through...
Thanks!
These:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0874JS7BX
these are also the EXACT ones Spooky sent me as replacements a week later
RM
Quoted from Var1AbL3:Yes, these work great! BUT, please do note that each box comes with THREE servos. I didn't pay attention (mostly because I assumed $12 was for one) and ordered three packs. Now I have one of my parts drawers completely full of these tiny servos.
SERVO PARTY !!!!!!
RM
Quoted from ActionDirk:Much appreciated! And thank for the link. only thing in europe is, our amazon doesnt necessarily has all the items as the one in US or you have to pay a lot more because of import toll an all that stuff. but i´ll do my very best to find an adaquate alternative.
Yeah, I understand about that.
As greenmachine said earlier - Any (good quality) MG90S servo should work
RM
2 weeks later
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Spooky is sending out a new strip. They are awesome. Question for you, how did you secure the protector over your lights? Did you also buy a channel for it to snap the protector in place?
IMG_0482 (resized).jpgIMG_0484 (resized).jpgIMG_0486 (resized).jpgIMG_0487 (resized).jpgIMG_0488 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Selig:My Halloween freezes if I leave it on overnight. It gets stuck on the Fawzma attract screen which still plays but seems to play in a loop and everything else on the game is frozen. I am on 1.10. Anyone else experience this? I thought the Fawzma screen was removed after the last few updates?
The Fawzma screen credit is still there on 1.10 and no idea if they are dumping that, and the crash is a memory leak issue that Matt/Spooky already know about; something crashes the software after being left on and running for hours. They have or are working on a fix.
Definitely an issue for location pinball.
RussM
1 month later
OK, so you are in the UK and this link is to Amazon USA, but I have used the Treedix 3 pcs MG90S 9g Servo Motor Micro Metal Gear servos as replacements. These exact servos are also the ones that Spooky is now using as replacements.
$12.99 USD for a set of 3.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874JS7BX/
RussM
Quoted from Lostcause:I replaced my hedge servo’s with what I thought were quality ones (not copies) and 2 of 3 have broke up. One did it straight away and the other was shaky to start then stopped working after about 25 games, just took this out and has done the same thing. They were no.1 and 2, no.3 isn’t looking so smooth so will see if that one breaks too. Have emailed the model company I bought them from https://stevewebb.co.uk/index.php?pid=MG90S&area=Servo
What am I doing wrong lol
Will buy cheap next time.
[quoted image]
pasted_image (resized).png 2 weeks later
Quoted from TheLaw:- Bob & Linda mode says Purple shots when choosing then says pink during? Or are there multiple colors? Felt a little confused multiple times during thr mode...will re check
-when Sanatarium is running with B&L text gets cut odd. "Shoot series Scoop is lit for sanatorium."
"Purple" inserts looking "Pink" is an issue that has been in UM/HWN for a long time.
It seems that the RGB color they use for Purple looks purple under white inserts, but pink when there is any reddish color playfield art over them.
This should be fixable, but they haven't fixed it yet.
RM
Quoted from lpeters82:It won't make this update, but I do like the idea of the middle playfield increasing the spinner damage values.
That's not a bad idea.
Maybe a simple Text on screen?
"Spinners at 1.5x!"
"Spinners at 2.0x!"
"Spinners at Max!"
RussM
1 week later
Quoted from PanzerKraken:That's what I don't get, but does that cause the "skill shot missed" to appear?
Cause that's what is happening, randomly when you shoot the skill shot turns off and there is no "missed" message. If it is the right orbit switch, not sure why it's triggering as im launching and it's making the rull loop and coming out left orbit
skill shot missed - I asked Matt about that and it's been removed fro the 1.11 update; seemed too negative.
There is now no message specifically to tell you that you missed the skill shot.
I'd like to be able to turn that On/Off in the menu, but for now it's gone
RM
Quoted from PanzerKraken:For just the right outlane? cause the game still says skill shot missed if you hit any other switch when you launch the ball
For Ultraman, it seems to be removed completely.
Maybe Matt did something else for Halloween.
RussM
Quoted from Roostking:Wait, the comment itself was too negative?
Matt said that the call out "Skill Shot Missed" sounded too negative, so they removed it from UM on code 1.11
I assumed they made the same change for HWN 1.11
RussM
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:My middle Michael quit working. Did the servo test and no response. What are y’all’s suggestions for a new servo to buy for replacement? What exact service do I need? TIA
If you call AJ at Spooky SUpport, they will probably send you a replacement servo.
If you want it ASAP, I have used these from Amazon:
Treedix 3 pcs MG90S 9g Servo Motor Micro Metal Gear Compatible
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874JS7BX/
NOTE: that is 12.99 for a 3-pack, so you get 3 of them
RussM
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Would be great to have m4tt on the stream to give him the incredible recognition he richly deserves. (And delete the Fawzma Games logo !)
I second this proposal.
RM
Quoted from Lpilot1:The middle playfield drop target seems to have a switch instead of an Opto. When I move the switch during switch test I’m getting nothing. I can hear the switch clicking. The tab on the drop target is clear but shouldn’t matter as I see no Opto. Anyone have any ideas?
Yes the middle playfield drop target does not use an opto switch like the top and bottom ones do; it has a microswitch.
It looks like there is only one wire on the lugs of your microswitch; there needs to be two. Look for a broken off wire.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Oneangrymo:kind of annoying was having a good game, then this. How did you guys fix this?
Well, I've never had two balls get stuck like that, but I'd take off that plastic on the right and look at the plastic post at that corner.
If it's a star post, maybe replace it with a narrow post, something to widen that gap a bit.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from whoknowsgoi:It works than goes completely dead than works again, right flipper only
When you are in Switch Test, and pressing the right flipper button, you are getting Active(pressed closed)/Inactive(open) for both Upper and Lower Right Flipper switches, yes?
And when you try the Left flipper button, it shows up exactly the same in switch test (except UL and LL)?
RussM
Quoted from Lpilot1:What exactly does the Michael bump setting do?
With it on, every time one of the small targets below the hedges gets hit, Michael will bump out a little and back.
Off is off.
RussM
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Yea, you ever notice when you hit a stand up target by a hedge micheal kinda does a little movement? That's the bump. Kind of weird effect but last update added the option to stop that from happening. Always felt it was kind of weird feature and it's just adding more work to the servos so turned it off as soon as it was added. Same with the Micheal wave, was fun first couple times, but don't need it every time.
The "wave" was apparently added at some point to solve an issue where on some machines the Michael/Baltan servo positions would get out of alignment during a game. The wave resets them to zero position.
If you aren't having that problem, keep them off, unless you just dig the wave.
RussM
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:I’m really curious why this is such an issue. Multimorphic uses tons of these types of servos in their games, and once dialed in (99.9% of the time done in factory), they are rock solid. Why does this happen on HWN/UM?
No idea. Never saw it on my Ultraman.
You could call Spooky and ask AJ.
RussM
2 weeks later
Quoted from Jamieryan71:Thanks, I'll reach out to him
I shouldn't have to be asking here, but unfortunately I do.
I've been trying to get Spooky to send me an adapter for over 2 months, and they've just sent me the wrong cables twice. The LED cable for RGB 1 is at least 13" long, and they send me 8" cables, and the cables wouldn't work on the LED strip side anyways, I think the cable is permanently attached to the strip. After telling them this again, they just reply with "put the retention clip on the inside".
I think they just glance at my emails and quickly reply, not fully reading it or looking at the pictures I send. I've been dealing with this for over 9 months now, and it's happened numerous times, with various parts, while trying to figure out why my game's been crashing since last October. Probably could have solved the crashing problem 6 months ago if they consistently worked with me troubleshooting the problem, instead of me having to always hound them and having different parts thrown at me.
Very frustrating to spend $10,000 and not be able to play the game for 9+ months.
Have you personally talked to AJ directly about it and explained the problem.
I have never had him fail to help me out.
RussM
2 weeks later
Quoted from BillyPilgrim:I have to replace one of mine I suspect, is it an easy process?
Flip the playfield up, cut the zip ties holding the servo wire bundles together (yellow, red black I think)
Unbolt the wireform that holds the hedges and michael servos and feed the wires up though as you pull the wireform forward.
I put a towel down on the playfield and rest it on that
Easy to see how to replace them; do one at a time
You probably will have to adjust the position of the Michaels once they are replaced rest vs peeking out positions
RM
1 week later
Quoted from TILT44:None of the lights work on middle playfield (Where Sanitarium is), even the light strip around it. Does anyone have any suggestions on what it might be or what I should check first? I want to try to see if it's a simple fix before I pay our local tech to come over. I've ran the light test and also the switch test, all the switches on that area are working, it's just the lights that are not. Thanks for any help!
[quoted image][quoted image]
OK, when a whole bunch of the same type of stuff stops working at the same time, I suspect connector(s) or possibly fuse.
I don't think that stuff is individually fused in sections like that, so I'd flip the playfield up and start looking from the wires that feed that area's lights to where they are connected on the board.
Start with that.
RM
Quoted from Oneangrymo:My pumpkin flasher works very intermittingly. I isolated it to the top wire that connects to the bulb, squeezing it makes the light go off. anyone know where I can get a replacement ?
Thanks[quoted image]
I can't see your picture, just a broken icon
RM
1 week later
Quoted from 30FathomDave:Bummer. Just tried the update on my Mac with two different sticks, following the terminal command. Same issue as before (but worked when I updated to 1.12).
Oh, well. Guess I'm hanging out until 1.14. I don't have a PC, nor do I have easy access to one.
Surely you have a local friend with a Windows machine you could ask to help you.
I do this for a buddy who is Mac-only.
How about your local public library?
They usually have publicly available PCs.
RM
Quoted from Angell1028:I haven't updated code in quite some time because of all the bugs that have been reported so I've been patiently waiting. Can I update right to 1.13a without updating to previous codes?
You can just go right to it, no need to update to previous codes.
RM
2 weeks later
Quoted from hammerhorror:Hi,
I just replaced the 3 springs on the main drop target bank under the deflector because the targets were starting to stick. I put everything back together and now the drop targets won't reset on their own. When I start a new game they stay in the down position. I went in to the "Coil Test Menu" and tried a "Coil (bank target reset)" and that was successful. However, I go to start another game and they never return to the up position. Any ideas on what could be causing this?
Thanks in advance,
John
Check the switches for those targets.
The game needs to know when all the targets are up or down, and be able to activate the reset coil.
Since you know the reset coil is working, test the switches.
RM
Quoted from hammerhorror:Thanks. Stuck switch test menu doesn't show anything out of the ordinary. I pushed the drop targets with my finger in the switch test menu and nothing registers on screen when they go down.
OK, so all 3 targets are not showing as Active when they are down.
That's your problem.
Flip the playfield up and take a good look at the switch PCB and it's wiring and connectors.
RM
Quoted from Ratman:Hi people,
Does anyone know how to take the upper playfields off so I can change out the plastic shield over the drop targets???
You do not actually need to take the middle and/or upper playfield off to change that plastic shield out.
John_C has detailed instruction how to do it by just loosening the playfields to get more room, but I have done it without even doing that.
There are two 5/16 nylon lock nuts on threaded post studs under the edge of the middle playfield.
With some low-profile tools I was able get both the lock nuts off (catch them with a magnetic tool), and then get them back on.
It's a very tight fit but it can be done.
RussM
1 week later
Quoted from dsmoke1986:Was playing this morning and left inlane subway is now stuck in the up position...Any ideas on how to fix this?
Is it mechanically binding on something or has the servo failed?
RM
Quoted from dsmoke1986:I think the servo might have failed. Is it easy to replace?
I need to do the two servos for Michael Hedges as well
I haven't replaced one of the bigger servos on the ball lifters yet, but it looks not too difficult.
You'll need a Feetech FT5320M servo. If you don't have a spare that came with your game call AJ at Spooky and they'll send you a new one.
I'll see if there is a posted method.
As far as the Hedge Michael servos go, probably best to replace all 3 at once.
I and others like these Treedix 3 pcs MG90S https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874JS7BX
NOTE: -that's 12.99 for a 3-pack of servos; all you need
RussM
Quoted from dsmoke1986:Awesome. Thx Russ!!
Here's where Luke talks about the lifter mechs - may be some useful stuff there:
RM
1 week later
Quoted from matt68061:Evening all. For those of you that have replaced the Michael servos… are the ones with the metal ‘gearing’ the preferred replacement?
Any install tips? Ive got a dead Michael and according to my servo test and unlike in the movies, it looks like he’s not coming back to life.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Matt
Take the glass off and the balls out
Flip the playfield up and find the bundle of servo wires - cut the zip ties so they are free
Place the playfield back down, place a towel on the playfield
Take the hedges off, they go in a specific order
Detach the wireform and pull it out - take careful note of where the back ends go, that's crucial to getting it to fit back in at the end
Take the Michaels off
Flip the wireform over and clip all or most of the zip ties
Replace all 3 of the servos, one at a time
Zip tie the wires back together just like they were and flip the wireform back upright
Don't put the Michaels back on yet
Turn the game on, it will reset the 3 servos to the Hidden position
Go into servo test and test each servo so you know they are working
Leave them in Hidden position
Turn the game back off
Replace the Michaels (Note - you may have to use the small screws that come with the new servos for this, the old ones may not fit the new servos)
Replace the hedges
Feed the wires back down
And replace the wire form and bolt down
Flip the playfield back up and re-zip the wires neatly
Done
Get this 3-pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874JS7BX/
RussM
Quoted from TooMetal:Are there any good videos on YouTube or elsewhere that show how to replace the servos? A video like that would be a big help to a noob like me.
I have already posted a fairly detailed walkthrough, but I understand
If you PM me I can give you my cell and walk you through it, maybe facetime if needed
RussMyers
Quoted from Silverscreen65:Ok, couple small issues nothing to serious. 1. Judith myers drop target drops only half way down after hit or you lose the ball, hit right flipper will eventually drop and release the ball? any ideas on this fix?
It's a single-drop target mech and it's pretty simple overall
Take the glass off and the balls out
Get a flashlight and open the coin door
You can reset the target by hand by pushing up on the reset plate
The plastic target has a small lip it sits on, and there is a spring that pulls it down when a ball or your finger hits it, pushing it off the the lip
Watch it closely from underneath as it goes up and drops down
Is it catching on anything? Something has to be interfering with it
If you cant see what the problem is from this angle you may have to pull the playfield up and forward onto the rail so you can have a closer look
Dont forget to use protectors to prevent damage to the art blades
This particular drop target mech is slightly more complicated since it also has a drop-coil submech (the game can drop the target on it's own whenever it wants to) as well as reset it back up
RussM
Quoted from K9Marshal:I think they took a winning layout and improved
Can't I just bring my pin to your house Russ?
Any time.
RM
Quoted from mzhulk:You should be able to select the wizard mode by holding both flippers buttons, like new sterns instead of going into settings.
THIS x 10,000
RussMyers
Quoted from K9Marshal:Halloween ce 923 unboxed and set up yesterday - updated code to new code - played and it was fine. Today game won’t boot. Speaker lights and backbox lights come on and that’s it. And now speaker lights out.
Help!!!!
Open the backbox and take a close look at the MiniPC in the head.
Make sure all of the cables are firmly plugged into it, especially the power cable. I think there is also a USB cable to communicate with the Pinotaur board and maybe and RJ45 as well but I suspect power cable.
You game just got moved and unboxed so it's been shaken around a lot.
Anything can get loose during moving.
As a general rule I also strongly recommend getting and using art blade protectors with this game every time you lift the playfield, no exceptions. Really same for any game with blades.
RussMyers
Quoted from K9Marshal:I learned that the hard way the first time I had Halloween / playfield is super tight. I checked every connection in the game but I will recheck everything again just to be sure.
It just really sounds like the computer isn't getting power, and that could be power cable at either end or fuse or something.
RM
Quoted from K9Marshal:Maybe so - on the main board the usb status is flashing green, 3.3v is green, 5v and 12v red and the last one that says enable is not lit. Unsure what one working should look like. And as I said the 3 lower fuses on that board just flicker green upon the game trying to boot and are not solid green line the 3 fuses above
Are you talking about the board in the head or the red pinotaur board on the bottom of the playfield?
RM
Quoted from kciaccio:No.
Use this. Make sure to use a respirator mask.
https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6/ref=sr_1_1
For something like this, if I were to wear poly gloves and eye goggles, could I get away without a respirator if I were to spray completely outside, like out in the driveway away from the house in open air?
RM
Quoted from Roostking:This is most likely a setup question, but i seem to have had trough issues for quite some time, and it wont detect end of ball. I have to manually intervene everytime and its pretty much every game now.
In the pics attached, you can see one with space before the ball gets over the plunger and thats when it works. The other, you can see the ball is farther towards the cab and the end trough switch isnt registering. How do I keep that ball from moving forward mike that.
Game and code are stellar otherwise![quoted image][quoted image]
Take the glass off and throw the game into Ball Trough Test
Cycle the balls through the test, making sure the balls are landing on the correct switch (and keeping that switch Active) and that the switches are registering correctly
There should be 7 balls, and 7 switches in the trough, one for each ball, plus one extra above the plunger (Ball Jam) AND the shooter lane switch.
RM
Quoted from pinmatic:I do have a bug that I'd like to report if it hasn't already. I complete the middle ramp, through the pretzel and over the balcony, all before the video clip finishes. This throws the flow and excitement off. It seems like the code is loosely coupled between the mechanical part of the game and is not in sync with the video/audio. I think this needs to be addressed across the entire game. It is one of the reasons why the flow of the game is off between modes.... Please get this addressed Spooky!
Have you emailed this to Matt? He's the coder.
RM
Quoted from K9Marshal:I know someone had posted suggested setting changes for stock display. Anyone have the info ???
This is what has been suggested by others for R&M, HWN and UM
Brightness 40%
Contrast 80%
Gamma on
RN
Quoted from Roostking:So, where do you make the changes? Ive looked through a bunch if settings, but not finding these options.
You have to manipulate the buttons on the back of the LCD panel itself in the head.
RM
Quoted from waletboy:What did you do to adjust the springs? New ones? I have times when the drop targets do not go down when hit and it is the only issue I have had with mine. Solid machine!
There are stronger springs you can change to; I think people are using the Data East drop target springs...
But you can always take each spring off and shorten it a bit to make it pull a bit harder; not too much or they won't stay up.
RM
Quoted from finnflash:What do you guys use to clean the ball tracks on Halloween? It seems so much worse on this game then my others and I had never found a good way to remove them.
If 91% isopropyl doesn't take it off, try some Novus 2 on a clean rag, then alcohol to get rid of residue, then wax.
I try to use Novus sparingly, since it is a very fine abrasive.
RussM
Quoted from shaunsquid:Has anyone else been having issues with orbit shots not registering since (I think) v1.13? Might be a coincidence, but I noticed when I went from v1.12 to v.1.14. It has made Death in the Driver's Seat unplayable.
Have you tested the orbit switches by putting the game into switch test; slow and fast moving balls, both directions
I had one fail because the plastic bracket for the switch went squirrely
RM
1 month later
Quoted from Silverscreen65:Hey need advice here, so I just noticed today the middle michael figure doesnt swing out? when the ball passes down the left wire ramp. Is there adjustment for this or is something needing replaced? Any thoughts. I tried to search posts didnt see any specifics for this?
First, test all 3 Michael servos in Servo Test Mode.
If one is bad, I recommend just replacing all 3 at once, but up to you.
HWN/UM Servo Replacemet
Take the glass off and the balls out
Flip the playfield up and find the bundle of servo wires - cut the zip ties so they are free
Place the playfield back down, place a towel on the playfield
Take the hedges off, they go in a specific order
Detach the wireform and pull it out - take careful note of where the back ends go, that's crucial to getting it to fit back in at the end
Take the Michaels off
Flip the wireform over and clip all or most of the zip ties
Replace all 3 of the servos, one at a time
Zip tie the wires back together just like they were and flip the wireform back upright
Don't put the Michaels back on yet
Turn the game on, it will reset the 3 servos to the Hidden position
Go into servo test and test each servo so you know they are working
Leave them in Hidden position
Turn the game back off
Replace the Michaels (Note - you may have to use the small screws that come with the new servos for this, the old ones may not fit the new servos)
Replace the hedges
Feed the wires back down
And replace the wire form and bolt down
Flip the playfield back up and re-zip the wires neatly
Done
Get this 3-pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0874JS7BX/
RussM
2 weeks later
Quoted from Lostcause:Maybe they gave you an Ultraman one?
Got to be something on those boards that don’t allow you to play the other game.
The Pinotaur board on the bottom of the playfield is absolutely identical between Ultraman and Halloween.
The mini-PC in the backbox that runs the game code (and there are at least 2 different hardware versions of that I have seen) is locked to either UM or HWN. You can't load code for one game on the other, probably due to IP licensing.
RM
Quoted from wrb1977:That is incorrect. The Pinotaur boards while physically the same are flashed with different firmware. The error Lpilot1 is getting is the error message you get when you put an Ultraman Pinotaur in a Halloween.
That's news to me, but you may be right.
It's not what Spooky support told me a year ago, though.
RM
Quoted from Lostcause:It would be too easy to just put an Ultraman pc in Halloween or reimage your Halloween pc to have Ultraman on, was having this conversation with Vimtoman and we thought it must be on the Pinotaur board that determines which game you can play.
That makes sense.
Definitely makes support harder for them, though.
Easy to send out the wrong board unless you mark them clearly, at least in-house.
RussM
Quoted from Lpilot1:Update, AJ sent a link for files that were downloaded and then uploaded to the game. It’s working perfectly now. I guess that is what “flashing” is.
Well, that is good to know that can be done on location, rather than having to send the board back to Spooky to get re-flashed.
Support-wise, that works for me.
RM
Quoted from Seamlesswall:Solved my own problem. It was an internally shorted servo. Disconnected and the game played normally. Replaced and all is good.
Which servo was it?
RM
Quoted from rockrand:How did you know which one was shorted ?
Well, one way would be to disconnect them one at a time until the problem stops, or, disconnect them all and plug them back in one at a time until the issue starts up again.
2nd method would tell you it's probably one of the servos, since you disconnected them all and the problem stopped.
RM
3 weeks later
Quoted from jp1985:I just put some carbon balls in, no luck, any other ideas?
Have you put the game into the specific Trough Test and cycled through, making sure the switches both activate and stay when they are supposed to?
That test should reveal what is happening.
RM
Quoted from John_C:I figured out what happened. The 3amp slow-blow fuse for Solenoid Bank 0 failed. I inspected all the wiring from the plug on the pinotaur board out to all the solenoids affected (all of the solenoids on the Sanitarium and House levels). Not finding anything that looked wrong / shorted, etc., I moved the fuse for solenoid bank 1 over to solenoid bank 0, rebooted the machine, and then tested all of the solenoids in the sanitarium and house. Everything worked fine and the fuse for solenoid bank 0 did not blow.
Can these glass slow-blow fuses fail over time? I probably have over 2000 games on my Halloween.
Now where to find some spare fuses?
I would have said Radio Shack but those days are over LOL.
Any good hardware store should have fuses; take the burnt out one with you to match. Make sure the specs are the same. Should be a 20mm fuse I think?
I always advise that anyone who owns pinball machines should have a basic supply of 20mm and 1 1/4" fuses on hand.
Pinball Life sells a variety box of fuses.
RM
Quoted from woodmedic:I got my new to me Halloween at home and set up. What a fun game to shoot! For now I have the pitch set at 6.5 degrees. What do most of you have yours set at? The shooter rod seems to barely get the ball all the way around at that setting. May need to check alignment. My pumpkin isn't working consistently. Is this a common problem? Sometimes I know its trying to flash but it will flicker when the flippers are hit or some other vibration. Anyway it is a very fun game that I am thrilled to have in my collection. It will look great sitting next to TCM when it arrives!
Are you running the latest code? At the moment that is 1.14 for HWN.
RM
Quoted from woodmedic:Indeed I am.
"My pumpkin isn't working consistently. Is this a common problem? Sometimes I know its trying to flash but it will flicker when the flippers are hit or some other vibration. "
OK, do you mean the flasher inside the Pumpkin or the switch that detects the ball when it goes into the Pumpkin Scoop?
If the flasher, put the game into flasher test mode and see if it works consistently.
If not, take it apart and have a look. It's pretty much just a standard #89 bayonet flasher socket under there. It may be loose or a wire may be janky or whatever. You just moved the game right? They always punish us for moving them.
RussMyers
OK, I feel thick as a plank, but as I was doing some maintenance on my own games (waxing, leveling, etc) I noticed something.
The Stern games have their LCD screens at a noticeable backwards tilt, so the player (of average height I suppose) gets the screen fairly flat-on, but Spooky has their LCD panels flat/parallel to the backbox face, so the player of average height sees the display at a noticeable angle, and this is the cause of the display not looking as good, IMO (all other factors aside.)
Cannot be a coincidence.
RussMyers
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Intersting observation; you may be on to something. I'm not at my games; is the Stern panel offset via some spacers, or is it just how the backbox is built?
It's how the panel is built. It's obviously on purpose.
It just jumps out at me now, with Stern and Spooky games side-by-side.
RM
2 weeks later
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Thank you all
Has anyone replaced one ?
Difficulty level?
Contact AJ at Spooky, tell him the problem and they will send you a new one
Not hard to replace, you'll have to remove the smoked grey cover there with the fence on it
have to cut the little zip ties holding the old LED strip on
find the place where the old LED strip unplugs and the strip is adhesive backed and will peel off
kind of a challenge to thread the new strip in because small spaces but doable, you do NOT have to take the middle playfield off or anything
some people have DIY'ed a protective cover for that particular strip because it is exposed to ball strikes
RM
IMG_0482 (resized).jpgIMG_0484 (resized).jpgIMG_0486 (resized).jpgIMG_0487 (resized).jpgIMG_0488 (resized).jpgResized_2 (resized).JPEGQuoted from bleachout:Is there a guide on how to replace one of the frosted drop targets in the three bank assembly? Does the assembly need to be removed from the underside of the playfield? Thanks all, so much great info in this thread. I searched and searched and came up empty handed. I recently acquired a location used Halloween CE. Replaced the hedge Michael servos, got those working again. I also have a couple flashers and the lower LED strip on it's way from Spooky.
You probably don't need to take the whole assembly out
I'd Raise the playfield all the way against the backbox
Each target has a drop spring that pulls them down, take that spring off first
Then there will be one or two C-clips that need to come off, possibly with some washers that let the target slide freely up and down.
Make sure all these parts get back on in exactly the same place and order, and then replace the spring last
Make sure the target you replace is exactly the same as the other two, only do one at a time if you replace more than one
They are not super complicated
There is an adjustment screw on the bottom of the reset plate to make sure the tops of the targets are exactly level with the playfield when they are down
RM
1 week later
Quoted from hawkeyexx:I was hoping for a code update. My wife enjoys this alot since the last update. My wife and I purchased NIB Scooby Doo and the day we unboxed it you could not play a game. I've had the glass off it to work on it more than we have played it. Even the playfield glass was damaged and Spooky said they can't send a replacement glass. It will be interesting if a code will drop in the next few months.
I am very sorry to hear that. My Scooby arrived in perfect condition and I've had very few issues. Not every game has been that trouble-free.
What kind of damage did the playfield glass have and why won't Spooky send you a replacement?
RussM
Quoted from rockrand:I would like to know why spooky can’t ship a sheet of glass?
If they cant or wont ship glass (it is a PITA) they should be willing to pay for a locally sourced sheet of tempered widebody (I get quoted about 80 bucks) or pay for this: https://www.pinballlife.com/widebody-tempered-playfield-glass-shippable-1-pack.html
RM
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:Anyone know what’s up with these apron tabs? The tabs and the plastic are protruding pretty good. Is it normally like that? I took off the apron and tried to adjust them back. It didn’t work. Just wondering if this is normal?
[quoted image]
Normal. Those tabs hold the apron down. They should be low enough the ball doesn't contact them.
RM
Quoted from jp1985:I’m still dealing with multiple balls getting put into the shooter lane. All trough switches fire correctly, additionally I was able to trigger the trough jam sensor. Is there anything I missed?
When i was going to test the machine by playing a game, the coil towards the back left of the playfield started smoking! Is this a known issue? I hadn’t touched anything near that area.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Does this coil lock on as soon as you turn the game on?
If yes, then the drive transistor is probably shorted to ground.
Turn the game back off and de-solder the ground wire marked in green.
That will let you play but the coil will be nonfunctional; that's the coil that drops the magnet bridge, yes?
Call AJ at Spooky and they will have you test the drive transistor.
May have to send the Pinotaur board back to them for repair.
RussM
4 weeks later
Quoted from Lpilot1:Does this game have any batteries that need to be changed? I never looked.
Yes, the miniPC in the head takes this type of battery:
3V CR2032 CMOS Battery with Wire Leads and MOLEX Connector
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C58GLVF9/
I know Bug posted a video on how and when to change them but I cant find it.
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Quoted from SpookyLuke:Remember to make sure the game is ON when you change batteries or you will lose data!
Luke, do you have a link somewhere to the video for changing the batteries on UM, HWN, SD, TCM, LT?
I saw it somewhere but can't find it now.
RussMyers
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