I’ve got two P1Ps and they’ve been awesome out of the gate. Many hundreds of hours of prints and only minor maintenance things.

First time FDM printing, no experience.
Note: I’ve been exclusively printing PLA

Edit: I do have one major software frustration. Some P1P firmware update earlier this year knocked out phone notifications entirely for sliced Pauses and print fails/ filament run-out. That has been a headache since I pause a lot to drop magnets into the prints.

We run 4 P1P with 7 AMS at the moment. All PLA+ machines. They were all purchased this year starting in Feb and have run at minimum 12hr days.

Have been printing for 5+ years and they are a dream. Yes I've had to deal with BBL for warranty replacement parts for the AMS, but I know what they need (pics, videos, complete description, order and model ID) when you submit a ticket, so the transactions have been quick and no headache for me. Printed very few mods and have really only made a few adjustments and replaced ptfe tubing.

The P1P is their budget model on that platform. It doesn't have the same level of compensation as the X1C does, for example, with the higher print speeds. I do find it somewhat funny that you blast BambuLab but still ended up with the A1.

As others have said, these are all SOHO machines and each manufacturer and model will have its own quirks and idiosyncrasies. If you find something that does what you expect and are happy with it, then GREAT! Personally, I've got the X1C and have been thrilled with it (other than the WiFi... really wish there was a wired option).

I was not planning on selling the P1P, it all just unfolded this way as I had an ongoing ticket (still open today) with them. It overlapped with my A1 pre-order since my ticket has been open for 2 months. Because of the upcoming A1 I thought it was wise to leet it go now and I did.

That said, sorry to have to correct you, but for the sake of future readers or someone wanting to get this info later:

The P1P is the exact same machine as the X1, not a whole lot different mechanically. Things such as is the lidar sensor and the enclosure and other cosmetics things that do not interfere with print quality in regards to what is being discussed which are VFA and other resonance aberrations, provided you know what you are doing and calibrate your filaments.

This is not an entry level machine either, just a strip down X1, that is just built different for other reason none of those affecting the print quality. The stepper motors are the same in both as well as all themechanical parts in charge of printing. The lidar is also useless in the X1 when using the textured plate as it interferes with the reading so it would not be used in that case, rendering it a moot point and making it function just like the P series.

Interesting - this is the first I've ever heard of the X1C differing in terms of speed compensation. I don't ramp up my speeds that crazy so I guess I've not noticed

That was just an incorrect statement. No such thing except for the lidar.

I am shocked that Bambu support even keeps a 2 month ticket open. They are usually like if you don't provide us with an answer or update, we mark this as resolved and then the real "fun" happens with customer support. Lmao

FYI: New Bambu firmware dropped today: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/X1-X1C-AMS-firmware-release-history

Little bit of a drive, in NY. Friend took all the scraps already.

Experience of someone who is a total novice at printing, got the Bambu X1C before they released any other machines, as far as I’m concerned the thing is basically magic. My comparison is my friend’s prusa which he is constantly fiddling with for results that are no where near as good as my effortless prints.

Now could a pro with tons of knowledge and experience dial things in on a different machine and get excellent results, probably, but comparing a novice to a novice for occasional printing, the Bambu and the Prusa are night and day.

Also I should add that I did have a couple of drawn out experiences with Bambu customer service, a cracked AMS casing upon unboxing, and a broken LIDAR after a month or so. They did ask a lot of repetitive questions, which was time consuming, and replacing the LIDAR was a PITA, but it seemed like average to competent customer service for this day and age, not stellar but not a complete nightmare either.

I mainly print PLA, and I try to limit the complexity of the multi color to control waste, but having the AMS to print different things without having to go swap out a roll is sweet, and it stopping automatically if something does occasionally fail is a huge time saver. Not having to babysit it the way my buddy does with his prusa has enormous value to me. Could not be happier with my choice.

Looks like most of my tennis racquets when I was younger. For some reason, I could never get them to work the way they should either.

Huh, sure enough. When I was shopping I read a review that the P1P didn't have the vibration compensation. But it does seem that it does. I wonder if it might have been hobbled back when it first came out and added back in? Regardless, seems to be there now.

As far as the LIDAR, I very seldom use the textured plate so I do let it do it's extrusion tests and first layer inspection. The enclosure is also not just cosmetic. When printing materials that need better temperature stability or have risks of fumes, it performs a function. Also for me, the hardened nozzles and the AMS were features I wanted. So I guess it's really what you're trying to do with it.

Just to clarify for potential buyers, the hardened nozzles and AMS (and even the enclosure) can be added to P1P. LIDAR and the touchscreen become the only differences afaik.

Yea, the P1S was created as a middle point... from their website "Bambu Lab P1S - Fully enclosed body which improves print performance for advanced filaments."

And swapping out the hotends is pretty easy.

here is the new Bambu printer that will come out next

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So I bought the STLs for this because it was the same scale as some other RC toys I have 3D printed. The specs were in metric instead of freedom units, so I did not pay much attention. I spent a few weeks printing and then started putting it together. Well, this thing is waaaaay bigger than I thought, and I have no idea where it will be stored. Haha. I guess I will pay closer attention next time. The boom is 5' tall at the angle it sits now. Still printing out the details and track pieces yet. What a beast!

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It is getting really hard to justify the Prusa. However I believe neither of these can be enclosed, I know for sure the A1 cannot be (as per their wiki)

I got the P1P because I'm only printing PLA and don't need the enclosure, but realized I should have just spent the extra $100 for the S. The P1P looks like a car without bumpers on. I printed my own corners and covers for top of the sides, but that was $20 in PLA.

I've got a p1s for sale......

Coming from mostly creality printers, I'm used to an open printer.. makes it far easier to work on. When I had to replace the hotend on the X1C at work, it was a pain working through the door.

You don't have to keep the door on do you?

Yes...and it only opens out to 90 degrees, so its annoying if you have it stored on the right side of a workbench, against a wall. You can also take the glass off the top for easier access...it just sits there.

Any printer can be enclosed.. just stick it in a big box... or one of those ender tents or whatever. I built some elaborate contraptions before I had an enclosed printer, and was trying to do ABS.

It is in the printer manual. To not enclose the A1, perhaps due to certain limitations of the electronics

X has a better camera as well. These are all the reasons I only bought P1Ps, I didn’t care about any of the minimal difference. I got the early bird kit with the chamber fan, camera, and LED bar too, so if I want to tape some FedEx packages to mine and swap out for the hardened gears/end I’m basically an X1C

Now I feel better. Just figured you didn't have to put the door on if you didn't want. Must be a sensor or something needing the door closed?

Edit: Wait, JRCMLC's works with no door.

You could take it off...I do not think there are any switches. It just isnt something that is quick and easy which you would do on a whim...there are 4 screws holding it on. I run some materials with the door open, and it is fine. I just wish it did a full 180 degree swing because of where I have it docked.

I have 1600 hours on my X1C since mid-September...and the door is probably the only mild complaint I have. Compared to my old Ender 5, this printer is as close to 70's appliance reliability as I will probably ever see.

The door serves another function in my case - noise reduction. Since my printer sits directly behind me in my home office, I need it to be quiet enough when running for me to still be able to have web meetings and phone calls. I can certainly do such while printing with the door closed, but not with it open. BTW, this is with my filament profile mod implementing fan speed reduction to greatly decrease the noise levels when printing.

There is no sensor on the door, and you can print regardless of the door and/or top being opened or closed.

I waited to get into 3D printing until you could buy a kit or machine that was fairly well sorted. That meant (for me) the starting point was a Prusa Mk3. It was a great machine and produced high quality prints. I eventually had a couple print failures and started running into "new" problems that I assume were due to some funny things going on after the failures. My son now has it with a rebuilt Z axis and it seems to work well for him. I jumped into the Bambu world after that with an X1C combo (with AMS) and it has been quite solid and fast, fast, fast. Thankfully I've been mostly free from a need to work through their support team, it just seems to run whatever I throw at it. 8/10 would recommend.

Anyone in the group using FreeCad? I am thinking about trying it out. Sick of Fusion360 lately.

Solidworks has a pretty amazing deal for the 3dExpereience bundle at $9.99 a month (or $100/year)...as someone who uses a professional seat daily, and the 3dExperience license at home, it has excellent capabilities and does not feel stripped down for 99% of what most people are going to need it for. It also comes with an array of other software, like the shop floor NC programmer. I do not want to get into a Ford/Chevy pissing test, but I feel SW is much more intuitive than anything from Autodesk...and I have used both. It is definitely worth a try if you think you will use it enough to justify the license.

Thank You, I have considered SW, just never had anyone give any feedback on it.

Drafts are known to affect print quality so I'm happy to have the x1c enclosure. Have had much success with mine.. 2 years in and haven't had one clog.

I've been using solid works professionally for almost 20 years now so I'm biased. Dessault systems has their own shadiness as a company, but that's all software. There's a reason why solidworks is one of the default files extensions.. just look at McMaster 3d files, or the 3d files on pinballmakers.com

Solidworks is my go to and am still using a very old version now as it almost everything I want or need - only using old because no fees attached for month / year. I used Fusion in a work place in the past and not as user friendly compared to Solidworks. I was not aware of the $100 a year option - this is great as was not going to support a few grand a year option - solidworks is nice but not that nice.

found the software option

https://www.solidworks.com/solution/3dexperience-solidworks-makers

dang, $48usd a year is kind of a no brainer. I have a fusion subscription, but may pick this up as well.. do I need to learn another piece of software?

And looks awesome.

Was going to wait for the Bambu A1 to be announced but I found a local used K1 for $500, that included 13 rolls of filament. I jumped on that and if I hate it I can resell it and jump to something in the bambu range. Coming from a Fokoos Oding 5 F3 (what a name).

Nice, so like $150-$200 in filament?

you guys know that there are communities dedicated to 3d printers?? 95% of the discussion here has nothing to do with pinball. I thought this thread was about 3DP applications to pinball. which 3d printer is best or should I buy this printer is a really generic question that doesn't have much to do with pinball? (example of related appropriate question: "What material that I can print on my ___ would be best for printing things that get bashed by a pinball")

I just get excited when I see 100 new posts here thinking "oh maybe there's something cool discussion happening related to pinball or some new design". Nope.

I will be showing off my WOZ start button here soon. I had help from swinks for the actual button, but then I came up with the design. Once I get my .02 nozzle for my A1 Mini I will print one.

Nobody likes hall monitors, and not sure yelling to the sky will make a difference here. We are all pinball people who are also into 3D printing and most of us use our printers for pinball related makes. There is going to be crosstalk, especially in a community where many of us are familiar with others over the span of years instead of jumping onto another platform where we have to weigh the opinions of complete strangers.

"ignored user post" is all I see. Ahhh.

I think the thread started that way and slowly morphed into what it is today where there is a lot of discussion about printers and set up for how best to make what we want. I still post links in here when I make a shareable design for pinball, or even happen upon a good one that is freely available. It was a bit of a Bambu love fest for a bit there, but it seems to be back to shop talk again.

If you do have a question, ask it here. The thread is usually pretty helpful answering anything from pro to newbie questions

Why don't you go check those groups then. We have plenty of discussions about pinball stuff. But also - hey! It turns out some people into pinball are also wanting to get into 3D printing, and they'd like to ask some people they trust with the same concerns in common

Here is my attempt at a start button for my Wizard of Oz Emerald City LE Game, with the help from @swinks, who created the main body for me. I am basing this off the Emerald City Gate Doors as my inspiration. I still need to clean it up and will use translucent filament for the main body. Any feedback is appreciated.

Ken

WOZ_Button1 (resized).png

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looking good Ken

the only thing to be mindful of is the print orientation as while tempting to print flat down the low curve angles on top will show potential bad print lines - where as printing with supports vertically will produce a a overall cleaner print though the top will show print lines. That said a smaller nozzle and finer print this will look great printed.

You know there is a Pinside Bitch thread. I recommend it.

Thank you, on my 1st slicer attempt I realized this lol, then I re-oriented to vertical and it looks suoer clean. I have a smaller nozzle (0.02) on order so I can get a really nice detail print.