(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #26 Crash's Thingiverse Pinball Search Links Posted by Crash (3 years ago)

Post #35 Speaker lights for metal back box Stern Posted by Darscot (3 years ago)

Post #119 Pinball Button Remover Posted by Ashram56 (3 years ago)

Post #212 Swinks Shapeways Downloads Posted by swinks (3 years ago)

Post #682 Gravestone Cross Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #683 Power Supply Fan Adapter (Modern Stern) Posted by plasticbugs (2 years ago)

Post #1049 Ball holder Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #1696 Backbox Light Baffles Posted by John_I (2 years ago)

Post #1721 Spike 2 LED speaker panel Posted by dudah (2 years ago)

Post #1946 Target stabilizers Posted by bigguybbr (1 year ago)


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1 month later
#1865 1 year ago

sorry for the off topic question.
Been trying to define what my 1st printer should be and been watching lots of videos and talking to people, been reading here some and was wondering, what is your preferred 3d printer for pinball related stuff.
I want a good machine, that is supported by the manufacturer and can do it all, from pinball parts to mods/toys/etc.

I am currently leaning towards a resin printer, but... again... my knowledge on this topic isn't really speaking from a practical view.

#1886 1 year ago
Quoted from plasticbugs:

I went with resin as my first printer and regretted it. The prints aren't durable and it is SO MESSY (and toxic!). PLA can take a decent beating inside a pinball machine. For resin, you have to be so diligent about wearing gloves, eye goggles, (I would even recommend a respirator!) etc. It 100% belongs in a basement or garage and you should have good ventilation. Do not under any circumstances use a resin printer in your living space - I recommend the same for FDM printers. Even after carefully cleaning and curing my resin parts under UV, they were still sticky and I had to put them in the sun for the day.
I ultimately stopped using my resin printer and now only print on my Prusa Mini. Eventually I'd like to get a printer with a larger print volume.

is it really the toxic? what about those enclosed units?
I was told by someone else that resin only smells when the resin is of poor quality. Is this the case?
I am not questioning your advice, but more curious as to what kind of precautions are most people taking when using these.

3 months later
#2430 1 year ago

How do I buy a bambu printer?
Looks sold out.

#2443 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Just realized I never posted here this mod I designed a few months ago:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tron-disc-mod-open-source
Specifically 3D model for the ledring holder below the Tron disc is here (along with Arduino code):
https://github.com/Ashram56/Tron-Pinball-Disc-Mod
Strongly recommend to use Pinduino to drive the ledring

This is awesome!!
Looks really great!
Did you do the arduino component too?

#2463 1 year ago
Quoted from DropTarget:

FYI,
If anyone is interested in a nice, but somewhat limited orinter Microcenter has the Ender 2 Pro for $129.00

Such a price diff in between ender and for example the bamboo.
I am thinking of getting my first printer and feel like there is so much to learn… and so little time. That is why the bamoo was interesting, looked like an easy optio to start off

#2467 1 year ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Keep in mind every printer will need maintenance no matter the price. Every printer should work fine out of the box if you assemble it carefully (Chinese printers tend to be more assembled out of the box so there's less things to go wrong as you build them). The ender is very cheap for what you are getting. When I got into home 3d printing 6 years ago I bought a CTC for $600 (which was a clone of the $1200 flashforge, which was a clone of the $2400 makerbot2).
The barrier to entry is so cheap and low risk it's understandable why so many get into it. The one thing for everyone to keep in mind when considering getting into the hobby is how are you intending to use it. Nobody goes to home depot and spends $800 on a table saw with the thought of "well, if I buy one I'm sure I'll figure out a use for it". A 3d printer is also a tool and should be used as such. If you have no plan on how to create your own 3D models, it's going to become a doorstop quickly. It's only useful if you're able to create your own objects and execute them, not download other's models and hit print.

Yeah making my own is my plan. I want to make mods.
Where do I get info on software to design models?
Youtube?

#2470 1 year ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Youtube is a good start.
Tinkercad is simple but you end up with low detail polygons (IE not smooth surfaces).
You can start sculpting right now in your browser: https://stephaneginier.com/sculptgl
If you intend to make precise models (IE tight dimensions, geometry controlled by real world dimensions) I suggest you look into Fusion360.
I've seen some people make some pretty decent models in blender.

You really aren't using them to their full potential then. Sounds like Pin_Fandango wants to make his own mods anyway.

Thank you

#2477 1 year ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Just to note that if you intend to build mods, printing time and painting are the most critical. High quality mods are very long to print to increase quality, and even longer to paint. We're talking about a few hours of print usually.
If the mods are 'hidden' (like my Tron disc mod, for which only the led ring is visible, the 3d print is just a mount), then indeed you can reduce print time (to a certain extent)

Yes that part I had figured out.
I am after high quality models -or at least I hope - so time will be impacted.
The tron mod is on my list

Quoted from jalpert:

Don’t make your first printer a kickstarter printer. Literally any printer is better.
You need information, the Ender 3 isn’t my choice by a long shot, but at least you can google and get everything you need. So much information and so many resources exist for the Ender. (Or any printer that’s been around a while.)

The ender 2 pro seems like a great starting point.

#2526 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I don't like having the levelers all the way out in the back, I have a couple that have bent due to it, so I thought the support (rather than pieces of wood) would be nicer. I've got a "version 2" printing, with 30% infill, 5 wall thickness and higher lip on the center area. Hopefully no problems!

great idea.

3 months later
#2914 1 year ago

I just bought my first machine and I am waiting for it. Lots of things cooking for 2023
My first printer will be a bamboo 1P1

Very excited!

#2916 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

Nice choice. I just watched a video on it and while it doesn't have all of the bells and whistles of the carbon it should be pretty impressive regardless. Also it seems there is an upgrade path for most of the things it's missing so you can decide if those end up being important to you as you learn how everything works. Welcome to the club.

Thanks! Been thinking of doing for many months now and stumbled on the bamboos and joined a x1c club just to hear the chatter and I was very impressed by that machine.
To me it is currently too much for the xc1 so the 1p1 will be perfect for the reasons you just mentioned.

There are a ton of things I wanr to make, but primarily, like many here, being able build parts and other solutions.

Have a fee mods in mind and maybe who knows getting a little deeper into the mod world. Lots to learn.

So excited to soon be part of this club! And glad to see familiar names!

#2918 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

The best advice I can give is that once you are comfortable printing other people's parts spend a bit of time learning some CAD software. you don't need to be really good at it, just enough to modify other people's parts and to make your own simple parts and the usefulness of the printer will go up substantially.
I chose Fusion 360 and watched maybe 2 hours of tutorials on youtube and as a result of that tiny investment I've made hundreds of my own parts. You don't realize how powerful it is to make simple stuff that is custom designed for your specific circumstance until you start doing it. And sometimes you find someone else's part just needs a simple change to fit your situation and being able to do that is great.

Thank you and I agree.
I am doing this mostly for this reason as I often times think to myself this way but dont have the tools to get it done.
Learning to fix a pinball it is getting easier and easier, from the basic of doing mechanical repairs to building my own boards and dmd screens from scratch, this is the next logical step and will culminate with me restoring an entire machine.
It is a lot of fun.

You nailed it again and just wanted to add to what you said that the added freedom this gives me is invaluable. I like being able to create these things inhouse!

Love it!
What a great hobby this is, ha. Learned so much about a lot of things when repairing and working my own games.

#2920 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

I wish I could upvote this post a million times.
My 3D printer was originally meant as an educational tool for my kids, to use for school (homeschool) projects and for their robotics teams. And it did work okay for that (and still does for the ones who haven't gone off to college yet).
But what really unlocked the potential for the printer was me spending time learning Fusion 360 this summer. I have at least a dozen projects around the house that had been waiting for me to figure out one mechanical problem or another, and once I got even a little bit competent with Fusion 360 (which only took a few hours of practice, though even now I can still run into specific problems that all by themselves can take me hours to figure out, usually involving bugs in Fusion 360, where I need to figure out a workaround), I found task after task that the printer was helping me with.
Need to mount a security camera, but need a custom bracket to position the camera in the right place? 3D print it. Need to dress up the holes in the soffit where the CAT6 for the cameras comes out? 3D print it. Need some standoffs so you can zip-tie a PVC pipe to your deck post for your satellite Internet antenna? 3D print it. Need a perfectly-sized grommet for the satellite cable to go through a wall face plate? 3D print it. Need a hinge shim to help change the hang of an interior door so it will stop swinging closed and instead lay flat against the wall where you want it? 3D print it? Did the valve lever for your hose shutoff break? 3D print a new one.
That's just a small sampling of the designs I made so far. I love looking around the house and seeing one thing after another I was able to fix on my own, just by 3D printing the weird custom part that was the perfect solution for whatever problem I had.
It's like magic. You think of the thing you need. And then a few hours later, you're holding it in your hand. I cannot properly articulate just how incredibly satisfying that experience is.

Ha! Love it.
I think I am going to love 3d printing reallly!

#2927 1 year ago

I am getting way ahead of myself here and what I am asking might be laughable for someone more experienced so please excuse the ignorance.

but what kind of accuracy can be achieved when printing right angles, for example, if you were to print a mortice and tenon type of junction?

I am currently re-drawing files in illustrator (I know these won't work in the printer) that will be laser cut so I can assemble a tron mini arcade cabinet, but then I was thinking... why could not I just 3d print this cabinet?

Please remember I have zero experience with 3d printing, so go easy on me but if you could at least tell me know as to whether this or a similar design could be 3d printed, that would be great.

As you can see in the drawing attached, the pieces are meant to be laser cut in 2.3mm thick material (delrin and clear acrylic) and then assembled as in the other pictured. All the pieces interlock to each other and everything is then secured (although not necessary to keep it together) by a screw on the side.

Can this be 3d printed?

CBC414E7-21AE-45A5-B5B7-16E2AC0D91C4 (resized).jpegCBC414E7-21AE-45A5-B5B7-16E2AC0D91C4 (resized).jpegScreenshot 2022-11-25 at 4.06.10 PM (resized).pngScreenshot 2022-11-25 at 4.06.10 PM (resized).png
#2932 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Sure.
The laser cutter and 3D printers are using essentially the same stepper motor technology. There may be subtle differences in the accuracy and precision of each, but for the most part, you're looking at about the same performance, given the same budget.
3D printers have no trouble at all making square corners. The limitation here would be how well aligned the frame of the printer itself is, and barring some damage that occurs during shipping, or some error in assembly (if dealing with a kit), the rails and other pieces of the printer should be nice and square.
Harder is dealing with overhangs. In the case of the cabinet you're asking about, the biggest potential issue I see is that the cabinet involves a large void in the middle. This possibly could be handled okay with supports; you seem to have access the void, which will allow you to get in there with needle-nose pliers to pull the supports off the print, and as I've been finding with the latest PrusaSlicer version, it can do a very good job with supports, minimizing scarring.
But it can't eliminate scarring (i.e. texturing seen where the supports contact the actual designed print) completely. You might find that with the texture on the inside of the cabinet, you're okay with that. But in that specific example, you might find it make more sense to design it in two parts: one side of the cabinet along with all the horizontal elements holding the sides together, and then the other side of the cabinet.
That would likely avoid the need for supports at all. As far as attaching the sides go, you could stick with the mortised design you have, but obviously you would only need to mortise one of the side panels; the one with the horizontal elements would just be printed as a single piece, with the side of the cabinet face down on the build plate. For the other side panel, I would go with a half-depth mortise (recesses), which you could then use to align the pieces for gluing, but which would not be visible once the whole thing was assembled. That panel would also be printed with the outside face down on the build plate, obviating the need for supports, even with the recesses to accept tabs on the other part.
If you want to use a screw to hold things together, that would still work fine as well, instead of glue.
Of course, you could just print the whole thing as individual pieces identical to what you're laser cutting. But IMHO doing it that way negates a lot of the benefit of using a 3D printer.

Quoted from toyotaboy:

Can it be printed as one piece? Sure, if you don't mind the rough surfaces from the support.
Can it be printed just like that? (flat pieces put together), yes.. in fact sometimes I split my model into pieces that assemble separately because it eliminates support and can often reduce print time (you're mostly printing object, not support).
I 3d printed an arcade cabinet for street fighter (still has supports, but they are all inside)
The bridge mod for godzilla, the main bridge is 4 pieces, then the "ropes" is another 6 pieces, and then there's 2 pieces that slide down (necessary in order for the user to install)[quoted image]

Ha! I am already loving this thread and the people here and have not received my printer yet!! Lol

Thank you for your messages!! This is awesome.

I have lots of questions about these designs.

Is it ok if I put them here on the thread or would this clog the thread up? Notnsure it the thread is to share files or anything 3d related

#2941 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Um...both?
My two cents, worth what you paid for it...
I think this thread was probably originally meant mainly as a way to share designs. But it's clearly evolved into as much a place to discuss stuff as to just share.
Pinside is primarily a pinball-related forum, and I think it makes sense to try to keep things pinball-related. If you are working on pinball-related designs, I'd say that's 100% on-topic and would be fine in this thread. If/when this single thread turns out to not be able to accommodate discussion about 3D printing topics, I guess the community could work on figuring out a better approach, such as saying that new 3D-printing questions deserve their own threads in a specific subforum (e.g. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/modding-pinball or maybe https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tools-supplies), or maybe it'd be time to create a 3D printing-specific subforum (e.g. under the "Tech" subforum).
Extended discussions do kind of clog this thread up. But as far as I can tell from my short tenure here so far, it's been manageable. The hardest thing for me was to get caught up on the dozens of pages of posts that already existed when I first found the thread. But there's no requirement a person does that, and it's easy enough to search the thread if you know what you are looking for.
Bottom line: for now, I think this thread is the best that this site has for 3D printing stuff, so if you've got a question and answering it would contribute to your or someone else's ability to further their goals as a pinball hobbyist or professional, I'd say it is perfectly fine here. I would include in that general 3D printing questions, assuming your long-term goals involve using 3D printing to support your pinball habit.
All that said, I'll note that there are of course other web sites that are dedicated to 3D printing, and can probably handle your questions more efficiently, in more detail, or even more accurately. In many cases, a question that seems novel here, may well already have been asked and answered at one of the dedicated sites. Personally, my first go-to place for 3D printing questions would be places like https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/ or https://forum.prusa3d.com/. I think the Stack Exchange model works okay for relatively low-traffic stuff, and of course the Prusa forums are great for anyone with a Prusa printer, but may be a good resource for more general questions. In theory, the Autodesk Fusion 360 forums (https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360/ct-p/1234) should be useful for people trying to learn Fusion 360, but my experience there has been hit and miss. I find it's pretty good if the question I have is already answered and I'm just looking things up with a web search, but I haven't gotten much traction on actual questions I've posted.
There are probably lots of other options for 3D printing questions as well. You should definitely feel free to post questions here, but just be aware that you could get better results in many cases by targeting a broader, more experienced audience (not to say there aren't a few people here with a great deal of experience with 3D printing, but they are still few and far between, whereas you'd get dozens if not hundreds of such individuals reading your questions elsewhere).

thank you for this, and also for you sharing these links and I will check them out.

Quoted from Aurich:

A few things:
1. Illustrator files can work for 3D printing, in a sense. Export them to a format your modeling software (Fusion 360, TinkerCAD etc) can read and extrude them into having dimension. Be aware that Adobe are ... less than brilliant about how they've handled SVG export and it won't be the right size. Always check your dimensions if using an Illustrator SVG before extruding
2. 3D printing is going to be painfully slow compared to laser cutting for this particular application. For a handful maybe that doesn't matter, it's not a great production method in this case though
3. FDM printed cabinets aren't going to look as nice as laser cut ones, speaking as an owner of one of the original mini cabs. I'd consider it a downgrade personally without a lot of sanding and finish work
Laser cutting and 3D printing are both awesome. They compliment each other. Sometimes they can both tackle a problem. Usually one is going to be better than the other for a particular task.

Good points here, and I agree with you.
I just started tonight reading about different printing materials and I am having a good time discovering it all.

I agree on your points and particularly on the finish aspect. I do not think there is a material that can finish the top layer absolutely flat without any imperfections, is it?

#2946 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

I think it could be 3D printed, not quite as a whole cabinet though. You need some access inside to install the electronics. You also need a clear panel for the marquee and (rear marquee?) so the backlight can shine through the graphic so maybe you could keep these small pieces as clear acrylic. I would 3D print one side of the cabinet with the horizontal pieces (minus the 2 clear pieces) attached and 3D print the other side of the cabinet flat. Then you just slip in your electronics, 2 clear acrylic pieces, and assemble the final cabinet side piece. You can easily sand the top smooth if your print isn't left with a smooth enough surface to your liking. Sanding a part this small to improve edges or flat sides will take minimal time.

my thought here as well, was wondering how to install the screen once it is all printed so I presume there needs to be access somewhere.
I am still leaning towards printing as parts as if it was laser cut (but that is mostly ignorance talking at the moment).
For the time being, I will probably just laser cut it as I have people waiting on this and do not want to work on this forever, but once I have the machine and test a few things I might me able to even come up with a different design. Ashram56 has shared some ideas with me as well, thank you Sir.

and thanks everybody for your input. appreciate it.
So much to learn, it is pretty cool.

#2951 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

My

This would be easy to print in either separate pieces or a a complete unit. I will print one when i get home as a complete unit as a test.

Let me know what you find out.
Inserting the screen is the challenge.

#2990 1 year ago
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

Not mine but a Bambu group member on Facebook posted his Mecha Godzilla print on his X1 Carbon. I may have to make this into a topper.
[quoted image]

I have seen it!
It needs to go in the game and replace the magnet

3 weeks later
#3154 1 year ago

I got my p1p a few days ago and I am super happy!!
Recommend!

#3168 1 year ago
Quoted from hoby1:

Just finished up my MK3S+ kit last night.
It’s in its new home and running
[quoted image][quoted image]

I need a minimalistic enclosure for my printer.
Althought Inlike this one, it’s huge.

Any suggestions?

#3174 1 year ago
Quoted from prentice:

Loving this new P1P! Just works so easily.
Time to start finding cool pin-related prints.
[quoted image][quoted image]

really liking mine! just got it, never printed before.
I am hoping they make a good enclosure for it, I know you can print panels for it now but does not seem to seal it.

Also, what are the filaments brand that you wold recommend for it? Again I am totally new here, so this might be an ignorant question... but I noticed that for example on their website they do not sell PETG and the other filaments compatible with this printer... so makes me wonder, why would they not have the filaments that I need for this one? They do have lots of abs and pla, but not much else.

Should I buy my filament elsewhere?

#3182 1 year ago
Quoted from acedanger:

Thought I’d share some pics of my C3po esb build. Lots of work left to do. Fun hobby.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

this is freaking amazing!

#3202 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Made a Rush keychain since my game came without a goodie bag
[quoted image]

Love it!

#3206 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

Yeah I remember watching my 3d printer the first time and thinking it was akin to magic. The sound of the stepper motors was so foreign to me too, made for a very strange experience.
It wears off pretty fast though lol. Pretty normal for everything though, getting my first pinball machine was the same.
I am still amazed by how many people act surprised when I tell them I'm into 3d printing though. It definitely has not gone mainstream yet, there's a long way to go until the average home has one.

Thinking out loud…

Interesting really. I agree with you, it will be a while but it makes me think if it would ever happen, I mean, I think that not everybody is interested in tinkering as we are.

I think that curiosity has to strike you first and then the desire of making your own things. For that work though you also need the time and desire to learn.

Unless something changes in the 3d printing world where the solutions are provided to you but dont think that will ever happen… but if it is it will then not be as cheap as it currently is…

I am totallt hooked on 3d printing!

#3249 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thank you.

I printed the eSUN really thin and it looks ok. I’ll try again and maybe give that filament a try
The proof of concept looks pretty good. I got black filament from the nozzle in the red lenses so I'm reprinting them. Also, have a longer light rope coming to better fill in the lit areas[quoted image]

I love this, now I wish my CAD skills were that good to design my own stuff. This is the next thing I want to learn, something tells me I will be busy this year. lol

#3256 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

In other news.
I take a lot of machines to shows, not always mine.
A common frustration is misplaced bolts, or balls. These usually all get thrown together in the coinbox or a plastic bag, which can cause the balls to be scratched.
Seeing as I now have a 3D printer (Flashforge Adventurer 3) I decided to come up with a carry case for all of the bolts and balls.
The challenge was the fact that the print bed is only 150 x 150mm. So to come up with a design which fit 6 balls, 8 leg bolts and 2 back box locking bolts in was a challenge to say the least. In the end it took epotech's skill to come up with this.
It even has space for all of the leg bolt washers and (if not a Stern) a single long back box locking bolt. Holds together securely with magnets.
[quoted image]

This is great.

#3264 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

You trying to make leg spacers? I already have a file for ones I made at home for my early Stern and Bally machines that i can upload later today. The ones I print are undersized so you can not see them the and the legs look to be floating away from the cabinet surfaces similar to the new Sterns.
[quoted image]

awesome! would love to have that file please Sir
and what filament would you recommend? I can only print PETG at the moment due to no enclosure and the printer being in my officer 10 FT away from me.

#3266 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

TPU is soft and forgiving and has no smell. I found it really easy to print with

this is like a flexible material right? I am curious about this and would love to print shooter lane protectors and scoop protectors, I wonder if anybody has tried printing this sort of stuff before. I would love to stop buying Cliffys to protect all of this and the ability to print at home... priceless

Is TPU flexible like rubber?or is it hard but won't deform? I have no idea, excuse the ignorance. Thanks

#3269 1 year ago

ahh! I forgot about this mod but I do remember it now. I do not have a rush but I have a friend that does and he has it in, I did not care much about it then but I do remember the chat about the 3d printed part.

Now I want to make shooter lane protectors of this stuff!
What is the best TPU filament for this? I can see there are different hardness types?

#3273 1 year ago
Quoted from wolffcub:

I use PLA for almost everything.

other than structural integrity and hardness being weaker than other filaments, does PLA offer the same model durability? for example if I print something to be on the wall, in my climate control home, can I expect this place piece to shift or deform over time?

#3281 1 year ago

Thanks all for the feedback on Pla!

#3282 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Version one is complete. It’s using the final light source but I’d like to improve the print quality on a couple pieces. Not too shabby for my fist couple weeks of 3D printing.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I love this! Awesome.
I am totally hooked on 3d printing

#3285 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Nice work Xdetroit I have been making graffiti style led marquees lately that are a lot of fun
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

love it, how are these multicolour prints done. Is it 2 pieces inside each other or is it a multicolour single print?

#3319 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thank you. I originally thought about doing that too but the letters were just too far apart by design. I am using low profile LEDs adhered to the edges of the letters. I thought about individually addressing them but I think I may just statically lighting them. I have an option to run addressable behind the letters. I haven’t decided yet. You?

Lol thanks! I feel fortunate to be doing this well with just a few weeks of being in the hobby!
I’d be happy to share the STLs. This thing is huge though. The letters and enclosure are 25” wide

That is what I was thinking! geeat work.
I did dive into fusion and I am loving it, I have made things in there as well and I do well when I following courses online but I get a total mental block when I want the nmake my own.

#3331 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

The multi material addon looks interesting. I hate a lot of their marketing material though. Like how is the multi material box connected to the printer if it can auto switch spools? And how did they print that M lol?
They also appear to use renders in places you'd probably expect a real picture of a print, kind of annoying but I'm interested now.
[quoted image]

this looks cool, I would just buy the Bambu to be honest. I cannot say enough good things about my p1p, of course, I might be biased and also have ZERO experience to compare against. But it has been working so well for me out of the box that I would be skeptical of trying anything else for now.
I do not have the AMS system but I am in the FB group and I see a lot of good prints coming out of the AMS often.

#3336 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Do you have a Bambu? What type of stuff are you printing with it? One of the reasons I was ok with the Prusa was its “set and forget” reputation, which I can confirm it’s lived up to. I wonder if these newer companies have dialed in their reliability. If so, it’s an absolute no-brainer

I have started 3d printing less than 3 weeks ago and I did not do much other than installing filament to my p1p. I am printing PETG now like nobody's business. lol

#3341 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

almost ready to start printing. [quoted image]

anybody else sees this and you can hear the theme song, and Pamela? or is it just me and my unresolved teenage issues? lolol

#3423 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Great model and I'm sure your ventilation grid is fine, but figured I'd open it up a little (not really a risk of anything poking into the running fans). Besides, I just like hexagons.
[quoted image]

I need to learn how to do this asap. Fusion360 is a lot of fun.
I like what you did with the ventilation but i was wondering if this is needed at all, do you think the fan can be held with just two screws? Then you would not need the grid at all…

This is definitely a mod on my list!!!

#3429 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What I did was pretty simple in Tinkercad since I didn’t have source file. Just import STL, overlay cut shapes to remove existing grid and merge, create/import hex pattern, size and position accordingly, remove any excess material, fill any gaps, merge and export. Sounds like a lot, but I literally spent maybe 5 minutes doing it. Also, I could easily remove the grid altogether (see attached image) just leaving the open square with the four mounting positions remaining. Personally, I recommend something there just to prevent accidental damage to the fan from fingers, tools, etc., but certainly not required.
In looking at the model, I would print at 100% infill or at least add infill modifiers in the slicer around the six screw holes and do 100% infill there.
If you would like the model this way, I'm happy to send STL to creator to post with his other files on Thingiverse if he so chooses.
[quoted image]

thank you for the explanation!

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thank you for everyone's input regarding the Bambu. After watching countless videos, working with the slicer, reading countless threads in the support forum, asking a variety of questions and having them all answered, I just placed my order for the X1-Carbon Combo printer (includes AMS) as well as a textured plate and a high temp plate (just became available today).
I'm a diehard supporter of Prusa as my MK3S+ has been rock solid over the last few years, and was really wanting to purchase a XL when they came available. However, I do have some issues with the XL (price point fully loaded and space requirements), so the Bambu appears to be a perfect replacement for me given then I don't really need the giant build space. The X1 actually has more build area than the Prusa, so I will take advantage of the modest increase.

Congrats! I hope you love it. I think I need the XC model, but did not know enough about anything when I purchased the p1p and I was really going in blind, Now that I know better I would have certainly chosen the XC1 because it is enclosed and I worry about my health.
That said, I really like the p1p and I will now add this to it to enclose it:

https://clearviewplastic.com/products/bambu-labs-p1p-3d-printer-enclosure-kit-coming-soon?variant=43911774142702

I am still not sure how I am going to filter/scrub the air inside the enclosure, nor I am entirely sure if this enclosure is 'sealed' enough to protect me. I went ahead and shot them an email yesterday to ask, I am hoping they can send me some more information and I will report back. I like this design better than the other option called 'ARC' which is designed by a P1P user, the arc seems more intricate and convoluted than the option shown in my link. I do not want this to become a project on its own so I am going with the most efficient and simpler solution and I think that Clearview nailed it. I am not associated with them in any way shape or form, I am just giving out my thoughts and maybe someone else chan chime in as well and help me. I am open to suggestions.

I have also considered selling the P1P but I have already invested a lot of time in it and I like the simplicity of it, I also do not want to sell at a loss, I would rather keep it and just ADD a XC1 in the near future, but REALLY, I am just hoping that the enclosure I linked works just fine and I can continue to use the P1P.

I know there is a user made AIR scrubber I can add in the chamber. I just do not know what to do as this point, still learning it all. I do not fully regret buying the P1P, I think it is great. Now that I know better I just know the XC1 would have been perfect that is all.

#3468 1 year ago

Ad Alert!

I will be upgrading to XC1.

Therefore my P1P will be available for sale in 2-3 weeks.
I am in Canada! So Canadians buyers only please, Ottawa. Dont have the box to ship but might be willing to explore options if you need shipping.

Machine works awesome! And has less than 20 hours use now.

#3475 1 year ago

Well I will be selling a p1p in 2-3 weeks sooooooo hit me up. Lolol

#3478 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

I'm super tempted but I know I'll just want to upgrade to the carbon as well so I will resist.

It turned out amazing! Good work!

I just bought full 0.2 and 0.6 hardened nozzles (full assy)
Also comes with early bird package worth around $100+ I suspect (not installed yet)

Anyway. Sorry for the “ads” carry on

1 week later
#3568 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

Can you explain the process of slicing each color separately in a little more detail? Is each color a different STL and you arrange them in the slicer and tell it to print each one in order? I'm not quite sure how this works but I'm interested because the result looks good.

Me too!
Need to learn what the z hop is as well… lol

#3575 1 year ago

You guys are killing me here. Math? Z hop. I quit
Lol
Now seriously really cool stuff.
I want to learn more just didnt have the time, gotta dive deep into fusion but I am procrastinating until I finish a mod I am working on. I dont want to add project to the project pile, my adhd takes over and nothing gets done.

Almost done! Then I will unlock that space in my brain for more knowledge, now that I know what zhop is… lol good start

#3601 1 year ago

I am still debating selling the p1p and get the xc1 carbon, and the only thing stopping me is my knowledge or lack thereof about 3d printing in general. Really enjoying the p1p but I almost feel it is ok for now and I just should stick with it until I need more.
I am still printing with it, PETG, with the printer inside my office. Bought a PVOC meter to have a sense of what the air is like and it is actually not too bad when it is printing and PETG barely smells (I have to say PLA really bothers me)...

Anyway, not a rant, just sharing a thought. Thinking of getting the ARC for the P1P, and then print and make the BENTO box to filter the air inside the enclosure.

2 weeks later
#3712 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Bambu impressions so far:
I was having issues starting at the .08mm layer height with the .4 nozzle printing models that were intended for resin machines. I thought I could move some bases of the workload from my Saturns over to the X1c, but got several failures. Later I inspected the base I was trying to print and the bottom only touches in like 5% of the plate, and the rest is slightly raised. This was creating crazy supports that on my preview screen thought it was part of the normal print. Well....I'll find something else later more complicated to try out.
Now to my first official test. For one of my projects, I needed something I can articulate to get a pose/angle/etc and found this model that pretty much meets my needs perfectly. 60 pieces so far for the top half of the body. Print time and assembly with my Ender 3 would have been a pain in the ass. Elephant feet was always something that messed up fittings even with extensive calibration to that first layer or two. With Bambu, all the pieces were coming out extremely fast and accurate. Two interface layers for the support filament has worked out fantastic as well. Still havent tested to see if the sample Support W is easily water soluble, but with those 2 small contact points in that filament all the supports have been snapping off super easy.
As part of a second test, printing a keyboard case for my MISTer FPGA. One of the walls is a little thin and has broken off from the body at the point where theres an opening. Also when the pattern changes in a layer (like adding more surface or new windows), it does feel like theres a small layer shift in each of those transitions. I'll take photos of that later to see what can be done with it. Its the pieces in the back of the photo. Might be the filament itself, not sure. I'll make the same part in another roll tomorrow.
[quoted image]

Need to make a mecha-zilla mod similar to this… add some lights, some moving hands…
Fun times

#3716 1 year ago

I am very happy with the p1p.
Going to print the enclosure for it

1 month later
#4150 11 months ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I finally got around to printing this. I was hoping to get it done before the game arrives. It looks like the games going to beat it!
[quoted image]

Man I want to learn this stuff!
Do you or anyone, have a link to a tutorial for a novice like myself.

I am currently using a bambu lab p1p.

#4156 11 months ago

I would like to print the playfield supports for both maintenance and cleaning of the games. Of course I could also buy them or make my own file, but wondering if anybody has tried them. I cannot remember the name of the actual gizmo but it attaches to the side of the cabinet so you can then rest the playfield on top to gain access to the upper.

Also has anybody tried to print these:
https://backalleycreations.com/collections/ez-slide-brackets/products/ez-slide-slider-bracket

#4158 11 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Those are made out of Delrin, and for good reason. I would not try to print those. They seem like a bargain at $25.

I am not sure about that...I suspect a printer part will hold up well actually... no?

#4161 11 months ago
Quoted from koji:

I suspect it would be ok, I've been amazed at how strong drop targets are when printed in PLA.
However with something like this, it seems like the potential for damage here would not be worth the chance of the print potentially breaking over time / use / conditions.
Perhaps a similar guide could be fashioned by lowering the original metal bracket 1/4" and then having a 3D printed slip over it?

I’d prefer a one piece drop-in I think

#4165 11 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

You definitely do not was sliders made out of TPU. It is way too grippy.
If someone was hell bent on trying different material off their printer, why not just make "caps" that fit over the metal sliders to get a feel for friction differences and test wear properties? Or probably better a cap over the part on the playfield?
I think you will find all materials are inferior to Delrin for this application and that time spent playing around goes way beyond these $25 parts. I am still not convinced there is an actually a problem to solve with the metal solution that already is on the game.

I agree with this... stop being so logical, you are crushing my 3d printing dreams, lolol

7 months later
#5253 4 months ago

Anybody in Ottawa/CANADA looking for a bambu p1p.
Will sell mine for $800

#5255 4 months ago
Quoted from RyanStl:

What's retail there? I just got mine from Bambu Lab for $650 with shipping and tax. Haven't looked at the exchange though.

Price is in Cad.

#5258 4 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Sooo $580 USD?[quoted image]

No sir. No such deal here in Canada that I am aware of.
Please note taxes and shipping are not yet included in the price below.
It comes to about $950 Cad in my province.

Happy now?
Screenshot_20231107_233357_Samsung Internet (resized).jpgScreenshot_20231107_233357_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg

1 week later
#5293 4 months ago

they are pretty much doomed I think, blackberry, Nokia moment for the 3d printing world. They are simply too far behind now, impossible to catch up.

#5313 4 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Bambus black Friday info
[quoted image]

I came here to mention this. P1s seems like a really good deal.
I just bought the A1 as well, so I am contemplating adding a P1s but already have p1p. Thinking of just printing the ARC to enclose my p1p and call it a day.

#5315 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Was going to buy the A1 then this deal dropped...A1 is off the table now, hello P1s

the A1s is a lot cheaper still but if you need the enclosure the p1s is great, bigger too.

#5321 4 months ago
Quoted from prentice:

Does anyone know the cause and/or how to minimize the “turnaround roughness” that is visible at the edges, where the print head loops back in the other direction? Contrast slightly enhanced in photo to illustrate.
Asking here because this community is smaller and therefore nicer and more helpful than the “proper” sites.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

Looks like over extrusion.

#5345 4 months ago

there is a product used to remove graphics that takes mylar glue off, and most glues, in less than 30 seconds without it being dangerous for the surface.
It is often mentioned in the 2K clear coat thread and I think it might work for this application as well.
Rapid Remover:
https://expresssignproducts.com/fluids/277-12521-rapid-remover.html#/2113-volume-1gal

...'Rapid Remover is a non-toxic adhesive remover that breaks down and removes adhesives in as little as sixty seconds! Ideal for residue from decals and vinyl graphics. Spray it on, wait a few minutes, and easily wipe away stubborn adhesive with a plastic squeegee and paper towel. Not only is does Rapid Remover work fast, but it works without causing damage to most painted or bare metal surfaces. Shorten long, messy jobs with an easy, clean, and non-damaging removal. Rapid Remover contains no dangerous, paint-damaging chemicals and causes no health hazards...'

#5349 4 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

131 canadian dollars (96 us dollars)??
bag of flour = $3
bottle of alcohol = $4

It is a professional product for professional results. Using flour has no room in a professional environment, not to mention using flour on clear coat is abrasive.

Buy a court for a quarter of the price.

#5361 4 months ago

Anybody hear with a Bambu printing their PETG? I have not had much luck trying to dial it in and have been in discussions with support. They are looking into it but wanting to get other opinions.
That said, I am waiting on the A1 as well. Looks like a great little printer.

#5364 4 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No issues at all for me. Most of my PETG is with the textured plate. What plate are you using, what PETG, and what filament selection settings along with any modifications to the profile.
Making some assumptions about your issue being adhesion, but is it something else?

I am using a P1P with the textured plate. Adhesion has never been an issue once I learned how to wash it. I do not use anything on it and PETG sticks to it really well.

My issue is mostly ringing, I think the issue is this PETG though. I am on my second roll and I cannot find a setting to get rid of the artifacts. Support has recommended a myriad of different settings and I spent the last 2 months trying things as I intend to print the ARC enclosure but I want it to look good.
Dried filament, calibrated it as well as the printer. Tried A LOT of things.

I managed to get a much better finish before with overture petg in the past, but can't with Bambu Petg Basic. At this point I am blaming the printer. Not sure really.
Full disclosure, I have been printing for only 1 year.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/a4WLVFiuYffutKt68

#5366 4 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you tried OrcaSlicer and done a Calibration test?
Check out his PETG profiles, might help.
https://www.printables.com/model/455802-petg-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer

I have used orca yes but will try again I guess since I did nkt use the profile there. I did however calibretwd also using Orca.

#5377 4 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

I've been printing on bambu for almost a year, and I'm STILL blown away at the quality, speed and reliability. The $540 P1P is pretty tempting but my two printers seem to be keeping up.

Anybody here running a mk4 and a bambu side to side.
I lile the simplicity of the prusa platform but the mk4 seems to be a bit buggy in comparison as per my limited research.
Any first hand experience?

#5387 4 months ago

Great comments everyone, thanks for sharing.
I was asking because a friend gave me a mk3 (not sure which model is it) but it needs the extruder fully rebuilt.

I was looking at fixing it but it is almost seem like it isn't worth the cost? Considering the a1 is $300.

I also looked at upgrading the mk3 to mk4, but here in Canada that is like $900!!! I can get a full bambu printer.

Only have a p1p now and only thing that worries me is maintenance, it seems to be a lot more intricate than the prusa.
Maybe it's becaue the prusa is all exposed and easily accessible?

Not sure what to do with the mk3

#5394 4 months ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

If you want to keep it, send me a PM. I've got a spare Bondtech geared extruder for the Mk3, complete with hotend. I'll not use this, so its yours for free if you want it. PM me shipping details, and we'll figure out a way to get this up to Canada.

Very generous of you thank you
I will pm you what I have, maybe I don't need the whole extruder. I will send you a pic of the printer.
Thanks again!

#5407 4 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

One of our new printers arrived today. Let me know if you see an issue.
[quoted image]

good luck. Their support is hit and miss.

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Not hard to imagine they are uploading data from the prints (if not more from your network) and would want the majority of users to stay on Cloud

I have found my P1P randomly uploading LOG files overnight a few times. I am not sure if this is when/after submitting a ticket that support would 'request' this. I do not print anything important but those of you that do, I would be concerned.

#5418 4 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

No...but I'll sell you the other one with no door if you want....

Lol

#5423 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

2 days later Bambu asked for a picture of the broken glass, probably similar to the 5 I already sent them. Also asked for all my info, also probably similar to all the info I sent them. Going about like I figured it will, I'll get the replacement part, just have to wade through the horrible support for a while.

dealing with support at the moment as well, it is really bad.

1 week later
#5445 3 months ago

a new bambu A1 going to be announced on the 14th.
crazy.

I still want a Prusa though, I am kind of fed up with Bambu support or lack thereof. They are not much use and it is very frustrating getting anything fixed or replaced by them, unless the printer is brand new, they otherwise do not care.

#5453 3 months ago

I just put together my A1 mini today.
It is lightyears ahead in quality to my P1P. Not sure why

Gonna sell the P1P and going Prusa.

#5455 3 months ago
Quoted from koji:

Printers are like Pinball machines.. sometimes they play right away.. sometimes you need to spend some time experimenting and adjusting.

Not sure the VFAs and other aberrations generated by the belts can be removed. Support says 'it's normal', well, then I am not interested.
It is for sale $650 CAD in Ottawa if any of you want to fight it. lol

#5457 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Do you have any photos of the issues you are describing, or would you care to send me a file you had issues with and let me run one and see if I have the same results? Happy to help, just PM me.

I will take you on that.
Just for the sake of experimentation.

But to give u an idea.

20231207_182555 (resized).jpg20231207_182555 (resized).jpg20231207_182607 (resized).jpg20231207_182607 (resized).jpg20231207_182619 (resized).jpg20231207_182619 (resized).jpg
#5458 3 months ago

What blows my mind, is how nice are the prints coming off the A1 mini. No vfa.

A1 M vs P1P

Same model, same spool.

20231208_211330 (resized).jpg20231208_211330 (resized).jpg
#5463 3 months ago

P1P going out the door today. Do not have time to put up with Bambu's nonsense anymore.

#5474 3 months ago

I agree interesting indeed! thank you both for testing. I agree this machine works really well with PLA but that is 10% of what I print and because I want to do pretty pinball things, I can't afford these imperfections on taller prints.
The VFA are masked in the PETG print by the orange colour, unfortunately, all I need to print is 90% of the time black. lol.

I just sold the P1P and happy it's gone.

#5478 3 months ago

I have a ser of brand new - still packaged - ARC enclosure P1P panels that I bought off amazon.
These are laser cut.

PM me if anyone wants to build the ARC. $125 CAD

#5480 3 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You can always slowdown the print speed on the Bambu to be equivalent to whatever you are comparing to and mimic the print settings. Nothing says you have to print full throttle 100% of the time. Also, I printed with the stock default "generic" PETG filament profile only modified for fan noise/speed. I'm sure if I took the time to hone in a specific profile for the Prusa brand of filament the printer would do better. I noticed this same thing on my Prusa MK3 when I had it. The profiles for Prusament were dialed in 100% but for other filaments where I used the generic profiles, not so much. As I'm sure your are painfully aware, FDM 3D printing is far from plug-and-play at this point in time given all the variables, especially in materials. For me, everything I've printed is as good/better than what was achieved on my Prusa MK3S+. When I had both I did several comparison tests and honestly I thought I was getting the same quality but at a 2x to 4x multiple of the speed on the Bambu which is why I felt comfortable letting go of the Prusa.
I'm sure others have different experiences and priorities, but ultimately the speed and the multi-material ability of the Bambu along with its quality has been a game changer for me.

Different strokes for different folks, your needs might be different than mine. The proof is in the pudding, the printer does have VFA when printing at certain speeds and your sample in orange had them as well.

I understand your point and I am not saying this is a bad printer, it is just not a good printer for my needs.
I did my share of testing with the P1P, including several rolls of PETG from Bambu and other brands, was enough for me to stop chasing the golden goose. I followed up and shared all my testing with support, which they assured me that this is how the machine works and to 'mask' imperfections, the printer must print at certain speeds or it would otherwise resonate as shown earlier or differently (wavy pattern) when close to 200mm/s.

The speeds were sped up, slowed down, we are talking hours and hours and hours of testing before I decided to sell this printer. Too much time.
I am also not missing the incredible obnoxiously loud fans of the P series.

My experience was then compared to others on the forums and I did find many others with the same issues. The resonances and VFA are easier to mask on certain materials that can tolerate the fast printing the P series produce, but PETG is not one of them.

I have a small collection of different prints (a bunch of the the same part) that I will post pics as soon as I finish dealing in PETG in the A1, which prints quite well to be honest, fast, and really quietly as well. Definitely a better printer for my needs.
I will contemplate the A1 when it comes out as I do need a bigger footprint from time to time but I am keen on also adding a Mk4 for other reasons, including, being free from close software and else.

It is nice to have options I think.

#5483 3 months ago
Quoted from BMGfan:

In my opinion you guys are being really hard on Bambu.
These aren't meant to be production workhorses, they're consumer machines.
I'm really glad they work for you guys as production machines in some cases but that's just not what they are. You're paying McDonald's prices and expecting steak house service.
If it doesn't work for you so be it. But the deal with using consumer gear in a professional environment is trading time for capital cost.
There's a reason you don't have Stratysys gear
My X1C has been fantastic, its by far the easiest and best printing experience I've ever had. Finally my printer is a tool and not a hobby that sometimes gives me project parts.

I appreciate everyone's opinion but the fact remains, I spent countless hours with Bambu support and that does not really makes for a good experience when purchasing a product if at the end, you are still unsatisfied I think.

Within limits of course, I thought I was just expecting to get what was being advertised. Ultimately, I did not have a really good experience when going through what I mentioned earlier, which lead me to learn that what I was expecting was in fact, not possible. I would have liked that support was a bit more upfront about this rather than gaslighting me and making me clean the carbon rods countless times for no reason even though I had just done it also countless times.

I am not exaggerating, in one single conversation, I was told to clean the rods at least 5 times, which I did eery time it was requested, I followed every test they sent me, still, after I confirmed this process, I was told to do it again. It was a bizarre exchange and their support is for that reason, and many others, just terrible.

I did my fair share of testing as well, consulted the community and last I lost a fair amount of change selling the P1P. I did not buy it to sell it but here we are, so there is that.
To me this is just a tool, I do not wear the Prusa nor the Bambu shirt and a customer I just expect what is being advertised and I find Bambu to be a little bit dishonest with their marketing and support, and as of late, Prusa as well perhaps... How the Mk4 was marketed was not exactly transparent.

So am I a bit sour from my experience? I sure am, I just lost a printer and money but I also just bought another Bambu so there is that as well.
I am not terribly upset, just aware now that whenever I get one of these they might not perform as they were advertised and the X and P series are not the do all machines people make them up to be, in my experience of course.

#5488 3 months ago

Not that I want to keep beating this dead horse. Just had promised some pics.

A1 on top fresh off, with what I think is my 95% petg profile for that machine, more tuning tomorrow.

Below is the same file printed with p1p, same spool the dag before I sold it.

This is a leg protector free on printables

20231210_213528 (resized).jpg20231210_213528 (resized).jpg
#5504 3 months ago
Quoted from Jazman:

The P1P is their budget model on that platform. It doesn't have the same level of compensation as the X1C does, for example, with the higher print speeds. I do find it somewhat funny that you blast BambuLab but still ended up with the A1.
As others have said, these are all SOHO machines and each manufacturer and model will have its own quirks and idiosyncrasies. If you find something that does what you expect and are happy with it, then GREAT! Personally, I've got the X1C and have been thrilled with it (other than the WiFi... really wish there was a wired option).

I was not planning on selling the P1P, it all just unfolded this way as I had an ongoing ticket (still open today) with them. It overlapped with my A1 pre-order since my ticket has been open for 2 months. Because of the upcoming A1 I thought it was wise to leet it go now and I did.

That said, sorry to have to correct you, but for the sake of future readers or someone wanting to get this info later:

The P1P is the exact same machine as the X1, not a whole lot different mechanically. Things such as is the lidar sensor and the enclosure and other cosmetics things that do not interfere with print quality in regards to what is being discussed which are VFA and other resonance aberrations, provided you know what you are doing and calibrate your filaments.

This is not an entry level machine either, just a strip down X1, that is just built different for other reason none of those affecting the print quality. The stepper motors are the same in both as well as all themechanical parts in charge of printing. The lidar is also useless in the X1 when using the textured plate as it interferes with the reading so it would not be used in that case, rendering it a moot point and making it function just like the P series.

#5506 3 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Interesting - this is the first I've ever heard of the X1C differing in terms of speed compensation. I don't ramp up my speeds that crazy so I guess I've not noticed

That was just an incorrect statement. No such thing except for the lidar.

#5517 3 months ago

It is getting really hard to justify the Prusa. However I believe neither of these can be enclosed, I know for sure the A1 cannot be (as per their wiki)

Quoted from swinks:

here is the new Bambu printer that will come out next
[quoted image]

#5524 3 months ago
Quoted from koji:

Any printer can be enclosed.. just stick it in a big box... or one of those ender tents or whatever. I built some elaborate contraptions before I had an enclosed printer, and was trying to do ABS.

It is in the printer manual. To not enclose the A1, perhaps due to certain limitations of the electronics

#5579 3 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Here is a key tag (no backlighting) but flush front face that I did ( I did about 10 of them for my kids and their friends) was a instant hit.
Literally a 5 second job to colour and the finish is very nice.
Step files are actually a more accurate file and the professional printers like using Step files over STL's
[quoted image]

Love this

#5598 3 months ago

So what are your thoughts on Mk4 vs A1.

I just replaced the p1p with the a1 mini and the print quality is better for my use.
Wondering if the print quality of the Mk4 surpasses the A1

4 weeks later
#5908 74 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

The gold bambu plate is beyond excellent for me.

Quoted from DiabloRush:

It's now buried under several other connectors that were glued in. Here's the pic from the wiki. I tried a half-dozen ways of prying open the thin plastic clip, no joy.
I have to say, I remain totally unimpressed with the Bambu printers. Everyone raves about them. When I finally got mine operating, the prints were noticeably worse and not much faster than those I get off my Prusa Mk4. Serviceability on the Bambu is absolutely awful, completely contrary to the super-easy service on the Prusas. I just don't get why everyone loves Bambu? For those that have owned both Bambu and the Mk4, is my experience a one-off?
I'll be selling the X1 Carbon at a steep discount as soon as the last part (my dented side panel) comes in and I can get it back to as-delivered condition.
[quoted image]

Same experience with the P series. Junk. Sold it. Only good for Pla and ABS. Printing petg was horrible, aberrations resonance and all the issues. Difficult to service. Hated it.
The A1 mini has been a much better printer for me but would like a prusa, however can't justify its price when the A series costs 1/3. A prusa Mk4 in Canada is close to $2000 cad after taxes and shipping. A1 is $500 and combo 700-800

#5916 74 days ago

has anyone here ever tried printing a gasket/seal...
I need this part:
https://www.reliableparts.ca/product/inv_15143818

A bit of a stretch I know but just curious.

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