Shapeways printed flipper bats in nylon work as have had a set running for 18months. For game use though you need a custom post to attach it.

I also have a home printed flipper bat for shower taps as I can't get a particular locking piece for the fancy handles so what was temporary has been there for a year, lol

As some of the others have stated when you design something that is totally your design it is up to you what you do with it - share, sell, keep to your self.

If it is a copy of what someone else has done and they were the original - but it is just for you, that is ok, but if you share it or sell it - that is not cool.

Thingiverse likes you to attribute someone else if it is a variant of another person's design.

Some designs take alot of hours to get right and it sucks when someone copies your design and starts selling your design.

if that is your design and you selected that you are the design licensee then they should not be selling them - at the very least they should be getting your permission and offering some financial kickback

yes I make mods and parts as well and understand that approach, but generally pinball people like to buy a finished mods.
1. I have made about 350 snackbar mods and sold about 6 DIY kits
2. I designed and made available the whomobile kits and lucky to sell 8-10 kits but not a model to have free only because it took over 60 hours to design

nice design - look forward to seeing it finished, I had thought a while back about cutting out a apron for guardians set and make it look like the main spaceship cockpit

yes they can be purchased by those without printers in solid nylon but once you log in there is a download button and you can get the STL file to make yourself.

Enjoy

for prints like these I get my gear 3d printed at Shapeways or iMaterialise (each machine is worth over $1 million) and this particular design is 2 separate parts and solid filled requiring no supports and solid core.
- the translucent part is resin
- the black part is MJF - so not a hollow part and is solid nylon

the design is very accurate and presses together with the resin lettering going into the black letter spaces

IMG_5121 (resized).JPGIMG_5122 (resized).JPGscreen-capture-22 (resized).png

similar but different - yes industrial machines but only single color - all grey powder and MJF is a process of 0.1mm layers of nylon dust and then they spray a nylon glue onto parts to join, then the next 0.10mm layer of dust. All the none glued nylon acts as the support. Once finished the natural finish is the grey or I opt for black dyed for other parts - super accurate and smooth finish

Home printers are great for one offs and testing but when you are making stuff to sell I like to switch to solid and stable professional prints - but nearly everything is test printed at home first

for parts like the sign it is precise and snaps together firmly. I allow a 0.2mm difference between the 2 parts - no sanding, painting and looks good.

It is actually semi transparent resin and then they apply a light coating a semi-gloss clear to make it more transparent
or
for their dearer more detailed and more transparent option they apply a light coating of gloss clear

I once had a batch that was more cloudy and would not light up as well and questioned them and they determined that they missed the coating process. The coating process does increase the size fractionally which was important for my parts as 2 parts must interlock.

If 3d printed resin you can also sand and the polish the front and back edges.

If it is flat and all the letters joined why don't you just laser cut them???

shapeways setup / handling base fee per part is about $4-$5 plus the part. You could join a few together with a small 2 x 5mm sprue to bring the cost down.

PLA / PTEG would work fine.

as for design Mr_Tantrum concept is better but would extend the wings down a little more so it could be hit on the top and spin off the locking position.

resin will still crack and shatter from potential high impacts

I would be interested to hear how the resin part goes - I think it might fail as that bracket takes twisting and impacts through the coil..

I did a similar one for the 80's bally games

710x528_33410052_17651896_1607246963_1_0 (resized).png

probably because it is killing your cells - I joke

but becareful

awesome job Soulrider911 - love it

I don't use thingiverse but keep all my models at Shapeways and a small range as a free download. Just register a Shapeways account and then use this link and you will see my range of free models. Only took a few minutes to print up - not to be on sold but print and enjoy for yourself or a mate.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdownload&sort=newest

ignore the price that is if someone wants to buy one and that is mostly shapeways fee, it is a long part about 171mm long x 33mm wide x 20mm high. Share a picture if it worked for you.

under the description is a Download Product - which allows you to download the STL file.

great to hear, thanks for sharing

awesome good to see it is being used, great idea to put on the coin box

very cool....

which way did you print the pin ball holder - base down or on it's side. Make sure to rotate the part so prints base down.

not sure if the martian is this one, available through a asian supplier of pinball parts
http://www.lijunilluminations.com/product.asp?id=2097

bigguybbr

I first started with the foam at the back and then did the small wedges under the base of the target years ago to lean it forward which sort of worked for some people and not others so canned those.

The problem with Stern targets is they cheapened out on the target design as now dead straight so the target needs to be leaned forward about 2 degrees to be like a 90's Bally / Williams target. But to get a decent angle you start losing threads in the wood and pulling the target lower into the playfield.

Ideally the target needs to be lifted up about 2mm as normally the ball just hits the higher side of the rivet also contributing to air balls so lifting the target up about 2mm gets the ball just below the target rivet. But using wedges / shims will pull the target down still contributing to airballs.

So I then remade the metal target base with 2 degrees of angle and lifting the target up and solves 98-99% of airballs. Therefore redoing the target playfield bracket out of metal means no deformation, lifting the target up and tilting it forward reducing the airballs 98-99% of the time the other 1-2% of airballs comes from the pan angle of the target as a glancing hit to the side of the target can still create an airball. The pan angle can not be changed.

no they are not as effective as pull the target down, less thread into the wood and all the ball to hit the higher side of the target face rivet contributing more to airballs

Yes I have tested side by side and use to sell them with a 50 / 50 satisfaction rate for GB, with the metal brackets having a 99% satisfaction rate with the 1% airballs still coming from the pan angle on GB. The metal brackets are better and they are 3d printed metal and I am not saying the original stern brackets are bending ???.

I was just sharing my knowledge and experience from testing and using for a few years now of both so not sure where you getting the fact that I haven't tested.

Someone mentioned my name, so explained my experiences and then you made comment almost suggesting what am I doing here without testing and proof. Your comment - "This is a 3D printing thread, not sure why an innovative answer that has worked for a lot of people is being slighted without any real testing or proof."

I was doing the wedges at the back and under the stand 5 years ago as was a big problem for Ghostbusters. You can't do your style of wedges under the bracket on a GB as the pcb's go over the mount bolts and with wedges the bolts get awfully close to the pcb's.

After doing some slo-mo video I realised that putting wedges underneath moves the rivet down so when the ball hits square on to the target it hits the top side of the rivet inducing an airball so I then created the metal bracket with angle and raising the target up a few millimetres. Have you tried the alternate bracket before commenting.

In addition I have been doing 3d printing for 9 years and learnt alot of the years of what works and what is cheap and nasty and what is really good. I am not trying to steal sales from you just sharing my experiences and lessons learnt.

here is my free download files:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksdownload

here is my range of 3d printed parts:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinkspinball&sort=newest

do you know what software it is using, couldn't find any info....

question for you:
while I am a solidworks user, I am pretty sure it is for all the programs - are you trying to export a 3d shape into a dxf? if so it won't work as dxf is generated from a single layer of lines and not a 3d shape.

try creating a cad drawing by importing the 3d model and dropping on to the page as you 3 different views - top, bottom, side and then delete what you don't need and then you will have your dwg / dxf ready file.

or save as a IGES / STEP / CAM file from your 3D program / 3D model to create a 3D file but really depends what the company who is making the parts file preference is.

Are you getting Stainless steel cut or a playfield cut?

This machine is expensive but also and gives the same quality as Shapeways MJF grey which parts can be dyed to darker than the grey. This machine would pay itself off with your friends intended work.

https://formlabs.com/asia/3d-printers/fuse-1/

yeah that sounds like a real pain and weird how you can't save a dxf...

just in case your approach is by chance slightly off check this out as might help ????

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Converting-Fusion-360-to-DWG-or-DXF.html

topper available in Melbourne

https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/bally-judge-dredd-eagle-topper-03-8936/

made a servo testing rig - 3d printers are very handy.

I am not skilled in arduino, I was just curious how long 4 x AA batteries would last - 7200 actions with just 0.5v loss in the batteries - am happy.

Yes a product in the works.

thats awesome, well done

cool just joined and added my link

yeah I was tempted but there was not much talk about software and use with a Mac so held off.

Congrats

- the there is different pla's so really depends for strength comparison
- 0.2mm layers as opposed to 0.1mm layers - the 0.2mm will print heaps faster but your print lab will know all that.

- 80% fill should be fine as 100% will take a while
- your design print orientation will also play a big part of the part strength - eg say you designed a scaled down pinball leg and printed it vertical in 80-100% fill and then printed the same file horizontally with the same fill. then you stand the leg vertical and put force downwards and gave it a sideways shove the vertical printed will be weaker.

- save as a .stl
- for fit testing allow a variance of +- 0.2mm

nice work - what printer are using?

I have been wanting to create this for a while to help you guys that want to convert a Gen 1 Classic Stern steel bumper bracket to a more model bolt in kit by easily modifying a standard stern pop bumper bracket. The reason for doing this is the diameter of the modern stern pop bracket is approx 2.5mm larger in diameter than the hole in the playfield on a few games. So you either have to grind the pop bracket body away or remove the excess from you playfield which is quite permanent approach.

This is a jig that comes in 2 parts which you would 3D print up and then if you have access to a lathe (3 jaw) you can clamp the jig around the body and then centre it in the lathe and carefully machine the ring diameter down to approx 61mm diameter.

If anyone wants these jig parts just send me a pm with your email and then I can email them to you.

Print up at 0.2mm layers and about 40-50% fill in PLA or equivalent.
They are 16mm thick and you use 2 M4 bolts or imperial equivalent and 2 nuts to clamp the parts together. Bolts would be about 25-30mm long.

hope this helps.

jig 1 (resized).pngjig 2 (resized).png

finally took the plunge and upgraded my old printer with a X1C - set up yesterday and did a few test prints - dam fast

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yeah it is good, nice perfectly flat plate, prints great and so much faster than my old printer just in standard mode.

right on writing this the spool had a little moment and unspool a bit but it caught itself and stopped.

overall great, and got it mainly for proto-typing.

yeah the instructions are light....

- did you wash the plate with warm soaky water and dry off?
- then apply a layer of glue stick?

apparently on the Bambu User thread on Facebook, alot of people have issues with that file - mine worked fine..

depends on the print plate, temperature and printing filament - not always needed but for PLA low temp on the issued cold plate = glue stick

yes agree, don't like the cloud service approach

so I am totally new to multi-colour and bambu - just to clarify if you disable the prime tower it just turns the infill multiple colours to at least make use of the colour purging - yes....???

thanks for the explanation - much appreciated

experienced a failed yesterday on the new X1 printing a poop chute thing - 6hr print with 5mm brim but still lifted up at one corner and no notification but was about 13mm / 1/2" into the print - no alerts or detection

moved the job a little and smaller brim and printed with no dramas

That was the advantage of the camera as went to the beach for a walk and chill and check the print with the phone and the camera showed lifting so I stopped the print so was helpful.

where the lift was yes - if on the opposite definitely not

cool model

I am still on a old version of solidworks, have used fusion in the past for a job and the one benefit is cnc machining otherwise prefer solidworks (but can't afford to buy it anymore so have a old computer running an old version.

I did some for the minipin for a few pinballs

here is another example what I did 10 years ago now

Stern - AC:DC - Bell Cover Black (resized).JPG

no but a real old version of solidworks

all it is, is a series of curves that taper off to the points and recess 0.5-0.75mm

well that was disappointing, uses more desk space for smaller parts, can't do as many materials, more restrictions to settings

what would of been cool is if it could have blended bambu filament to create custom colours - will stick with my X1C

it wasn't available for a while so I had a few versions available including the guide brackets, Pinball Life has reproductions now but they are like the originals which have a weakness in the design or if the guides are missing will twist more and lead to breaks

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/tech/mechanical-parts?tag=swinksc-972-3parts&sort=pricelh

yes I have down that - 2 version
- regular
- 1mm higher for clearcoated playfield / hardtop playfield

send me your email address via pm

just sent you a message with a model sketch up

totally agree not to give up but sometimes people need a little guidance on the best way to draw,

you could actually draw the button in 2 steps:
- draw the side profile with your thickness and ring notch
- and then rotate around the centre axis

and then just add the last small notch.

The step with adding shell is very handy but not needed in this case

I have a Bambu X1C and just started dabbling in the multicolour prints and came up with a technique to do this.

What are other people's techniques ? - I use the Step file approach.

here is the new Bambu printer that will come out next

408829194_2013891135647518_8679773143106424872_n (resized).jpg

Solidworks is my go to and am still using a very old version now as it almost everything I want or need - only using old because no fees attached for month / year. I used Fusion in a work place in the past and not as user friendly compared to Solidworks. I was not aware of the $100 a year option - this is great as was not going to support a few grand a year option - solidworks is nice but not that nice.

found the software option

https://www.solidworks.com/solution/3dexperience-solidworks-makers

looking good Ken

the only thing to be mindful of is the print orientation as while tempting to print flat down the low curve angles on top will show potential bad print lines - where as printing with supports vertically will produce a a overall cleaner print though the top will show print lines. That said a smaller nozzle and finer print this will look great printed.

I was having alot of trouble trying to set up a multi-colour print in Bambu labs and since I am running an older version of solidworks I just couldn't create the file type needed.

I watched various videos and it seems that it is more a fusion design approach that I could not do.

So in my experimentation I worked out my technique for say for a 2 colour print, hopefully this helps others as you can do up to 16 different colours. You do not have to assemble in Bambu Labs software but their software knows there are multiple parts and it is a fairly simple approach.

1 - design my 2 parts in solidworks as 2 different parts

2 - create a assembly drawing joining the 2 parts - have the parts neat with no gaps and then save as the assembly drawing to keep and then export as a step file

3 - Now open your Bambu software and follow these Screenshot Steps
- Screenshot 1 - drop in the Step file
1 (resized).png


- Screenshot 2 - select Objects
2 (resized).png


- Screenshot 3 - select the File Name and it will open up the mulitple parts with numbers next to them
3 (resized).png


- Screenshot 4 - select a number and change - this number corresponds to the number of the roll in your AMS
4 (resized).png


- Screenshot 5 - now select your object and then select the rotate to the desired face and then select the face and the part will rotate
5 (resized).png


- Screenshot 6 - now select Global to go back to the original view
6 (resized).png


- Screenshot 7 - change the plate to textured if you want the 2 colours to blend in nicely.
7 (resized).png

.

I wanted the letters to light up and be textured and using the above approach achieved a great result - here is my "bombs ready" and that is using the panel 0.8mm thick and could go to 0.6mm. everything is flush with no difference in height (found no need for it)

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yes this definitely solves this issue as the black outer and letters in the front panel is all 0.8mm thick and this approach is literally a 5 second job per part

Here is a key tag (no backlighting) but flush front face that I did ( I did about 10 of them for my kids and their friends) was a instant hit.

Literally a 5 second job to colour and the finish is very nice.

Step files are actually a more accurate file and the professional printers like using Step files over STL's
92F20289-3D3D-4488-9AC5-69B80180E3C2_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

I do use illustrator and then CAD:
- design in illustrator the full design - say the letters and then the outer design and then export as a single dxf
- go into the cad program and save as inner and then outer - then for the inner I turn the outer lines to construction lines (to hide) and then extrude say by 3mm - then for the outer design I extrude that design 3mm
- then start a assembly drawing and import both inner and out and assemble - with no gaps or steps
- then save as a step file

hope that helps others

looks good, nice work

I tried this approach and with older software it did not work for me, hence coming up with another way to do it.

yeah I worked that out with the fill / paint but say for the Bombs Ready sample I would have to select 11 surfaces, selecting one of the parts under objects is just so easy, especially when I have drawn / designed the part in a particular way.

but agree if assigning different colours that is a great feature as well

I just to thought to share my solution mainly for bringing in a file with multiple parts - was having all sorts of problems - was just painful, so if the step file approach helps anyone then awesome

Screen Shot 2023-12-14 at 2.28.03 pm (resized).png

design and print a reverse of the part and then make a silicon part with the 3d printed mold

alternatively TPU and also very easy part to draw up, just some dimensions (millimetres) and 10 minutes - would be happy to do that for you.

scanning is not advised as not super accurate and the cleanup and modelling - just draw from scratch

mocked up a rough design and awaiting dimensions to finalise for you.

Flappy Gate (resized).png

yeah I was wondering what the difference is as well

so just to get my head around it - the flap pad actually has a top and bottom brim / rim and the one in your hand has lost almost the full brim / rim on the bottom side ?

no worries, still very doable

finally had time to finish a little project that I have been wanting to do - heated thread insert tool

D4F43669-B3F3-4051-8BCE-A9AEB55E18AE_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

I got the dimensions off kingpinman and completed the model today and created a STL.

I did a test print at 30 degrees off vertical and manually set the supports to the 2 bottom edges only though the print is in PLA with a brim. I am hoping that TPU will print fine at that angle though never printed with TPU so look forward to how it was made.

Maybe someone can print a TPU sample for kingpinman to test fit and then I can make some amendments and then he can get a few printed to save his game.

Flap Gate 2 (resized).pngFlap Gate 3 (resized).pngflap gate 1 (resized).pngScreen Shot 2024-01-01 at 5.04.21 pm (resized).png3DAFE927-592F-4940-829F-0CE297355539_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

I like to help people along the way while also doing mods and replacement parts and then add to the range offered to people.

The reason I tested at the angle (which was manually set) was it is an absolute minimum supports needed.

If you drop the file in there and let bambu select placement it does put it flat but means alot more support under the rim, but with a textured plate (if TPU can be printed with a textured plate) flat would be better and prints a little faster than the angled print.

Yes the groove needs to be 6.5mm deep to sit within the metal plate and if you reduce the outer edge there will be risk of the flap popping out. I also am trying to keep the part original reproduction in design.

hope that answers your questions

Screen Shot 2024-01-01 at 7.26.20 pm (resized).png

Screen Shot 2024-01-01 at 7.27.50 pm (resized).png

after having a little think - I will try to reduce just this edge (red arrow identifying the rim) by half as this rim is only needed in theory when the flap is pushed up, where as when the game is played the ball / puck is pushing down on the surface that is printed to the plate and therefore should not effect a smaller rim on the bottom side. I will also thicken up the reduced rim a fraction but then add a ever so slight bevel so in theory minor to no support is needed. Will do that tomorrow making it potentially easier for someone to print in TPU.

Screen Shot 2024-01-01 at 7.26.20 pm copy (resized).png

that is one way to do it but sometimes to lessen cleanup time over print time is more efficient in the end to print at a angle.

in bambu labs there is a rotate manually or place print up on a surface and even select a edge to support over what the program wants to do - but you need to go into the support setting and select manual support and not auto.

thanks for the offer, I am sending files to kingpinman in the next 15minutes and then Tim can send the files to who ever he wishes to get a tester of each done and then we can finalise the design and then he can get a batch printed.

here is a v2 of the design
- bottom rim (top when placed on the printer bed) showing 50% reduction in the width of the ledge
- slight thicken up and then slight 10 degree chamfer so it prints close to the body and each layer steps out progressively
- and processed in bambu labs showing no supports needed for the v2.

Screen Shot 2024-01-02 at 7.09.14 am (resized).pngScreen Shot 2024-01-02 at 7.09.03 am (resized).pngScreen Shot 2024-01-02 at 7.09.46 am (resized).png

yes, fair point

I typically design for SLS / MJF printing so the limitations are less but cost is more but is generally excellent quality.

in this case for this part - adding a small chamfer to that edge is a edge once installed no one will ever see it if the print is flat. The alternative is to drop the layers to 0.1mm height. The design will lose function with say a 45 degree chamfer - yes avoids noticeable stepping but allows the part to press out too easily and then the lip parts needs to then be thicker - there often is a compromise somewhere when it comes to low angles.

reducing the brim and chamfering took 12minutes off the time and took 3.5grams off at 15% for PLA

I haven't worked with TPU - does it need to go to a higher temp to be laid down and printed slower ?

above aside the bambu labs is great for proto-typing but just can't print myself to making and selling mods. I get these all professionally printed in MJF PA12 solid nylon.

the fire houses at the back are raw and the ones at the front got their first coat of grey today.

3A8E8D8E-9ECE-45D3-BAD5-3152F63C3C72_1_105_c (resized).jpeg

awesome work / support jrcmlc

I am wondering if it better to 3d print a 2 part mold and make silicon flap gates

looks good and great tip with the TPU as support as well

good tips is what helps us all

awesome great to hear - love it when a part fits first time

now you just have to get a bunch more and collectively we saved another older game

what are you upgrading to ?

nice, have a x1-c and very happy

Alot of people do it with multiple stl files but from what I have determined you need to do it fusion and in a particular way.

I worked out another way to do:
- import a design in your cad program with the say the lettering and outer barrier as one file
- save the lettering as one model file
- save the outer barrier as another model file
- the go back to your lettering if it is the one being back lit and extrude just 0.8 - 1mm and save - no offsets on the lettering
- the go back to your barrier file and extrude a little thicker if not being backlit and then add the set backs on the sides so you can house lighting - no offsets on the lettering
- then start an assembly drawing and import the 2 models together and save BUT trick is also save as a STEP file as programs like Bambu like STEP files.
- then head into say Bambu and go into objects and select the lettering of the STEP design and say select white and then select the barrier and change to black (meaning you need a AMS and those coloured rolls).
- then put in a textured plate and place your design face down and print.

head to this post for the bambu steps
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/112#post-7917638

so samples here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/112#post-7917646

Recently I did my version of the pinjacks but then thought why not just one jack to lift up at the centre of the game to adjust around any type of furniture sliders / pin footies. Also no modifying of the jacks but requires a few bolts, 20 x 20mm maker aluminum profile and printed parts

this is a breeze now and so quick and portable

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literally finished the proto today - will sort something out soon

make sure to turn the machine and program off and then restart if you haven't already and the quality and new settings will kick in

looks good, if parts are interlocking factor a 0.2mm size offset to allow for slight size difference

yeah if you have say a round hole that is 40mm make the insert 39.8mm and the fit should be pretty good - just allows for slight variances. I do this for even the professional printed parts

came across this morning

https://makerworld.com/en/models/206853?fbclid=IwAR2VK2K8agDCm4lkuASPr9JVbypez699hC_golJotflgCklOBjttZ_8C3mc#profileId-226978

Screen Shot 2024-03-08 at 7.38.14 am (resized).png

They look nice - how big are they and are they printed on a Bambu ?