(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

2 years ago


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    There are 1,354 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 28.
    #651 7 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Perhaps the fan at the hot end is an issue? Never printed ABS, so just a wag.

    Possibly-cooling too much perhaps? I did get slightly better results when I dialed back the print speed, so I think I just have to keep experimenting. Either that or stick to PLA-that's been working fine so far.

    #652 7 months ago
    Quoted from ChrisBardon:

    I've actually been trying to figure out ABS printing for a while now. I've got a snapmaker 2.0 A350 with enclosure, and I was printing ABS at 240 nozzle, 80 bed. The problem wasn't the first layer adhesion, but adhesion between layers. The part I was printing would peel apart pretty easily. Trying to take nozzle temperature even higher resulted in a mess (spool says the temp range is up to 240). Is there a chance that this is just a bad roll of filament?

    Make sure the nozzle cooling fan is turned off.

    #653 7 months ago

    I think I'm about done with this side (besides painting). On to the t-rex on the other side.

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #654 7 months ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    What’s the backside look like?

    I'm pretty sure it's flat. I was going to get my Freddy out of storage this weeekend, but plans changed. I'll post pictures when I can.

    #655 7 months ago

    Showing off my new pop caps that my son printed for me!

    20210424_112647 (resized).jpg
    #656 7 months ago

    Here is the link. Only used 2 of the parts listed. And switched transparent blue for white.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2896159

    #657 7 months ago

    Decide to make something to cover the plastic raptor on the left side of my JP Pro. Simply slips over the existing plastic.

    Once I sort out the 3D print, I'll adds shrubs and paint to hide the part the slips over the plastic raptor. The sides are fence posts that I can slip some wire into and make it look like the raptor broke thru.

    pasted_image (resized).png
    #658 7 months ago

    Call me crazy but wouldn't these be a piece of cake to 3d print for Metallica? I've thought about creating them in my program with a ring at the bottom so they can be screwed in under the lane screw.

    SmartSelect_20210427-005330_DuckDuckGo (resized).jpg
    #659 7 months ago
    Quoted from Viggin900:

    Call me crazy but wouldn't these be a piece of cake to 3d print for Metallica? I've thought about creating them in my program with a ring at the bottom so they can be screwed in under the lane screw.
    [quoted image]

    Does the ball ever hit them?

    #660 7 months ago
    Quoted from Viggin900:

    Call me crazy but wouldn't these be a piece of cake to 3d print for Metallica? I've thought about creating them in my program with a ring at the bottom so they can be screwed in under the lane screw.
    [quoted image]

    We are actually working on a 3D cross mod that lights up, interactive with the lane lights. Might have something to show over the weekend.

    #661 7 months ago

    My family is terrible at keeping secrets.... so I now know I'm getting the Ender 3 v2 for my birthday next week. I'm sure I'll have a million questions!

    #662 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    My family is terrible at keeping secrets.... so I now know I'm getting the Ender 3 v2 for my birthday next week. I'm sure I'll have a million questions!

    Did they get you some filament too?

    #663 7 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Did they get you some filament too?

    Yup - 1kg of hatchbox pla I believe. That's how it started - daughter said it wasn't a printer, it just says 1kg. Lol

    #664 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Yup - 1kg of hatchbox pla I believe. That's how it started - daughter said it wasn't a printer, it just says 1kg. Lol

    Good deal, wouldn't be much fun to play around with w/o filament.

    I'm guessing you know about Thingiverse (stl files) and Cura (slicer), given you've probably been reading this thread. Plenty of other options too.

    #665 7 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    Good deal, wouldn't be much fun to play around with w/o filament.
    I'm guessing you know about Thingiverse (stl files) and Cura (slicer), given you've probably been reading this thread. Plenty of other options too.

    Yup, already downloaded that last week and started playing with it a little. My understanding is to simply slice in Cura, copy the resulting file to the SD card, plug that into the printer, select it, and cross my fingers?

    #666 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Yup, already downloaded that last week and started playing with it a little. My understanding is to simply slice in Cura, copy the resulting file to the SD card, plug that into the printer, select it, and cross my fingers?

    In a nut shell, yep. Cura may have default setting for the V2, I know they have it for the original Ender 3 version (which I have, with upgrades).

    "The devil is in the details" tho (i.e. supports, build plate adhesion, speed, infill, etc., etc.). It will take awhile to sort out all out all the Cura options and many times is varies, depending on the print.

    Like everyone, you'll muddle your way thru it and a figure it out. At some point, lookup the BLTouch (autoleveling), I think the V2 directly supports it - it is sure nice to not have to worry about tinkering around with leveling.

    And make sure thermal protection is enabled (on the Ender, not Cura), helps prevent a fire if one of the thermistors fails.

    Here's a good article on Cura supports: https://all3dp.com/2/cura-support-settings-optimize-your-supports/

    #667 7 months ago

    Personally, I switched from Cura to Slic3r (now Prusa Slicer) well over a year ago and have never looked back. Once you learn it, I find it much simpler to work in, and it has all the features you need/want. Even though it is now developed and supported by Prusa, it is still free and works with all printer brands.

    #668 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Yup, already downloaded that last week and started playing with it a little. My understanding is to simply slice in Cura, copy the resulting file to the SD card, plug that into the printer, select it, and cross my fingers?

    And don't forget pulling your hair out, screaming, throwing things across the room, and ordering new parts. lol It's all part of the fun and Know you will eventually come to peace with the learning curve but Rarely overcome it! Expect a few eye opening results in the beginning.

    gfhgf (resized).jpg
    #669 7 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Personally, I switched from Cura to Slic3r (now Prusa Slicer) well over a year ago and have never looked back. Once you learn it, I find it much simpler to work in, and it has all the features you need/want. Even though it is now developed and supported by Prusa, it is still free and works with all printer brands.

    I like Slicer too and used it a bunch. But for some reason, I experienced issues with small circles and adhesion, and Cura printed fine. Never did figure that out, but I sure whished I could have slowed down just the circles in Slicer.

    Seems seems like all slicers have their strengths and weaknesses.

    #670 7 months ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    And don't forget pulling your hair out, screaming, throwing things across the room, and ordering new parts. lol It's all part of the fun and Know you will eventually come to peace with the learning curve but Rarely overcome it! Expect a few eye opening results in the beginning.
    [quoted image]

    A big Raft is your friend at times, LOL.

    I had that happen just the other day, first time in a long time.

    #671 7 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    A big Raft is your friend at times, LOL.
    I had that happen just the other day, first time in a long time.

    Point made. You just never know. Just can't let it upset your efforts. Yes, IF I am planning a job that is 20 ish hours a raft is a must safety net. Otherwise I like to roll the dice...

    #672 7 months ago
    Quoted from Yelobird:

    Point made. You just never know. Just can't let it upset your efforts. Yes, IF I am planning a job that is 20 ish hours a raft is a must safety net. Otherwise I like to roll the dice...

    Since I brought up Rafts, I sure wish I could just print 1-2 layers. Cura is 3 minimum, and I think 4 is the default. That can easily add +1hr print time on bigger prints, and gobbles up filament.

    #673 7 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    A big Raft is your friend at times, LOL.
    I had that happen just the other day, first time in a long time.

    What's a Raft? That's a term I haven't run across in my research!

    #674 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    What's a Raft? That's a term I haven't run across in my research!

    There are many 3D printing glossaries online (here are just a couple):

    https://3dinsider.com/3d-printing-glossary

    https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/definitive-3d-printing-glossary

    #675 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    What's a Raft? That's a term I haven't run across in my research!

    Considering the following link I am certain you will find it useful in your new hobby.

    https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

    #676 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    What's a Raft? That's a term I haven't run across in my research!

    It's like a 'base' layer(s), usually bigger than the print. It's meant to help w/adhesion. It's highlighted below. Really helpful on smaller prints.

    There's also 'Skirt' and "Brim' types too. Raft is under the entire print, and extends out the sides (usually).

    pasted_image (resized).png

    #677 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Yup - 1kg of hatchbox pla I believe. That's how it started - daughter said it wasn't a printer, it just says 1kg. Lol

    I think I read that the diameter of the spool on Hatchbox is smaller than the filament holder for the Ender 3. Someone else may be able to confirm. So, a new holder may be your first mod. I buy Sunlu PLA, and the spool fits fine on my E3 Pro.

    #678 7 months ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I think I read that the diameter of the spool on Hatchbox is smaller than the filament holder for the Ender 3. Someone else may be able to confirm. So, a new holder may be your first mod. I buy Sunlu PLA, and the spool fits fine on my E3 Pro.

    Thanks! I ordered a spool of that from Amazon - lowest price it's ever been according to CamelCamelCamel. Figured I can try 'em both and see what I like. amazon.com link »

    #679 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Thanks! I ordered a spool of that from Amazon - lowest price it's ever been according to CamelCamelCamel. Figured I can try 'em both and see what I like. amazon.com link »

    Ideally, bag up any open filament when not using (but whatever is on the printer - I tend to leave in there), it will absorb moisture and can cause printing issues. And toss in some of the moisture absorbing packets. I don't think ziplock bags are great for this, but must better than nothing. You can supposedly dry out in an oven at some low temp, never tried it tho.

    I'm far from careful with the PLA and storage, and I usually still get good prints with older material. Dumb luck, I guess.

    #680 7 months ago
    Quoted from Viggin900:

    Call me crazy but wouldn't these be a piece of cake to 3d print for Metallica? I've thought about creating them in my program with a ring at the bottom so they can be screwed in under the lane screw.
    [quoted image]

    Made these back in 9-2020.

    Quoted from Lermods:

    We are actually working on a 3D cross mod that lights up, interactive with the lane lights. Might have something to show over the weekend.

    20200913_181947 (resized).jpg20200913_223954 (resized).jpg20200913_223959 (resized).jpg
    #681 7 months ago
    Quoted from Fezmid:

    Thanks! I ordered a spool of that from Amazon - lowest price it's ever been according to CamelCamelCamel. Figured I can try 'em both and see what I like. amazon.com link »

    check out this post from toyotaboy
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/8#post-6131809

    #682 7 months ago

    here is my gravestone cross I did years ago
    https://www.shapeways.com/product/9FSM4GNKL/pinball-stern-metallica-gravestone

    when you are a shapeways member a Download button will appear

    has a rear mount point and hollow so you can light it up

    cross (resized).jpg

    cross back (resized).png
    #683 7 months ago

    In another thread about the noisy power supply fan in modern Sterns (mine is a TMNT), someone posted a 40mm to 60mm fan adapter for mounting a larger, quieter 12 volt fan on top of the existing fan. This saves you from opening the power supply area and voiding your warranty to replace the fan. It also saves you from the over-loud fan that sounds like a gosh dang hovercraft when it kicks on.

    However, the adapter version that was posted no longer exists, so I created a custom version from scratch in Fusion 360 which is made specifically to mount a 60mm fan on top of the Stern power supply using one of the pre-existing screws. I printed mine on a Prusa Mini.

    I'm using a nice and quiet Noctua NF-A6x25 that I got off of Amazon. It connects to the open 12 Volt power connector on the power board just below the power supply box using a connector and cable from Pinball Life:
    https://www.pinballlife.com/spike-12-volt-backbox-power-adapter-cable.html

    You can see where this 12V connection is in the pictures on Pinball Life.

    All the details are on the thingiverse page:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844962

    IMG_5399 (resized).jpgIMG_5400 (resized).jpgIMG_5401 (resized).jpgIMG_5402 (resized).jpgIMG_5403 (resized).jpgIMG_5404 (resized).jpg
    #684 7 months ago
    Quoted from plasticbugs:

    In another thread about the noisy power supply fan in modern Sterns (mine is a TMNT), someone posted a 40mm to 60mm fan adapter for mounting a larger, quieter 12 volt fan on top of the existing fan. This saves you from opening the power supply area and voiding your warranty to replace the fan. It also saves you from the over-loud fan that sounds like a gosh dang hovercraft when it kicks on.
    However, the adapter version that was posted no longer exists, so I created a custom version from scratch in Fusion 360 which is made specifically to mount a 60mm fan on top of the Stern power supply using one of the pre-existing screws. I printed mine on a Prusa Mini.
    I'm using a nice and quiet Noctua NF-A6x25 that I got off of Amazon. It connects to the open 12 Volt power connector on the power board just below the power supply box using a connector and cable from Pinball Life:
    https://www.pinballlife.com/spike-12-volt-backbox-power-adapter-cable.html
    You can see where this 12V connection is in the pictures on Pinball Life.
    All the details are on the thingiverse page:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844962[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    Does the original fan not kick on with the larger fan running all the time?

    #685 7 months ago
    Quoted from plasticbugs:

    In another thread about the noisy power supply fan in modern Sterns (mine is a TMNT), someone posted a 40mm to 60mm fan adapter for mounting a larger, quieter 12 volt fan on top of the existing fan. This saves you from opening the power supply area and voiding your warranty to replace the fan. It also saves you from the over-loud fan that sounds like a gosh dang hovercraft when it kicks on.
    However, the adapter version that was posted no longer exists, so I created a custom version from scratch in Fusion 360 which is made specifically to mount a 60mm fan on top of the Stern power supply using one of the pre-existing screws. I printed mine on a Prusa Mini.
    I'm using a nice and quiet Noctua NF-A6x25 that I got off of Amazon. It connects to the open 12 Volt power connector on the power board just below the power supply box using a connector and cable from Pinball Life:
    https://www.pinballlife.com/spike-12-volt-backbox-power-adapter-cable.html
    You can see where this 12V connection is in the pictures on Pinball Life.
    All the details are on the thingiverse page:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4844962[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

    And actually that's a neat idea, I was thinking about that, would this apply to a Meanwell PSU ? When we add ledstrip (such as using Pinduino), amp requirement is through the roof (60mA per led, that adds up quickly), and these damn Meanwell PSU tend to be noisy. I just don't know if fan control is driven by temperature, or by amperage load on the PSU. If driven by temperature, that design type would be a nice adder to any Meanwell PSU.

    #686 7 months ago
    Quoted from DudeRegular:

    Does the original fan not kick on with the larger fan running all the time?

    The original fan does not turn on at all now. It has a temperature sensor so it only turns on when the temperature rises above a certain point. The continuously running larger fan prevents the power supply from reaching that temperature.

    #687 6 months ago

    New dinos down by the drains. I posted a raptor print for the left side earlier, didn't like it. So Rev A.

    Wife still needs to paint, was just making sure they fit.
    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #688 6 months ago
    Quoted from mbwalker:

    New dinos down by the drains. I posted a raptor print for the left side earlier, didn't like it. So Rev A.
    Wife still needs to paint, was just making sure they fit.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Looks like a wrap (raptor), send to in-house paint shop.

    #689 6 months ago
    Quoted from Spiderpin:

    Looks like a wrap (raptor), send to in-house paint shop.

    And the in-house paint shop is expensive at times! No warranty either.

    #690 6 months ago

    Does anyone have a good process for prepping PLA 3D prints for paint? Basically, I'm looking for a way to fill gaps before I apply paint to achieve as smooth of a surface as possible before applying a chrome finish.

    I'm thinking something like some type of a topcoat or filler, followed by sanding, followed by base coat/primer, followed by final coat.

    #691 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Does anyone have a good process for prepping PLA 3D prints for paint? Basically, I'm looking for a way to fill gaps before I apply paint to achieve as smooth of a surface as possible before applying a chrome finish.
    I'm thinking something like some type of a topcoat or filler, followed by sanding, followed by base coat/primer, followed by final coat.

    I go through cans of sandable filler primer from Rustoleum. Harbor Freight also has a knock off version that is cheaper and works well. For more detailed stuff, I use a tube of bondo

    #692 6 months ago

    Or print slower and less fan

    #693 6 months ago
    Quoted from cartert:

    Or print slower and less fan

    You still have lines on the z-axis and even when ironing top surfaces they are still defects that need to be addressed. Normally, I deal with this through the printing process, but in this case I need a perfectly smooth surface for the chrome to look its best.

    #694 6 months ago

    True, but quality also depends on if using my own file or someone else’s. I I am nowhere near an expert.

    #695 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Does anyone have a good process for prepping PLA 3D prints for paint? Basically, I'm looking for a way to fill gaps before I apply paint to achieve as smooth of a surface as possible before applying a chrome finish.
    I'm thinking something like some type of a topcoat or filler, followed by sanding, followed by base coat/primer, followed by final coat.

    What about just some patch compound used for drywall if it's just minor gaps? Or do you think it will pop out?

    #696 6 months ago

    Actually, read several reviews online regarding the Rustoleum sandable filler/primer that DavidCPA recommended, and makers seem to love it for 3D printed models. Therefore, I think I'm going to give this method a try.

    #697 6 months ago

    Durabond. Similar to drywall patch, but is also an adhesive and sands smooth as glass. I use it on planking cabinets before prone and paint and works great

    #698 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Actually, read several reviews online regarding the Rustoleum sandable filler/primer that DavidCPA recommended, and makers seem to love it for 3D printed models. Therefore, I think I'm going to give this method a try.

    If you have an enclosure, you can try printing in ABS then smooth using acetone vapor.

    #699 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Actually, read several reviews online regarding the Rustoleum sandable filler/primer that DavidCPA recommended, and makers seem to love it for 3D printed models. Therefore, I think I'm going to give this method a try.

    Just be sure to give it enough time to properly dry. Once you get rid of the layer lines, start sanding with increasing fineness of sand paper. Wet sanding also works especially if you are going to paint it with chrome. Just be patient... took me awhile to learn to be patient in my painting....

    #700 6 months ago
    Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

    Does anyone have a good process for prepping PLA 3D prints for paint? Basically, I'm looking for a way to fill gaps before I apply paint to achieve as smooth of a surface as possible before applying a chrome finish.
    I'm thinking something like some type of a topcoat or filler, followed by sanding, followed by base coat/primer, followed by final coat.

    I modeled this gun from fallout 3, printed in PLA and then hosed it down with a can of filler primer. That worked great to get most of the stepping out.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/BtYyHT7D39-/?igshid=1smvt483qtfr

    There are 1,354 posts in this topic. You are on page 14 of 28.

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