(Topic ID: 246329)

3D printing sharing thread.... Lets better the hobby

By hoby1

4 years ago


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12 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #26 Crash's Thingiverse Pinball Search Links Posted by Crash (3 years ago)

Post #35 Speaker lights for metal back box Stern Posted by Darscot (3 years ago)

Post #119 Pinball Button Remover Posted by Ashram56 (3 years ago)

Post #212 Swinks Shapeways Downloads Posted by swinks (3 years ago)

Post #682 Gravestone Cross Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #683 Power Supply Fan Adapter (Modern Stern) Posted by plasticbugs (2 years ago)

Post #1049 Ball holder Posted by swinks (2 years ago)

Post #1696 Backbox Light Baffles Posted by John_I (2 years ago)

Post #1721 Spike 2 LED speaker panel Posted by dudah (2 years ago)

Post #1946 Target stabilizers Posted by bigguybbr (1 year ago)


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#3039 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

There's really no 1 setting for silk. Silk filaments can vary just as much as other styles so it really depends on the filament itself. Print yourself a temp tower to test it out.

I can second this advice. The Silk PLA's I've tried to date are a bit more stringy than regular PLA. Mine seemed to do better with a slightly lower temp (if I remember correctly) but if you're printing with lots of details, expect some clean-up of the parts at the end.

I've not had clogging issues at all with my MK3S+ with silk PLA. I do notice that it acts a little more "squishy" than regular PLA during filament changes, etc.

1 week later
#3118 1 year ago

Which pingulp file are you all using? Seems like I’ve seen a couple different versions.

1 week later
#3158 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

New Prusa Slicer Feature coming - Embossed Text
[quoted image]

That's an awesome feature. Are you running a Beta version of Prusa Slicer? This will come in super handy for personalization. Does it use your system fonts, or does it have a specific list of built-in fonts that it supports?

#3181 1 year ago

I made a seizure warning cover for Godzdilla. Easy filament swap for color change. I can share the file if anyone is interested.

IMG_1235 (resized).jpgIMG_1235 (resized).jpg Added 14 months ago:

Editing to add a link to Thingiverse with the STL file for this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5769359

#3191 1 year ago
Quoted from prentice:

Any good files out there for:
-side blade protectors
-glass corner edges
Almost spent $40 on protectors when I realize this is a great candidate to justify my $1000 printer

This might be one of the things you're looking for?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3789489

#3195 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Needed a clock at my workbench, cause I kinda lose track of time often. 3d printed and uses and arduino and an RTC for time and functions!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Great project! Is there info online somewhere with a parts list, files, etc? Or was this a homebrew?

#3244 1 year ago

Xdetroit that looks great!

2 weeks later
#3472 1 year ago

Hexes printed on their site actually print reasonably well in my experience. I made a bunch of different trays for our kitchen drawers with hexes on all sides and they look great. The top angles are easy and then there's only a short bridge at the top of each hex, which a good printer prints no problem.

2 weeks later
#3655 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

First print started on the X1C at .08 height. Going a little hardcore on the first trial b/c i'm...well, impatient. Shame my work has the network super locked down so I cant remote into it. We have an IoT network but even that I cant join unless I reserve the spot with the mac address of the wifi which is not readily viewable on the menu. I'd need to create a hotspot or similar, join it, and view the connected device list. Bleh a problem for another day. I'll find out tomorrow morning the result of that piece.

Really interested to hear how that goes. I have an X1C with AMS on order as well, looking forward to seeing how it runs compared to my Prusa.

1 week later
#3733 1 year ago

My X1-C was delivered yesterday, got it up and running and testing some stuff in the afternoon. I'm coming from a Prusa Mk3S+ with Octoprint running on an onboard Octopi setup.

I had my Prusa dialed in really nice, so I'm not seeing really big differences in print quality between the Mk3S+ and the X1-C so far. That said, it's hard to compare as the Bambu prints SO much faster. So fast that at times I'm sure it's going to produce total shit and the print quality is there. There was some speed headroom on the Prusa, but the X1-C is magnitudes faster. I'm currently running a set of dessicant holders that slip into the Bambu AMS unit, running in Sport mode (124% of normal speed) and it's going to finish in a little over 5 hours. On standard speed, the X1-C would print this in just under 7 hours including supports. The same multi-part print, mocked up in Prusa Slicer at the same resolution is a 12.5 hour print.

I printed mostly PLA on my Prusa, and the prusa satin / smooth sheet was super easy to use. Wipe with alcohol and every once in a while, wash it with soap and water. The Bambu Cool Plate (equivalent) is a bit annoying as the recommendation is to use glue stick. I have been using Windex instead and parts have been adhering very well but arguably possibly a touch too well, although I don't have any corner lifting that I sometimes saw with my Prusa. I may try the glue stick thing, or just swap to the textured plate as it's supposed to be here today. I don't wanna deal with glue stick.

It's probably a comfort and familiarity thing since it's only been a day so far, but I really preferred Prusa Slicer. I'm getting the hang of Bambu studio pretty quickly, but it's a different workflow than what I'm used to so I'm sure I'll come around to it. With Octoprint running on a Pi piggybacked to my Prusa, it was super easy. Prusa Slicer window on the left, browser open on the right to the Octoprint page for my Prusa. Slice the file, drag-and-drop the G-Code to the Octoprint page, and load it to the Pi over wireless. Then I could go to the machine, clean the bed, make sure I have the right filament ready and then launch the print from OctoPod on my phone. I'm not seeing a way to be able to do this same kind of thing with Bambu Slicer? I don't need the in-between step I guess of making the G-code file and moving it to the printer, but it sure would be handy. Any of you more experienced Bambu guys know of a way to load your print file and then launch from the printer or from your phone when the machine is ready to rock?

Speaking of the phone app, I hope Bambu adds some additional notification options. I really liked the functionality of OctoPod and being able to set partial completion notifications, etc. My notifications for print completion have been pretty spotty so far, but I saw something this morning suggesting to go delete and reload the app, so hopefully that clears up. Better notifications and the ability to launch a print from your phone would be great options.

Other than app/slicer preferences, the one print quality thing I've seen so far is that the X1-C doesn't seem to be on part with the Mk3S+ when it comes to bridging. My Prusa was a champ at cleanly executing some amazingly long bridges. The X1-C bridges kinda suck by comparison, based on a couple prints and a bridging test. The 50mm bridging spiral I ran after noticing this is what I'd consider "fair" quality on the X1-C, printing at the standard speed. It's super clean on the Prusa. I have "thick bridges" enabled in Bambu Studio and may have to just experiment with the bridging speeds to see if I can dial it in a bit.

Super open to any tips and tricks, the X1-C is a keeper in spite of my notes above. I think if they add some notification functionality, add app support for launching prints, and I can sort some bridging tweaks for cleaner output, it's money well spent for the X1-C. For the moment, the speed and equivalent print quality is enough but looking forward to more improvements and options for the end user. My son is coming over this weekend to grab my Prusa and put it to work at his place, so he's stoked.

#3739 1 year ago
Quoted from Aurich:

You can send direct to Octoprint from Prusa slicer, no need for the Octoprint page:
[quoted image]

Oh, NOW you tell me! In the end, I'm not sure it would save me time/steps as I also always have my file/folder window open as well and save off a copy of most gcode files I print so whether drag-and-drop or send directly to printer, I think it would be about the same for me personally. I end up using the Octoprint page to start the warmup before I head to the machine anyway so I've just always had it open.

#3742 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

BTW, I believe the glue stick is a release agent in this case, not used for adhering to the bed.

Yes, for sure as a release agent, didn't intend to suggest otherwise. It just grinds my gears for some reason, so I've been using Windex instead as I always have some handy anyway downstairs.

#3743 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Speaking of Octoprint, I've been trying to figure out what to use my recovered Raspberry Pi for. Any creative/useful ideas from the group?

I repurposed a spare RPi to do Home Automation duty, running Homebridge. This gets all of my non Apple HomeKit friendly smarthome stuff online for HomeKit, so we can control stuff via Siri or Alexa. I prefer HomeKit so all of the automation portion resides there and we can voice-control lights, blinds, garage door, smartlock, music, etc. all using Alexa via our Sonos speaker stuff anywhere in the house.

#3745 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not sure how you are doing it or if this addresses your workflow, but here is what I do:
- Slice file in Bambu
- Top right change "Print Plate" to "Send All" then click "Send All" button to bring up dialog to transfer gcode file to SD card in printer via WiFi
- Now you can go to the printer, touch the folder icon on the screen (select SD card if not already), and you will see all of your files. Cool thing from here is that you can now designate which filament(s) to use in the AMS by clicking on screen even if the colors you sliced with are different than what you have in the AMS to print with.
As an alternate step, once you slice you can File > Export > g-code and save file locally for later reference.
BTW, I too am coming from using Prusu Slicer exclusively for the last few years (I started when it was Slic3r). After spending a week on the Bambu, I'm now extremely comfortable with it, and all of the same settings are there and more from what I can tell (some settings are in different locations).
For your bridging, try comparing the bride settings to that of Prusa and make corresponding adjustments. I've done prints with 80mm bridges and they come out equally to my Prusa quality. I also cloned the support settings I used in Prusa Slicer, and things seem to be working better on that front now.

Ahh, good call! Exactly the kind of tip I was hoping for on the ability to launch the print from the machine. I didn't even see the Send and Send All in that pulldown. Thanks!

Yeah, that's where I was on bridging too. Probably have to do a little math but will take a swing at the Prusa settings in Bambu Studio and see how that goes. Prusa just worked for me with bridging settings as-is so it could also be the filament I'm using as well. Will try the Bambu with the same filament I used back when I tested bridging and see if it has the same reduced performance.

I had been using support settings from "bobstro" on the Prusa forum in Prusa Slicer and they were excellent. Great quality and very little effort to remove. Will have to see if I can put his support numbers into a saved setting in Bambu as well.

#3747 1 year ago

What are you all using for filament storage? Seems like some Rubbermaid totes with jars of orange dessicant is the right answer, anybody have a tote part number or suggested size handy? Getting tired of jacking around with vacuum bags, etc. Bambu AMS makes it nice for the stuff you're currently using but I'd like to have a smarter, ideally stackable storage option for open rolls of filament. Seems like the stuff just piles up over time.

#3837 1 year ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

There are a couple nice add-ons on Printables to help with filament clogs, one for abrasive filaments and one for eliminating the harsh bend coming into the Hot end that Bambu will fix.
https://www.printables.com/model/338073-bambu-x1-ptfe-extruder-bracket-ams-error-fix
Ken
Ken

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Printing my first time with the new guide right now (Prusament Galaxy Black PETG).
[quoted image]

What's the proper orientation to print that PTFE tube guide? When I drop it into the slicer it stands up on end. Not sure the swivel groove will print well with that internal overhang, at least not with the way the X1 bridges.

Screenshot 2023-02-22 at 5.05.47 PM (resized).jpgScreenshot 2023-02-22 at 5.05.47 PM (resized).jpg

Seems like it really wants to print this way, although the outside of the swivel end will be messy without supports?

Screenshot 2023-02-22 at 5.06.31 PM (resized).jpgScreenshot 2023-02-22 at 5.06.31 PM (resized).jpg
#3843 1 year ago
Quoted from Deez:

What 3D modeling software are you guys using? I tried using the windows stock software but I can't figure out how to change the CG on an object and rotation is a pain due to this when making these pingolf trophies. I'm looking for something better.
[quoted image]

Fusion 360 here for sure. Great tutorials online and you can get a hobbyist license for free. Very powerful.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Personally, I would print that in two pieces and glue together (could even use a peg-hole for joining the two) to get a better looking finished item (i.e. the ball would not be deformed). The flipper and ball would be a one print with bottom side down on the print plate, and the base would be another printed as it sits.

Agree, a two-piece would make for a much cleaner print. Print-in-place is a beautiful, marvelous thing - but not always the best answer when multi-part is so easy.

#3851 1 year ago

Thanks for this, I ended up printing the curved version instead. I printed it in Overture clear PETG. My first attempt at printing PETG on the Bambu and it printed clean and like a champ. I used the Engineering Plate with no prep, just wiped with IPA. Stuck just fine and was easy to remove when cooled. 32 minute print using the Generic PETG settings with a 15mm brim. I haven't encountered the error, but it was a quick/easy print and good preventive measure. No supports needed with the curved design, and with the extruder slot printed vertically, it came out clean.

IMG_1898 (resized).jpgIMG_1898 (resized).jpg

IMG_1899 (resized).JPGIMG_1899 (resized).JPG

#3918 1 year ago
Quoted from Anony:

A lot of people, myself included, put a large paving stone on the table to sit the printer on. This seems to dampen the vibration a lot.
Also just looking at the Canadian Bambu store and it looks like they raised the price of the X-1 Carbon combo by around $100. Did they do the same everywhere?

Current US Pricing:
X1C: $1199
X1C w/AMS: $1449

The combo is priced the same as it was a month ago when I ordered mine.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Bambu X1 AMS Hubs are back in stock. I just ordered a second AMS + Hub (required to add additional AMS units). Bring on the 8 color prints! Actually, I have very few prints with more than 4 colors (currently), but just looking forward to the convenience of minimizing color swaps on a constant basis. Who knows, I might add a third or even fourth AMS in the future.

Not sure why I just ordered another AMS + hub but I did. Thanks! I think!?

#3940 1 year ago

So after running a ton of stuff through this Bambu X1C, I remain impressed. The speed is outstanding and it seems to eat whatever filament I throw at it. The two things I wish were better are 1) bridging (that I whined about previously ) and 2) top surface finish. The side surfaces are super super nice, better than on my Prusa. But the top surfaces kinda suck. Not sure if I need to slow down for the tops or start ironing? I've read where people don't get great ironing results out of the X1C?

Any suggestions? It's a great workhorse so far, if I could tune in bridging and make some nice top surfaces it would be a super home run.

#3955 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

My top surfaces have been perfect, and I would say equal to what my Prusa produces (FYI, I typically don't iron large surface areas, but do utilize ironing requently). What I did notice is that Bambu Studio only has 3 top surfaces by default in some of the standard print profiles, but I always change it to 5 or 6 (Prusa Slicer default). Attached is a photo of a large top surface area I printed last night that is not ironed (the artifacts you see at bottom are reflections on the camera lens and not in the print).
As far as bridging goes, things seem to be on-par with my Prusa with the models I've done so far.
[quoted image]

Yeah, like I said, my top surfaces (without ironing) don't look nearly as nice as those from my Prusa, this is what my X1C flat top surfaces look like:
IMG_1984 (resized).JPGIMG_1984 (resized).JPG

For a part like that ^ it's a bit irrelevant since it's a utility thing, but I'll give Kevin's ironing settings a try next time I print something that deserves a cleaner top surface.

We may be talking about different things with respect to bridging? Not talking about briding over infill - that's fine and I can add a layer or two on top to hide the infill "witness marks" that appear in standard settings. I'm talking about sags and poor adhesion in unsupported spans of 20mm+. I never had to run supports on any of my Prusa stuff with straight-line connected bridging, it simply printed clean. With the Bambu, I have dropping and other stuff that I need to trim away. Everything so far has been salvageable, but the Prusa simply did a better job with that stuff. As suggested earlier in the thread, I need to experiment a bit by borrowing some bridging settings from PrusaSlicer to see if I can get the same results from the Bambu.

#3978 1 year ago
Quoted from La4s:

I saw the idea on the Bond mod thread, and thought I would give making flasher covers a try. Just need to test fit to see how they look.[quoted image]

I like it. How do they attach? Just slip-on?

#3986 1 year ago
Quoted from La4s:

Friend took a pic on bond. Not the best picture. I will try and get some with better lighting. They slip on and are just snug enough that they should not spin once pressed down.[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great!

#3988 1 year ago
Quoted from dpadam450:

Yea I could do a cartoon Grohl but I don't have time to burn right now. I suppose I could charge some $ to make up for that since it's not really a copyright issue, but not worth the time. To the people that hit me up, I'll send this one out to you as well soon, but here is a simple gun from the album and the layout for printing parts to assemble.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5887528[quoted image]

This looks awesome, well done! I've got a soft spot for Ray Guns, I have a few of them here at the house. Thingiverse link didn't work for me?

#3991 1 year ago

One of my "full size" Ray Guns:

IMG_2040 (resized).JPGIMG_2040 (resized).JPG

IMG_2042 (resized).JPGIMG_2042 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#4054 1 year ago

I had one like that on my Prusa. Just had to replace the impacted parts and was back in business.

1 week later
#4099 1 year ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Have now created 3 other varieties, 2 by request, 1 for completion.
A single ball EM version, which will hold all 4 long backbox bolts and washers.
[quoted image]
Another for backboxes secured by wingbolts - 4 balls max.
[quoted image]
Finally one where the backbox is locked with an Allen key - 6 balls
[quoted image]

These are great. Well done!

#4137 12 months ago

Playing with some speaker light emblem ideas for Foo Fighters, came out pretty nice.

(Pardon the scotch tape patch holding it up for test )

IMG_2250 (resized).JPGIMG_2250 (resized).JPGIMG_2251 (resized).JPGIMG_2251 (resized).JPGIMG_2254 (resized).JPGIMG_2254 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#4179 11 months ago
Quoted from La4s:

Are you willing to share the STL for us that would like to try and print our own?

He already did, about a month back. You'll have to dig back through the thread a few pages for the link.

#4189 11 months ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thank you for sharing! Here is the blue installed
[quoted image]

Quoted from king_pin:

Looks good there with the blue LEDs on the defense barrier!

Xdetroit the blue really does look great! I've said it before, but thanks for sharing this one with us king_pin !

#4200 11 months ago
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:

Going to buy the bambu x1 carbon - do I want the AMS ? I’ve never done multi color before is it worth it?

I ended up setting up mine with 2x AMS. I don't do a huge amount of multicolor, but it's slick as hell when I do. I certainly do more now that I have the option, even stuff I could do before by simply setting a pause to swap filament on easy changes. The beauty is, I don't have to go anywhere near the machine, it just does it all automagically. The AMS have been quite robust so far and double as dryboxes, so to me personally, worth it.

4 weeks later
#4302 10 months ago
Quoted from usul27:

Simple playfield holder for Sega/Stern:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6017737
[quoted image]

Suggestion on material and infill?

#4314 10 months ago
Quoted from usul27:

I use PLA for basically everything. Even 15% infill works fine, if you want it a bit stronger go for 25-40%.

Quoted from Anony:

If you want strength infill isn't usually the best way. I prefer to add perimeter layers. You can actually feel the difference in your hand if you hold two identical parts but the perimeters are different.

I went 6 perimeters + 6 layers top/bottom and localized 50% honeycomb in the shear area and 20% everywhere else. I'm sure will be way overkill.

1 week later
#4348 10 months ago

Anybody have a simple design they'd recommend for respooling. I printed one that hooks to a drill and I guess I can just take the original spool and put it on a piece of dowel clamped to a bench or something. I've seen some really fancy setups but I don't need to do this very often. Just have some rolls of Prusament PETG that don't play nicely in my AMS's and hate to hang them externally when I've taken the time to prep them properly by drying, etc.

Any suggestions on a simple but effective respool setup are appreciated!

#4349 10 months ago

...deleted, double post...

2 weeks later
#4393 9 months ago
Quoted from DarthPaul:

What do you guys do with your old Printers if you are upgrading or replacing, throw away, give away, sell or keep it? My Creality CR-10s is showing its age, time for something new.

My Prusa MK3S+ went to my son when I got my Bambu X1C. I thought about keeping it for running parts but I keep trying not to do 3D printing in volume as I really don't need another hobby.

#4406 9 months ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

I recently got an X1C and i can't get it to print PETG very well.
What settings are you guys/gals using to print PETG?
I'm using the high temp plate ( scuffed with red scotch brite), Generic PEtg setting, I also tried to mimic the Settigns i use on my prusa. No luck.
Thanks,
Bob

Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:

While people including myself to some degree have gotten PETG to print well on the X1 it’s really tough which is likely why Bambu doesn’t even sell it. PETG is becoming less relevant with PLA+, ASA and others which have high heat tolerance and aren’t so sticky. I’ve moved on from it. The key is slowing it down. Others may have better, more specific details or profiles to share.

What kinds of issues are you guys having with PETG? First layer adhesion issues or warpage or all of the above? I printed some larger PETG stuff as an experiment and saw kinda crazy warpage on long thin parts but had good adhesion to the textured plate.

#4441 9 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Are you able, err...is it possible to do color changes real time and on the fly with the AMS setup from Bambu removing any manual input from it? IE:
It'll change colors on it's own?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question but yes, once you set up your print in the slicer (Bambu Studio, Orca, etc) the AMS and the printer handle the filament change on the fly, with zero attention required from the user. It's literally fire and forget. You can "paint" colors, you can set colors by layer height, etc. It's super super handy and easy.

#4443 9 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

That's exactly what I was asking. We will be ordering a new bambu with ams I'm almost certain. Thanks.

I printed this 4-color Snorlax on my X1C. Sent the job to the printer and went and removed it when it was complete. Fully automated. The "5 o clock shadow" around the black portions that define his eyes and smile are because I was playing around with purge volumes when changing colors and went a little too far.

The Bambu uses a lot of extra filament doing these types of projects and it adds substantial time as sometimes there are multiple color changs/purges per layer, but the results are pretty darn good, and again run fully unattended.
snorlax (resized).jpegsnorlax (resized).jpeg

2 weeks later
#4575 9 months ago

Fusion360 is a fantastic tool and well worth learning if you are going to do complex shapes. It has some very powerful tools built in to be able to create and modify shapes. There are also a huge amount of free online resources, YouTube videos and other training for Fusion360 out there on the web. Like most decent modeling software, it pays to use it on occasion to stay fresh, but I've designed some very complex stuff with Fusion and the more you use it, the faster it goes.

1 week later
#4602 8 months ago
Quoted from Soulrider911:

Personally the parametric modelling. Having a history and being able to very easily make a change to a sketch or an extrusion and not have to do a ton of work to update a model is priceless. Additionally, the built-in rendering, and animation tools for doing exploded views.
I forced myself to learn it and am still learning, but I can finally say I am comfortable and it is fantastic. I previously used Shapr3d for CAD... and this is now my go-to.

Gotta second (or third) the note here about parametric modeling. It takes a little forethought and planning but DAMN, is it handy if you have a design that needs to be used with some evolution later, or an object that is custom sized to an application. Super slick for print-in-place hinges, other joints, or clearances as well.

1 month later
#4760 7 months ago

I have a shooter lane guide installed on my Stern GZ but the playfield shifts around laterally (earlier machine without the centering tabs / switch plates) and results in poor plunges when the playfield moves too far left. So I designed and printed a shim or wedge to hold the playfield in the fully right-side position and this has fully cleaned up plunges for me. Easy to pull out when you need to raise the playfield and captured in place nicely so it can't move. Once the glass is on and lockbar in place, it's nearly invisible in matte black PLA.

Quick, cheap, easy print (14 minutes, <5g of filament, no supports) for anyone who wants to give it a whirl. It's worth noting that you may need to make adjustments to the thickness of the wedge/shim to suit your needs and this only works if a playfield shifted fully right makes your machine shoot correctly. I've included the .f3d file in the post on Printables so you can open in Fusion and tweak as needed for your machine. The shim as-designed is 6.8mm thick, so another option would be to simply scale the appropriate axis in your slicer to achieve the thickness you need. Would be easy to make a mirrored pair if you needed one on each side to suit your machine.

Here are the files on Printables:
https://www.printables.com/model/558740-stern-godzilla-playfield-wedge-shim-shooter-rattle

IMG_3467 (resized).jpgIMG_3467 (resized).jpg

IMG_3469 (resized).jpgIMG_3469 (resized).jpg

IMG_3468 (resized).jpgIMG_3468 (resized).jpg

#4763 7 months ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

You beat me to the punch. I've been thinking about making something like this for my Stern Jurassic Park.

Worth a shot, it has been hugely successful in my GZ. I'm probably 40 or 50 plunges in, every one has been clean.

#4769 7 months ago
Quoted from koops:

Just for something not pinball related ... my kids had a book week dress up at school for which my son asked me to create something, only two days before
arrrg!
15 mins in tinkercad.
[quoted image]
Color the face in bambu slicer and throw it at the x1. I avoided doing a full multicolor due to the time required.
[quoted image]
This print used the largest amount of area on the bed i've ever used before.
[quoted image]
Super glue together, add a piece of foam in the top for comfort. Done.
Eyes are see thru (from the wearers perspective) by doing 50% infill honeycomb insert boxes with no bottom or top layers.
[quoted image]
Could have never gotten this done so fast on my ender 3, and with the confidence that I can just send it and have a successful print done by morning.
No watching the first layer go down. No checking for lifted edges. Quick and not so dirty. Happy client.
[quoted image]

Haha, well done - looks fantastic!

Yes, the "oh hey, I need a (food item, costume, complex gadget, etc) for school tomorrow." At 7:30pm. Parent life is no joke!

2 weeks later
#4841 6 months ago

Decimal inches or metric, whichever floats your boat. There's a decimal in both, just in a different place is all. I can work in either, but I typically work in metric since that's what we design in at work and it just feels more fluent to me. But there's technically little difference between the two.

Use the units you are comfortable with and which suit your project.

#4845 6 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

Decimals are just decimals, true. But there are more advantages to sticking with metric for modeling/printing. A few I can think off the top of my head;
- When working on fitting prototypes, for me at least it's a lot easier to estimate one mm here or there versus 0.4 of inches. Even if you just work in mils, 10 mils seems too fine to estimate and 100 mils is too course. 1mm seems just about right.
- Some slicers or other tools that import STLs, assume they were generated in mm. Most have the ability to easily convert or scale, but it's an extra step that adds potential for getting something wrong or loss of accuracy each time you need to transverse tools.
- If you deal with hardware, it's so much easier to understand how to model around metric hardware. For example M4 and M3 versus 1/4" and #4. Thread pitch is also way easier to work with as well. 1.25mm versus 28TPI
- If you need to design with other commercial products that have mechanical drawings you are much more likely to run into drawings only in mm.

Yeah, like i said, "whatever floats your boat." I'm comfortable with either, maybe from many many years of working in decimal inches, before 3D printing existed in the hobbyist/consumer realm. Lots of problems or situations exist on standard imperial units, so unfortunately it's tough to try to exist in a metric-only world. But in the end, whether decimal inches or metric, it's a measurement.

Agree that if someone is coming at it with no experience in design, engineering or manufacturing in either system, it probably makes sense to do things metric and do your best to live there - even if just for convenience. But if like the Pinsider above, you only have access to parts or tools with imperial measurement, I'd rather convert once at the slicer than try to convert every measurement along the way.

Use the units you are comfortable with and which suit your project.

2 weeks later
#5049 6 months ago

Is there a way to enter a complex WiFi password into the X1C without doing it manually? I have it on my guest network currently but would put it on my main if I didn't have to punch in the password by hand on the little screen.

1 week later
#5079 5 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

If you saw the new Stern light and were like.... $500!!!! just like me.... I was like, I can try to make that.
Is it perfect, no.
Is it cool, yes.
The BBL profile is pre painted on the triangles cause I'm not good enough to model them separately and have then flush on the cap.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/34159#profileId-31341
https://www.printables.com/model/603981-pinball-em-pop-bumper-light
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That looks great! Well done and thanks for sharing it with us!

1 week later
#5104 5 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I mentioned that a couple days ago. Annoying.

I have refused the update so far thanks to your post. Hope they get that bug sorted soon. Thanks for posting about it!

#5116 5 months ago

Fusion360 here as well. Very powerful and lots of online tutorial support available. Personal Use license is free. I like it.

#5123 5 months ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Have you tried the better tolerance rollers that are available on Printables. They work great on stock AMS units.
https://www.printables.com/model/563241-ams-rear-rollers-forgiving-tolerances-edition-stoc

Oh, I may have to try this. How should I choose the roller size? Or are there different sizes for the different positions? Looks like there's a 14.5, a 15.5 and a 16.5?

#5142 5 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

The magnet thing is weird but handy actually. I'm not getting push notifications on any of my 3 printers either when issues happen, and the print finished notification isn't timely. I and some others on here run sunlu with good results, I probably have 300+ rolls of it here, it and esun for my pla+ and petg, priline for my tpu.

I've never tried printing TPU but man it sure would be handy for some stuff. Any key tips or considerations when printing TPU?

#5177 5 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I uploaded a STL for making custom launch buttons: https://www.printables.com/model/622309-pinball-launch-button-graphic-plate
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I did my graphics on the print with a vinyl cutter, and the 'pedestrian' way is to just print a paper insert to go over it. But looking at that keychain I bet it would be cool to use multi material printing to make it all one unit.
Probably wouldn't handle the fine detail of these designs perfectly, but it's a launch button, doesn't really need hyper fine detail anyways.
My file is public domain and free to use however you like if anyone wants to try.

Thanks for sharing this design. I'll have to print up a plate and make an AFM version. We have vinyl cutter so if I can get the art sorted it should be a quick one. Appreciate it!

#5187 5 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

I uploaded a STL for making custom launch buttons: https://www.printables.com/model/622309-pinball-launch-button-graphic-plate
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I did my graphics on the print with a vinyl cutter, and the 'pedestrian' way is to just print a paper insert to go over it. But looking at that keychain I bet it would be cool to use multi material printing to make it all one unit.
Probably wouldn't handle the fine detail of these designs perfectly, but it's a launch button, doesn't really need hyper fine detail anyways.
My file is public domain and free to use however you like if anyone wants to try.

I had a few minutes so I decided to give this a try today. Drew up some quick art as a test and printed one of your button inserts with the art printed-in-place. Came out better than I expected, although I think the best answer will be vinyl decal material. Will have to see how it looks on the machine - kind of like playfield stuff, things might look rougher than you'd like up close but once in position they look good.

IMG_3910 (resized).jpgIMG_3910 (resized).jpgIMG_3912 (resized).jpgIMG_3912 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2023-10-23 at 5.05.53?PM (resized).jpgScreenshot 2023-10-23 at 5.05.53?PM (resized).jpg
#5188 5 months ago

Thankfully I got lucky on orientation of the tabs to the art

As expected, it actually looks pretty cool in the machine. Feels much brighter due to the transparent PLA. If I re-do, I will probably tweak a couple things. 1) I printed this one with the black at 4 layers (0.8mm) thickness, will probably dial that back to 2 layers as the thickness of the black materail closes the first A when looking at it off-axis. Thinner should be better. 2) I may thicken up the beam coming out of the saucer a bit.

Overall pretty cool. For sure vinyl would be crisper, so before it's all said and done I'll probably make one that way as well, likely in white to help diffuse the light a little more. Thanks again Aurich for sharing!

IMG_3914 (resized).JPGIMG_3914 (resized).JPGIMG_3920 (resized).JPGIMG_3920 (resized).JPGIMG_3922 (resized).jpgIMG_3922 (resized).jpg
#5191 5 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Nice!
The other thing I would suggest is changing all your fill patterns to concentric, and setting infill to 100%. That will leave you with a much cleaner pattern for the light to pass through and hides some of the filament artifacts, thought it may not matter much if you're printing black in with it and you get perimeters around that.
[quoted image]

It's funny because when I printed a white and a clear blank, I just set 5 top and 5 bottom layers so it was effectively 100% infill. When I went in to do the fancy version, I forgot so there's one layer of Gyroid in there. I didn't notice until I held it up to the light for that pic.

Good suggestion on Concentric, will give that a whirl. Printing one in white with that setup on the textured plate to see if that helps the look at all.

#5193 5 months ago
Quoted from Aurich:

Yeah the 100% infil is just to keep it from making a single unfinished layer in the middle, it's not exactly a thick print.

OK, experiment complete. Final answer for me was:

-Textured plate (amazing how clean it makes these multi-material bottom surfaces)
-White PLA
-Two Layers of Black for the logo, the remainder is white
-Aligned Rectilinear top/bottom/middle

It's clean enough that I'm not sure a typical player would be able to notice the difference between this and cut vinyl. It looks great in the machine. I tried concentric but it leaves some funky shapes in various areas, where rectilinear minimized those artifacts. It's "eye clean" with a light behind it.

Good exercise and helpful experience to have for future projects. Thanks again for providing the platform!

IMG_3932 (resized).jpgIMG_3932 (resized).jpgIMG_3936 (resized).jpgIMG_3936 (resized).jpg

Screenshot 2023-10-23 at 8.36.25?PM (resized).jpgScreenshot 2023-10-23 at 8.36.25?PM (resized).jpg
#5197 5 months ago

As requested by a few, I uploaded my remix of Aurich design that I made for my AFMr. It's available on Printables:

https://www.printables.com/model/625414-afmr-attack-from-mars-reissue-pinball-launch-butto

IMG_3936 (resized).jpgIMG_3936 (resized).jpg
#5201 5 months ago
Quoted from mostater:

Thanks Aurich and Desmodromic for supplying the launch button insert files.
I tried printing the AFM one on my Prusa mini. Let's just say it came out less than perfect. Since I have to swap out filaments to get multi-color, it ended up with some unwanted crossover. I think what happens is that after the new color is purged, the print head travels back to the print but some of the new color is still stuck out of the extruder and gets dragged/caught/hung up on some portion of the prior color print. Is anyone aware of a PrusaSlicer setting that would stop that from happening? I'm sure there's a technical name for what's going on, I'm just not aware.
Here are a couple pics. One with and one without backlighting.[quoted image][quoted image]

Sorry, I don't have much in the way of suggestions for you on the little artifact bits. I had a little bit of that the first time I printed one but it cleared up when I printed it again. Maybe set a pause in the code and manually clean the nozzle? I only really did layer-based multiple filaments when I had my Prusa, sorry I can't be of more help!

#5207 5 months ago
Quoted from Anony:

I made this heart for my Class of 1812 as a fun project to see if I could pull it off. I'm wondering if anyone knows how I can make the flat face rounded like a cartoonish heart would look rather than being flat. Is there a tool in fusion that would do that or would I have to design it differently from the get go?
[quoted image]

Pretty straightforward in Fusion using the Fillet tool, if I understand what you're trying to do. I've done something very similar on previous designs. Using the fillet tool, you'd have to decide how to handle the cutout area below the tip of the heart. Ultimately, you'd need to sort out that part regardless if you want to round the top face.

#5213 5 months ago

Anony pretty easy using Loft, if you have space in front of the front/top surface of the heart. Doing it with the cutout behind could be problematic. Check message 6 here at Autodesk support forum. Should be pretty quick if you have the space:

https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/need-help-how-to-make-a-bubble-heart/td-p/8552862

If you don't have space on top/front, this all gets a lot tricker.

#5230 4 months ago
Quoted from BMGfan:

So after years of 3d printing. (2x ender3s, both heavily modded, and a Qidi Xmax). I finally but the bullet on an X1C/AMS.....
......good god I don't know what to do with myself.
The speed.
The filament just always being loaded up.
The never bed leveling.
Never having to use a brim for day-to-day prints.
I'm just amazed. I can't wait to play with nylon and PC

Congrats! I came skeptically from a Prusa and was blown away. I remain surprised at the speed and quality. My stuff is all onesie-twosie work and prototyping but the speed makes the process much different for me. So good!

2 weeks later
#5299 4 months ago
Quoted from Jblock22:

Hey guys! Anyone have a lead on a 3d print file for pinball armor for newer sterns? I have a larger (300x400mm) printer that I think I might be able to print some out even as a temporary fix until I get some more $$$ rolling in but can't find files anywhere. I see people selling custom ones with designs but honestly I am fine for now just printing out generic black ones. Any help would be appreciated!

You're looking for lollipops or triangles to go on the sides around the buttons? I don't have a file for it but it seems like it would be an easy one to design?

#5340 4 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Iiidmax Black Friday sale 15% off (cyber15). Makes each roll of pla+ just $10 when you buy 10 spools (still free shipping)

Thanks for this, I'll get an order in. No issues with these spools in the Bambu AMS? Any special tweaks for temperature or speed, or just use the Generic PLA Bambu settings?

#5342 4 months ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Generic Bambu pla setting. If you use them in the AMS you may need to scrape the gate marks clean, unless you do the cardboard spool mod

Awesome, thank you!

3 weeks later
#5529 3 months ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I appreciate the feedback. I am in the same boat, probably will never get another Creality product. Figured it would be a good cheap printer to get my feet wet. I can deal with the mechanical issues, but the computer side was another story. Gave the scrap heap to someone with some small enders.

I waited to get into 3D printing until you could buy a kit or machine that was fairly well sorted. That meant (for me) the starting point was a Prusa Mk3. It was a great machine and produced high quality prints. I eventually had a couple print failures and started running into "new" problems that I assume were due to some funny things going on after the failures. My son now has it with a rebuilt Z axis and it seems to work well for him. I jumped into the Bambu world after that with an X1C combo (with AMS) and it has been quite solid and fast, fast, fast. Thankfully I've been mostly free from a need to work through their support team, it just seems to run whatever I throw at it. 8/10 would recommend.

#5588 3 months ago

Those of you using the IIIDMAX filaments, have you seen any issues? Are their PLA+ and PETG both good products or are there specifics from them that are better/worse than others?

Thinking about placing an order and I know some here use their filaments.

#5607 3 months ago

Thanks all for the feedback on the IIIDMAX filament and ManbearpigOG for the code. I submitted an order for 10 rolls yesterday to try it out.

#5657 3 months ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

So, plate arrived yesterday and I set it printing straight away.
First print didn't go great because I forgot to turn off AMS, and was intending on printing from the spool - but I let it run anyway. There was a bit of lifting in the corner facing the fan. I hadn't set a brim.
The holographic effect was impressive, but after rubbing my greasy fingers over it it just became a highly gloss print. Although I know that if I were to clean it with a degreaser the effect should return.
Second attempt I set the brim and printed from the spool holder as I intended. Result was much much better. Perfect print and fully glossy with the holographic effect.[quoted image][quoted image]

What's the technical part of what is happening with prints from these plates? Is there material transfer taking place between the plate and the print, making the plate eventually sacrificial? Or is it a surface thing that creates light refraction (mirrored) in the bottom surface?

#5659 3 months ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Ditch the cool plate and glue stick nonsense and get the gold PEI plate. I don't even have to clean the plate very often.

I've transitioned from using mostly the smooth cold plate for PLA to the original grey textured PEI plate. Is there a performance difference between the grey textured PEI and the (I assume newer) gold textured PEI? Or is it just a cosmetic thing?

#5663 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I think there is a difference, the coating is supposed to be more resilient or something.

In the World According to Reddit, it sounds like maybe the PEI is directly powder coated or otherwise applied to the steel plate in the gold version, whereas the original black/grey plate is a PEI decal or sheet that is applied to the steel. Mine have been quite durable so far, so until they start giving me trouble or delaminating, I'll just use up my stash before switching to the gold.

#5666 3 months ago
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:

PLA+ all day long! The only issue is the spools are molded, so sometimes there are little burs that you have to cut off so it rolls in the AMS.
I also use Fremover (can buy bulk), but their spools are thin walled and some times have issues rolling.
If you do an order with IIIMAX use the discount code of MOVE2MAX as it is 5% off. Just did a 10 pk order and it's $113.91[quoted image]

Is this the Costco Trinity 6-tier shelving? Looks like it, I need to grab one and get myself organized. Digging through a pile of filament boxes and dry boxes is a pain in the ass.

#5672 3 months ago

There's also a 10% code running for now: XMAS

I just got my 10 roll order but based on the generally good experience here, I'm tempted to get another 10.

#5703 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Twizzlers lol
I emailed them, obviously I'm not wrong about the color. I can probably use these for something, but the brittleness is off-putting but maybe I just have an off-batch. I have like 200 rolls here on the shelf right now, I will manage for a bit heh

Interested to hear how this shakes out for you. You noticed the brittleness when you were stringing it in the AMS or in prints themselves? I have some white inbound, will be curious to see how truly white it is compared to say Hatchbox white.

In my initial IIIDMax order I received some Fluorescent Orange that was almost more of a "creamsicle" color (maybe a bit short on pigment) and I think on the old spools. I expected mixed spools, but was a little surprised that it wasn't brighter. Will have to check the rolls themselves and make sure they didn't mis-ship me Burnt Orange or something.

#5718 89 days ago

Mike brings up something I've been wanting to try for a while - printing in TPU. I read the previous discussions with interest regarding TPU+AMS but I'm happy to do it from the rear spool holder for the "onesie" type work I'd likely do with it.

Does anybody have a recommendation for a brand of TPU they've been happy with for the X1C? I fully expect to have to do a bunch of tuning stuff but would like to start with a brand of material with known success. Thanks for any advice!

#5719 89 days ago

Also, I got an email from IIIDMax this morning with a new 10% off discount coupon code for anyone looking to try their stuff or make a bulk order.

Use NEWYEAR24 for 10% off

#5793 84 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I still haven't heard anything from IIIDmax. No reply at all. Reached out one more time clearly indicating I'm going to dispute the charge with Amex, will update if they get back to me or we got to the mattresses.
Unrelated directly but possibly a solution for me: Sunlu has reached out and offered wholesale direct pricing on everything they sell so that may end up solving my issue longer-term.

Have you tried the IIIDMax Discord? They seem to be somewhat responsive there. Seems like I saw a complaint or two similar to yours over on their site. Might be worth a shot!

#5807 83 days ago

I made my first (and world's easiest) venture into TPU today on my Bambu X1C. Learned a couple things that some of you probably already know but might be of use to others. One feels like a bug in Orca Slicer, the other is just kind of an oddity. I was printing TPU wipers for a Pastamatic respooling rig, as I have some Amazon filament left over from my Prusa days and it's all on spools too wide to run in my AMS. The TPU printed beautifully, for what it's worth. I was surprised, given how skinny these little guys are. Only stringing I had was at the beginning of the print, probably in part because I followed the Bambu rec and printed by object.

I sliced these in Orca and when you click on the plate settings to swap to "print by object" (print one, move to the next, print that one, move to the next, etc), the slicer warns you that you may have toolhead clearance issues if you don't have your parts far enough apart. Orca provides a "safety ring" so you can arrange your parts so that the toolhead clears any previously printed parts. Turns out, the Orca safety ring is not actually large enough. Here's Orca, showing the safety ring for an X1C with the cool plate:
Orca (resized).jpgOrca (resized).jpg

And here's what the rings look like when you arrange the exact same parts in Bambu Studio, the safety zone is visibly wider:
Bambu (resized).jpgBambu (resized).jpg

The safety zone is wider. With the Orca anti-collision rings, here's what happened with my TPU Maybe significantly less funny with PETG or PLA, etc.

I could have also avoided this (even with the too-small Orca spacing) by more carefully checking the print order. I should have printed Left -> Middle -> Right -> Rear due to the LIDAR hanging off the right hand side of the X1C toolhead and will make note of this for future print-by-object projects.

Thankfully, it was a little thin flexy TPU wiper but still made me chuckle. Orca let me slice and print because the spacing requirement was met - even though it wasn't in reality. This was Orca 1.9.0-beta so YMMV, but just a heads-up for anyone who finds themselves in the same situation.

#5808 83 days ago

The other curious thing I noted, which happens with both Bambu Studio and Orca is that the Arrange All (A key) objects at the button does not comprehend or take into consideration the safety zones when set to print by object. Maybe this makes sense since it's a global Arrange All and will move things between plates, but it's worth noting that the Arrange Objects on Selected Plates (Shift+A) as well as the Arrange Objects icon adjacent to the edge of the plate will both arrange the objects WITH consideration for the safety zones.

When I set the plate to print-by-object and click the Arrange All at the top of the screen, this is what happens, in both Orca and Bambu Studio:
Global Auto Arrange Result (resized).jpgGlobal Auto Arrange Result (resized).jpg

If you use Shift+A or hit the Auto Arrange icon next to the plate, it spaces the parts properly:
Plate Auto Arrange Result (resized).jpgPlate Auto Arrange Result (resized).jpg

So, remember:
AutoArrange (resized).jpgAutoArrange (resized).jpg

This is either a feature or just an oddity. When I separated my TPU wipers in Orca as shown in the previous post, I did so manually, by dragging them around to create room for the safety oval. I was surprised that the Arrange All button at the top didn't do it properly, so I did it by hand. Later when playing around after the fact, I noticed the plate Arrange All and realized that this was The Way.

Interesting stuff, hope the info is of help to someone else and remember to be careful if using Orca in print-by-object as the window isn't large enough!

#5809 83 days ago

<cue jrcmlc with the "I ain't reading all that...">

#5822 81 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Never heard back from IIIDmax, disputed the charge, they can deal with Amex. Fuck them.

That sucks, sorry to hear it. I think you mentioned a Sunlu deal before, will that be your new source? I have a bunch (for me) of IIIDMax to run but I didn't order white because it looked like a couple of you had issues. I need to stock up some white PLA, so will be interested to hear what those of you running volume printing use.

1 week later
#5929 72 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Good morning 3D modeling experts !
I've been using Fusion to create small custom mechanical parts for a while, but I'd like to perform a remix of an existing model which is only provided as an STL. Nothing fancy, need to create channels for wires and "holes" for electronic components, etc... But I must say I'm a little bit at a loss on how to approach that.
I tried Meshmixer, seems some of the functions are now integrated within Fusion 360, but what are 3D remix experts using out there for more complicated modifications ?
Cheers !

I've done a bunch of remix stuff with Fusion 360, whether to add a feature or use an interface that someone has already sorted out and build my own stuff off the interface. The basics of cleaning up an STL import are in the first 3-4 minutes of this video, including guides for the free/hobbyist license:

Not sure what you're working on, but this one goes pretty deep later in the video. As he suggests, I've found myself a couple times spending more time cleaning up a mesh conversion than it would have taken to simply re-create the model based on key points of the exising geometry.

3 weeks later
#6171 47 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Dude on a FB group is making these, does anyone have a guide on how to make them? I imagine a thin layer for the front so it will illuminate. Curious of tolerances between and best practices.
[quoted image]

0.6mm thick front face is what I've been using, about 40mm deep overall. When you create the model from your vector art, you just make each color a separate part, then assign the colors in slicer. Once it's printed, light it with some $5 COB LED strip. I've been getting them from Temu but you can get them from Amazon for a couple bucks more.

There's a pretty helpful tutorial here, using Fusion:

My first attempt came out spot-on, no issues. Relatively quick and easy. This was my first one, the logo for my podcast:

IMG_4762 (resized).JPGIMG_4762 (resized).JPG

#6172 47 days ago
Quoted from Cwells3290:

This is how I mount the led’s strips into light boxes. I also put some reflective duct tape on back panel, not sure if it helps but it can’t hurt. If you want more light you can easily run another row of led’s.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have done the foil tape thing on a few and for sure it helps even out the "halo" that comes with perimeter lighting these lightboxes. One day when I was taping up a box I thought "shit, I'm already doing multicolor printing, why not just print that inner face white?!?" Easy to do with Bambu's "fill" tool, so that's what I do now. The white rear wall works fine, not sure I can tell a difference on a completed lightbox between foil and white printed back face.

3 weeks later
#6378 24 days ago
Quoted from Gunner007:

Any one have key chain fobs to hang on the coin door?

I made some for Godzilla, Bond, Foo and AFM. But my AFM just uses the Bally logo I have another file with Godzilla in english and originally printed in a couple different color combos for coin door and backbox.

I ended up switching everything to thumb locks so any more they're really just for backbox keys.

IMG_4979 (resized).JPGIMG_4979 (resized).JPG

#6379 24 days ago
Quoted from CurtisC:

Kolk1 thanks for making the video...
i still really like your carpet.

@kolk1's carpet doesn't match the drapes, I hear...

#6381 24 days ago
Quoted from altan:

Strong argument for AMS here...

I guess? I printed these on an X1C with two AMS. I just decided I didn't need the layer waste and I liked the dimension of having the logos stand proud, so I printed them with a single layer change. But for sure, easy pickins to do as a single piece with colors printed in place.

#6389 22 days ago
Quoted from Gunner007:

Those are great.
I just thought they would look good hanging from the key on the coin box.

Shoot me a message if you'd like the files, I'm happy to share. Super quick and easy prints the way I did them.

#6397 20 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

Yes. Set it to generic tpu and update the retraction to 7 or 7.5. Print. Priline and some other tpu will feed through the ams and in my experience will also print in sport mode with no issue.

Feels like a dumb question but not seeing it in the filament profile info - Where does this retraction setting get entered in Bambu/Orca?

#6399 20 days ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

click on the edit button next to the filament you have chosen and go to setting overrides

Ahhh, the whole damn thing is retraction settings. Got it. Retraction length from 0.4mm -> 7mm? For stringing I assume?

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