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I don't think the designer has posted it on here, but this stand up target stabilizer is a great little design. It's worked perfectly for my Deadpool 'SNIKT" target to keep it where it is supposed to be.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038
Remix for anti-lean targets
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5157940
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Quoted from bigguybbr:I don't think the designer has posted it on here, but this stand up target stabilizer is a great little design. It's worked perfectly for my Deadpool 'SNIKT" target to keep it where it is supposed to be.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3022038
Remix for anti-lean targets
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5157940
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Not to knit pick, but I think those are standup target stabilizers.
My brain can’t use words on my days off 
Fixed my post
Quoted from John_I:The new anycubic printer looks nice. I would like to see how the direct drive does for stringing on certain parts that I have trouble with on my Ender 5 pro.
https://www.anycubic.com/products/kobra
I’m using the anycubic vyper. It’s been great for me.
Quoted from RobF:I used the exact same model on my DP and the damn SNIKT target went back to the leaning-target-of-pizza... Although strangely enough, I seem to have gotten a decent feel on how to hit it, so I REALLY don't want to touch it now.
I’ll have to see how it goes. It was way out of wack before I started
Quoted from Jigs:I'm not finding a mini prusa available right now. I'm looking at the Anycubic Vipers. I ultimately want to play and explore.
Thanks for the responses, they are very helpful.
I picked up a Vyper as my introduction into FDM. I've been very happy with it. The learning curve is very shallow and you are up and successfully printing in no time.
Quoted from Jigs:I didn't need a big print bed, so I went with a Kobra... should I have stuck with a Vyper?
*Edit I had it wrong. The Kobra max build plate dimensions are larger than the Vyper. The Kobra is only slightly smaller than the Vyper*
Vyper - 245 x 245 x 260 mm
Kobra - 222 x 222 x 252 mm
Kobra Max- 400 x 400 x 450 mm
Quoted from Jigs:The Kobra I ordered is 220x220x250mm
The Kobra Max says it's 45 x 40 x 40 cm
You are completely right! I was confused. Thank you for the correction. I'll edit my original post
Quoted from Viggin900:How is the PEI sheet working? I am tired of waisting time with rafts. Everything else U have tried lifts up on me. Thanks
The PEI build plate on the Vyper has been great for PLA. I can print most things without a brim or raft.
It didn't help on my last attempt at ABS where it still curled on a long narrow section I tried to print.
Not sure if this was posted in here, but the handle for the playfield on AIQ is a nice quick print.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4774832
pasted_image (resized).pngOn a side note, it there anyway we could get some key posts marked in here so it is easier to find the prints others have made available in this thread easier to find?
Quoted from mjalexan:Sorry for the dumb question, I'm new to modern Stern and AIQ...Do you have any pictures of this installed?
Sorry, I didn't snap any pictures when I did it. Here is a picture of the stock metal one on a TMNT (stolen from the Mezel Mods install guide for their character select RGB ramp lights)
pasted_image (resized).pngI remixed one of the speaker spacers on thingiverse to make a left speaker mounting bracket for Stern Spike 2 home pins. Made it for Jurassic Park, but should work for Star Wars too.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5385687
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Quoted from CaptainNeo:what software is easiest to learn to do your 3d images for creating things?
I used Autodesk Fusion 360. It's free for home use, and is a full featured CAD solution. There are a million tutorials out there for it, and it is very powerful.
If you have never modeled anything before, it is worth watching some tutorials to understand some basics to make your life easier and to make better models. Understanding things like constraints, extrusions, revolving a profile, patterns, etc. can make life a lot easier.
Lastly when you design a model, remember to keep your tolerances as loose as you can to have the part still work as intended. It's annoying to print a part and have to sand it down or do a lot of post processing to have it interface properly with whatever it is supposed to fit onto. Regardless of your print settings there is always a little bit of error in the path of the hot end, so it is never perfect.
Quoted from jrpinball:I'm not sure if this has been covered before, but I just bought the last one of these from Pinball Resource. Doesn't look like it would be difficult to 3D print it.
It's used on woodrail pins; mostly 1954 models with the "double award" feature.
[quoted image]
That would be pretty easy to model with some basic dimensions. It wouldn't be as nice and smooth unless it was done with resin though
Has anyone modeled a shim for stern stand up targets to prevent air balls? I’m getting a ton off the sanctum target on AIQ
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:edit - I thought you were looking for the supports to prevent target leaning.
I remember someone having a small wedge like spacer under the standup to angle it forward. I'll model my own, but thought I remembered someone having one
Quoted from bigguybbr:I remember someone having a small wedge like spacer under the standup to angle it forward. I'll model my own, but thought I remembered someone having one
I finally found what I was thinking of, and it is something someone is selling in here. I'll have to just make them myself.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1377-hippies-haven/05733-anti-airball-target-bracket-wedge
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from CaptainNeo:are those actually effective? Seems like something at the top of the target from allowing it to move back, would be more effective on not making it a ramp when the ball hits.
I think all the different products try to lean the target forward to keep the angle of incidence in plane when struck. Where most of the targets fail is that the backing support gets deformed and the foam compressed so it allows the target to point away from the playfield as it is displaced, angling the ball up and away from the surface of the playfield.
It's probably just as effective to bend the target backing forward every now and again.
Quoted from Jamwin:can anyone recommend a user friendly 3D design platform for a beginner? Specifically, if I want to draw up something and 3d print it, what would be the best way to go about doing it for a novice? thanks in advance.
That question gets asked a lot. The most user friendly free option is probably tinkercad, but it's not very powerful.
I would suggest watching some youtube how-to videos to get some fundamental understanding and see if the process is for you. Learning some 3d design fundamentals goes a long way to being successful in creating something to be printed.
Quoted from PeterG:I catch the led light of the mode. Which in attract modes just flickers, while in game it is off untill the mode is played. Then it is lit solid. I only want it to activate if it is lit solid. Also looked at another light that would not be on in attract mode but there is none, all lights are on. So cannot do an if this and this then that statement.
So I would like it not to trigger it while flickering and only trigger it while lit solid for e.g. 1 or 2 seconds delay but that would be the variable to tweak for me.
You could tie a simple potentiometer input into the arduino to allow you to "dial" in your delay value until you get the desired behavior.
I’m currently waiting on Anycubic to send me a new filament sensor for my Vyper. It died mid print on me.
Quoted from Crile1:A couple more mods. Another wonderful paint job on Bag End by my daughter.
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Your daughter does some nice work!
I threw together some of the grav charge flasher covers for my mando this week.
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Compared to what's in the show:
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Kevin_LHeureux:Those are likely the same ones that are on thingiverse. I made of bunch of them for my and friends games as well. They do fit though they need to be sanded out a small amount in the center as they are a bit snug initially.
That’s what I found. Likely the modeler set too tight a tolerance. I had to bore them out a little but now they have a nice snug interference fit so no fasteners needed.
Quoted from Zzap:Here's a few of the parameters of eSun PLA+ to give you an idea of how the properties of 3d filament can be measured.
Density(g/cm3) 1.23
Heat Distortion Temp(℃,0.45MPa) 53
Melt Flow Index(g/10min) 5（190℃/2.16kg）
Tensile Strength(MPa) 63
Elongation at Break(%) 20
Flexural Strength(MPa) 74
Flexural Modulus(MPa) 1973
IZOD Impact Strength(kJ/㎡) 9
Those are great starting points to understand the material and are needed if you are going to try to do a finite element analysis of your model. If you are looking for values in lb/in^2 (psi) , 1 mega pascal (MPa) is roughly 145 psi.
Your part is also going to be greatly influenced by the geometry, such as if you are creating stress concentrations that will create failure points. What are the loading conditions of the part? Is it under tension, compression, is there a torque or bending moment being applied? Will the part move? How is it supported? These are all important in determining how strong your part is and weather it will fail.
How your print is printed, such as line height, nozzle temp and size, in fill pattern and percentage of fill, etc will have an impact on the final part strength.
If you want to know more about material properties and how they are tested, Wikipedia has some good entries that cover some of what you would learn in a 100 level strength of materials class in engineering school.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultimate_tensile_strength
Quoted from mbwalker:I'm not sure how you translate those numbers into something more meaningful in real world applications. Just a WAG, but I assume these are standardized tests. But maybe you can use the numbers to at least compare between filaments.
These are indeed standardized tests. It was actually one of the more fun classes you take as an ME, since there is actually a hands on component. If you are interested in how material properties are tested, check out this video.
Quoted from koji:I don't know why.. I just couldn't get vader out of my head...
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I feel a little too nerdy with how much I enjoyed that
Quoted from pb456:Would it be possible to create an index with parts people are willing to share? I think it would be fantastic.
I think you need a mod to mark key posts
Just added some dummy drop target banks on thingiverse for playfields being used all wall art to help fill the empty holes.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5487586
C773BB54-D57C-423C-AFE8-66E26594BCCD (resized).jpegI built a helper post for Star Wars for that hungry left outlane.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5625687
Screenshot 2022-11-12 155626 (resized).jpgQuoted from SlapDrain:Streamed building a set of diy “Pinstadium X-Stream” lights last night. Highlights a technique you can use to connect a multi-part 3d print as well.
https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1651198495?t=416s
Nice. The welding of parts together with some filament and a soldering iron is a novel approach. Thank you for sharing!
Quoted from DavidCPA:Really cool. Can you show this installed? I have a Pro and I am a bit confused on where it goes other then near the left outlane.
It’s for the left outlane. I had issues where it would drain when auto plunging. This helps stop that, and makes the left outlane the same size as the right.
4F87D4AC-0010-44D8-8884-C261D8E5E767 (resized).png6504F856-E96C-46B7-AC20-9ED99666488A (resized).jpegQuoted from pete_d:That's really cool. Some might complain about modifying the game difficulty, but hey it's your game, and anyway, who can complain about adding an R2D2 to the playfield. I guess the basic idea behind this mod is not unusual for owners of the game anyway.
I guess the rubber ring takes most of the heat when the ball hits it, but still I'm curious if you have an expectation about longevity for the part, and what material you printed it with. Also, what size ring are you putting on it? FWIW, would be nice if you added details like that to the Thingiverse page.
There are already some similar post versions for this game on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4857256) to address what many other would consider a geometry problem with the game, i.e. auto plunger throws the ball directly into the right outlane and drains. It’s for use in a home environment so I’m not worried about the change in difficulty. It’s printed with eSun PLA+ With a 0.1 line height and 100% infill but someone could just as easily print print it with ABS or high strength resin if they so choose. I haven’t bothered to do an SN calculation or an FEA on such a small part to find out the cycles to failure. In a home environment it should last for years of normal use since it’s not really in a spot that takes a beating.
Added 17 months ago:I forgot to add there is a 5/16" ring on there. I used silicone because that's what I had laying around.
Added 17 months ago:I also meant to say it plunges into the left outlane.
Quoted from phillyfan64:My friend printed this from Thingiverse. Can this be modified to make it a little taller? That’s not the original switch or wire lugs so it’s really too tight the way it is. It pinches the wires.
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Just out of curiosity, have you considered soldering directly to the switch terminals rather than using those crimp connectors? That’ll give you all the clearance you need.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:It looks like there is a 3D model in the VPX game - this should be able to be exported and converted to an .STL for printing
I think some may have tried to export those before, but they are usually too low res to work well. Textures help with a lot of the visuals on VPX tables.
I made a couple of super quick prints for Rush. I hate looking at the bare bayonet sockets, or the color bands on the LED bulbs. These print quick and are just an interference fit over the bulbs.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5851327
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Added 14 months ago: I edited the thingiverse post to add a base from inspired by @Xdetroit. Looks great printed in gold silk PLA.
Quoted from marioparty34:The link on thingiverse doesn't work. Could you please re-upload.
Thanks!
Probably would have helped if I published it and didn't just save it 
Quoted from Soulrider911:Do Work son! Love my new sign, wiring was a PIA but it was worth it to get the led order right. Note: it’s in the middle of an animation sequence, thus the colors
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I keep reading that font as “Do Wonk”
Any Bond Pro owners in here? I'm a little stuck trying to think of a good way to mount this die cast Dragon tank in the same spot as on the premium, while keeping the whole thing non destructive. Anyone have any ideas? There is a central screw post, but I don't have a good way of securing it . I tried to model up a custom base that would snap on to the plastic, but that didn't really work well.
Quoted from toyotaboy:Drill a hole in the side facing away from the player, 3d print a bracket (or find a metal L-bracket from the hardware store) and screw it in. Not a lot of ways to be non-destructive to the toy itself unless you're gonna like epoxy a flat bracket underneath.[quoted image]
I wonder if a better approach would be to print a replacement for the plastic itself. That would allow me to reorient the LED for that target to make the ‘mouth’ of the tank blink, and I can secure it using the threaded stud on the bottom of the model and using the existing mounting points for the plastic.
Makes me wish I had a laser cutter so I could do it out of acrylic rather than FDM.
IMG_4703 (resized).jpegQuoted from Viggin900:There are a couple of options on the Bond thread but you just have to open the tank up and drill a hole for the screw. I added a light inside the mouth of mine. It's easy.
I'll check that out. Thanks!
Quoted from Sorokyl:you guys know that there are communities dedicated to 3d printers?? 95% of the discussion here has nothing to do with pinball. I thought this thread was about 3DP applications to pinball. which 3d printer is best or should I buy this printer is a really generic question that doesn't have much to do with pinball? (example of related appropriate question: "What material that I can print on my __ would be best for printing things that get bashed by a pinball")
I just get excited when I see 100 new posts here thinking "oh maybe there's something cool discussion happening related to pinball or some new design". Nope.
I think the thread started that way and slowly morphed into what it is today where there is a lot of discussion about printers and set up for how best to make what we want. I still post links in here when I make a shareable design for pinball, or even happen upon a good one that is freely available. It was a bit of a Bambu love fest for a bit there, but it seems to be back to shop talk again.
If you do have a question, ask it here. The thread is usually pretty helpful answering anything from pro to newbie questions
Quoted from JakePG:If anybody has any pictures of their 3d printed toppers on their machines, would you mind posting some (if allowed in this thread)?
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