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Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
Not posted on Thingiverse?
Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
I will search the Godzilla threads, see what I can find.
Quoted from vestaviascott:Great thread! I'm looking for STL file for:
- Stern Fire Button Surround Plate (Fire & Select, Punch It)
- Stern Godzilla Premium placard badge (Above left speaker grill) - or any Stern LE placard.
Found the one image.
download (2) (resized).jpegQuoted from herg:Is anyone, preferably local, interested in a used Prusa MK3S at a significant discount? If so, send me a PM. I have found that I just don't use it since building my Voron.
I hate that word local, arghhhh, but I get shipping it would be expensive. I am getting ready to buy this exact printer.
Ken
Quoted from herg:It would be expensive, and I'm really not sure how I'd pack it. I bought as a kit, and since it's built now, it is much trickier. I'd also like the buyer to be able to inspect before buying since it does have some wear.
If you buy new now, you'll get the MK3S+. I haven't done the + upgrade to mine. I'm having a tough time putting a price on it. The used prices I see seem higher than I'd want to pay myself, but I do have some extras that I could put with it (extra build plate, Pi Octoprint, camera).
Yeah, I get it. I do love the local deal. Someone is gonna get a deal no matter what the price.
Quoted from Soulrider911:+1 on Bambú the more i read the more it seems they are onto to something magical. I’m about to cancel my pre-order spot for a prusa xl and get a bambu
The Prusa XL is nice(on paper) with the larger bed and the tool changer, but that initial pricepoint, I don't know, Bambu kinda dialed it in for all the features it has right out of the box and it is delivering.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Now can someone clearly explain/illustrate performing color changes by layer in Bambu Studio. For example:
.2 to .8 mm = color 1
1 to 1.6 mm = color 2
1.8 to 2.4 mm = color 3
I am just starting in Bambu Slicer, so bare with me but is it not in the Paint Bucket, Layers option, then choose Height range? Or is that something diffefent all together.
I would think there would be a way to view layers like what you describe instead of manually painting.
Quoted from Kevin_LHeureux:I’m not home to look but it is in the paint tool menu. BL has a wiki that explains the slicer in detail. Here’s the page on multicolor.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/multi-color-printing
There are a ton of resources on the BL webs and I’m sure you can get quicker answers there for about all the little details. Any printer and software is going to have advantages and drawbacks compared to another and BL certainly isn’t perfect but they are always improving.
It is easy to just select the height and then paint, then stop, but it would also be nice to just grab the individual layer and work the color in. Again, going to have to do more web searching.
Quoted from Xdetroit:Well, I finally got the topper together. Still need to add the music LEDs to the back but I’m super stoked at the results!
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Super Impressive!
Quoted from Anony:Sounds like an opportunity to write a program that takes a gcode file and steps through the print head movements so you can insert a filament swap exactly where you need it. Then it would be easier to do multi colors on the same layer without running into print head issues.
Might get a little messy if you need to do a lot of swaps but it would be neat to try.
In Bambu slicer, I believe what you are referring to is called a "pause" moment" for the gcode. Not sure how other slicers handle this. I have only just started using Bambu.
Quoted from Anony:I could be wrong but in both Cura and Slic3r you can add a pause but only at the start/end of a layer. I am not aware of any way of inserting a filament change in the middle of a layer other than manually going through the gcode and inserting it exactly where you need it.
Ok, so it the same way then, manually as well. Bambu makes us Pause and re-slice each time. Your idea would be much simpler with gcode.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Just received shipment notification from Bambu. ETA is this Friday, but I assume it will be late as the entire city is shut down due to ice until it starts to melt sometime tomorrow.
Good News.
Quoted from Sleal16:Nice! Was about to print this file once the x1c arrived (seems to have just disappeared in UPS limbo it seems). Did you go full hollow or partial?
I feel your pain, my X1C is MIA since being fulfilled.
Quoted from Anony:Wow you're not lying, delivery estimate is pushed back to april for the x1 carbon now.
I just made it, mine arrives Tuesday.
Quoted from Sleal16:Woo!
I think some of the stuff I've trying to print might not have been geared for FDM. even slicing takes 20+ minutes on my mac (a little faster on my windows box). But still trying to print large complex files at .08, so I'll try a few more adjustments to see where I'm hitting the wall.
I am hoping the Bambu solves some of the issues you describe with their hotends and software/gcode.
Quoted from hoby1:That’s what I’m wondering ….. the candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long.
I’m waiting to see how serviceable and how long term reliability is
Their software is proprietary so if the company folds so does support.
Wanna pull the trigger but I think I’ll wait a year or two to see how things unfold
I follow a few Print Farm people and so far it seems very good for service from Bambu and from a DYI. The Bambu community seems, especially on TikTok is always sharing tips.
Quoted from rhampo:I have had my X1C for about 3 months and have had zero maintenance. Literally zero.
One time, the filament broke off in the tubing near the extruder, and it took me a total of 3 minutes to clear it out. Loosen a few screws, manually push a piece of filament in behind the broken piece and run the extruder until it flushed. Then reassemble.
I have been printing almost nonstop since I got it. It prints PLA, PETG and ASA perfectly.
My only complaint is that I wish they would supply a non-stick smooth bedplate. Most of my prints are using the textured PEI plate, but if I want smooth I have to use glue stick on the coldplate or hotplate. I have seen a few 3rd party smooth non-stick plates online but all seem to be out of stock.
Cheers!
Buy a piece of mirrored glass for non-stick
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Not sure how you are doing it or if this addresses your workflow, but here is what I do:
- Slice file in Bambu
- Top right change "Print Plate" to "Send All" then click "Send All" button to bring up dialog to transfer gcode file to SD card in printer via WiFi
- Now you can go to the printer, touch the folder icon on the screen (select SD card if not already), and you will see all of your files. Cool thing from here is that you can now designate which filament(s) to use in the AMS by clicking on screen even if the colors you sliced with are different than what you have in the AMS to print with.
As an alternate step, once you slice you can File > Export > g-code and save file locally for later reference.
BTW, I too am coming from using Prusu Slicer exclusively for the last few years (I started when it was Slic3r). After spending a week on the Bambu, I'm now extremely comfortable with it, and all of the same settings are there and more from what I can tell (some settings are in different locations).
For your bridging, try comparing the bride settings to that of Prusa and make corresponding adjustments. I've done prints with 80mm bridges and they come out equally to my Prusa quality. I also cloned the support settings I used in Prusa Slicer, and things seem to be working better on that front now.
Thanks, this is a nice bit of information. I just inserted an SD card today and was sending files .
Quoted from Kkoss24:Very happy with what Mr Tantrum has come up with .I will post pictures here when complete ,both top and bottom sides .
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Nice, someone did that for Ghostbusters Scoleri clear targets but never incorporated a shield on the bottom.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Printing my first model ever with tree supports. Curious how it will turn out.
Not a fan of them, but some 3D makers swear by them. They are application dependent IMO, but I have yet to find a need for them. Hope they work for you, take some pics and post here.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Tree supports are looking good 75% into the print. This is a 7.5" Titansaurus for a customer. I printed it in pieces as recommended but I hated the gaps in the model when assembled. As long as they breakaway without damaging the small details of the model, I'll be very happy.
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Do you go into the slicer and paint where you wanted the supports? Me personally, I prefer to pick where my supports go when I have large prints and I want to hide them.
That print looks great!
Quoted from Anony:It might take less time but it would make more mess and wouldn't work as well. I suck with wood haha.
Maybe this is my chance to start a new business... some way for people to sell users a file and have it securely print on their local printer without having to give them access to the STL. Kind of like a DRM that allows the person a certain number of prints of an object before having to buy more.
Wanna do a Patreon Partnership, we could learn together lol
Quoted from Aurich:Sharing files is hard. I never share my digital files for my art unless it's something designed to be free, because once something is out there you can never really take that back. So I get it.
I try and balance sharing things freely with designing exclusive stuff that I sell.
Smart, You create it, you own it, especially in the art world. All artists deserve to be paid for their talents.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:It was a full hot end tear apart job. Two issues: filament stuck/lodged in very top of hot end even after heating to 300 and trying to clear from nozzle upward. For this, I had to heat a small wire I had and insert it down through the top of the hot end (fully removed from system). Letting the wire cool for a few seconds, I then pulled it out with about a 1 inch piece of filament. Other issue was a few mm deformed filament in the extruder assembly (actually in the small clear piece). I had to cut the end of this piece which allowed the filament to then be pulled out from the top end and the deformed piece removed from the bottom side.
Spent over an hour on it this morning trying to diagnose the problem and learning how to disassemble everything and techniques to clear. Now that I know how to do it, next time it will be a 15 minute job at the most.
There are a couple nice add-ons on Printables to help with filament clogs, one for abrasive filaments and one for eliminating the harsh bend coming into the Hot end that Bambu will fix.
https://www.printables.com/model/338073-bambu-x1-ptfe-extruder-bracket-ams-error-fix
Ken
Ken
Quoted from toyotaboy:one time i was working on a project for someone. rather than him paying shipping yet again (back and forth on the design) i sent him the updated files, but not before adding my initials in every part so he can't resell it unless he goes through the tedious task of filling it in with something like meshmixer.
I agree with you here, ya have to make it tougher to remove your footprint.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks, I'll add this to the build.
I saw some other versions, but this looked simple. I may print a tool from steel at work to use while the hotend is warm-ish. My mind is working now.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Printing my first time with the new guide right now (Prusament Galaxy Black PETG).
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I have that version already installed, may try another version if I ever have another clog. Nice choice for the color. I also just installed SoftFever modded software and man do I love it. Just having a seperate Calibration feature is a must.
Ken
20230223_042353 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:Support didn't do much as I had another nozzle clog with it, and I'm thinking the issue has been with my Prusament "galaxy" filaments since they are a little more abbrasive. I actually ended up breaking the support off (I was trying to remove it to clear the jam and it snapped). However, once everything was clearned, I did print an 8 hour job overnight with no issues using standard black PLA.
BTW, you print the part oriented as downloaded without supports but do a 15mm brim.
If that bracket does not help, try this one:
https://www.printables.com/model/309088-bambu-lab-x1-ptfe-minimum-radius-guide
SoftFever is a great modded version of BambuLabs Studio.
https://github.com/SoftFever/BambuStudio-SoftFever
You can tweak so many more settings if you are familiar with other slicers right within BambuStudio. They have nice tutorials.
Quoted from Desmodromic:What's the proper orientation to print that PTFE tube guide? When I drop it into the slicer it stands up on end. Not sure the swivel groove will print well with that internal overhang, at least not with the way the X1 bridges.
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Seems like it really wants to print this way, although the outside of the swivel end will be messy without supports?[quoted image]
I would use Tree support, see my pic.
AMS Tube (resized).PNGQuoted from Desmodromic:Thanks for this, I ended up printing the curved version instead. I printed it in Overture clear PETG. My first attempt at printing PETG on the Bambu and it printed clean and like a champ. I used the Engineering Plate with no prep, just wiped with IPA. Stuck just fine and was easy to remove when cooled. 32 minute print using the Generic PETG settings with a 15mm brim. I haven't encountered the error, but it was a quick/easy print and good preventive measure. No supports needed with the curved design, and with the extruder slot printed vertically, it came out clean.
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Looks great, getting ready to print one soon in PETG with 3DF Filament in White Marble
Quoted from johninc:I run Atomic Filament PETG at 250/90. I switched to a roll of Overture PETG and forgot to change temps, and it printed perfectly, so I left it at that.
That's the ballpark for PETG for me for most brands I run. Usually 245 +/- 10 and 80 +/- 10 and my prints come out solid. I do run part cooling, but that is a learning curve for the 1st few prints, at least it was for me.
Just printed this PTFE Guide for my Bambu X1C in PETG with 3DF Filament, came out nice.
PTFE Tube (resized).jpgQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:After having my Bambu for a couple of weeks now, I wasn't happy with the tool caddy that I had remixed. I like to have a particular set of tools at the ready, so I want them to all fit in the caddy and be convenient to access. I spent a little time redesigning, and happy with what I came up with (printing now, so we'll see when it is done).
This tool caddy holds the following:
- Needle nose pliers (used for removing supports)
- Flush cutters
- X-Acto Knife
- Tweezers
- Small semi-circle recessed area for holding loose screws when working on things
- Both included hex wrenches (will extend slighly over right edge for easy removal
- Glue stick
- Nozzle clearing tool tube
- Small phillips & standard srewdrivers
- Two large compartments for holding misc. parts/accessories
- Area for holding filament clips (added ramp to front for more easily sliding out clips)
Once I print and test everything, I will update my model on Printables if anyone is interested in making one for themselves.
.2mm layer height
15% infill
165g of filament
4h31m print time
[quoted image]
I can test print one.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:After having my Bambu for a couple of weeks now, I wasn't happy with the tool caddy that I had remixed. I like to have a particular set of tools at the ready, so I want them to all fit in the caddy and be convenient to access. I spent a little time redesigning, and happy with what I came up with (printing now, so we'll see when it is done).
This tool caddy holds the following:
- Needle nose pliers (used for removing supports)
- Flush cutters
- X-Acto Knife
- Tweezers
- Small semi-circle recessed area for holding loose screws when working on things
- Both included hex wrenches (will extend slighly over right edge for easy removal
- Glue stick
- Nozzle clearing tool tube
- Small phillips & standard srewdrivers
- Two large compartments for holding misc. parts/accessories
- Area for holding filament clips (added ramp to front for more easily sliding out clips)
Once I print and test everything, I will update my model on Printables if anyone is interested in making one for themselves.
.2mm layer height
15% infill
165g of filament
4h31m print time
[quoted image]
Almost need to add some build plate holders on that back side, like 2-4 slots perhaps?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:That's not going to work sitting in front of the AMS. I just have a built plate holder I remixed that I set to the side of it (holds 3 plates). Happy to share if anyone is interested.
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gothcha, I have my holder on the opposite side of my caddy.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Bambu tool caddy just finished printing. Not bad for a prototype, but I need to make a few small adjustments.
- hobby knife is too close to flush cutters making it more difficult to access cutters than it should be
- hobby knife hole is a little tight
- I didn't overhang the hex wrenches enough to make it easy to lift them out
- I assumed the hex wrenches had actual 90 degree bends - they don't so I need to accommodate for this so they will sit flat (just elongate the hole the short end goes down into)
- The little cutout at top I expected to use for holding loose screws is to small to be practical. Good, because I need that extra space to spread the tools out a little more on that top row.
[quoted image]
Let me know if ya need me to do a test print, that looks really solid.
Ken
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Just finished new version where I made the hole size adjustments and spread out the tool holders for easier access.
If you want to give it a try, you can download from here: https://www.printables.com/model/400651-bambu-carbon-x1-ams-top-tool-storage
Will be my next Print job on the X1 soon, thanks.
Quoted from GeekedOnPinball:Hey all... I have a few Bambu X1-C printers now... If you hate the glue... get a bottle of Nano Polymer from amazon. Apply it once, let dry, about 50 prints before you will have stuff peeling off the bed (that indicates to wash and reapply).
The nano polymer doesn't leave marks like the glue sticks. I use this on all of my print plates, even high temp. Works great for all filaments so far for me, PETG, ASA, PLA, specialties like carbon fiber, etc.
Sold my other five printers now... waiting on a large format Bambu to compete with my Voron.
amazon.com link »
It is the glue I use and it is worth every penny.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Price per ounce seems weird. Go with either the 50ml or 120ml but stay away from the 100ml bottle. I will say that I don't even use the cold plate anymore. The high temp plate has performed flawlessly for me with PLA & PETG with never coating it with anything. I just use high concentration IPA every few prints to wipe the plate (mainly when I see grease from my fingers in print areas).
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Also, 2x AMS is arriving this Friday. Looking forward to setting it up. Also, I've added a few more filament types to my stash so happy to free up some storage space.
I buy it directly from their site. It is a nice glue to have and it will save your plates.
Kudos on the 2X AMS, Not ready for that, just yet, maybe summertime.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Finally got the FF alien printed. Did it in 6 colors on my Bambu Carbon X1. What I will say is that it came out pretty nice, but took over 9 hours and the filament change waste was quite excessive for such a small model.
As most of you know, the close-up camera shows all of the details but a distance of a couple of feet or further the model looks really good.
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Looks nice, but Resin is the way to go for sure. Unless you could find other models to print to flush that waste into, I can't see doing it on an mmu setup.
Quoted from Miguel351:Went and brought my files to be printed to the high school where my friend teaches. The place was freaking awesome! I was SO jealous of the machinery, and the skills and abilities these kids are learning there. Between the woodshop, the CNC mills and routers, all the welders, the laser cutters, 3D printers of all kinds, and I'm sure plenty other stuff I didn't get to see on my tour, you could easily make a pinball machine from scratch there. My eyes were bugging out of my head. I was trying to figure out a way to enroll myself there!
Anyway, I see the 3D printers all along the counter on one side of a room that's filled with all manner of machinery and even a few Caterpillar driving simulators and think about what materials they've got in them and how long a single part is going to take. Then he turns me around and shows me the actual printer he's going to print my stuff on. It's the size of a damn refrigerator! It's a StrataSys F370, which I now know is a beast of a printer. He goes and checks the filament drawer to see what's in it, and it's got ABS ready to go. Then we bring up the parts in his slicer and not only does he offer to print all four parts I bought(I only really needed one pair of the two), but he's able to print all of them in ABS at 80% infill. The print took 5hrs 29min. I'll pick them up from his house sometime this weekend.
I don't know if I was more stunned by his generosity or the printer my parts were printed on and how they're going to turn out. I can't wait to get them and test them out. Here's a pic of that printer that I'm sure some of you will drool over. Trust me, the rest of their shops there were filled with all manner of equally impressive machinery from all the top manufacturers. Oh, the things I could build there in a weekend......
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We have a StratsysF900 and I would welcome tradespersons or engineers who learned at this level on these amazing machines and then enter the manufacturing world ready to go or with very little learning curve. So happy to see this happening at the high school level.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Cactus canyon gulp, complete with bullet holes [quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice work, love the added touches.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Besides speed, the main thing the Bambu has going for it for my personal use are the AMS units (I have two of them). I do multi-color prints almost daily, and I can't tell you how much time and effort this has saved me. I was happy just doing colors by layers with my Prusa, but I always had to monitor it, set alarms, etc. so I could perform the manual filament changes when required (yes, I know Prusa has a 5 color MMU, but it is nowhere close in performance to the Bambu chainable AMS units). With the Bambu, I just set my colors (I now do a ton of true multicolor prints), start the print and don't worry about monitoring it.
I'm a Prusa fan for life given my experience with them and continue to recommend their printers (I still by Prusament filament on a regular basis), but for 3D printing needs I have now the Bambu is just a better tool for me.
I agree the Bambu is a great unit and the AMS units kill it. Bambu support is gonna need to step it up, so time will tell with that. Have had a few issues and so far, 50/50 with results whereas Prusa always came thru 100%. I do like how the community is supporting the Bambu AMS unit with the Hydra print and the Orca Slicer is a game changer feature wise. Kudos to Prusa on the Mk4, I hope it sells well, their filament is reliable and performs as stated.Just my nickles worth.
Quoted from Xdetroit:I’m totally addicted to 3D printing lol. Here is my Foo Fighters topper. I still have to tuck some wires back and glue it together but I’m happy with the results.
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I need to commission you for an Oktoberfest topper. Not a fan of the one on the current game.
Ken
Quoted from Xdetroit:We can figure something out! Send me a message and we can share some ideas.
I will do that this weekend. Thank you.
Quoted from Anony:Relevant to all of the print speed discussion. It has some tips for getting better quality on the bambu printers, it seems like the default configs might be running a little fast for optimum print quality.
I have zero issues with the Bambu hotends I just dial in my settings, especially for top layers. Or just slow the speeds down at the end. This nozzle could have some benefit, but the hardened nozzles seem to be very effective already once a complte calibration of your filaments are completed. Just my opinion.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I concur with this 100%.
However, if you are printing mechanical parts then adjustments to home in optimal settings is to be expected.
The video is worth watching, I did like the stress testing.
Quoted from toyotaboy:do you want to go faster? raise your hand if you want to go.. faster
..and over the cliff we go lmao
Quoted from mattosborn:Those are made out of Delrin, and for good reason. I would not try to print those. They seem like a bargain at $25.
Those could be modified to add TPU, now that Cura slicer has added a new feature to mix materials.
Quoted from RobF:I can't help it
How about this....It would be an easily justifiable project for nothing else than something to practice cad design on. But I think coming up a design that is a cover over the metal rail would be more interesting and less risky. I mean, do you really want to be testing strength limits of your PETG part with the weight of your unsecured playfield standing strait up 7 feet in the air?
Hell yes!! Risk an injury and maybe an amulance ride. Lol
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Going to buy the bambu x1 carbon - do I want the AMS ? I’ve never done multi color before is it worth it?
Yes.
Quoted from Soulrider911:Scarred stiff pinball gulp prototype in the works. Need to darken the gray a bit. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very Awesome!!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Scarred stiff pinball gulp prototype in the works. Need to darken the gray a bit. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Should try your hand at an Oktoberfest one next.
Quoted from animesuperj:I don't really want to have to tinker. I'd be nice to "setup and go". I don't mind building the kit for the MK4, I enjoy that type of stuff. The open source-ness of Pursa is nice, but Bambu seems to have a slight edge (mabye?) on multi color prints. Pretty much any reading or info I've found people have their camps or favorites; but still say that either would be great. Just hard to make a decision, lol.
Is the Bambu X1 the "equivalent" to the MK4?
Go with the Bambu X1, You will be happy. The Bambu P1P is nice, its just missing the camera and Lidar option, walls, but you can print out your own custom enclosure.
I agree with everyone elses comments, Prusa and Ender are very good just depends on what you are going to do.
Hope you enjoy 3D printing with whatever Rig you go with, cuz you will ultimately want a 2nd one. Lol
Quoted from La4s:I like all the discussionrecently on different printer options. I have looked at the MK4 and Creality K1, but I keep coming back to the Bambu printer line.
Has anyone run into issues since it seems to be such a closed environment software and replacement parts wise?
I am leaning towards the P1P, since I prefer the PEI plate that is textured which does not work with the X1 LIDAR. Is there any other reason to choose the X1 Carbon over the P1P?
You want the X1, color screen, the Lidar is worth every penny, the camera is a nice feature. I know the minute a print starts to fail or starts making Spaghetti, the X1 stops and sends a message to check the print, whereas the P1P w/out Lidar will keep on running filament. The texture plates work fine with Lidar on the X1.
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Here are my settings
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Can we see your Strength settings please?
Did you receive an initial error mesaage on this model about floating regions? Did you create this model?
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:I created this model.
I did get an initial error and If I let the slicer repair then it makes the model completely solid which ruins its intended purpose of having an open cavity for motors.
I’ll upload my strength settings when I get home.
I’ve created a few other models - same concept just different characters - they we’re redesigns of this exact model and they all slice correctly.
I would not repair the "error". Load it as is, then slice it and see what happens, if you have not tried that already.
2nd option may be to add "modifiers" for your motors.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Something definitely weird, but hard to diagnose since I can't actually play with it myself.
Assuming you are using Bambu Studio v01.05.00.61?
What if you change walls from 2 to 4?
What if you change orientation (rotate it along X-axis and try Y-axis even though you won't actually print it that way.
Another option I can think of is to set the model to 100% infill (assuming is slices correctly this way) then you can add modifier blocks at different heights/positions. You can then set the infill on the modifiers (overrides the global infill setting) and see if the model slices differently. You can possibly set infill to 0 on the sections that are slicing correctly but may 15% or some other setting in the middle might cause it to slice correctly.
I am with you on the 100% infill as well.
Quoted from RobF:I ran into a similar looking slicing error recently on BS. Mine was on a known good model that I created and have printed before and seemed very specific to support settings and adding a different support filament to the interface layers. At first I thought it was just a display artifact but confirmed when I tried to print, it actually was screwed up gcode. Since updating to the latest 1.06 beta build, it has gone away. Also maybe try the OrcaSlicer branch and see if it behaves differently.
I wonder what would happen if you cut your model somewhere above where the weirdness starts and only kept the upper half. If it's a model issue, I would expect the artifacts to remain in the exact same place as the full model.
cutting the model in BS could still result in a floating region error if the modifers are not added, but I do see what you are going after and it is worth a shot to try it. Maybe BS is just acting crazy.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Found this remix for a Bambu AMS stand. Came out great in Prusament Galaxy Black PLA. I like this better than the original because it came with the 3D printed bar instead of having to purchase a metal rod. Now I have room for a third AMS unit.
https://www.printables.com/model/431460-updated-bambu-lab-ams-stacking-stand-remix
[quoted image][quoted image]
I agree, the remix is much better with the bar. Nice touch with Galaxy Black. I will printing another one soon for another AMS unit.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I also put rubber feet on the bottom to prevent it from sliding around on top of the cabinet. Sticks in place quite nicely now.
If anyone wants a nice Lighting kit mod for the Bambu X1 to add more light instead of the cheap light from Bambu. I can share the file. Just need to buy a light kit from amazon. Let me share some images. PM me for information.
IMG_8452 (resized).jpegIMG_8453 (resized).jpegLED TOP v2 (resized).pngQuoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Can someone print me this in Red or White as I can always paint it
Please message me
Thank you
https://www.printables.com/model/478592-ghostbusters-pinball-storage-facility-3d-sculpt-mo
PM Sent
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:Can someone print me this in Red or White as I can always paint it
Please message me
Thank you
https://www.printables.com/model/478592-ghostbusters-pinball-storage-facility-3d-sculpt-mo
Printed in PLA plus, came out very nice.
20230520_165726 (resized).jpgQuoted from Desmodromic:What kinds of issues are you guys having with PETG? First layer adhesion issues or warpage or all of the above? I printed some larger PETG stuff as an experiment and saw kinda crazy warpage on long thin parts but had good adhesion to the textured plate.
Woooo lordy, PETG gotta ya stumped? Head over here: https://www.printables.com/model/394395-bambu-studio-orcaslicer-softfever-profiles-for-x1-
Nice config files for Soft Fever's Orca slicer, which is way better than Bambu Studio.
PETG needs heat, and needs to be dialed in, which is easy to throw out there.
Quoted from BobLangelius:I had some first layer adhesion problems so i went to the high temp smooth plate and scuffed it with the scotch-brite, That got rid of first layer problems.
I'm having top layer problems, Bridging seems poor too.
The photos show the x1c with the generic PETG settings and .16mm Layer height in the middle. The part is oriented on the plate as in the first photo.
Warpage is not a problem.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Try printing by Object to avoid bridging problems, may have better luck that way with multiple pieces on the build plate.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm going to disagree with you on this one (with a caveat). If you want to do multi-color by layer printing, it really couldn't be much easier now (when I first started multi-color printing it was via manual g-code injections). Simply right click the layer bar in slicer, click "insert filament change" (or whatever the setting is), generate g-code as you always do, and print away. If using a single filament printer, it will automatically pause and walk you through the filament change (I've done literally thousands of filament swaps on my old Prusa MK3S+ when printing layered multi-color prints). If you are doing something basic, design as you normally would. However, if you are designing a model that is intermediate to advanced, then you'll have to teach yourself to think in terms of printing in color layers when designing your models.
The caveat is if you want to do true multi-color prints, it takes a little more knowledge and configuration, so I would say you should be fully aware of how your slicer and printer work in general before jumping to this type of printing. While the painting tool in the slicers do okay, there are still improvements to be had. There are still models I have that I cannot color correctly using the current slicing paint tools, which leaves me figuring out a different way (e.g. printing in parts and gluing, possibly redesigning, etc.) Also, you cannot intermix using the paint tool and doing layer filament color changes.
I agree, I have been way more successful on the Bambu than with my other printers, plus with Orca slicer, I can dial settings in. I did learn alot with Cura and Prusa slicers, don't get me wrong, however I still find myself lowering my speeds with multi color prints, sometimes fast isn't best.
The learning curve is different for everyone and I appreciate that everyone comes in here and talks about how they approach aspects of modeling.
I know I struggle with pause and insert, but I will get it soon enough. My wish is that all levels of 3D hobbyists keep enjoying the experience.
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:So I have been scouring the internet today to see if there were different solutions to replacing the fiber board on the EM flippers.
I just bought my first machine (Flip Flop) last Friday and over flowing with info.
Has anyone ever 3D printed it for flippers or drop targets and such? Could standard PLA+ hold up?
I did find a really old post about someone fixing it with epoxy, which made me think 3D printing it would work just fine. Looking at newer rebuild kits, they all look to be injection molded plastic.
I pretty much just run PLA+, but I have a spool of PETG and will be getting some Carbon Fiber soon form buying my Bambu Lab P1Ps (I see there are already plenty of people here with BL, great printers). So I can try all 3 styles when I get to the rebuild process. It seems to my that sourcing the rebuild parts solo might be cheaper if I can just print a few of the parts.[quoted image]
Use ASA, we useit in the Auto industry all the time. The heat resistance will be fine for this application.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Here is an illustrated example in Bambu Studio.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Modifiers for the win.
I was thinking, this group is awesome, always helping others. I have a lot of Pinshields on my games and when I take them off, I roll them up and tuck them away. But what if we had a pinshield holder, similar to the Pingulp beverage holder? Or a wall mount version? I am not the best at software yet, so if anyone out there could assist I have a printer to run test prints. Also, I am open to other ideas/feedback on this.
Ken
Quoted from Shredso:I've had my Ender 3 for probably 4 or 5 years. I had it tuned well enough to print little trinkets, some basic mods, and a few very basic self made tools or designs. It hasn't gotten a whole lot of use the last few years. I have the Creality glass bed. It looks like most have moved on to a flexible surface?
My son wants me to print this.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1937590
I've never printed anything even close to that big. I'm a little surprised people are saying they only needed support for #13 and #14. I'm no expert, I've only opened #1 and #2 so far and I don't see how those would print without support.
Any tips on making this happen? Work your way up to a huge project like that is a perfectly acceptable answer, it's kinda what I told him. I've already had one print fail. It could be adhesion, could be old filament. Trying again now.
I think Printables had a better model that wasn't in so many pieces that would be easier to scale and support.
Quoted from Jazman:So I've been struggling to get the box to print... bed adhesion issues. Trying a different plate with different bed temp now so I guess we'll see.
So what is the goal with this puzzle box (ie: what does "solved" mean)? Is it to remove the center core? Separate the 2 halves? In other words, can I hide something in the core and have someone solve it to get the prize?
Are you cooling on the 1st layer(s), using any type of glues, what filament, settings? Need more info for bed adhesion errors.
Quoted from DaddyManD:Hi everyone. My sons and I are building a homebrew machine and ran into an issue where our LCD panel from Pinball life doesn’t quite fit the Stern speaker grill. Lucikly, someone designed a killer 3d print solution and made it freely available on Thingiverse! Trouble for me is that even though the files are pretty basic (4 smalll prints and 2 larger), the two larger files are an inch larger than my Ender 3. So I am stuck. Anyone willing to 3D print the left and right adapter panels for me for a handsome fee?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5938094
I can print it for you. send me a message.
Ken
Quoted from Jazman:I agree that resin may not hold up. PLA may be an issue in an EM because of heat. PLA doesn't have much heat resistance. But there are plenty of other materials that might fit the job.
I would use ASA or ABS for these inserts.
Quoted from mbwalker:I was also worried the FDM accuracy, and maybe resin would be better (and look cleaner). Perhaps the insert could be resin, and rollover itself could be FDM for durability.
Steve Young @ PBR no longer sells rhe rollover insert? Odd since many Goytlieb era games used a similar rollover insert? I had a Gottlieb Flipper Parade that used this style and was able to buy that rollerover. Buy I do trust PBR's knowledge.
Quoted from mstire:Thank you all for your replies. One of these inserts is good enough to get some measurements off it. I would love to mail it to someone if they are willing to make some for me. Best measurement I can get off the plastic insert is 1.145" dia and the hole in the playfield measures 1.181". Looks like the sides are slightly tapered for a wedge fit. I think if they were printed a bit larger in dia I could sand them to fit.
Thanks again for any help.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I am willing to print in ASA, PLA-CF, PLA +, PETG, so if anyone wants to design it, I can assist here.
Ken
Quoted from RikeIsland:Any ideas on what may have caused this layer to separate? Rest of the print looks great but I keep getting random spots like this. I am running an Ender 5 S1. Any thoughts?
[quoted image]
Looks like it skipped part of the layer, but I could be mistaken.
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:Our 3rd one one we ordered (with 2 AMS) prints fine, but the AMS have been problematic with retracting. I got one of the first stage feeders warrantied and now the other AMS is found that same shit. Before we left for vacation our 4th with 2 more AMS showed up, so hopefully those work without issue. ☹️
I feel your pain. I updated one of my AMS units to the Hyrda insert units on the hopes to solve many of the issues and sadly I believe my retraction issues became worse. I lost another first stage feeder, I am hoping that that the improve rear roller desgins I have ready to print will help. I just think the motor on these AMS units is very weak IMO.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:No idea, but I'm curious.
You can now have multi filaments coming in through the hot end is what I am gonna say.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Looks to me less reeling and feeding as the different colors will be right at the head. If it's an entry level as the one video suggests it won't change me adding another p1s but if it finds its way into those or something like those, then it might change things. I'll wait to order until the 20th I guess.
Yes, I could see that as option to speed up print times.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Now that I look at the images more closely, I think it is a flux capacitor. We'll now be able to run our printers off banana peels and spoiled vegetables using the optional Mr. Fusion for those who don't have any plutonium available to them.
I ain't too good at detecting sarcasm up here in the north...lol
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I'm as serious as a time travelling DeLorean.
Lol
Quoted from Anony:I have this one bookmarked from a while ago when someone else recommended it but I haven't gone through it yet so I can't say how good it is.
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrZ2zKOtC_-DJuRQXapOljLBQxAfRoh3S&si=ggrr54EYR6RgI1Qz
The one I used personally was from this guy. He has a series of tutorials that are really good, however fusion has gone through major changes since then so things are not going to look the same
That is who I watch to this day. He keeps it simple. Plus, printout the shortcuts for your keyboard. helps to learn how to use your mouse and keyboard together and if you can, remap buttons if you need to.
Ken
Quoted from DaddyManD:Circling back here to provide an update. A couple of weeks ago I posted here a request for help in printing a file that was too large for our Ender 3. The file is an adapter to fit a Pinballlife/Spooky LCD screen into a Stern speaker housing, which we are using for our Honebrew. Ken eyeamred2u quickly volunteered and printed it over the Labor Day weekend, shipped to me the first business day, and did so at no charge. Just wanted to show the before and after progress we have made thanks to this adapter! LCD is installed snugly and also was then able to install speakers! Will power up LCD in a few days. Ken me and my boys appreciate you and we will pay it forward!
Also please follow our homebrew build where we have leveraged all kinds of 3D printed parts!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/overwatch-homebrew-pinball
[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks amazing and was glad to have a small part in this family project.
Ken
Quoted from Anony:I changed the bulbs in an older machine from incandescent to LED and now I'm getting some light bleeding between the inserts. I'm going to 3d print some baffles to block the light but I'm not sure how to attach them to the underside of the playfield. I think hot glue would work but it's a pain to work with since it strings so much and you need to work fast before the glue hardens.
Other things I'm considering are a silicone adhesive or two sided tape. I have some really strong tape but it's a pain to apply.
Any suggestions?
3M double sided tape, I have used that with success on my pins
Quoted from Anony:I swear I've had rolls that went bad after leaving them out during summer but it's hard to say for sure what happened. I've seen people on youtube do tests where they literally stick a roll of PLA in water and it doesn't seem to do much so I have a feeling the worries about water absorption are overblown.
Not overblown, not to me at least. I use a few different brands of PLA and have seen one brand in particular become brittle if not stored air tight. I like their product, so I learned really quick to bag it.
Just my 2 cents.
Quoted from Anony:Yeah I'm pretty sure I've had the same thing. The roll starts fine and then at some point it either become brittle and breaks in little sections or the print quality goes terrible, I've just not been able to say definitively that it was moisture. Sure seemed like it though
I usually send the roll back to supplier for them to decide. I know when I take it off my AMS and the filament snaps like a dry stick in the hot sun, its got the moisture sickenss. Lol. I will not waste time trying to dry it out been there, done that. Only drying it when it is brand new and recommended.
Quoted from toyotaboy:I have ams on the bambu at work. The rollers are pretty fussy so I've been feeding the cheap filament on the hook in the back. If the spool isn't perfectly smooth it won't retract
Have you tried the better tolerance rollers that are available on Printables. They work great on stock AMS units.
https://www.printables.com/model/563241-ams-rear-rollers-forgiving-tolerances-edition-stoc
Quoted from Desmodromic:Oh, I may have to try this. How should I choose the roller size? Or are there different sizes for the different positions? Looks like there's a 14.5, a 15.5 and a 16.5?
Do you normally use oversized Spools? If so, then print the smallest size. If you use normal size spools, just print standard size. You can go over to the AMS Hydra link to read more.
https://www.printables.com/model/530298-hydra-ams-improved-rear-rollers
Quoted from jrcmlc:Don't feed it through the AMS lol, make sure the inside of the spool is smooth so it rides on the rear spool holder smoothly or it won't feed right, do the flow testing and calibration to get the extrusion right, use a high quality or test various TPU brands until you find what you like, don't try and print it too fast, and even with all that I still get some stringing :-/
What? I respool TPU onto the Bambu spools and run it all the time in my AMS units.
Grab the TPU profiles and use Orca slicer.
https://www.printables.com/model/457260-tpuflexible-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca/files
He has profiles for non Bambu printers as well.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've printed several TPU items and it prints great using the engineering plate. Also, I added this rig to hold the external spool.
[quoted image]
That is a nice external rig, needs some more work to make the skinny spools stable, but in a pinch, I have used it.
Quoted from jrcmlc:LOL it did work fine with the priline TPU with a normal spool. None that I use has the cardboard or weird spools and other than the stringing which I need to figure out otherwise I have hairy prints that need cleaned up, it was good. This is especially timely as I just got an order for 100 sets of TPU playfield supports and having to screw with the external spool(s) was going to suck, now I can just run them like normal. If I ever figure out the hairy thing I will post what fixed it, but I think it's retraction. Thanks for forcing me to try it again eyeamred2u
I don't like TPU personally, but I had to force myself to learn how to use it so I just plugging away and found some users who helped me along and finally found the Printables page and another user from a Discord group I was reading and BAM it all came together. Keep us posted.
Ken
Would someone in the group be willing to make a Start button for Wizard of OZ? I want to create a cool Start button for my machine. I don't see a Step file online and I am still learning Fusion 360, so my attempts were less than perfect for a Stern button.
(Note: Notches on the button are a recess type on the inside of the button).
I uploaded pics of the button dimensions. Thank You.
Ken
20231022_192449 (resized).jpg20231022_192526 (resized).jpg20231022_192541 (resized).jpg
Quoted from RobF:I would encourage you to not give up on it. The best practice is from trying to make something you actually want. I am not sure how you are approaching the modeling, but I see it as pretty much three steps;
- sketch half the side profile off of the z axis line
- rotate the sketch around the z axis
- use shell to hollow it out and to give the desired wall thickness
That will at least get you a button without that notch fairly quickly for test fit.
I always practice in my limited spare time. Thank you for encouragement and steps.
Ken
Quoted from swinks:just sent you a message with a model sketch up
totally agree not to give up but sometimes people need a little guidance on the best way to draw,
you could actually draw the button in 2 steps:
- draw the side profile with your thickness and ring notch
- and then rotate around the centre axis
and then just add the last small notch.
The step with adding shell is very handy but not needed in this case
Thank you to both. I am such a visual learner but once I get the concept, I start to roll.
Ken
Quoted from RobF:Thanks for the added input. Agreed, your description is the better approach, although I would consider drawing the notched ring in a separate sketch later in the timeline and adding a second revolve with a cut operation to the first Sure, it's more steps, but I find this more flexible would make it a ton easier to go back and make adjustments or use as a template for other like designs. The great and sometimes frustrating part of CAD modeling is there are always multiple ways to come to the same final design. The steps I suggested was to meant to simplify things down to basic elements at the expense of accurate reproduction. A couple insights for consideration based on my experience learning F360 over the years.
- One of the trickiest parts for me has been understanding how to correctly constrain sketches for what F360 expects. After the getting the basics down, next was learning how to do this in ways that leads to easy and flexible parametrization with user set variables. In this regard, I was hesitant to suggest sketching the profile shape with thickness and notch ring details as it would be a more complex drawing. Sketching using Offsets seems the natural way to get the shell thickness, but I find this tool tricky when not a simple chained drawing. Sometimes it does weird things (like reversing directions for positive and negative values) and requires each sketch line to be handled separately which makes it a royal pain to go back and change if adjustments are needed. Also, I don't remember for sure but I think Revolve requires full constrained sketch in order to define the element to execute on. Back to my comment, correctly constraining a multi-line sketch might be frustrating to a beginner.
- Shell isn't needed as you mentioned. I find it a forgiving and straightforward tool that at times can be used as a time saver. It's good thing for a beginner to get comfortable with
- I ignored adding in the notch to help speed up prototyping. Sometimes I like to rush to the basics of a design so I can validate general shapes and dimensions. I am also not sure if the ring notch is a functional requirement. Something else I have learned when trying to reproduce a part is that I spent way too much time to get every detail of the original in the model, only to find complex and time consuming details were unimportant.
There is no right or wrong. There are only tips and tricks to pick up along the way to make life a little easier. I always appreciate learning other's approach to solving the same problem.
The revolve is confusing to me, but I am getting there. I forget to add the sketch, but that is my old-ish mind not wanting to remember, lol.
Ken
Quoted from Anony:I made this heart for my Class of 1812 as a fun project to see if I could pull it off. I'm wondering if anyone knows how I can make the flat face rounded like a cartoonish heart would look rather than being flat. Is there a tool in fusion that would do that or would I have to design it differently from the get go?
[quoted image]
I would try the Loft feature
Quoted from BMGfan:THE only real difference between P1S and the X1 is the screen and the lidarr. P1S doesn't come with Hardened gears/hot end for abrasives but they can be added.
I don't have enough enough experience to tell if lidarr is worth it or not yet but all my prints have been flawless. The screen is nice, but I don't know if it's worth the premium when most of my prints have been sent remotely. I know how to level the bed, adjust flow, all the ender 3 skills, but I haven't had to do ANYTHING with this thing at all.
The AMS I highly recommend. Multicolor prints waste a lot and take a shit ton of time if there's a lot of layer changes, but I can't begin to tell you how nice it is have four filaments loaded up. There's no having to go change filament even. Also if you have two of the same material and one roll runs out, it will fail over to the next roll! I don't know if it's worth $350 on its own, but as the combo it 100% is.
As long as the bed is clear I don't even have to walk up to the printer until it's done. Slice, send to the printer, come back a few hours later to an almost perfect print.
Go here to learn about Multicolor prints and flushing filament reduction. It's worth the read.
https://www.printables.com/model/582382-bambulab-profile-for-up-to-60-purge-reduction
Quoted from BMGfan:First ABS print on the bambu. I picked a sys11 drop target for the model. I also tried experimenting with HIPS support interface.
Excellent results overall! No warping. And the Supported surface is flawless, it looks like it was laying flat on the bed![quoted image]
I did have a later adhesion issue on the bottom side of the stop though I kinda expected it.
[quoted image]
I suspect as it stopped to print the hips interface layers the top part of the stop cooled and wasn't able to bond well with the first full supported layer
I print 90% with ABS, I can always test print with my settings to confirm any issues if you want.
Ken
Quoted from jrcmlc:Bambus black Friday info
[quoted image]
P1s is the best deal IMO
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I came here to mention this. P1s seems like a really good deal.
I just bought the A1 as well, so I am contemplating adding a P1s but already have p1p. Thinking of just printing the ARC to enclose my p1p and call it a day.
Was going to buy the A1 then this deal dropped...A1 is off the table now, hello P1s
Quoted from jrcmlc:Here is the priline tpu printing. If I didn't know it was tpu I wouldn't be able to tell from looking, sharp and non hairy lol.
[quoted image]
Wow, that is nice TPU.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I am using a P1P with the textured plate. Adhesion has never been an issue once I learned how to wash it. I do not use anything on it and PETG sticks to it really well.
My issue is mostly ringing, I think the issue is this PETG though. I am on my second roll and I cannot find a setting to get rid of the artifacts. Support has recommended a myriad of different settings and I spent the last 2 months trying things as I intend to print the ARC enclosure but I want it to look good.
Dried filament, calibrated it as well as the printer. Tried A LOT of things.
I managed to get a much better finish before with overture petg in the past, but can't with Bambu Petg Basic. At this point I am blaming the printer. Not sure really.
Full disclosure, I have been printing for only 1 year.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/a4WLVFiuYffutKt68
Have you tried OrcaSlicer and done a Calibration test?
Check out his PETG profiles, might help.
https://www.printables.com/model/455802-petg-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer
Quoted from Kawydud:Reading the above posts, looks like I may be opening a can of worms here. I was going to get myself a Bambu X1, but not sure if that would be the best option anymore. I am fairly new to 3D printing. Bought an Ender 5 plus back in July. Machine printed great once I figured out it wasn't "automatic leveling". (Newbie mistake). But the last 4 weeks the machine just kept stopping saying printer stopped working. Changed cables, updated firmware, ( i had bought the external Creality controller, still kept having issues. Reset the thing back to default, still no luck. After working on it again for hours Friday, I hit my breaking point. (See attached photos)
Anyway, I would like to get a solid machine that print multiple colors, and is rock solid. I know everyone has different experiences with equipment. Just looking to see if I should look at other units besides the Bambu. I only use the machine for hobby things, nothing production.
Thank you[quoted image]
Bambu is fine. Units break, customer service can be bad, all part of the consumer experience unfortunately. I have been there with Bambu, just have to power through it or move on. No judgement by me in any way about any posts. The New A1 is launching soon and should be a great bed slinger if you don't need an enclosed unit.
Quoted from Kawydud:Thanks for the quick response. I was thinking the enclosed unit might be better suited to keep things clean. Was going to take the ride to Mayfield on Saturday and pick up a Bambu. That is the closes Micro Center to me.
I enjoy my X1C, only bcuz I print ABS, etc. I have an A1 mini on the way just so I can do smaller PLA test prints and other stuff.
Once this unit is dialed in and you have your filament profiles dialed in, this unit just performs. I use OrcaSlicer as well.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I was not planning on selling the P1P, it all just unfolded this way as I had an ongoing ticket (still open today) with them. It overlapped with my A1 pre-order since my ticket has been open for 2 months. Because of the upcoming A1 I thought it was wise to leet it go now and I did.
That said, sorry to have to correct you, but for the sake of future readers or someone wanting to get this info later:
The P1P is the exact same machine as the X1, not a whole lot different mechanically. Things such as is the lidar sensor and the enclosure and other cosmetics things that do not interfere with print quality in regards to what is being discussed which are VFA and other resonance aberrations, provided you know what you are doing and calibrate your filaments.
This is not an entry level machine either, just a strip down X1, that is just built different for other reason none of those affecting the print quality. The stepper motors are the same in both as well as all themechanical parts in charge of printing. The lidar is also useless in the X1 when using the textured plate as it interferes with the reading so it would not be used in that case, rendering it a moot point and making it function just like the P series.
I am shocked that Bambu support even keeps a 2 month ticket open. They are usually like if you don't provide us with an answer or update, we mark this as resolved and then the real "fun" happens with customer support. Lmao
Quoted from JodyG:Solidworks has a pretty amazing deal for the 3dExpereience bundle at $9.99 a month (or $100/year)...as someone who uses a professional seat daily, and the 3dExperience license at home, it has excellent capabilities and does not feel stripped down for 99% of what most people are going to need it for. It also comes with an array of other software, like the shop floor NC programmer. I do not want to get into a Ford/Chevy pissing test, but I feel SW is much more intuitive than anything from Autodesk...and I have used both. It is definitely worth a try if you think you will use it enough to justify the license.
Thank You, I have considered SW, just never had anyone give any feedback on it.
Quoted from Sorokyl:you guys know that there are communities dedicated to 3d printers?? 95% of the discussion here has nothing to do with pinball. I thought this thread was about 3DP applications to pinball. which 3d printer is best or should I buy this printer is a really generic question that doesn't have much to do with pinball? (example of related appropriate question: "What material that I can print on my __ would be best for printing things that get bashed by a pinball")
I just get excited when I see 100 new posts here thinking "oh maybe there's something cool discussion happening related to pinball or some new design". Nope.
I will be showing off my WOZ start button here soon. I had help from swinks for the actual button, but then I came up with the design. Once I get my .02 nozzle for my A1 Mini I will print one.
Here is my attempt at a start button for my Wizard of Oz Emerald City LE Game, with the help from @swinks, who created the main body for me. I am basing this off the Emerald City Gate Doors as my inspiration. I still need to clean it up and will use translucent filament for the main body. Any feedback is appreciated.
Ken
WOZ_Button1 (resized).pngWOZ_Fusion1 (resized).pngQuoted from swinks:looking good Ken
the only thing to be mindful of is the print orientation as while tempting to print flat down the low curve angles on top will show potential bad print lines - where as printing with supports vertically will produce a a overall cleaner print though the top will show print lines. That said a smaller nozzle and finer print this will look great printed.
Thank you, on my 1st slicer attempt I realized this lol, then I re-oriented to vertical and it looks suoer clean. I have a smaller nozzle (0.02) on order so I can get a really nice detail print.
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:I haven't used my resin printer but twice in the year I have owned it, I have trans emerald green, would be cool to try it out of that.
I would think a resin print would be killer for this.
Quoted from DiabloRush:After 2 weeks, I finally got the parts to fix my bricked X1 Carbon. Installed a new ribbon cable (total PITA, btw, very delicate and need to heat and remove lots of glue). The good news is the printer now boots and sees SD cards. The bad news is this printer is pretty much a disaster. After much futzing, cleaning, trying new filaments, it has yet to lay down a good first layer.
I'm not a 3D printing novice. I've been doing this for almost 10 years, and have owned 4 different versions of the Prusa Mk2/3/4. All the vodoo the X1 Carbon does pre-print, things like bed levelling and calibration, is just for show honestly. After all this, it still gets bad first layers. No doubt, many of you have had this printer work trouble-free. I'm happy for you. Some of us have NOT had that experience, and dealing with Bambu customer service is a total pain. The few times I've dealt with Prusa, it's been a very positive experience.
Not sure where to go from here. Plan A is contact Bambu customer service again, and possibly ask for a new printer? I'm skeptical that approach is going to work. No plan B at the moment. Let's see if Plan A works...[quoted image][quoted image]
OrcaSlicer-Calibration which I am sure you have done and I am bummed this printer is not working as it should by now.
I agree, the cool plate is a bust. I use smooth PEI combo plates, then turn off detection in Print Options.
I would force Bambu to send a new printer. I am hoping this works out for you, cuz this printer rocks when it is working, I know that means nothing now, however sending good vibes.
Ken
Quoted from Cmartin1235:javagrind888 I have been using fusion 360 for four years now. There is a free hobbyist subscription which has 99% of the functionality you need. But, if I had to do it all over again, I would invest my learning curve on https://www.freecad.org/
I have been using FreeCad now and I really enjoy it. Not complex, very easy to navigate, I agree that this is a good piece of free software.
Quoted from rhampo:In my opinion, Freeecad is Meh. Good for programmers, bad for anyone else. It is incredibly slow too.
Onshape is free and is made by some ex-Solidworks people and is quite good for mechanical parts. Solidworks is my favorite, they have a yearly "maker" subscription for $48, today I just got a note that they are offering a sale for $34.
I don't do sculpting but I hear that there are other tools that are better than SW for sculpting.
Happy CADding.
Best regards,
Richard
I have not experienced this slow you speak about,may happen to me at some point, may not, however I am open to learning about other software.
Quoted from GPS:Hello All,
I have two files that were sent to me by a fellow pinsider that create a part for a trade stimulator that I have. There is a G code file and an STL file. Sorry know nothing about 3D printing. Is there anyone out there that could print this and send it to me? Happy to pay. If you happen to be local even better.
Thank you
George...
PM me, I live right down the block, well on the other side of town.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I'm sure TPU would do it.
TPU is what I would use, print from the side/rear spool of my Bambu X1.
Quoted from kingpinman:Hi, Everyone
I was wondering if there are any 3D printing experts that would be able to make a rubber target cover. (not sure how to describe it).
This is for a united 5th inning shuffle puck game.
hopefully pics will show what I need.
Anybody interested?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Use a nice ruler in MIllimeter and take some more measurements. This group will get you hooked up with a model.
Quoted from johninc:Does anybody use IIIDMax PETG? Sorry if I missed it, but all I can recall discussion about is PLA+. Was wondering about quality and color, etc. Thanks!
It is nice, I have used it. Do some small calibration cube prints and you will be ok.
Quoted from swinks:finally had time to finish a little project that I have been wanting to do - heated thread insert tool
[quoted image]
Very nice, that is one nice piece of equipment, those are going in nice and flush.
Quoted from Xdetroit:Does anyone have a model for sterns mini flipper?
reach out to @swinks, see if he can model it up for you or if he already has one.
Ken
Quoted from jrcmlc:They are sent. It is what it is.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I had some free time, so I ran this model through my X1C only using TPU and this is what the outcome was only using TPU as the main and as the support. TPU is easy to clean up. I printed the model flat fyi.
I plan to use PETG as a support material on my next test print.
20240107_131216 (resized).jpg20240107_131234 (resized).jpg20240107_131245 (resized).jpgQuoted from jrcmlc:I printed that one without support, it needs a little. I printed both flat, the one with significant overhang with support, that one you show without any....and the result was not ideal lol
I stated I printed with support, using TPU as the support material and it peeled off almost clean except for the areas you see in my pictures. I had zero overhang/bridging issues, so not sure what you are referring to as "not ideal". The excess support material just needs to be removed with a little scaper. I will run High Speed TPU in my AMS with PETG and it should be super clean. I was just sharing my results.
Quoted from Aurich:The biggest change for me having my X1C isn't the speed, or quality, it's how easy it makes printing ABS.
I really have almost no use for PETG anymore. I'm either printing PLA or ABS. PETG doesn't offer the advantages of ABS, and it's worse to print than PLA, I just haven't found much of a purpose for it.
I did print an Xacto cover in clear PETG the other day because I have a roll, but other than than I dunno.
I can't imagine going back to a non-enclosed printer now.
I agree, I enjoyed PETG at first, then started using ASA and ABS and now I rarely pull a roll of PETG off the shelf, maybe if I use it a support filament.
Quoted from jrcmlc:The flaps are done and shipped to @kingpinman. When doing the "less overlap" with support it came out completely clean, which is what I was saying earlier needed to be done, and was demonstrated by eyeamred2u as well.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice and clean. I ran a test print on some High Speed TPU and it came out just a little cleaner.
Nice work on this from those involved.
Quoted from jrcmlc:P1S #4 has decided to stop downloading jobs over the wifi. Just done. Quitting time.
Bummer news
Quoted from jrcmlc:I run the absolute dog shit out of these things with pretty minimal problems so percentage-wise I still think I'm way ahead
...and I thought having mine down to install the Hydra Pro AMS uprgrade was killing me, I can't imagine having these kinds if issues, so I hope you can get these issues resolved quickly so you can get back to printing.
Quoted from DiabloRush:It's now buried under several other connectors that were glued in. Here's the pic from the wiki. I tried a half-dozen ways of prying open the thin plastic clip, no joy.
I have to say, I remain totally unimpressed with the Bambu printers. Everyone raves about them. When I finally got mine operating, the prints were noticeably worse and not much faster than those I get off my Prusa Mk4. Serviceability on the Bambu is absolutely awful, completely contrary to the super-easy service on the Prusas. I just don't get why everyone loves Bambu? For those that have owned both Bambu and the Mk4, is my experience a one-off?
I'll be selling the X1 Carbon at a steep discount as soon as the last part (my dented side panel) comes in and I can get it back to as-delivered condition.
[quoted image]
Sorry to read all of this. I know alot of users switced to using OrcaSlicer just for their Calibration features. If you do sell the X1, I am interested. I love mine.
Ken
Quoted from Xdetroit:So, I think I’m going to add a bambu labs printer to my arsenal. I definitely want the AMS system. Is there anything that you guys can recommend. P1 or is it with $500 to go to the X1?
You can't go wrong with the P1 series with an AMS if you do multi color. I think the X1 series is nice but was over hyped with the Lidar and camera. I have one, it is nice, but I would buy a P1. I picked up an A1 recently, a really nice unit
Quoted from Xdetroit:Thanks! I appreciate that. Are there any accessories I need to pick up? I hear about people using glue on the build plate. Is that really necessary?
I only use the Gold Textured Plate, with no glue, and very rarely use a cool(smooth) plate. If you use the cool plates, I use Bambus green glue or Vison Miners nano polymer adhesive.
Quoted from Xdetroit:New P1S in the house [quoted image]
Print the Hyrdra AMS Pro mod and drop it into that unit and never look back. Better spool placement choices for lid closures, and so many other features.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I've never done this or needed it on any of mine I guess, what is the benefit?
Perfect track width of both rear and front rollers, no space for spools to jam!
Increased spool widths, up to 79 mm, meaning almost all 1 Kg spools will fit.
Increased spool diameters, up to 205 mm diameter spools fit with the lid closed.
Adjustable spool rollers in 9 positions for 120 mm to 205 mm diameter spools.
AMS feeder angled five degrees backwards to allow printing of full spools.
Optional PTFE buttons, as a separate print, saves the funnels and improve ergonomics.
Quoted from eyeamred2u:Perfect track width of both rear and front rollers, no space for spools to jam!
Increased spool widths, up to 79 mm, meaning almost all 1 Kg spools will fit.
Increased spool diameters, up to 205 mm diameter spools fit with the lid closed.
Adjustable spool rollers in 9 positions for 120 mm to 205 mm diameter spools.
AMS feeder angled five degrees backwards to allow printing of full spools.
Optional PTFE buttons, as a separate print, saves the funnels and improve ergonomics.
Quoted from jrcmlc:What I mean to say is that I use simple, common, plain filament, which is mostly the case. Nothing weird here just huge quantities of normal. Well, plenty weird here, just not in the filmament department.
I only did the upgrade after using some Matterhackers filament and they were rather larger spools, then I really liked when they came out with the PRO version. It is also not for everyone, If you have success with your AMS, there will be no reason to upgrade. I know Bambu upgraded the AMS units to fix various issues, from 1st stage feeders and the funnels, so many of us are version 1/2 AMS users, however I do see benefits to the Hydra Pro. Just my 2 cents and I hope you take a few minutes to review it.
Quoted from Soulrider911:For those of you that have a Bambu, are you using:
-------------------
Bambu Studio
-- or --
Orca Slicer
-------------------
and why? Would love to know!
I go back and forth between the 2, but I would say 70% for OrcaSlicer. I like that the DEV group adds features faster than the Bambu DEVs do, one example was Mouse ears for Brims. It is also nice to see what features they are working towards for future OrcaSlicer builds if you follow their GitHub.
Quoted from Soulrider911:eyeamred2u Ohh I totally did not even think of the mouse ears feature, is that only in Orca?
I don't see the feature in the latest update of Bambu Studio.
Quoted from herg:I built a Voron 350, and in my opinion, installing Klipper isn't the hard part. I built before the LDO kits, so it is a scratch build. Crimping all the cables was very tedious. A pre-built harness would save a ton of work.
I've found customization to be another big time sink with it. There was no filament runout sensor stock, so I added it, but that meant reconfiguring the firmware. It's not just a setting to say "use sensor " , either. It's more like, find the script and merge that into the config file. Yuck.
On the flip side, I was able to add an exhaust fan and duct it outside. I made the fan be controlled based on gcode, so it can run slowly during an ABS print, then exhaust when it's done. The problem, though, is that I had to set all of that up myself.
If there was a big printer with all the options I wanted, I would probably do that rather building another Voron. Just building a stock one, though, I'd say is definitely in your wheelhouse, based on what I've seen you post.
I almost went this route, but passed when I spoke to a fellow co worker who built one and said he would never do it again. He has been building rat rigs for a long time and he said it was too much time even for him. It was nice when done, but their need to be a better way.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Ah, I guess there is a difference but them replacing whole printers and compensating people for their time is pretty substantial.
For current A1 owners, we offer the following solutions:
If your heat bed cable exhibits signs of damage shown above or if you are not very sure about it, please reach out to our customer support immediately via this link and provide a picture of the cable at the root. We will arrange the diagnosis and replacement if it is a confirmed damage. We strongly advise customers with verified cable damage to refrain from operating their A1 units until the necessary repairs or replacements have been conducted. If you are willing to replace the cable by yourself, we will send you a revised replacement assembly of the heatbed (save the trouble of wiring the heatbed) in the following 2 weeks and compensation for your time invested in replacing the module. If you are not comfortable replacing the bed by yourself, we completely understand and will replace the whole printer for you.
If your cable is intact, which is the case for most of our customers, to proactively safeguard your cable against future damage, we have engineered a Cable Protector that acts like an extra stress relief. This device takes 30 seconds to install without the need for any tool and is to restrict the cable’s bending angle, thereby offering preventive protection. Within the next month, we will dispatch cable protectors to all our customers who have made past purchases. Upon receiving the Cable protector, we urge customers to install it on their heat bed cable without delay. It’s crucial to UNPLUG THE PRINTER BEFORE PERFORMING THIS INSTALLATION for safety reasons. For those who require an immediate solution, we offer an alternative: a 3MF file for the Cable Protector is available for download and print.
Packaging issue on Bambus part.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:If/when the mounts break, it's a lot better to be able to just re-print that one part.
I agree, I like to take the cups off, especially if I am working on games or moving them around. 2 pieces, to me at least, are user friendly.
Quoted from pb456:Have been thinking about sometime in the future getting an enclosed printer as I try ASA and ABS, have looked at several reviews and videos and maybe I could get some input here?
Not really a fan of the Bambu's apparent need to be online, would rather not have a cyber kill switch on my $1000 toy. Looking at you, Stern.
Creality K1C?
Either filament choice is nice to work work. I prefer ABS over ASA, but that is me. I strictly use Overture ABS on my Bambu X1C. Find a filament, dial it in and you will be good to go.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Wouldn't it be neat if the bottom was open to make this even easier and possible without removing the rolls?
I almost never have broken filament though, my ams issues are related to the feed motors.
Those feed motors are garbage. I just replaced another one.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:FYI, you do need to be a little careful when squeezing the top. Make sure you only apply pressure around the edges so that you don't accidentally pop out any of the colored inserts (even thought it was printed as a single object).
Here is a tip: change this in your slicer and it will strengthen the inserts, Ironing Angle from -1 to 50.
Ironing (resized).pngQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:So, you actually iron the backside of the sign faces (these are printed face down)? I would never have thought of doing that.
Yes, After I made a few signs and noticed how brittle(fragile) they were, I started playing with the ironing settings and the quality/strength improved.
Quoted from Xdetroit:I’ve got a faulty AMS reel and no reply. So, I have a 3 slot AMS unless I want to babysit it for the whole print. An 11 hour print took 27 hours with all the interruptions
Bambu took 10 days to respond, but when they did, they immediately shipped new parts to me. I know the response time is terrible now, however I did not have to go back and forth with them like I used to in the past. My initial pics and video were enough to show them my parts were the cause of failure.
Quoted from jrcmlc:We had it again today on 2 out of 4 units, filament pullback blah blah, stops printing, you don't get notified because their push notifications suck donkey, someone notices printer not printing, go check, ok, what's issue open app, (not on printer itself), yep filament pullback bs, "retry", ok it works on one, 2nd it doesn't, wait, retry, fixed, go on. Too much babysitting, if push worked as it should it would be way better but still, figure out how to get the buffer and ams motors to do better. That's all. There was no jam, no issue, just angry stupid cheap shit.
I just noticed when I moved my AMS units from being really close to my printer to far away(<2feet) I get more filament pullback issue now. I have tried securing the tubes so they don't move, just seems odd that a long run to the printer would have this effect.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Mine are right on top with a short run of tubing just as they show them being used. Seems like they maybe have the overcurrent limit set a little low or something.
Yes, I will check that setting, see if I can adjust.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I think this is a firmware thing, I doubt we can adjust or people (like me) would be burning things up lol... But if you do find it, let us all know.
You may be right, I was thinking retraction settings, need more caffeine!
Quoted from Xdetroit:Anyone have a model of insider connect footprint?
Have you posted in this forum for details? Might have the info you seek.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-insider-connected/page/59
Quoted from Riefepeters:Alright boys, 3d printing newb here. I’m going to pick up a Bambu carbon X1. What filament should I buy and from where? Please talk to me as if I need my hand held. Because I do.
One guy I was talking to said, “start with PLA, then go PETG when you ge that hang of printing. And go to polymaker, don’t buy Bambu filament”.
So I go online to polymaker looking for PLA and apparently there are 17 different PLA options…
And you guys know what I’ll be printing. Cool stuff for pinball and signs for neon LED and stuff like that.[quoted image]
I use Overture PLA + and ABS, PETG in a pinch. Here is a link to some good profiles to get an idea from on.
https://www.printables.com/model/457248-pla-tuned-x1c-print-profiles-for-bambuorca-slicer
Finally printed my WOZ Start button. Need to scale it up for tolerance. I printed this on my A1 mini, will try again on my X1C with the 0.2 HotEnd.
Also received my E3D High Flow HotEnd 0.4mm for my X1C. Can't wait to see if there is a difference in print quality as claimed.
20240221_113800 (resized).jpg20240221_113835 (resized).jpg20240221_113911 (resized).jpg20240221_115008 (resized).jpgQuoted from ManbearpigOG:Looks like you had a slight mishap with that layer. Looks really cool though.
I found a post model on Thingy and printed out a few in orange, only to discover that it was not accurate. Re worked the model and I’m almost a 1 now. Re printed in Polymaker Starlight Neptune (free spool from HueForge backer). I used the standard BL 0.4 nozzle at a 0.12 layer.
Now I can’t decide if I want to order blue or orange rubbers.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
No layer issue, I cracked it. I stated I have to scale it up for tolerance, was just a little to tight.
Quoted from swinks:looks good, if parts are interlocking factor a 0.2mm size offset to allow for slight size difference
Thanks Jady, I will add that.
Quoted from Xdetroit:Anyone have some suggestions for cleaner TPU prints? Orange is TPU. Red is PLA[quoted image][quoted image]
Run it from a dryer unit. I have a nice profile for TPU.
40mm/s for Overture and use the outer feed not the AMS.
If you were using High Speed TPU you could go 50-80mm/s
Quoted from Soulrider911:Working on a Custom Beverage holder for JAWS. Obvisoulsy inspired by the iconic barrels from the movie. I tried to replicate it as close as possible to the movie prop, whilst still making it sized to fit a soda can.
The idea is the top can screw off for when you are using it and want to put a beverage in, when its not in use, the top can be screwed on and you get the barrel in all its glory - minus the slot to get your beverage -
I will be making these, hand painting an weathering them. If you are interested PM me. Cheers![quoted image][quoted image]
I like it! almost needs a rope like tether so the top can dangle from the side while your cold beverage is in use.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I think there is finite life on them, and I think TPU reduces that greatly. I figure even if I have to pay the $39 for the real bambu gold plate every 600-800 hours that is plenty cheap....but at $16 each, well, lol, that's better.
I use Magigoo Pro Flex on my Gold Plates and TPU and have seen no wear. Will it eventually happen, sure but been going strong with 2 plates now since they were released.
Quoted from ManbearpigOG:From my understanding the X1C with the LiDar reads the strip or QR. The P1P and P1S don't care. I have one of those rainbow dots smooth plates and there are no markings on it. Prints fine with no warnings.
I just turn Print Plate detection to off, then you can load any type of vendor plate you want. The Lidar will ignore the check.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Ah...see I am low rent with my lowly P1S units. My bad. Didn't know this. Sorry.
No one, I mean NO ONE is low rent to me. Lol as I look at my A1 mini next to my X1C
Quoted from nacdale:Checking to see if anyone has a 3d print of any kind for the Foo Fighters Overlord. I have looked everywhere and cant find anything.
Thanks
[quoted image]
I thought someone did a resin model, but I could be wrong.
Quoted from Xdetroit:I don’t have a lot of experience with ABS. I think your orientation is best for the strength of the target. However, if I were to print it for appearance, I’d print it upside down and put the top face down on the textured build plate. It would take minimal supports and the top surface or the target will look great. I’d use like a 20mm brim and tree supports. It might be worth trying it and see if it’s strong enough.
I print alot of ABS, I will take a look at that model today when I get home and see what happens when I load it up with my ABS profile.
Quoted from mattosborn:That orientation will result in the weakest part, but it may be OK as long as you have good layer adhesion.
That is why we do test prints. I have other variations loaded for this model, just sit back and enjoy the model ride. I am a professional...lol
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:At the very least angle it back 45 degrees so the ball will hit a layer that’s going to reinforce itself on impact
Came out with a very solid and strong print. I can share the file, just message me.
Ken
20240407_100723 (resized).jpg20240407_100738 (resized).jpg20240407_100751 (resized).jpg20240407_100811 (resized).jpg
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