Yes, of course. I did the factory reset: "Utilities" -> "U.8 Factory Reset" and checked all the adjustments ingo 333 advised in his post 9296. That solved my problem, simple as that.

I've already started work on LX-9... here is what I have atm:

Bugs Fixed:​

• “250 Shuttles” Gives No Award, Counter wrong afterwards. Both fixed.
• Increase Borg Cannon Hit Timer:
• In LX-7 and LX-8 there is 0.75s - 0.83s for the ball from the cannon to reach the Under-Borg-Hole opto during Borg MB. Now it’s 0.83s – 0.91s.
• Warp 9 During BattleSim Fix: Disable Subway Cannon Routing so balls go to the LVUK while Warp 9 is running. Previously the balls went to the cannons but the shots didn’t count.
• Search The Galaxy NZ Bug fixed:
Steps to reproduce:
• start with lit NZ
• do not hit any ramps or at least not in the correct ordering
• just after Search The Galaxy, NZ will be re-lit again but S.T.G grace period is still running.
• hit the NZ within the Search-The-Galaxy grace period
• you get an artifact.
• Lit Hurry-Up and/or Cmd-Decision always lost if a Borg-MB is started while another mission is running.
• Hurry-Up activated in the background during Borg-MB will be active after Borg-MB although another mission might be running.
• Disable “Mission-Lights” during Borg-MB.
• “Mission Lights”: sometimes already show next mission with a blink during current mission start.
• BattleSim: if you manage to hit the wrong hole while Cannon-Hit Timer is still running, the next shot is not handled correctly (it does’nt count).
• No more lost >10billion high scores.
• Ball Lost during BattleSim while RTD is running was not handled correctly. (went from catapult to top-hole to cannon, now drop-target is raised shortly)

Adjustments Added:​

• [A.2 40] Disable PF GI and Shields on Power Saver Timer. [ON/OFF]
• [A.2 41] Shields OFF when shields are down! [ON/OFF]
• [A.2 42] Show Party-Animals instead of DOHO randomly. [0..100%]
• [A.2 43] Ferengi Multiball MK2 [ON/OFF]
• halt timer and disable NZ inserts while 4 balls are in play.
• Additional ball if cannon shot goes into the NZ hole.
• [A.2 44] Reduce “NZ Hole detection” / “NZ Target → UnderLeftHole Opto” Time.
• [A.2 45] Cardassia BallSaver [0s .. 30s]
• [A.2 46] Say No To Drugs [ON/OFF]
• [A.2 47] Special Speech Post-Game-Show [ON/OFF]

TODOs:​

• Q Continuum...

so if you know of bugs that aren't listed above or already fixed in LX-8, or have good ideas for tweaks or features, please post here or write an email to [email protected]

especially ideas regarding the Romulan Encounter are most welcome!

The man the myth the legend!

LOL

For discussion, here are the current OG Romulan rules:
Romulan
Three shots will be lit, (spinner, alpha ramp and beta ramp) which correspond to the three Romulan ships on the display. When a shot is hit, the ship on the display cloaks (disappears) - and is replaced by a timer. If the timer expires then the shot relights. The mode ends if you can cloak all ships simultaneously. Each cloaked shot is worth 10M, and the round lasts 40 seconds. Hitting "Klingon Assistance" puts a Klingon ship up on the left or right side of the display, replacing the Romulan ship there. This doesn't give you the points for that ship, but it does lock that shot out of the mode, so you don't have to worry about it timing out and returning like it might if you actually shoot it. Klingon Assistance doesn't work on the center ship, though.
Cloaking all ships is worth 30 million.

----

Thoughts from my family were either an artifact or perhaps bump the scoring to 100m for completion and perhaps 20 or 30m for cloaked shots?

It's a cool mode, with some neat effects and callouts. The big issue with it is that it is not safe like the other NZ modes that give a MB, and this one actually prevents progression, so it might be something a player might actively avoid, which seems unfortunate...

SUPER AMAZING my friend!!!!!!!!!!

An artifact for Warp 9.9 and a big score would be great, but it already has a great animation sequence of the Enterprise so not sure how to put the two together.
Also “the Picard Maneuver” should be worth something decent.

Not sure but artifacts are only given in regular missions IIRC.... oh no.. there is Shuttle Simulation.. so ok.... an artifact would be an option there.

Almost forgot about this one... was already on the LX-8 list a few months ago: "Disable Warp 9 Speed Penalty". But increasing Warp would mean there is no need for the cool "the Picard Maneuver" call-out.. that would be sad..... so maybe some points? warp factor * 10 millions?

Just had a good Search The Galaxy and if you hit the NZ at the end for the Gamma Quadrant, you get the same animation as when reaching Warp9.9 - and you get an artifact for which you only hear the call-out... so this combination should go together without problems.

The new STNG wire looms from WireBot are very easy to install and very affordable. Not sure if the kit from Heaven pinball has a larger gauge wire they are using, but the price difference is tremendous and the wirebot looms seems like a good option.

https://wirebot.xyz/products/sttng-top-gun-cannon-cable

20230704_174752 (resized).jpg

IDK, Warp is already a huge payday IMO, and that lit spinner can be crazy on top of the actual rewards below:

Warp Factors
This is a great feature. Every ball starts at Warp 1 (unless you start at another Warp because a plunger choice, or flipper skill shot). The right inlane will light the spinner to increase warp. A shot to the spinner will also light it for advance warp. (Note: Warps are only advanced if the ball goes right around the left orbit - past the bumpers. If the ball dribbles into the multiplier lanes, you will not be credited.) The left ramp will always increase warp value unless you have been to warp 9. Each factor has it's own award:

factor 2 Awards 5 million.
factor 3 Sets jets at 1 Million-a-pop for the rest of the ball.
factor 4 'Spinner' is lit.
factor 5 'Multipliers Held' is lit.
factor 6 Return lanes lit.
factor 7 Double spinner.
factor 8 Awards extra ball the first time, then an artifact. [If extra balls are disabled, it always awards an artifact.]
factor 9 Start Factor 9 mode. (See below)
Factor Nine Mode
This is great. Each shot to the spinner or left ramp increases the warp factor by .1. (You can always use the left ramp during factor 9 mode.) The first shot (to get it to 9.1) is worth 20 million, 9.2 awards 25m, 9.3 awards 30m and so on until 9.9 which is worth 60 million. You have 10 seconds to make each shot (which Geordi counts down), but it is quite hard. For some strange reason, you are given 20 seconds to make the last shot (warp 9.9); although there is the cool quote "Warp-drive failure in 15 seconds" from Geordi. [NOTE: The timer does not stop at all during this round, so don't lock a ball, or shoot a sinkhole. No other timer behaves in this manner.]

------

that's true... It's just that 9.9 doesn't really give an award... I've only been there twice and it was great! Normally I'm at Warp 9.5 or 9.6 when something stupid happens and since there is nothing special at 9.9, actually I don't care dropping out early. I think giving an optional artifact at 9.9 is not a bad idea.

But the Romulans are the elephant in the room.... it's a great mission but there is really nothing to win... if you do all the shots directly you get 35millions.. if you let some ships de-cloak again because you don't hit the ramps before the timers run out you might finally end up with 60 or something.... So there should be something timer related... if you are fast you should get an reward or more points....

so maybe:

- make all shots before the first de-cloaks again: artifact!

but would this be enough?

maybe double the scoring of all other shots? decrease the scoring for shots when the first one de-cloaks?

the klingon assistance is also great... but mostly only hit by accident?! ... and then you get less shots, so Klingon Assistance always means less points!?

Yeah, Warp 9.9 is def a pinball moment. Artifact makes sense to me.
--------
I like the idea of the artifact in romulan, and 2x points overall.

Give a timer bonus if you complete one million for each second left. Give a completion bonus too. Also maybe if you get Klingon help reward that as well.... And maybe a bonus for doing them in order.
Also handing out artifacts is a great way to get a super bonus on the final frontier which dwarfs everything else in the game except maybe Q shots during multiball. Maybe only one artifact per mode played and once ff played, reset them all.

I always thought the artifact awards were very well done; completing search the galaxy in order should still give 2 and not one as it can be a struggle to do them in order, and you may fail and get zero when trying to get two so there is a good risk/reward there. I would not want to do away with the larger awards from completing multiple sets of artifacts either by resetting them after the first Final Frontier.

I guess then I'll put it on the list. It's going to be A.2 48 then =)

Thanks for the input! I'm going to do a prototype implementation and you are invited to beta-test!

Everytime FF is over, I'm feeling a bit lost... the only thing that keeps me going is the next FF with even more artifacts!.. but maybe it's just me... And there are some artifacts that can only be collected once.. so you would have to identify and reset these too, correct? Resetting the artifact counter might be a small change but I'm not sure that resetting is all that's needed here.

That's true. And STTNG wouldn't be one of our favorite games if it wasn't already great. As long as there are bugs in the game logic, the main focus is fixing them. And if we decide to change/add something that is not a bug-fix, it's going to get an adjustment. I'm already very happy with all the bug fixes we have in LX-8 and how they sum up in making the original game faster and imho more fun. But there are a few problems left and there have been good ideas for improvements, so there is going to be another release - maybe just in time to celebrate 30 years STTNG. Personally I do love the bug fixes most - but there are also some tweaks (the NZ Lock Lighting, "Hurry-up Prox. Only" or "Random Caves" in LX-8 and "Shields off when down" in LX-9) that I love too. They do not change the game, just improve the overall STTNG experience a little here and there. And if you ask me about what to look at next, it's:

• how the Q-Contiuum works (it's broken..)
• and being a bit more engaged when meeting the Romulans in the NZ would be a nice thing.

that's all. But that's just me and I'm really happy to hear your suggestions and ideas!

Ok. If i disconnect the power junction box my main breaker doesnt go.

The pins 3 and 9 jumper wires for 230v. But of course the connecting plug usnt connected to plug 3 or 9 so i dont think they are doing anything?

The second pic i am just curious where it should lead to?

20230707_153646 (resized).jpg

20230707_153652 (resized).jpg

In your first pic, pin 3 needs to jumpered and connected to pin 2 and pin 9 needs to be jumpers to pin 8. With pin 2 and 8 not connected to anything, it's not correct.

In your second pic, that is likely for a bill validater on the coin door.

I have not made it to the wizard mode on mine this year. Time to put some serious games on STTNG.

I got this pic from the seller which says pin 3 and 9 connected but of course there isnt any connection from the connecting plug which means it isnt going to the transformer only ground and power. Which is likely why my main breaker is going.

Are you sure it should also connect to pin 2 and 8?

But i dont have any schematics from line filter to the transformer to guide my for the connections.

About pic 2. It is probably bill connector. Thank you. It was driving me nuts
Screenshot_20230707_163335_Gmail (resized).jpg

This is from mine. Hope that helps.

16887490574843103424509778977186 (resized).jpg

Your is 120v connected.

I see that i am not connected to orange and bl white to transformer as i have connectors which go through coin door just black and white.

20230707_170852 (resized).jpg

Do the wires on the transformer side of the molex match the image below? The single jumper from 3-9 looks like what would have left the factory for a 230V game.

Does the breaker blow if you have the transformer disconnected at that Molex plug?

pasted_image (resized).png

You have an extra bit of wires/connectors. The problem is likely there. The connector with the loop between pins 3 and 9 should be plugged in directly into the connector from the transformer. That extension should not be there and is likely the problem. red circled connector goes directly into yellow circled connector, as per the schematics.

Pinside_forum_7656914_0 (resized).jpg

Sorry I missed that you were hooking to 230v. That I can't help with...sorry!

Hi,
It does not blow if i disconnect the molex.

The seller said he put the 3 to 9 pin connector but of course it isnt connected to anything.
I think it shouldnt be there

Good eye, I didn't even notice that thing stuck in between the two, it's problem some kind of voltage conversion adaptor.

Hi, i agree but isnt the extension also the connector to power on the coin door?

But i can skip the extender to see what happens. As long as i have 3 and 9 pin connected straight to transformer, of course, which is on the pic from the line filter

There is no AC power that should go to the coin door, other than to a bill acceptor if have have one, which should be powered by that other square molex connector you showed in earlier pics.

The extension/splitter is a homemade hack.

Fantadtic. Good to know. Thank you. I thpught it was the extendor which i saw from 100v diagram.

It finally works. Thank you very much. Now little tweaks. One cannon just goes off to the side and everything is good to go.

Thank you all for the help.

Much appriciated

Any recommendations for replacement magnet boards for the in lanes? I have to adjust one of mine every few games. I replaced one a while back and it's rock solid but cannot for the life of me find it online. Thanks!

Not sure, but are these compatible?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html

That looks right. Just ordered something similar from the pinside shop. Thanks!

Not sure, Pinball life is not doing you any favors on this one.

I believe the correct one for STTNG is A-18543-1 and that's the one shown in the picture; however, the description says it's an A-18543-2 and will not replace the MagnaSave sensor in ToM which is the one you need.

The one you want:
pasted_image (resized).png

The one I believe is for sale at Pinball Life:
pasted_image (resized).png

The auto-adjusting feature of this "Tangles" eddy sensor board is a plus: https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023

Let's clear up all the confusion on proximity sensor boards. You need to understand the history and revisions to understand what is compatible with what. Key post this if you want.

1. A-16922
   • "Proximity Sensor II" - the original release with STTNG.
   • Manual calibration.
   • Smaller form factor.
   • Uses 4N25 to interface with the switch matrix.
   • Uses 2x 3300pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 9.09k Ohm resistor with a 2k potentiometer for adjustment.
2. A-17565
   • "Proximity Sensor III" - the later release with STTNG.
   • Manual calibration.
   • Smaller form factor.
   • Removed 4N25 and replaced with three discrete transistors to interface with the switch matrix.
   • Uses 2x 3300pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 4.7k Ohm resistor with a 10k potentiometer for adjustment.
   • Has an associated service bulletin. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-next-generation-eddy-board-service-bulletin for more information.
3. A-18543-1 (note the -1)
   • Manual calibration.
   • Larger form factor.
   • Same circuitry as A-17565 with the service bulletin implemented.
   • Uses 2x 3300pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 4.7k Ohm resistor with a 10k potentiometer for adjustment.
   • Used in Theatre of Magic for lane detection.
4. A-18543-2 (note the -2)
   • Manual calibration.
   • Same as A-18543-1 except for some component values.
   • Uses 1x 470pF and 1x 150pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 2k Ohm resistor with a 10k potentiometer for adjustment.
   • Used in Theatre of Magic for trunk hit, Road Show for dozer hit and Scared Stiff for crate hit.
5. A-22149-2 (note the -2)
   • Auto (or self) calibration.
   • Even larger form factor.
   • Detection circuitry is similar but uses an electronic poteniometer rather than a rotary potentiometer.
   • Electronic potentiometer is under software control.
   • Uses 1x 680pF and 1x 820pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 2k Ohm resistor with the electronic potentiometer.
   • Used in Cirqus Voltaire for ring master hit.
6. A-22149-1 (note the -1)
   • Same as A-22149-2 except for some component values.
   • Uses 2x 3900pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 2k Ohm resistor with the electronic potentiometer.
   • Used in Monster Bash for phantom flip.

There are several manufacturers making both manual and self calibrating boards. Be aware that the manual calibration boards will only support either -1 or -2 but typically not both. When purchasing a manual calibration board, you must make sure you purchase the correct -1 or -2 variant.

These are the manufacturers that I am aware of. These boards may or may not be PHYSICALLY compatible. Check for form factor compatibility before purchase. If unsure then you should inquire with the manufacturer or merchant.

The order below is NOT an endorsement of any particular manufacturer. It simply random and whatever order I processed the list.

• https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-a-16922--a-17565-eddy-proximity-sensor.html
  • MANUAL calibration
  • All SMT except for the TDA0161
  • Sized for A-16922 or A-17565 and supports both.
• https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html
  • MANUAL calibration
  • All THT
  • Advertised as supporting A-18543-2.
  • Image appears to show -1 configuration. Beware purchase you receive is what you ordered.
• https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023
  • AUTO calibration
  • All SMT (including the TDA0161)
  • Advertised as supporting A-18543-1 and A-18543-2 and A-16922. Uses shunt jumpers to switch configuration. Unlikely to physically support both A-16922 and A-18543 due to size difference.
  • Available as bundle to replace all Theatre of Magic boards.
  • Appears to have an unpopulated 6-pin ICSP header.

I also have boards available. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6308140 and https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/25#post-7516807 for images. Inquire with messaging if interested.

Nice description of all the variations and changes. Even if the labels are gone it will be easy to tell if a board is a A-18543-1 or A-18543-2 and if needed changing two caps and a resistor would convert those boards.

Unsure of DumbAss board cost, but the one at Weebly has the best price of those listed. It's not auto calibrating.

Andrew provides great support as well.

I wholeheartedly 100% agree that Andrew's board are great and he provides great support. For those that don't care about SMT vs THT, I recommend his boards. I cannot beat his prices since he has automated assembly. I would rather support the small hobbyist than the big manufacturer and merchant, but that's my preference. If you support the hobbyist then you'll probably get better support now and in the future.

I offer my boards bare (a niche market) or complete (inquire for pricing and availability). I have manual calibration and auto calibration - as seen in the link images. I don't publish prices because posts are static and age whereas component supply is dynamic and fluid. I don't want a post from a year ago with a price to be considered static.

Here is a question for the group. On my STNG on the catapult launch, the manual says the switch used is 5647-12133-12. But my switch only has one spade in the back and one on the top and the wiring uses a terminal strip.

But when I look to find a replacement switch, it looks like this which has two spades in the back and one on top. Confused on how to wire the new switch. Anyone have any insight?

5647-12133-12 switch_208x112 (resized).jpg

I was pretty sure A-16922-1 and A-17565 are both the same size and found in STTNG depending on date of manufacture. The circuitry is a little different between the two, but should function the same. The later one being an updated design (maybe the first one had issues?) The proximity board in Theater of Magic is different size (but I think the circuitry is the same).

WMS changed same components around A-17565 vs A-16922-1. When I did this board the manual listed one part number, my actual game had a different part number. My friend's TOM had a third different board (not sure of the PN right now).

So far no one has complained about it not fitting that has bought one, but I am pretty sure I advertise it as only for STTNG. I've been meaning to see if it can "work" in TOM.

As far as needing adjustment. You should not have to fiddle with them after the initial setup. That said they do seem to be sensitive the voltage level. I noticed after installing a color DMD, both sides needed adjustment. It's been fine ever since. I assume the color dmd load was different than the original board and made an unregulated supply change in V enough.

I found a company in Asia that makes this sensor chip still under the LDA prefix. unfortunately they are only making in the SOP8 package. Beware the TDA0161 on ebay and etc are pretty much all fake unless you get old stock. I bought a few different batches of faked STMicro TDA0161 and none of them worked. There was active circuitry inside the chip, but it wasn't the right thing.

You are correct. I stand corrected. I went back and looked more closely at the images in that service bulletin thread and I was mixing up the A-18543 images. That thread does show the original A-16922, A-17565 and A-18543. The A-16922 and A-17565 appear to be the same size with the different components. The change to A-18543 and the insertion of D3 caused the board to get a little bigger such that instead of the 3 resistors, it's 3 resistors and the diode. I am fairly sure your board (supporting A-16922 and A-17565) will work electrically in a ToM. I am fairly sure it will not fit the old holes physically.

This is a lot for my simple brain lol but it does look like this board would work in sttng- correct?

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html

This board says: Williams/Bally reference #A-18543-1

You have written for A-18543-1 (note the -1)
Same circuitry as A-17565 with the service bulletin implemented.

Sorry if I am not understanding.

I had the same issue and tried cleaning the pot by removing it from the board twice and I still had to reset it every few games. What eventually helped me was pulling out the resistor or whatever it is that’s pushed into that connector that’s under the playfield and tinning the ends of the leads and cleaning the connector as best I could and I haven’t had a problem since and it’s been about eight months. I guess it makes sense that connection would wear over time just like a header would. Good luck!

Acrylic paints are not the best for single application coverage but I left the orange as it looks a little battle worn.

20230708_105650 (resized).jpg

20230708_105708 (resized).jpg

Take a closer look at the switch. Have seen alot of times where the third tab has been broken off. would guess it was at the factory to keep people from wiring it wrong but thats just a guess.

Thanks Tallon. Here are 2 pics of the switch and wiring. There were definitely not two switchs on the top. Anyone willing to check their game for me?
20230709_123030 (resized).jpg20230709_123048 (resized).jpg

Confirming mine is the same as the photos here.