I arranged mine chronologically, but they do look nice together.

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I assume you used light stripes ?

Actually no, installed a 47 bayonet sock under each ramp (yes drilling holes was needed, however provides the best result) On the Delta ramp to the Borg ship, you will see there is some plastic which causes a shadow. Trimming of that will provide better illumination. Also frosted cool white leds work best. Connecting to a nearby GI string works, and also shuts off when some game lighting effects occur. Like the moment the playfield goes dark and only lights the Borg ship.

Well this is an interesting thought!

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"To the Battle Bridge!!"

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"Lieutenant Worf you’re in command of the saucer section...."

"But Captain…."

"That’s an order Lt Commander!"

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"Prepare for battle!"

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"Message to Starfleet...We have engaged the Borg!"

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"Damage Report!"

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"Evasive maneuvers!"

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"Execute the Picard maneuver!"

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"We’re clear of the Neutral Zone Captain!"

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"Lt Worf prepare to dock saucer section...."

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"We have saucer attachment Captain!"

"Casualties?"

"Don't know Captain, too tired to check..."

"...To Be Continued..."

Can someone explain this to me ?

Special Sound Roms Set (AKA "Silly Roms" / "Silly Cast Roms")
Rumored to be a version originally only released for cast members.

Yes, when the game was made a custom rom was given to each of the cast members' in their games. The silly roms version (which lx8 is built on top of) is all of those custom sounds in one rom.

It used to be available on ipdb, but has been removed (as have most/all of the other home rom type roms). It's likely available many other places.

IIRC it has an option to turn the silly quotes on/off. Really, once you play it once with them on, you don't really play it with them on again.

The in game quotes are random between normal and silly.

The ROMS do add a lot of attract mode flipper sounds. A bit like the Demolition Man swearing ROMS.

It's still there. Called: "Special Sound ROMs LX-7". You need this file for creating LX-8. It survived the latest ipdb.org "clean-up". And if it's going to be removed you should still be able to find it with the Wayback Machine. There are many snapshots of ipdb.org available.

I had to find out recently that it has 3 sounds included that are pretty cool and so un-silly that I've completely missed that they are not coming with stock LX-7:

- "Captain's Log, supplemental: Q's latest visit proved a true test to the crew's abilities."

- "Captain's Log, supplemental: While we have made significant discoveries, we must admit, this can only be the beginning"

- "Our experience in the final frontier was most remarkable"

So if you are already running LX-8, you might want to switch to the Silly Roms to hear these call-outs in the post game show... (you do not have to enable "Special Speech"). In LX-9 you will be able to disable these to get the original LX-7 post game show back, because with LX-8 if you don't have silly/special roms installed, you won't hear the call-outs but still have different background music playing...

I also have weak launch. So I want to make sure I don't have your issue I want to know where the broken weld is. I'm not sure by looking at the pics. Is the top ramp supposed to welded to the bottom. I believe those are two separate assemblies.
Thanks

I’ve also changed these quotes(with Patrick Stewart speech from various movies) on my Pinsound so that sometimes these say:
- "Captain's Log, supplemental: Q's latest visit proved to be BULLSHIT!"
- "Captain's Log, supplemental: While we have made significant discoveries, we must admit, I don’t do this for fun!"
- "Our experience in the final frontier was f#$% brilliant!”

The ramps are separate assemblies. The broken welds are where the catapult ramp is welded to the supporting foot right at the bottom, see below. It allows the wireform to flex enough to absorb quite a bit of energy from the ball.
IMG_8424 (resized).JPG

just had a really bad game and I must admit it's actually: "Captain's Log, supplemental: While we have made significant discoveries, we must realize, this can only be the beginning."

We will NEVER surrender, unless you pay us enough.

My recommendations on this have not changed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/54#post-4787077

This part is now $12 not $5 as shown in the image.

Yes I ordered new coilstops and tried different lengths (also used one size from totan) as so to guarantee not hitting the wire ball guides. It did not work. Still weak. One that was in the game was a bit short and was hitting.

OK, thanks for the clarification. I checked mine and weld is good. I also changed coilstop and it helped but still not enough power. Also adjusted end of wire ramp at exit and no help either. I feel the game is just not having enough power. I will next swap out the wpc power board.

I'd look for other issues... Like line power before placing blame on the power board.

I had a recurring issue with my catapult...was not returning to where it should go (nest) after it shot a ball...and weak...I had replaced the coil stop but noticed that no matter how much I tightened up the bolts on the coil stop , the coil would still rotate a bit...ie it was loose (loose is lost power)...I took the coil stop out and bent the angle to a more 90 degree in my vice...that allowed it to put more pressure on the coil and now the catapult returns without issue and no power issues....YMMV...but somthing to look at...I'm guessing it was wasn't bent correctly by the factory

I am putting in a new colorDMD LED screen. Went with a new acrylic speaker panel cover (the old one was fogged). I took the old one off the wood speaker panel and it had some sort of adhesive attaching it to the wood. Got it off and cleaned up.

What type of adhesive should I use to attach the new acrylic panel cover to the speaker panel? Contact cement, Rubber cement, Other?

Look up vhb tape by 3m on Amazon.
That's what I'd use.

this is what is used in that location...the 3M tape that Zitt recommended is best used for attaching the rails...too strong for speaker panels imho..you'll never get the panel off in the future with that tape and its very thick...this stuff can be heated with a hair dryer to remove if that is even needed....https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Adhesive-Transfer-Sheets/dp/B01HP2CEG8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

Thanks for the advice both of you. I will go with monkfe's recommendation.

Just purchased a STTNG last night and excited to dig into it and play.

It came with acrylic for the translite glass and is a little too big. Does anyone have the dimensions of the regular glass size or is it the exact size of the translite?

Thanks
Chip

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/playfield-glass-sizes-backglass-sizes-request-for-measurements

27" x 18-7/8" x 1/8"

Awesome thanks

I recently asked the same question of Chris at High_End_Pins and he recommends carpet tape. I got a new MDF speaker panel from an ebay vendor and have a new Classic Arcades plastic panel to attach.

I know this has already been answered but this is what I use, I chose this as it's very thin (14mil).
https://www.amazon.com/Duck-240200-Double-Sided-1-4-Inch-12-Yards/dp/B002O16SHW

I would also replace the speaker panel board since its probably in rough shape after removing the speaker panel cover.
https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29&products_id=116&zenid=69lnhtp3ddf2b83061b4svknq6

Yet another “tie back” repair question…

I am about to do the tie back fix and will do the following. Am I correct or should I do something else??

Remove the factory tie back wire from the coil lug and move it to J107 (pin 1). Done?!?

That is what I used when I upgraded my backbox speakers on all my Williams widebodies.

Please see this thread regarding the tieback mod, it contains some good information.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-diode-tie-back-sanity-check-please#post-5002462

I should be getting my Power Driver Board in a week or so, so I was checking out the rest of the game. I had not done the tie-back mod before this and looked at the coil in question. Went to examine the solder joint and both the thin and one of the thick wires just came off at my first touch.

I guess I really dodged a bullet. Re-soldering on the thick wire and running the tie-back mod.

Should be call the TIE BACK "FIX", it's not a "mod or enhancement, but rather a factory in the field REPAIR.

Just thought I would show you guys why you need to replace the cannon looms. This new one is from wire-bot. Perfect replacement with the “little extra” on length to get it positioned correctly. I had to cut the ends off to get the old one out since it was so brittle. The red wire for the dome light had one strand left and it broke when I get the cover off. For the $40 replace your looms people and have you game working perfect again

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They sell complete units ?
Interesting

Don’t know what shipping to Canada is but….

https://wirebot.xyz/products/sttng-top-gun-cannon-cable

I know $14 each plus shipping in the us came to about $40 for the pair.

He also did the HV cutoff harness for those with re-import machines. Pretty simple cable but a ton of wires just to run the solenoid power to the switch on the cabinet door. Brings the game back to American specs and adds that layer of protection

For those wondering it’s 8 wires and a diode. Pretty quick update and adds the reliability to the cannons that’s needed to make the game function 100%

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Does anyone know who sells the bare speaker backboard for 5.25 speakers ?

https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=29&products_id=116&zenid=69lnhtp3ddf2b83061b4svknq6

In case of interest, I wrote up my upgrade to 5.25" speakers (with parts links):

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/19#post-7092703

The combination with Pinsound has been fantastic

Well, I guess my Power Driver Board was a little more screwed up than I thought:

Work performed…

Williams WPC-3 Power Driver board (SN 52220204662. Prior repairs. Wires. Incorrect transistor at Q50. Low output (+5v = +4.94). Capacitors leaky/out of tolerance. Components failing): All wires, flux and prior repairs removed from circuit board. 3x damaged traces repaired. All transistors curve-traced and tested, -- 2n5401 (Q49). TIP102 transistor (Q50). 1n4004 diode (D20). All fuses removed, cleaned, checked and tested, -- okay. C2 (100uf/50v/105c), C4 (100uf/16v/105c), C5, C11 (2x 15000uf/25v/105c) capacitors. Cleaned up dual heatsink and added fresh heat-sink compound. BR1, BR2 (2x GBPC3508W) bridge rectifiers plus fresh heat-sink compound. J101, J114, J115, J120 and J121 upgraded to high temperature connectors. 0.33uf/50v military spec tantalum capacitor (C9). 10k resistor (R260). +5 volt boost modification (trace cuts and patch, 18 ohm resistor). Cut down excessive lead lengths. Reflowed solder at various areas around board to fix cracked solder joints. Signals in, out and around board analyzed. Board cleaned up. Two-tier full functional testing.

Can't wait until I get it back (UPS says Saturday). Get it up and running and then get my new color DMD LED going. While the game was down I finished changing out all of the incandescent bulbs for LED's, changed all of the rubbers and cleaned and polished the playfield.

Fun write-up

Questions please

1 - how do you rate the precision halos for game play ?
2 - do you have the precision bushings ?
3 - do you have the shaft link arm clamps ?

Thank you

These blank panels work perfectly for the 5.25" Pinsound speakers, and the led speaker mod.
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I've got Halos with the precision bushings and shaft link arm clamps in almost all my machines (I've kept my TZ original)

I love the look of the silver Halos on STTNG. The mirrored surface really picks up the playfield and gives it a sleek future look. Huge step up from standard flippers for this pin (aesthetics)

In terms of game play, I love the control that the bushings and precision flippers give. I use low bounce Titans with them, and the combo has definitely helped me be a better player (although I'm far from competitive)

The various ramp and loop shots on STTNG are really satisfying, but it was really arduous for me to dial in the flipper angle with the traditional flippers. Being able to quickly make very small adjustments with the precision flippers has been a big win for me

Ever since I purchased my first pin almost 30 years ago, I've despised the traditional flipper shaft clamps with the light of a thousands suns. The D-clamps on precision flippers are an absolute joy for me, and a must have.

Overall, it was a leap of faith to get the precision flippers, but I very quickly got them for all my pins except my TZ. Since then, I've upgraded to Halos and bushings and d clamp as they've all become available and have been very happy

Thank you hugely for the detailed write up.

STTNG is my 1st pin, and I am having trouble getting the flippers dialled-in, so the adjustment part is very attractive. Also bushings and d-camps seem to remove other issues as well.

The silver halos do look very good. I was wondering if they would work, and your pictures are helpful.

The d-clamps seem to be out of stock. I will connect with 1956Pinhead to see if I can backorder. I only want to do one ship to Oz.

Cheers from Sydney

I’ve 30 yr originals and they are fine, stop gas lighting

Indeed

I only replaced the one that was full of electrical tape, the other one looked good, so I left it alone.