(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

6 years ago

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Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (9 months ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (9 months ago)

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#183 3 years ago

I just want to say that the STTNG pinball game is one of the greatest pinball machines I've ever played. I first played it back in the arcade and was able to master it despite the way the out lanes will punish you for errant shots. I made several modifications to mine while it was in the restoration process and I have to say I'm glad I did. I wanted to take a minute to share them as I know the folks here will appreciate them.

I did most of the common mods, Hallmark Romulan and Klingon ships, target decals, and backboard graphics, but won't bother highlighting them and will only list things I did that are uncommon or a little different.

One thing I always felt was a little out of place on this game was the red pop bumpers, they just never seemed to fit well with the artwork of the game. I was trying to decide between blue and violet and ended up choosing blue, the deciding factor was the way the blue seemed to flow with the plastic set, I originally had blue out lanes as well but felt it was just too much blue for my tastes and went back to the original red here as the red and blue combination went really well with the plastics and the violet playfield. I still to this day don't know why they used green/yellow for the U.F.P. emblems and not blue/silver. I wonder what they would look like with yellow LEDs ...


As soon as the lighting harness was installed I did some LED testing for G.I. and other lighting to get an idea where I wanted to go with LED's and for the most part I went with incandescent bulbs in most of the playfield; the LEDs I really like is the LED star post lighting, I tried several color LEDS and several different posts and ended up going with red star post lighting in all four kicker posts. I wanted to use LED lighting of some sort for the shields as the heat gets trapped under the lenses and has been know to cause issues; I used cool whites in the shields for both GI and flashers which changed the shield color from teal to blue which flows well with the artwork.


The Borg ship, another area that can be damaged from the heat thrown off from incandescents; my original ship had some melted spots from the bulb heat so I used green 555s with bright white flashers in the Borg ship. I also installed a color changing LED under the playfied that gives the neutral zone hole a nice glow.


Lastly, I put LEDs under the cannons which I don't really care for but I really didn't want to ever have to change those bulbs.

The most recent thing I did was change the old plasma display out with a new color DMD, what a fantastic upgrade! I also pulled the two fuses from the DMD driver board afterwards. I figure why bother powering the HV section of this board when its not going to get used.

#186 3 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

You'll need to cut that bottom pop cap in half to install the ramp

For sure ... someone on here had posted a pattern that I used to cut the cap ... hindsight, I should have put either a blue or cool white LED in there since you cant remove the screw holding the cap on without removing the ramp .

#191 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

What fuses did you pull? Maybe that would help with my overall power problem.

I pulled both of the fuses on the DMD controller board, F601 and F602, these are for the +62VDC, -113VDC and -124VDC that the original DMD needed to operate. I put the fuses in a little zip lock bag and tossed them along with the original DMD in the box the color DMD came in.

#193 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I suppose someone could tell me if that would even contribute to my power deficit

Not likely, these voltages come from their own secondary taps on the transformer and are used solely by the DMD driver.

#198 3 years ago

Yes blue and purple really are hard to capture in a dark environment. The purple does look really nice in there, you also have something else going on with the pop bumpers, whats that sparkly ring inside surrounding the light bulb? ... I want one! I think I'm going to borrow from you and change out my Command Decision with either a blue or cool white LED, I like how it makes it stand apart from the others on your machine.

#203 3 years ago

LOL, I almost called it a thingy .... and it really is!

3 weeks later
#224 3 years ago

On my rebuild, I just went ahead and purchased the entire flipper assembly, at $40 for the whole thing it wasn't much more than the rebuild kit and coil. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=172

Maybe I was getting lazy and just didnt want to clean any more parts ...

#235 3 years ago

A good substitute for the cannon wiring is plain old braided cat6 cable, cheap and easy. Most of the cannon shafts will be gunked up from the original grease that was used when the machine was manufactured. Since this part has a metal on metal contact they really should be greased, myself and many others use Super Lube Sythetic grease for parts that should be lubricated. amazon.com link »
You only need enough a tiny bit to prevent corrosion and provide lubrication.

#236 3 years ago
Quoted from mot:

Just joined the club!

Welcome to the Enterprise!

#237 3 years ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

Can someone shoot me a picture or some information on which color wire should be connected to which pop bumper?

Coil Harness removed for clarity


Its actually strange that none of them are working because they should not all be on the same GI string. The one pictured above is the green string, the other 2 are on the violet string, the one closest to the middle of the playfield has a yellow jumper from the violet-white wires, and share the solid violet wires since the two light socket wires are stapled together (obscured by millions light in photo)


A common rule for GI wiring is that adjacent lights are on different strings, this prevents areas on the playfield from having no light if you loose one of the strings.

Please post requests for technical assistance in the tech section, you will find the help you need much quicker there.

#249 3 years ago
Quoted from Wickerman2:

Is there a bigger picture of that anywhere?

I'll post some when I get mine it, my original is not in the best shape with deep scratches and a foggy window. I just hope the image is sharp and the colors are good.

#252 3 years ago

I got the replacement speaker panel in today from PPS! The graphics on it are very close to the original and look really good, the only thing I'm not sure about is the original and the replacement one that Classic Arcades sells on e-bay have an opaque semi-rough black coating over the backing and this one doesn't; I sent a message to PPS to ask about that. Here are the pics of the replacement part as promised, keep in mind the top still has the protective plastic on it to protect it which is why there is an odd look to the outside edges, I plan on leaving this on until I get it glued to the wood panel.

#257 3 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

In mine the cannon plungers have a plastic tip.Not a standard plunger at all!

Same here, the cannon shooter have plastic tips, but as little as these are used they wouldn't be the cause, there are tons of things that can cause ball wear like the upkickers, the ball trough, subway, the metal ball rails, the ball trough ... all of these are metal-metal contact. Most of the actual grime should be from the flippers and rubber parts.

1 month later
#310 3 years ago

Top side, or bottom side pics? Rule one for the top side: Always replace the left loop optos with new, you have to take damn near the entire playfield apart to get at them.

#311 3 years ago


#314 3 years ago
Quoted from Williestyle:

Topside - thanks these should get me started. Mind if I ping you for more if I get stuck?

Please do, I took every screw out of everything and have lots of pics. The parts you linked from Marco are the right ones but they seem expensive to me; you don't have to buy them with the mounting base and they are a lot cheaper:

I usually just replace the actual transmitter and receiver you can basically do 10 transmitters and 10 receivers for the same cost as buying one assembly, either way you are soldering, it's either the wires to the new part, or the new component to the board.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=KIIz7VjqD7I4A%252bR7oPm1DQ%3d%3d $3.82 for 10
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=QSD124virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-QSD124 $3.65 for 10

#315 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Greetings! New proud owner here! Cheers!

Welcome to the Enterprise!

#316 3 years ago

Has anyone replaced their translight with the one PPS carries http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=GS-2357&Product_Code=PPA-31-1357-50023 ?

If so, how well is it done? Do you see any light spotting or does it distribute the light fairly evenly? How sharp are the images and colors?

#324 3 years ago
Quoted from Sniperone:

I need the no-ghost ROM image level 7 please.

What's that?

#328 3 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

The wife is going to freak

Just don't tell her

1 week later
#373 3 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

Is there any games that can compare to STTNG, toys/features/code?

STTNG is the holy grail of stuff ... this game just has everything a pinball can have. I would never sell mine, I probably have more $$$ in it than it's worth, but I just love the game. Have to keep in mind that this game is 20+ years old so features/code is limited to what could be shoved into 256K. IMHO they shoved a lot into that tiny space.

#383 3 years ago
Quoted from Sniperone:

I added an Electroluminescent strip along both sides

I like it!

#389 3 years ago
Quoted from mskoenen:

Do you know where those custom rule/scoring cards came from?

I usually make my own ...


#392 3 years ago
Quoted from mskoenen:

How do you make your own? Just find a set/image you like and have them printed?

I scan the original card for the text into Photoshop, then I find a good background I like and layer the text onto the image then print it on a photo printer using a high quality photo paper. Both images were pulled right off the web, all I did with the right card (ships crew) was crop it to the correct size and sent it right to the printer.

Almost forgot, I had to change the card text from black to white in order for it to look right. I actually adjusted the text to a very light grey so it wouldn't be too bright.

I should have actually tried to match the text to the silver silk screening on the apron but I didn't think of that until just now.

#400 3 years ago

DIY domed cannons for $2.50?

I wish I took pictures of these while I was making them, unfortunately I didn't. I purchased a pair of these http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8662-9 dome covers from Marco, just tossed them in when I was ordering some other stuff to see if they would work out, answer is they work pretty damn good without making any modifications at all to the covers.

All I did was was remove the boring flat red insert by pressing in the center of it and pulling them out, they are slotted on both sides and came out undamaged; removing them this way left me with the original plastic post intact as well as the slide on lock thingy that held them in place. I just left them as they were and dropped the domed inserts onto the posts (lined up perfectly) then hot glued it in place. I could have used epoxy, but wanted to make sure they looked good as hot glue isn't hard to undue if you screw it up.

What not to do: do not try to pry off the metal slide lock nut that held on the originals, these are designed to slide one way only and will not come off without breaking the guide pins, just leave them alone since they don't interfere with anything.


1 week later
#409 3 years ago
Quoted from mskoenen:

I believe it's fuse F116 on the upper left of the power driver board.

It is F116, and it does sound like 12V is missing. LED 7 should be lit on the Power board, the playfield connection are J116, J117, and J118 for the +12VU.

#430 3 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I just ordered lights, laser cannons, and a bunch of other stuff.

Any plans for your old crappy cannons?

#431 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

I am expecting to have to tend to the STTNG ball launch catapult soon.

Verify the coil stop is the correct one for your game; if it is, the ball is likely hitting something stealing its energy.

#433 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

I read that "some" lube is needed on some parts in that machine.

There are only three parts in this game that should be lubedricated ... after a thorough cleaning of the old grease. These should be lubricated with Super Lube synthetic grease amazon.com link »

1) Both cannon shafts, this is the part that extends through the playfield. This part requires lubricating due to metal-metal contact, you only need enough to coat the shaft (a drop the size of a pea is enough for each shaft).
2) the rear ball diverter. This part requires lubricating due to metal-metal contact, you only need enough to coat the shaft
3) both playfield rails. This playfield is very heavy and a tiny bit of grease will make it easier to position the playfield for maintenance, without grease, you will actually see the metal dust from this metal-metal contact.

#434 3 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

They are I great shape, but do not have the dome top. They are old school flat inserts. Would you need them?

My pair have some fade to them, I would be interested in a better pair of cannons for the right price.

#459 3 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

New to the Club. Picked up mine last week and just set it up last night.

Welcome to the STTNG club!!!

#460 3 years ago
Quoted from Imeh:

Still a little hesitant on the shaker.

Welcome to the club!!! As for a shaker ... I shake mine more than enough

#461 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Coils are cheap, sometimes less than $10.

Coils are cheap, but they rarely fail and are extremely easy to check. The cannons use AE-23-800 coils, these coils should measure 4.1 ohms.

2 weeks later
#472 3 years ago

I'm fairly certain that piece isn't included in the clear plastics set.

I confirmed that I don't have one of these in my "old plastics" bag so I had to use the original during the restoration. If you look on Marco Pinball http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-1803-1 to see whats included the full kit (clear and silkscreened), you will see that plastic ... and one other of the clear plastics isn't included in the kit.

#473 3 years ago

While you have the game torn down so far you may want to consider replacing those loop optos, you do not want to risk having an old one fail once you've put it all back together.


#480 3 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Yeah but that's Marco not Pinbits. I got the Pinbits kit and it has everything.

I actually didn't buy the Marcos kit, I purchased the one from PPS and it was exactly as pictured in the Marco kit

#486 3 years ago
Quoted from Goner:

Took my gun apart to clean and then used satin black rattle can. Same with the coin door and legs. Looks fine.

Would you mind posting a pic? It's just that looks fine is really subjective as one mans "looks fine" could be another persons "WTF were you thinking"

Trust me it's me and I know ... for me everything is black and white, there is no grey; it's going to be either perfect or needs work

Knowing is half the battle ...

#488 3 years ago

Did you get a manual with your game? If not go here: http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2357/Williams_1993_Star_Trek_The_Next_Generation_Operations_Manual_with_OCR.pdf

You will want to read through the game settings sections.

#497 3 years ago

I usually put a towel on the playfield to catch all the balls, there should also be a ball in each cannon, if there isn't there could be a problem.

#509 3 years ago

From the few pics you posted the game looks like it's in really good shape, looks like below average neutral zone wear, and the original silk screened apron looks very nice. To answer a couple of your questions, the switch matrix looks correct for a game with all balls removed and the drop target in the down position; the drop target isn't visible from the players perspective and is located at the top of the game under the Borg ship. It looks like this:
1122_(resized).JPG 1123_(resized).JPG 1124_(resized).JPG

The Neutral zone switch you are asking about is switch #27 as seen in this illustration:

This there are numerous reasons why the switch isnt reading properly, but if you can press it hard and get it to register it is probably, bent, corroded, or both. I think you can still buy replacement for this switch, but you can also just clean the contacts and adjust the leaf spacing.

#516 3 years ago
Quoted from Goner:

Here's a couple of shots. It's been about 10 years now, trigger is showing wear. It was a quick cheap fix to get it looking decent.

It's still looking good Goner.

#517 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

now it shoots balls from the starting point like crazy

Are they making it all the way to the top, and is the drop target in the down position so the balls can enter the subway? Or, do the balls shoot to the top then come back down to the ball trough?

#518 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

can the opts be affected by light? If there is an led shining on them?

Typically no, an LED flashlight will emit a specific wavelength of light in the visible light spectrum, the phototransistor that WPC games use is in the IR range ... 880nM.

#519 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

ugh.. I'm starting to feel like I shouldn't have bought one of these and stuck to video games...

Nawww ... You are just not familiar with how the game operates; like Pez mentioned, the game preloads balls into the VUK's, the reason for this is very straight forward ... by doing this, there is no game delay caused from a ball entering the subway, as soon as the ball is detected in the subway, the VUK kicks out the ball that was pre-loaded rather than having to wait for the ball to roll all the way down into the VUK.

To help you out, you know what the switch matrix should look like with no balls in the game. With your 6 balls all in the proper spots, the matrix should look like this:


The yellow arrows are showing where the balls moved to ... I realize this isn't entirely accurate since trough 1, 2, and 3 are now in trough 4, 5, and 6, position, and balls from 4, 5, and 6 were loaded to the VUK's ... but it's good enough to see what happened.

One thing to remember ... Mechanical switches are normally open unless they are triggered by something, optical switches are the opposite and are normally closed unless the beam is blocked by something.

#521 3 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Anyone run into issues with the PROXIMITY SENSOR II ASSY. #A-16922-1. I am having a helluva time to get this thing to light up. I've replaced sensor and have concluded this is the issue. Unfortunately I have been unable to find this part anywhere.
The board is receiving current, however there seems to be an issue with current going to the Eddy Sensor.
Not sure how to fix this last remaining issue in my game.

You should post this to the TDM forum as this isn't a game specific part.

#524 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

So if I have the balls in the correct places (which it should be after I start it up and it moves the balls) I should be able to go into the switches and then see the eyes set as open as the balls should be there?

Yes, it should look exactly like the matrix I posted.

Quoted from ibjames:

I think something is going on the left ones as once in a while it will send out a ball to my left side out of no where. Would one of my yellow targets in the upper left that has the odd piece on it, that is having problems registering hits, would that affect this?

Probably not, this is more likely related to an optical switch, or switch matrix problem. What is most likely happening is a poor connection (wired or soldered) is making the game think your ball is in the subway, so it kicks out one of the pre-loaded balls onto the playfield. You should see this type of problem in switch test; with the game in single switch test, shake the machine, tap on the playfield, etc ... to see if one of the switches changes state , if it does you know what needs to be fixed.

These type questions should be posted to the TDM (tech: modern games) forum since that's the thread where most of the experienced techs follow.

#525 3 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

I am having a helluva time to get this thing to light up.

Are you saying when you adjust it it doesn't light?

#544 3 years ago

First ... this is an excellent find, you have properly diagnosed a switch matrix grid problem and isolated the issue to a single diode, you just don't know it yet. As I explained in a previous post the triggering of a subway switch is supposed to kick a ball back into play. However, you are seeing this false triggering when you press the left target buttons .... why?

To explain the why, you have to understand the theory of the switch matrix, the switch matrix works because only one column can be active at any given time, the CPU drives a single column low then looks for these low pulses on all eight rows; any closed switch pulls the entire row low and any row that reports low means the corresponding switch for that row and column is closed.

Each switch has a blocking diode to prevent its activation from pulling the rows low when its own column is inactive, if this diode is shorted or installed backwards, the switch will operate normally; however, given the right condition this bad diode will allow the switch its installed in to pull the row low, causing whatever switch is in the same row, and on the active column to be read as closed.

Your video is pretty consistently pointing to bad drop target diode. I speculate that if you were to remove all the balls, press and hold your BUY IN button, then press your Left Top Bank target, you will see the Right Bottom lane switch activate. If this doesn't happen, my theory is incorrect.

A second way to verify this would be to go into coil test and raise your drop target switch, with this switch open, you should no longer see any of the left bank switches activate the Under Borg Hole switch.


#546 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

Do I need to replace the whole thing?

No, just the diode; it's a 1N4004 and is located across the drop target switch, it could just be in backwards, the diode has a stripe on one side and the striped side should never have a wire on it.


#548 3 years ago
Quoted from DrScoops:

Joined the club a couple of weeks ago. Been having so much fun I haven't even taken a break to post here.
Two initial questions:
1) the diverter at the top of the delta ramp. I can't seem to decipher when it is supposed to be in each position. It does move back and forth, I think it's working, but I'm curious to know.
2)my colorDmd arrived. I have installed one in my PotC with no issues. Anything I should worry about with the ST:TNG install?

First off, CONGRATULATIONS! You now have an iconic pinball machine!

Answer 1) The Delta ramp diverter should always turn unless...
a. The Delta Ramp Lock is lit
b. You are in Borg Multiball mode
Answer 2) No its super easy, as soon as mine was installed, I pulled both HV fuses from the Display board; by doing so, all of the high voltage components remain in a de-energized state. I did this because I would have no way to know if there was a malfunction with these circuits and didn't want to risk burning a card and to also to eliminate the heat produced by this section of the board.

#550 3 years ago


#565 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

turn it back on, same problem, I lift it up, and the clip is off again and it is bent.

What clip? Please post a picture of this problem.

#566 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

upper right switch 58 was throwing an error, it is also connected via the same wire as the drop target, so I put it back, and it seemed ok, but it would keep falling off.

What is falling off, the wire? Does it have a little pink connector that keeps sliding off the switch?

oh... it broke off

All wires should be going in towards the center of the board so they cant get pinched


#567 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

The upper flipper didn't change, I can't get it to work. The initial test doesn't throw a code.. I'm going to order a switch and put it in and see how I fare

Each flipper button controls a pair of switches for UL, LL, and UR, LR flippers. It doesnt matter if the game has 4 flippers or not they are all there. The question is this ... when you are in switch test, does pressing the flipper button register 2 switch closures?

#582 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

That PBL tool... is good for one or two connectors.
Which is why I almost always go for broke and install new crimp style connectors using this tool:

Seriously? What are you doing with your tool? I punched every single IDC in STTNG with that tool and its fine.

#583 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

You think I get this corrected it'll make the upper flipper work?

nope. That is a separate issue

#584 3 years ago

All these Troubleshooting topics really should be posted in the TDM (Tech modern games) forum.

#588 3 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

It's not just me... everyone I've discussed this with tends to agree. The plastic tool just fails after a few connections.

maybe I just got a good one, or they are just making them out of cheaper plastic This past weekend I hammered in some 16awg wires into a 22-24 socket for test plug and its still okay

#593 3 years ago

Get it from pinrestore, this is where is got mine http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html you can get the .156 and .100 for $30

EDIT: That's a good price from Pin Life ... I shop there a lot as well, you should pick up both sizes while you are buying things. The IDC connector is $0.30 http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1597

Don't forget the polarizing key http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1629

#595 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do I have the right part for the piece? it is a 5 pin connector right?

get it from pinlife so you can get everything from the same source of supply ... I linked it above

#597 3 years ago

STTNG restoration finally complete, the last thing I had left was replacing the old scratched up speaker panel graphic. I actually ended up buying a new wood panel from VirtuaPin http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=116 for $30.


#601 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

New spring is way stronger, almost too strong? It's also red. Weird.

That is weird, the only springs that should be red are the ones for the subway diverter coils.

#603 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

What do you use those for?

Those are to set the key pin ... the key pin is what prevents you from putting connectors where they don't belong. They are VERY important on the power board where you can blow shit up if you put them on the wrong spot, but proper keying of connectors is a good habit to get into.

If you take a close look at a circuit board header, you will see they are all missing a pin, and the circuit board has an arrow showing what pin should be missing. In the picture below, pin 3 is missing.


Now if you look at the connector, that goes on this header, you will see there is a key pin in position 3. This prevents you from putting this connector on any header that does not have pin 3 removed.

#604 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do you have a shaker in that?

I don't; I'm just not a fan of shakers.

#607 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

ayfield) so it doesn't shake, it is like 2 inches or so long, is by the delta quadrant ramp, anyone have the exact measurements of that post? I can't find it online anywhere

This part is listed in the missing 16 pages of the parts manual http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Green_16-9932/index.html#/388/

But ... I'm pretty sure it's PN 02-4934 http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/star-trek-tng/star-trek-tng-ramp-hex-post.html

I have never purchased anything from ministry of pinball ... they just happen to not list it as no longer available; curious though, what happened to yours? this is a part that should never go bad.

#608 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do you think they affect reliability?

Probably not, I just don't care for them. I have two machines with shakers and have them disabled on both.

#615 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

I bought it like that, maybe they lost it? I just noticed the ramp moves a bit, so I looked further into it

can you post a pic of the spot you are talking about?

#622 3 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Relatively new to the club. Quick question, on power-up, my right (not both) cannon swings out and back in. Is it supposed to do this?

Yes on the right, no on the left; as others have mentioned, I wouldn't loose any sleep over it unless it doesn't work in game.

3 weeks later
#643 3 years ago
Quoted from Williestyle:

Please point out something obvious that I'm missing so I can feel like an idiot for 5 minutes then fix and play my game!

1. Power driver board J118 and or J126 is disconnected as either one of these will cause both cannons to stop working

2. Motor and or 12V DC power not plugged into motor EMI boards; these would have to both be disconnected

#646 3 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

you know the way the cannons have two switches,
home and i cant remember the other one.
i was just thinking,can you not launch the ball until the 2nd switch has registered ?
to stop people firing the ball back down the popper.
I have two sttng at the moment.(got the 2nd in a bulk buy as a dead game)
on the right cannon on one machine you cant fire the cannon for ages after it swings out.
is this the problem?

The mark switch controls the cannon fire angle. If this switch is closed, firing the cannon is inhibited. One problem you may be seeing is that the original switch was a DA3 made by Cherry. http://sigma.octopart.com/5355578/image/Cherry-DA3CB1AA.gif

Cherry stopped manufacturing this switch and the closest replacement is a DB3. I personally do not like this switch and would never use one if the the DA3 was still available as it had gold plated internal contacts and would last forever (probably why they stopped making it)

Anyway, the DB3 substitute doesn't have the same mounting positions for the actuator arm, the problem here is that by replacing just the switch and reusing the original actuator arm (this method is highly used since it's cheaper as there is very little that can damage the arm itself), is that the slight difference in angle positioning is amplified by length of the angle and turns out to be problematic in this specific application.

Fortunately this can be resolved by a slight bending of the actuator arm and re positioning the the arm to the inner (high) switch position. The bending comes into play since the DB3 has a shorter actuator button than the DA3 had so you may need to bend the arm so it doesn't hit the end of the switch housing before closing the switch.

Did I mention how much I miss the DA3 and that this switch only cost $0.02 more than a DB3?

Good luck

#647 3 years ago

Random before & after pic from the restoration ...



#649 3 years ago

The metal brackets were ran through a parts tumbler for 5 days ... but, they were too pitted from corrosion for this restoration, so they were replaced with new.


The borg bracket, coils brackets and standoffs were all sanded smooth and painted; any area the ball contacts were then covered with mylar to prevent the ball from wearing the painted surfaces.

#650 3 years ago

Random Restoration Pic #2 ... the drop target assembly.


Ignore the L/R slingdhot brackets ... they were in the wrong parts bag.


2 weeks later
#661 3 years ago

Did I mention ... this is the only pin in my collection that I still play?

#663 3 years ago

Thank you, I also agree, STTNG is the best one. Even though the other don't get any play anymore, I like having them and not interested in selling any of them at this time.

#665 3 years ago

Yep, I play 1 or 2 games on it almost every day

#667 3 years ago

Time for another random rebuild pics ... this is for the special slingshot switches that were used in STTNG. If you are doing a rebuild an planning on tossing these switches ... DON'T DO IT!

Here is the switch still attached to the harness ... this was one of the better of the four, unfortunately I didn't take pictures of all these switches in every step of the restoration.


Switch Disassembled ...


Not the exact switch, but a similar one after straightening and tumbling...with new brass rivets of course; all the switches were tumbled together, but I only took one picture of a post tumbled switch before putting them all back together.


Completed switch ...


#669 3 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

mine has been down for a couple weeks, I used to play it every day..

Fix it...there is nothing that should keep it down that long

#671 3 years ago

To out newest member GPS ... Congratulations on your recent STTNG purchase!!!

#681 3 years ago

these are the parts you are looking for...you should be able to get these from a local hardware store. FYI, the graph paper is 5mm not 1/4"


#685 3 years ago

The most important thing to keep in mind when selecting these parts is...you want to have as little play as possible when mating the sleeve and screw, too much play and the sleeve will be able to move and cause damage to your playfield.

1 week later
#687 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Helping a friend. Hits start and ball does not launch. I'll get more info but I usually start thinking ball trough

Does it not load the catapult? (possible coil, wire, driver issue) or does it not launch the ball when you pull the trigger? (possible wire, trigger switch, or catapult switch)

I'm assuming the game starts, if not possible bad wire, or start switch...

...or you need to put in the required currency first

#689 3 years ago

Random picture ...

STTNG DMD Controller having a bubble bath ...

1090 (resized).JPG

#698 3 years ago

Random STTNG pic (my way of bumping)

IMG_1752 (resized).JPG

#719 3 years ago
Quoted from Bdkorn:

I am buying my first pin and I was wondering is there a recommended method to fully test STTNG to ensure everything is working?


I think this game would make an outstanding first game!
Why? First off, I feel this is the the single best game you can buy in its price range, others may feel differently about it, but this is my opinion.
Just to touch on the maintenance aspect for a minute, even NIB machines will break and require maintenance so no matter what you get, you will need to fix it; even the newer Stern Star Trek I purchased NIB was not trouble free; I had problems with the drop target, the Vengeance ship, a ball popper, the CPU board, and a light board.
There is a single reason that people say STTNG can require a ton of maintenance and the sole reason for that is the massive amount of features this game has. The playfield has three ball diverters, 23 optical switches, two proximity sensors, two gearbox assemblies with motors and linkage, a drop target, and three VUK assemblies. There are so many solenoids in the game that an additional driver board had to be added. Nearly all of these machines were on location and were maintained by an army of technicians with vastly different skill sets and whose solitary goal was to make the machine work again, this often times meant that the "temporary fix" used to get the machine operating became permanent; a single game can have many of these hacks causing several unrelated intermittent problems.
On the positive side ... it's all fixable and when fixed properly, this game will play as reliable and trouble free as any other game out there!
The side bonus of having a STTNG is that you will be exposed to nearly everything a pinball machine can have from a maintenance perspective so that when you get your 2nd, 3rd, 4th+ machines you will already know how to fix them.
Even machines sold as "fully shopped" can be nothing more than a routed machined that was somewhat cleaned and tested meaning the switches and lamps are all functional.

#720 3 years ago

IMG_1750 (resized).JPG

#725 3 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Also, be aware that STTNG is a heavy sucker to move.

you aren't kidding, I don't know if this is the the heaviest, but I sure don't want to move this up/down stairs ever again.

#739 3 years ago

IMG_1753 (resized).JPG

#741 3 years ago

Mine was done during a complete restoration, so from my perspective it was really easy. I had to do something with it cause it was not in a happy place at all as I had bare wood visible above the lanes with the game assembled.
380 (resized).JPG

There is one screw that prevents this from being easy job, it's the one in the picture below with the arrow pointing to it...You have to disassemble most of the upper playfield to get to it
doh! (resized).jpg

Side note: if you ever loose your left orbit opto, you have to do the same tear down to get at it, so do them at the same time.

#743 3 years ago

Very nice, this machine isn't an easy swap, so may as well disassembly everything and clean it all while its apart, and do all the mods you want while putting it back together.

1000 (resized).JPG

1001 (resized).JPG

#747 3 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

I exchanged my backboard for an illuminated one. To do this you obviously need to remove the original one - the only thing you need to completely remove is the borg ship if i remember correctly. It actually wasn't that hard to do, so I'd remove the backboard, apply the decal and re-mount it. Can't remember the laneguide screw being such a big problem.

maybe its not, all you have to do is remove the top corner playfield plastic PN 31-1803-1 to get at it (some parts removed for clarity)

IMG_0381 (resized).JPG

#764 3 years ago
Quoted from floyd1977:

That just entails hitting the start mode (center) scoop three times, right?

I thought you had to hit the Delta ramp at least once ... could be mistaken

#784 3 years ago

New subways are available, yours looks pretty standard to me. its's likely the original grease on the diverter mechanisms has probably hardened and is casung them to not operate as smooth as they should .

Subway pics :

1125 (resized).JPG

1126 (resized).JPG

#792 3 years ago
Quoted from Imeh:

It's only four mounts and a couple of plugs and it comes right out.

No issues getting it past the ball poppers?

#793 3 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

I'm having trouble suddenly with my spinner. It seems to be sliding over and away from the switch. Has anyone else had this problem?

This should not be possible since the switch activator should be sitting in a U-channel bent into the spinner shaft. Perhaps its not the right switch, or someone did something silly ... please post a picture so we can see whats going on.

3 weeks later
#829 3 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Can some please post a picture of the two under playfield diverters. Need to check wiring and orientation.

make sure you test this alignment thoroughly before putting it all back together. The only thing that is going to matter on the alignment is the ball should pass with minimal bounce (and no hang). I like to make sure that when the coil is de-energized on the lower diverter, the plunger hits the stop BEFORE the diverter arm can hit the plastic, I like to check this gap with a piece of heavy weight paper.

#830 3 years ago

subway (resized).jpg

#833 3 years ago
Quoted from Bdkorn:

VAC vs VDC question: I know the 6.3v GI sockets are AC powered. Besides them are there any other sockets or motors (esp. gun motors) that are not DC?


gun motors use unregulated 12VDC

well ... the controlled lighting is technically not DC as it's pulsed by the lamp matrix.

1 month later
#853 2 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Seems like I somehow lost power to both opto boards simultaneously. Are these fused?

Fused at the Power board only, you would know if it was blown since your display would tell you to check F116 unless you have a ColorDMD in which case you would have no display at all.

More than likely there is a broken wire (gry/yel) that goes to the boards

Edit: the 12V fuse is F116 not F118 ... needed a maginfying glass to read that The above still holds true as you would have no unregulated +12V

#854 2 years ago

12V (resized).jpg

#857 2 years ago
Quoted from Strohz:

Hmm, I'm curious to know about this as I can say mine does it as well. I always wondered if something was loose...maybe they are all that way?

I have seen this before on different machines, but mine does not have this behavior.

#866 2 years ago

I thought it was rather fun myself, took me roughly 20 hours to completely disassemble the play field ... 6 months to disassemble, clean, and repair everything that was going to be put back on. Followed by another 60ish hours to assemble and adjust everything; however, I did have several work stoppages while I tried to determine where in the hell part X came from.

You know you took enough apart when the bottom of your playfield looks like this ...
1223 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#887 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

What's up everyone...I joined the club today and I'm definitely excited to snag a great machine.

Welcome to the club! You will find tons of help here on everything related to the pin, please don't hesitate to ask.

Quoted from per3per3:

- Are the "hallmark" ships still available somewhere?

You can still get these on ebay at a decent price (~$10 last time I checked) . This is actually a good time of year to be looking for them if you aren't afraid to mod to them yourself. IMO the Romulan ship, while not simple, is far from difficult...I actually purchased 4 of them, assuming the at least one would be destroyed in the process.

#888 2 years ago
Quoted from jathomp22:

I haven't mounted them yet. But I did on my first STTNG and remember having to drill into them. I'm pretty sure I followed the above directions.
Edit: I never did mount the Enterprise on my first STTNG. I also couldn't find a good spot to mount it so I never put it in.

I haven't mounted the Enterprise on mine yet either as I never found a good place to put it

#889 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I actually purchased 4 of them, assuming the at least one would be destroyed in the process.

This one ... while it worked, I considered unacceptable as taking it apart in this fashion is a guarantee you will chip paint from areas that should be covered to prevent light from shining through. It wasn't worth my time or cost to repair as I was primarily concerned with removing the circuit board intact so I can analyze the circuit board to see it it was needed or not...it's not; IIRC, it basically has a bridge rectifier and zener diodes to apply a controlled DC voltage for each side of the ship. It also took a significantly longer amount of time to separate the ship in this fashion.

900 (resized).JPG

It really is best to just cut through the board and fix the wiring when done, I drilled through the first half, then cut out the board and moved the remaining wires out of the way of the hole saw before completing the second part of the hole.

937 (resized).JPG

958 (resized).JPG

#890 2 years ago

STTNG Memory ...

While looking for the Romulan ship pics, I came across this restoration picture that was one of my favorites ... its one of the first pictures after installing the playfield, head, and putting the legs back on. The machine wasn't completed since the playfield wasn't wired to the head and none of the serial number/inspection/warning decals are on the machine yet, but the machine was in better than new condition with 0 plays at this point.

IMG_1345 (resized).JPG

#896 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

My error report is telling me to check switch 31 (borg lock) and 48 (borg entry). I checked the manual and I can't figure out where these are so I can test them. I'd appreciate some help determining where they are and how to test them. They're both optos...right?

As others have said, they are common errors. To answer you your original questions, you are correct that they are both optos.

...and this is where they are located:

Borg Optos (resized).jpg

#900 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

1) With all of the other games (williams and stern) that I've owned, you can press and hold the start button once you're in ball #2 and you can restart a game. When I do this on the STTNG, it will restart the game but does so by immediately launching a ball automatically selecting flipper skill shot? Is this normal?

1) Yes, unfortunately this is normal behavior for the game.

2) You are on the right track, I would suspect the wiring harness or harness connection causing the cannon opto to fail from game vibrations. If this is the case, you can probably duplicate the problem by wiggling on the cannon harness while monitoring the Switch Edge test.

3) While the loop wire form comes very close to the glass, it really shouldn't hit it. The position of this wire form is not only controlled by it's own mounting to the playfield but also its mounting to the the Delta ramps wire form and it's positioning. You may be able to lower the loop by adjusting the position where these two wire forms connect.

#917 2 years ago
Quoted from nwpinball:

WTB: Lower right wire ramp. My project game's has too much rust on it to save.

I would call Marco and see if they are going to be getting more stock in for this item http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-7161. It's odd they have the Left side in stock but not the right.

#933 2 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

I thought greasing/lubing anything was a bad idea as it attracts fine metal dust particles and eventually gums up the mechanism. I just cleaned one of the subway ball diverters because of this, as the game could never load the right cannon.

Anything that makes metal on metal contact should be greased; on STTNG, this would include the rear ball diverter, both subway diverters, and both cannon shafts. All five of these parts were originally greased when the machine was first assembled. I use a good synthetic grease (a tiny amount goes a long way) on these and the slide rails. amazon.com link »

#947 2 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

What torque setting are you using?

I torque it until it feels like I should stop then I go another 1/8 turn.

2 weeks later
#972 2 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

How the heck do you remove the plastic crank from the gun motor ? How do I get that set pin out?

That is a very good question! First a minor correction to your statement, the crank is connected to the gearbox and not the motor; I felt this was worth mentioning since you do not need to remove the gearbox to replace the motor. You also don't need to remove the crank from the gearbox to remove the gearbox from its mounting bracket .... more on this in a minute.

My second question is why do you want to remove the crank? It looks perfectly fine and there is nearly nothing that can go wrong with it (aside from being able to get it off the gearbox and damaging it it the attempt) If you want to remove it in order to replace your gearbox, you will be wasting both time and money as a cheap punch from China will bend or break before it moves this pin, and a new pin and crank will cost you just as much, or less than a good hardened steel pin extractor of the appropriate size (there is still no guarantee you will remove the pin without damaging the crank.

Quoted from comment23:

Apparently Marco doesn't sell them already attached.

They don't, but you can buy a new crank for and a new roll pin for under $10. I believe the problem you are experiencing is you don't know how to remove the gearbox with the crank attached...this I can help you with!

Scenario 1: ( Original Gearbox) If you have an original gearbox, you can simply remove the motor from the gearbox by removing the two screws from the motors retaining bracket and the motor will pull right off the gearbox. With the torque from the motor removed from the equation, you should be able to hand turn the gearbox to align with the extraction hole, then just take out the screw that holds the crank to the arm.

Gun Motor (resized).jpg

Scenario 2: (replacement Gearbox) So your gearbox was replaced and the motor doesn't want to come off ... no worries! I've found that the motor mounting plate has been pressed onto the gearbox on some of the replacements I've come across; at first, this will seem to be a problem, but realistically, it's just not worth screwing with; all you need to do is separate the motor voltage connector, and hook up a 9V battery to the motor in order to rotate it until the crank screw lines up with the extraction hole, then just take out the screw that holds the crank to the arm. You will then be able to remove the motor/gearbox assembly with the crank attached.

Scenario 3: (the gearbox won't turn at all) Ahhh...this makes things harder for sure. Fortunately, you have a new grarbox and motor since they are purchased together, hopefully you purchased the new crank and roll pin at the same time, if not ... you will want to get them. Use your favorite cutting tool and just cut the crank on half and remove the gearbox from the mounting bracket, you can then remove the remainder of the crank from the arm as it will freely rotate to wherever you need it to be to remove the crank/arm screw.

Disclosure: I attempted to extract this pin using a cheap China extractor set, then with a decent Carbon Steel 3/32" pin punch, the one from china just bent, and the one made in the USA was unable to move the pin...after beating on it for awhile and getting nowhere, I had to wonder why I was even screwing with it at all since I had replacement pins and cranks in my parts bin

#974 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

The potential repairs on this pin do scare me a bit though.

Think of them all as learning experiences, unless you afraid of learning, there is nothing to fear since you belong to an outstanding support community!

#997 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Any STTNG owners also own a MET Pro? I'm trying to decide between a 1 owner HUO MET Pro with the wooden backbox (all leds added) and a 1 owner HUO STTNG without any mods.

I would take the HUO STTNG any day of the week over the MET Pro, I would actually prefer one with no mods since I can put on the mods I want and skip the ones I don't. If its truly a HUO machine, chances are the board set is in pristine condition and the machine is hack free; hell I would buy it even if the MPU had acid damage as long at the machine was in a climate controlled environment for the whole 20+ years.

There will be things the machines needs at this age, and even a NIB one would at this point. The following items were greased during assembly with a clay based grease that will now be hardened:
Upper Subway Diverter
Lower Subway Diverter
Borg Diverter
Left cannon Screw
Right Cannon Screw

You will want to remove disassemble these parts, clean off all the old grease, and reapply a TINY amount of a good PFTE synthetic to these parts.

#1008 2 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

I just got the Borg ship acrylic windows. Any tips on putting these in without smearing glue everywhere?

I just set the windows in place and went around the edges with a GOOD hot glue gun to hold them in place ... no issues. A good hot glue gun will be able to put down a thin consistent line of glue. I prefer using hot glue since a moderate amount of force will break the window away and give you a mulligan if you make a mistake.

I fitted all the parts and then numbered them in the order I was going to glue them in before I glued any of them.

1092 (resized).JPG

1103 (resized).JPG

#1021 2 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

With regards to both windows. Green or blue? I see both for sale...

This is going to be mainly a personal preference, the sole reason I went with green for my ship was because I opted to use a Borg ship graphic for my back panel.

912 (resized).JPG

As you can see, green is the theme here and I wanted the ship to match. I actually have two Borg ships, one in green and one in blue in case I decide to change it at some point in the future.

#1027 2 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

Looks like they sell that decal at the below link for $35.

This is where I purchased mine, I also have the Star Trek The Next Generation
Backboard Decal that I decided not to go with for my build, if interested in obtaining that one, PM me and I'll give you a good price on it.

Quoted from pezpunk:

very cool, Pin_Guy -- do you have any images of it installed?

I dont have a great pic of it, I have one with the glass on that's getting color reflections from off the glass since its actually a shot of the color DMD ... I don't mind pulling the glass and taking one of it with the ship light on if you'd like, just let me know.

IMG_1726 (resized).JPG

#1029 2 years ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Can someone recommend a place to order the LX-7 ROM and provide some of idea of what's involved to actually change out the ROM?

It's in a chip socket, you just need to pop it out; you can use a small flat blade screwdriver and work it out by alternately lifting on each side a little at a time until it comes out. When you put the new one in, you just need to watch that its oriented properly and that all the pins are lined up in the socket before you push it in. There's really nothing to it.

ebay.com link » Williams Star Trek The Next Generation Pinball Machine Cpu Rom Upgrade Lx7

#1035 2 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Quick question guys. When I turn in my game is says Rev LA5. I suspect that this is not the latest software. What's the consensus regarding updating to latest rev?

Do it! Here's why:

Version L-7
Change log:

Added adjustment A.2 27 Poker Night. Set to OFF to disable
Poker Video Mode selection.

Version L-6
Changes log:

Added adjustment A.2 25 Restart After Warp. Set to NO to inhibit
the warp factor feature from resetting after warp 9.

The "Thank you, Mr. Data" flipper bonus now works only if both
flipper buttons are pressed.

Changed the 1/2 credit sound.

Enhanced the logic on the catapult to let the ball settle on
it before launching.

Increased the scoring during Final Frontier.

Added adjustment A.2 26 Super Spinner. Set to OFF to inhibit the
super spinner from lighting on warp 6.

Fixed Ferengi and Cardassian Multiballs. They were not correctly
handling the case of all the balls quickly draining.

#1036 2 years ago
Quoted from Pike614:

Does anyone have a picture of the before and after install of the outlane extenders?
I am curious if the machine I have already has them installed!

If the screw at the end of the lane is right at the very end, and is the same on both sides, then you don't have them.

268 (resized).JPG

#1052 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Sorry, not to rehash an old post but what is special about the sttng sling switches? They look similar to others I replaced. Are they hard to find?

These are no longer manufactured, they are different because the wire connections come off the side of the switch. The normal switches have the connections at the end of the blades but because of the cannons, there isn't enough clearance to have the wires comming off the back of the switch. I believe these particular switches were only used on STTNG and Road Show.

#1053 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Do they make ramp protectors for both sides of the delta ramp? Mine is busted and figured I could get a protector instead of a whole new ramp. I have a really long one on the left side. The ones I have seen for sale appear shorter so I am hoping it's the one I need.

In fact, they do!
IMG_1357 (resized).JPG

In your picture, you seem to be missing the standoff for the Delta ramp ball return. This is a part that could be difficult to find

#1057 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Do you mean the tall hexagon post that the wire form mounts to? What is the length? I think I can find one.

Yes, it's 2.25" tapped on both sides.

331 (resized).JPG

#1065 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Interesting, the post screwed into my playfield has a female end to receive this post. I think I need a male post on one end.

This is very interesting, I never did confirm that the post the standoff screws into was correct in my...I'm now thinking it's not; unfortunately I don't have a copy of the Williams green parts catalog, and the online version of it is missing the entire metal post section.

My machine has the post in the picture installed...
402 (resized).JPG

The STTNG manual does show a ramp post with part number 02-4934 which is available at bay area amusement http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=baa&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MP-02-4934 and could be your missing post!

#1069 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

The two in the middle, not the slingshots.

The one you are holding (31-1803-27) is for sure, its needed to prevent balls from getting stuck under the delta ramp. See pictures for placement.

332 (resized).JPG

Delta ramp removed for clarity
343 (resized).JPG

The other clear part I don't recognize, judging by the curvature of the rounded cut, it looks like its designed for a pop bumper area, but I don't know what game it's from.

#1070 2 years ago

This is a picture of my STTNG that I like a lot. It's of the first layer of the upper playfield and shows a lot of stuff you normally can see making it a good reference document. Keep in mind that this game did not ship with a lower pop bumper cap; the one in the photo has not yet been cut to fit around the Beta Ramp.

STTNG Playfield level 1 (resized).jpg

#1088 2 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Does anyone have a count of each type of bulb used in STTNG? I'm looking to put together my own LED kit, but I don't know how many GI, flashers, etc are in the game. The inserts I can count, but I wanted to have a good idea instead of guessing.


according to the linked manual, there are thirty-six #555's and eight #906 in the backbox. and another fifty-one #555's and eleven #906 on the playfield; so eighty-seven #555 and nineteen #906.

Apparently there were two #44, two #89 (even though these aren't used in the game), five #555, and one #906 in the caxh box spare parts bag.

There are two #555 in the cabinet for START and TO BE CONTINUED BUTTONS, as well as two #555 in the coindoor for the coin mechs, I don't think these were included in the total.

#1089 2 years ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

i'm a big fan of the flex-head LEDs. i bend them so that they are pointed directly towards the insert, but as far away as possible. that makes them diffuse across the insert more completely with less of a "hot spot".

These are absolutely perfect for the Warp Nacelles

#1093 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Word of warning - STTNG uses GI dimming during game play (Borg mulitball when you are taking damage, for example) which makes GI OCD mandatory if you use LEDs in the GI and the shield inserts.

Yes and no, STTNG does have dimming circuitry for the GI, but Adjustment A.1 - 25 allows you to disable this feature. With this set to disabled your GI lights will not flicker at all.

#1095 2 years ago

This is true, but GI OCD if far from "mandatory" for the shield inserts, the only one that can decide this is the OP. If he feels the shield dimming feature is worth the cost of the OCD board then he should get one

#1122 2 years ago

Things that make you say "COOL!"

Did you know, there is a way to pass instruction codes to your MPU?

For instance, entering the code 8556 in your game will bring up a list of Steve Ritchie games. To get the game listening for code entry, all you do is press both flipper buttons (B), then hit the left (L) flipper button the same number of times as the code you are entering, so 8 times to set an 8, to enter the number and move to the next digit you press the right (R) button. After entering the 4th number you hit the right button again to execute, meaning all codes will end with 2 presses of the right button. Simplified B, 8L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 6L, 2R.

#1149 2 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

The STTNG playfield is very heavy populated so I don't want to leave it on the rotisserie with the wiring harness, subway, cannon motors and VUK mechs for very long. Will complete the rest of the swap in the cabinet where the playfield will have better support.

I do understand the concern here, but you have both the top wood rails and the slide rails in place, both of these will help prevent the playfield from warping. I would recommend at least installing all of the wiring harnesses while the table is on the rotisserie, the time and aggravation you will save by working on it in this position cannot be overstated.

harness install (resized).jpg

#1155 2 years ago

It acting like its trying to pre-load the VUK's, but I can't tell from the video if the ball has enough momentum to make it to the subway entry behind the drop target or not, my guess is that it doesn't.

Another clue is if the game is pulling the drop target down before launching the ball, then it's trying to put a ball into the subway.

#1161 2 years ago

My next recommendation is also to check your target up/target down functionality from the tests menu. If its working fine, please remove all the balls and check that all your optos read closed while in switch edge, feel free to post a picture of the matrix it shows you. When you put the balls back in, drop one into each of the three VUK's, and the remainder three in the trough, recheck the matrix, it should show open switches at 36, 37, 41, 64, 65, and 66. Start a game, it should not eject/cycle balls at this point.

The two switch errors you are showing are likely caused by not making the Delta Ramp shot into the Borg ship, these are common errors to encounter.

#1165 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Also I called him and asked if he would give me the old aux board (the original one) but he said he sold it to a buddy of his.

I was just going to ask about that since this board would have been very easy to fix.

#1169 2 years ago

Still a lot a tests away from thinking a board is bad. To run the drop target tests you need to be in test T4 (solonoid Test) this test will allow you to cycle through the different solenoids one at a time, you can also repeatedly test a single solenoid. THe drop target has both up and down solenoids, you are primarily concerned with down.

#1172 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Thanks, I'll try that next. No wires have come disconnected, so would that make it less likely that the rottendog board has blown?

The aux board does drive both target up and down solenoids and you could have a stuck up solenoid...but it can also be a mechanical problem with the target itself. When you run the Target up test, you should hear it fire and release, it also wouldn't hurt to lift the playfield (power off and balls removed) and feel the coils to see how hot they are. CAUTION, if these are stuck on they could be hot enough to burn you.

#1175 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Could the rottendog board have gone bad and that's why the target doesn't go down.

It could if its locking the Target up coil on, which is likely the case. You can easily prove this by removing the glass, opening the coin door and tapping the target with your finger, it should snap right down.

#1177 2 years ago

When the target is up, it rests on a tiny ledge and has a spring trying to pull it down, if you tap it it should fall (with power off) if it drops, the problem is electrical, if it doesn't it's mechanical

#1181 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

I just took the glass off and tried pushing on the drop target from the top of the playfield, it just moved backwards but didn't fall. Should I push on it under the playfield also?

It could be jammed with something, the coil sleeve could be warped from heat and holding the plunger up ... you are going to have to lift the playfield to see whats up.

Here is some information that can help you identify the working parts

Drop Target (resized).jpg
1122 (resized).JPG

#1182 2 years ago

It looks like your Drop Target Lever is stuck Closed and binding against the plastic target, it should be open like in the pictures I attached.

#1184 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Ok, take a look at this video. Is that long metal thin piece a switch? Is that where its supposed to be?

Yes that the switch actuator and that's whats binding. You can see in the pictures I posted that I cut mine so that it wouldn't be long enough to jam like that. I also used the protective plate to prevent it from moving out of position.

#1185 2 years ago

Good find pcprogrammer! Looks like an easy no-cost fix for you

#1188 2 years ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

That little metal arm is kinda loose, it has a lot of play in it. Is that normal? How did you cut the arm?

it should have some play to it but not super sloppy, you can pull these off and tighten them a little with a pair of pliers, the first one you do is the hardest because they don't want to come off and you have to figure out what works best for you. I use a small scribe to get behind them and pop them off.

To be honest though, if you just flip that plastic piece over, it wont be possible for the switchs' lever to get on the wrong side of the drop targets plastic actuating tab.

I used a pair of wire cutters to cut the actuator arm with, it was fairly easy to cut.

#1191 2 years ago

I would pull it off and try and and squeeze it a bit to see if it will snap back on, it could just be bent.

#1193 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Take the metal arm off, bend in the two eyelids, put back on. Done.

It really is just that easy.

#1217 2 years ago

pcprogramer I was looking at your video of the repaired drop target and would like to offer a suggestion.

The current location of the switch insulator pad on your drop target switch seems incorrect as it has no function in its current location. I feel this pad should be on the opposite side of the switch where the switch attaches to a metal plate, this will allow it to offer some protection of a bent lead on the switch shorting to ground; additionally, having this insulator behind the switch will add additional clearance between the drop target and the actuator arm, allowing it to fully clear the drop target rather than dragging on it.

STTNG #9 (resized).jpg

#1222 2 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

Alright, anyone have a suggestion on how to reduce the voltage to this diode laser. It is rated for 5v. The cannon motor is 12v. It fries the laser. Is there a resistor or something that would knock the current down to 5-6v?

Yes, the formula for the resistor (R) is:

R= (Vs - Vf) / I

Where R will be the value of the resistor; Vs is the source voltage, 12V in this case; and Vf is the forward voltage of the LED, 5V in your case. So the value of the resistor is going to be 7 / I where I is the current through the laser, this is unknown to me.

If it was 20mA or .02A you would come up with a value of 350 ohms.

To calculate the wattage of the resistor you will to multiply the diodes forward (Vf) times the Current (I) draw the diode. In the example, I used 20mA for I, so the wattage would calculate .1; while you can use a 1/8W resistor, I would use the next higher wattage resistor which would be 1/4 Watt.

If you don't like doing the math, there are plenty of on-line calculators to perform the math for you.

**The resistor is hooked up in series with the LED.

edited for standard led current of 20mA ... again, you need to substitute the true current draw of your laser diode for I. If the laser is too bright, increasing the resistor value will reduce the power of the laser.

#1224 2 years ago

That's a valid point Zitt, but I think I would throw caution to the wind on this one...even if you reduce the lasers life expectancy by a factor of 100 it's still going to be good for 1000 hours, and 1000 hours runtime on a STTNG cannon means it will work for generations

#1226 2 years ago

You should get a lot of oppinions on this as this piece really never seemed to fit well. When I did my restore, I replaced this plastic as it was bent and scratched from being wedged against the delta ramp.

What I did was pulled out my Dremel and used it to trim the top part of the delta ramp so this piece can mount without hitting the ramp. This in no way decreased the strength of the delta ramp as there is still plenty of material there.

Before (resized).jpg

IMG_1886 (resized).JPG

#1228 2 years ago
Quoted from saber07:

Alpha ramp issue:
The alpha ramp issue doesn't appear to be impacting anything gameplay wise. I realized I had the diode backwards after some screenshots of this switch were provided by a local pin forum. I swapped the diode, but it is still trigerring the other switches. Like I said, nothing seems to be impacted gameplay wise, but any idea what could be causing this? The switches are all on the same row (23,33,43), so it seems like that might be some type of clue.

Saber, I just reviewed your original post and am sure you have a switch matrix problem in row. To be honest I didn't see a problem with the diode in your first picture, but