Well being that the current conversation is about screens, I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a way to adjust the horizontal position of the image? I have a line or two from the main screen showing on the left side of the mini screen, so I'd like to nudge the image on the main screen a bit to the left if possible. I know you can do this on other manufacturer's screens, but I can't seem to find any buttons on the screen itself or in the service menu.

If anyone knows of a way to do this, I would appreciate it.

Maybe it’s just my bad wide angle pics, looks great in person. I was kicking around the idea of a flexible OLED under a playfield protector but that was getting too complex. A projector wouldn’t work.

IMG_5835 (resized).jpeg

Samsung and LG just released 100% transparent OLED displays. It’s not going to be long before we can hover a display OVER the playfield like the P3

I agree, eventually that may be a solution. Also looked at the backboard like 86Pixels did for Tron but too far away to be helpful.

Has anyone received their apron, screen bezel, etc? Not worried about it, but curious now that Ripleys are going out.

What about mounting it on the apron like we used to do with WoZ?

I'm not sure what is going on with accessories. I placed on order for Beacons on December 30th and so far zippo.

That’s all I got too.

IMG_0883 (resized).jpeg

Thought they weren't coming until Feb?

Do you remember the jumper settings you used on the capture board? I have been trying to direct capture the screen for a while now.

Just checked PB website. End of January for head, bezel and apron. Feb for topper. Beacons still show Nov 23.

You got to not use weapons to progress to earn the next weapons right?

Good idea. I’m trying to figure out the least obnoxious way to get the Ambush information in the game. This seems to work on the back but the apron will be next round.

IMG_5849 (resized).jpeg

Like this?

IMG_0811 (resized).jpeg

Nope, it doesn't matter if you used it or not.

Yes, you need to short Gnd and S1 as in this picture.

IMG_5853 (resized).jpeg

That looks strangely familiar! Probably will throw in the towel and copy you. Thanks for the direction on this, it’s awesome.

What do you all have the center magnet strength set to? It seemed like the ball grab right on my RE out of box was like 98%, but last night it was like 10%. Turned it up to 10% strength and not sure if it helped, but did notice the ball will occasionally get whipped into the airlock now when you hit the Xeno.

A-yep! Although I’d prefer it in the middle, but I see why you didn’t do that lol

Thought I would post to see if someone else has experienced this. My RV came out of the box with the backbox led lighting not working. I'm referring to the leds that are attached to the inside of the pc enclosure, the strip taped to the top of the backbox is working. Anyway, been working with PB support (they really are awesome and responsive), and so far I've been sent new leds to try and a brand new backbox interface board and yet the issue remains. All of the leds are dark, with exception of LED #1 that is faintly dim.

Genius! Please do tell how to DIY this!

Don't believe they've been coded for, even though there are EOS connectors on the boards

The T-nut flange should be on the opposite side from where you're screwing in the screw, such that it pulls everything between the T-nut flange and screw head together. If the "fitting" (I assume you're referring to the T-nut) is coming out, then it implies that the T-nut is installed on the wrong side of the hole or the screw needs to be installed from the other side. As a reference the T-nut in your picture is the wrong way around (the T-nut's prongs should be facing towards the screw head.

Here's how it should look - hope this helps

pasted_image (resized).png

My journey was a lot of trial and error so I didn't take pics or keep track of steps. I know the correct LVDS splitter to buy is the V20 version on this page:

https://geekworm.com/products/lvds-to-hdmi-adapter-board-converter-with-lvds-cable

Maybe dts can chime in with steps or pics.

Have friends over and game went down so anyone online know a fix for the hypersleep lock not popping the ball out? It sees it in switch test and the coil post pops it.

Gonna search too but bummer for opening party.

***

Fixed by increasing the lock coil power to +20%

Likely a problem with the mech seizing up. Confirm if the coil is trying to fire by manually lifting up on the mech when it is supposed to fire. If the coil is firing, loosen the screws on the hypersleep lock mech and re-tighten. That's all it took to fix mine and it has been rock solid for 2 years now. If the coil isn't firing at all, check the solder joints on the coil.

Fixed it. I recall out of the box it was set to +40% on the coil power. I think I set it to default earlier today and just never got one up there till later on tonight. The platform wasnt even twitching then when I got to +20% worked perfectly. Nothing obstructs and smooth. Glad it’s working for remaining of the party.

I'm so eager to get my Alien-RV but it's still a ways out.

I saw the post from a couple of days ago showing a machine with what looked like green fluorescent plastic protectors. It looks absolutely stunning and I'm thinking of maybe purchasing a set.

But it got me wondering. How well would the playfield react to having some sort of UV light kit and clear plastic protectors?

I have UV lights in my room and other than the yellow flippers not much glows. If you had the green fluorescent protectors they of course would.

That’s the board, and this is how the connections look inside, with the short at ground and S1 for lower resolution incoming signal, hdmi to hdmi mini depending on the display chosen.

IMG_5798 (resized).jpegIMG_5799 (resized).jpegIMG_5800 (resized).jpegIMG_5801 (resized).jpeg

I have a RV and guessing it has the smaller version because I could not get the mini teeth mod to work this even after trying for a while. Just gets stuck or doesn’t go all the way back to drop the ball. I removed it and back to working 100% every time.

Anyone else trying to come up with a plan to light up their RVs side art?

Also on the subject of light-while I do like the dark atmosphere, it’s just too dark in my room as I only dim the lights which has never been issue with my other games. So thinking of where to put some spotlights but not overly saturate it like stadiums. Maybe apron strips I can home make for a look too.

LV doesn’t have the new mods like painted xeno head, sculpted screen frame, and apron decal. LV has beacons Rv have to purchase. LV sideart is lit up.

All bling the playfields and software are identical.

- Shaker motor
- Alien queen translite art package
- Egg bumpers are the bursting open eggs
- lit art blades inside
- the beacon lights up top.

I own an LV the past year I might be missing something

You don't happen to have a pic of the connector plugged into the computer? I hooked up everything just like that on a couple tries in the past. I wonder if my two different capture cards just didn't like something with the signal? Going to try just hooking up a spare monitor next to see if it pics up the signal

Here’s mine. I used an external power supply to light the backboard and trough, along with the backbox. My camera is washing out the light a bit, it’s clearer in person.

IMG_0365 (resized).jpeg

I don't have a picture, but it should look like the existing connection that you have to the main LCD, but with the spare cable, I believe red wires left on the game board. If you don't see the signal pass through the board to the existing monitor, it is either the adapter board or the cables, perhaps reseat them. If you do have the signal through the board to the game's main LCD, but not your mirror screen display, check to see if the short pin is at default dual 8 and move it to single 8 at Ground and S1 for lower resolution signal coming in. The game display is set to 800 x 480, unfortunately. The resolution switch on the adapter board has to accept the signal source at the lower resolution to pass through to the mirrored LCD. And of course check your HDMI cable as well to the split screen. One of the things that is annoying on the game is the screen resolution is set so low, so the smaller screen certainly looks much better due to the compression. I'm baffled why they didn't copy the original and put it in the playfield. It worked great on mine, no chipping etc. But with this mod, I'm happy.

You have to use the exact board (V20) I linked above. Other boards do not work - I tried several before I found the one that worked.

I ordered the v20 will I need to buy the cables if so what and what little screen do you recommend
Thanks

I have 3 of those, tried them all. Any monitor I have around doesn't see a signal with any of them. I tried using an HDMI splitter box too. Even switching OBS to different resolutions doesn't see anything. This baffles me

I used this one:

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Full-HD-7-Inch-1920-1080_1600279078887.html?__detailProductImg=https%3A%2F%2Fs.alicdn.com%2F%40sc04%2Fkf%2FHb3771518672b44d6babf62e4969f279a2.png_200x200.png

But you have to order 2 of them.

Did you short the resolution switch on the board to single 8?

I tried all options on the jumpers. Nothing

At this point I wonder, since my game was a very early one, that if have different motherboard or a different display causing config differences. Seems odd that I cannot get this to work.

I am finally getting around to updating code on my game to 4.0. When I went to Pinball Bros site to download the code, it was confusing.

It says to go the bottom of the page to download but I don't see a link there. A bit above that it has Link 1 and Link 2. Are those links the download for 4.0 updated code? Which one? Any insight from original SV or LV owners is appreciated.

Yes those are links to download the software - the first one is to Dropbox and the second to Google drive (both contain the same code update, I guess they provide both in case one site is down or someone has problem with downloading it from one of the sites).

You need to upgrade to 3.2 first and also upgrade the firmware to 0.71

Thank you. I updated to 3.2. Does 4.0 have to be downloaded to Google Drve or Dropbox first? When I updated to 3.2 I just, downloaded the to a folder and copied it to my usb. Is the 4.0 process any different?

No new news on the Lior topper?

Hi Alien people!

I am posting my ticket to Pinball Brothers describing a problem i am having with my early run SV.

I read a lot of these posts and see that some have left older code on their SV's . I upgraded to 3.2 and have the Apron mod too .

I believe my issue is related to the software upgrade , because it is primarily a "multiple boot-ups" issue. I can play for hours after booting up 3 or 4 times.

Thanks for any help!

<<<< I was running my early model SV on older software 2.7 , i believe and upgraded to 3.2. I do not have the latest firmware.

I have a weird issue where it takes 3 or 4 times to get it to boot up (turn machine on) to a playable condition.

First boot:

Sometimes the screen doesn't come on or screen comes on and it doesn't recognize the coin door functions and isn't able to start a game ; although the start button is flashing.

Second Boot (turned game on and off) :

Game will appear to boot up fine and now recognizing the coin door. Will not start a game and or will start a game , but the drop targets will not register. I did receive a replacement drop target board at some point. (new drop target parts were sent by PB in March 21, 2022)

3rd boot (turn on and off again :

For the most part booting 3 or 4 times ; depending on if the Alien head successfully tests the tongue ; will result in the game playing fine. I can play for hours without a problem.

Please let me know what you think.

I am reluctant to proceed without some advice because the original SV's were made with parts and boards that may have been upgraded.
Thanks

Ed Z >>>>>>

On the install/download page they state that if you go to 3.2 the latest firmware is required for it to work right. I just recently did it on an early SV from 2.8 to 3.2(+latest firmware), then to 4.0 and reboot and it's been fine (other than the occasional black screen boot still happening). I rebooted before trying anything so I can't confirm if your issues are normal, but since you don't have the firmware installed, I would start there.