Automakers are going through the same problems worldwide with semiconductor shortages. I'm not surprised its hitting small pinball companies too. If that is the issue, they could communicate that better.

They list RAZA as preorder so interesting they would say in-stock. But they also list Alien with a deposit as a payment option

The talk of some switch issues makes me think there's a potential magnetic reed switch upgrade for some of these trouble spots. They are non-contact, so maybe an upgrade option? I did those on my rick and morty on some of the areas that the ball could miss a mechanical switch due to speed/clearance

Has anyone figured out the resolution of the main LCD screen yet?

Okay, so when we get the pin in our hot little hands, is there a link to download the latest code?

Found it!

https://pinballbrothers.freshdesk.com/support/home

Gane arrived yesterday, got it set up today. Muther eject won't alway kick the ball with enough force to kick it out. Does it with the uodated code. Anyone else have this issue? I even put the strength up +50% and no change in behavior

Got ours Friday, set it up on Saturday. Had to fuss with the muther eject as it couldn't eject balls, whipped up a workaround that barely ejects it at +50%.

Played about 4 hours last night on stream. Game was a lot of fun! Outlanes are very, very hungry

Today, turned it on and got an Cabinet IO not found. Ugh

Thanks for that should be a key post.

I found that last night after posting and went through and checked. I pulled all those cables, labeled them to prevent any miss assembly and connected in the same location as listed in the doc, still no communication, so I put in a ticket.

Also, the backbox monitor display only comes on in 1 of 3 powercycles, so I think something else is amiss.

The lack of power was immediately a problem when firing up. I did some adjustments right away to make sure nothing was binding. What I found in the coil test was sometimes it would fire nice, sometimes it would barely fire. When I manually operated the plunger, it sounded like the plunger was binding. I grabbed a chrome plated plunger that was similar, but a little longer and it moved freely without the binding sound. I spaced the mech down to get it positioned to a point where it worked with a slight switch adjustment. it just barely kicks it out at the +50%. This is also on the ticket I put in.

LV gets the signature, the XV gets the certificate of authenticity

Looks very uninspired layout wise

this looks like the linkage has maybe toggled over? If the linkage gets too close to parallel, the links can toggle and the forces reverse and can lock a linkage

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On the sub addition: i plugged in a 3.5 mm jack to the underside of the backbox controller in the green jack (just like a PC) there is a signal active on that channel. Its a fairly weak signal though. We have a small mixing box on our stream rig so I am able to up the gain to pipe direct audio for streaming. You might be able to use that on am external sub if your sub has a gain adjustment

I unscrewed them one screw at a time and blue loctited my gen 3s making sure to crush the star washers

New 2.4 code didn't fix our trough issues, only made it worse. Cato said from the logs it looks like a board or cable issue, so he is going to send out replacements. Really looking to get this sorted so we can get some high scores!

I think I finally got the trough issue fixed. The eject would occassionally just keep chucking balls into it without launching, so would have to shut off the game, pull the glass and remove them. I took off the coil, carefully cut back the heat shrink to expose the solder. It wasn't soldered very well. I resoldered the wire and made sure it bridged to the coil wire. Cross your fingers, but it seems to work now

We will be playing Alien tonight at 8pm eastern tonight! I think I got the shooter eject working properly after a little resoldering on the coil terminals, so cross your fingers the shooter eject glitch has gone away. twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

Yeah, the multiple balls in the shooter were waaaay worse on 2.4 and wouldn't even go one game, so I had backdated to 2.2D to make it playable. Now that I have resoldered the shooter coil it seems to be working now on some test play *knocks on wood*. it's now on 2.4.

I was surprised that the game would keep chucking balls if it doesn't see the ball launched. Seems like that should be the behavior

Interesting. Next time I have the glass off I will check the switches in test. I think the latest gen of standups aren't getting stuck, but I will check. PB also sent me new trough opto boards, the playfield board for the trough and the outlane eddy board which are replaced. I was still getting the multiballs in the shooter lane with the new boards. Cato asked me to check the shooter eject coil and when I peeled back the heat shrink, the solder work was very cold looking. I reflowed those and also made sure it connected to the coil wire. Play testing the other day seems good. We will see tonight after the game starts to get warm.

Another random item, I also checked the flipper coils after a decent game and they were pretty hot (just like my R&M was). I know my upper right flipper shows fade to the point where the hypersleep lock can't be hit after an hour or so. it's barely makeable when the machine is cool and the flippers are at +50% on strength. Sometime I need to get the thermocouples on them to see what the actual temps are. I have definitely adjusted the flippers over and over to make sure they aren't dragging and sticky.

We had a total of 3. I think the first one the ball got stuck at the top of the shooter and the game kept trying to launch a ball not in the shooter lane. Second was the multiple balls being fed into the shooter (that's the one we keep having) and the third had a game glitch when I got the Hypersleep multiball, the LEDs seemed to stop changing and stayed in rainbow colors and the ball was 'lost' in the trough, so the game lost a ball, even though they were in the trough.

per zacaj 's recommendation, I turned the upper right flipper down to 0% and was still able to hit the hypersleep. That increased setting was leftover from 2.2D, so I never changed it back. I did seem to be able to hit it all night. it's a tough shot and it did get more difficult through the night. Some flipper cooling might be in order for us as we play for hours at a time. I also did peel the plastic paper off the coil to expose the windings to ambient air. PB uses 2 wrapped layers and it's a plastic paper, so its a nice insulator. Next time its open, I am going to peel all the flipper coil wraps off.

Awesome, once your done if you can share the P/Ns I would appreciate it! that area is dark

Smashed the last game of the night in yesterday's stream: 516,643,220

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Everything was just working for me that game. If Ed hadn't had to make a rush restroom trip and I jumped back in to keep up the entertainment, we would have stopped streaming before that game. I was satisfied by an earlier 365mil game where I was close to completing all the modes and multiballs. Alien gods were smiling on me yesterday.

Both games are hightlighted on twitch if you go to the wilddogarcade twitch page

henning JDub03 The green headphone jack in the backbox computer is active! We use that for our streaming rig. Downside is its not a headphone jack, output volume is linked to the volume button.

Okay, two good games from Saturday are now uploaded to the youtoobs.

364 mil

516 mil

Last game of the night, got to All Out War.

Check the VOD at twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

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I blue loctited all of my targets when i changed fron gen 2 to gen 3 and have not had any spread

Yeah, those two screws on each target that hold the whole stack together. when I received my replacement gen 3s, they were pretty darn loose. I pulled each screw one at a time and applied loctite. Let that cure for a bit before swapping them out in the game

Playing our Alien SV tonight! 9pm EDT twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

Both posts above the lanes are adjustable. If I remember right they are slotted and were easy to adjust

I've noticed a lot of loops to the left side that the posts fire and miss, letting the ball continue on the orbit instead if dropping into the pops. Posts work just fine and don't bind, but they don't seem to have any/very little 'hold in up position' time. Most of the fast orbits seem to get caught, but a medium roller will fire and drop the post before the ball gets there allowing it to orbit to the right.

We are playing Alien tonight at 9pm ET! twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

Has anyone tried the ldvs to hdmi v20 converter board and got it to work? I have it installed and the lvds passthrough works, so the main screen boots up. I am getting no hdmi signal. I have tried all the jumper configs and no change. I hooked up the wires like in Hurry Up Pinball's tutorial. I have the same board working in Rush. I really want to get direct video out for our streams

https://geekworm.com/collections/others/products/lvds-to-hdmi-adapter-board-converter-with-lvds-cable?variant=39521988771928

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We have always been a little dissappointed that the white inserts that replaced the screen were aestetically off from the rest of the artwork when lit, so I got some gel filters (from Amazon) for lights & added them under the playfield. I used 2 layers of the gels to deepen the color. I also spaced that board away from the playfield to make room for the gels and the glue. Much improved!

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Yeah, i color coded the weapons to match the symbols to boot. Way easier on your eyes and isn't a bright section in the middle of the playfield now when lit. Can't do anything when they're off unfortunately. They are RBGs, would have been nice it they just color coded them in the programming instead of just white

The main backbox screen is LVDS. Only the airlock screen is hdmi

We're streaming Alien tonight at 9pm ET! twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

Alien streaming tonight at 7pm ET. Loaded up 3.1 and 0.71 fw to give it a whirl.

twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

Well, the special Alien Day thing is just a $426 discount, not the code drop we were all hoping for.

https://twitter.com/PinballBros/status/1651185333243895811?t=IDbkF0-dwPVAlB6LqKhCAw&s=19

At expo, they had a video with all the new scenes, we took some videos of it, but we have to put them together when we get home

Here's a vid with All Out War

No problem! Glad you enjoyed it

I have tried to get direct capture and haven't got it to work using the LVDS-hdmi boards. I would LOVE to get direct video for streaming and add an apron screen. I never remember to look up at the LCD

RIPLEY CODE! Tonight we will be debuting the New Ripley Code on Aliens!

Sun Dec 3rd at 7 pm ET!

twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

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No, its not available yet. We were provided the code to stream it!

Sure thing! We were provided a synopsis of the changes.

Do you remember the jumper settings you used on the capture board? I have been trying to direct capture the screen for a while now.

You don't happen to have a pic of the connector plugged into the computer? I hooked up everything just like that on a couple tries in the past. I wonder if my two different capture cards just didn't like something with the signal? Going to try just hooking up a spare monitor next to see if it pics up the signal

I have 3 of those, tried them all. Any monitor I have around doesn't see a signal with any of them. I tried using an HDMI splitter box too. Even switching OBS to different resolutions doesn't see anything. This baffles me

I tried all options on the jumpers. Nothing

At this point I wonder, since my game was a very early one, that if have different motherboard or a different display causing config differences. Seems odd that I cannot get this to work.

I did this mod to one of the PB Alien switches on my game with a leaf stack to give it a whirl.

I started with an unused Data East target stack I had lying around. Carefully disassembled and dremeled the targets off both.

Reriveted the clear Alien one on the data east leaf. I clipped off the microswitch from the target board.

To get the LED high enough, I carefully filed the holes to slide the LED board up. I trimmed a tiny bit off the inner leaf so it wouldn't hit the LED.

I also decided to use the stiffer back bracket because the stock flat blade gets bent back pretty quick, causing airballs and eventually the microswitch gets hit and breaks off the board. I might have to file a groove in the playfield to fit it.

I also elongated the backing bracket to raise it up so the top of the target hits the bracket to limit the travel.

Soldered the 2 wire connector on the switch.

I ended up dremeling a slot in the playfield so I could use the stiffer L-bracket. Especially on the target I took a picture of. It gets hammered and seems to work pretty good now. Its a lot more sensitive to light hits now.

PBL now has clear block standup targets, so next time I would order those to start and not have to worry about re-riveting the clear head.

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We have installed the beacon and flasher kit on our machine, so Join us for some Alien pinball tonight at 7 pm ET and check it out! twitch.tv/wilddogarcade

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Following up with my last post, our install video for the Beacon and Flasher kit is up!

We have a very, very early game, so who knows if the later ones have a longer cable. If you need a longer one, I believe you have to use a special ethernet cable called a 'patch' cable. I don't think a regular one would work. Luckily, I am a packrat with cables and I happened to have several 'patch' cables in a bin. Take a look at the labeling on your current cables and see if you have shorties like I did in the video and note what they are. I don't remember off the top of my head if they are Cat5 or Cat6 patch cables.

Lowes/homedepot might not have patch cables, that might be an Amazon purchase

Hi there. Yes, I did drill a hole to pass the wire through instead of squeezing it around the side. I just used a uni-bit of the right size