Alien (Ellen Ripley Version)
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Quoted from cleland:Speaking of beacon toppers, I've come up with a solution for my SV thanks to Lermods
They are in route back to me to install on my game.
I shipped Rob these 12 volt ones I got from Amazon and had him wire them up to be triggered by a light source.
amazon.com link »
I will tie them into an insert to trigger them. Here's the bench test!
If there is demand for these, I’m happy to produce them. Reach out to me for details.
Quoted from cleland:For those SV owners interested in adding beacons, thanks to Lermods I was able to install them over the weekend.
They basically are triggered by any insert you want, I chose Airlock which means they do go off quite a bit, but I like the effect.
Here's some attract mode video. Will try and get gameplay video posted when I can get the wife in the game room to film.
Also, here is a quick install video of what I did.
I got the beacons off Amazon, they came with a cigarette lighter connector for each one, but Rob tied them into one and adapted to the Mezel Mods power tap adapter from the bottom of the backbox controller. I have had no issues and everything has been running solid.
Amazon Link for beacons (you'll need two)
amazon.com link »
Mezel Mods link for power tap.
https://mezelmods.com/products/alien-pb-pinball-power-adapter?_pos=2&_sid=ec3c4a45b&_ss=r
Thanks for posting, nice to see that it works as intended and install was easy. If anyone wants these, please let me know and I will make them on demand as long as the beacons are available. If you have a Mezelmods power tap, great, I’ll wire it to fit that. If not, I’ll wire it to connect into the power connection under the monitor as I have the stock connectors on hand. I’m figuring $150 if you supply the beacons by having them sent directly to me or $175 if I supply the beacons plus shipping.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/alien-pinball-sv-interactive-alien-beacons
I have three sets of the SV beacons mod left. We will no longer be stocking them after they are gone.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/alien-pinball-sv-interactive-alien-beacons
Getting close to last call on SV beacons. 2 left.
https://lermods.com/shop-by-game/ols/products/alien-pinball-sv-interactive-alien-beacons
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:question, on the topic of beacons and mods.... Can someone point me in the right direction? I would like to get these or smaller ones.
Alternatively, is this mod still being made?
thanks
We still offer our version, it’s made on demand so reach out if you want a set.
https://lermods.com/products/alien-pinball-sv-interactive-alien-beacons
Quoted from Mageek:12V Beacons Plug in here and are activated as intended in the code. Left two pins ( - on top, + on bottom) of Middle connector on black box on the bottom left of cab.. [quoted image]
I just picked up an SV last night. The port you show has constant 12v so how are you getting activation of the beacons from the code? Is it for a third party mod you are referring to? That connector for those interested is a mini-fit jr. 4.2mm if I’m not mistaken.
Game is very dark if you play in a room with the lights off. I realize darkness is intended, but I’m going to use a separate power supply to light the upper half of the backbox, trough and backboard area. I’ll use a dimmer so the lighting is more subtle. It won’t be switched so I’ll just unplug the power supply when I’m done playing.
Quoted from Rager170:Yes, this is for a 3rd party mod. On the LV, that connector is for the shaker motor and beacons...
There is 12v power coming out and I did connect a few led strips. The strips were going on and off periodically in attract mode so I am thinking a beacon might work in the SV off that port. Can I ask when the beacons are supposed to go on in the LV?
The SV is so dark so I spent some time today making a few lighting enhancements. I didn’t want to have anything too bright and ruin the dark theme. The backbox was severely underlit, the top half was totally dark so I added a strip along the middle top to illuminate it. The backboard area also was way too dark so I added some blue and green accents. Finally finished with a blue trough light. To keep the brightness down, I added a dimmer and set it at about half power. I also used an external power supply as I’m still not sure about what this game can and cannot handle so the LEDs are always lit, but I think blend in pretty well. The backboard looks a little washed out in the pic, but it’s just the camera struggling to capture the detail.
Before and after pics.
2927784D-CF26-442E-B8BE-A7C2C7F0FEB8 (resized).jpeg33571B44-DE0D-49BE-A4E5-016AE0DC70E3 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Mageek:What firmware version is it? Need at least .57
Not a third party mod just 12v beacons from your favorite supplier.
Yes connector is mini-fit Jr.
I plugged a beacon into my game today and it worked. Came on periodically in attract mode and very limited during gameplay.
Quoted from beelzeboob:After loving Queen as much as I do, I'm seriously contemplating getting an Alien LV...you guys are all still loving yours?
Only had an SV a few days and it is one of the best games I’ve played, love it. For me, it’s pretty difficult, brick shots and you are dead, but it definitely is one of those games where you keep pressing the start button over and over again. My only gripe is the hypersleep ramp shot, it’s nearly impossible to hit. I probably should have bought one sooner.
Quoted from insight75:Agree with everything you said. Once you start to dial in and make the ramp shots it gets more fun. Play with the coil power for that upper right flipper a little bit. I increased mine and its easier now. This was advice I received here and it helps.
Turned it up to the maximum, 50% stronger, no luck, still very tough. 6.7% game pitch.
Quoted from Rager170:Funny, I sold my TWD for Alien and I couldnt be happier with that decision.
same here, just traded my twd premium for alien, couldn’t be happier. Both games are brutal.
Quoted from Rager170:That seems strange. I have mine at 20% which makes it a hard shot, but doable. I dont want it to be made easily but not literally impossible either.
Think I fixed the hypersleep ramp shot. I moved the flipper back a little as shown in the pic. It’s still a very tough shot, but at least now when I hit it cleanly, it makes it all the way up. Prior to making the adjustment, I think I hit it once in about thirty games. After, I’ve already hit it a few times on just a couple of games, including twice in one game. Much more satisfying/less frustrating.
IMG_0574 (resized).jpegAnyone ever have the xenomorph tongue get stuck when it grabs the ball? Happened during a game. Kept holding the ball, instead of bringing it back into its mouth. I ran the tests and it works, and seems to have resolved itself.
Quoted from Hershmeister:Yes. In my case the magnet on the end of the toungue had taken a beating and I suspect small chips had gotten into the gear mechanism. I replaced the tongue, greased it with some lithium grease and have only had the issue a few times since. Likely from a tiny sliver still lurking in the mechanism
Thx. My game is pretty new so I’d be surprised if it were the gears, but I will check it. Seemed software related. I’ll keep an eye on it.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Will do! I’ll have to dig out the specific beacons - got them on Amazon; 12V real rotating ones.
Both are wired in parallel to the 4 pin Molex connector on that black box in the cabinet.
I wired a beacon into my sv and it works perfectly with the game code. Maybe post pics of what you did. I didn’t use any sensors, just plugged directly into the middle 4 pin port in the lower cabinet.
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:Photos of the plug and where it’s plugged into. And the split going to each beacon . I triple checked the wiring is all lined up pos/neg all the way through
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wrong port. It’s the middle one. Move it over one to the right. I believe you might be plugged into the shaker port.
Quoted from Rager170:Correct. I forget which pins for that middle connector though. That middle connection is shared with the Shaker and the Beacons on the LV.. He had his plugged into the Left Side Blade connector....
Left side, top is ground, bottom is power.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I personally can't wait for the Ripley update to come out. I think that would really make the game more complete to me. I guess I am not as concerned about resale value as others are. I have had so many hobbies over the years where you loose value on stuff you buy, having pinball machines keep their value or even appreciate a little is just a bonus to me.
Now back on subject, I installed my beacons today!
I bought a 2 pack off amazon for $24. The first think I did was salvage a plug from an old computer power supply to use to provide power to my beacons. The beacons I bought came with a switch that was used to turn it on and off, and one button to change the beacon mode. I took apart one of these switches and wired the power into it.
[quoted image]
I modded my backbox to allow the beacon wires to go through two of the existing vents that are on the back of the machine. I used the grommets that came with the beacons to protect the wires as they passed through the metal vents.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I then passed the beacon wires down through the machine (leaving enough slack to put the head down) and soldered the leads to the switch assembly that came with the beacons. I figured I could wire both of them to one switch as the terminals were pretty beefy, and the wires to the beacons so small.
[quoted image]
I then used a zip tie and a zip tie adhesive anchor to secure the beacon mode switch to the inside of the cabinet near where it plugs into the cabinet power distribution box.
[quoted image]
I powered the machine up, and it works great! I played a couple of games, and the beacons run the most during the loader battle, and when you get an extra ball. In my option they could be used a lot more.
[quoted image]
I still need to screw my beacons down to the top of the cabinet. I am trying to decide how far to place them from the edge of the backbox before I put screws in it and make the beacons permanent.
I did find that the beacons are activated during the boot sequence for about 10 seconds. You can use that time to set the beacon flash mode form the switch assembly installed in the cabinet.
I would suggest adding a diode to help minimize any potential issues. You will probably be fine without out, but since youve taken the fuse out of the circuit, you might want it.
I find the beacons are active for a few modes, including queens nest and sentry, end of game and upon boot up, maybe a couple more. I only used one beacon on my game in the center, two seemed like overkill, but doesn’t match the LV.
I recently picked up an sv and have no ill feelings toward PB even though my game will be devalued somewhat. On the contrary, it’s great news all owners get a code update. I also love the game and have no intention of selling it right now. It is also fantastic news for PB. The rerelease means there is good demand for their games and we all know there needs to be a quality manufacturer to step up and be a viable alternative to Stern.
For LV owners, not sure I’d downplay this new version as it may be the most sought after if it has all these add ons at a lower price and all the fixes. If I’m choosing between an LV and a Ripley, I’d take the Ripley.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Where can you order the beacon lights?
You can get the beacons on Amazon. If any SV owners want a set wired up, plug and play, working just like the lv, just reach out.
ASPL 2pcs LED Warning Flash Beacon Lights, 60 LED Amber Warning Safety Flashing Strobe Lights with Magnetic and 16 ft Straight Cord for Vehicle Truck Tractor Golf Carts UTV Car Bus,12V-24V https://a.co/d/g5nf114
Quoted from Rager170:How do you know those would fit with the topper? It seems beacons are different in sizes?
Oh, I did t mean to imply they would be for the topper, just a separate stand alone. Don’t beacons come with the topper?
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:I don't think we know that these will fit within the new topper yet.
Dont beacons have to come with the topper? What will lv owners do if the beacons they have don’t fit the topper? I think the ones I linked to are similar to what the lv has, but you are right that we don’t know.
Quoted from Rager170:I just dont see how anyone could think the bigger ones look nicer lol.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Those are ugly. Here’s the one I linked to on my game. Perfect size and shape, lights up the room. We really just need to know the diameter of the ones on the LV.
IMG_0261 (resized).jpeg
Anyone know what exactly you get in the playfield beacon kit? If it’s just domes with some strobing, not sure how that will look, might be cool, but would have to see it. I can get some small beacons like the one I pictured, maybe half the size. Was thinking maybe just one in the back right might work. These would be too tall to put on the yutani plastic by the flippers.
Quoted from BOBCADE:Where can I get one of these if I cannot get official ones for my Ripley's?
I posted the link above. Post #15467
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Comes with 6 lights in total, 3 mini dome flashers on lower left ramp and new plastics cutout to house the domes, one for the lower right side with plastic, upper right mini beacon and plastic, mid right flasher dome and plastic plus new extension board to connect to gameplay and wiring.
If they are all going off to mimic the beacons on top, that could be pretty cool.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:I saw those a while back, really cool, but the way the PB kit seamlessly integrates the beacons into the playfield, even including new plastics, plus a controller board to work within modes in the game is awesome.
It’s not clear what that board they are including does. Right now, the port for the beacons works for the LV and the SV, it’s active in a few modes like sentry, queens nest and a couple of others I can’t recall. It might just be some sort of splitter board so they can run multiple beacons and retrofit existing beacons.
Those mini beacons that were linked to are 5v and won’t work unless you rectify the voltage. We use those same beacons for our ff fence mod, but I can easily make a set that mimics the stock beacons if someone wanted it.
Quoted from Zablon:I'm intrigued by the larger pf flashers they are using and how they plan to implement those. I think they are being a bit steep on the price, but I guess it does come with different plastics.
And to someone elses question earlier. You can never have too many beacons on this game
I have mini beacons on hand so I wanted to see if it would work and it does. It’s interactive with the game and comes on and off in sync with the top beacon.
I will offer this as a mod and will be on our alien page for those who might want it. No lists, I have about 2 dozen beacons on hand so 12 sets. Compatible with LV and SV. I will include a split connection for those with beacons already.
Quoted from driph:Heh, yeah we are pretty ridiculous.
I've got the aliexpress mini beacons that I've been planning to mount to the airlock to tie into the under-playfield led (as a ball ejecting warning), but now I'm curious to see how the PBros playfield beacons will work. If they just mirror the top beacons, I'll do my own thing, but if they are more complex/interactive, then I might be in for a set... guess we'll see once show footage makes its way out!
if you want help, let me know. Those beacons you have are 4-6v so you need to bring the game voltage, which is 12v, down.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Alien Beacon Kit now available for order https://pbusasales.com/add-ons/alien/alien-beacon-kit
[quoted image]
I think these might be the beacons being used. If anyone wants a set wired up, please let me know.
ANTOM LED Beacon Light-12-24v Amber Emergency Magnetic Flashing Warning Beacon Light-10FT Cigarette Lighter Power Cable-for forklifts, Tractors, Golf carts, UTVs, Cars, Buses, etc https://a.co/d/h89faf0
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:Well if you are little handy, you could wire up your own for about $30. It's a pretty simple install once you have all the parts.
It’s not quite that simple. For example, you can’t just get the beacons, cut the wires, tie them together and plug them in. You need to know how to pin connectors, you need to know how to wire through a switch, identify power and ground (e.g., wires in these switches can be the same color) and I’d suggest adding a diode. It certainly can be done diy and I’m all for people learning to work on their games, I’d just be a little cautious suggesting it’s simple and have someone damage their game. Also getting the parts is often half the battle. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve ordered connectors only to find out they don’t fit.
Quoted from Jerickso77:What's the best way to hook up an external sub to one of these?
I used the pinnovators pinsub product.
Quoted from Jerickso77:How does that work? I have the pinovators for my Stern but this looks way different.
It connects to the wires at the speaker with a clamp style mount. Very easy to install. It’s their universal version, works for Cgc and jjp.
Quoted from Rager170:Well, I can tell you, most people connecting subwoofers to pins are not using that, they are simply using wire connections.
If it were me, id try the basic wire connection first. If you get ground hum, then spend more money on that.... I have had my subs hooked to a few newer style machines and never had an issue. I am about to do it to Alien as well since I have an extra sub lying around that I had hooked up to TWD that I sold.
If you hook two machines up to one sub and don’t put a filter, you could have issues. I did when I tried hooking two spike games to one sub. Used the pinnovators product and never had an issue. Sharing a ground without a filter is not a good thing.
Quoted from Baggerman:queens nest + hypersleep + sentry = big scores
The hypersleep shot is very tough. I’ve had my game a few months, never got hypersleep mb. Best I’ve done is lock 2 balls.
Quoted from Baggerman:make sure you playfield angle is near 6.8 -6.9 and up the upper right flipper coil strength to +30% that should make that shot do-able! Make sure that flipper angle has the rubber even with the post... even slightly behind the post if you dont mind that.. that helps too. took forever to dial in on my machine.
I’m at 6.9 and here’s a pic of my flipper. I had the coil at +50. I just lowered it to 30 and locked 2 balls. Not yet sure if it’s coincidence or not, but it seemed smoother. Really helps with the left outline ball save to make that shot. Thx
IMG_0683 (resized).jpegQuoted from Zablon:That flipper looks way too low. Mine is even with the post and I have no issues hitting the shot, and I actually have my flipper power at -10.
I had it even and it never worked. Dropping the flipper made a big difference for my game.
Quoted from driph:Airlock beacon mod complete!
Beacons flash when the ball is in the airlock and stop once it ejects.Leaned on previous posts by Zablon and PersonX99 for the execution. Mod consists of RC beacons, 3D printed mount, and a photoresistor relay pointing at the airlock scoop LED below the playfield. I'll toss the STL of the mount online if anyone wants to use it for your own mod.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice job, mine trigger off the beacons. What is the airlock scoop light? Do you mean the air lock insert in front of the scoop? That would mean the beacons will come on any time the insert is lit, including when it’s blue. Is that correct?
Quoted from beelzeboob:How did you guys hook yours up to this game? I usually use the Pinnovators card to install them on my Sterns, but it's no bueno with PB games.
They make a universal hookup. I use it on my game.
Quoted from djsolzs:Is this worth it over just adding speaking wire?
Yes, the pinnovators product isolates the ground. This is particularly important if you hook two games to one sub. Can you just use clips and speaker wire? Yes. I just prefer to use a safer method.
Quoted from dts:Ripley code is great, nice to see her in Self Destruct and Queen's Nest, among other things.
I got to front loader for the first time and she was there with speech. Not sure if it was there before. It’s such an amazing game, so well done.
Quoted from cookpins:I had to plug the shaker into the middle open port on the board to get it to work, no other changes needed after that.
I thought it’s supposed to be the left port? Middle is for the beacons.
Quoted from Jerickso77:Fot those that use an external sub, how did you feed the wire out? Drill a hole?
Loosen the screws in the grid in the back right of the game and feed wires out.
Quoted from BOBCADE:Anyone else trying to come up with a plan to light up their RVs side art?
Also on the subject of light-while I do like the dark atmosphere, it’s just too dark in my room as I only dim the lights which has never been issue with my other games. So thinking of where to put some spotlights but not overly saturate it like stadiums. Maybe apron strips I can home make for a look too.
Here’s mine. I used an external power supply to light the backboard and trough, along with the backbox. My camera is washing out the light a bit, it’s clearer in person.
IMG_0365 (resized).jpegQuoted from dts:I wonder if it is possible to swap out the dome beacons for small rotating beacons such as these on Ebay. There are nicer ones from a German RC company but expensive.
[quoted image]
It should be. We use these types of beacons for our air lock mod. You just need to bring the voltage from the game down. You might have to create a base to seat them in the truss.
Quoted from Rager170:Question for you guys. I have been playing around with LED light strips for the 3d Translight that I have.. I bought a set that is a 24v, 3A, 65 watts for the whole 16 ft strip. I would be using about 10ft..
I have a power strip cut and connected to the power supply.
Would I have any issues running this strip? I havent played with any 24v lights in the past so just wanted to be sure, but the wattage didnt seem like an issue..
Thanks.
Not clear what you are asking. Are you asking if you can connect it to the game?
Quoted from Rager170:Yes, I assume its fine since its not running off the game itself but just wanted to be sure...
If you have an external power supply, you can do what you want. Do not connect it to the game, that’s a lot of amps you are drawing.
Quoted from mitchzizzle:For sure I would say the game deserves a trough light and two spots, on the inside turns of the return ramps. Keeps the overall 'dark' feel but everything is visible and looks awesome![quoted image]
I like the way your plastic protectors light up. Here’s my game with a blue trough light and blue and green lighting on the backboard. I use an external power supply. I also lit my translight as I have an sv, same power supply.
IMG_0385 (resized).jpegQuoted from Deadpin:My egg bumpers up top are really hard to activate, especially the lowest one of them. Is there a setting or something to improve their sensitivity?
Leaf/spoon switch. Close the gap on it
Quoted from Baggerman:Firmare 72 is out now as well.. .dont forget to update that to use 4.1.1 code.
I did firmware first then game code.
Quoted from Baggerman:during the boot sequence you can glimpse that the code shows 4.1.1 then flashes over to normal screen. I tried to grab a pic but too fast, like a quick second or less.
Yeah, I did see that.
I definitely have new code even though it doesn’t say it, bug hunt screen is fixed. Noticed a few more callouts too, or at least ones I hadn’t heard before.
Quoted from brado426:It says Starting Game Code 4.1.1, but look at the Game Rev after it starts. There's that and the fact that the features mentioned in the change log aren't there. PB responded to me saying they're looking into it.
[quoted image]
It’s normal (and I noted this in this thread when the code was released), watch your screen as your game boots and you will see it says 4.1.1. I’ve had no issues with the code otherwise.
Quoted from brado426:I do see the 4.1.1 when it boots, but I don't see at least two of the features mentioned in the change log. One being the wording change in the operator's menu and the other is the drop target reset behavior change. Those are the two reasons why I figured I was missing something in the update.
Do you have text at the start of bug hunt? I do, so I know I have the update.
Quoted from Archimedes:Hello everyone, I am looking at getting a second hand Alien SV and I’m wondering if it has more issues than a standard pin? If you own one would you recommend or would you buy it again? I have played the LV version and really enjoy the game, just wondering if I’m going to be working on it constantly or living with constant headaches. Thanks.
No issues on my sv, had it since last summer, play it a lot.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Brand new alien Ripley edition.. My buddy told me it shut off mid playing.. and now it won’t cut back on no matter what.
Besides the normal things.. Pressing on connectors etc.. anybody had this occur on theirs?
Thanks
Did he check power cord and that the outlet the game is plugged into has power?
Quoted from K9Marshal:I can’t seem to get it to update to 4.1.1
Tried it several times with no luck - anyone else having issues with this?
How do you know it didn’t update? Even though screen might say 4.0, it might have still updated. Does your screen show video updated?
Quoted from Zablon:The staged flippers means you can semi press the button and the main flippers will flip, and you fully press it and the upper flipper will flip. This is very useful on this game due to the upper right flipper placement blocking a shot to the right ramp from the bottom right flipper, but it is not a must have. I never worried about it because I'm a bit of a flailer and always fully press, regardless of the game I believe the RV has these?? (or no?)
I have an sv and have never experienced any blocked shots by the upper right flipper. I can backhand the right ramp with the right lower flipper without issue.
Quoted from Zablon:all depends on how you play. I do it all the time because i don't let go of the flipper button.
I should have clarified, from a dead stop, holding the ball on the right flipper, it’s harder. During game play when the ball is moving, it’s easier.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:I have one of the first run SV’s and although it had its problems, they were all taken care of by PB’s. My issues were more mechanical and they have sent replacement parts galore. I have the staged flipper switches and have yet to update to newest code to see if they work correctly, mine was one with the reversed upper and lower firing order. Supposedly the new code will fix this. I got value when first buying because the first SV’s were $7777 plus shipping. It was the best value premium game at the time IMO. Now the value is shit because of the new RV, but I don’t give a f$&k because I have a great game. It plays good and hopefully PB will be here for a long time if I ever need replacement parts. The extra bling wasn’t worth the extra cash for me. The stainless hardware is kick ass because I could care less for powder coat painting. Pinstadiums are not needed, the darker playfield matches the ambiance of the game. I like the SV art better than the RV art but the LE art is the best. Just making a case for the SV as I chose it. Either way it’s a great game no matter the version.
I’ve played the LV and own an SV. The main thing I’ve noticed on the LV is that the playfield is a lot brighter because of the side lighting. The SV is super dark, but you can fairly easily add accent lighting. The beacons on the LV are nice, but also can be easily added to an SV for $100. Other than that, I didn’t notice much that would cause me to want to upgrade to an LV. There’s an SV for sale in VA for $6200, best deal on pinside right now. Buy what you like and what is important to you, but I don’t think you can go wrong with any version, they all play the same.
Quoted from GCS2000:Is there a less expensive option for the beacons than what PB sells - this would need to be the ones that work with the topper. I know there are third party ones that others have used and also come with the apron mod.
And yes this would be so it can go on an SV edition.
Yes, what we offer is similar (maybe even the same) to the ones pb is using for the topper. They are off the shelf beacons that plug and play into the beacon connection in the lower cabinet. We use a lower profile beacon than what is shown in the pic on our site.
https://lermods.com/products/alien-pinball-sv-interactive-alien-beacons
Quoted from DigitalJedi084:PB Beacon kit finally arrived! [quoted image][quoted image]
I didn’t know they were using off the shelf beacons and thought maybe they had done something proprietary. We offer very similar beacons for a lot less, plug and play.
Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:Where do the top beacons plug in to?
PB's instructions leave a lot to be desired
Lower cabinet, center port in the black box.
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