Addams Family, The
Bally, 1992Quoted from PinballGalore:Gonna have to. My wife won’t put up with this for long. Since they couldn't be insured
Other than total loss for the boat ride, I didn’t bother, so I’m not rushing to unwrap them in case something did get damaged and I’d have to report.
Yes I hear ya it’s a big move for sure it’s never fun ,I have been here for 30 years so it will be a really big move when I do lol
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Rotisserie is awesome, thanks again!
It is so nice having two rotisseries, especially with one on wheels. Here’s my little playfield swapping corner of the basement:
[quoted image]
Yes it is a big help having two especially when doing PF swaps. The amount of time and aggravation is greatly reduced and you don't have parts laying around all over the case. You just take a part off the old, and put it on the new.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Started on my Strange World playfield swap today. Here are some old/new shots while I have the whole topside stripped:
If you and Ron (and Wade in absentia) don't mind me taking the liberty...
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:If you and Ron (and Wade in absentia) don't mind me taking the liberty...
https://keithbittner.com/magic-ron/
Awesome, really cool work!
Quoted from PlanetExpress:Awesome, really cool work!
Oh all I did was align the photos in photoshop and plugged them into a before/after generator. But I do love those Gottliebs - Wade and Ron together are a match made in Heaven.
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:If you and Ron (and Wade in absentia) don't mind me taking the liberty...
https://keithbittner.com/magic-ron/
This is really neat. I think ol' wade gets the credit for that one, I just made it shine.
I started prepping a stern Iron maiden premium. Usually sterns pfs are some of the best, but this one got beat with an ugly stick.
I noticed that a bunch of the drilled holes had some ghosting around them. As part of the prep on every pf, before I sand I use my handy dandy kruzman glue kit to take care of them. They will look better and wont turn in to a mess when installed. This is the way the pf came, I haven't sanded it or anything except address the issues with the holes. It seems like it was only one size that had all of the problems I think it was the 1/8 inch.
I cant tell if the scratch or crack at the bottom is a scratch or crack. I will test by putting some of my thinned out glue on it. Then I should be able to tell of it hit wood, by it turning darker or just the fact that the wood wicks it in. Its prob a weird scratch.
20231026_171830 (resized).jpg20231026_171909 (resized).jpg20231026_175047 (resized).jpg20231026_175053 (resized).jpg20231026_175222 (resized).jpg20231026_175324 (resized).jpg20231026_175340 (resized).jpg20231026_175931 (resized).jpg20231026_175936 (resized).jpg20231026_175942 (resized).jpg20231026_180016 (resized).jpg20231026_180047 (resized).jpgHere is a good example of some lifting repaired, and some yucky work in a ramp lip depression, which is of course another great excuse for me to use my handy dandy kruzman pf install kit.
So watch for the after pics around valentines day I am guessing?
20231026_180346 (resized).jpg20231026_180419 (resized).jpg20231026_180448 (resized).jpgI was anticipating running into an issue with pop bumper fitment, based on what Playdium reported here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-strange-world#post-7193589
I checked the ring rods, and found they would bind when the under playfield bracket was tightened. Lining up the mounting holes, you can see the ring rod holes do not align:
IMG_1807 (resized).jpeg
To confirm the problem, I used two drills the exact size of the holes in the playfield and bracket:IMG_1808 (resized).jpeg
Just to double check myself, I did the same on the original playfield and confirmed all the mounting holes aligned:
IMG_1809 (resized).jpeg
Playdium solved this by expanding the ring rod holes, but I wanted to avoid that, due to Ron’s clear. Instead I used 2 part epoxy to fill the mounting holes for the bracket, then used the drill bits to align the bracket and re-drilled the mounting holes.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:I was anticipating running into an issue with pop bumper fitment, based on what Playdium reported here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gottlieb-strange-world#post-7193589
I checked the ring rods, and found they would bind when the under playfield bracket was tightened. Lining up the mounting holes, you can see the ring rod holes do not align:
[quoted image]
To confirm the problem, I used two drills the exact size of the holes in the playfield and bracket:[quoted image]
Just to double check myself, I did the same on the original playfield and confirmed all the mounting holes aligned:
[quoted image]
Playdium solved this by expanding the ring rod holes, but I wanted to avoid that, due to Ron’s clear. Instead I used 2 part epoxy to fill the mounting holes for the bracket, then used the drill bits to align the bracket and re-drilled the mounting holes.
I was thinking the same thing as I was reading it. If it doesnt really show on the top side, I love using JB weld when holes are all janked up. rather that using tooth picks, or in this case you would have had to drill with half of a hole in the way, its best to fill with jb weld. Most folks dont know this, but if you mask off your area on the top side, jb weld wet sands beautifuly with 400 grit and h20
When I mask small holes I use a sheet of frisket, which is very similar to my removable mylar. I make a hole just big enough and then mask it off with a big clear sheet that is only 2 or 3 mills. then, I fill and wet sand. That stuff handles drill and thread pretty darn good. if you epoxy works please share. I want to repair a bash in the side edge of a pf, and I would like to build up the corner with epoxy that I can sand, but I want clear... that sands. let me know if you know the best product.
also I could only get 7 bottles butI will be getting more glue for the install kits this week.
Do all of the pop bumpers have this issue?
Quoted from kruzman:I was thinking the same thing as I was reading it. If it doesnt really show on the top side, I love using JB weld when holes are all janked up. rather that using tooth picks, or in this case you would have had to drill with half of a hole in the way, its best to fill with jb weld. Most folks dont know this, but if you mask off your area on the top side, jb weld wet sands beautifuly with 400 grit and h20
When I mask small holes I use a sheet of frisket, which is very similar to my removable mylar. I make a hole just big enough and then mask it off with a big clear sheet that is only 2 or 3 mills. then, I fill and wet sand. That stuff handles drill and thread pretty darn good. if you epoxy works please share. I want to repair a bash in the side edge of a pf, and I would like to build up the corner with epoxy that I can sand, but I want clear... that sands. let me know if you know the best product.
also I could only get 7 bottles butI will be getting more glue for the install kits this week.
Do all of the pop bumpers have this issue?
Epoxy worked fine (I used the gray “sets in 6 min” JB Weld, but would have used the putty if I had it). Since it’s under the playfield and under the pop bumper base plate, nobody will ever know it happened. The epoxy kept my drill from wandering into the mis-drilled holes and gave me a good material to thread into for the three screws (no need to fill the holes where the coil tower attaches, as those are threaded and the hole is just in case the screws are too long).
Each pop bumper was misaligned exactly the same. I did check my plates and confirmed all three were identical. Everything else on the playfield has been drilled 100% perfect, so Wade must just have had an issue with the template for the pops. The ring rod holes are perfectly placed, and the other holes align with the base plate, it’s just that the base plate holes are ~1\32” out of alignment with the ring rod holes.
I don’t know of an epoxy glue that is actually clear, mine always seem to have a little cloudiness or a little amber tint. My wife has pourable epoxy resin (like they use for the trendy live edge tables), that stuff is totally transparent. I wonder if that would work in your scenario?
All the hard stuff is done on the harness, I just have a dozen or so bulbs left to solder to the neutral and I’ll be ready to move to the scary stuff on the top side of the playfield. I’ve got my Kruzman install kit and portable drill dress ready!
IMG_1810 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1811 (resized).jpeg
BTW, if anyone wants a cool light for doing playfield swaps, the one I’m using is $15 and it works great. It has a clamp that opens to 3” and is threaded, so it holds firmly. I like that the lamp and arm are just lightweight plastic, so if I forget to move it when I rotate the playfield I don’t have to worry about it scratching anything. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8L13YQ2
You made short time of that underside population.
Looks great. It may only be me, or I have dirty hands, but I like that gloss on the back, because with the primer, every finger print shows.
The paint back there is not perfect by any means, but I am still glad for the gloss.
Quoted from PlanetExpress:BTW, if anyone wants a cool light for doing playfield swaps, the one I’m using is $15 and it works great. It has a clamp that opens to 3” and is threaded, so it holds firmly. I like that the lamp and arm are just lightweight plastic, so if I forget to move it when I rotate the playfield I don’t have to worry about it scratching anything. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B8L13YQ2
Thank you. I just put one in my cart.
Quoted from cottonm4:Thank you. I just put one in my cart.
Yes great light
Quoted from kruzman:I just ordered one also. for 14 bucks, if it breaks I am not going to feel sad.
Hi Ron which size did u get for 14 bucks
I bought the one from Ben's link.
do they make a bigger one, because if I like it I am going to buy 2 more. If your glasses got ruiend by splashing clear on them, and you are trying to get away with dime store readers, because its 850 to replace the glasses I had, the more light, the better I can see!
I have been painting second coat on solar city today, and I saw the bottle of UV white paint that I have for painting the stars and comets on the lower pf for Black hole.
So if anyone wants to restore one of the best games made, I can make the bottom have UV light, and then you add a uv bulb down there and it glows and really looks cool. its subtle and neat. Not shove it down your neck hole.
Just an idea.
Also if anyone has got the mylar from me and found a good use for it besides the stuff mentioned or obvious, please share.
Ron, you talk about some of the items you sell. Where can I see your wares?
I have some veneer separating on left side of back box of this TX-Sector I just had shipped in. I need to anchor it down with some superglue. But I need a way to slide in under the veneer without making a mess. And I am thinking I may have to lay the entire machine on its side so I can apply some thin bodied superglue without it dripping down the side of the back box wall.
You talk about using some small needles. I wanna see.
Quoted from kruzman:I bought the one from Ben's link.
do they make a bigger one, because if I like it I am going to buy 2 more. If your glasses got ruiend by splashing clear on them, and you are trying to get away with dime store readers, because its 850 to replace the glasses I had, the more light, the better I can see!
Ok great Ron thanks
The kruzman pf install kit comes with a glue kit also. Its an ounce of super glue that is thinned out thinner than water, and 6 Hypodermics with 3 diffrerent size needles. 22ga 25ga and a blunt 1.5 inch needle that is about 20ga (Higher the ga the thinner the needle)
As much as I would like to sell you a kit, they keep the heat/lights on in my shop, I dont think its the best use for this application. When I had to fix delamination like that. I used the needles from the install kit, with wood glue, and then I clamped it down. I dont have a lot of experience with super glue on bonding wood together. It says ca glue is good for wood.
ALTHOUGH, if you use wood glue you have to use gravity, and let it sit clamped for overnight. If you use super glue, then you can do a section at a time and it will stay in place in 10 secs, then move farther down the crack.
I have a thick super glue in the shop that would be best for your situation. I forgot the name of it, but what I like about it is it is colored black and it is thick, which would work good for your situation. With the thicker glue you use plastic nozels that fit on top of the bottle, or you can suck it up in to a pipette, and squirt in there. If there are places where you need to get in there because there is a bubble, I suggest a utility knife, cut with the grain, and then the glue will hold the 2 sliced pieces together.
There is a hobby shop in kalamazoo, that specializes in RC cars and boats, planes ect. they have a great selection of super glue and tips of different size to put on the bottle. I have seen them 2 or 3 inch long, so you cant get in there all of the way.
So as much as I would like to sell you a kit, and I believe you should have one in your tool box, you would be best off buying thick CA glue, with either pipettes to get it in and under the wood, or the specialized nozels that they make for using on top of the bottle. I would suggest a 2 oz bottle of thick, and if you can find the black stuff, even better.
Quoted from kruzman:The kruzman pf install kit comes with a glue kit also. Its an ounce of super glue that is thinned out thinner than water, and 6 Hypodermics with 3 diffrerent size needles. 22ga 25ga and a blunt 1.5 inch needle that is about 20ga (Higher the ga the thinner the needle)
As much as I would like to sell you a kit, they keep the heat/lights on in my shop, I dont think its the best use for this application. When I had to fix delamination like that. I used the needles from the install kit, with wood glue, and then I clamped it down. I dont have a lot of experience with super glue on bonding wood together. It says ca glue is good for wood.
ALTHOUGH, if you use wood glue you have to use gravity, and let it sit clamped for overnight. If you use super glue, then you can do a section at a time and it will stay in place in 10 secs, then move farther down the crack.
I have a thick super glue in the shop that would be best for your situation. I forgot the name of it, but what I like about it is it is colored black and it is thick, which would work good for your situation. With the thicker glue you use plastic nozels that fit on top of the bottle, or you can suck it up in to a pipette, and squirt in there. If there are places where you need to get in there because there is a bubble, I suggest a utility knife, cut with the grain, and then the glue will hold the 2 sliced pieces together.
There is a hobby shop in kalamazoo, that specializes in RC cars and boats, planes ect. they have a great selection of super glue and tips of different size to put on the bottle. I have seen them 2 or 3 inch long, so you cant get in there all of the way.
So as much as I would like to sell you a kit, and I believe you should have one in your tool box, you would be best off buying thick CA glue, with either pipettes to get it in and under the wood, or the specialized nozels that they make for using on top of the bottle. I would suggest a 2 oz bottle of thick, and if you can find the black stuff, even better.
Thank you. This is sort of a back burner project I will get to as time allows. We have a well equipped hobby shop so I will see what options there are for needles. If I were to lay this pin flat so the repair area was on horizontal surface then thin CA is the way to go. I don't want to lay the pin on its side so I have to think on this.
CA, or superglue can glue wood together. It can glue two flat pieces together. What is cannot do is glue wood together on the ends. Example: You could take two eight foot long 2 x 4s and CA the two boards together and have an eight foot long 4 x 4. What you cannot do is CA two 2 x 4s together to make one 16 ft. long 2 x 4.
I took some heat for using CA for some cabinet repairs. So, I made a demo pic. I glued 2 boards together, mounted a 5 gallon bucket and poured in 5 gallons of water.
Water weighs 8.3 lbs per gallon. This glue job is holding 40 pounds of water.
I have a link on using superglue to fix a cabinet that had severe planking on both cabinet sideboards. It took 16 oz. of CA but the sideboards were locked down solid.
I hope this is not hijacking your thread, but here is the link with what CA can do with regards to cabinet repair.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-a-planked-cabinet-for-restoration-painting-
A helpful tip I stumbled onto is that superglue will not stick to the chrome on a wrench. So if I need to hold something down tight while the glue is setting up, a chrome combination wrench is my go-to tool. Once I figure out the best way to apply the glue to the side of my back box I will hold the bubbled wood in place with a wrench until the glue sets up.
Warning: Even with laying down large qualities of superglue in an open air situation the fumes will knock you back. Never do what I did inside a closed space.
Your kit may be just what I need. What do you think?
Quoted from kruzman:another reason why painting takes me so long
[quoted image]
IMO, color matching is what separates the men from the boys. The good work from the trash. When matching paint, close does not count.
Do you use the Pantone book?
Quoted from cottonm4:IMO, color matching is what separates the men from the boys. The good work from the trash. When matching paint, close does not count.
Do you use the Pantone book?
Hi have a pantone fan pack/book, (they cost alot) and I havent looked at it in a long time, I have a book I have compiled over 15 years with all of the formulas for maybe 60 games?
I mix my shades with the colors I have rather than using primaries and then moving them one way or another. thats why I will put down colors that are obviously not the color I need because I may want to add it to mine to go tward that color. I really like liquitex paints, but I use every brand to expolore different shades and cover/sheen.
My best lesson in mixing colors was to look at the 8 colors used on a pf, and then use those for my mixers. If I use the same shade orange and the same shade green, I almost always end up with the correct brown they used (fish tales).
I have a hostess shelf unit and the shelves lean back so I cant get a good pic of how many bottles of paint I have. I would guess 700. Plus I have about 100 bottles I have made my slef that are common wpc colors. Though now that I dont do mucgh restore, they are all getting spoiled.
Quoted from cottonm4:8 colors? Is this a standard number for the number of paint colors on a play field? If not , where does the 8 come from?
some pfs are 8 screens some are more like 12. just the amount of colors used on a pf. Then they make many more shades and colors, and darkness, by screening one on top of the other.
Quoted from cottonm4:IMO, color matching is what separates the men from the boys.
And the men from their wives.
If you're color matching - get a woman to help with the color matching. I don't know or pretend to understand the science behind it, but apparently a lot of studies have shown that women are better at detecting small differences between color shades.
I've only done playfield touchups once, and there's no way I could have done it as well as I did without my wife's help. A graphic designer wife with a Pantone book and the ability to mix Createx paints is a godsend.
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:And the men from their wives.
If you're color matching - get a woman to help with the color matching. I don't know or pretend to understand the science behind it, but apparently a lot of studies have shown that women are better at detecting small differences between color shades.
I've only done playfield touchups once, and there's no way I could have done it as well as I did without my wife's help. A graphic designer wife with a Panton e book and the ability to mix Createx paints is a godsend.
As much as a joke it is, it's also.. true. 
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:And the men from their wives.
If you're color matching - get a woman to help with the color matching. I don't know or pretend to understand the science behind it, but apparently a lot of studies have shown that women are better at detecting small differences between color shades.
I've only done playfield touchups once, and there's no way I could have done it as well as I did without my wife's help. A graphic designer wife with a Pantone book and the ability to mix Createx paints is a godsend.
does she have a sister that is single?
Yellows are a bitch because most of the opaque paints have a white base rather than a deep base. meaning they are made by tinting white rather than clear. The stuff made with the clear base, dosent cover. most of the time I will use a lighter yellow with the white base and add some darker translucent yellow, to match the color and texture. Thats another hard thing about colors made from screening one on top of the other. It makes a texture that os so hard to reproduce with paints.
when you look at those colors you see the one that is obviously the match... but its not, because the pf color is going to be different when it has clear on it. so you need to match the color it will look when the clear darkens and deepens it.
20231031_133215 (resized).jpgQuoted from kruzman:Yellows are a bitch because most of the opaque paints have a white base rather than a deep base. meaning they are made by tinting white rather than clear. The stuff made with the clear base, dosent cover. most of the time I will use a lighter yellow with the white base and add some darker translucent yellow, to match the color and texture. Thats another hard thing about colors made from screening one on top of the other. It makes a texture that os so hard to reproduce with paints.
when you look at those colors you see the one that is obviously the match... but its not, because the pf color is going to be different when it has clear on it. so you need to match the color it will look when the clear darkens and deepens it.
[quoted image]
how many hours to match that yellow? I see at least an hour-2 hours worth of work there. Do you keep a "recipe" log of how many drops of such-n-such you put in the primary color to get the correct shade?
How many of the different shades of black have you had to match?
I have 12 blacks so what I did was, I put a 1 inch sample on a 1x4 and numbered them all, and cleared it. so its easier for me to be able to pic 2 blacks, and one will be the right one.
I do have a recipe book, of colors for games.
I matched that yellow for a circle around an insert and a triangle that is smaller that 1 sq inch. So A total of 2 square inch was painted for about 2 hours of matching. and of course had to double coat it
Much harder than the yellow was I had to match the white for a NOS 007. The original color is thin enough that you can get some color from the wood coming thru, plus lots of gray planking cracks. Plus the original lacquer is sanded off in some areas, and not in others, making the white brighter in some areas and not in others. Its just cant be matched, so I did my best they lightened it up a bit. I will just have to paint the area around it that I had hoped I could get away with not painting. The clock area especially.
20231101_152353 (resized).jpg20231101_152359 (resized).jpg20231101_152442 (resized).jpg20231101_152448 (resized).jpg20231101_152458 (resized).jpg20231101_152535(0) (resized).jpg20231101_152555 (resized).jpg20231101_152611 (resized).jpg20231101_152618 (resized).jpgI finished blocking this EATPM. It looks perfect. Now if I can polish it without a mistake, I should be able to finish it the next day.
20231103_183434 (resized).jpg20231103_183450 (resized).jpg20231103_183506 (resized).jpgI decided to paint the back off-white background on the 007.
I matched the color, and threw a coat down with a brush. I knew it would take 2 coats, but when I laid down the 2nd coat, I could tell that 3 coats was not going to be enough to cover well, so I got out my airbrush that I havent used in 9 or 10 years. Of course the nice one wasnt cleaned properly and didnt want to work, so I broke out the plastic 5 dollar version. Its one step up to using a straw to blow thru your mouth caveman style. Its a much more course spray but it background. I just need it to cover.
Since I dont restore any more, I didnt realize that most of my paints are pretty chunky now from sitting. With a brush, its a quick easy task to flick the boogers out of the paint when its on the board, but when airbrushing, the boogys have to make it thru several very small holes. Luck the elcheepo air brush is made with that in mind I think.
Anyway I am going to have to start replacing my paints, or at least the common ones. If you have had a chance to make it to my shop, you would know I have way over 500 bottles of paints.
So the background came out great on 007. there is 1 spot that didnt get masked perfect and I will have to do some black paint around, but I havent even got to black yet.
Unfortunately, I have to set it aside and concentrate on finishing a couple clearcoats to I can make the rent at the end of the month.
I got the El dorado all painted, and I just need to lay a coat of clear on it to proof my work.
Resto projects go very slow here. I did paint all week last week, and now I have to get back to making money.
20231106_145230 (resized).jpgHere is a beautiful EATPM, that came out awesome.
20231107_131744 (resized).jpg20231107_131752 (resized).jpg20231107_131757 (resized).jpg20231107_131803 (resized).jpg20231107_131808 (resized).jpg20231107_131826 (resized).jpg20231107_131840 (resized).jpg20231107_131852 (resized).jpg20231107_131859 (resized).jpg20231107_131917 (resized).jpg20231107_131930 (resized).jpgQuoted from kruzman:Here is a beautiful EATPM, that came out awesome.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Bitchin'.
What is the final grit of sandpaper you use before you starting buffing?
Do you buff with a wool pad or a foam pad?
Quoted from kruzman:Here is a beautiful EATPM, that came out awesome.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Has anyone or you done a Elvira is chilly version?
Thats a good idea dave. I have done nude creech and genie (topless) and I put some nuggs on fathom. Gotta make it subtle.
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