(Topic ID: 243533)

KRUZMAN monthly playfield thread

By kruzman

4 years ago


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  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by kruzman
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“If you are going to do a pf swap on a game, which option best describes your opinion between a NOS and a repro pf”

  • Only want an nos pf even if the total cost is going to be more 41 votes
    53%
  • reproduction pf 8 votes
    10%
  • which ever is going to be cheaper 29 votes
    37%

(78 votes)

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#1701 2 years ago

More progress on shadow. About halfway on moving the harness.

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#1702 2 years ago

he has you believing he is deaf.....hmm

#1703 2 years ago
Quoted from Paulb:

he has you believing he is deaf.....hmm

I didnt even think about that angle. Out smarted bya kat again!

#1704 2 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

More progress on shadow. About halfway on moving the harness.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice and clean! the harness and all of the hardware are cleaned and new. that makes a huge difference when its done. It can look new, or only repaired, if all of the hardware is dirty

#1705 2 years ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

More progress on shadow. About halfway on moving the harness.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I blew up the pics to see the details. great work, looks awesome!

#1706 2 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

I blew up the pics to see the details. great work, looks awesome!

Thanks Ron! I’ll be sure to post more progress pics as we go along.

#1707 2 years ago

Someone sent in a IPB addams family PF to clear and tweak out. The first thing I noticed is it looked like it was missing a lot of holes. I compared it to the nos here and obviously the pop bumpers were not drilled, nor the side rails. There was only a couple dimples missing but lots of the holes that are 1/8 and one size smaller. I added a total of 46 holes and dimples

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#1708 2 years ago

This is the NOS FT I have been working on forever. finally done, and I took pics right before I wrapped it up. It got drilled and dimpled. All of the inserts were painted and the 2 inserts of the big ugly fish on each side got painted white and yellow, because the stock art, you can see thru as well as the cracks going thru the lighter color look bad. Also I always paint the spear, the eskimo has in his hand. Originally its left for wood, they dont use a color on it and most of the time, I dont like the way it looks.

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#1709 2 years ago

Here is a before pic of that monster fish (thats what I call it)

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#1710 2 years ago

Dang Ron you've outdone yourself on this one, it's been well worth the wait and I can't wait to see it up close in person as this is my first PF from you. Will be sure to post the pics when I get a chance to install it!

#1711 2 years ago

Often on NOS pfs like the FT you see odd little lines that look like mistakes. what they are is guides for the mylar install at the factory. If I am painting the area, I cover them, like the Indy 500 I am doing.
Todays high is suppose to be 25 and I am having a heck of a time keeping my spray room over 70 at this temp. its suppose to be like this all week. I allready went thru and DA sanded all of the pfs, which takes 20 min each on ave, so I have to do all of the hand sanding on all of them. I am going to watch for the ave time it takes. There is 5 times more holes on, say a JJ hobbit compared to a stargazer. somtimes it takes 45 min to hand sand all of the holes, and I do it between each set of 2 coats. I would pay someone pretty well to hand sand for me!

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#1712 2 years ago

so this is a big chunk of what you are paying for when you have me do a pf. This is a nos DR WHO, and its a linc smith pf that had the thinnest clear you can imagine. I am guessing it was going to be shipped to sun to get diaMOND coat or plate (whatever they called it) so all of the inserts could be felt. You can see there are cracks around all of them. the arrows and triangles were lifted at one end or another which is very common on all nos pfs. The hot dog insert at the bottom is very lifted. I tried horquing it down with a plank and a screw clamp and it doesnt want to move, which means the glue is doing its job, so I will; have to bury it in clear.
Now days I take out all of the t nuts, because if they get clear in the threads, and it sits for a year or 2, many times that clear wont pop out, so the t nut has to be removed and replaced, and I dont want that to have to be done on my clear, so its better just to reinstall when doing the installation. I remove the clear with the install kit dremmil between coats, so there is just a thin coat in there.
Its so important to sand in that crack around the inserts. I have found thru the years that is the clear will fail any where, it likes that place the most.

There were too many t nuts on the mini pf, and the thin wood that connects the 2 pfs together was not very strong at all. so rather than the buffer separating them in a not so gentle manor , I cut it out properly. This was over 2 hours of hand sanding and dremmiling (not including the mini that I havent done yet. I have to find out how much I sanded off that insert at the top left side. Hopefully its just the remainder of that one letter. I have to find some pics. I was being super careful and still sanded that off!

so when you have a body shop or friend spray your pf for you, you are getting what you pay for. Its a lot easier after the first time, but I have to do this at least 4 more times.

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#1713 2 years ago

Ron- Thanks for your experienced work on this NOS playfield. Very glad I didn't just slap it on my game! Do I need to send the decals back for that "T" in TRANSMAT or are you going to paint it? I am sure it will be perfect when you are done. I am so excited it is getting done right! A Pin rotisserie is in the mail, along with new Cliffy's to protect your hard work. It will a great summer project.

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#1714 2 years ago

FedEx dropped off my LOTR cleared by Ron (pics posted by Ron a few posts back) today... I have never seen Ron's work in person before today-only knew of him by reputation and photos.

The thing is so beautiful it will blind you... I can actually see my face reflecting in the clear. Pics cannot possibly do justice to his work. kruzman is an artist...

#1715 2 years ago
Quoted from BallLocks:

FedEx dropped off my LOTR cleared by Ron (pics posted by Ron a few posts back) today... I have never seen Ron's work in person before today-only knew of him by reputation and photos.
The thing is so beautiful it will blind you... I can actually see my face reflecting in the clear. Pics cannot possibly do justice to his work. kruzman is an artist...

Once your cherry is broken, you’ll never want to have one done without!

#1716 2 years ago

Top side coming along nicely on The Shadow. Posts and plastics done. Wait until you see the ramps and battlefield…

Black flipper bat idea stolen from HEP.

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#1717 2 years ago

That shadow is looking fantastic, thank you for the update pics.
Here is a little knowledge I will drop on ya all. Its pretty common for people who do it for a living, but most people dont know.

When you remove tape from a surface, you want to pull it back on its self. Rather than pulling it up at a 90 deg or less angle, bring it back and pull on it. That way it is not lifting. I say this if you are using tape to paint a straight line (in that case I pull back as well as away from the new paint) but also for tape and mylar. if you pull it back on its self, the energy is on the tape, not the surface.
No charge. your are welcome!

#1718 2 years ago

The black flippers look right.

#1719 2 years ago

Its been way too cold to spray. last week I only sprayed 6 pfs, but I have been focusing on prep.
The clear is so thin on the wade krauss pfs that I just hand sand them now rather than hit them with the da sander and take out black paint. Black is the last color applied, so it is the highest, and gets sanded first.

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#1720 2 years ago

I dont think I have ever done a beatles before. this one came out perfect. Plus stern did a good job on the print. Its very tight, looks like digital print.
Maybe you are the one person out there that didnt know they borrowed this pf from sea witch. smart idea for a good designed pf. One less expense I guess. Some designs are so good that I dont mind one bit. Gottlieb did it for decades.
The temp is suppose to be high enough to spray all week!!!

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#1721 2 years ago

It’s gotta be killing you not making progress. I get the feeling you’re a worker bee.

#1722 2 years ago

Can’t wait till we get to see the details of the trees in the reflection of the clear!!!

#1723 2 years ago
Quoted from underlord:

It’s gotta be killing you not making progress. I get the feeling you’re a worker bee.

definitely. I get depressed if I am not working, or being productive. I love to read, but its so hard for me to justify the time to read for pleasure like fiction. Often I will read psychology, self help, spiritual books, so I dont feel guilty since I am working on being better.

Here is a cpr TAF. its a silver from when they first screened them, and more than half of the inserts either show the wood, or have an issue with the key lines, so I have the time in the winter to go thru and make this stuff disappear.

I do have some new pfs in stock:
ElDorado. by wade of course (beauty)
Sing Along " "

Flash Gordon
Wizard with plastics Both are cpr. I have 2 NOS wizards, and neither are dimpled so I bought this to get the dimple pattern. Now I just have to find some plexi that cost less than the pf!!!

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#1724 2 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

definitely. I get depressed if I am not working, or being productive. I love to read, but its so hard for me to justify the time to read for pleasure like fiction. Often I will read psychology, self help, spiritual books, so I dont feel guilty since I am working on being better.

Interesting I am the same way. I have lots of hobbies (pinball, reef aquariums, jazz piano, etc) because I have to constantly be doing something.

#1725 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Interesting I am the same way. I have lots of hobbies (pinball, reef aquariums, jazz piano, etc) because I have to constantly be doing something.

I know it would be different if I wasn's such a selfish bastard for 40 years, and had a family, and less ex wives. No one told me that went you are in your 50's the only other single people are the other selfish assholes. Duh!

#1726 2 years ago

Yesterday I was organizing tax stuff and ran across an old notebook, figured no use wasting the couple left over blank pages. Inside was a pf inventory from 10/14. heres what I had of NOS and repro in stock at the time:

xenon nos
xenon cpr
AFM repro
F2k repro
8 ball nos
centaur repro
Rocky nos yep!
shadow
breakshot
charlies angels ss nos
De simpsons
strikes and spares nos
game show
Hot doggin nos
tommy
airborne
space station
world champ repro
team one
fire nos
Jackbot
taxi cpr
woz
sttng nos
evil Kenival nos
wild fyre
SW episode 1
dragon EM
contact
pinbot
preview
liberty belle
corvette
car hop
junk yard
Lights camera action
Golden eye
simpsons pin party
tron pro
acdc
csi
T3
twister
JP lost world
metallica pro
IJ4
piraqtes of the carrebean
ripleys
lotr
elvis
rollercoaster tycoon
spiderman
wheel of fortune
star trek pro.

Wowza

11
#1727 2 years ago

I noticed Ron didn't have any of his Clear Kit instructions in a format but he has explained it here. I took some of the information and put it in a Word document for Ron. Here's the instructions as of today, February 2022 and may be subject to change if he has price changes, etc.

The install and glue kit are $95. It comes with 12 Dremel bits, a cleaning stone, and a stainless tool template that measures drill and Dremel bits. (And good for drawing your circles.) It comes with 7 hypos/needles and 1 oz of the glue.

There are no directions with the bits. I picked the bits that would work with the most common applications from a thousand bits! Think of them as like a chisel where you pick the shape and size for the task. Make sure you can do it first and most important is removing the clear in the countersunk area for the screw nails that hold the pop bumpers. Of course, different playfield makers have made different holes. So, I include a couple different bits that will do the same thing. I include a couple that are thin for star roll overs or say there is a burr in a roll over switch slit. I include flat bits for removing all the clear out of the t nut holes so you are not going thru clear. I also include one for lips like the trap doors or the swamp of Creech where it is just a lip that you want clean and flat.

I just found an application lately where you use the flat ones for where the center ball shooter assemblies on f14. There is a guy on Pinside doing a f14 restore that is amazing, but I did the pf as well as the install kit, and the clear was too thick or not level one of the two where this assembly sits on the playfield. So, he drew it in with pencil and then ground down the clear.

When I am doing a playfield, here is what I do for everything that gets screwed to the top.
• Measure the screw or post.
• Don't make the hole too large so the post sits down in it rather than making its own threads.
• Pick the Dremel bit that best fits the application. I sometimes draw the hole to remove the clear. After removing the clear down to the wood, I predrill with a drill bit (buy a good set of new drill bits! Don't be cheap! I like Lennox and Bosch) that is 1 size smaller than the screw.
• Finish the predrill and take the hypo full of glue.
• Put the eye of the needle on the inside top lip of the hole in the clear. I use the diamond bits and I drip a little glue down the inside. It gets to the wood and then the wood quickly wicks it around the hole in the clear. If it doesn't go all the way around your hole, put the needle eye on the opposite side and run a little glue down that side. This locks down the clear since you made a new edge by Dremeling out a hole.
• Then go on to install the screw or post.

There is a block to clean your Dremel bits. Always use slow speed on the Dremel!!! If you spill glue, wipe it up immediately! If it is just little drops, use your finger. The glue is solvent to acetone if you need a real clean up. There is also a tool to measure drill bits and screws and template to draw circles.
After a while you will get the hang of what you need to do to accomplish what you have to.
The whole key is so you don't drill and screw up or lift, crack or chip the clear. If you don’t, it will often lift the clear around the drill bit or screw.

#1728 2 years ago

That really helps dave, thank you. well done!

#1729 2 years ago

This weekend I was surprised with a gift of a couple BIG pieces of plexi to make some drill and dimple templates. So a big grateful thank you to mr dayhuff of B.C. for the donation. I have tried to use the thin stuff, and it will break while I am making the pattern. The 5/16 has been impossible to find.

#1730 2 years ago

right now i have 2 IPB TAF pfs and 1 IPB version. Both have a bunch of little things that have to be touched up. the IPB is much more work, because you can see places where they cut with an exacto and pasted on lines and parts. Besides the usual insert issues, there are lots of white lines in the center of black lines from where something was cut and pasted old school, by hand. The greed inserts are a good example.

first here is some CPR

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#1731 2 years ago

Here is the IPB. this has plenty o paint work, plus I dont think I got a pic but it just has an empty purple box where the upc was suppose to go. The cpr has the same box, but they put addams fam graphics in it. it should have been deleted

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#1732 2 years ago

Here we have a pf and a game I love, CYCLONE. This is one of the original cpr repros. From what I remember that kev told me , they got a new insert vendor, and they didnt know they had to sand the edges of the inserts, so later they popped out. Its just the clear ovals I believe. They are the only inserts that popped up on this. I own one and they popped up, but they took the art outside the yellow key lines on mine. Then I hit it with the compressor and it started messing up the clear. I still have the poor thing its a mess.
So this one, I just epoxied the inserts from behind, and I hand sanded around the inserts. I am just going to paint the black and yellow, and it should look good.

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#1733 2 years ago

So, this is on a sing along repro, and I heard a sound I knew when I was moving it and sure as heck it was what I suspected. Little gorilla wood glue and a clamp will fix it before it gets worse.

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#1734 2 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Here is the IPB. this has plenty o paint work, plus I dont think I got a pic but it just has an empty purple box where the upc was suppose to go. The cpr has the same box, but they put addams fam graphics in it. it should have been deleted
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I am not going to do anything about the wood grain showing thru in the area of "the power" just because painting that whole area of 3 colors of which 2 that dont cover. It will just have to be as is.

#1735 2 years ago

So here are a couple p[ics of a ww LE that I finished this fall, and then the last 3 pics are an LE I just bought. it looks like all of the holes and inserts are the same, but the shooter lane art is very diff as well as the colors!

does anyone know anything about this?
Any info would be helpful. I am trying to collect JJ and stern LE pfs, and i was told it was a LE. Did they change the art? that seems like an added expense.

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#1736 2 years ago

Now I see the pic of gene Wilder in the center is completely different. does anyone have an LE that can confirm, the last 3 pics are an LE?

#1737 2 years ago

The playfield you cleared with the sprakles is a CE playfield. and the one in the last picture is an SE/LE playfield.

#1738 2 years ago

So I went to the IPDB and I see JJ uses the terms standard, LE and CE. I must have a LE which is what the seller advertised, but now I know I have to look for CE when it comes to JJ. Oh well not exactly what I wanted but its pretty cool.

#1739 2 years ago
Quoted from La4s:

The playfield you cleared with the sprakles is a CE playfield. and the one in the last picture is an SE/LE playfield.

Thank you, are the standard and LE pfs the same?

#1740 2 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Thank you, are the standard and LE pfs the same?

I believe they are identical.

1 week later
#1741 2 years ago

Wellness check on Ron. Weather has been better lately so maybe he is sanding up a storm? Come in Ron…

#1742 2 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

Wellness check on Ron. Weather has been better lately so maybe he is sanding up a storm? Come in Ron…

Still above ground. I really appreciate the check in. I have to admit I often think about how long I will stink up the place before someone finds me. There has been many times when I went to the back 10, to cut fire wood with the chainsaw. I stopped and figured, I better get the phone incase you still have one arm, but there have been many times when I decided to purposely not take it.

Sanding is exactly what I have been doing. In the last 2 years the amount of and sanding I do on the edges of the holes, and dimples, and countersinks for the t nuts and pop bumper lugs has turned in to 40 min to an hour between each coat. I think its from 2 things that happened about 2 years back.

The first is mirco started doing the cnc cutting after the clear is done. this makes for a super sharp edge around all holes and edges. It not only asking for chipping, butI need to round it, so I can spray the clear over the edge, and on to the wood inside the hole. This makes for a anchor for the clear.

Also a couple years back adrianna (ex squirrel girlfriend) needed some money so I had her sanding for me. she absolutely hated it, but I kept telling her she was over doing it, and it was taking too long. Well I realized I should be so thorough, and it will definitely help the clear in the later years keep its perfect look, so I made it the norm.

Christina Anthony, the weather girl that I am crazy for (dont tell her) says the next 7 days are all going to be warm enough for spraying. I have about 7 pfs that are getting the last coat. off hand, bally stones (I didnt like the original last coat. sorry daane), nos scared stiff, nos demo man 1 and 2, simpsons, lotr, bally star trek, nos I500. Those NOS pfs are going to be amazing because I spaced the coats over 6 months. sanding them is a bitch because the clear is so hard! I cant wait to see them installed.

There is a mirco IJ that is ready for its last coat, but those mirco ij's have inserts that move around sometimes if I let them sit 5 weeks after a coat. so I need to let that one sit a while next to the furnace, and see how it cures out.
soon as those 4 NOS pfs are out, I am going to work on the nos TZ, who dunnit, sttng (which I just dimpled) and champ pub that have been waiting patiently. I have been trying to find a used or dimpled who dunnit, and champ pub to make a template for, but still nothing.

I am seriously appreciative of the customers who have great patience. the longer it takes me, the better the clear, and more resilient to ball dimples.

I am preparing for my anual tax bill, so if you think you are going to need a pf soon, now is the time to make a deal with me. Most of my pfs are on my website, run by mr Skinner (teacher, husband, wrestling coach, web master and all around good fella) and its located at
pinballplayfieldskruzman.com

a couple that are not listed are
repro TAF that I am clearing now
eldorado repro
Flash gordon
wizard nos and repro
sing along repro
alice cooper cleared by me

The rest are on the website. I am always interested in trades, especially trading a pf for a clearcoat, but I havent met a pf I didnt want. I would really like a NOS Star Race!!! for my game.

Thanks for all of the support. I will make sure to get pics as the pfs get finished in the next 2 weeks!

20220223_144549 (resized).jpg20220223_144549 (resized).jpg
#1743 2 years ago

Thanks Ron, I'll be after this week to visit and snag some pictures of those playfields for the website! Looking forward to the trip, and we will have to go grab dinner and play some pinball at One Well!

#1744 2 years ago

So I could not find a better place to ask this question, does anyone know the best way to fix this small clear coat crack?

20220228_220429 (resized).jpg20220228_220429 (resized).jpg
#1745 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

So I could not find a better place to ask this question, does anyone know the best way to fix this small clear coat crack?
[quoted image]

My suggestion is free, but my pf install kit is necessary which cost 95$ shipped.

Most of the time, the glue I use in my kit is thin enough that it wicks in to cracks. if its an issue where you can use gravity, it works even better. But I would take one of the needles, and turn it so the hole is toward the crack, and often when you inject a little glue at the spot where the crack starts, it will wick in if you or a helper uses their thumb to press down on the pf where you want the glue to go. kind of giving it CPR on the area you want the glue to travel. also the second the glue hits that wood its going to immediately soak right in. (you only get one chance with the wood because one you apply the glue it will no longer be porous and want to pull in glue. If the crack doesn't get fixed at least the glue will lock down any chance of that area lifting up any more.

If you do order a kit from me, be sure to remind me who you are, and I will get you a needle/applicator that is smaller gauge that I usually use (just to be precise). This situation is a great example why its good to have the kit in your tool box. At least 5 times a year, a repro pf will get banged on a corner, either by me, someone, or shipping. often the place of impact will have a spot, half the size of a pinky nail that is cracked, or lifted or both, and i have fixed so many of these little issues to totally disappear. If I can make gravity work for me, I always do, and sometimes I will wait till I get a visitor to help me give it cpr. other times I will crank my clamp on the area, and then as I apply the glue, I release the clamp, which draws in the glue.

If you have a laminate issue or de-lam. here is what I do using the parts in the install kit.
I water down some gorrilla wood glue. I take the needle off the barrel, and suck up the glue. then I inject it under and in-between the ply's that have delaminated, and then I clamp, and wipe. The thinned out super glue is not as effective as wood glue, if there is no clear involved. remember, my glue in the kit is acid, and thats how it bonds. wood glue soaks in to the wood pores to grab and then holds them together.

Back to the pic above, since the pof is installed and you cant use gravity, the best you can do is the CPR method as you drip the glue right at the spot you think it will get into the clear. But remember, you get one shot. then the glue melts the clear and seals up the hole most of the time.

Its hard to explain. I remember in college I had a class that had us write instructions, and its not easy,. especially since this is not a part 1 screws to part2 situation. This is more hillbilly engineering.

#1746 2 years ago

If anyone has another suggestion, please feel free to share. I have a friend names chris who often blows my mind with his, (what I call hillbilly or ghetto engineering). Several times he offered solutions that I never thought of, and they worked.

#1747 2 years ago

I have a unique game that was damaged enroute from Australia to the states. It suffered minor damaged on bottom front of cabinet which can easily be repaired. The only issue is the entire Cabinet is painted and cleared and I am trying to find someone who can properly repaint / re-clear the cabinet or the front of cabinet. I would appreciate any help in this.

#1748 2 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

My suggestion is free, but my pf install kit is necessary which cost 95$ shipped.
Most of the time, the glue I use in my kit is thin enough that it wicks in to cracks. if its an issue where you can use gravity, it works even better. But I would take one of the needles, and turn it so the hole is toward the crack, and often when you inject a little glue at the spot where the crack starts, it will wick in if you or a helper uses their thumb to press down on the pf where you want the glue to go. kind of giving it CPR on the area you want the glue to travel. also the second the glue hits that wood its going to immediately soak right in. (you only get one chance with the wood because one you apply the glue it will no longer be porous and want to pull in glue. If the crack doesn't get fixed at least the glue will lock down any chance of that area lifting up any more.
If you do order a kit from me, be sure to remind me who you are, and I will get you a needle/applicator that is smaller gauge that I usually use (just to be precise). This situation is a great example why its good to have the kit in your tool box. At least 5 times a year, a repro pf will get banged on a corner, either by me, someone, or shipping. often the place of impact will have a spot, half the size of a pinky nail that is cracked, or lifted or both, and i have fixed so many of these little issues to totally disappear. If I can make gravity work for me, I always do, and sometimes I will wait till I get a visitor to help me give it cpr. other times I will crank my clamp on the area, and then as I apply the glue, I release the clamp, which draws in the glue.
If you have a laminate issue or de-lam. here is what I do using the parts in the install kit.
I water down some gorrilla wood glue. I take the needle off the barrel, and suck up the glue. then I inject it under and in-between the ply's that have delaminated, and then I clamp, and wipe. The thinned out super glue is not as effective as wood glue, if there is no clear involved. remember, my glue in the kit is acid, and thats how it bonds. wood glue soaks in to the wood pores to grab and then holds them together.
Back to the pic above, since the pof is installed and you cant use gravity, the best you can do is the CPR method as you drip the glue right at the spot you think it will get into the clear. But remember, you get one shot. then the glue melts the clear and seals up the hole most of the time.
Its hard to explain. I remember in college I had a class that had us write instructions, and its not easy,. especially since this is not a part 1 screws to part2 situation. This is more hillbilly engineering.

Any hope in repairing this?

C73AAA76-A778-42BA-8442-7609533727E5 (resized).jpegC73AAA76-A778-42BA-8442-7609533727E5 (resized).jpeg
#1749 2 years ago
Quoted from kruzman:

My suggestion is free, but my pf install kit is necessary which cost 95$ shipped.
Most of the time, the glue I use in my kit is thin enough that it wicks in to cracks. if its an issue where you can use gravity, it works even better. But I would take one of the needles, and turn it so the hole is toward the crack, and often when you inject a little glue at the spot where the crack starts, it will wick in if you or a helper uses their thumb to press down on the pf where you want the glue to go. kind of giving it CPR on the area you want the glue to travel. also the second the glue hits that wood its going to immediately soak right in. (you only get one chance with the wood because one you apply the glue it will no longer be porous and want to pull in glue. If the crack doesn't get fixed at least the glue will lock down any chance of that area lifting up any more.
If you do order a kit from me, be sure to remind me who you are, and I will get you a needle/applicator that is smaller gauge that I usually use (just to be precise). This situation is a great example why its good to have the kit in your tool box. At least 5 times a year, a repro pf will get banged on a corner, either by me, someone, or shipping. often the place of impact will have a spot, half the size of a pinky nail that is cracked, or lifted or both, and i have fixed so many of these little issues to totally disappear. If I can make gravity work for me, I always do, and sometimes I will wait till I get a visitor to help me give it cpr. other times I will crank my clamp on the area, and then as I apply the glue, I release the clamp, which draws in the glue.
If you have a laminate issue or de-lam. here is what I do using the parts in the install kit.
I water down some gorrilla wood glue. I take the needle off the barrel, and suck up the glue. then I inject it under and in-between the ply's that have delaminated, and then I clamp, and wipe. The thinned out super glue is not as effective as wood glue, if there is no clear involved. remember, my glue in the kit is acid, and thats how it bonds. wood glue soaks in to the wood pores to grab and then holds them together.
Back to the pic above, since the pof is installed and you cant use gravity, the best you can do is the CPR method as you drip the glue right at the spot you think it will get into the clear. But remember, you get one shot. then the glue melts the clear and seals up the hole most of the time.
Its hard to explain. I remember in college I had a class that had us write instructions, and its not easy,. especially since this is not a part 1 screws to part2 situation. This is more hillbilly engineering.

Looks like I posted my question in the right spot after all! That actually answers all follows up questions as well. I have the 95 dollar kit you mentioned, it is very nice, helped me a lot to identify what bits work for what. So I thought that solution would probably work. I just wasn't 100% ya know. I will draft my wife's hands in to help get it done right. First test on that kicker arm caused that damage... Anyways, much appreciated!!

#1750 2 years ago
Quoted from CrabbyPatty:

Looks like I posted my question in the right spot after all! That actually answers all follows up questions as well. I have the 95 dollar kit you mentioned, it is very nice, helped me a lot to identify what bits work for what. So I thought that solution would probably work. I just wasn't 100% ya know. I will draft my wife's hands in to help get it done right. First test on that kicker arm caused that damage... Anyways, much appreciated!!

Ahh! so it was the kicker arm that did that. I am glad you said so.

NOTICE: keep in mind your sling shots, and the travel of the kicker. the dimples are not always right. They are only a starting spot!

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