(Topic ID: 243533)

KRUZMAN monthly playfield thread

By kruzman

3 years ago

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10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #103 Kruzman Kit details. Posted by kruzman (3 years ago)

Post #420 Ron offers drill and dimple service for your playfield if needed. Posted by kruzman (2 years ago)

Post #551 Mirco IJ after Ron’s magic to it. Posted by kruzman (2 years ago)

Post #1196 How to care for a Kruzman clearcoated playfield. Posted by kruzman (1 year ago)

Post #1272 jjGnR: Cost and process of fixing Mirco's bad playfield clear Posted by kruzman (1 year ago)

Post #1277 jjGnR: Summary of Mirco playfield problems Posted by kruzman (1 year ago)

Post #1296 The reason Mirco/JJP clear is soft and tears, explained Posted by AMSNL (1 year ago)

Post #1548 Ultimate Alternative Cuss Words Handbook Posted by kruzman (1 year ago)

Post #1727 Instructions for using Ron's Clear Kit. Posted by dmacy (9 months ago)

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#1 3 years ago

I am going to start this thread again, after getting some encouragement for folks. Its basicly for open pf talk, questions ideas, stuff wanted and available, and of course I will be hawking my wares, like my list of nos/reproduction/, and cleared, tweeked, restored pf's.

Now with the help of chris travis' phone camera, I will be posting pics of the jobs that go thru here. some are fairly interesting. I will try to remember to do before pics. People are always buggin me for pics, and I lost interest in pf pics because it is so easy and common to make a pf look like a million bucks with pics, and when it gets here and the check is cleared, it looks like crap. Because of that, I lost interest in pics and put no stock in them. I am going to post more on here, if for nothing but entertainment.

Here is a list of some of the NOS/NEW reproduction pfs I have available:
AC/DC stern pro $650
Batman Dark Knight stern $750
Batman Forever sega $750
Bumper Pool Gottlieb 575$
Car Hop gottlieb $700
Contact williams $375
Corvette NOS bally $975
CSI stern $550
Family Guy stern $850
Harley Davidson stern $650
Indy Jones 4 stern $600
Iron Maiden stern pro $700
James Bond 007 Gottlieb $850
Monte Carlo gottlieb $450
Nitro Ground Shaker Bally/cpr gold $750 plastics available
No Fear williams $800
Popeye bally $600
Speakeasy bally $600
Spiderman Stern nos $800
Spring Break gottlieb $675
Star wars episode 1 williams 800$
Rolling Stones LE stern $800
Simpsons data east $900 In studio for paint and clear, Price is going up
Simpsons pinball party set. stern $900
Addams Family Bally silver $875
Transformers stern $500
Wheel of Fortune stern $550
Wiz of OZ JJP $500
WWF Royal Rumble pf set Data east $975
Xenon Bally CPR gold custom starburst inserts $975

STAR WARS Data East nos cleared dimpled, and tweeked $2000
Amazing Spiderman gottleib nos. cleared, inserts glued and painted dimpled, tweeked $1900

There is a list of my used pfs on my website pinballplayfieldskruzman.com. as well as shipping crates

Clearcoated/reproduction PF install kit $75

Pinside will get a donation for all sales

#3 3 years ago

Here are some "before "pics of a gorgar pf I did for ken white in CA. he does amazing restorations. I remembered to take the pics after I reset 5 inserts, and glued and leveled all of the rest. This has one very thin coat down and sanded 600 grit. Pf was all ready dimpled

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#4 3 years ago

and some after. NOS pfs from this era take plenty of paint work. This one was not planked which is unusual

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#5 3 years ago

Here is a before and after of a touched up area. This is an IPB pf and they did the touch up. Many of the IPB MM pfs had touch up that is hard to find sometimes because it is such a busy pf. Of course once you see t, it is all you see from now on!

There are 2 touched up spots up by the top 2 lanes, and then one by the arrow insert. The red spots are about an inch, and then there is the black in the inserts. The arrow on the left side of the pf had to be done also. These pics are not of the final project. after I do repaint, I lay a coat of clear down to see how it matched since the clear deepens and darkens the colors.

I am not sure why, but people talk poorly of the fact that I dont accept resto work, but the majority of the work I do involves this type of thing. restorations put me in bankruptcy, but thats a story for another day.

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#6 3 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I would be interested in a Flash Gordon set!

Flash gordon pfs are really rare. If I run across one, I have a post-it here on the wall to remind me.

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Ron, I think every pinball manufacturer should hire you to clear coat. Your shit is not only amazing looking, it doesn't (like another manufacturers clear job) look like a damn golf ball after 25 games AND it doesn't chip/crack. Seriously guys if you need a clear job, this guy is THE MAN to send it too. Fantastic product, fantastic service and fantastic guy.

I really appreciate that.
One of my friends, just this week, wrote to the reproduction pf maker about the flaws on his new pf, and the reply he received was, " it is going to be fine after 25 plays", and he went on to say that "the pf's that cost 500 look exactly the same after 25 plays and (he) dosent know why people waste their money." He knows nothing about my work (although he has known me for years). That is my biggest focus. Ball dimples. My work has been progressing since the first year. I am constantly trying to do better, but 2 years ago, I found a way to make my clear repel ball dimples even more than before. It has a lot to do with why my process takes 13 weeks.

I definitely wouldn't do this for a living if I didn't think I was contributing and making pinball a little better, and being involved in the restorations people do is an honor.

Here is something a lot of folks don't know. I have a couple of tests I do to check the mechanical bond of the clear. The first I do to one pf in each group. (which is 5 or 6 pf's) I got this from the diamondplate pf's that sun did. I put masking tape on the cleared pf after the 2nd or 4th coat, and I cut an X thru the tape in to the clear with a utility knife. the first test is when I pull the tape if it takes clear with it. The next test is I hit the cuts with 175 lbs of compressed air to see if it will lift. The test that is done on every pf is after sanding I clean out all of the holes and edges with the 175 lbs air gun that will quickly identify any weak bonds in the clear. Its totally relative, but my service is expensive, and I just want to do the best I can do. Not every pf comes out perfect. some I believe are possesed, and will just not co operate, but I always do my best, and re do it a couple times.

#10 3 years ago

I am clearing an alice cooper pf that is going to be installed at the factory, and the art is really cool. I like that it is not a cut and paste job like what stern has been using for the most part lately. I love stern games, its just since most of the titles are licence's, its cut and paste computer work. I really like the bm66, and the Iron maiden. Of course dirty donnies work is the best stern has ever offered in my opinion.

Ok here is an opportunity to brag for you guys. What is you most cherished pf. One pf. Please no collections. No pfs that you dont own any more (I have hunderds of regrets). I like to hear what titles are still out there.

My submission is Gottlieb Amazing Spiderman

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#11 3 years ago

Well that went over like a led zeppelin.
No one else has a nos/new that want to brag about?

I will break my own rule and say that a nos Rocky from the gottlieb collection sale is the coolest pf I have ever owned.of course I had to sell it because its my job

This morning I was watching "How its made" and it was hand made shotguns. simple double barrel and over and under. everything hand made and everything one of a kind. Tough to decide what was more beautiful the metal or the wood. I was guessing 8 grand for one. then they said that each gun had about 1000 hours of work including the hand engraving and wood work. I doubt that charge 10 bucks a shop hour like I did when doing resto work, so I am guessing 100k$ for these beauties. sure you can buy them at wall mart for 275, but these were unbelieveable. the kind of stuff really rich people pass down for generations. really inspiring to watch,. I had never heard of the name but it was 2 names that started with an H. The wood was burled walnut. The engraving had so much depth, similar to a really complicated proof coin.
Anyway it was good inspiration for me... (to raise prices. Ha!) jk

#14 3 years ago

Holland and holland!!!! absolutely beautiful!!!!

#15 3 years ago

I am putting together funds for a roof as well as rafters for the studio, as well as a van, so if you have been out here and know my games, they are all for sale.
I am going to put together all of the titles and prices and in the next few days. I listed the elvis beautiful, shoppped, $3600 and the huo dale jr $3500 on another thread. I have a restored flight 2k I do not want to sell. New pf and e\verything on it is new. all tec cpu and rotten dog Bridge rec board. BGR back glass. the cab is the only thing left to do and it could use a little tune up because I havent played 10 games on it yet. led light. its beautiful 2600 firm.
I have a batman forever with a cleared nos pf installed. cab is 9.5 game is amazing $4k
Gottlieb world beauties wood rail, has been working in my living room for about 5 years, never broke once. love that game $650.
The nicest dr dude I have ever seen cab and pf are amazing. no broken plastics or any thing on the pf. amazing game 3500

I am listing my best games, most I have had a long time. I dont want to sell any of them, but I have to borrow money for this project and I would like to borrow less than more. I am going to list everything on cl and FB, so I will put links to them when I get them done.

#16 3 years ago

forgot to say I dont want to ship any games. pick up, cash on the glass.

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

Here’s my most valued playfield. Does it look familiar Ron?
Thanks, Damon[quoted image]

wow that viking looks totally different once you start getting parts on it . will you please post more pics as the project comes along. That pic just made my day!

#21 3 years ago

I have worked on 2 asteroid annies, and restored one, so 3 total, and I have only seen one game. Thats a pf I would love to own.

#30 3 years ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

I don’t have much to offer, I’ve only been into pinball for 2 years now, but here’s my submission. I’ve been hand painting this GS on and off for about a year now. I would say I’m about 90% done and hope to try my first clear coat in a few months.
I really wanted to buy Ron’s Wade Krause, but couldn’t justify the expense since the rest of the machine is pretty beat. I’ve certainly learned a lot though. It’s very valuable to me because of all the time I’ve put into it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That gold strike is comming along well. I do it just as your are, then I lock down my colors with fix spray or super light clear, and then do my black. what I really like is the clear will up the speed with less friction, and it will play nice and fast.

Having a collection of christiansen pfs, whould be a great collection, and would take some time and work to achieve. The reason I got in to pfs was because things went sour on me one day, and I found myself living in a 550 sq foot, 1 bedroom apt, so I scaled down to 2 pins in the dining room. I started collecting pfs so I could get my fix.

#31 3 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Have you ever cleared a jersey jack playfield?

I have done about 15 jj pfs total. what titles have they done besides wiz, hobbit and dialed in? I think those are the only ones I have done. I remember the hobbit had so much wood cut out that when I measured from side to side there was 75% of the wood missing, so I was afraid that the wood was going to flex a lot. I am going to have to do a joust for a friend soon, and I have no idea how that will go since when I am done, I run a heavy 13 amp buffer over it for a day (at about 2k rpm).

As for singing the pf's, its been a point of contention for me. I didnt want to sign them because it was a work of art, and I only contributed a part of it, and if I was the original artist I wouldn't appreciate it. I think it sucks that the pf manufactures never mention the original artists or send them a check. Even if it was just 5 bucks per.
Then for about 2 years I used my grandma's crown stamp from her deli in hamtramic. Lately I have been using the stamp but I keep forgetting to use it before the poly the back. It will wipe right off if I do it after,

One thing I do is I use a upc sticker on the WPC repro pfs that dont have one. I really like that detail, because it messes people up when it is installed because thats the first way to see if a pf is a repro (of course there are other tell tale signs). One of the advantages of buying one of my tweeked TAF pf's is it has a upc sticker. I am waiting for the final coats to cure on a tweeked cpr taf right now that will be for sale. Its for sale now for 1700.

Tommy skinner and I have come up with a very simple decal to start using, I just need to figure out where and how to get it made. I think I will take it to kinkos. Now that mirco puts his name under the clear, I may as well add mine.

There was a pf here in pinside for sale that was listed as my clear coat, and a customer checked with me to see if it was legit, which is was not. I do know the seller and I think it was just a mistake, though there are plenty of people on ebay that sell "kruzman" pfs that are not mine. I contacted ebay and they told me to go punch sand. I keep the envelope of every payment for pfs and clear (I dont take paypal for that service) so I can look up pfs from pretty far back, and I suggest to people to check with me before buying anything that is claimed to be my work. Usually the seller has a pic of the pf in my crate,and with my packaging, so that is very easy to tell. I may look on the net to see if there is a printer who does this kind of stuff for a decal. Maybe one of you guys is in that field and can help me

#32 3 years ago

I know it is a fat chance, but I need a used Spirit pf to restore for a friend in B.C. to do when I finish this DE Simpsons and VOLTAN. Please contact me if you can sell or trade one.
I just remembered when I was going thru Gene Cunninghams personal collection at his house he had a couple Bon Voyage games done of course by christinsen. I came so close to buying one of the games, but I have not seen that pf available in a coons age.

If you are a fan of christensen, check out Robert Williams. He is an artist in S.CA. still alive I believe. I got to meet him in 92 when I lived out there. his work has pinball written all over it. The best book featuring most of his woek is "views from a Tortured Libido" published by Last Gasp. Introduction by dr. tim leary. It has in depth analysis of 60 of his greatest oils.

Good old Gene Cunningham wrote and published a book on Christiansen titles Mad dog and his art. Gene was friends with him in the 70's and really enjoied the friendship. Christiansen gave gene a couple of Back glasses for his games that are full on nudes, and glorious! Including the top less matta hari, which I have one, and "son of fireball"

My last suggestion is a book from a gallery show that I contributed to, on Christiansen called; Broads, Boobs, and Buckles. I thing gene contributed to it also. Thats show was in 09.

#34 3 years ago

well there we go. That is a little easier. good ol mirco. bless his heart

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

Thanks Ron! Can you tell me what “fix spray” is? I did some searching for it and only came up with hair care products. I assume it’s not hair spray, but what do I know... I have Spraymax 2k, so I don’t think I can spray a light coat of clear and finish my black without wasting a whole can.

I have been using this stuff since art school. Those thin black circles are very hard to paint. if you lock down your existing paint then if you dont like what your results are, you can remove the black without the colors.

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#39 3 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Haven't used Sprayable fixative for awhile. Was contemplating giving it a shot or the paint on type.
Going to have to read up on some Playfield restoration techniques using Sprayable fixitive vs frisket or art tape.

I am told that VID has hundreds or more tips on doing restor work (on pf;s). I think it is awesome that he has spent so much time contributing to the benefit of the hobby. I have not done more than 2 full restores a year for the last 3-4 years (I think). I haven't been able to find a way to make a living at it, and by living I mean grossing 20k a year. When you are doing a restore for your self, you know exactly what your specs are, and what is good enough for you and the job. working for people I dont know, I have no idea whats good enough, so that leaves me with doing the absolute best I can, which takes me a lot of time.

People form an opinion of my work after seeing one job. If that was a job that a customer wanted to spend as little money as possible, and the pf is not all that great, and then changes hands... The new owner is unaware of the original specs and budget. Then it can be concluded that I suck. Since day one, this is the problem I have wrestled with.
Other pf restorers have different levels, but it goes back to that same story, when once it changes hands, its just said that kruzman did the pf, and if there is a huge range of quality possibilities ,there is a huge chance there will be a disappointment.

The other thing I ran in to with restoring pf's was I would have a customer who was specific with his expectations, and was very happy with the job, but the people who are not involved do more talking about their opinion of the work. So not only was it super frustrating, but I spend so much time on doing the things I do, as well as I can, I exceed the budget quickly, and do the rest for free.

Sorry to yap your ear off. I have got 3 people who very respectfully, and kindly didn't understand why I wont do the restor work for them. Its my favorite job, which may be why it's where I dont get much pay. Now days they are paying 15 per hour at mcdonalds, and I have charged less than 15 per hour ,SHOP TIME, many many many times. Since I live pretty simple, and make enough to qualify for medicaid, I can work cheap... until the roof at my studio in the barn is falling in. Which brings up one of the many reasons pinball is the greatest hobby in the world. Each game is a little savings acct that you get to play with! A lot of games go up 5-10% a year, and they are fairly liquid. As I say this I realize that if this is my contingency plan, I should concentrate more on the popular A title games rather than the red head step child games I seem to love the most. They are not as easy to sell quick, and dont appreciate as much. Case in point. My fav games right now are elvis. 007, and dr dude, batman forever, eldorado city of gold, dragon, and a game I used to hate gottlieb Monte Carlo. In this case, it may be the nicest one in existence, (with topper). A lot of times when a game has been restored or in amazing condition, that will go a long way on my enjoyment of the title as a whole.

I am guessing a lot of you may use your games in the same way. I do know it is a great way to get the wife/partner on board when trying to justify shelling out a butt load for a pin. So there is my tip of the day.

#41 3 years ago

Yesterday I was starting the prep on a NOS TAF pf. One of the first things is to remove the existing finish and level it out. also sand the smooth areas for the clear to bite on to.
You may be able to see in the first pics the planking that is getting started. look up at the blue in front of the bear rug. The whole pf is like this. The grain of the wood has swollen. The best way for me to explain it, is I see the grain as mountains and valleys. I not only have to get down in to the valley to level, and remove the clear, but also to get rid of the gloss. leveling all the way down to the lowest valley will level the area (except where there is an insert, which can be way up or down) so I have to be super careful because it is easy to sand in to the paint at the top if a mountain while trying to get the lowest valley.

If I level this out and seal the pf so moisture is not an issue, it will do a lot to stop it from progressing. If I dont sand out the valleys, I will have a bonding issue as well as it will look like crap and will show the planking under my clear. as long as the paint/ink has not cracked, it will not show, after sanding." It takes a gentle hand" and experience. This is an example why it is important that if you are going to hire someone to clear, a body shop guy will know nothing of this.

Many of the inserts will have a low spot that is below the edge of the wood surface. if I dont sand that, all of the same issues apply plus there will be ghosting in no time. When I feel I am getting too close for comfort, I hand sand to minimize damage. after sanding I can see the cracks around the inserts, and if this pf was 5 years older I would be painting many of the insert key lines. Inserts are shaped to pop up when the wood squeezes them rather than to crack. so after years of expansion and contraction, they are never level. After I do this I have to hand sand all of the edges of the cut outs, ball holes shooter lane, ramp divots, and all of the dimples for drilling during installation.

Another time I encounter this chore is after a reproduction pf gets here, after is has just been released. I learned the hard way to put it in the closet to dry and cure before doing my clear. many of them develop this wood grain texture in 2-6 months. If I cleared as soon as it got here, it would do its thing under my clear, and that would suck. really only one of the major repro pf makers has this happen all of the time. The other rarely has it. I don't know if it is better wood or the wood is drier when printed

The last 2 pics show that I needed to remove the t nuts rather than leave them in and plug the holes. I couldn't get a good sand because they are high. Part of my procedure is to dremmil out the clear out of the t nut holes until the last 2 coats. That way t nut installation is much easier

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#43 3 years ago

as promised for karri.
This is straight out of the spray room. It will still be block sanded from 600-3000 grit, then polished out, then run a rag thru all of the holes to get the compound out.
This pf was done, but its didn't feel right. It didn't feel as heavy as it should, and there was not enough clear on it. I dont like thick clear. One of the repro makers, makes his finish too thick. that doesn't make it stronger or harder at all! Think about a Damascus knife blade. its strong because of hundreds of thin layers. anyway I just didn't have a good feeling about it, and the customer has been kind enough to be patient, so I sanded it down and did 2 more coats. Now I am very confident.
Before the last coat, I use my" handy dandy install kit" (trademarked) to remove most of the clear in the t nut holes and the countersunk pop bumper nail/screw holes, and the ramp lip recesses. You don't want that stuff with 10 coats of clear in it. I don't have a way to measure but I would say it is thinner than one of the most popular repro makers clear, or about the same thickness. For some reason, I have spent soooo much time trying to figure out why, but nos pfs come out best with my process and sterns really work well.

Lastly. The studio work is relatively light right now. less than 12 jobs in house. so if you have been waiting for a time to send a pf in. now is the time.

If you hate to send your priceless pf in the mail, I can make you a heavy duty ship crate, and sent it to you with the packing. you just need a drill driver for the screws. it will take you less than 5 min to pack it up, and I have never had one damaged in 10 years with "the crate" (trademarked).

as always thanks to every one for the support. Also feel free to post anything pertaining to pfs on this thread. It keeps it relevant.

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#46 3 years ago
Quoted from northerndude:

Beauty thread Ron, thx for this. one question. As you're sanding and looking for the valleys on say a minor planked PF to get right down so it's smooth. Do you use natural light or a flashlight or another tool to see all of the points of the PF so you don't see any "shine" left from the previous clear? Do you wipe over and over to make sure you've got it all?

This question is exactly what I wanted to experience in this thread, besides sell my wears. I am not going to give out trade secrets, but a specific question like this, is something I like answering because it tells me the poster wants to do awesome work. It took a long time to figure this out. Sometimes I think about stuff like how did man figure out yogurt. I have heard there is a special bacteria in the bladder of a goat that makes the milk turn to yogurt when warmed from hanging on the side of a camel. Nomad travelers would use a bladder to bottle their milk in and hang it on the side of the camel. One guy didnt clean his freshly gutted bladder, and it still had the bacteria in it. what are the chances someone figures this out? and then ate it? I mean soap? how did they figure that out so long ago?

I was working just inside the big door at the shop because it was cold as hell but I wanted my dustings to go outside so I had a fan blowing out but the furnace blasting. anyway, by standing in the dark shop looking out at a 45 degree angle down on the pf, with bright light outside, it shows the slightest gloss that I may have missed. When I am working planking yet dont want to get below the paint, I will work at that spot. Otherwise I have a table set there for me to take the pf to set it down and inspect. I can never match the light of the sun, even millions of miles away( I learned that from indoor growing and then later prison).

So great question. whats the next question for stump the chump?

#47 3 years ago

I check my email every morning, so you can write thru pinside, but if you want to send pics, or want me to send pics, its better to write me at [email protected]
that way I can save the email. Please put the title of the game in the subject and I wont have to get hassled when I dont know the owner of a complete job.

On those cpr firepoower, as well as cyclone and one other title, cpr got new inserts and didnt sand the edges or use the right adhesive on the hot dog inserts and they popped out. They are tapered to pop out rather than crack, and when they do under clear, I do not want to fix it. I have my cyclone pf here from years ago. some places the clear will peal off some places it bites in to the ink and takes it off. total mess. so just keep an eye out for that. after the initial shipments they took care of the problem I believe and they allowed folks to send in theirs to get glued. I dont read the forum, or keep up on new stuff, so I pulled mine out of the closet. ( I always put the repros in there for 3-5 months to cure) and I had a surprise. and I tried to repair it so I wouldnt feel right contacting cpr to get assistance or refund.

so on your firepower, I will epoxy the inserts from behind either way, to be safe.

#48 3 years ago

I want to post some good news:
I know cpr is transitioning from screen printing to digital printing. Kev anounced it like 9 months ago, and I thought he meant they were going to do it then. He said they can do runs of one pf of any title. (you can find the press release in the archives here) I was sending folks to them, but I found out that its in the future and they are still doing screening.

But here is the good news. I am doing a EATPM for a customer, and I think the print looks really good. I dont know if itis digital or screen (maybe someone knows) but kudos to kevin and his folks at cpr for a nice job. That is a great game that looks play as important part as function. When a title has a beautiful woman, or great artwork (which is becomming very rare in the recient releases) then a lot of the enjoyment of the game is the looks and condition. This one probably can make the numbers for people who do them for a living, to do spec games. If I could I would buy one. I thing bill in dorr MI still has my game and I will kindly have that back please!

#49 3 years ago

Maybe someone who reads this thread is in the printing biz. I need to get some kruzman pinball playfield stickers made for the pfs. I have a couple designs, although I am not absolutly cracy about them. they have the essentials. So if you are in the print biz or have a great printer and can make them please contact me. Thanks in advance. K

I had a guy make UPC stickers for when I do wpc games and quite often they dont have them installed which screams repro. Repro is not bad, but I like to make it confusing, so I install the upc stickers. On the pics above you see that nos TAF pf has no sticker. so when he sent pics and asked for advice, the first thing I saw was no sticker, but there were a bunch of tell tale signs that said WPC which it is. After working on them for over a decade I can tell real fast if it is in my hands, but with pics. (people say a pic is worth a thousand words... yes plenty of them lies) I saw Anna Nicole Smith in real life once when I lived in santa monica

Have a great day. play some pinball. or buy a pf!

#50 3 years ago

happy sat morning. I want to post a link to an inspiring pf install. the guy doing the work is doing a super top notch job, and sweating the details. He also bought one of my pf install kits ($85 shipped) and it is really helping with the finish quality, as well as smooth progress, it seems.
Also I think sys 11 games are really worth restoring to this level. They didnt yet have the memory or display, but its an era of amazing titles from all of the manufactures of the day. here is a link


I know its kind of a pain in the butt to take pics and document the work, but this serves to show people how to, as well as give a reference as to the level or quality you can achieve. Its a stock cpr pf (which I am not a huge fan of that clear) but this title looks beautiful, and everyone has numbers and budgets they have to stay within, or customers with the budgets.

Take a second and check it out when you have time. it inspires me!

1 week later
#51 3 years ago

I got some final pics to post before I ship. trying to get in the habit of taking more pics. The customers want to see them.
first is an Apollo 13, that is NOS but it was fully populated, then stripped, and I did my thing. This title gets beat up pretty good and ghosts like crazy. This is now so flat and smooth, with no friction it will play a lot faster and smoother

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#53 3 years ago

I was trying to explain on another thread on the diner pf about the reason to have me do my process on a new repro pf that is "perfect" after all it is a gold.
One of the things is the difference between a sprayed finish and a sprayed finished that was block sanded and polished. both reflect light, but the reflection in my clear is very sharp. the trees you can see in the pics above, are over 100 feet away on the ground. The reflection is sharp, and not distorted. The look of the finish is secondary to me. What is most important is a pf that will not show the beating it takes from that heavy steal ball. I am super concerned with the mechanical bond that wont lift when installing properly or later down the line.
I get all but one coat of clear out of the t nut counter sinks and other areas where you dont want it to make installation easier to be successful. Not to mention sealing and finishing the back so that after you are all done you dont have black finger prints all over the back which I have seen countless times.
Here is the final product pics of the lotr that I posted a couple weeks ago.

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#54 3 years ago

In that last pic, I showed the 2 purple insert outlines because I had to paint them. they had pretty distracting cracks around them, and it is one of the few places where I can paint color on this pf. since it is photographs, and they fade with pixels, most of the solid colors have a pixel texture to them. I think since they had to layer ink to get this color it got rid of the pixel texture so I could match and paint it.

1 week later
#59 3 years ago

Here are some pics of TnA for ya all. These pfs are done by a maker I haven't dealt with. very different. I am doing 2, for different customers, and each pf is quite different from each other. I have noticed that they were new and not dry when I received them, because I let the first 2 coats dry 17 days, and by then there was wood grain in the surface of the clear, similar to what happens some times with cpr pf's. Its super easy to fix, but the key is to wait for it to be done drying before I finish.

One thing I tried to show in the pics is the consistent surface flatness. when you just spray without blocking, you get big hills around all edges. all liquid will pull its self to an edge once it finds one. also there is no compound left inside the edges of the cut outs and holes from all of the buffing. They used a green colored material for gluing the inserts I believe, and it is here and there. I am interested to play this game at the next show I go to in the fall.

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#63 3 years ago

I havent got a chance to play TNA, but several of the people who have similar game taste as I, speak very highly of it. I like deep progressive rules, so I am looking forward to it.

This is the first one that I have shipped to spooky. I dont know what to expect on installation. I am guessing is just a job to most of the employees, and they dont see it as their prized possession, after all, they make them every day. I just hope that since it is going to react a little different than the other pfs they are doing, that they dont mind dealing with the issue of being a little more fragile. The pfs they install daily all ready have scratches, and nibs and what not. This one is flawless, so the smallest "oops" is going to glare. So Hopefully it will install and look great. The other issue is time. I haven't talked to them, and I am told time is not an issue. The TNA and alice pfs that have come here all seem pretty new, and still drying wood (just like all the repro pfs) They are the current title so they have not had a chance to sit around. I could tell after I did a set of coats and let it cure, after 15 days the wood grain was visible in the surface of the clear. So I am taking my time, but I dont want to hold them up. I could finish the 2 other spooky pfs I am doing this weekend, but I am going to give them one and 2 more weeks to cure, before i do the final block sand and polish.

I am always humbled by praise and good things said about my work. Its all word of mouth for the ad budget here, so thank you very much.

#64 3 years ago

I forgot to mention that I wanted to talk about cleaning the compound out of the holes when done with the job. The TNA shown above as well as with all of the other jobs I do, are going to be installed by someone else who ultimately finishes the job. So its that person who really has his or her name on the restoration.
I am happy to see people are polishing out clear jobs, but if you dont clean your cutouts and holes, either the installer has to, or it gets installed with the coumpound and wax in the edges and low spots. I dont think its the installers job to clean the wax and compound, so remember... its not done until you clean it.
If you dont, it will have to be done by someone else or it wont get done and wont look as good as it could after all of every ones effort.
I think it took me a good year, when I first got started to realize this.

2 weeks later
#65 3 years ago

I think it is on the cpr website concerning clearcoats, or it could have been a letter forwarded from cpr to me, from a customer, but it says, and I paraphrase" that it does you no good to pay the insane price to have someone reclear a cpr pf because the finish will ball dimple just as ours will. Its the nature of the metal ball and soft wood."
It bothered me for a long time because I spend a lot of time on the clear that I do to make it able to withstand the abuse a machine experiences. I could make way more per hour if I didnt worry about making a hard finish. of course wood is only so hard, but with research, trial and effort, and a lot of time and elbo grease, it is a fact that my finish wears MUCH better than a stock finish.
I got a letter yesterday that makes me very happy. I asked for permission to reprint this of course.

The pf that I did for this customer is not a cpr. My point is that the assumption that my finish dimples the same as a stock reproduction finish is incorrect, and there is no way I would do this work, breathe these fumes, and make this salary if I was not making a difference.

Hi Ron,

I hope you're doing well. I wanted to commend you on just how well your work holds up and contrary to popular belief disproves that dimples are "normal". I was skeptical but after ~125 plays, no wax, and a few severe ball launches due to a misadjusted stand up target, your clear coat still looks like new and shows zero dimples. I had read about your work over the years and really had a hard time believing what I read. It was/is all very much true. Not sure if you care or not, but I've attached a few pics for you to view (zooming in really tells the tale) and wanted to thank you for your efforts in this community. I very much look forward to using your services again in the future.

Aka pinside ID CLEllison

#66 3 years ago

These go with the letter above

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#68 3 years ago

Here are some pics of an alice cooper that came out awesome. I like the art on this pf a lot.

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#73 3 years ago

I have some new pfs that will be here in the next 2 weeks.
harlem globetrotters
bally playboy
banzi run
all cpr gold.

I may not sell the playboy because I need one and this one has starburst inserts like my xenon. starburst inserts were not used for a couple more years, they are a very subtle mod that really looks sweet

#78 3 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You simply wont be disappointed. Dimples arent normal
Ron charges $575 for the clear and $75 shipping back. Btw, I bought starship ramps as well. FYI the steps ramp is 1/4" short at the bottom (ramp flap). DONT drill your ramp until you set it in and see where the holes should be.

I am not sure if this info on the FH ramps are common knowledge, but this is a great thing to know ahead of time. I think if someone is doing research, they should find this. This is a great example of how helpful pinside is. Doing a pf swap is the equivalent of swapping the motor in a 97 subaru outback. We found a bunch of helpful info in the net before and during the job.

With Funhouse, I think it is either a IPB, NOS or mirco. Mircos are obvious by the clearcoat being thick. Nos will have dates on the edges, and sometimes t nuts. if you see t nuts, its nos.

The way I tell if a Bally playboy is repro or nos, the nos has the white primer from the top side sprayed around the inside of the ball holes, and it has overspray on the back around the ball holes. All of the old ballys have this.

On DMD bally williams pfs, I also watch for the upc sticker at the bottom left side

AS for my prices there is one more charge that is significant. After I work on a pf it has to be shipped in a sturdy wood crate. Some people who have the facilities and time, send them in one, if not I sell them for 70 including the packaging. They last over a dozen round trips without problem. Usually around that time, or whenever necessary. I put a new top on them. I have had so many pfs damaged and destroyed from shipping in cardboard. I sold a used pf this month and shipped in cardboard, (since I didnt work on it I didnt insist on the wood crate) the package was exposed to so much water, they not only had to relabel it for the address, they taped cardboard around it. This was not just left out in rain, it looked like it was under a downspout. I cant figure out how it happened, but, that is just the latest example.
And a warning to people who think just because it is insured, it will be covered for how much I insured it for. All of the shippers are different when it comes to claims, I have strong opinion of that, but one thing they all have an issue with is how a piece of plywood can be worth 300-3000. They do not just hand out checks for how much you insured it for.

Way back in 1989 while in school, I loaded trucks at ups for the christmas season rush. That experience was an opportunity to see how the packages get handled, and what to expect if a pf is not wrapped properly..

Anyway the shipping crate is expensive. But it is necessary, and its a good investment. Once you have one you will be able to pack up a pf in less than 5 mins, and for the most part, not have to worry about it getting destroyed in its travels. In some cases when a client needs to ship a pf to me, and dose not have a crate, and doesn't feel comfortable sending the pf in a cardboard box, I will ship them a crate, with packing. The shipping cost for the crate when empty is $30.

Most reproduction pfs dont need paint work, although there are a lot if IPB repros that have plenty of screening issues to be cleaned up. This is why gene liked to sell them at shows so people could inspect them. He would have 10 lined up and it took so much time to play" find waldo" If there is work on the average repro pf, it is hairline cracks around inserts. There are several different shades of black that the different manufactures use. I have it down to basically 4 paints. Then, even if it is not an exact match, I paint the whole line so at that point it wont matter or show. If it is a couple inserts and black I dont charge. If it is more than 4, I have to charge hourly paint or shop time (40 per hour)

#79 3 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

Digging out a NOS Frontier to bring up to you soon. Maybe a couple others for a spot touch up. Gonna be awesome! Love Michigan in the summer.

I have a really nice Frontier here in the shop, I am just getting started on. its reglued and leveled, now time to paint inserts. Its going to be beautiful. The clear really deepens the colors and contrast. I will post pics when done. It is in as nice of condition as a nos of its age can be.

#80 3 years ago

I wanted to get some pics posted of this pf before I shipped it back to its owner. I have never seen one before, nor the game. Its an alien. The new clearcoat, and fine polish really brings out the background, for lack of better terms seemed to set way back (if it were 3 dimension) I just finally saw pics of the pf installed with the rest of the games parts, and the art work makes more sense to me now I think it looks really nice. I was told there is a long story as to why the game didnt make it to production (which I dont know anything about).
I am sure this would fit in perfect next to a space invadors
I am not sure who did it. If you know, feel free to post the artist's name.
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#81 3 years ago

You can see in the ramp lip cut out that I had to dremmil out the clear which had some adhesion issues from the original clear. it may have had dust in the corner, or it just had some reason for there to be clear that was not anchored to the wood. (around the inside edges)

#83 3 years ago

I edited my original post with the alien pics. when I read it this morning I could see how it could have been read negatively or critical about the art on alien, and thats not what I was trying to say, so I looked up pics of the game, before expressing my opinion again. I think the final
project or the pf installed looks really cool.
I like the way the clear seems to bring out the dark alien images in the background.

After seeing that aurich did this art (I am very impressed) but it totally makes sense to me now. Though I dont know him, face to face, this dark style seems totally his influence. I am pretty sure its his art on my sisters acdc pro, which we really dig. Kudos to him for doing a pf. The art rather than just the shinny gloss on top

#85 3 years ago

My girlfriend thought i should rethink it, because she follows it, and she saw it as negative. So I blew her off but once i realized it was aurich, I changed it just in case.
There is so much negative, devicecive speech going on in america right now I dont want to be a part of it.

#87 3 years ago

Well I have never produced an entire pf on my own, the closest I have is a run of 12 nude creech pfs, and I only did the girl. I also did a topless genie, so I really respect anyone who has the talent and stones to put his work out there. That being said I wanted to make sure it was not misunderstood.
So there we go.

#88 3 years ago

I have some new arrivals that are available. I mentioned them, but now I got to inspect them, and they have no issues. That may be because someone got to hand pick them since he is in the same area as cpr.
Bally playboy plus a couple of the colored inserts that were clear, were made with starburst inserts (same as my xenon) 950$
Harlem globetrotters 875
elviria 900
Banzi run 900

Ted nugent/ nos cleared by bill davis. Drilled and dimpled, very nice

I still have a cpr addams family that I went thru and tightened, cleared, and sealed the back 1750$

also a NOS DE STARWARS. I really tightened up the art work, reglued the inserts, leveled them, cleared, sealed the back, drilled and dimpled $2000
as well as the used DESW that I made the drill dimple template from for 300

1 week later
#90 3 years ago

You may want to keep an eye on my website in the next week or 2. I will be listing some amazing rare german pf's. Miss world, lady death, and space rider, just to name a couple. they are nos and so cool. If you dont know about this type of pf, it was very popular in germany for them to design a new game on the games that were readily available, and worn and people were bored of. so games like matta hari, globetrotters, even kiss. Believe it or not the pf they made to redo the kiss game, is as good, but has a whole bunch of nudity. So you install a new pf, new BG, and you have a new game that is very rare, and in some cases would not make many customers in the more conservative areas of the states.

I will post more info as I get it

#91 3 years ago

Check this out on ebay, its a space rider pf. A german nos pf that is made to convert the harlem globetrotters, to a custom game. I am pretty sure the seller has a line on backglass for it also, so that you can do the whole project proper.
check it out I love it!

ebay.com link: 0

#92 3 years ago

I Talked to the seller and if the buyer wants it shipped in one of my shipping crates, that can be done, or it can be sent to me for work and clear.

ALSO, I can drill/dimple the pf if it is not dimpled

#94 3 years ago

Here is a nos frontier I am working on. The inserts were quite nice considering the age, but they still had the cracks around them. Some of the inserts in the bonus area have black art that goes right to the key circle. So I glued all of the inserts from behind because of the age, and I painted all of the black keylines around the inserts except the ones where the art hits the black key line. After I put down a thin coat to check my work I didnt like that the remaining inserts that I didnt paint really showed their crack because the clear magnifies.
so since I had clear down I didnt want to paint the art in the inserts because it would look slightly elevated, and I sanded as low as possible and drew key lines around them. I have all ready matched the black exactly (I use 8 different shades of black). If it works like it should, it should match perfect and look really good after a coat. I will post the pic after I do another coat.

even though this was a very nice example of this title, there are 48 inserts, and they all have that crack, especially after I sand the pf level in prep. So that is 48 inserts to glue and paint. 9 of them I had to draw.

I figured I would post a day in the life rather than just BUMP

I also want to thank the owner and all of my customers for the support

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#95 3 years ago

sorry for the crappy pic. not much light today

1 week later
#97 3 years ago
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#98 3 years ago

Here is some pics of the Lady death and Space rider game kits that are for sale on my website. If you have never heard of them, it was a company that would take a game that bally made huge numbers of, so they were available cheap, and there were plenty of games that made their quarters and were no longer being used. So they made new art work on a pf, back galss, and plastic set... New game, new theme, on an old globetrotters
When these were made it was all about space. star wars, star trek movies had just been made. People couldnt get enough space themed stuff. I know I couldnt. The only thing that could be better is add some hot pinup chicks. Well they did that also!
I think the biggest reason these kits were not a big hit over here is, after the election in 1980, american culture was going to tighten up the sex left over from the 70's. Ed Mease, Ron and Nancy, and the folks to direct the national endowment for the arts, wanted to get rid of all of the lewd and lascivious nudity in our culture.

So I think it was timing. They were made at the wrong time. They sold plenty in europe. Anyway now they are cool collector items. They made one of the Kiss title, and it is Just full of lots o naked hotties.

The space rider pfs are not dimpled. I have a template and can dimple for you if you are going to install. Of course I will be happy to tweek and clear them for ya also. The look so beautiful cleared, the colors are bright and deep.

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2 weeks later
#100 3 years ago

So I just got this nos frontier done. It was nos, and pretty nice, so it got the inserts glued, sanded off all of the laquer, painted all of the inserts, and cleared. When I have to use clear to build up to level, its really important to allow each coat to cure. Of course after its done, I sand it level starting with 600, and going up to 3000 wet block sanding. Then polish, then clean out all of the cut outs.

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#101 3 years ago

When it rains it pours.
This just got dropped off for me to start on, just as I finished the last. I have only done 3 frontier pfs in 13 years, and 2 are in the last couple months. If it was a repro, that would be very common.

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#103 3 years ago

Here is a link to a fella using my kit to install a AFM pf

The idea is to use the 11 dremmil bits to remove just enough clear (down to the wood) before you pre drill. then use the glue kit and applicators to run a little glue down the inside of the hole you made in the clear. it will run down and quickly wick in to the wood, then it will wick out, around the hole for a couple mill. this will repair and clear that lifts from your drill, and you will get plenty of that happening with the job you are doing. also use them for the t nuts on the front to remove the clear so the teeth of the t nut go right in, and dont crack the clear. also the pop bumper lug nails/screws.

also stuff like clogged up roll overs. I have a white roll over star with the bottom of the post cut off so I can test every one to make sure its not clogged. Unless you are a guy like bryan kelly or hutch (who do pf swaps all of the time) you will love it. price is 80$ and shipping in the us is $8.

The post above is current and he shows a lot of work with the kit, but there are about 5-10 other threads about it. Use your slow speed with the bits, and it comes with a stone to clean your bits, and a very handy tool to measure, bits, screws, and holes. I love that tool for measuring the width of the screw and then using the drill bit one size smaller.

Just pm me if you want one, for items like this I accept paypal.

cheers, ron kruzman

#104 3 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Hey Ron-
Playfield pics look great as usual.
I know you posted it before, but please tell us about your install kits again.
I think I need one for use with the CPR Sorcerer playfield I just got.
Don't want to mess up their clear around the posts.

I was just reading your post again and I thought of something. I am pretty sure there is a post about some game makers pf's having the star posts sinking in the clear. It may have been regular ball posts. I get frustrated when there are different opinions on what is right, so I avoid them, but it made me think of something.

The clear we use on pfs is not used the way it is designed to be used. The clear I use is made for 2 coats, 3 at the most and only if you screwed the pooch on 2. Yes you can drive your car later that day, but you sure the hell cant screw things down on the paint. Its going to be soft for a couple weeks.

Now imagine is you laid down 5 or 6 thick coats in one or 3 days, which is what happens for production pfs. the bottom coats are sealed in, and are going to take a while to cure. Even longer than the ones on top or if you just did 2 coats. One of the ways I make harder surfaces is take this in to account, and it requires quite a bit of time.

I know there are a million pf experts out here in the pinball world, but it is my opinion that: If you buy a repro pf, especially one from CPR where they ship them out as soon as done, and work on the next title, so they try not to keep a stock which would have time to cure. I highly suggest you let the pf cure in a vented area for at least 3 months. I know you cant always, but keep in mind the longer you let it cure, the harder the surface will be for a heavy metal ball to bounce around on. I have come to this conclusion from trial and error. I am not an expert, though I play one on TV.
So in conclusion if there are more than 2 coats of clear on a pf, and the maker sprayed them in a short peroid of time (less than allowing each set of coats fully cure, then spray on top) its really important to allow it to cure out. as a rule of thumb I pulled 3 months out of my butt. It really depends on the when it was done, what kind of material, how it was applied, how many coats, coats applied over what amount of time, the wood, the weather, a lot of factors.

I was not singling out cpr or anything, I just used them because they do a bunch of work, sell it , and do the next title, which seems to be different than say mirco who has stuff in stock (I am guessing for the sake of the example)

so there it is, and I bumped my thread.

#105 3 years ago

Here are some pics of a nos voltan. It was in better shape than most its age. Usual insert cracks, and a couple scratches and nicks. I didnt realize it until the sander took it right off, but the top laminate was puckered. It was a vertical, long, thin, blister in the wood that was about 3-4" and only about half in wide. Of course it went right thru the woman's brestisis' down in to the script below. I didnt remember to take a pic of it until I was mostly done with the paint work. I avoided painting the entire red area by making the pink shadow a little bigger. A little magic to make it disappear. All of the inserts got painted and they were glued. One of my favorite pfs by one of my favorite pin artists.

I always remember something a dentist said to me. "my best work is never seen" the context was when he does his job well no one notices there was a problem at one time

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#107 3 years ago

I am finishing up a big batch of jobs, all in the next 3-4 weeks, and I have plenty of capacity, so if you have been waiting for a good time to send in your pf, this is one of the rare times when I dont have a big line up. You can contact me for info.
I am not sure if I have mentioned it on here before, but if you have a rare pf that you are worried about shiping, or you dont have the materials to ship your pf, I can send a shipping crate, with the packing, and all you have to do is drop it in, and you need a power screw driver to screw down the lid of the crate. There are about 15 screws. so far in 13 years , not one pf has ever been damaged in one of the crates.

enjoy the day, and thanks to all who support my work. I am very thankful for the opportunity.
cheers, rk

#108 3 years ago

So here is a example of why I let new repro pfs sit for a couple months before I clear them. This one was pretty smooth except you could feel the inserts, which is no big whoop. In the 6 weeks it has been here, the clear is sinking down in to the grain of the wood. This could be because of what ever leveler/primer they use before clear, or it could be from a production clear where all of the coats are done in one week or less. I dont really know.
I dont see it as a defect or anything. Its just new repro pfs. some companies have more of this effect than others, but it effects all of them, and it happened to the nos when they were made
I took these pics Saturday because I was about to sand it, to allow it cure for another 4 weeks or so. may as well get off 3/4 of the clear, less to cure. Its logical to assume that is will finish curing faster, if I remove most of the clear. I will still have to sand it again before I clear. If I was to clear it without leveling the inserts, they would look forever be sunk. If I was to clear it with this kind of surface texture (if the surface was not glossy, then the grain effect would forever be in the clear)

Many times this happens to such an extreme, that to sand the inserts level, I get down in to the paint all day long, because the inserts are so low. Different pf titles, different runs are all different amounts of this effect. The original playboy (cpr) had hardly any wood grain, insert change from the day it came till a year later. FT is a title that really has issue with this effect.

I have found in my dealings with pfs, each has its own attitude. I do my best on every job. some want to work with me, some are bastards. The good thing is it can all get fixed. Its just a matter of time and money.

some people send me the pf and allow it to cure here, some let it cure at home. Take it out of the box, and if possible, store in a place with the air circulating. I repeat, GET IT OUT OF THE BOX please.

If you have any topics you want an opinion explained in detail, send me a pm. That is why I posted this.

play some pinball, rk

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#110 3 years ago

THANK YOU!!!. I wish Wade would re-run that title. I am a huge fan of that game. I have sellers remorse. I bought my wizard that had been all gone thru by a lost lumber jack. It was too nice to restore. I had it for a couple years and as usual had to sell it for I forget, hookers or tires for the van. machines are my savings acct.

On my wizard, I installed a stronger coil only on the right flipper because they had a hard time to make the shot that goes to the top and around. It was on clay's thread or site. it made the game so much more fun. I am sure the clearcoat would be better for making less friction for ball travel.
If you haven't played a wide body with a cleared pf that has been sanded level and polished out (not just sprayed, because that has orange peal to some or more extent) you should see how it livens up the game. most wide pf's have a big empty space in the middle for the ball to slow down. In my opinion TZ and paragon are the 2 games a cleared polished pf makes the biggest difference for speeding up the ball play.

Thank you for the support larry

#111 3 years ago

So this beautiful Night Rider belongs to a guy named ken white out in sunny CA. Him and his father do some amazing restorations and I am always glad to be involved. Besides the quality of work they do, I dig it that they mostly do games from the early SS era (mostly bally I believe.)

This pf had a lacquer or varnish that had a serious brown tint to it. I sanded it right to the ink, and on the center area like the truck trailers and the logo I painted a brighter white. Not straight white so it looks out of place, just much brighter. I reset about 6 inserts, reglued all of the rest, painted them all. There are 2 factory or previous owner touch up spots in dark blue. they are not worth repainting that whole area so I left them. I did some color repaint besides white but I dont think you will find it. The back is gloss oil paint to seal out moisture and wipe off finger prints.

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1 week later
#112 3 years ago

Its been a very non profitable week here. My old spray gun (the one I like, I have several and they are super expensive $200-500 and I like the cheapest one) finally died and I bought a new fancy expensive one from japan. I am having a hell of a time getting it dialed in, so I replaced all of the filters (5), and gutted my spray room, built new walls, new tables. helped a little. Today I am buying new bigger air hose, and connectors. I am going to move up to 1/2 rather than 3/8. So its been super frustrating because I know everyone wants their pfs. Anyway I will get it figured out but I am not going to spray any more until it does.
Stupid expensive gun. If I could I would return it and buy another 129 rig and use that.

I also got a chance to build some crates, as well as some custom crates for bg's and for paragon (huge). One of the pics is of the insulation boards of different thickness that I use for the packing. SO expensive. Its about 12 bucks for a sheet that gets cut in to 4. News flash: everything is expensive!

I sometimes forget to thank everyone for their support. Sometimes people are so cool when they send me the payment they will round it up, or last week someone sent me a set of plastics for a game I am going to restore. When I watch the news, I think to my self, "man the world sucks" But surprisingly often, my customers can be really kind. I will say it helps me get out of bed in the morning.

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#115 3 years ago

Thanks guys, appreciate it.
here is a link to a fella here on pinside doing a swap on a AFM. I really like his work and there is a lot of helpful info in there if you ever get time to read it. It takes a bunch of time to take pics and upload and write explanations, plus opening yourself up to criticism, so I appreciate the effort. Plus the pf and install kit are super cool. ha

#118 3 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Ron have you ever done any Allied Leisure cocktail pinballs? Working on my eros one restore and whatever they used is brushed on, and also it gets cloudy when I used naptha on it to try and clean and it got cloudy so had to buff that out. Trying to figure out what they used and if it would react with automotive clear

I actually havent owned one or worked on one, so I am not positive about anything. I think it would be worth starting a thread if anyone has any experience doing one. of course there will be lots of opinions, but actual experience. I am told that vid has thousands of posts on restoring pfs. I havent looked at it, but there may be something in there.
Feel free to ask me if you come across any more questions in trying to figure it out, and please post your findings here if you do get a straight forward answer, if you could.
cheers, ron

#119 3 years ago
Quoted from jboner1058:

Ron have you ever done any Allied Leisure cocktail pinballs? Working on my eros one restore and whatever they used is brushed on, and also it gets cloudy when I used naptha on it to try and clean and it got cloudy so had to buff that out. Trying to figure out what they used and if it would react with automotive clear

I remembered something concerning this question last night while watching Jeopardy. if you are unsure of the material on the pf and you are going to clear, do your regular sanding, and dewax, and then do one or 2 "dust coats" I have learned to do this on uncleared cpr pfs, after melting the red inserts and wrecking a BK.
Its what painters do with a surface they cant sand, so I think it will work with this as long as you prep well.
good luck.

#120 3 years ago

Steve Pandol (i think he is in PA) has a GLOBETROTTERS for sale. Its a cpr bronze, and he would like to get rid of it. since mine is sold I figured I would try to help him out. you can contact him at [email protected]
He is on here, but I forget people alias's.
He is a good guy and wont screw you around.

#124 3 years ago
Quoted from Bulldozer:

Hello Kruzman,
I was wondering if you could offer some coaching/advice on how to have an auto shop CC a playfield?
I realize it will not be as good as having you (Kruzman) do it, but shipping a PF to you from Sweden is probably going to drive up costs to much for me.
The PF in question is a NOS Stern F2K with, what I can see no Planking but some cupped inserts.
What should I tell the auto shop to do to apply CC to the playfield so it levels out and is protected for future generations?
/BD[quoted image]

Well this is a good question to have in the archives. I am sure others have answered it, but everyone has an opinion. I also like flight 2k, so I will give you my opinion.
Auto body guys are awesome at what they do, but the only thing in common with their job and pinball is the material used. process is so different!
They paint metal and plastic, but not metal with plastic in the middle of it without a seam dividing. When I spray a car, I spray 2 or 3 coats of clear in one day, and if there are no problems that is the end of it.

ok well to get down to it, the biggest thing is most of the time body shops want to dust it then paint it. It is so important that you sand that pf level. you have to get out the wood grain as well as level the inserts. When you start sanding you will see the gloss parts remain after sanding, they are the low spots. You will be amazed when you run a sander over it and see how level that pf is not. My process is apply 2 coats at a time, allow 15 days cure, and repeat. before recoating you have to sand. Not only for the clear to grab, but to level. Dont forget hand sanding the low points and the edges of the cut holes. this takes me at least 25 min besides the full sand with the sander. if you dont sand the low spots like the dimpled areas and edges of holes they will break, chip, lift, everything bad. After the last coats I sand the entire pf level, then I progress in grit from 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000. Then I polish. I have that process down to a full long day. (then you need to clean the compound out of the cut out holes' edges.

I am not just pedaling my wears. I highly recommend my install kit for when you install! it eliminates lifting, chipping, and all of that, and it repairs lifting (ghosting) which you will have plenty enough around the edges of your inserts if you dont sand the wood and insert level. I think the shipping would be about 25-30 bucks, not sure.

You may want to explain to your body painter that you want a clear that is durable for a ball rolling over it

So I hole that helps. Now that I explained my secret process, I expect to be out of biz soon, so I am going to submit my app to the nearest fast food restaurant.

#130 3 years ago
Quoted from pinheadpierre:

First - so awesome of you to respond and give good advice. Looking at the photo of that F2K, some of the inserts look pretty severely cupped. In order to level that playfield, would you also need to drip clear into the cupped inserts and then sand level with the surrounding surface followed by any needed touch ups and final clear layers? I’m no expert but dripping clear into cupped inserts is something I usually do after the first lockdown coat has cured. What would you do?

Correct on those very cupped inserts, and your explanation of dealing with it is exactly what I recommend. I ouldnt explain it any better I dont think without step by step directions, but that is exactly how I would deal with inserts that cupped. I dont think its possible to sand that pf without having to paint around the inserts because of the edges of the inserts, and the edge of the wood and where they are suppose to be flush. I always reef on the sander on the inserts because I would want to paint them anyway since there is the crack around them. also, they are almost 40 which means if you clear that pf without glueing those inserts, it wont be long at all before the clear starts ghosting from loose inserts. It goes on and on. I am serious I spend all of 40 hours in these pfs without the paint work. at least its dimpled.

1 week later
#131 3 years ago

I usually bring a pf or 2 to J dayhuffs party (next weekend) and I stash it in J.D.'s office for people to check out, on his desk or file cab. Not sure which I will being this year. I think I brought the amazing spiderman last year. It depends on what gets done between now and then.
If there are any pfs on my list at the start of this post, that you may be interested in, I can bring them to the party for you to look at, or buy. Saves the stress of shipping.
If you are going to Johns party for the first time this year prepare to have your mind blown!

#133 3 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I shot you a separate email about a Gottlieb Hot Shot (1973). The pf was covered in operator installed mylar. It came off relatively well with almost no paint removal from the center rack of balls or the drop target balls. The women on the right side of the pf lost a lot of paint - especially after light sanding. The middle of her body and part of her face is missing. There is slight planking at the return and at the top of the rollovers and the inserts are cupped.
I would really like to restore this to a nice pf to put in my working Hot Shot. I thought it might be a good project for me to learn on - also open to sending it to your or someone else. My question is what is the best way to restore the women on the right side of the pf? Do your repaint the figure or create a decal of some sort? The other missing paint on the pf I think can be airbrushed without much problem - assuming I can match the paint

Hi robert without pics, I really have no idea on advice, but generally speaking, I would take 6 months (it may take much less) and find a nos or used pf that is in much better condition. when the wear is the womans face, (like I said I dont know what it looks like) you may have a hard time painting it. working on a unlevel surface is not as easy as a stretched canvas. matching colors that are over 30 years old is about impossible, so you will want to paint the entire thing, when you lay down a color. It goes on and on. My point is this sounds like a full restoration repaint. I also dont like airbrush work except for doing large background areas like under the arch or apron, so, I just dont have much help for you on this one.

#135 3 years ago

Ok so you have a second pf. Thats is the way I do it. Now I understand a little better. one suggestion, is check all of the inserts. the loose ones, you should pull and reset. The inserts that feel tight, you should still glue in place from behind.

The way I do repaint on older pfs like this, is when you match a color, paint all of that color in that area, and dont forget the clear will make it deeper.
I have used your trace paper idea before, just to apply dots to the edges of the outside of a color, on the pf you are painting.
Lastly get your surface as flat as possible!!!
Dont be afraid to re do something.

I spent the weekend doing the final sand and polish on a nos Taf pf. The worst part is I cant see the flaws in the clear until I get the finish so polished at the very end. if i just polished it good enough, they would never show, but in this case, a little bit of compound caked outside a cut out. The wheel got too much compound on it, and it hits the hole and then at the far side of the hole it deposits some compound that I didnt see, and continued to run the wheel. then it is all done, and I see the caked bits of compound (About 3 of them each about 3 mm) and they stand a little higher than the rest of the surface because the caked material stopped the buffer wheel from hitting that small area and it is a bit higher, so if you look at the right angle, there it is. This sucks so bad because this pf is amazing. so beautiful and today I have to sand the area starting at 1000, 1200, 1500, then wet block 2 and 3 grand. Then I have to go thru the 5 polishes and 5 buffer heads and blend it with the rest of the pf and prey I dont burn anything or make any mistakes. This is easily a half days work of sucksville. So today I am trying to stay positive, but I gotta get out there. If you are the owner of this pf please contact me, I cant find our correspondence. your name is on your crate, I just havent been out there today.
Livin the dream!! I wanna thank everyone for their support.

#136 3 years ago

Ken white in CA has a nos SPY HUNTER that I perfected and cleared, for sale. He is not going to use it. He also has a stock wade krauss sky jump for sale.
He is a very reasonable guy and his email is
[email protected]
you can contact him for price and info. I am doing this as a favor.

#138 3 years ago

If you want an amazing nos pf my buddy Ken White has a spy hunter I tweeked and cleared for him. he sold his game and is selling the pf at a large loss at 850. Its listed here on pinside. For that price hang it on the wall. If I get some cash flow I will buy it.

1 week later
#140 3 years ago

wow that elviria is so beautiful!! the resto looks awesome, with the lock down receiver, and new decals. Maybe some day if you need a roof or lawyers, you can sell it to me. (lets hope not)

#141 3 years ago

I am thinking about changing the name of my operation to

That show is better than ever, though I can think of a lot of folks that wouldnt think its funny at all

#144 3 years ago

I finished a NOS TAF and a cpr elviria. Both came out so nice. Both amazing colors by the original designers. The elviria really stands out Deep contrasting colors, great art!

Some people dont know this, but I am happy to trade and barter (are they the same?) of course plus and minus cash. Things are rarely equil.
For example I just traded 4-5 jobs for a bunch of the geiger kits where you get a pf, bg, and plastics to make a game like matta hari, glotrotters, and Kiss, in to a new game with the "pretty pinball girls in space" that became almost extinct once ron and nancy and meese came in to office. I am going to do the lady death conversion, which is a matta hari conversion. Its the only one I have the pf , bg and plastics for. The KISS/MISS world is the best by far because of the art work, but I cant afford a kiss game.

They are not on my list above but I do have Space rider and miss world pf's for sale. The Miss world needs just a bit of black paint work at the top, otherwise all of these are in amazing condition. BGR is working on or has the back glasses for them, and tommy is working on the plastic sets. CPR has the back glass for miss world on their web site, but it says they made it so it cant be used. I am wondering if it can be worked on to work in a game. that bg is amazing!!!!!

OOps I accidently included a pic of my dream truck, "doug" Thats right, a 7.3 litre powerstroke (my girlfirend thinks that is halirous and perfect for me), with the new mini van in the back ground. Shout out to dave in Imlay city for hooking me up that that new pin hauler. My sister had the same year with sto and go seats and J.D and I got 3 games in there after expo. As for the 1996 f250. well thats for charming the ladies

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#145 3 years ago

Maybe someone cane help with this problem. My computer used to highlight spelling errors as I composed. For some reason it stopped. Its old. so on my email there is an icon at the top of the page for spell check. There is not one here. is there a command like; "control " I can do, so I have spell check again? I am realizing that everything I post gets saved for ever, and I would like to take care of my spelling issues. so if you know, and you have a moment, please send me a pm, and I will be so grateful.
cheers, ron

#147 3 years ago

My man Jim. Thank you for the help!!!

1 week later
#148 3 years ago

So this is a completed Williams Alien Poker that I would love to throw in my game, but it is owned by a customer. I really like the company who made this pf. They are german and made the bride and f14 repro pfs. It didnt fight or resist, though it did get an extra 2 coats. It came out perfect. love it. you can see the reflections, one is a tree in the clear. Notice how un-distorted i is. That is the result of my least favorite job. wet block sanding

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#149 3 years ago

Its possible that the aliens in this game influenced the guys who made Rick and Morty

#150 3 years ago

Here is that night Rider being installed by mr white.
Looks pretty darn nice

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1 week later
#151 3 years ago

Hopefully this thread is still relevant: I have a customer looking for a NOS dolly pf for a restoration. Of course I will get a clear job out of it!
anyway PM me if you have one or know of one.

#153 2 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

Does that mean you would do a clear job on a Dolly IF I guy had one? Hahaha. I’m gonna have to ask you again another time after some beers.

I think I go thru phases. At one point I got really tired of ballys (especially paragons) because I was getting a lot of them, and they have their own charm, or you could call them issues, that are time consuming. Then I do 6 months of repro pfs, and I am ready for some nos old stuff. How was it my mother used to say it so eloquently ? oh yea, "Boy. you are like a fart in the wind".

#154 2 years ago

Here is another Alice cooper I have finished that is going in to a new game. there is a cool mini pf that I have all ready sent back to spooky. I have really fallen for the art on this pf. It would be a god wall hanger for sure!!!
I am finally getting back on track, and up to pace with the jobs. Everything was delayed because of roof damage this year, and the whole spray room had to be rebuilt, then dialed in. Plus a new supplier for my clear. same manufacturer, but a supplier who can get materials that are newer than 2 years old!!!!

LASTLY: I want to mention that I have a cpr TAF pf almost done, that is for sale. I am waiting for it to be purchased before I do the last set of coats and block and polish. PM me if you are interested.

Also if you have any nos pf's to sell or trade, drop me a PM
AS always thanks to everyone for the support. I really appreciate being able to do this for a living!

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#155 2 years ago

Here is an amazing deal on a ww pf. If you are planning to do one in the future, and the little issues in the clear dont bother you, this is your chance to save about 700 bucks!!

#157 2 years ago
Quoted from SergioJ:

Hey Ron, long shot, I’ve got a NOS Dolly but it would be for trade only, looking for a NOS Cheetah. Figured I’d throw it out there if it would work....

Hi sergio, I am willing to make a trade on any of the pfs I have in stock, but those old stern pf's in nos, are as rare as chicken teeth. Take a look at what I have, or maybe a clear job to put toward that dolly. If I didnt do this for my living, and could save my money instead of pissing it away, I would only trade my nos pfs (like you).

#158 2 years ago

I thought I would share this. I will preface it with the fact that I got my first pin when I was 14 (my dad helped) and it was my dream to own an arcade. When I got older I wanted to be an operator since arcades seem to fail so often. The draw to weighing a 5 gal bucket of quarters, is always been my dream.

I have a good friend named Chris Travis (rock pinball). I dont know how it came to be, and I am sure its a interesting story, but he got the opportunity to open an arcade above a new restaurant in a small town called Wayland. (little 2 or 3 light town). The upstairs is a big open room the size of the restaurant below, so he divided it with tall black curtains on a cable, and with the help of a couple local friends who have games to add to his, plus he bought some vids, Chris did my dream and opened an arcade.
So I went up there this weekend to check it out. I figured since its such a small town and the restaurant is just finished being built, no signage, that no one would even know he had the games up there. In my mind, that still within my dream. I got there and there were 2 families in the restaurant, and there were 2 kids upstairs. So I figured since he prob wasnt making any quarters at all, I would donate mine to the earthshaker. It played awesome and I got my name on it. while I was playing, a group of 4 little kids came up and started dropping quarters. Half of them didnt know how to play the games, and one kid was about 9 and was amazing at the basket ball game where you throw the small balls in the hoop. Chris came up to play a couple games with me, and give me some Quarters (thank you by the way), and he checked his coin boxes, and since everything chris travis touches turns to gold, of course there was a bunch of coins in there. I was super impressed and super happy for him. This guy never just talks about ideas. He often comes up with an idea, and gives it a shot, win or loose and he usually wins, all while working 55 hours a week at a regular jobie job. So the video games do much better than the pins, (most of the little kids had never seen a pin, or thats what it looked like since he could get 45 baskets in 30 sec, but tried to climb on the pin as if that was what you do with it. He didn't know the shooter was to launch the ball) and of course the claw game that grabs candy is the best quarter maker.
So this weekend I was reminded that nothing ventured nothing gained, or however that goes. It was really inspiring, and maybe some day I will get a game on route. Next time I need to bump this thread I will write about my great idea to put my GnR pin in a tattoo shop, and how I just agout got thrown out for insulting the owner. After all" its an art studio not an arcade!!!"

Ok back to the coal mine.

#159 2 years ago

I always forget to take before pics. In this case i took 3 lousy pics (they are on the page before this, so take a look before looking at these pics) because this pf was in bad shape. it was stored upside down on cement, so the top 8-10 in were flaking off the wood if you ran your hand across it. There was a scratch from the top eagle on the upper right all the way down about 4 in below the grass his boots are in. all of the inserts got reglued, and I had to sand off all of the laquer all the way down in the lowest part of the wood grain. I had to paint the key lines around every insert. There is a couple places I would like to fix that have a little planking but I have 14 hours in to this all ready. I havent talked to the customer for the ok on stuff that is not essential.
I sprayed one thin coat down to lock it in and see what it looks like, so before you say anything about the clear.
Anyway I am not big on pics of work in progress, but I am trying to keep this thread updated

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#160 2 years ago

here is a close up

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#162 2 years ago
Quoted from Ballypalooza:

Here’s a few close ups of my playfield before Ron laid his hands on it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you for posting them.
One of the best parts of my job is that people dont tell me all of the stuff they want me to do to the pf. For the most part folks just want me to "do it" and know that I will do my best.
This is the second frontier I have done since summer and the art has really grown on me. I have actually never played the game, but this era of bally is my fav by far.
I Just checked the book and 80-81 were amazing years for bally. It looks like in 1980 they produced about 67000 units if you include future spa. Frontier is the lowest production at 1850, and hot dogin at 2050. That is super rare since the other titles were about 7000 units average in 1980. I had a beautiful hot doggin and I didnt realize how rare they were. Here it comes the ol sellers remorse.
In 1981 Bally made the perfect Trifecta: FATHOM/MEDUSA/CENTAUR. Plus EBD had come out a couple months before. It looks like, by the numbers, they were goin for bankruptcy in the end of 84. I can only imagine a pic of the factory production- floor in 79-80 and then in 85-85. There must have been a lot of lay offs.
So in 1986 we would go to Pinball Petes, which was right off MSU campus (at Frandor I think, if anyone was in the area at the time) and I would get the Pins to my self, with ridicule from my friends who really looked down at pinball machines. The way I picture it in my memory is 1980's frat boys with revo sunglasses and collars up, on their pastel polo shirts playing video games, and pinball was left for the burners. I was one of the few burn-out rockers in college in the 80's.
In 1991 I moved to Venice Ca and things were a lot different than the Michigan scene. This is one of the few countries in the world (that I have been to) that has such a HUGE variety of cultures, almost completely independent of each other, because of the size of the country I think.
I will keep it to playfields

1 week later
#164 2 years ago

One of the easy ways to tell a pf is an IPB is if you see rubbing compound in the edges of cutouts. often its covered by clear. Its hard to miss.
Most all of his Scared stiffs have issues with the black screen not being sharp and full, and often you will find some small amount of touch up. Once you find it, you will notice its not too good. Thats an IPB. Plus i know the feel of the clear. I like IPB beter than others in some cases. Its a case by case situation depending on which title and run.
Happy New Year!

#168 2 years ago

Do you think it could be done for the kzoo or ohio show? That may be a reason for me to go to the ohio show its been like 4 years.
A beautiful narcissistic dream would be a kruzman section at the kzoo show, with games with my pfs.

1 week later
#170 2 years ago

I wanted to post some pics of a run of the mill, or typical job. Its clearing a cpr centaur, and the pics show that you get what you pay for. I get emails all of the time from people that tell me they are just going to have a body shop clear their pf after hours for only 100 bucks. For this example I am going to completely set aside how bad that pf will look after 100 games. This is to show what I do on repro pf that the manufacture say it is perfect,gold, whatever, and that its better than the one you have in your game now. (the second part is usually true but absurd).

So this is what I mean when I say tighten up the inserts. Its caused by the screens not being lined up, and when you see a wood sliver on the side of an insert, its from the art not being set in the right place on the board. Also my pet peeve which is cracks around inserts.
I would agree that the flaws on this pf are not necessarily enough to pay to have it done, but if you want your clear to look amazing the day its installed, as well as 15 years down the line, then it makes very much sense to have it cleared, and in for a penny, in for a pound. On stuff like this, I wont clear a pf without doing it. I wont clear a pf with cracks around inserts or flaws. We have to fix that stuff first

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#171 2 years ago

Here are some pics after I painted the inserts, and matched the black. I still have to build up the clear, and level and all that jazz, so it is not a finished job. I still have not proofed the art to make sure its good 'nuff.

I am finishing 6 pfs in the next 2 weeks, so watch for pics to come. I have 3, done in the living room, waiting too clean the holes and cut-outs while I watch cartoons (It takes over an hour to thread a towel thru the holes, big and 1/8 th inch).
A nos champ pub, and a mirco BSD, and a cpr Firepower. The look amazing, the black of the firepower shows off the clear quality. BTW if you have a cpr firepower, you need to re-glue the inserts before clearing. You can more than likely see several with cracks around them thru the clear. Now days, when in doubt (mostly on nos pf's) I reglue them. Its only 2 hours, and if they get loose under a clear coat, that pf is garbage. I hope to finish a NOS afm next week that needed drilling and dimpling. I noticed every insert had cracks around it. usually its just the big ones, and usually I do it for the pfs that are around 30 years old, but now I am taking no chances when its only a 75$ service.

So watch for pics of finished jobs to come (its about time).

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#172 2 years ago

The red, "special" insert will get painted

#173 2 years ago

so I started working on a quicksilver repro pf, and I saw something that always makes me giggle like a little girl. It makes me think about how its so common to show nude womens' brestesis, but rarely the male member. This reminds me of every time I got a chance to deface someones text book cover, back in elementary school

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#176 2 years ago

That centaur belongs to Mr tom.
2 games that when restored, look better than new out of the box (there may be more)
Centaur and funhouse. Both look so clean and amazing, both great art, and both play like there is a 4th dimension with one of my pfs

#178 2 years ago

crap I didnt take pics of the before sanding, and it would be good to show that the clear was so thin you could feel the layers of colors. If it is too cold to get the spray room above 75, I need to get the small amount of black touch up done on that pf.

My job is feast or famine. when the pfs are done I bring them in the main house and put them against the wall in the living room, and I am out of wall room with hopefully 4 more pfs getting completed this week. If my worst problem is no room to lean complete jobs then my world is OK

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#183 2 years ago

Can anyone guess the game on the right? (dont answer if you have been here)
I do this with pics often. I try to figure out the games in the background.

Also I found out that Spooky is doing a rick and morty pin!! That is one of my favorite shows. There is so much potential being its animation and sci fi. I am suppose to be getting a couple of the pfs to clear for installation any day now. Its pretty cool of spooky to let folks get their pfs cleared by me before installation. If you are interested in getting one of my pfs in your game, you can talk to Kayte at spooky or email me

1 week later
#185 2 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Frandor location was in Lansing.
East Lansing is right off MSU campus.

OK I havent been to east lansing in about 20 years. I was there to see Henry Rollins speak, and I hadn't been there in years, then.
Back in 1987 not 86 as I mentioned a couple weeks ago in my post and I believe grand river was the main drag, and I thought frandor was about 2 miles, from campus, west, (maybe) right before you got to the high way.It may have been a place I incorrectly thought was frandor. If I am correct that it was west of campus then it was on the north side of the split 2 lane road. If that was not Frandor, it is where I liked to play pinball.

Thank you for the bump. Everyone is welcome to post any posts or questions about pfs or pinball, or as in this case pinball location history.

#186 2 years ago

So this was a swing and a miss. Its a customers sorcerer repro, that has aprox 3 inches of twist. Now that I did it (and learned) I would do it different.
I may use some 3/4 in plywood I have laying around that will possibly straighten out the frame, and take the pf with it, by cutting it to fit the pic frame I built, and screwing it right on top of it. hopefully the thickness of the plywood will stop it from twisting
The owner is very resourceful and may make a steel bracket, but in the mean time I am afraid to clear it all twisted, because when he straightens it out, it could pop the clear, since the twist is so extreme.
I deal with warps all of the time,which are generally not a problem at all, and usually I can fix them with gravity in a week or so. The same customer sent a medusa that has such a smile-warp, that the clear is beginning to get strange in the center of the smile, so I have it braced at a 45 deg angle with several pfs on top of it. If gravity wont do my job, then I will use some braces screwed to the back. I just reluctantly threw away like 30 pieces of side rail that have been collecting dust for 10 years or longer, and within 3 months I needed them. Duho!

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#187 2 years ago

So good news if you are in the West michigan area, or ever travel there my buddy Ryan Thompson is opening a Pinball Game room in Rockford MI which is Grand Rapids as far as I am concerned. Opening day is this Saturday 10 am to 10 PM. the address is
Pinball Land
114 courtland st
rockford MI

If you want info go to:
[email protected]

Here is a pic, he is just getting started, so its a good thing to support people who are investing in pinball in all ways, from your trusty playfield advocate to guys who design, or folks who make mods, and of course people who sell and route games. I wouldn't do my laundry there, but every time I am in kalamazoo I go to the coin op laundry to drop some quarters in his pinball machine. I try to build up some credits to leave for the kids who are bored out of their skulls but dont know what pinball is all about, and dont have the coin.

Anyway Ryan Has been working on this place for a couple months, and it really looks nice, and there is a great line up considering he is just starting.

He has kindly offered a space on his wall for me to hang a couple pfs, and I am trying to get up there, hopefully Sat.

I am not in grand rapids, but there used to be a comic book place that was east of 131 but I forgot what road. Does anyone know where that is and if they are still going with the machines. I know they belonged to the owner at the time. I dont leave the compound much so I dont know if they are still there.

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#189 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Just getting ready to start my Sorcerer playfield swap and noticed that my CPR repro has a visible twist. Not as bad as that one, but it's there. I'm hoping the siderails straighten it out.

Looks cool. Is Chris part of this?

Generally the side rails will straighten it out, but if they dont, the heavy parts will. This one is twisted enough I just am covering my sweet ass. I doubt it will be a prob with the parts. They made the games, and the way the pf's sit, knowing that the plywood would have plywood issues.

Chris is not part of this one. 2 people with similar dreams at the same time. How about that?

#191 2 years ago

Here is a letter I wrote to reply to someone who wrote me asking how I do the pop bumper lugs on a clearcoated pf. I understand it is terrifying to mes up a beautifully cleared pf. The pop lugs are one of the first things you do, and if you have a problem with them, you may not want to continue. Like I said in the letter, my install kit was a result of me freaking out about cracking clear coat with these and t nuts. I didn't post the question because I would never post someones email. I have really strong feelings about that because a lot of people will do just that and it is very wrong.

I realize there are guys who do total "How to" explanations of populating a pf, but lets just assume that I haven't read any of those... because I have not.

So by posting this, I can refer to it next time I am asked the same question, and maybe pimp a install kit or 2

Good Morning . Those things (bastards) are what I call lugs, because I dont know what they are called. I designed my install kit around and because of them. You will totally screw up your pf if not careful. forgive me if I forget, but do you have one of my install kits? hopefully so like I said they are a result of those lugs. here is the procedure i have refined.
First thing take your time and do the first pop (3) and after you have a working system, then do them all at once. I do them first thing on the job so I can do them on the bench rather than roticery (as well as t nuts) I put the pf on some 2x4's so they are right under the pop area, but the nail can still go thru. I use the Bit from the install kit that is the big one that is curved at the top or the big round one, and I carefully remove all of the clear out of the counter sunk hole. If your pf dosen't have a counter sunk hole, remove the clear then drill the counter sink.
after all of the clear is removed, use the measuring tool included for the size of the nail shaft, and use a drill bit that size or a hair thicker, and predrill. then use your glue kit and drip a drop of glue on the top rim of each side of the counter sunk hole. This will lock the new edge of the clear down to the wood. the glue will immediately soak/wick under the clear around the edges.
Now that you can slide the nail thru the hole without pounding, check if the nail is the type with fins or the type with a collar of points. if it is the collar of points, then use the measuring tool in the kit to pick a drill bit a size smaller that the collar, and predrill about 1 cm.

Now put your nail in, and I use my finish nail set, if you dont have one a 16 penny nail will do, and put it in the center of the head and tap with hammer until you knock it down to the level you want. I do this on the bench with 2x4's under to support, but with just enough room for the nail to go thru. tap it down till it is where you want it. i like them flush with the clear or a hair higher. Thats it.

If you don't have my install kit, I wouldn't do it till you get one. Its 80 bucks plus ship.
same as with t nuts on the top side. use the flat top bit to remove all of the clear out of the countersunk hole, use the glue applicator on each side's edge, and let it run down to the wood. Mt nail set it thick enough that it goes about a cm in to the t nut but doesnt bother the threads, and with the 2x4's under I wack about 2 or 3 times.

Until I figured out the pop lugs and built the kit I wrecked a couple clear coats because I pounded the nails in to the clear, and it chipped cracked, didnt look good. Plus my clear is so hard the t nuts wont go thru it (they have dull teeth).

Hope this works. if it helps a lot let me know and I may put it up on the pinside thread.
take your time, ron

#193 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Hey Ron-
For the QS playfield, there is a 1/2" hole missing at the bottom on the repro's. In case you haven't already discovered the issue, I've detailed it here:
I'd hate to have you clear the pf, and then have to cut a hole in your beautiful work.

wow, Thanks a million for the heads up. I laid 2 coats last night, but I really said the first set, so I will be able to make the adjustment. I will check out your info, and i cant say thanks enough.!!!!!

#195 2 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Hey Ron-
For the QS playfield, there is a 1/2" hole missing at the bottom on the repro's. In case you haven't already discovered the issue, I've detailed it here:
I'd hate to have you clear the pf, and then have to cut a hole in your beautiful work.

I just read thru the entire thread on this quick silver install documentation. Since you have done a couple of them, you are getting so good at documenting the work. Since you are doing it to the highest standard, it leaves room for folks to pick and choose, but man, talk about helpful. This will be a great template for someone who is going to do one, (and it sounds like you have a bunch of people who are going to)

I highly recommend reading this thread as it progresses to start digesting the info if you are a soon to be beginner or amateur (as for installations I am right there in the middle of the two, leaning toward beginner. Unfortunately I need to work 6 days a week at my jobie job to make the bills so I dint have much time to expand my self in these opportunities. But life is long).