(Topic ID: 243533)

KRUZMAN monthly playfield thread

By kruzman

2 years ago


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#551 11 months ago

Here are the pics of the ij with the sparkled inserts. on the first pics I was trying to show the reflection and how undistorted it is, and sharp

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#552 11 months ago

you can see the light was warming up. On the 3rd pic its all the way lit

#553 11 months ago

Whoa! That looks sick Ron!

#554 11 months ago

That bulb looks like a hologram coming out of the playfield. Crazy work!!

#555 11 months ago

The first Idea I had was to balance a quarter on the pf so you could see how defined the reflection is, but I couldnt get it to stand. Then I tried a pack of smokes, and then I thought, well some folks get really crazy about stuff that was in a smokers possession.

I did forget to say that one of the things I do on all pfs is remove all of the clear out of the t nut holes before the last coat. I get a lot of pfs in here with a lot of clear in those holes, and if I didnt do this, the teeth of the t nut are going to want to bend, or the clear may crack, I can only imagine a clearcoater who dosent address this. The pf comes with clear in the t nut hole to start with, then he sprays however many coats he sprays. combined that is a buttload of clear

On the mirco pfs now, he does the clear first and then the cutting and cnc work. This makes for sharp enough edges to cut your finger. With the edge of the clear getting cut to have a sharp edge like that, I can only imagine how fast it is going to chip away.
So on the mircos, I have to spend a lot more time sanding that edge round. Also I make sure to shoot the clear sideways as well as the regular down-shot. With the sanding I am doing and the side shot, it gets the clear to wrap around the 90 deg edge, and lock down on the inside of the cut out. Its hard to describe, but my point is, I am thinking of how it will wear in the future, not the look before installation. (contrary to the pics above). I dont like to openly explain my process that I constantly try to improve, because I feel like it will be easy for folks to just copy what I do, but in the years I have realized that most of my improvements, hinge on extra work, and time. For some reason most of the stuff is not copied.

Yesterday I looked at a used pf that was restored by someone who has been doing it longer than me, and the first thing I noticed was the caked rubbing compound on all of the edges of the cut outs. It takes about an hour to thread a rag thru all of the holes, and it is sucky work, but it has to be done. In my second year of doing pfs I was at a show and I was showing my work all lined up against the wall. A little further down the wall another vendor had a bunch of nos pfs lined up for sale, and I saw what really stood out, once I saw them side by side, and realized I had to add cleaning the holes to my process.

#556 11 months ago

I forgot, Ron -
Do you try to stick to just clearcoat and dimpling work? You try to stay away from PFs that may need inserts touched up or artwork patched, right? How do you determine if a PF is worthy of your touch, or if you'd rather pass?

#557 11 months ago

I miss doing restorations, I miss the challenge, and the reward, but it bankrupted me. So I dont mind doing repros and nos stuff that need a lot of work, like the old ballys, or sterns. look a couple pages back at the frontier, flight 2k and dolly. And the Tommy. It adds a good month to the job because I only paint when I am in a creative mood, and not stressed out because I am so behind. So as long as it is an unused pf, and the owner is not in a hurry, I almost always take the job. With used pfs they will look good populated or even stripped but when I sand off all of the finish, it takes down all the high points, as well as around the inserts that are high or low, and that causes a lot of paint work. So what I am saying is a used pf that looks awesome will be a lot more work than it looks like, since I have to make them ugly before fixing them up. So I just cant get started on the used ones again.

I have been saying that all nos pfs from 82 and older, we need to reglue the inserts, which is 100$, but looking at some of the sys 11 and early dmd games, I am starting to wonder on those. The glue made for a 30 years life.

#558 11 months ago

Huh. Interesting to hear. It makes sense logically, as I am familiar with those indentations that the mounted things (posts, metal guides, etc) all press into the wood. And with the amount of repros out there now, some of the older games I understand it's just better to go the repro route.

It's why I did NOT decide to get my original Meteor PF restored - the time and effort (and $) would have outweighed the issues with the CPR field.

#559 11 months ago


Quoted from kruzman:That was good for a laugh this morning.
I am the same way about finding something really nice to fixate on. For the last couple of years when it comes to games, its is so much more about condition than title. FOR ME, a game that is in amazing condition totally out weighs the title! If i think about it, the logic is odd, but real as it can be.
I am guessing its because we are surrounded by things that range from disposable to adequate. Here is another example. I have to have a mcintosh amplifier. I have to have one. I have wanted one since around 1994. For over a year now, I look at them almost daily on the computer. I cant afford one since they are much more than my car (about 4000 for a really nice used one from the late 70's early eighties). In fact I dont even look at the new stuff much. The build and design quality is so amazing that they have not changed much at all in 50 years. I just realized that if my attitude about sound moved to pinball I would be crap out of luck, because I cant listen to more than 10 sec of music if it is not coming thru proper equipment, and sounding like it sounds when it is played in person. Total sound snob. Its not all negative because when I listen to music at home, I get the same joy as when I used to play, and experience it in real time while making the sound. In fact I think I enjoy music much more now leaving it to the people who are really good at it.
I dont have a family, so in my life, finding things that incite positive emotion are very valuable to me. So if I have to save for a couple years to get something that will bring me "happiness" then I will gladly spend the dough. As I write that, it makes me realize I need to do the same and buy a game that cost more than 3k if it is a game that actually makes me "happy". For the last couple years I havent bought a game that really tweaks my brain because of the cost. So consequently, I am not enjoying pinball as much as I usually do because I have generic games rather than the amazing games. I often say to my self to justify this " I can enjoy any pinball game"
So today I am going to make a new envelope in my savings box for a sweet-assed game that I can only afford, if I save for a while rather than my max cash advance which is 3 grand.
I have, so many times, thought therapists were butt holes telling me to write a journal (at 52 years old). Writing this post kinda changed my perception in real time. Still I am not going to write in a frickin journal. How stupid is that? I used to say, " and evidence example #1 the defendant's journal says...."
Now that I am a law abiding geezer, I am still not going to.

Like many others, I am a big fan of your work and your thread. Maybe there are many others like me, I read every detail and ogle every picture, and enjoy all the stories about your work, pinball or not. Lurking in the background and not commenting much. Just giving you another vote of confidence.

I did get behind in this thread, and I just saw this post. I loved the irony that you are ranting about not writing a journal in this thread. Maybe those therapists were right - This thread IS your journal!

#560 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Here is my latest restoration. This is a 1961 Dynaco stereo 70 tube amp. They were originally a kit with the circuit board all ready built and tested. This is now complete and tested. I have not decided if I am going to get another to power my Von Schweikert VR4 speakers, and run them in mono to each side. I am not sure if that will be enough since the speakers are now hooked up to 2 amps that deliver 400 wpc each with 1400 wpc headroom each. Blah blah
Anyway this amp was designed by david hafler. Its older than me and almost as sweet and cool.
Not pinball, but the parts are so similar, and the expectations of the resto and end product are as high as in pinball. Also restored to function day to day. 4 of those tubes say in big letters "made in Russia" how cool is that. Not USSR, but mother russia. I believe they have a buttload of rare, heavy metals that they mine there. Notice all of the pan head screws are slotted and all slots run horizontal. New input/ output lugs, and cord, plus most components on the circuit board. all audio grade.
I have to believe with how similar the two hobbies there has to be some of you folks in to this. I am trying to find another group or community. Not hi fi buffs, but pinball and hi fi lovers? eh?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

There is some action going on in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vintage-stereo-club-monster-receivers-cassette-cd-players#post-3643396

#561 11 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Huh. Interesting to hear. It makes sense logically, as I am familiar with those indentations that the mounted things (posts, metal guides, etc) all press into the wood. And with the amount of repros out there now, some of the older games I understand it's just better to go the repro route.
It's why I did NOT decide to get my original Meteor PF restored - the time and effort (and $) would have outweighed the issues with the CPR field.

This is especially true with the early SS bally and stern pfs. If there is no scratches or scrapes ,clear and the back are 650 for reg size
100 to reglue the inserts
200-300 to level and paint the inserts.

If you are not a purist, or a nos type of person, then a repro is quite a bit cheaper, unless they need more than a clearcoat. Maybe the repro maker forgot the script in front of the drops? Or drilled extra holes around the pop bumpers or some crazy stuff like that. Still that is cheaper than fixing up on old SS era, nos PF

#562 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

This is especially true with the early SS bally and stern pfs. If there is no scratches or scrapes ,clear and the back are 650 for reg size
100 to reglue the inserts
200-300 to level and paint the inserts.
If you are not a purist, or a nos type of person, then a repro is quite a bit cheaper, unless they need more than a clearcoat. Maybe the repro maker forgot the script in front of the drops? Or drilled extra holes around the pop bumpers or some crazy stuff like that. Still that is cheaper than fixing up on old SS era, nos PF

Oh, no. These are WPC-era (TZ and WCS) prototype fields. Look like they don't have ANY clear. Inserts very slightly raised but a lot cracked. So, in either case, this is something for later. Next year.

#563 11 months ago

I was at Gene's where house once, and saw his huge stash of inserts, so I tried to buy a hand full of each. Once I realized how much is was going to cost, I tried to focus on the dmd pfs that were not being repro'ed at the time.
So I have a big box of new inserts, and another of used.

I really enjoy working on the prototype and mystery pfs. I have 2 Dolly parton jobs in right now, and one is obviously a proto. Almost every color is different than the other. The other category that I see come thru here is a nos pf that is not cleared, and usually not dimpled. Those are usually test runs that the screeners did. I have done quite a few of them. I have to do things different with them in the beginning of the process. It super important to get a pf clean and de-greased (hand oil and whatever) for a perfect, long living clear. I get a lot of letters asking about my kit, to fix spots that lifted, and the worst ones are always cleared by someone who is a "pro" with cars.

#564 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

This is especially true with the early SS bally and stern pfs. If there is no scratches or scrapes ,clear and the back are 650 for reg size
100 to reglue the inserts
200-300 to level and paint the inserts.
If you are not a purist, or a nos type of person, then a repro is quite a bit cheaper, unless they need more than a clearcoat. Maybe the repro maker forgot the script in front of the drops? Or drilled extra holes around the pop bumpers or some crazy stuff like that. Still that is cheaper than fixing up on old SS era, nos PF

I want to clarify this for people. The prices above, to level and paint the inserts, are for a pf that has super cupped inserts. like a paragon, or bally strikes and spares, bally playboy.
Generally, once you get to 1983 or 84 like fathom, or 8 ball delux, the inserts are not cupped and if they are its not much. This era and newer, the main concern is painting the cracks around the inserts. As you get newer, there is less cracks around the inserts.

The glue on inserts is generally failing on pfs older than 1980. What I mean by that is if you push on them with your finger you can hear or feel the movement or cracking. If a couple are failing, they will all sooner than later. The glue was made to last 30 years. If an insert comes loose after I have cleared it, its going to slowly lift and get ugly. I suggest that even if they are not cracking or loose that anything around 1980 (give or take a few) or older we reglue before clearing. That is easily the best use of 100$ that I can do for you!

#565 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

who is a "pro" with cars

*snrk* I know a lot of people who are 'pro' at cars, and still can't tie their shoes.

#566 11 months ago

here is some sunday paint work that kind of shows an older nos pf, and the insert issues. I had a hard time getting the lacquer out of the valleys of the wood grain, so I had to sand a bit deeper that I would like, but If I leave the gloss in the cracks of the wood grain it is going to show, and it will not adhere as well.

The damage on the white 5000 insert is not from sanding, it had the damage and the insert was falling out loose. There were a handfull that were loose, but this was the only one falling out. all got reglued

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#567 11 months ago

I have 8 different shades of black I use. 2 are the same maker and same color, just a different batch. They are just as different as the rest. The original colors look different than mine because they are sanded, so the texture makes a huge difference in the shade. There are a lot of tricks I have learned on matching colors, so that when cleared they will be the same.

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#568 11 months ago

here are some rough first coat pics at the end of the day

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#569 11 months ago

Here is some really exciting stuff. The inserts are not centered with the print, so all I can do is make the circle smaller. see what happens.
If the owner likes it I have to do all of them to make them look right obviously. Those small circles are very hard to paint because just the thickness of the pencil line will; make it look off. I have to stay to the inside or out side of the line. If I would have known I would need my eyes so sharp at this age, I would have asked all of the nice people who punched and kicked me in the head not to do so

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#570 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

here are some rough first coat pics at the end of the day
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The screw up on the last pic of the white 5000 insert is that I painted it before getting it level. I laid 2 coats down before this and sanded it all the way down butt there is a big gap on that insert and it didnt get filled, so I will have to level it and repaint it more than likely.

I also may be creative when it comes to repairing the damage outside the round key line on that same insert. There is no way to paint that without it looking touched up. (short of painting all of that cream color in that spot which would be my solution if not for the script which is very hard to cut in the letters that small)

#571 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

I also may be creative when it comes to repairing the damage outside the round key line on that same insert. There is no way to paint that without it looking touched up.

Forgive me as I'm a total idiot when it comes to this stuff, and you're the expert. Do you ever try fading it in? Like, masking a larger area than you need to touch up and gradually airbrushing a very close match into the existing color?

#572 11 months ago
Quoted from yancy:

Forgive me as I'm a total idiot when it comes to this stuff, and you're the expert. Do you ever try fading it in? Like, masking a larger area than you need to touch up and gradually airbrushing a very close match into the existing color?

Kind of like what a bodyshop does when they repaint a quarter panel or similar. They'll blend the new color of the quarter panel into the old painted areas around it.

#573 11 months ago

I can punch you in the head if youd like

#574 11 months ago
Quoted from Paulb:

I can punch you in the head if youd like

If you're going to give someone a good slam, at least block quote them.

#575 11 months ago
Quoted from Paulb:

I can punch you in the head if youd like

Paul, the idea is no more brain trauma. Its all ready so bad that I get a boner when i fire up the microwave. BUt your post got my first laugh of the day!

#576 11 months ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Kind of like what a bodyshop does when they repaint a quarter panel or similar. They'll blend the new color of the quarter panel into the old painted areas around it.

Back when i painted my 68 camaro and mustang in high school, (lots of bent metal back then)I called that "fading". I have no idea if that is the right word for it, but with lacquer paint, I could wet sand it to fade nice. I remember I couldnt fade by pulling farther away, but by closing up flow making my mist super fine

I used to mess around with that when I did resto work, sometimes it worked and sometimes not. The fade from an airbrush has such fine paint particles that its nothing like the fade they do in the artwork on the pf. If there is any clear built up at all, it doesn't look good enough for me. Although I never mastered the airbrush, I have only used it of necessity and never experimented with it long enough to be creative with it.

Some of the best resto work I have seen was by pf restorations,(about 10 years ago) and they used a lot of airbrush. The problem is I saw a lot of airbrush work that would have looked a lot better if they would have used a paint brush to paint in the key lines rather than mask and I can see the mask lines and the key lines get thick and thin or jagged.

It took me a couple years to get to the point where I could paint pfs without brush marks, but it takes a lot more time than airbrushing. I think the best results would be both combined.

In this example the art on the pf is such a hodgepodge, and almost each pf of this title is different

#577 11 months ago

cont..
I like my solution for the situation. very simple and blends right in. I will try to take pics when it is done. If I have to repaint the one insert because the groove looks crappy, I will have to repaint the whole area.

#578 11 months ago

This is not pinball but its the compound where it all happens. Their mom got hit or shot. Bow season started on the first, so they love the attention from me. One is a button. I know very well that this will more than likely end sadly. One was plowed right at the end of my drive. the county wont pick them up any more, and another buck, he got basically liquefied but a kid down the road that likes to hear the sound of his 20 years old F150 with no exhaust. its all lifted, and his grill, plastic off the quarter panels, the blue oval were stretched almost 150 ft down the road. The next day he drove by at least 65, again. the trees here are cut back off the road, about 6 feet on the ground, but once you are about 3 or 4 ft high, all of the branches extend half way thru the shoulder to the pavement. so its totally assnine to drive 65 on a road like that unless you are a graduate from galesburg high school townie with a monster truck.

So of course when I had the dead one in my loader and was taking him to the back to get buried, the sister saw me and stared at me like I was the dick that killed him.

Too nice out this weekend to do pfs. gonna process firewood to heat the studio and shop all winter. I have these amazing wood burners in all fo the buildings. they are between 90 and 95% efficient, and are awesome

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#579 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

"The inserts are not centered with the print"

I have always thought that a mask layer should have been printed to the raw playfield
first... that way the inserts have a reference registration/alignment point to work from.

#580 11 months ago

So I get a lot of questions on why would someone pay me to clear a repro pf that is already cleared and perfect.
I have been letting this pf cure since it came here about a month ago. I am going to sand it today, and let it cure some more. (not the clear as much as the wood)
These inserts were not cracked when it got here. Its very common for a little insert movement, but when it gets the jagged cracks, this is not something I would want to install. after all it hasn't even had a ball rolling on it yet. If this was a DE simpsons, all of these insert cracks would be right thru the art work, as that pf has the inserts hidden under the art, and not key lined around them. So I would have to match the colors the cracks go thru and paint the effected area within its natural borders of other colors. The last thing you want is to see touch up on a new pf. Its better to repaint the entire area of color effected. (or entire color of area effected).

If these cracks get much worse, say 100% that now, I will glue the inserts, but usually its just a matter of the wood drying.

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#581 11 months ago

here are a couple more, I think you get the idea, I am just documenting this in case I remember to take after pics.

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#582 11 months ago

Just received our IJ's you just went through (glitter versions) and wow they really look great. I only opened up the one. It makes total sense to have you do your work to it just from seeing a new playfield as delivered look. And yours hold up better long term too.

Love the crates; they really bulletproof the playfields for the trip. What is your recommendations for curing after your work Ron to install? 3 months, 6 months to a year?

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#583 11 months ago

I believe Ron has told me 6 months in the past, luckily I'm so slow waiting is never a problem haha.

#584 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I believe Ron has told me 6 months in the past, luckily I'm so slow waiting is never a problem haha.

If you can wait 5-6 months that would be awesome. The way I am doing this process lately is I let it sit around here for 3-4 weeks before I block sand them. Then it takes a couple 3 weeks to crate, ship and receive.
with your set, I got one done 3-4 weeks before the other (I can tell you which one) and they were both getting shipped in one crate. So I would like if people wait 2-6 months, but as long as you wait a month that will mean its been about 90 days since the last coat.

The other thing is I think you can start installing if you are the type where it takes a month right away. The recommendation is really about the surface getting played on

#585 11 months ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I believe Ron has told me 6 months in the past, luckily I'm so slow waiting is never a problem haha.

I’m the same. I have other projects going when the playfields are done, so by the time I get to it, it’s cured many months!

#586 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

This is not pinball but its the compound where it all happens. Their mom got hit or shot. Bow season started on the first, so they love the attention from me. One is a button. I know very well that this will more than likely end sadly. One was plowed right at the end of my drive. the county wont pick them up any more, and another buck, he got basically liquefied but a kid down the road that likes to hear the sound of his 20 years old F150 with no exhaust. its all lifted, and his grill, plastic off the quarter panels, the blue oval were stretched almost 150 ft down the road. The next day he drove by at least 65, again. the trees here are cut back off the road, about 6 feet on the ground, but once you are about 3 or 4 ft high, all of the branches extend half way thru the shoulder to the pavement. so its totally assnine to drive 65 on a road like that unless you are a graduate from galesburg high school townie with a monster truck.
So of course when I had the dead one in my loader and was taking him to the back to get buried, the sister saw me and stared at me like I was the dick that killed him.
Too nice out this weekend to do pfs. gonna process firewood to heat the studio and shop all winter. I have these amazing wood burners in all fo the buildings. they are between 90 and 95% efficient, and are awesome[quoted image]

God bless all the animals

#587 11 months ago

Man, those IJ inserts look terrible.

#588 11 months ago
Quoted from amxfc3s:

Man, those IJ inserts look terrible.

I am guessing they will get worse. from experience, its usually about 50% worse. I dont want to sand and seal the back yet, as to let it further cure.

I received a SS repro yesterday that I can tell is over a year old and the clear reacted very different. it made like a "v" channel around the insert on top of the edge where the wood and plastic meet. I dont think I can sand it level without taking off way too much ink, so I will be sanding by hand. either the clear moved away from that spot because it didnt like the glue?

anyway, thats just part of the job. I dont want to bang this topic in to the ground like beating a dead horse. For more than half the customers, its a non issue. Its new, it shines, and to quote someone in the repro biz "its a lot nicer than what you have in there now"

although on a positive note that SS I was talking about has a beautiful print. I know from gene's attempts, that title is not easy to make for a bunch of reasons. well mirco has his screening and printing down for sure!

#589 11 months ago

Yesterday I had some really nice folks from WY, drop off a cpr Paragon. Other than all of the star roll over inserts being totally clogged with clear (fixable with the handy dandy kruzman pf installation kit) the print looks fantastic. The stock cpr clear is quite thin and that may be why it seems better than normal. There is not as much mass to show the different surface levels on the inserts.
Unless I screw the pooch, its gonna look awesome, of course its a double wide. (quite a bit bigger than a wide dmd , say TZ)
I think this is the first of the cpr repros I have done of this title. If you have thought about doing, I recommend not just because its a beautiful game, and a great player, the cleared pf makes for less friction and the ball speed is about double. About half of the paragons I have played, played like dogs. The leg levelers need to come up in the back and the pf needs wax for it to play good. Also if your coils in your slings and kickers are tired, it slows the game way down since there is so much travel room before hitting another rubber surface

10
#590 11 months ago

Ron, Karolina approves of the work. Hope to get this going in 6 months. Thought you would get kick out of the picture.

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#591 11 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Ron, Karolina approves of the work. Hope to get this going in 6 months. Thought you would get kick out of the picture.
[quoted image]

Haha that's gold - love it

#592 11 months ago

She’s studying the artwork!

#593 11 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Ron, Karolina approves of the work. Hope to get this going in 6 months. Thought you would get kick out of the picture.
[quoted image]

That is a great PIC. Your cats color is really neat.
here at the compound I employ at least one mouser at all times. For the most part they are inbred rescue city cats from kalamazoo, and are not all that bright. Currently I have my first male cat (louie)who came from the north side of kzoo. In kzoo the north side is the wrong side. So his transplant out here after 5 years of stayin alive in the hood, is 365 milk and honey. He doesnt work much and I give him some slack, but now that he found that the fawns are afraid of him, he will never miss an opportunity to go at them while I am petting them. For some reason they fear a 6lb white cat. I am allergic to cats, so never really got to know any, till I moved out here. So now I am both a cat and dog person. louis goes for evening walks with me just like a dog. man he is dumb as shit.

My living room has become pf storage for pfs waiting to be picked up. If your pf has been here for more than a month, its time to start making plans to come get it/them. I am one visit from my girlfriends bull mastif laying waste to them.

The Iron men pfs are for sale
If you are new, my website (thanks tommy skinner) is pinballplayfieldskruzman.com
There is a list of new and used pfs for sale. The KISS le/premium, and iron man are not on it yet

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#594 11 months ago

None of those PFs are mine, but tell me about the Marantz receivers!

#595 11 months ago

cats are magical creatures
p.s. my offer still good from earlier post

I can make the diner leave for ya too....

#596 11 months ago
Quoted from ToucanF16:

None of those PFs are mine, but tell me about the Marantz receivers!

That's quite the pile of gear!

#597 11 months ago

I took some detailed pics of this pf I have for sale so a prospective customer could see the issues (I think this was made in 1981). Anyway, the one I wanted to point out which is hard to see but is a potential deal breaker, is there is a line where the 2 pieces of laminate but up against each other. The laminate is the high grade, paper thin, piece of wood glued to the top of cabinet stock plywood. Its very common, and after 30 or so years it will start to show. Its not a functional problem, just aesthetics.
On this pf look between the 400 and 500 inserts on the bonus counter area. The line is slightly right of center, and its not horrible but its there, and I wanted to point it out to the person asking questions about it.
So I repeat; its not a joint of the plywood, but the laminate. Its not structural, though it needs to be painted.

I will mention, but try not to sound like an ass, but when you buy pfs from someone, who is not goofy for pfs, he is not going to mention this. 50% of people dont know what it is. I get a lot of pfs shipped here to clear and fix up, and when it is one that I have for sale, MOST of the time it comes with a lot of surprises and cost more than the one I have for sale. Sometimes its less, (very rarely) but then it needs a lot of work bringing the price up.
Occasionally its very nice, and cost less than mine, and it bums me out that the seller didnt call me... ha

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#598 11 months ago

I finished another rick and morty pf for a spooky customer.
This will get shipped to spooky pinball today, and gets installed in the customers game. I dont think they charge any extra, though I am not sure. It does complicate and take more time, so it would only be fair if they did.

I would love to get my hands on some GnR pfs before they are installed. Its probably not feasible because of the amount of time my process takes (about 13 weeks)

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#599 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

I would love to get my hands on some GnR pfs before they are installed. Its probably not feasible because of the amount of time my process takes (about 13 weeks)

Hey Ron! I've reached out to Jen at JJP with no answer on exactly this item. I requested they send my CE PF to you prior to install, but I doubt they will as they are more 'mass' manufacturing than Spooky. I will be getting a spare CE PF and sending it your way for clear as insurance in case mine goes to hell.

#600 11 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

I took some detailed pics of this pf I have for sale so a prospective customer could see the issues (I think this was made in 1981). Anyway, the one I wanted to point out which is hard to see but is a potential deal breaker, is there is a line where the 2 pieces of laminate but up against each other. The laminate is the high grade, paper thin, piece of wood glued to the top of cabinet stock plywood. Its very common, and after 30 or so years it will start to show. Its not a functional problem, just aesthetics.
On this pf look between the 400 and 500 inserts on the bonus counter area. The line is slightly right of center, and its not horrible but its there, and I wanted to point it out to the person asking questions about it.
So I repeat; its not a joint of the plywood, but the laminate. Its not structural, though it needs to be painted.
I will mention, but try not to sound like an ass, but when you buy pfs from someone, who is not goofy for pfs, he is not going to mention this. 50% of people dont know what it is. I get a lot of pfs shipped here to clear and fix up, and when it is one that I have for sale, MOST of the time it comes with a lot of surprises and cost more than the one I have for sale. Sometimes its less, (very rarely) but then it needs a lot of work bringing the price up.
Occasionally its very nice, and cost less than mine, and it bums me out that the seller didnt call me... ha
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Man, my bond game has been down for years now. I need to get that thing going again.

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