(Topic ID: 243533)

KRUZMAN monthly playfield thread

By kruzman

2 years ago


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There are 1558 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 32.
#1101 4 months ago

I have a couple new things that are now available. A couple Star Gazer repro pfs, and 4 sets of plastics.

I have a couple Star Gazer PF's, uncleared and cleared, but the only one that matters is one with my clear process which cost 1525 for the complete pf. If you want one to clear your self you can contact me for price.

I have 4 plastic sets (repros from cpr). They all have a lot of extras, and the shadow has the big topper, as well as the nitro ground shaker
Shadow 149
Bally Star Trek 139
Mata Hari 139
Nitro Ground shaker 139

so everything is 20 bucks less than cpr

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#1102 4 months ago

I have to clean the compound from all of the edges before I take the pics, but I finished a pf at about 10 pm last night. Guess the title. DMD. Not too deep but you have to go a long way to get to the wizard mode, and that is SUPER FUN. Its a Nordman/ Freres collaboration. I sold my game in 2010 for 3000. Its was in amazing, low play condition. I cant think of any more hints that are not way to easy to figure out. 4000 were made and its a good candidate for reproduction.

#1105 4 months ago

Ok, well that isn't that hard... but maybe stiff.

P.S.
I'm waiting on Planetary to ship my MB playfield... then it's off to you.

#1106 4 months ago

SS it is!
Some of these repro pfs make no sense at all. I did my usual amount of coats on this scared stiff. After the last coats, I let it set for a month, and nothing changed, looked perfect, so I block sanded it and polished it. I let the IJ repro made by mirco also sit for the same time, and the inserts shrunk. its hard to describe, but the inserts are no longer level. I have been trying to deal with this issue for years and years. I dont want to make my clear any thicker than it has to be, but on the Indy that I planned to block sand and polish today and tomorrow, I am going to have to sand it level and apply 2 more coats. I could sand it level, and polish it the way it is, and that may work just as good. For some reason, as policy, if it doesnt stay flat between the time of the last coat and time to block/polish, I sand and recoat. Sucks.
NOS pfs almost never do this stuff.

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#1107 4 months ago

CPR has the guns and roses repro pf available on their site!!!

#1108 4 months ago

I had until recently a Dialed In CE and also had a mostly populated Spare CE playfield for it, both had low inserts. All were too low.

#1109 4 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

CPR has the guns and roses repro pf available on their site!!!

Shame the JAM inserts and Dizzy Ball insert are clear as opposed to the original yellow, but I guess something is better than nothing?

#1110 4 months ago
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:

Shame the JAM inserts and Dizzy Ball insert are the wrong colour

Yes they are wrong. CPR confirmed this in a email, they should drop the price.

#1111 4 months ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I had until recently a Dialed In CE and also had a mostly populated Spare CE playfield for it, both had low inserts. All were too low.

Once a pf is old enough that everything has settled, here is what I have figured out. One of the reasons I do 8 coats or maybe 10 is they are thin coats to start with and then I sand about 40% off and level after it cures for 2 or more weeks. It becomes like Damascus steel, and if I dont get the pf too hot when I am polishing, it levels out the whole thing.
This is something I have always dealt with. On this IJ, there is a 90% chance I will be able to make it right. now that the last coat is over a month, cured, I will spray another set of 2, allow to cure for more than 2 weeks and sand it all nice and level, block sand polish, clean all of that stuff, and we should be perfect.

When I want to be on a schedule, and or want to get done and paid, sometimes I find that the pf doesnt have the same schedule. So I have to remember that I will be ok if I have to put an extra couple weeks in it. The customer has been super patient so far so I dont think it will bother him.

#1112 4 months ago
Quoted from BurnDizzyBurn:

Shame the JAM inserts and Dizzy Ball insert are clear as opposed to the original yellow, but I guess something is better than nothing?

Thank you for posting this. I dont know if its mentioned in other threads on pinside, but I encourage everyone to help me with things like this for the other folks that may plan to buy one.
Not so that they dont buy one, but just so they are prepared, or they can contact cpr and see if they can get the correct inserts, before it gets shipped.

I am the type, (at least in this case) that I would take one with the insert flaw, if I get a financial incentive.

#1113 4 months ago

If this were me, I would gladly take the clear inserts and put a yellow colored LED behind them and forget about it... who is going to be the wiser while playing it?

#1114 4 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

If this were me, I would gladly take the clear inserts and put a yellow colored LED behind them and forget about it... who is going to be the wiser while playing it?

That was my idea also, but I think you should get a discount.

#1115 4 months ago

I read somewhere that pinball expo is on for this fall in chicago? Its an expensive trip, but I think I would like to go to that. See my goofball peeps I havent seen in years, plus play the new games out there. Like I said in a post last week, both a good friend who is not a pin head and my self want to get newish stern games in a couple weeks. So the show would have been great for that.. but no.

We are going to look at the inventory at star world in kalamazoo tuesday.

I contacted trent to see what games he has available and as of last monday it was stranger things, jurrasic park, star wars and led zep. Neither of us are interested in any of them. I am going to get his (my friend's) 2 games to sell or trade on the 19th it looks like. I told him I would help him sell them, since I am usually home. Plus he knows how to turn them on, not too much more.

So if you have a nice stern that you want to sell, drop me a line. I would go for an older title like WPT, or family guy, or even T3. I need to make sure both games are shopped, working 100%, and pretty much bullet proof. If there is a problem, well, its my problem, and I dont have the time. I will check the pinside for sale michigan thread as he gets closer to getting the games over here. I mean letting me go to his house and loading them and bringing them over here.

If you love mousin around and or T2. both will be for sale. Both have been at his house for about 8 years on the MA and 6 for the t2. I am bad on time. I shopped the MA about 3 years ago. I know the t2 had the pf glass break and even though I have cleaned that game 2 times to get the glass out, there are still little shards. One of the pop bumpers is out. I think the MA plays 100% it did about 6 months ago when I played it last

#1116 4 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

read somewhere that pinball expo is on for this fall in chicago?

Yes, I am scheduled to go... last weekend in October. Come on out... I'm flying in from Az.

#1117 4 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

Yes, I am scheduled to go... last weekend in October. Come on out... I'm flying in from Az.

AWESOME. I am going to look it up this week and make reservations. I am guessing its at the same place.

I am adding am IRON MAIDEN LE pf to the website, as well as a screened shadow repro pf set.

pinballplayfieldskruzman.com

#1118 4 months ago

New physical location, but same old website: https://pinballexpo.com/

NEW LOCATION!
Renaissance Schaumburg Convention Center Hotel
1551 N. Thoreau Drive, Schaumburg, IL 60173
October 27 - October 30, 2021

#1119 4 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

New physical location, but same old website: https://pinballexpo.com/
NEW LOCATION!
Renaissance Schaumburg Convention Center Hotel
1551 N. Thoreau Drive, Schaumburg, IL 60173
October 27 - October 30, 2021

Hotel rooms are already sold out (on-site)

#1120 4 months ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

New physical location, but same old website: https://pinballexpo.com/
NEW LOCATION!
Renaissance Schaumburg Convention Center Hotel
1551 N. Thoreau Drive, Schaumburg, IL 60173
October 27 - October 30, 2021

Website is different ( updated) than in previous years...

#1121 4 months ago
Quoted from Staffan:

Hotel rooms are already sold out (on-site)

Crap. I will check the other places schumburg is an expensive place, but there are a lot of hotels

#1122 4 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Crap. I will check the other places schumburg is an expensive place, but there are a lot of hotels

Contact Rob Berk and see if more rooms will be available for Expo.

#1123 4 months ago
Quoted from chad:

Website is different ( updated) than in previous years...

I was just referring to the URL... same old one.

#1124 4 months ago

This Mirco funhouse came out just perfect. I dont have one single little issue with it!! I love when that happens.
So one more knocked out!
Next up are paragon repro, T2, Totan

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#1125 4 months ago

AND I forgot who owns the FH. Please let me know when you see this. the name is on the pf and I just wrapped it all up nice and neat. so if I have to I will unwrap it

#1126 4 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

AND I forgot who owns the FH. Please let me know when you see this. the name is on the pf and I just wrapped it all up nice and neat. so if I have to I will unwrap it

If noone claims it, it's mine.

#1127 4 months ago

I have the name on the tip of my tongue and I cant remember.

Whenever you send me a pf or I am doing work for you: Please send an email to my [email protected] acct with the title of the game in the subject.
I have a folder I keep all of those in. When I get folks to do this I can check them out right away, from that saved email. When we do the deal on pinside and your name is pinhead69 and in the subject it says clear coat, I have thousands of them.

I have been asking people to send me an email I can save, but I have only done it so long and I guess I am forgetting

#1128 4 months ago

On that Funhouse, its real easy for a clear coater to just spray clear and not think about the edges of that trap door. After every other coat, I use one of the bits from the "kruzman pf install kit" to grind the clear out of the edge that the trap door sits in to be flush.

starting a couple years ago (dont ask when because the years are all falling together for me now) I use a bit from the above mentioned handy dandy "Kruzman pf install kit" to grind all of the clear out of the t nut depressions, as well as the ramp lip depressions. Actually I do the countersinks on the bally or williams or newer sterns (I forget who counter sinks them) flipper rails, where the ball runs down the save lane.
I think it was an ES pf I installed where the flipper rails have the black plastic like nipples that go in to the counter sunk holes.
ANYWAY, my point is when a pf is cleared by me, there is only a small amount of clear in those areas that would other wise be filled with clear, if done by someone who is not keeping installation in mind.

The teeth on t nuts are not made to break thru the hard clear, they bend, and the t nuts dont grab well. So I found it makes for a much better completed job, as well as making the process more enjoyable to remove the clear first.

If you think of clear like glass, it doesn't like to be screwed in to, and its going to crack if you hammer something in to it.

ANOTHER THING on that FH is when I put my finger in the ball holes, I could feel a lip formed inside that hole from the coats of clear. Remember clear builds up taller at edges. So I went thru and once again called upon my "kruzman pf install kit" to grind down those lips that form inside the ball holes.

So the final shameless promotion of the kruzman pf install kit is many of the cut outs in the repro pfs have rough wood or splinters sticking out, possibly from the CNC machine being dull, or cutting too fast. Either way the clear makes them even stronger. In many cases they dont matter, but in the thin slits for the wire roll-over switches, the splinters will almost always cause your wire not to perform smoothly. So I go thru and knock down all of that junk, but there is always going to be something I miss. There is a bit in the install kit that is perfect for getting in that little slit and smoothing out the sides.

I was prepping a repro pf this week and every single hole had rough splinters from where the CNC bit started and finished. It had the stock clear which made the wood splinters even stronger. In this case I used a barrel bit for the dremmil with a roll of sand paper on it, to go thru the inside edges of all of the cut outs. Its a half hour, but a good investment. I cant remember which title it was.

So before you start your pf installation. Take some time to look at the inside edges of all of the cut outs. use your fingers where you can and feel for lips of clear, or splinters. I suggest knocking all of that down before getting started.

If you dont know the "KRUZMAN PLAYFIELD INSTALATION KIT" is a bunch of stuff I found helpful to install a clear coated pf, the way I do it and suggest with my clear. This means removing a little clear before drilling or screwing in to the pf. so the kit has 12 different dremmil bits, and a stone to clean the bits. a cheap tool to measure drill bits and screws that I use almost every day, and love. Then it has a glue kit with 1oz of a glue that is so thin that if you remove a small amount of clear with a dremmil bit, and drip a drop on the inside lip of the clear, the glue will quickly wick in to the wood and go under the clear and lock it down from underneath! You can do this every where you remove a little clear, this stuff is amazing at fixing any screw ups. Also comes with 5 or 6 hypo needles to apply the glue.

Here is an example where the glue and needle saved my tuckas:
walking in the shop, playfield under my arm, I turned to hit the light, and the edge of the front of the pf hit the solid door. It made a dent in the edge of the pf and an area about 1 sq cm of the clear was lifted or ghosted. You can tell its off the wood because its a different color (ghosted).
I used the needle with some glue, and I propped the pf standing on its side edge. This was to make gravity work for me. I used the needle to get under the clear at the edge of the pf, (where the dent was) and the needle pryed the clear open just a little. You cant be too careful doing this because if you lift it too much you will either do more damage or you will crack the clear. The glue is so thin it will run down the thinnest crack which it did. then I pushed down on the spot from the face and held it for about a min. when I let go the ghost area was gone, and the area was locked down. easy peasy. The glue is clear and displaces the air from the ghosted area and it looks new.

So I think the kit is a MUST HAVE when installing a cleared pf. What I mean by cleared is a stock repro clear or a after market clear. On a non cleared pf its not essential, though I bet there are plenty of opportunities to use it. It doesnt come with directions. Its meant to be tools to help you, much like a hammer or screw driver. The solvent for the glue is acetone if you spill any.
Price is 90$ and it helps pay the electric bill at the shop

#1129 4 months ago

So I have been trying to think of the owner's name of the FH. I keep thinking a British name. Why british name, and what is british. So I am going thru all of the typical british first names, and I think its Neil. Well, thats not a british name, but I used to be a huge fan of the "young ones" and Neil was my favorite character.
Pretty sure it Neil. of course I looked thru my saved mail and nothing. Maybe its not Neil, but I think so

#1130 4 months ago

Here are some issues with a globe trotters silver to start on

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#1131 4 months ago

I am finally getting around to painting this solar city. had to match black purple and red

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#1132 4 months ago

I Neil will be up saturday to pick up my playfield, I prepaid you as well

#1133 4 months ago
Quoted from Paulb:

I Neil will be up saturday to pick up my playfield, I prepaid you as well

Now I remember! didnt you pre pay for several?

#1134 4 months ago

So I used to have a lot of trouble with the totan repros, but this one is a mirco. I did have an issue of the top laminate not being glued well and it was separating. I didnt have to do any painting and this pf has 69-70 inserts! possibly the most of the wpc games.
I am super happy about how it came out. Thank god, one more kick in the stones of my general luck could be the straw that broke the camels back.
One more done!
I do know who owns this one, thank you! MW

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#1135 4 months ago

Well. those pics suck. you will just have to trust me its perfect

#1136 4 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Well. those pics suck. you will just have to trust me its perfect

All your work is!

#1137 4 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

Here are some issues with a globe trotters silver to start on
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Ron thanks for taking on the silver and making it into gold!!

#1138 4 months ago
Quoted from rodcom:

Ron thanks for taking on the silver and making it into gold!!

Maybe platinum?!

#1139 4 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Maybe platinum?!

Now that is some marketing!!
I could go platinum or the ol 11 angle.
"ya see it is one more than 10"
love it!

I was thinking yesterday that if I ever went back to the real working world, it would be hard for me, since I always do things my way or the highway. After a little while i remembered when i restored a 1880's era house for someone and at the end of the job we got in to a verbal fight over the colors they picked and I told them I wouldnt do it! I would not paint the work those colors. So I guess its always been like this.

I very much appreciate the support from you guys and the pinball community

#1140 4 months ago

I think this pf is going to be the sleeper of the year. first off it an amazing and under rated game. I would love one. The factory clear on the pf was so thin and the inserts were so uneven I had to sand the whole thing by hand, and I hate doing that. Its bad enough i have to sand them by hand at the end of the process. But here it is with some of the prep done and one nice coat down. its gonna look so tits

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#1141 3 months ago

We got over 5 inches of rain since friday, at dawn. I cant spray in this humidity. I dont have anything sanded to polish (even though 6 pfs are ready to get final block wet sand). So I did paint work all day yesterday.
Happy to say completed the paint work on the solar city, and Harlem Globetrotters. I got all of the black done on the NOS Scared stiff. On the scared stiff more than half of the inserts have the crack around the inserts, Plus there is always a crack around the sensor in front of the crate. So When I want todo a nice job I paint the red in front of the crate.

These are pics of the top side where I was working, the eye ball extra ball insert was raised (they always are). The 5th pic is the area in front of the crate that has to be painted. The yellow around the jackpot inserts really shows the crack.
You may notice there is some nice, thorough prep on this before the first coats.
The 3rd pic shows a factory flaw, where there was not enough orange ink to fill the ring around the skulls.

The way I match colors is, i put down a sample of the different shades I have and then I can see which is closest, then use the others to lighten, darken or tone. I have a book of paint color formulas from past jobs, but so often they are not even close. I think they mixed the colors daily. so pfs from the same day's run match, and thats about it. I have a way to treat the colors to show what they will look like with the clear on them, which deepens the tone, as well as darkens. For example, you cant use white to lighten a color generally.
I have only found one brand of paint that has a yellow that covers in one or 2 coats, and my clear melts it, so I cant use it. Yellow is the hardest to cover, so in that case I will add white for coverage then a dark yellow that is transparent. I have over 1300 bottles of paint. some of them cost about 10 bucks ea on average. I have about 500 bottles of the paints from michaels that cost less than 2 bucks, but I rarely use them. either they dont cover, or often they dont handle the deep tint in the lighter colors. for example they will have a opaque or, pastel tint to them. Nothing like the deep tints of the inks used. I like the liquitex and golden paints. golden is even more expensive, same price as liquitex but 1/2 the amount. people always ask me what I use, so there you go.

In the last couple years I have not been able to find the brushes I like, of any brand, so I have been buying brushes and sculpting them to my needs

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#1142 3 months ago

A fella names Tommy Skinner drove out to the compound to help me with the WPT and my Flight 2000. There is nothing better than someone that goes beyond your expectations. The last couple contractors I hired, were either totally unqualified (and not trying to learn), or johnnie cut corners (even being paid hourly). Not only did Tommy do the assigned jobs the right way, afterwards, he went thru and adjusted switches, bulbs, installed caps on the spinners to allow them to score when it spins fast. So I want to thank Tommy, but my point is: next time you do something for someone weather you are being paid or not, I dare you to challenge your self and go a little beyond the bottom expectations, and see how it effects the way people think of you and the way you think of your self. One thing I have always kept in mind, is leave it looking betterthat it did when you got there.
even if you are to fix something mechanical, there is always a little tidy-up thing you can do that will make the owner, or even your girlfriend (if working on your own) notice that you are a rock star.

#1143 3 months ago

does anyone have any experience with this? they came in a centaur pf (cpr) I think they may be for when they clear to help keep out the clear, but they are cleared in there good and I am afraid to mess with it until I find out more. I wrote cpr. the last pic is one of the 3 was a little movable and I knocked iy out from the back and the arms just broke off and the stuck ones are cleared in still. It is SUPER EASY to break the tabs under these inserts.
any help is appreciated. kruz

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#1144 3 months ago

The centaur came directly from cpr this week

#1145 3 months ago

I am so happy with how this cpr stones repro came out.
The before pics of the star roll over inserts are back a page or 2. The clear was very hard (harder than the insert) and it took a lot of time and patience, and cussing to get them right. I test every roll over insert before a pf leaves the compound.

The print looks really good. Not sure if this is old screened version or new digital, but looks great, and its centered on the inserts and cut-outs.

and... will the owner of the stones pf please contact the mgmt. Your pf is ready. Thank you.

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#1146 3 months ago

Wow, that’s perfect.

#1147 3 months ago

So, I am looking for a pinhead on pinside named Ian. That is who owns the Funhouse. Maybe that will jog some ones memory.

A RARE OPINION:

I finished a Paragon repro last night. I have to clean the compound out of the edges and I will take pics. I believe some people think I dont like CPR, which is not true at all, in fact I will give them the highest compliment I could give them. This paragon repro is better than a nos. The print looks just like the NOS is suppose to look like with depth. Very Detailed, and rich colors.

The problem with the nos is the inserts. they are big enough to cup a quarter inch. There are huge gaps around the inserts from the materials shrinking over time. No disrespect to the nos. This is a case that the repro is finally better than the original for both looks and cost. This is the first time I have ever said this because I love nos pf's. I love reproduction pfs also but for the most part its the collectability and rarity that cause me to favor the NOS.

I would like to know if the paragons are screened or digital

Hopefully cpr or a cpr worker sees this and feels good

#1148 3 months ago
Quoted from kruzman:

The centaur came directly from cpr this week

Hi Ron .. long time no seen

I would use some dilution in the center of the roll-over , let it work and push the "protectors" out if the clear becomes weak. It will harden again.
This rollovers are a pita. I have a Eightball out for rescreening and my painter will do the clear afterwards.
I removed the single rollover, will print and bring first clear on. THAN glue in the rollover and airbrush the border and give a last , thin layer clear before finishing.
I did also many Centaurs, rescreens and repros, always a nightmare. My wifes nail file is my best friend in case of emergency

#1149 3 months ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Hi Ron .. long time no seen
I would use some dilution in the center of the roll-over , let it work and push the "protectors" out if the clear becomes weak. It will harden again.
This rollovers are a pita. I have a Eightball out for rescreening and my painter will do the clear afterwards.
I removed the single rollover, will print and bring first clear on. THAN glue in the rollover and airbrush the border and give a last , thin layer clear before finishing.
I did also many Centaurs, rescreens and repros, always a nightmare. My wifes nail file is my best friend in case of emergency

a couple good ideas. sounds good.

#1150 3 months ago

Here are the Paragon pics I promised. (reproduction pf). Its a huge pf and a lot of work, but its going to play fast!

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