On that Funhouse, its real easy for a clear coater to just spray clear and not think about the edges of that trap door. After every other coat, I use one of the bits from the "kruzman pf install kit" to grind the clear out of the edge that the trap door sits in to be flush.
starting a couple years ago (dont ask when because the years are all falling together for me now) I use a bit from the above mentioned handy dandy "Kruzman pf install kit" to grind all of the clear out of the t nut depressions, as well as the ramp lip depressions. Actually I do the countersinks on the bally or williams or newer sterns (I forget who counter sinks them) flipper rails, where the ball runs down the save lane.
I think it was an ES pf I installed where the flipper rails have the black plastic like nipples that go in to the counter sunk holes.
ANYWAY, my point is when a pf is cleared by me, there is only a small amount of clear in those areas that would other wise be filled with clear, if done by someone who is not keeping installation in mind.
The teeth on t nuts are not made to break thru the hard clear, they bend, and the t nuts dont grab well. So I found it makes for a much better completed job, as well as making the process more enjoyable to remove the clear first.
If you think of clear like glass, it doesn't like to be screwed in to, and its going to crack if you hammer something in to it.
ANOTHER THING on that FH is when I put my finger in the ball holes, I could feel a lip formed inside that hole from the coats of clear. Remember clear builds up taller at edges. So I went thru and once again called upon my "kruzman pf install kit" to grind down those lips that form inside the ball holes.
So the final shameless promotion of the kruzman pf install kit is many of the cut outs in the repro pfs have rough wood or splinters sticking out, possibly from the CNC machine being dull, or cutting too fast. Either way the clear makes them even stronger. In many cases they dont matter, but in the thin slits for the wire roll-over switches, the splinters will almost always cause your wire not to perform smoothly. So I go thru and knock down all of that junk, but there is always going to be something I miss. There is a bit in the install kit that is perfect for getting in that little slit and smoothing out the sides.
I was prepping a repro pf this week and every single hole had rough splinters from where the CNC bit started and finished. It had the stock clear which made the wood splinters even stronger. In this case I used a barrel bit for the dremmil with a roll of sand paper on it, to go thru the inside edges of all of the cut outs. Its a half hour, but a good investment. I cant remember which title it was.
So before you start your pf installation. Take some time to look at the inside edges of all of the cut outs. use your fingers where you can and feel for lips of clear, or splinters. I suggest knocking all of that down before getting started.
If you dont know the "KRUZMAN PLAYFIELD INSTALATION KIT" is a bunch of stuff I found helpful to install a clear coated pf, the way I do it and suggest with my clear. This means removing a little clear before drilling or screwing in to the pf. so the kit has 12 different dremmil bits, and a stone to clean the bits. a cheap tool to measure drill bits and screws that I use almost every day, and love. Then it has a glue kit with 1oz of a glue that is so thin that if you remove a small amount of clear with a dremmil bit, and drip a drop on the inside lip of the clear, the glue will quickly wick in to the wood and go under the clear and lock it down from underneath! You can do this every where you remove a little clear, this stuff is amazing at fixing any screw ups. Also comes with 5 or 6 hypo needles to apply the glue.
Here is an example where the glue and needle saved my tuckas:
walking in the shop, playfield under my arm, I turned to hit the light, and the edge of the front of the pf hit the solid door. It made a dent in the edge of the pf and an area about 1 sq cm of the clear was lifted or ghosted. You can tell its off the wood because its a different color (ghosted).
I used the needle with some glue, and I propped the pf standing on its side edge. This was to make gravity work for me. I used the needle to get under the clear at the edge of the pf, (where the dent was) and the needle pryed the clear open just a little. You cant be too careful doing this because if you lift it too much you will either do more damage or you will crack the clear. The glue is so thin it will run down the thinnest crack which it did. then I pushed down on the spot from the face and held it for about a min. when I let go the ghost area was gone, and the area was locked down. easy peasy. The glue is clear and displaces the air from the ghosted area and it looks new.
So I think the kit is a MUST HAVE when installing a cleared pf. What I mean by cleared is a stock repro clear or a after market clear. On a non cleared pf its not essential, though I bet there are plenty of opportunities to use it. It doesnt come with directions. Its meant to be tools to help you, much like a hammer or screw driver. The solvent for the glue is acetone if you spill any.
Price is 90$ and it helps pay the electric bill at the shop