You can have one sub play audio from up to 5 pins at once. The system has level controls for each pin and mixes them all to the one speaker.

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/products/pinsmx-passive-subwoofer-mixer

No where does that say all 5 can be played simultaneously. It simply says 5 can be hooked to 1 sub, and each has separate level controls. How can 5 separate audio tracks be played simultaneously through 1 speaker? It would be a giant muddy mess.

I have it on 3 and it sounds fine when they are played at once. The system is designed to work that way, believe it or not.

I don't understand how that works. If all 3 of your pins are outputting 3 different bass notes at 3 different frequencies simultaneously, what does the mixer/speaker do?

Adding a sub is an essential mod in my personal opinion (especially on Stern). I am currently mixing 5 pins through a RSL speedwoofer; I very quickly moved beyond the passive mixing device mentioned in this thread; an active mixer is definitely the way to go. I spent a reasonable amount of time researching passive vs. active mixers and an active mixer has made me much much happier (it's also cheaper!).

mixer (resized).png

Same as any speaker when playing music that has been mixed in the studio...

Not the same thing. That's multiple tracks that have been mixed intentionally to go together. Then the final product is played as 1 "song" through a speaker. Imagine playing 3 different songs not meant to go together simultaneously through 1 speaker. That's what we're dealing with. Anyway, I don't get it. I put in an email to Pinnovators to clarify. Perhaps I'm wrong.

Sorry, but it is the same thing.

Nope

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LMAO at ppl like this. You are arguing your point based on your opinion. Folks here are TELLING you that it works. I also am telling you that it works as I have the same setup. The sound coming from 1 is no more muddled than coming from 2 different subs. It just gets insanely loud and hard to hear everything but not because it’s on 1 sub.

Oh and it shakes the whole damn house but that’s because I use BIG subs, not the Polk.

Take it off and replace with a thumb lock. Unless there's a reason to keep it locked

https://www.pinballlife.com/keyless-coin-door-lock.html
Local hardware or RV will have them as well

I don't have all five machines on the same sub going simultaneously very often, but when I do it's no more "muddled" then when I didn't have the sub...that is my experience with it. Cactus Canyon sounds amazing hooked to the sub, especially when the ball activates the pop bumpers.

Gotcha. And that's all I was trying to wrap my head around. Some people saying you can connect multiple sources to 1 sub without any distortion didn't compute with me. And according to pinnovators themselves (not my opinion), I was correct. I completely understand that the distortion is no worse than multiple subs playing at the same time. Therefore, their product saves money and hassle. Im glad to get some clarification on how it works.

Of course, playing one audio source at a time will sound best, but the method of mixing audio waves using a device designed for audio mixing will MIX the sources, the resulting sound wave will be played by the speaker. Some care needs to be taken such that proper filtering is being done for the type of speaker being used. Usually subs have a built-in crossover to cut-off any high-frequency components. Other issues that may occur are constructive or destructive interference between two different audio sources, but I haven't really encountered that problem with the system that I'm running. Overall, it sounds great. Really not trying to start any argument here, just trying to be helpful.

Now, all this being said, I fully expect the CGC sound to be much better that what comes stock with a Stern machine. In all my Sterns I completely bypass the on-board audio amplifier in favor of a stereo amplifier for the backbox and a mono amplifier for the cabinet speaker and an actively mixed external subwoofer.

BTW, CoolCatPinball I was just in Knoxville playing at Token, cool place, you know it? My bro lives in the Knoxville area.

I was there last night! Lol. Free play pinball after 6pm on Tuesdays I live about 5 miles from Token. Hit me up next time you're in town. What's your brother's name?

Nice! Kyle is his name, he is usually there for the free-play nights. Go easy on him, he's still learning, haha.

Sorry for bogging down the thread everyone. Back to Cactus Canyon.

Everybody #2208 SEplus has landed in my garage. I am going to go pick a fight with a outlaw now.

Reposting because it might have become buried with troubleshooting posts....

In support of the many depressed Cactus Canyonites that are patiently waiting for their game to arrive, can news strictly regarding game arrival or news about CHC production be posted in "We’re moving to Cactus Canyon! Official Preorder thread" By jfh (1 year ago)- Last post 11 days ago? While I am grateful you guys are identifying and correcting issues I might encounter, I really just want to hear about deliveries and production news. Anything else is just depressing. What do you think? You guys have arrived in Cactus Canyon. We are still waiting for boxes to be unpacked. LOL

Are you running speaker signal from game's bottom cabinet speaker to 1/4" male plug on mixer and a 1/4" male from mixer output to input ports on sub?

The manual states that the Bounty Award may be lit by the Lasso Skill Shot (page A). Which skill shot is that? It's not on the skill shot list on the same page.

Ah, probably the "Light Bounty Award" skill shot. Never mind!

Don't have my CCr yet, so this applies only to my Stern games (don't mean to hijack the thread); I connect from the line-level header in the backbox (CN5, I think, this is before the amplifier chips), to the input of the mixer then mixer output to the sub (the sub is amplified).

Now the question for the CGC owners and/or electrical schematic readers (I haven't seen any electrical schematics yet)...is there a line-level header that we audio modders can tap into before the amplifier chips on the CGC board-sets? If such a header exists, then monitoring this output voltage level could help identify a low line-level signal that has been speculated to cause some of the low and muffled audio levels on some games (a good place to start looking anyway for games that suffer this condition).

If the board is the same as the other remakes then yes. I’ve hooked up a headphone station to it on my MMr.

I'm officially in the club with LE #113. Which was built on January 2nd, 2023.

It's been a pretty painless new game. I've only had a few games on it so far. The topper seems to be missing on of the plastic led shields and a few screws and the beer target needs to be looked at as it's not registering a lot of hard hits and doesn't really jump. I also didn't particularly like the print quality of the translate. Characters looked pretty pixelated, but I had planned on changing it out for Brian's artwork anyway as I think it matches the game better.

All in all, very minor stuff. This is my first CGC game and I'm liking it so far. I do have to get used to the flipper feel a bit more as they feel a little foreign to me.

Edit: The beer issue was caused by the cliffy style ramp protector rubbing on the beer mug causing it to lock up. Tightening the yellow post moved the hole up a little and fixed the issue. Though after it moved it was getting stuck up. I added a plastic washer as the rubber was getting caught on the switch mount.
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Did CGC announce what ratio of SE+ they will make along with the LE’s?

No.

Shelti or tornado foosball table?

Thanks. Not surprised
Glad to see games rolling out

You know...they are adjustable...

Just sayin'...

It's a Tornado.

Though I have to give it some love. The playfield has lifted on a couple spots so it is not completely flat. Which drives me a little nuts. So I think I need to lift it all and reglue it. Which I'm not looking forward to.

I don't think it's just the power, I can make the ramps with plenty of power to spare.

I've been playing a lot of Stern's JP and those flippers are angled slightly steeper and are extremely snappy. When I start dialing those shots in it makes all the shot timings and angles feel off on other games.

I think it is a 'me' problem and not the games, but need to play more to make sure.

Edit: Played a few more games. I'm starting to think the EOS switch is setup a little odd and is triggering a little early.

With this, I'm finding live catches really easy on my game and some of my on the fly shots have almost no juice. At some point I'll compare it against one of my Williams games.

I'm also getting a little flipper hop of the left flipper which I imagine is really messing up my accuracy on that flipper. I know how to address this with screw in guide rails but not sure how to fix this with these wire guide rails though. I know low profile titans are a thing, I just don't like the feel of Titan rubbers.

Yes I agree, toppergate was a fizz.
No one is missing out by purchasing an SE. The game is under the glass

Out of the box, my SE had the flippers angled way too high. Once I aligned them with the guide rails it made the shots a lot more intuitive.

I still have a little hop when the ball rolls down slowly, but usually not when the ball rolls down either ramp into the inlane.

Did this flipper hop thing just appear in later builds? I have an April build and with factory rubber it is smooth as can be rolling to the flipper.

me as well..earlier build, like yours..and hardly any ball hop at all, unless I do a machine gun approach (I call it sword-fighting), trying to get the gold mine or something..not any more hop than any of my other machines..

I have no flipper hop on #107 built 12/29

Curious to hear what you find is the issue with your beer mug. Mine arrived with the switch stuck closed. I’m wondering if the rod is slightly bent as it does not move smoothly up and down. Definitely some binding going on.

For those with troublesome flipper hop, I would love to see a photo of the position of the flipper bushing in the hole.

I’ve heard switching to a low bounce (not as thick) from Titan helps. That’s my next step.

Time to choose! Shout out to DaddyManD for recommending ordering sample swatches from https://www.prismaticpowders.com/ Lots of texture differences and you can hold them up to the game with the lighting in your room.

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So maybe the SE+ will wind up being the real limited edition. Maybe worth $20k if CGC only sells 500 or fewer of them.

Better grab the LE for $12,500 now (for those who missed out at announcement)

SE+ will probably have the lowest production for sure.

Nice to see more Tool fans in here <3