Press Start in Reno NV has one set up and playing.
(Topic ID: 310125)
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Cactus Canyon (Remake - LE)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2021-
Cactus Canyon (Remake - Special Edition Plus)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2021
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Cactus Canyon (Remake - Special Edition)
Chicago Gaming Co., 2021
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1 week later
Quoted from LTG:Mine is in a trailer at R&L and won't be unloaded until tonight.
Friday is the big day !
LTG : )
Unboxing video highlights? Maybe a how-to, for the newbies.
Quoted from TeamUp:Looks like he also got the mine cart and train tracks!
Lucky dog
Just needs a topper and its an LE !!!
Quoted from Vino:I always thought you had a direct line.
[quoted image]
BAT PHONE ! ! ! !
Quoted from LTG:Menu video.
LTG : )
Thanks for the great video!
Also, its great to hear all the background noise for a busy location!
Quoted from jfh:For those that have prior CGC games - how are the pinballs that ship with them?
I’m used to the junk balls Stern ships and just replace them out of the gate.
I buy them in bulk and just run them in the polisher for 4 days.
Then they become "super Shiny", or ninja balls for 88 cents each.
Its best to just buy them from the same place they get them, lol:
they come with an excellent "Mirror" finish, you dont have to polish them.
you should always replace them before 500 plays, to protect the playfield, so get enough that you can just throw them away when needed.
Or split the order with a friend!
Quoted from paynemic:Are those non-magnetizing balls?
Yes, always get carbon steel.
Dont ever get chrome ones for games with magnets. Some games dont like them and they magnetize quickly.
Quoted from Hop721:What polisher do you use, out of curiosity? And what medium?
Vibrating polisher from harbor freight or berry's.
Walnut media with a small amount of Flitz added maybe 2 tablespoons.
Flitz adds an anti-corrosive so the balls dont rust.
Clean the balls with brake cleaner or naptha.
I use my vacuum bagger (food saver) to keep the balls fresh and rust free in bags of 25.
Quoted from Heavyk:Do you use the 24 grit or the 12 grit walnut from harbor freight?
I like the 12 grit, it ends up finer as you use it on steel.
The 24 breaks down too fast and Im too cheap to replace it often enough.
You can try them both and even mix them if you want.
Walnut is hard stuff but to get a super mirror, you switch to corn cob after a couple days.
I never do, 3 or 4 days is enough for most of the parts in the tumbler and everything looks great without the finishing cycle.
But if you want a true mirror like finish, run it for a few days with corn cob after the walnut cycle.
Quoted from flynnibus:I think the foam insulation cut so it fits at the center of the apron is worth trying. Unfortunately that is a tough spot to reach to put up there everytime you gotta lift the playfield. A more perm solution is desirable that won’t fall off and fades away.
How about a piece of foam glued to a rubber magnet to apply on the apron before raising the playfield?
I have a roll of rubber magnetic strip, I also have blocks of foam packing material.
Quoted from ULEKstore:Made ourselves some 3D printed railroad tracks for our CCr Special Edition today. I think it’s the one thing that we were truly missing from the LE model so had to add ‘em.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think the train-belt gearbox needs a cover on all the games.
Quoted from LTG:You have two switches on the coin door frame. Top one is high power interlock, which cuts high power. Lower one is memory protect - which lets the game know the coin door is open.
What is happening on your game is the same thing as every Williams game with those two switches. High power and memory protect.
High power interlock switch only cuts high power, it doesn't tell the game it did.
Memory protect puts up the coin door warning and high power disabled when you open the coin door.
Go to your game, open coin door, push in lower switch, then the warning goes away. Whether high power interlock is enabled or not.
LTG : )
hold the button in with one of these perhaps:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11791
service switch actuator (resized).jpg
Some games came with them in the goody bag.
I use it on my gottlieb game.
Quoted from LTG:Not needed on the CGC remakes. You can pull out the knob on the high power interlock switch to enable high power. And many of the Williams ( not all if they don't have the knob ) DMD games.
LTG : )
I havent had any trouble at all with my AFMRle, never had to use the little switch actuator.
Its really nice and very well thought out.
My Gottlieb Stargate however, kills the total game power until the button is pressed in. Really bothersome if Im trying to sort out something with the door open.
Heaven forbid you have to retrieve a stuck ball "in-game", opening the door totally kills the game!
However, I love my Stargate!
Quoted from explosiveegg:I thought the System 3 games were the first games to introduce the pull out switches. Have you tried pulling on the white door switch to override that power kill.
LOL, you open the door during a game on a Stargate it immediately kills the power.
Yes you can pull it out for service and testing.
2 weeks later
Quoted from red_rabbit:Anyone else here having to deal with the ball getting nudged between Bart and the side edge? Looks like I could use some tall rubber bumper pad there...
[quoted image]
Maybe dremel off the corner so the ball rolls thru?
20220405_153747 (resized).jpgQuoted from epthegeek:Maaan; I watched the TPF seminar - those new drops are fantastic. I'm envious.
Their use of the "tube" solenoid could be real game changer for new games!
Quoted from sizzler747:Did CGC ship ANY games to Canada yet?
https://www.canadashistory.ca/explore/arts-culture-society/made-in-canada-games-we-play
Quoted from jfh:While I appreciate being spoon fed answers like everyone else, the point of the FAQ is not to quote the FAQ when someone asks an FAQ.
The point of the FAQ is to avoid having the thread cluttered up with the same questions every few pages. It’s my pet peeve about most owner’s threads.
So far I have had only one question I haven’t addressed in the FAQ which is, ironically, “Where can I find the FAQ?”. If I have missed any or existing answers need additional detail, please PM me and I’ll update it.
What does FAQ mean..... 
2 weeks later
Quoted from billsgto:Yes, please be careful. I'm 49 and took it downstairs myself...pulled my back and could barely move for a week! I think it's normally a two person job. The good thing that came out of it is finally buying a motorized hand truck that I should have bought years ago. Live and learn I guess.
[quoted image]
That hand truck looks nice!
which one is it?
Quoted from polishedball:I did not see this ball trap on the faq. This has happened in at least half the games I have played. Bart kicks the ball back into play and it bounces / stops here. Angle of playfield is correct.
Thanks
[quoted image]
Bend the tab just slightly, that the ball is resting on, outwards just enough to get the ball to drop in the hopper?
Lower the power to the kickout?
1 week later
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:I did have a mini post rubber on it, in addition to the faulty nut. It won't stop it. This thing is violent...lol
The "Old West" was a turbulent time....
Quoted from jfh:Says someone who apparently doesn’t understand the concept of an FAQ.
Again, what is a FAQ again? 
Quoted from polishedball:I’ve notice this after just 23 games. I am collecting these odd brownish spots on the playfield. They clean right up but no idea what is causing them. They are most prominent in the area where the train would start. Yes I did fully clean the oil off the pinballs to start. Thoughts?
[quoted image]
Wax the playfield?
Quoted from transprtr4u:Another shot against those who wait
Good things come to those who wait... 
Quoted from Dalewin:I’m in the club and loving it. This pin is awesome and a blast to play! Jazzed it up with alt translight, art blades, shaker motor and some Titan Super shinies. Only things left are invisiglass, train track mod and maybe the topper sometime down the road.
[quoted image]
Lol, good luck on the topper.
Start brushing up on your 3d printing skills....
1 month later
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:It appears my game did not come from the factory with the finishing screw on top of the hexagonal post near Bart (see photo). I just noticed this after a few months of ownership. Anyone know the correct size and style screw that belongs in that spot? Many thanks.[quoted image]
I should have a plastic disc on top of that post possibly.
The originals had one...
Quoted from Damonator:So the legs are digging into the decal even with the protector?
I've seen that with plastic leg protectors but not the metal ones. Can you tell if the metal protector has sunk into the wood a bit?
Replace the thin CGC leg protectors with the mantis ones.
They are twice as thick.
Maybe order them before you get your game.
I stock them in my shop for resto's
Quoted from Shapeshifter:One of the solutions for R&M was to put two metal protectors on each leg because they are so thin.
If the leg touches the cabinet, wrinkles will eventually appear.
This is true if you have extra sets of the thin ones in your tool box.
But if you have to order them, just get the Mantis ones. And get a couple sets for future use.
Quoted from Damonator:I looked for a thread on how to repair decal bubbles and didn't find one. Someone post a link if there is one - I'm curious if a hair dryer would actually work. My experience when removing decals is that they become brittle when heated - but I'm using a heat gun so maybe less heat would be different.
A hair dryer will actually work.
The wrinkled areas are fresh and can be moved a bit to put them back into place.
Mostly after careful warming you can slide them over with a thumb.
Quoted from MacGruber:All well and good but what are they doing about the actual problem sounds like putting new wipers on a broken windshield! Are they sending new legs?? Or still trying to get to the bottom of it?
The problem occurs when the legs are pressed on the brake.
Too much pressure and the legs go past 90 degrees.
The machinist didnt take the time to check one out of every 100 or so. The operator only does what the machinist told him/her.
Basically stamp them all and fill the rack.
This is not the first occurrence of this and probably not the last.
When Spooky encountered this problem they put the ends of the legs in a vise over a block of wood (2 by 4) and widened them a bit to make them a little over 90 degrees.
The machine shop would do the same over a piece of oak 4 by 4.
With a little care and attention to detail (like wrapping the leg end if its painted) this is a 5 min fix.
Check you legs before installing them against a square.
They should be slightly over 90 degrees to be proper.
Quoted from Zukidog:I was thinking the same earlier today while reading this thread and was curious what that might do to any clearcoating on the LE's... might it crack and chip the clear?
Wrap the leg with something heavy like a moving blanket.
The finishes are so new they will flex a bit before cracking.
Powder coat is also just a paint and gets harder with time.
Rip a nice piece of triangle stock off an old oak pallet 4 by 4.
It only has to be 8" long or so.
This operation does not require too much precision.
I really like the idea of just using regular playfield hex head screws, instead of the counter sunk tiny flatheads, on the metal leg protectors.
This should give plenty of clearance and force the leg open a bit by just simply tightening the leg bolts.
Magically (or mechanically relieving the bend), the leg will open up and not gouge the cabinet.
This will not over stress the nut plate or harm it in any way. They are plenty strong.
Its a simple and elegant solution.
Thanks Chris H. !
I wouldn't hesitate to do this on any of my high end restorations.
Sending in the legs or demanding replacements is just silly with this simple fix.
Quoted from PM_Jeremy:Thank you for those who warned about the leg crimp/decal damaging issue. I made a video about the hex head screw fix.
Yes! A simple elegant fix.
Problem solved.
Again, thanks Chris Hutchens for your incredible depth of knowledge and support!
Quoted from CGC-Ryan:Hi Guys,
I am currently going through the thread and looking at all the issues posted here.
We strive to address every issue before it reaches your home.
I am looking into each and every one of the issues you have brought up here in the thread, and we are working to come up with resolutions.
Please feel free to Private Message me with any questions you have; and I will be happy to address them on an individual basis
Ryan
Maybe put the hex screws in the leg protectors on the games, until the legs are made properly by the vendor, while they are on the line.
The legs have been sketchy for years now...
Replace the screws? Problem solved.
Quoted from MaxIsDead:I don’t really care who is to blame in the supply chain. I opened my game and installed the legs and my decals are now ruined. CGC packaged it and shipped it, so it’s on them.
Sending me new decals really isn’t a fix. We all know those stay rolled up in a sleeve forever.
Leg bubbles can be pressed out pretty easily, especially if they are fresh.
Install a couple hex screws, you are good to go.
Expecting perfection in an imperfect world will lead to madness, get over it.
Mantis has larger leg protectors to cover the slight decal distortion if you need....
Its pinball, not cabinet....Play the game.
Quoted from MaxIsDead:As I wake up this morning I realize I am still bitter. Bitter about my ruined decals. Yep, I am still bitter about it.
Sell it and buy another one, from what you claim, you can afford it.
2 weeks later
Should be standard:
27" x 18 7 /8" x 1/8" thick
Clear tempered.
NO-LOGO
sanded edges
I buy it from my local glass company and have bought many at this size.
Fits perfectly.
Shop around a lot.
The place that has the tempering oven is the cheapest
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Playfield_Glass_Sizes
Quoted from jfh:The screw fix is the primary recommendation in the FAQ already. I’ll add some additional comments later today.
Maybe add a couple washers under the screw head as needed.
Quoted from flynnibus:why hasn't anyone just stacked the metal protectors? Seems the most direct approach. Stack to get flat uniform stand-off... and be done with it.
Mantis has wider protectors that go outside the leg.
https://mantispinball.com/product/misc-leg-protector-overlap/
These might help, but the leg might smash them too and still hurt the cabinet.
I think the screws and washers has the most merit right now.
Quoted from thekaiser82:I got to see it up close with the glass off at TPF and it is really nice being solid wood. Looks really nice in person.
In on the LE. Its gonna be epic!
CGC forever !
(Yes. Ive been drinking...)
2 weeks later
I waited 3 years for my ECLEWOZ from a company that was unproven and unknown.
$6500 was a lot of money for a game that no one had seen yet.
I waited 2 more years for meaningful code updates.
What a masterpiece in the end.
This wait is nothing IMHO...
I will never sell it...
Quoted from GreenMachine19:This is the downside of having one gigantic board under the playfield. Lose one component and you are likely f-ed.
Its not that bad of a repair.
The question is what caused it?
1 week later
Quoted from ClassicHornet:With the pineapple still wedged pretty tight; and the issues are more than a few, I’m seriously considering backing out of this one, I’ll just continue to restore 90’s B/W to new. The longer this goes on; the less interested I become…..& at the moment I really couldn’t give a fuck wether I get it or not !
ClassicHornet no more...
Gotta change your handle to:
@inittoloseit
1 week later
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:Just got mirrored BG today from my distributor. I know that installing it is just a matter of taking the four trim pieces off the existing lightbox, removing the translite and replacing it with the mirrored BG but I have heard that reinstalling the trim can be a pain. Any tips or tricks? (I reviewed the FAQ but nothing mentioned as to any tips / tricks for this particular install). Thanks!
The existing trim is supposed to fit properly per PPS.
CPR translite to backglass conversions are another story altogether. On those you have to trade out the trim for system 11 trim from pinballlife.com
Quoted from Mrsiyufy:Better yet just put it on a crate like Whoa Nellie.
Better yet, just put it on the floor and lie down while playing!
Standing up to play is overrated...
Quoted from Av8:Guys this is going to happen. Get a razor blade and cut it along the shape of the leg. So it stops the wrinkling. Buy felt protectors or mylar it if you must.
I just press the leg out, a bit over a piece of pipe with my press, you can use a vise too (I've done it that way before). Takes literally 30 seconds....
These over-formed legs have been around for years now...not real news, but something to be aware of.
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:Agreed, this is not a big deal with the chrome legs. A: because I have plenty of extras laying around and B: because it's an easy fix to press them open in my bench vise. I'm more concerned about the PC'd legs on my LE needing the same remedy and potentially cracking the finish when I do it.
Powder Coat is just a paint similar to automotive paint.
I has some flex to it. Placing a half inch or so of thick towels over the top to protect the finish should work.
You only have to open the angle 1/4" or slightly more.
I was thinking of using 2 1/2" or 3" PVC pipe or a coupling (next time I see this), with old leg bolts over nylon washers in the leg holes (thru the pipe a bit).
You can press on the leg bolts and avoid the thick towels (or do both).
This is my plan coming up.
Quoted from Pinkitten:Strange how after all these years they still manufacture these without any gap or tolerance at the corners. It doesn’t happen on every game, but I have 2 new games with this, Halloween and CCr. Great suggestion to widen the gap tho, thanks!
I also suggest using a small square to check the legs before installing them (its what I do).
They should be about 1/8" beyond the 90 degree angle. Less is ok, but there is a slight curve to the area.
Quoted from gorditas:Powder coat is nothing like paint.
Hmmm, dried paint cooked onto the surface?
Quoted from Pinkitten:Understood, thanks. It’s that area just below the bolts, where the sides come in toward the cab. I assume for either strength or aesthetics, but that’s where the pinching happens. This is on my Halloween, but it’s on my CCr also.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yep, its best to open up the lower bolt area a bit more than the upper bolt area due to the curve, or just do both for esthetics.
Quoted from gorditas:Paint is a thermoset, powdercoat is a thermoplastic. You expressed a misconception. This isn't an argument. Isn't the purpose of this forum to help people find factual information and results?
Yes there are small differences, although you can powder coat in thermoset also.
Both can be sanded and polished, although you can reuse powder coat dust over and over again, unlike paint.
Some simple answers here:
3 weeks later
Quoted from jfh:I guess I don’t understand your point.
Yes. Those connectors are to connect the topper cables. You absolutely can physically install a topper on an SE. But that means nothing if code verifies whether you can actually use it with the game.
Its very easy to put security on the LE topper to keep it limited.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Redliner911:I want to know who is going to come up with a Polly figurine tied to the end of the tracks
Or maybe a horse, or anyone tied to the track lol:
1 week later
Quoted from PPS:PPS is not worried, we are annoyed, but not worried.
LOL ! That made me chuckle.
Quoted from LTG:unleash another round crap
Pinside cannot be stopped.
Its an immutable force of whining, bitching, nit-picking, back biting and negative social discourse (when it wants to be):
Quoted from transprtr4u:No straight answers
Evidently there are straight answers:
https://ptv.org/shop/straight-answers-tough-questions-ch-1-9/
Quoted from jfh:to those that like to create drama
I personally am shocked to hear that Pinside contains drama....
To all the back-biters:
It's nice to be important, but it's MORE important to be nice!
Take this to heart, it will serve you well.
Quoted from MooButt:Flippers are ruining the hobby
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/show-us-your-flipperless-pinball-machines
Quoted from cjpins:Knocker hooked up and working !!
Did a "double take", I thought it read "Hooker knocked up"....
Quoted from undrdog:Then it doesn’t need to be shaking like that. Seems to be in place. Is there a trick to getting it in right?
Pinball life has friction tape that you can apply in a couple 2" strips at the corner edges, top or bottom, to kill the shaking.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:my game rattles as well..but it's not on the backglass..it's at the top of playfield glass that meets the back plastic channel..You need to source the rattle, because it is deceiving where the rattle 'actually' is. lol, I don't have a fix for mine yet, other than throwing my Distro's business card, shoved in between the pf glass and that top plastic channel the glass sits in. Have a friend or fam push down on the pf glass, backglass, all the spots you think it's coming from, when playing a game (to pinpoint where the rattle is) . then McGuiver that sh$t.
Slide a piece of nylon wire tie with the head cut off between the wooden cabinet edge and the plastic glass channel. Push it in with a kntfe blade until its invisible.
This will tighten up the glass channel enough so that the glass doesnt rattle.
You can put it in a couple areas as needed.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:ok, it must be early for me, because I don't know what 'nylon wire tie' is..you mean zip-tie? eh? it has a head, lol.
Yeah, wire tie, cable tie, zip tie... you get the idea.
Start with a smaller one 4" maybe, it doesnt have to be too thick, or even very long. A 1" piece works well enough
I also put them in to keep the glass from sliding out to easily.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:Thinking of selling my SE, if anyone might be interested..in WA 98577. PM for details. Delete if not allowed here.
Place an ad in the marketplace!
Quoted from mtp78:Do they have saloon doors ?????
That could be the hardware element alluded to in the 2.0 code update/upgrade down the road?
Quoted from Hayfarmer:https://nitropinball.com/products/interior-cabinet-game-blade-protector-set
I never lift anymore without these. Worth the 35 bucks cuz I've damaged blades before
Also from Pinball life:
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html
What a BEAUTIFUL game! Near perfection!
Lets see how soon people crap all over them with silly mods and such...
Quoted from KING-HENRY:L O L. Silly mods? Come on man, give a few of us some due credit! I’ve done some VERY tasteful mods that don’t subtract but add to the xp. ‘There’s still hope left’. Don’t jab at the good modders!
Tasteful and what looks factory is alright by me. Its gotta look factory, or Im out...
Gluing a bunch of Ebay dolls. or adding signs all over the place is just stupid IMHO...
(Yes, Ive had 3 kirkland scotches by now...)
Quoted from sizzler747:If CGC does end up doing another remake it probably wouldn't be for a few years. They are supposedly doing a small run of MMR SE after the CCR and then supposedly doing a machine of their own. I hear rumors of Pulp Fiction theme.
Pee Wee's Playhouse...
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:This is probably not going to go over well, but I'll say it. The topper mini game looks pretty blah.....
The topper itself is well done and looks great. Just the fact that Bart moves and is interactive is pretty awesome, but I see the mini game getting old quite fast.
I dont think that's the point.
I think the point is, that it's interactive at all, and integrated into the existing code.
Everyone has expensive static displays. I can throw an old shoe box on top of a game and probably sell it....
This makes it somewhat ground breaking.
Quoted from KING-HENRY:Might have to merge games. Lol. I doubt you need one on CGC games. Mine do not show any wear. (About 500 plays on my SE and about 800+ on MMrLE your time traveling may vary* PS. Funny you mention this because I have wear on a brand new GotG with less than 200 plays! Clearcoat chipped and now wood is bruised. Not happy with that. But that crew seems to think ‘that’s the norm’
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Quoted from KING-HENRY:too much work I can, or want to work on a new machine (or any machine) at the moment..I'll probably just throw a chunk of Mylar in the lane, and just cut my losses. What's done is done, and actually, I didn't touch the PF at all..it just ended up like this..under 200 plays..But I'll take your advice for the future! K, back OT. (and thank you for chiming in!)
Easy to fix.
Carefully paint the area with this stuff, after loosening and sanding down the old clear a little with 400 sand paper, so there is no edge. Tape off the area so you get a clean line
Self leveling, no hardener, can use a brush.
Bonds to existing clearcoat and will not delaminate like other clears.
People have rolled it onto cars with a roller and had impressive results.
Its pretty amazing for touchups:
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear.html
https://www.google.com/search?q=diamond+finish+video#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:7fc21db5,vid:3MrgJ8AW69E
Quoted from insight75:Sara has been great with communication. She was the best part of the process.
MMR.....will this be a version with topper? Anyone know?
Yes, with animated knights battling with swords.
Quoted from brickbuilder14:Hey, which are known as the best pinballs to buy? Ninja balls?
https://ballbaron.com/product/ninja-super-shiny-chrome-pinball-g10/
Just buy them in bulk so you can replace them frequently to protect the playfield:
https://www.bcprecision.com/products/1-1-16-inch-chrome-steel-ball-bearings-g500?variant=6193283397
get them 25 or 50 at a time, your playfield with thank you.
replace the balls every 350-400 plays
Quoted from Hayfarmer:I've always used precision balls, but had to return last 2 orders. Know a few others who have as well. First return was rusty, second was for sending the wrong ones, I ordered super shiny and recieved the dullest I've ever seen. Hope they get their act together
I havent had any trouble with them, but I order 100-200 at a time.
Theres a couple other vendors I like too. Its just a matter of price.
I have bought them for as little as 25 cents a ball.
But I run them in my polisher with a little Flitz and them vacuum bag them 25 at a a time. This seems to preserve them forever.
They make them by the millions, I imagine they can set a long time and get rusty.
Im curious if you can request them to be shiny and not rusted?
I mean the picture looks very shiny?
All of mine have been really good.
If you have 10 or 20 games, 250 balls can get used up pretty quick if you play your games.
It might be human nature to prey upon each other when there is nothing to prey upon...or out of boredom.
But, its just not necessary.
Such is pinside (an internet version of "Lord of the Flies").
Quoted from midcoastsurf:Tell me more - to clean the channel? Glass rattle?
It works surprisingly well and is invisible.
Quoted from AssaultSuit:I just got a SE in last night and I ordered a replay knocker from Planetary and a wire harness from P1nhead ahead of time, which I've already soldered together.
It was only today that I found information about a diode needed on a coil of this type to protect the board from power spikes. In reading through this thread the only mention I can find is that there is no diode on this knocker but people are using it anyway without issues?
I'm not eager to risk this rather pricey toy. Can anyone out there confirm why it is safe to use without a diode, or if it really is important for safety what I should be ordering?
Thanks, and happy to be a sheriff in training!
Williams standard knockers do NOT require a diode (its on the driver board), nor are they polarized (it doesnt matter where the wires go on the coil).
1 week later
Quoted from midcoastsurf:One of my two wing-head backbox bolts broke in two. Didn’t feel I was using excessive torque. Been doing this for 25+ years and never broke one. Appears to be two pieces welded together? Anyone else experience this? I though these were a one piece design…but maybe those are from PBL.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The Gottlieb ones are lower width and are solid "one piece".
These new 2 piece ones break pretty easy, its been mentioned before on other threads.
Quoted from LTG:Please see Rick's post #175 in this thread - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ltg-loyd-appreciation-axed-after-9-yrs-by-ruthless-jjp/page/4
They know.
Which is why I'm glad to be with the company that loves me.
LTG : )
Pinballgoddess and I still think that you are lovable !
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:How in the name of the lord are you playing with flippers at -3 ?! My flippers were sub par at best with stock settings.
Poorly? Or the pitch is at 2 degrees?
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:I already explained it. Pitch is set at 6.5 degrees. Plays great but thanks for assuming.
Lol...just having fun with silly questions!
Quoted from explosiveegg:I do have to get used to the flipper feel a bit more as they feel a little foreign to me.
You know...they are adjustable...
Just sayin'...
Quoted from midcoastsurf:Thanks for the pics! It feels like the rubbing is inside the shooter housing. I’ll have to lift up the playfield and see if it still drags. Almost like there is no nylon sleeve in the housing (but I can see there is one).
I put a little dry lube on my shooter rods.
PTFE spray like tri-lube that dries out completely.
This works really well.
Sometimes the washers will bind a little or are rusty. Replacing them or running a drill bit thru them helps a lot.
Quoted from pinballjah:Those with an LE, this alternative color LE edition plate is available in my store. Thanks.
[quoted image]
I like that a LOT better.
2 weeks later
Quoted from jfh:An hour? More like 15 minutes.
I was in the very front right next to Rick. Overwhelming and unexpected demand for sure. Never seen anything like it. Puts all other release announcements to shame.
CCR Le was the same, sold out in a very short time.
I'm lucky to have ordered one. Without the help of Sara at PPS, I would have been SOL.
Quoted from NightTrain:Is anyone else thoroughly confused by CGCs choice to not powder coat the shooter housing on the LE. Sticks out like a sore thumb. I can live with the coin door, but this looks like crap.
[quoted image]
I think it matches the silver star on the left.
Looks ok to me.
Maybe coat it yellow to match the start button and flipper buttons?
Quoted from Ballderdash:10 LE’s in the marketplace for anyone looking to support their favorite flipper.
MV5BMTc3NTM4NTMwOF5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMjM1Mjg4NA@@._V1_ (resized).jpg
1 week later
Quoted from LTG:What kind of lift is that ?
LTG : )
Looks like the craftsman ATV lift with the added-on pinball basket.
Quoted from NicoVolta:Awwwww just missed the 10,000th post. :p
Anyway, if you were wondering what size nut you’ll need for the beer target, it’s a standard 2-56. Metric will not work.
Ace Hardware has them. Home Depot/Lowes will not.
Would recommend getting two of them, attached together. My original locknut stripped off, even with blue loctite.
[quoted image]
Or, for extra bonus mode drill and attach a rubber stopper with the nuts underneath…
[quoted image]
Looks like a job for a new nylock nut, posisbly with a jam nut also:
https://www.amazon.com/2-56-Coarse-UNC-Stainless-MonsterBolts/dp/B07NPT6D9K/ref=sr_1_3
Quoted from EZ-Rhino:So I finally got to adjusting my CCr right flipper and after doing do using the flipper spacer gauge tool from pinball life noticed that the left flipper seemingly sits higher than the right one. Note that I hadn't ever adjusted the left one since it left the factory. Also, prior to adjusting the right flipper, the gap between the playfield and the bottom of the flipper bat appeared higher on the left side as well.
After adjusting the right flipper I attempted to adjust the left flipper using the same gap tool and the height in the picture is what resulted. There's a bunch more up and down play in the flipper mech on the left versus the right side (i.e., you have more "play" to pull up and down on the left versus the right side) but again, I gapped each side using the same tool so shouldn't they sit at the same height off of the playfied? At this point, I'm not sure why the left side seemingly sits higher off of the playfield than the right side. Any thoughts on this?
[quoted image]
Lots of things can be different between the 2 flipper mechs.
One bat is lightly molded crooked? The one on the left has a curve molded into it.
Order a couple more and match them up.
More play in one of the pawls?
More play in one of the plunger links?
More play in one of the coil sleeves?
One of the flipper bushings is slightly different?
You would have fully disassemble both mechs and compare the affected parts side by side.
Of simply lower the higher bat, and raise the lower one to split the difference?
Regardless of what the flipper tool says, the center of the flipper rubber should hit "around" (or near) the center of the ball.
1 week later
Quoted from Indusguys:Not that I’m aware.
Canada is so far away, and its cold up there...
But they do have Poutine, so its not all bad...
Quoted from badfish981:Hey everyone, glad some of you are getting your LE’s! I’ve got a SE and I’m still having issues with the beer mug switch. Admittedly I’m new to the hobby but I’m having a hell of a time trying to figure this out. I’ve read the FAQ in the beginning of the thread and any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
So, what exactly do you want to fix?
Quoted from marioparty34:Quick question... I am trying to install a real knocker. Does it matter what wire goes to which terminal?
[quoted image][quoted image]
If there is no diode on a coil, the answer is no.
Its just a spool of wire, there is no direction to it.
Coils without diodes can be wired in either direction.
1 week later
Quoted from Agent_Hero:I poked all around the Mine mechanism area and don't see anything that activates in switch test as "Switch 15 Mine Entrance" as identified in the manual and what the game is asking me to check as a tech alert. Where is switch 15? I also had ran the switch test that cycles thorough switches automatically but it doesn't activate that. I can find the switch in the list when cycling through all switches, but again, I haven't found anything that activates as switch 15.
[quoted image]
Is the 1998 manual the same as the current setup?
There may be some subtle differences on the remake.
Quoted from fstfish66:QUESTION,, is the beer mug suppost to lite up ? thanks
Quoted from LTG:Answer,, no.
LTG : )
Lol, how would you even do it?
Quoted from SlapDrain:I had some gold filament I wanted to make use of so I went with it… but I really never thought of it that way. Haha
Maybe re-do the model to have gold nuggets?
I think the gold looks nice.
Quoted from kidchrisso:Just gave up my LE spot with Planetary...they should have an extra for sale.
Lots of people waiting in line.
Your spot should be filled immediately!
Quoted from EDUB919:Does anyone else’s dog try to turn their pinball machine legs into a fire hydrant??? I didn’t find a fix for this in the FAQs.
No, but if I leave the coin door open, the cabinet becomes a kitty house.
Quoted from Lateralus:#374 is home. Plays great out of the box, so far. Love this game and FINALLY have one!
Shout out to my buddy, JD! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Need a stool for the cat, it cant reach the flipper buttons!
Quoted from Golgotha:I went with a smaller scale bone colored. For the same price I got a bag of 5. I like the more subtle size. If anyone only wants one, I will send you one for $5. I only need 2. PM me.
[quoted image]
PM sent!
Quoted from Soulrider911:Thought I would share the final version. The mount is reversible so you can mount it to either side of your game… and if you get bored you can move it to the other side [quoted image]
I think it should be like a spittoon!
Quoted from Ballderdash:[quoted image]
I’ll save jfh the time
There's a FAQ section ????????
Quoted from Golgotha:But I could not find any printed instructions for Topper game play. The video say it is set at 10 and not changeable. That is incorrect.
Yes, its incorrect.
Quoted from JMK:Jnuch: Nice collection! What happened to your plaque on your TAFG?
Enjoy your CCR LE!
Not a true TAFG, no buy in button, but a really nice resto.
Quoted from mycarlooksfast:If anyone needs a knocker cable, PM me. I have an unused one that I no longer need since I sold the game. $8 shipped to lower 48.
PM sent.
Quoted from Ballderdash:Polly is getting bound and gagged more than average.
Possibly some sort of leather halter? If she is "that" into it....
Quoted from northvibe:Ya mine was so flipping tight. Had to work it pf and then bend out the lips
Use lube for that..... 
Quoted from moonraker:What is the correct arm orientation for barts arms during gunfight and topper fight? Also at other points during gameplay.Here’s a video of me starting a game and his left arm just kinda goes up half way. Both sometimes point at me but then one will be down and other up looking weird.
[quoted image]
Might be loose?
Quoted from Gogdog:So...it didn't take long, I took an orbital sander to both sides of the plastic coinbox to file it down a bit (like...40 seconds a side or something) and it fixed it. Odd that I had to do it at all but was an easy fix.
I submitted a ticket to CGC about the continually rotating arm on the topper and will see what they say.
Sounds like the lids are slightly out of spec.
The plastic box is "off the shelf" so, I dont think that they have any problems.
Quoted from Gogdog:The metal lid fits on my other coinboxes...I think the plastic is out of spec (they probably got a new batch of plastic coinboxes and they are slightly too wide).
Edit: Actually.....no it doesn't. I must have previously tested it on the one coinbox it kind of fits on. It is tight on all of the others...so yeah the metal lid is probably what is out of spec.
Since the plastic box is injection molded, I figured the die for it was well tested and probably ok.
Bent sheet metal can always be slightly off if the machinist isnt very careful or takes shortcuts.
Quoted from audihere:Measuring bottom of cabinet inside to inside I get 20-1/2”.
I removed the lockdown bar on my MM and the glass is only able to shift side to side in the channels way less than 1/8”.
On my CCr, the glass can shift side to side 1/4” over the entire length of the cabinet.
I know that you shouldnt have to do this, and its clearly a CGC F#ck up but:
The siderails should be easy to remove if they didnt tape them on. Check with CGC to be sure. Otherwise it takes a little more work.
Inspect the glass channel.
Its likely that one or both are malformed, missing the flange, staples fell out or missing, or something wrong.
1/4" is a lot of space. to make up
With it all apart you can either reposition the glass channels or replace them.
I dont staple the plastic glass channels on any more, as the staples dont hold in the end grain of the plywood.
I just use 5 of the #4 little wood screws (that you use on ramp flaps) spaced out somewhat equally, on each side.
Quoted from audihere:The plastic channels for the pf glass have an extrusion that positions them in a groove routed into the cabinet's side panels. So, I don't think I'd be able to just move the channels inwards a little to hold the glass properly. Maybe those grooves are cut too far apart?
Anything is possible. CGC would know more about it.
If thats the case there are many more out there from the same batch.
Your cabinet dimensions are spot on, so that leads to only the plastic glass channel being defective or the cut groove in the wood being off.
You should be able to slightly see the glass channel from the front to get a measurement from the inside channel slot to the opposing inside channel slot, and perhaps measure in a couple places.
Quoted from Gogdog:Once you start using invisiglass....you won't go back and will be forced to use it forever.
Just waiting for another invisiglass sale, then POUNCE on it....
Quoted from audihere:I don't think the 1/16" wider inside to inside cabinet measurement of 20-9/16” would make such a large difference.
Here's 2 pics of the location of my groove that positions the plastic channel in the cabinet sides.[quoted image][quoted image]
I just measured a T2 cabinet.
I get 0.335 on both sides.
I measured a TAF cabinet.
I get 0.325 both sides
Thats a combined difference, from my games to yours of about 0.050 or about 1/20" if my math is good.
This doesnt add up to 1/4 that you are looking for.
Is the glass channel missing on one side?
Slot to slot, Im getting 21 3/32" to 21 1/18"
Quoted from audihere:Glass channel is on both sides.
I measured the Scared Stiff next to it and it was .36” also on both sides with 20.5” inside to inside cabinet.
I did notice there’s a big chamfer/bevel on the inside edge of the wood on both sides. Pics below. This bevel is what my glass falls onto when it falls out of one side’s plastic channel.
I measured this chamfer at 0.096” wide. Pic attached. So, it’s 20-9/16” plus 2 X 0.096” to where the channels support the bottom of the glass. That’s 20.754”.
The glass is 21” wide. That only leaves 1/8” per side of glass being supported by the channels (if it didn’t fall out of one side every time I put it in). [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
None of my games have this big chamfered edge.
What is the measurement of the glass channel slot, "slot to slot" across the cabinet?
This measurement would tell if the glass will fit or not.
If this measurement is out of spec, you will have to add a nylon spacer strip inside of one of the glass channels.
It wouldnt have to go the entire length, just maybe 12" or so. 4 or 6" might also work.
I think it can be installed neatly and fixed with a little CA gel glue on a trimmed q-tip in the glass channel.
I read of one other instance of this.
The owner applied big zip-ties to the inside of the glass channel.
It was enough to keep the glass from falling out.
Quoted from audihere:Here’s what my glass looks like when it falls off one side. It’s sitting outside of the plastic channel on top of the wooden bevel.
[quoted image]
For the moment, and while awaiting a resolution
Go ahead and put 2 or 3 big zip-ties in the glass channel after you slide the glass in.
You can leave the heads on the ties for easy removal.
Then you can at least play your game and not worry about the glass falling out.
Quoted from audihere:Good idea. I placed long 1/8” diameter skewers all along the left and right sides. They have to be in place before the glass slides in, otherwise the glass falls out to one side.
[quoted image]
Great solution! I agree that this is total BS (I would be totally LIVID!!!), but you gotta do what you gotta do.
It will take months for a resolution.
Now play the f#ck out of the game...
Quoted from jfh:You won’t regret buying it.
I regret buying my first pinball machine...
Now I have 20....
They sprout up faster than the dandelions in my grass...
1 week later
Quoted from Knapp_Arcade:Where in the article did I say anything negative about Cactus Canyon, Chicago Gaming Company or the extended code? I hate to break it to you, but I'm one of the least negative people who write or talk about the hobby. I often get criticized for not being hard enough on manufacturers. All I said was that the code isn't close to being ready and I believe that to be true. I reported exactly what happed, nothing more, nothing less. Sheesh. Tough crowd.
This is Pinside.
We are immune to rationality, logic and common sense...
Quoted from transprtr4u:got a project Addams for Sale ???????
Lol, Not yet.
But a restored one coming up!
Quoted from LingBot:I've tried stretching the original spring and replacing with the flipper return spring and neither one helped the problem of direct shots not knocking the bad guy down. It mostly happens with the left center one, but I've had it happen with all 4. I submitted a ticket in February and haven't heard anything.
Is the mech too close to the rear edge of the slot?
Does the target drop with a finger?
Loosen it and try to ease it forward a tiny bit.
Quoted from LingBot:The target drops with a finger or anytime I roll a ball at it. It's just powerful direct shots that fail. I can try shifting it forward a tiny bit and see if that helps. Thanks!
If it wont move forwards, you can open up the holes in the metal mounting plate that mounts the assembly to the wooden playfield, with a slightly larger sized drill bit, slightly like 1/32" or 0.5mm more.
A little is a lot.
Just got my paid invoice:
#608 is on its way !!!!!
Now, someone PLEASE buy my Houdini (im selling it BELOW market value)!
Im selling it to make room for my new game.
PM me if you want it.
Marketplace ad coming soon.
Pictures added to my Houdini for sale listing:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/156581
I just got the call, my game will be delivered next thurday or the following monday.
BUY MY HOUDINI! I need the ROOM!
Quoted from SlapDrain:Damn i wish you were closer... GLWS
Make me an offer! I was thinking about a Mandalorian Pro NIB for trade, its the same value?
Quoted from mcvetyty:Yes, many people... There have also been some sales on Pinside marketplace. They are $270 initially from distributors, and then I've seen them sell on the marketplace for $300-$350.
Im not selling my...precioussssss.......shiny glass. lol.
It does look really great.
Quoted from Golgotha:Cactus Canyon
Polly in Peril Mod
Instant association with Polly on the back glass.
Comes mounted on clear acrylic.
Does not interfere with Mezel Mod River Rescue.
Only 20 available!
~ $75.00 ~
Includes shipping to lower 48 states.
First 20 to secure payment.
PM me (Golgotha) on Pinside
or email at [email protected]
[quoted image]
Would look MUCH better with Satin clear vs gloss.
Quoted from Golgotha:That is very interesting because our marketing research group voted 4 to 1 for gloss over satin clear.
Some said satin made Polly look "cheap". I guess there is 1 in every crowd.
That is likely true.
I dont like Rad-Cals either, too glossy.
Quoted from Mully911:Hey all,
Here is the new mirrored back glass I just got... Still on the fence if it was worth $300.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I love it! Worth every penny!
Quoted from Mully911:Who is the girl bandelero pictured in the back glass art? Is she part of the game?
[quoted image]
Female Bart.
Quoted from SimplePin:Hopefully they add her with the new code.
That would be really cool!
Quoted from Only_Pinball:She has aged quite a bit from the wild west days.
[quoted image]
She was quite the handful back in the day...
Quoted from Golgotha:OK, embarrassing question. After playing a mess of games on my CCLE a friend came over and commented that it played hyper fast. I said I was so excited about playing I just raised the back legs a bit and played. Well I just measured the pitch and I wanted to set it to the Manual spec of 6.5 or 7. It was at 14!
I know this sounds lame but I can't seem to adjust the legs to get near 7 degrees. Normally games have the rear levelers extended more and the fronts shorter. That was when at 14 degrees. I then bottomed the rears and raised the fronts. I was able to get down to 12. What the heck is wrong? I have never had this happen before. This is my first NIB game. I would think lowering rear vs front should not make a difference. All 4 legs have the same protectors so that is not a factor. The legs are all the same right?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Others are not having too much trouble with this.
Is the floor terribly uneven?
Are you mesuring on the playfield, not on the glass?
You cant possibly set it right by measuring off the glass, it will be WAY off.
I wont have my game until next week, so Im probably of little help.
Quoted from binary01:Well my game arrived a couple of days ago, and I have to say I’m excited for those waiting - it’s a beautiful machine! Being my first new game, I took my time going thru it checking connectors and removing any dust from inside the back box and cabinet before plugging it in and playing it last night. I ordered cabinet game blade protectors to eliminate possibility of scratching the artwork, and won’t raise the playfield again until I get them. That being said, here’s what happened last night. I looked in the FAQ section and it wasn’t addressed, and I’m not sure if its anywhere in previous comments. On my final game, I lost a ball - I think it was the second one. It was flying across from the bash toy area towards the right, somewhere under the track area. I took my eyes off of it for a second, and it was gone! Then I heard a thud, thinking ok, it dropped into the cabinet. After several unsuccessful ball searches, the game goes into a neat feature I read about in the manual - ball chase, where the next ball is launched to continue gameplay rather than search endlessly for a lost ball. As I don’t want to raise the playfield, I opened the coin door today and used a telescopic mirror to find the ball. Sure enough, it rolled down and is rested on the upper side of the power supply. Any ideas on how this could have happened?
Flipper power too high.
Quoted from SkaterVet:Too odd/good not to post. Played Cactus Canyon tonight for the very first time on my buddy’s new machine. Beat it on my first ball. Beginners luck for sure! For perspective,
I’ve owned MM and MB since they were first released and have yet to beat either one.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe tighten up the settings a bit, open the outlanes etc.
Clear the high score and try again.
A game thats too easy is no fun. I has to be challenging but not impossible.
The defaults are pretty liberal.
Several people have changed the settings to harder, and limited the extra balls.
I had the same trouble with Theater of Magic.
Finished the game on ball one with a 4 billion score on a 3 ball game.
Tightening it up a bit made it a lot more fun.
Quoted from binary01:Then its not something that happens very rarely, as your average so far is 1 ball in the cabinet every 50 games - I think my game has less than three dozen games on it so far. I’m going to add a piece of wood, maybe 3/4” x 3/4” - won't know until I measure. I don’t think it needs to go all the way across, because there’s much less chance of a ball going over the top on the left side above the pop bumpers. I haven’t noticed the issue like you’re having with the center ramp, but will keep an eye out for it and see if it happens. You might want to add a couple of washers under the plastic ramp cover to the two bolts to raise it slightly. It might be the case that the flippers are too strong. I’m going to try turning the power down on mine - the pitch seems good, the game plays fast, and the ball makes it up all ramp shots easily. I want to try and reduce air balls, and the potential to break plastics.
On ramps, a basic strategy, properly adjusted:
From a cradled position the ball should moderately, but easily, make it up the ramp and then let gravity take over and roll back down.
Too fast, then a high speed "batted" ball will travel too fast and often fly off of a wireform or even off the ramp.
Too slow and you have an anemic game thats difficult to make the ramps, no fun at all.
If its "just right" one can make the ramps from a cradled position, even on a long game with a bit of flipper fatigue.
It takes several games to get it right.
Every game is a bit different, some faster, some slower, but you get the idea.
Air balls are a symptom of too strong of flippers.
There is a problem if balls bounce off the backboard a lot.
Today is the day!
delivered (resized).jpg
on truck (resized).jpgtouchdown (resized).jpg
Number 608 has arrived!
number 608 (resized).jpg
PERFECT No damage at all!
perfect no damage (resized).jpg
The game is just BEAUTIFUL! As expected from GCG.
It was defeinitely worth the wait.
I have to go to work, So Ill set it up tonight.
Quoted from glasairpilot:Put up a 600M score last night. Went through High Noon three times (almost twice on the first ball). 130 beer mug shots 250 bad guys, etc. Fun shooting game, but getting tired of it. Excellent game for beginning players or to make some fun bad guy shots. I am use to a deeper code like LOTR, TSPP, or even TZ. The High Noon is a little lacking IMO. Overall it is a great game - especially for newer players!
Check your settings.
If you see "easy", or extra easy, change it to medium or hard.
I chose medium.
Turn the ball save off and open the outlanes.
I left the ball save on at 4 and opened the outlanes.
Turn off all extra balls.
Report back.
Quoted from moonraker:This is what my Bart does on start up. Is this normal I’d think not. What should he do and what’s the fix thanks
[quoted image]
Are his arms loose?
I had to tighten the screws on mine 1/2 a turn before installing the topper.
I dont want it so tight it cracks the plastic, but the screws were pretty loose.
Quoted from pinballinreno:Today is the day!
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
Number 608 has arrived!
[quoted image]
PERFECT No damage at all!
[quoted image]
The game is just BEAUTIFUL! As expected from GCG.
It was defeinitely worth the wait.
I have to go to work, So Ill set it up tonight.
I took my time with the setting up.
Lifted the playfield, checked for loose wires and mechs etc., pulled out the translite tub, nothing loose!
Everything went smoothly and pretty straightforward.
Installing the mirrored backglass was ok and the existing trim fit tight and secure. No real need to get new trim.
The Original translite is OK, but the glass has lighter and brighter? colors.
This is important because when you dim down the backbox illumination, the glass looks better than the translite, its not as dim and the colors show slightly better.
Over all, the glass to me is much better.
Installing the topper was interesting.
Number one, ITS HEAVY ! ! !
One person can install it though (I did), with a stepstool.
Its a bit slippery on top, so be aware of this.
Lining up the 4 screws was ok, pushing the 3 cables through the hole, was also ok.
The wires are clearly labeled with stickers, no real need for extensive instructions.
The data cable just plugs in the socket that is plainly seen.
The Data cable fit perfectly.
The power cable fit perfectly.
The skinny 2 wire cable did indeed appear to be short!
ITS NOT TOO SHORT ! ! !, There is plenty of slack in the harness.
There is a nylon tie thats stopping the wire from pulling through the wire loom clip.
Just pull the wire pair out of the clip, and move the troublesome wire tie to the right side, you dont even have to cut it off.
Now you have plenty of wire to make the connection.
The default in the service menu (on my game) was "topper installed".
No adjustment was needed and I didnt even bother to test it as Bart moved and the town lit up on power on.
Quoted from pinballinreno:I took my time with the setting up.
Lifted the playfield, pulled out the translite "tub", checked for loose wires, loose mechs etc., found none!
Everything went smoothly and pretty straightforward.
Installing the mirrored backglass was ok and the existing trim fit tight and secure. No real need to get new trim.
The Original translite is OK, but the glass has lighter and brighter? colors.
This is important because when you dim down the backbox illumination, the glass looks better than the translite, its not as dim and the colors show slightly better.
Over all, the glass to me is much better.
Installing the topper was interesting.
Number one, ITS HEAVY ! ! !
One person can install it though (I did), with a stepstool.
Its a bit slippery on top, so be aware of this.
Lining up the 4 screws was ok, pushing the 3 cables through the hole, was also ok.
The wires are clearly labeled with stickers, no real need for extensive instructions.
The data cable just plugs in the socket that is plainly seen.
The Data cable fit perfectly.
The power cable fit perfectly.
The skinny 2 wire cable did indeed appear to be short!
ITS NOT TOO SHORT ! ! !, There is plenty of slack in the harness.
There is a nylon tie thats stopping the wire from pulling through the wire loom clip.
Just pull the wire pair out of the clip, and move the tie to the right side, you dont even have to cut it off.
Now you have plenty of wire to make the connection.
The default in the service menu (on my game) was "topper installed".
No adjustment was needed and I didnt even bother to test it as Bart moved and the town lit up on power on.
Settings:
I set the game up pretty standard, but went to medium in the menus instead of extra easy and easy.
I set the pitch initially to 6.5 with default flipper power.
Air-balls everywhere.
I increased the pitch to 7.0 and lowered the flipper power to -2.
The game played REALLY well.
During multi-ball I felt that the gameplay was a little slow, I adjusted flipper power up to -1.
On a fast rebound hit, I still get the occasional air-ball over Bart's head, but gameplay has improved.
I keep wavering between -1 and -2 on the flipper power.
Over-all the gameplay is fast and SMOOTH !
This game is AMAZING, FUN TO PLAY, and set up correctly, very challenging.
Im probably going to put in anti-glare glass as its my preference.
Adjusting the backbox illumination to -3 helps the glare a lot.
I wasnt happy with the playfield insert brightness in a casually lit room. Too bright and garish.
I adjusted the emulation to a lower flash to slow, and dimmed the brightness down a bit. Again like a couple notches to -2. Multi-ball effects were too blinding in a casually lighted environment.
My default Gun flashers were set to -3 by default, they are ok but could be dimmer.
I feel that the over-all playfield illumination is satisfactory, but could be better lit.
I will add spotlights to correct this. I dont like pinstadiums.
Quoted from gjm7777:I keep seeing people saying this game is easy and almost every time it's because all of the settings are toggled beyond easy, outlanes as closed as possible, with 5+ balls.
GCG really needs to change how these things are shipping out from factory.
Games are boxed so that at a "Show" with bright lights above, you can set it up quicky.
Then people waiting in line to play it can see some of the modes and make an assessment.
Generally, you only get to play one game and have to make a decision. You better be able to see something!
Therefore they are set at the factory SUPER easy and liberal.
The operator or home player will set the game up as they need, if they know how.
People who dont have any experience in this, are at a disadvantage!
Posting settings and expected gameplay (from experienced operators and players), here can be really helpful for a lot of people,
That said, It could be helpful if there were a complete list agreed on of settings that a new person could use as a guide.
Maybe in the FAQ?
I threw away the balls that came with my game (I never really install factory balls):
Factory balls on the right.
Regular balls that I havent even put in my polisher, on the left. You shouldnt have to polish them.
cc balls (resized).jpg
Be aware of this.
You dont need silly ninja balls or whatever...
Regular 1 1/16" polished ball bearings.
I buy them by the 100 pak, but I have a lot of games.
Expect to pay 60 cents to $1 per ball for high quality, HIGH CARBON (not chrome, not stainless etc), POLISHED balls.
DONT PAY MORE....
If you pay too much, you will feel bad about throwing them away every 350 games. Your playfield will thank you.
https://www.amazon.com/Pinball-Replacement-Steel-Balls-G100-20/dp/B07R92MQ9X/ref=asc_df_B07R92MQ9X/
50 balls for $35:
https://pgnbearings.com/products/5-1-1-16-inch-g100-precision-carbon-steel-bearing-balls-pinball-replacement?variant=44390037160249
These guys have 100 for $60:
Wash them with Naptha or lighter fluid, or brake cleaner before putting them in your game as they should come oiled to prevent rust. Waxing balls is just stupid, it wont stay on the ball...
I keep them "oily" in food saver "vacuum bagger" bags (air removed) to keep them from rusting, then clean them as I use them.
Quoted from transprtr4u:pinballinreno ... nice write up on installation and set up
Thanks! I'm here to serve...
Quoted from RTS:Try placing a long strip of electricians tape along the edge of the glass. It should tighten the fit.
Thick bamboo skewers works too while waiting for a response.
Quoted from audihere:My glass is exactly 21” wide.
Here’s a pic I just took. Disregard the wooden skewer, it’s keeping the glass from falling out of the channel. I added a red line to the pic.
If your cabinet is measuring inside to inside (not including the GIANT chamfer they added on both sides that causing a lot of this trouble) more than just under 20-9/16”, then I would think your glass would fall out too. [quoted image]
sounds like a defective lower cabinet.
My glass fits perfectly and tighter than many of my older games, game #608
CGC should just send you a lower cabinet.
Im confident you could switch the parts over.
Its not a perfect world, but thats what I would shoot for.
On the topper:
I wasnt going to post anything, but I LOVE THE TOPPER ! ! ! !
Its interactive with the game.
Players waiting for their turn are mesmerized by it, Its so much FUN!
Bart takes hits, aims a gun at you during shoot-outs,
Keels over when collected.
On top of that theres a little game too? INCREDIBLE ! I think its a must have if you can get it.
Impressive, imaginative, FUN and matches the game perfectly.
I think its well worth the money even if you get an SE+
I LOVE THIS GAME ! ! !
The team that designed it and coded the topper deserves some REAL credit.
CGC hits it out of the park with this game.
Thank you so much Sara at PPS for getting us this game!
Quoted from audihere:Or, maybe an easier test, when you begin the slide the glass into your CCr by about 1/2”, how much side to side play in the plastic channels do you have?
A - very snug
B - tight, maybe 1/8” slop
C - hanging on for dear life, 1/16”
D - Able to fall out of one side channel onto chamfered wood cabinet side panel
B maybe a hair looser.
The glass feels pretty snug with very little, if any side play.
Just about perfect IMHO.
Im confident your LOWER cabinet is out of spec, or the glass channel slot is cut wrong.
If the cabinet was too wide the lockdown bar wouldnt fit.
Quoted from Mully911:I second that... Sent many emails wanting to know if my NIB machine will be covered since I was not the original purchaser but the first to open the boxes.
...no response...Nothing... no return email... the worst!
Did you mail in the registration card?
Quoted from SimplePin:My outlane posts shipped wide open. Are others not? Are some games delivered with them closed up?
Mine are in the middle.
It seems ok there.
I lowered my playfield insert brightness to -2.
Multi-ball effects were too blinding at -1
It seems a bit better.
Quoted from gjm7777:Try turning off the LED flashers completely, and I highly recommend turning off Interactive GI in favor of doing warm/custom RGB - The game looks really nice this way , warm based on the reds in the playfield at the costs of losing illuminated bad guy targets (worth it imo)
No way man, I love the RGB, IT ROCKS !
Quoted from LTG:Page 1-44 in the manual. Go into Utilities - U.3 High Scores reset - U.6 Factory Reset.
LTG : )
Thanks!
I think I have finished the preliminary "dialing in" of my game.
7 degrees pitch.
Outlane posts in the center. I went from fully opened to removing them altogether, then back to the center position.
Gunfights, quick draws: medium
3 ball game
4 Max extra balls as set as default.
Unlimited extra balls for ball in play. If that becomes a problem, Ill change it to one.
Sometimes you need to keep up the momentun on a great game, I dont want to spoil these times.
Ball save: I went from none to 8 seconds. Pinballgoddess complained that a quick draw on the plunge can instantly drain the ball if you shot a bad guy. I dont feel that you should be penalised for winning a shootout.
Shooting bad guys is an important part of the game.
On the plunge, if you get a quick draw, the complete interaction takes 7 to 8 seconds to drain the ball on a solid hit. You should get the ball back if it drains I think. Winning a shootout and losing the ball may be a part of risk/return, but I dont think it adds fun to the game.
So, its at 8 seconds for now.
4 bart bro's to get a star
5 hits for bionic bart
Extra ball for Special, but no memory to have it continue to the next ball.
1 extra ball for getting a single replay. None after that. The game is set on free play, credits are meaningless.
All of the other default settings seem sensible.
My current goal is to have a challenging game that you can "blow up" the score on a good game.
The default of 4 extra balls seems liberal, but having the built in extra ball opportunities adds fun and a sense of accomplishment. I think the default setting seems about right.
7 maximum balls for medium skilled players in a single game seems like a good amount for a home use game and I should see some good scores.
Set up this way, game times are varying between 5 and 12 mins, with the occasional 30 min game.
Short games ALWAYS lead to another game, so I thing its set up pretty close to what I want for now.
I heard that operators shoot for 77 to 90 second average ball times, but Im thinking 2 mins for a home game.
Please comment on your settings and conclusions!
Im adjusting the audio.
I increased the subwoofer EQ balance by 2 for a little more bass presence. 3 seemed too much to me.
I think that if a music vs call outs and effects adjustment tool would be really nice in the extended code.
I ordered the speaker panel magnet from over seas, I wont probably get it until July.
However, Im not sure I want it (as popular as it is) I like the way my game matches my AFMrLE with the shadowbox look.
It will probably be for sale at a discount...
Quoted from Only_Pinball:There is an easy fix for this issue...[quoted image]
LOL !
Yes, I could just add one to my AFMr....
Quoted from nvu4prod:They compliment each other Tom, you should consider it!
Best to you and Marta!
Nick & Barbie
[quoted image]
They do look great!
Now you've got me thinking about it lol.
Quoted from audihere:My cabinet must be too wide. With those on the lockdown bar, it’s a struggle just to stretch the lockdown bar over the cabinet left/right side armor pieces.
Still no word back from CGC.
My lockdown bar sorta "snaps" on, but its not super tight, kinda firm on the sides though.
Is possible that you should pull off one siderail, move the glass channel over and be done with it.
The glass channel does NOT have to be fitted into the slot.
You can trim off the flange and set the channel in place with 6 #4 x 1/2" flat head wood screws.
You only have to move it 1/8".
No one would ever see the repair.
Quoted from audihere:That sounds like a tough trimming job to get it perfectly flush.
If I moved a channel over, I wouldn’t want it extending past the chamfer on the edge of the cabinet for cosmetic reasons. So, I wouldn’t gain much glass support, maybe 1/16 of an inch?
Its not terrible, you can sand it flush with a sanding block after trimming it with a razor cutter.
If you can get it to move 3/32" the glass would stay on.
From your pictures it looks like the glass is right on the edge of the plastic glass channel.
This is what I would do.
At least while waiting for a new lower cabinet.
Quoted from Ballderdash:Why after paying $10,000 and being given a 2 year warranty should anyone have to make a bush fix adjustment to their nib machine? CGC needs to step up, contact the owner, and fix it the right way. Cut them new glass is the easiest solution, but a wow would be a new cabinet.
This is just for the moment to get the game playing correctly.
Im confident that CGC will ultimately sort this out.
Im having a ball hang once in awhile underneath Bart, before it goes to the VUK popper.
Ball search clears it by actuating the popper plunger.
But its annoying.
I havent pulled it apart to look at it yet, but I can see the ball sitting in the lower right corner of the mech, when viewing it from above, through the opening.
It looks like its sitting against the popper cap and not going over onto it.
We played quite a few games of CCr last night.
I'm SOLD on my settings I posted above (further back in this thread), post 12357, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cactus-canyon-remake-club-new-sheriffs-in-town/page/248#post-7588600
A long game DID happen with 4 extra balls, but HIGH NOON was not achieved!
4 Bart Bros seems perfect instead of 3.
Collecting Bionic Bart with 5 hits was incredibly challenging, FUN, and achieved.
This was absolutely PERFECT ! The game was amazing!
It would be great if someone could "mirror" my settings and see what you think.
Please post any adjustments that you might think I missed and your thoughts on this.
Quoted from audihere:Over the weekend I had ball hangs in this exact spot over 10 times. Especially during multiball where it's an advantage during 2 balls to get jackpots. It looks like if the metal was bent inward a little it would help, but I don't want to bend the metal. I may 3D print something that grips onto the metal to prevent ball hangs this week. If I do, I'll post a pic. Someone must have a good design idea for this?
If I get a chance tonight, Ill look at it a try to figure out an easy solution.
My invisiglass just arrived !
So, Ill have the game apart to make adjustments etc.
I really need to wax it...but we are playing the crap out of it!
Quoted from audihere:Over the weekend I had ball hangs in this exact spot over 10 times. Especially during multiball where it's an advantage during 2 balls to get jackpots. It looks like if the metal was bent inward a little it would help, but I don't want to bend the metal. I may 3D print something that grips onto the metal to prevent ball hangs this week. If I do, I'll post a pic. Someone must have a good design idea for this?
Quoted from pinballinreno:Im having a ball hang once in awhile underneath Bart, before it goes to the VUK popper.
Ball search clears it by actuating the popper plunger.
But its annoying.
I havent pulled it apart to look at it yet, but I can see the ball sitting in the lower right corner of the mech, when viewing it from above, through the opening.
It looks like its sitting against the popper cap and not going over onto it.
LTG any quick advice before I get home to look at it?
Pinballgoddess has a FIT if the ball hang kills her momentum.
Quoted from LingBot:Have people been waxing their playfields? My impression was that the factory coating kind of precluded the need for waxing. I've just been doing basic cleaning on the playfield and ramps with novus 1 and a microfiber cloth. I'm at over 2,000 plays. I've changed the balls out a couple of times. Anything else I should be doing?
Also, to update, I got those higher tension Ghostbusters springs and while the LC drop target doesn't drop on 100% of bricks, I have noticed an improvement.
The factory coating, or clear coat, will last very many games before it needs to be buffed out.
Its not a magical material, its automotive clear coat.
This "paint" is not designed for rolling heavy steel balls over it. However it does indeed work very well.
Applying Wax over this paint (as recommended by auto manufacturers) will increase the life "dramatically" of the shine and appearance.
On a pinball machine the wax will keep black dust from grinding into the clear coat and help to keep the clear coat from getting hazy.
The "black dust" that appears, is mostly finely ground metal filings from the coil stops wearing. Its very abrasive.
Once applied the wax will trap dirt and can be removed with a light rub-down of Naptha, then re-applied.
In all cases its better to "wear out the wax" (which can be easily renewed) than wear the clear coat.
It takes quite a bit of effort to re-new the original appearance of automotive clear, using rubbing compounds and power buffers.
Quoted from undrdog:When should this be done? I've been playing mine unwaxed. (home user)
I wax every 450 games.
I strip and re-wax every 900 games.
I change the balls out every 450 games (when I wax) or sooner if they look dull, they start to look like golf balls after about 600 games. This is way too long.
Blitz 1000 grand or P21S silver can it what I use.
Applied sparingly so that the amount applied looks like fingerprints on glass, no more.
You can NOT build coats of wax, the wax has a solvent in it to remove old wax during each application.
Quoted from Only_Pinball:I do the same and have no issues. I have 15+ year old games I bought NIB and never had an issue with not waxing.
It all amounts to how many games played and how new you want the game to look.
Ive seen a lot of HUO games that were never waxed. If they were never played they look new. If they were played a lot, they have a hazy "not new" look to them. Its a pain the buff out hazy clear and often it has to be sanded to get the finish back.
To keep it looking new, I wouldnt go more than 450 plays before waxing and changing out the balls.
450 is a long time, 350 is way better.
People spend $25000 on custom paint for a car. The Car builder specifically calls for Wax to keep the finish "like new", still people balk at waxing.
Quoted from undrdog:For what it’s worth, I use Mothers pure carnauba wax on all my EMs. Figure I’ll use it on CCR, too.
Its a good wax. Its mostly solvent though.
Good wax is more expensive as it has more wax in it and less solvent and soft wax additives like beeswax.
Blitz and P21S are "hard waxes in the cans.
I like them because I can put the minimun amount on the applicator and know that its wax and not solvent.
This minimal approach leaves WAY less white dust.
Quoted from undrdog:They must have change it to easier than when mine was shipped. Mine was shipped with the outlanes all the way open. 3 balls, limited saves. I set the level bubble as suggested in the manual.
I didn't beat the game until I moved the outlanes to halfway and set it to five balls. Then I went on vacation. Now that I'm back I'll win it a few more times and go back to three balls.
IMHO Outlanes at half way are open enough that the ball drains if you aren't paying attention. If you are paying attention, you can usually nudge the ball safe. Keeps me on my toes.
Try my settings above...Very satisfying game play when you accomplish something.
I changed the single replay to fixed, at 45 million, I might go higher to say 65 million.
My settings are for novice to medium level players.
A good competition player can "blow up" this game regardless of how its set up.
Thats not me...
Quoted from undrdog:The one I use is not the cleaner wax. As to the white traces, a careful follow up with a heat gun on low melts it.
This is pretty good wax with low solvents in it:
https://mothers.com/products/california-gold-pure-brazilian-carnauba-wax-step-3-05550
Quoted from undrdog:Yup, that's it.
Since its an "old school" bar or hard wax, super thin coats are very effective on a very lightly dampened applicator.
But since its not "rock hard" like granite, it has solvents in it to make it possible to apply it without melting it in a pot and pouring it on (very old school).
Even these hard waxes remove the prior wax as you apply it, but not all of it.
This is why I strip it off with naptha to clean it up every 900 plays.
Lots of dirt appears on my naptha rag...
Quoted from daveddd14:I of course don’t have any #6 3x8 screws to install the knocker.
Is #6 1/2 too long?
If not to the store I go!
Way too long, use gold 3/8" screws in the backbox.
Use longer ones with 2 washers if thats all you got.
Quoted from moonraker:Barts left arm seems to have a mind if it’s own and is pointing straight up in the air on start up or half way when other arm looms correct pointing at me. Should I loosen arm screw and adjust? I already tried pushing arm down to correct position. Thanks
Is it having a hard time finding its home position?
How does it work in test?
Could be a loose wire on the sensor.
I installed anti-glare glass on my game last night. There are many vendors of it now, and all of them have their own slight tint, blue, purple, pink etc. Each has their own place depending on the colors on the playfield, purple tint is pretty good over all if you cant choose.
I chose invisiglass for this game. The green? tint to it is just perfect, it makes the colors POP !
https://www.pinballlife.com/invisiglass-non-glare-playfield-glass-standard.html
If you were on the fence about it, DO IT ! ! ! !
This glass solved ALL of my lighting complaints.
The VERY slight filtering takes all of the annoying harshness off the LED's.
One of my problems was reflection.
Not just backbox reflection, but reflection between the inside and outside surfaces of the glass causing a slightly skewed viewpoint.
Or maybe an underwater type of look due to the super bright LEDS?
The text on the inserts was unreadable and had a slight blur.
ALL OF THIS IS GONE ! ! ! !
Its like playing with the glass off and wearing VERY slightly filtered glasses tuned to the harshness of LEDs. All of the lighting is slightly softened? the most noticeable times are during the muti-ball displays. What was a seizure inducing mode is now enjoyable and exciting.
Invisiglass should have been an option when buying the game as it adds so much to it.
I have anti-glare glass on all of my games, but this installation seems to have the most noteworthy effect.
After playing CCr for a few days with the factory glass (which is very good quality), we are seeing a HUGE improvement and our scores have dramatically improved. It's so much easier to keep track of the ball.
Just BUY IT ! ! !!
Quoted from moonraker:Yes it’s either straight up in the air or to foward or back. I’ve tried to manually push in line with right arm and still winds up being to far back foward or up in the air. I haven’t done test in menu but I’ll try but not sure that’s going to correct it just tell me something. Where is the sensor and how do you fix
Is the arm loose?
Does it always do the same thing and always return to the same position?
Test mode could help, but it blows fuses on some games if done a lot.
Quoted from atrainn:Well I unexpectedly joined the club today! Hopefully I'll get it set up a bit later tonight.
[quoted image]
Try my settings (if you want) that I posted, let me know what you think!
Quoted from fossmin:So when did CGC start added the mine cart to the tracks? I bought a mod because I thought it didn't come with one, but mine came with one out of the box that I just opened. It is number 318.
My LE came with the mine cart and tracks.
I think the regular versions have no tracks or mine cart.
Quoted from fossmin:The electric cord plate cover came with no screws. Anyone know a size and length? Also, I can't hook up my topper, because there is no backbox key on either hook on the coin door. Can't believe I have to drill out a brand new lock
[quoted image]
Are the keys deep inside the game, under the cable hoses or in the deepest back wall corner?
Stuck under the speaker magnet?
I cant believe they fell of the hook...
It took me a monent to find mine as there were 2 hooks on the coin mechs.
Im easily fooled.
WTF, NO KEYS !?!?!?!?!?!
The screws look like 8-32 x 1.5 or 2"
Quoted from fossmin:Thank you Sir!!! That is exactly where they were in the back of the game under the wiring harness. Unbelievable! I can't see them coming off the hook. Seems highly unlikely. They must have just tossed them in the cabinet???
Youre welcome!
The key hooks are sitting sideways when the game is on its end.
If the hooks are not tightly closed the keys can easily slide off.
I have found them in the cabinet before from old worn out bent hooks.
Its amazing what you can find in a game. Especially if it hasnt been vacuumed out for 30 years.
Lots of little places for stuff to hide out.
Quoted from TonyP66:all this talk about Barts arms on the topper has me wondering what is the correct position or action. I say this because on my unit his arms are pointed all over the place. Not that I really mind to be honest but on my topper it looks to be kinda random.
On my game the arms/guns are pointed straight down when I start a game.
Its important that they are correct as he points the gun at you during shoot out modes.
He even moves slightly when getting to draw. Its impressive when it works right.
How do they work in test? There IS a home position, they are not random.
Are they loose?
Mine were slightly loose when I set up my game. I tightened the arm screws 1/2 a turn each to firm them up.
Quoted from TonyP66:definitely crazy arms, this is what they are at the start of a game
[quoted image]
Send in a ticket or call them, that's not right.
Im building a physical knocker tomorrow out of used parts.
Does the knocker fire during shootouts?
GOD I LOVE THIS GAME ! ! ! ! ! !
Pinballgoddess made me change my settings back to 3 Bart bro's from my setting of 4 for getting the extrs ball and setting up Bionic Bart.
Her logic was that there are only 3 on the backglass and the game should match it.
So, Im back to 3. ( Oh, and for the female pinsiders: "boys are stupid")... 
Quoted from Ballderdash:Oktoberfest uses its knocker for effect during the target shooting and duck hunt modes. Definitely adds to the immersion.
Same with Houdini.
After getting a few ball hangs under the Bart mech I made an adjustment.
The lower metal wall of the Bart mech, that leads to the popper subway, interferes with the lower wall of the popper subway. The ball has to bounce over this mis-alignment.
This causes an errant bounce that causes the ball to "hang" in the upper right corner of the mech, or just stay there (in the lower right corner) on my game.
Using needle nose pliers I slightly bent the popper wall/tab corner "UP" enough (1/16" or a little more) so that the ball no longer bounces off of it.
So far in the last 20 games, the ball hasn't hung under the Bart mech.
My playfield pitch is 7 degrees and perfectly level horizontally.
ball hang adjustment (resized).jpg
Ill post more fixes if this isnt enough of an adjustment.
But, so far, so good.
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:I know these are covered in the FAQs, I'm just posting here for transparency on common issues users are seeing regularly. My HUO game is under 150 total plays. I'm currently dealing with some pretty bad flipper hop (this makes the game way less fun to play as you can't aim a shot without cradling first). I'm also having the missing nut issue on the beer mug, causing it to hit really hard on the glass. If you're getting a new one delivered, I would be prepared to deal with both issues right away.
These are minor problems overall and easily fixable with a little work. The game itself is amazing and the build quality is really good despite a few common issues most new owners are having. I'm having a blast playing (except for the whole ball hop issue right now) and really looking forward to the new code whenever it is finally available. Happy to wait another year or two on that and just keep enjoying the game as-is until then.
The earlier post on raising the ball guide sems to work 100% for the ball hop. Raise it so that the center of the ball rides the guide, then it will miss the end wire that causes the hop.
The earlier post of getting a 2-56 nylock nut, plus adding a jam nut with red locktite, from the hardware store seems to work well for the beer mug. Lloyd suggested getting a brass nut and soldering it onto the wire,. I like this solution the best.
Reading some of the earlier posts can yield some great results.
Quoted from alveolus:I have to disagree with this.
The ball hop is not caused by the ball hitting the end of the wire form. It is caused by the ball falling into the butt of the flipper rubber as it exits the ball guide. If the ball guide in your case is riding below the center of the ball then by all means raise it to the center of the ball and see if that is sufficient. Depending on the relationship between the ball guide and the Flipper that may not be enough.
In my case, I needed to raise the ball guide 3mm above the center of the ball to eliminate the ball hop. Because of the way the ball guide curves at the end, this alignment causes the ball to move away from the flipper as it exits the ball guide, thus the ball clears the butt of the flipper and viola! No flipper hop.
Here is the documentation: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cactus-canyon-remake-club-new-sheriffs-in-town/page/238#post-7548459
You did a great job documenting this problem!
So, it appears that raising the ball guide is a simple solution for this annoyng problem. Whether its to be raised to the center of the ball (which should be the factory height) or 3 mm higher, is conditional.
However, I think in most cases raising it above the centerline of the ball untill the ball tracks properly, will give the best results.
Being able to adjust the trajectory line of the ball is a powerful tool.
It was fascinating to watch the video!
I love simple solutions
Quoted from Golgotha:** Memorial Day SALE! **
Use Coupon Code "Memorialday10" For 10% off! Limited time, Order now
My two Cactus Canyon Mods are on sale.
River Rescue Polly, which can be found here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1510-creekside-hideaway-llc/08528-river-rescue-polly
~and~
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1510-creekside-hideaway-llc/08559-shooter-guide-label
Enjoy the weekend!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I think the shooter gauge decal would look better if it matched the wood grain of the wooden apron and had wood burning "look" engraving.
Quoted from audihere:I raised my inlane wire forms up today. Did the obligatory slo mo videos. Much better, less ball hop on flipper rubbers now. But I noticed those wire forms, especially the left one at the left flipper are pretty loose going into the playfield. I can move that one side to side and up and down by hand. Not sure if my changes to its position will hold?
Pull it out an put Titebond III wood glue on the wire ends, and a little bit in the holes.
It will expand the wood and firm up the wires.
It will hold really good.
Quoted from audihere:Trying to identify the spot where you bent the metal. Is mine the same?[quoted image]
I bent the upper corner tab "UP" a bit, highlighted in the center circle, however mine was a bit closer than yours.
I also bent the lower corner down/outwards? slightly but it probably didnt do anything.
It wont hurt it to bend the upper corner a little and see if it solves your problem.
this area (resized).jpg
We played another 20 games last night and still no subway hang.
So, I guess it worked.
The only other hang we are having is if a ball VERY gently rests on the sling under the pops, it will stay there.
Its a PITA the reach the leaf switches for adjustment, but they could be a bit more sensitive, same with the pops.
However, with a shaker motor, one can only go so far as everything will fire when the shaker goes off, if its set too close.
Im leaving those adjustments alone for now.
Quoted from audihere:Got it! How about a fix for when the ball pops out of Bart and gets hung up to the right of his head on the sheet metal? Several photos of this have been posted here. It’s been happening to me A LOT lately.
See if you can set the ball there by hand.
You might have to bend/tweak the metal edge a little so the ball stops hanging there.
Keep fiddling with it until you cant get the ball to rest there.
I use a 4" crescent wrench to gently move flat-rail and mech tabs, as it wont scratch them up.
Duckbill pliers are also good.
LTG had a couple solutions in this thread
Quoted from Kawydud:Last one for the current run, would have to wait awhile if I didn't grab this one. At least that is what I was told, who knows
giphy.gifQuoted from VolunteerPin:Just setting up my LE. Excited to play my first game and the left flipper button gets stuck in or is very slow to pop back out. I believe this is my first game with this flipper button assembly. Thoughts on how to loosen it up?
Thanks!
See how the button stays “in” in the photos?[quoted image][quoted image]
Use needle nose pliers to remove/loosen the "tin" pal-nut that holds the button in.
Remove the button and see if its "sticky" out of the game.
Sometimes they are just poorly molded and need to be freed up, or replaced. Sometimes there is something sticky on them and can be washed with hot soapy water.
You can add silicone oil the the button shaft to help it, but often it needs to be ripped apart, sanded a bit then trim off any bits of plastic left over from molding it.
They can be tough to rip apart. I hammer them thru a hole on a piece of wood, sometimes this works without destroying them.
But mostly, I just replace them with ones that are NOT sticky, they used to be 50 cents, I have a bag of them.
Sometimes its the opto interrupter thats binding on the optos.
You can easily remove the board and assembly to see whats binding and free it up, or just assemble it better.
Sometimes the plastic interrupter binds on the metal spring steel.
I just pull it apart and dremel out a little of the steel to free it up.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:Also, what is this part? Was sitting behind the buildings on the topper. I don’t see anything that looks missing
[quoted image]
Save it in the coin box. It might just be left over from assembly.
If you figure it out later, you will have it.
Quoted from dawasa:Flippers and sound die during game play. Very 1st game. Worked fine for 15 seconds then flippers lost power and sound cut out for about 5 seconds. 2nd ball flippers and sound came back, then after a few shots, out again then back on. Played a 2nd game, same thing on every ball. I will check power interlock switch and driver board. Thanks for suggestions!
You can pull out on the interlock switch white peg/post to engage the power with the door open.
It has a dent in it to make it easier to pull on. Its inside the door to the lower left on a bracket screwed onto the cabinet
You might also be able to start a game this way.
Its possible that the switch is bad but that is very rare. More likely is that the bracket that holds the switch needs to be repositioned towards the door to get better contact. Its kinda stiff to bend it.
Its much easier to just bend the silver plate that presses the interlock switch away from the door to get a more firm contact to the switch. It wont hurt it, bend it back like 1/8"
All of this of course if the power cord isnt bad or loose. You can open/bend apart the prongs a little in the power socket to get a tighter fit on the power cord. It should be snug.
Quoted from dawasa:CR 10 lights Red on board (backbox left top) when flippers and sound go out. Cord is tight. Coin door plugs seem fine and engaged. I can start games, it just cuts out sound and flippers randomly, even when ball sits in shooter lane.
Does it do this with the interlock white peg pulled out?
Quoted from badfish981:I don’t know about you, but I’d not be happy with that.
I have a couple speckles in mine and I think it looks like wormwood.
Im happy with it.
Quoted from Golgotha:I received a message to check lower jet switch 55. I went into test mode and was looking around. I went to solenoid test mode and set repeat mode to on. I can scroll thru the list but not a single solenoid fires, which seems weird. Is that normal? Not much of a test in my opinion. Going into autoburn and letting it cycle twice seemed to clear it.
Another question is about the sdcard It looked like there is a port on the daughter board in the head. There is no specification for the type of SD card it requires. It also doesn't say anything about how to save the current Chicago Gaming logo. Anyone have a clue? I have a custom .Bmp file I made. I put it on a USB stick and then realized it uses SD cards.
Did you pull out the interlock switch peg to enable the high power for the solenoids?
Quoted from EDUB919:Anyone else have any issues with the leg bolts being too small on their LE? 2/4 bolt heads seemed slightly smaller than 5/8”, causing them to round off in the same socket I’ve used for every other leg bolt for years.
Mine were fine.
I used a plastic lined 5/8" socket for finshed bolts and they fit snug.
Quoted from EDUB919:Wish I would have had one of those plastic lined sockets. Removed/installed many leg bolts but never had an issue performing such a simple task before. Thankfully I won’t be needing to remove the legs again for a very long time. Based on my wife’s enjoyment of its gameplay, not going anywhere.
Pinballl life sells them, get 2 as they can strip out:
https://www.pinballlife.com/soft-socket-58-no-scratch-socket.html
162 games played:
No real dimples on the playfield, but I addressed air balls thru flipper adjustments.
Some VERY light scuffing to the clear coat in the sheriff and just below the high noon insert.
This is to be expected. I waxed the playfield "just now", paying attention to the area, buffed it a bit by hand and the scuffing is EASILY covered by wax at this point.
Some ball tracking on the lower part of the river ramp as well as the shooter lane ramp.
No noticeable wear to the "spin-out" area.
Some residual "white" dust from the game being brand new (mostly wood dust from the factory). Easily blown off with the electro-duster:
https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Powerful-Electronic-Environmentally-Friendly/dp/B01FWSYOME/ref=sr_1_6
or
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Inflating-Detailing-Performance-Eco-Friendly/dp/B00SI67YRU/ref=sr_1_8
The cabinet is super clean but I vacuumed it out any way. Nothing was found in the shop-vac.
No wear to the ramp flaps.
The ball tracks on the plastic ramps were EASILY covered with a coat of wax and are hardly notieable.
The balls still look new, but we will see how they look at 350 plays.
My audits:
average ball time = 78 seconds
average game time = 4 min 11 seconds.
Left and right outlane drains were within 6 of each other. A VERY well balanced playfield. No need for horizontal adjustment.
The game is challenging, FUN and rewarding!
It plays PERFECTLY other than maybe a ball hang on the upper sling once in awhile. Im hoping it will break in, otherwise Ill replace the black rubber with a white one (should have been white from the factory like on WOZ).
WAX YOUR GAMES PEOPLE.... It will really matter down the road.
After waxing the game played FASTER than new, but tamed down after 10 games.
Quoted from audihere:What a coincidence. Before I read you post today, I did almost the same exact thing. Hopefully it'll stay working.
There does seem to be a large nub on the left side of Bart. That same one on the right would probably have been a good idea.[quoted image]
Your right side metal on Bart looks bent down.
Mine is perfectly flat.
I tried 30 times to get a ball to hang there. It just wont do it.
My playfield pitch is 7 degrees and the game plays really well there.
Quoted from binary01:There are times when Bart would be slightly to the right, just enough to trap the ball between it and the vertical edge of the ball guide. My game is level with a 6.5 degree pitch.
Maybe adjust to 7 degrees.
The game didnt play right at 6.5 degrees, the ball would lose momentum and I had a difficult time adjusting the flipper power.
Moving the pitch to 7 degrees solved very many play related problems and air-balls.
Quoted from audihere:I think it’s flat. Maybe an optical illusion.
Its possible.
Is your game set to 7 degrees pitch?
Quoted from jackd104:You missed about 200 LEs made and someone asking if the Lyman code update is ready every 3 days and complaints about the wait and GCG poor customer service and the occasional report of ok customer service. The end.
Oh, plus its an AMAZING game and well worth the wait.
Quoted from sandersj:Hi all, I'm getting what might be described as some ghost switch hits on startup that does not allow any type of skill shot for selecting the initial "bonus". I hit start, it kicks a ball into the shooter lane, then before I can shoot it completes the skill shot so I get what I get.
I've checked the switch matrix, manually tested every switch I can reach, and gone underneath and re-seated a bunch of connectors and I can't figure out where this switch hit is coming from. Anyone else have his issue?
Put a ball in the shooter lane during test and see if another switch activates.
Might be a bad diode on a switch.
Newer flipper buttons dont use an e-clip.
They are pressed together, however you can push them apart a couple times until they get too loose.
Smacking then apart over a block of wood with a big hole in it, or over a deep socket works pretty good.
The same idea for fixing them though, once you get them apart.
Quoted from MachineGunGuy:It looked ok, but its not the same as a translite were the graphics are on the glass.
A translite is a piece if heavy vinyl or clear flexible material that is printed on a printer, with white paint applied to the back. Much like a sign or poster.
The original CC as well as ALL the CCr games come with a translite, A "mirrored backglass" is a really nice upgrade.
A backglass is actual tempered glass with an image silk screened onto it. Pinball machines have had "ink screened", "mirrored" backglasses for decades, it looks really good.
Glass has the ability to allow a mirror treatment to be "heat or chemically" fixed to it, translites being plastic do not. There are NO mirrored translites. However in this modern world there is a mirrored paint that "can" be applied to plastic surfaces.
The term, "mirrored backglass" means an image "ink silk screened" onto glass along with mirror treatment. Although glass can be printed on these days eliminating the screen printing process. Printing is more accurate, but doesnt have the visual depth that silk screening has had in the past. However "Giclee" processes are really close to screened processes.
I REALLY like my mirrored backglass. The colors are corrected to be just EXACTLY right in the LED environment.
IMHO, its just the perfect addition to the LE versions.
knocker plate (resized).jpg
knocker installed (resized).jpg
knocker plugged in (resized).jpg
Knocker installed!
It took all of 5 mins to install.
Use 3/8" gold screws.
The holes are already there!
There is NO software to enable (though it says its diabled), IT JUST WORKS!
Turn off the FAKE knocker sound in the menus...
Does it sound WAY better, YES!
Is it worth it? YES!
Quoted from ASAC_Schrader:Where did you get the kit?
I built mine out of spare parts, but needed a shiney new knocker plate.
I bought the cable here on pinside as I was too lazy to make one.
PPS has all the parts at a good price:
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-B-10686-1
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-CBL-KNOCKER
https://www.planetarypinball.com/pinball-01-7525
The knocker cable is also sold here in this thread by pinsider mycarlooksfast
If you dont have them, you need at least 5 of these:
https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
The screws go in easily, you dont even need a screw gun. Just a 1/4" nut driver will do it.
Quoted from Ballderdash:That’s a clean install!
Its suoer easy to install the kit.
Quoted from Ballderdash:Fwd them a copy of your medical bill and ask for reimbursement.
To the prior owner perhaps?
Quoted from chillme:Why? It's not a warranty claim, they made a product that caused physical harm, CGC now has a liability issue. If they don't want to respond it something you could take to small claims court. You would think they would be falling all over themselves to make this right.
Maybe, but its the second owner.
All of you pinside attorneys would have to check on the liability of used goods.
I wouldnt have a clue.
But its America! Sadly, I can sue my neighbor for having a haircut I dont like....
Quoted from Ballderdash:Was it modified in any way? Is a defect in an automobile exempt from manufacturer liability once the vehicle is sold to the next owner?
These are insipid questions for the judges and juries here on pinside just to inflame the public I think.
But please carry on...
Or maybe run a little Emory cloth across the sharp edge and solve the problem as noted in this and other threads from other games...
Im just not "buying in" to the "Land of litigation" America has become.
Quoted from jesperpark:I was looking at the reviews for cactus canyon remake and was wondering why LEs don't have thier own ratings? All the other remakes are separated
Rate it!
Its needs more ratings to make it a category.
Quoted from Beau2105:Has anyone had an issue with the train not going down the tracks in the Save Polly mode? When the mode starts it moves a quarter inch then stops and doesn’t move again. When I go into the test menu the train seems to work as normal.
Maybe the train ramp switch needs adjustment.
It pauses the train.
Quoted from Pomz:I turned it to its lowest and lowered the lights but it’s still too much they should just do a solid color or light blinking.
Set the lamps to incandescent mode and turn off the RGB lighting effects.
Make the game have a "classic" look!
You can even turn off the color display and use the original looking screen.
Its a setting in the menus.
Playing with the settings is tons of FUN!
Quoted from Pomz:Hey LTG,
Do you ever go to SS Billiards? Also do you know when Lyman’s code is coming out? JK but seriously they need to turn off the strobe like light in gun fight and make High Noon way harder and not as many points! Would you send that to the higher ups? Thanks Bionic Bart is my favorite Mode. Lol
In the menus change the default from easy to hard.
Turn off all extra balls.
Remove the outlane posts.
Get back to us with the result.
Quoted from underlord:According to JJP settings are a feature! Glad you’re enjoying them!
Lol, yep.
Getting a NIB game is a blast in itself.
Part of the fun for me is to spend a couple hours going thru the menus and fooling around with them to see what they do.
After all of that, I set the game up to what "I" would would think is fun and challenging.
Factory reset is awsome to be able to do whatever I want at the time and just start again.
Quoted from Pomz:I get this but what does that have to do with making high noon better? Does anyone really think the way high noon plays is good? Does anyone really like the strobe like blinking lights? Yeah I have adjusted it but it’s just silly things. Those shouldn’t be in the game but I like to play the game as it comes and compare to other machines and peoples high scores. I’m not a great player but probably down the road I will adjust those things but why should anyone have too?
Sadly, games are not delivered to people or operators pre-set to each and every individual taste.
But the menu settings give you a huge amount of flexibility based on how you want it to play.
My game came with all the settings on extra easy out of the box. This is done so that at trade shows, its an easy setup and it can be set up rapidly so that prospective buyers can see more of the game to make an assessment. Typically at a trade show you only get one play of a game to make a decision due to long lines.
Some have commented that the initial settings are way to easy (as they should be to show off the game at a show). They are easy to change though.
I can hardly imagine that a game could be set up specifically for an individual at the factory not knowing who is going to buy it.
Go thru the settings and adjust it however you want.
Maybe start at medium difficulty and change the max extra balls to 4 for a game and not have them carry over.
Its VERY easy to make CCr an extremely brutal game.
Lastly, if a game is not for you personally and you dont like it, sell it and move on.
There is a high demand for this game and there are many more offerings to choose from.
Quoted from RTS:That's kinda his point.
Set original settings more difficult on the line so its at a more challenging level for everyone who buys it.
Every game should be the same, but not at such an easy level making individual adjustments less necessary except for those who need it to be easier.
It's better when comparing scores if the games have the same original settings.
I tend to agree.
Just set everything to factory settings on the line and call it good.
Quoted from Redliner911:I'm looking to add a playfield spotlight or two. Has anyone else done this? Looking for suggestions on mounting spots and also where would be a good source for wiring power?
Comet has some great adapters and wiring solutions.
Quoted from audihere:Here’s what my glass looks like when it falls off one side. It’s sitting outside of the plastic channel on top of the wooden bevel.
[quoted image]
Im thinking about your cabinet problems while laying out a new cabinet.
I can offer measurements that are correct.
Inside measurement from glass channel (inside edge) to glass channel inside edge, 21-1/8"
The glass should be very close to 21" wide. The glass that I buy is usually just a hair wider, like 21-1/64" or dead on.
inside dimension (resized).jpg
measurement (resized).jpg
The outer edge of the glass channel should be even with, or just slightly inside the edge of the siderail:
edge comparison (resized).jpg
Your glass channels are WAY inside the edge of the siderail.
Your lower cabinet is out of spec and defective.
I hope this proof helps.
Quoted from audihere:Thanks for that info. I had posted this pic which was same measurement on right side of 0.360"
What do you get for that measurement?
I want to say huge thanks to Jim Thornton and also to Lloyd for helping me out on this. It is a lot of work, but they sent new cab and should have swap out finished in a day or two.
[quoted image]
inner width:
left side:
inner width (resized).jpg
right side:
other side (resized).jpg
Quoted from undrdog:Just beat the game on ball one.
Outlines are set halfway. Slope is set per the manual.
Guess I can set it back to 3 balls now.
[quoted image]
Personally, I would reset that score and tighten up the settings a bit. Mine came set to extra easy, thats just silly, the game would never end lol.
I saw that one could set the game to 10 balls with unlimited extra balls and extra easy settings.
Fun times!
I set my game to 3 ball, medium difficulty and 4 extra balls max.
The game seems to play as it should, challenging but doable. Outlane posts in the middle.
Average ball time 77 seconds, average game time 4 mins 12 seconds.
This works VERY well for our 4 player games.
And...everyone here LOVES the physical knocker! I think it adds a LOT to the experience.
Quoted from ifpapinball:Franks and Beans is on the list
Cowboys vs Aliens should be. Its recognizable and extremely popular.
Quoted from pghpinfan:I am getting an annoying rattle between the glass and the side rails. Whats the best way to solve this?
Push a 2 or 3" piece of nylon tie (with the head cut off) between the glass channel and the cabinet wood, in a couple places on both sides.
Often just one piece will do the trick.
Basically it makes a slight "bump" in the channel that firms up the glass if you put it in the center.
Use a thin putty knife or plastic razor blade to shove them in.
You wont see them, but if you are worried use black ties.
The glass channel is stapled on, its easy to raise it up a bit.
This will firm up the glass without using tape.
Quoted from fixintoplay:Not to nit pick, but #2-56 x 1/2" - UNC (coarse thread) or UNF (fine thread)? They're available in both, but one won't fit.
Dont be silly.
wire size #2, 56 threads to the inch, no more, no less. 56 threads exactly.
There is no course or fine thread, it's 2-56 exactly.
Quoted from zpinman370:I went to the local fastener place and the guy gave me 10 pcs 2-56 x 3/4" SS @ N/C so kind of liked that deal (just need to snip them off once installed) and now I have spares just in case....lol
Put a nut on it before you snip it off.
Removing the nut afterword's will "chase" the threads.
If you dont have a nut, a switch "nut plate" will work, its also 2-56.
1/2" x 2-56 are used on the micro switches. Its a pinball standard part.
Quoted from zpinman370:it screws straight thru the nut plate so my plan was to thread it in with some loctite the snip the excess off sticking thru. If it burrs up the end less of a chance of it coming back out so should be good.
Still never found the other screw but it will likely drop thru to the bottom of the cabinet eventually.....
When I pulled out my TAF harnesses, 6 screws shook out.
I will be found some day...
Quoted from Mully911:Hey are there protectors available for the plastic forms the ball travels in back to the in lanes? I see a line forming down the middle of the plastic form where the ball rolls down it.
Clean it and wax it with Blitz 1000 pure carnauba wax.
Re-wax every 300 games or so.
Wear the wax off instead of the plastic as you play the game.
Same for the playfield. Wax it often to keep it new.
Ball tracks on the playfield can be lightly rubbed off with Novus 2.
Wax the game and replace the balls every 350 games to keep it looking new.
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