Joined the topper club. There were pre drilled holes in the top of the head I used, but had to make small holes in the new topper to get it to fit.

Love it!

20211005_194558 (resized).jpg

Wow, I guess I started a Cheesy trend!

Glad to see everyone grab those toppers!

I've installed RadCals, which require removal of the bolts from the head and cabinet to apply. They look beautiful, and I'm very happy with the result, but it's a much more involved process to do it right than some suggest. I have spare decals for a couple pins also, and they do not have pre-cut holes for the bolts, so I believe you must remove the bolts to install decals also, and it's a good idea to sand and paint the cabinet before applying new decals or RadCals. There are several videos demonstrating both methods.

Loving the game, a couple of quick questions on the rules.

1. So you collect all 9 rings of men to light and play Gollum multiball. What are the rules of this mode?
2. What do the 7 dwarf rings do when collected?

#1 - There are no rules to complete. It's a 2 ball multiball which alternates between half points and double points.
#2 - Lights Mystery which you can collect with the Sam shot.

Is there a way to switch between 1/2 points and double points?

No. It changes back and forth automatically based on time.

I also forgot to add - you can also use the Gollum multiball to restart another 3 ball multiball (if you do it fast enough) or to add a fourth ball to one.

as above if you listen carefully the voice changes and the dmd image iirc between gollum and smeagol

--------------------
Gollum Multiball
--------------------

Gollum Multiball is qualified by collecting nine Rings of Man (see Rings).
Shoot Gollum's Cave when it is lit to begin Gollum MB. Gollum cannot be
started during any Movie Multiball, nor can it be during special modes
such as Ring Multiball or Destroy the Ring. It CAN be started during any
regular mode. Gollum is a NON-exclusive multiball - anything that was running
before you started it will continue to run, modes and movie multiballs can be
started, souls collected, etc. Gollum Multiball simply does two things:

1. Adds a ball into play. During regular play, you now have two balls with
which you can score things. Very handy for clearing some modes. If a
movie multiball is started, you get four balls instead of three - also very
handy!

2. Alters ALL scoring based on the following pattern: Every seven seconds,
Gollum changes to Smeagol, and vice versa. If Gollum is up, all scores are
HALVED(!). If Smeagol is up, all scores are DOUBLED. This is on top of
any other multiplier or modifier that could be applied to the scoring in
question, and affects ALL scoring, regardless of source (except Bonus, of
course).

Mathematically, Gollum MB is good overall, as the player will get scores
of 1.25x normal on average. Skillful play (timing things so big scores are
achieved during Smeagol phases) can significantly increase scoring.

Note that on current software (5.01), Gollum MB cannot be achieved if RotK
MB is qualified, as Gollum's Cave starts RotK instead of Gollum MB. If you
want to stack these, start Gollum BEFORE qualifying RotK.

Note that this condition is fixed in version 8.0 - Gollum's VUK starts
Gollum instead of TTT multiball.

Resurrecting movie multiballs: If you just drained back to one ball after
a movie multiball, and Gollum MB is lit, you can "resurrect" that movie
multiball by starting Gollum MB *before* the final musical fanfare signifying
the end of the movie MB is played (this fanfare is accompanied by a screen
showing your total points for the multiball). There is about a 5 second
grace period between the end of the multiball music and displays, and the
actual "end" of the multiball, during which Gollum will "resurrect" the movie
MB with two ball play.

You can also delay “destroy the ring” by starting Gollum mb. Once in Gollum mb you can start a mode if you have 3 elf rings, after you drain a ball “destroy the ring” will re-light.

Best thing to look for in Gollum is the green insert in front of the Gollum scoop. It will alternate between strobing and lit solid. I tend to get it mixed up, but I believe solid is when scores are doubled.

Changing it up a little…

000C68A9-7704-4EFE-8273-01A34F5CB871 (resized).jpeg

F4C08CF2-581F-43C1-B387-7E383384AE2B (resized).jpeg

Is it just me, or does the layout of LOTR seem all too "FAN LIKE"? I mean, the six shots to play the game are in the upper part of the PF, and are easily made. It seems like its just practice repetitions sometimes when I play it. I suppose that's why there are very long ball times on this game; it is a novice player's dream layout, kinda like Monster bash. I'm curious to hear Owners' opinions and comments as related to the layout being quite easy/simple, and more geared toward novice players, as opposed to more moderately and advanced level players.

This game is still great; dont get me wrong. Its tons of theme integration, and fun as hell. I just think it would be hard to have in a lineup without much more difficult/challenging games with more demanding layouts and punishing missed shot drain potential.

If it weren't so expensive, I'd probably own one of these. I really like Gomez layout designs (owned a JM, and currently own a Corvette, his first ever game as credited lead designer). I think Gomez does very well at creating smooth shots which feel kinetically satisfying; kind of like Keith Elwin does on his games. I hope Stern has a release in mind with Gomez as primary lead designer.

Best wishes and have a great week everyone!

Hog

The layout may be simple but actually beating the game (getting to Valinor) is fairly difficult. It's easy to start modes. Not so easy to complete some of them. Same applies to the 3 main multiballs. You have to successfully complete them in order to get to Valinor. That's the draw of this game. I agree long ball times can be a drag sometimes. Beating the game often involves a game that lasts over 60 minutes unless you are a world class player that can beat the multiballs and modes on the first attempt.. I had a 1h30 long game a few weeks ago.

If I want short games I go on MMr or SW.

I own a good amount of machines and if my wife didn't have a vote this would probably be the one I would keep if I could have only one. For me the shots remain really satisfying, each game is different and there are high level goals that keep you coming back. Honestly the biggest thing for me was getting a Pinsound system so I could change up the callouts because they can get old (particularly the path of the dead). I also love my Deadpool so I think Gomez is a good designer for me. I would say that this machine shines in a home environment. It is also popular with people who come over so it really checks all the boxes. The art is meh but it is not a big deal to me. I don't mind the long ball times but it is not a great game when you only have a few minutes to play.

The shots might not be very difficult, but the code is good, and the game is difficult to beat because of that. There are some tougher shots on T3, but I can beat that game twice in one play, and I haven't sniffed Valinor.

"Fairly difficult?" I think that may be a gross understatement

The palantir shot is a drain monster. Not that you should be aiming for it unless to add a ball in MB. The right ramp can be tough at times and the Gimli or Gollum shot can be missed for a cheap drain. You can also set the out lanes tougher. The multiballs are very difficult to complete.

Well I didn't want to sound insulting to someone who may be real good lol. I owned it before and never got close to Valinor.

A month ago I would have said near impossible. Then I got to it 2 consecutive games in 2 days with the second one lasting over 90 mins. That's after owning the game for about 5-6 weeks. I didn't touch it for 2 weeks after that. Now I struggle to even get to 50Mil. Ugggh.

However I am getting better at successfully completing at least 1 MB in the first round. I was pretty happy when I finished fellowship on the first try over the weekend

I will say this: My outlanes are at the easiest setting. It's how I got the game and haven't changed them. My GF really enjoys it the way it is. It just means it's set up a bit too easy for my taste.

On my LOTR the inlane posts have rubber removed and the outlane posts are removed. It's the only way to fly!

You can also add bouncy flipper rubbers, low flipper angle, tight tilt, turn off EBs, or just go to the installs menu and chose "Extra Hard" which makes everything harder to start, etc.

For me, no extra balls is The Way!

Just installed these medium strength coils from Andrew at APB and I must say...VERY VERY NICE!

I was using the higher strength coils that are advertised on the available pin site stores that we typically frequent, and that was really all I knew in terms of flipper strength ( I had received my game with these higher strength coils installed and I never had the original coils, nor had I ever experienced personally the medium strength coils).

I must say, this medium strength flipper coil feels SO much nicer. The shots seem much more smooth. I was very curious as to the strength to make certain shots, but I noticed that without any issue whatsoever I was still able to make all shots, left orbit to the right corner tower, Legolas and center ramps, etc....no problem. Definitely less force compared to the higher strength coils, as expected, but more than enough power.

Now that I have experienced both the high power coil and now this new medium power coil, I would agree, those higher coils really are a bit too strong.

All in all, I am very happy with these new medium strength coils from APB... I'm a believer! ...and thank you Andrew!!

Psh, I took the left flipper off and put a donut hole in the ring - at least make it challenging

I went and looked at one yesterday. Dude knew nothing about it, his parents gave it to him and they'd had it since new. He wanted 8k and I think I'm the first person to ever remove the glass SO much coil powder. Playfield wasn't worn through anywhere but I'm a novice and not sure it could ever shine again. Might go back with novus 2 and see and make a lower offer. Always wanted this game!

Believe it or not this is a really fun way to play:

D56D277E-CA18-4832-A52C-413B31295E65 (resized).jpeg

I ordered some as well. Was it difficult to install them? Never changed a coil

Not difficult but perhaps a little scary the first time. I am not the best at soldering but you will get the hang of it. There are some great videos out there.

Quite easy and not a problem. Got to cut your teeth on some game, looks like yours is going to be on a LOTR.

You can actually do this by pulling your playfield out straight and onto the last part of the rail and work looking up a little bit (as the flipper coils are close to you), or you can bring it up to the full upright maintenance level with the playfield up against the back box.

I always take a picture with my phone of each area that I am going to work on, that way I always have reference to where the wires go. In this case, it is just two wires to each coil. Regardless, take a picture.

After taking the picture, my first move is to use the soldering iron, and touch the coil lugs where the wires are attached, while lightly pulling each wire off.

Next, you first need to remove the coil stop, which is the right angled piece of metal that is situated at the end of the coil, connected by two hex bolts. This is also a good time to either do a full flipper rebuild (if you want) or at the least, give some consideration to installing a new coil stop (depending on the condition of the coil stop that's in there now, it may be mushroomed, and you'll get overall better power with a new coil stop, just for consideration). But this is not at all necessary for the exchange of the coil.

Once the coil stop has been removed, you'll notice that the coil itself can slide away from the flipper plunger freely.

Now you do everything in reverse.
Make sure that your new coil is placed back in the same orientation as the previous coil. The coil sleeve tip will pass through the hole in the metal which the coil itself rests on. You want to make sure that it slips through and this sometimes takes a little bit of fiddling, but you want the coil sleeve all the way in with the small coil sleeve flange flush with the back of the coil. Andrew sends the coils with sleeves already in place, so you do not need to add anything here.

Reinstall the coil stop (previous one, or new one). Sometimes it can be tricky to line the coil stop fastening holes up with the hex bolts, but you can do it.

Now it's time to reattach the wires.

Andrew was nice enough to put a little bit of solder tinning on the coil lugs, But otherwise I would recommend putting a little bit of solder at the lugs before putting the coil itself in place. Before connecting the wires, I would recommend adding just a touch more solder to the tips of the wires first, and then while holding the appropriate wire ending to the appropriate lug (per the picture you took initially), place the solder iron tip at the tip of the wire and lug while they are in proximity until the solder loosens enough to make a joining of the wire and the lug. For the two seconds it takes for the solder to cool, hold these two items together steady until the solder dries/cools. Sometimes the wire can get rather hot and difficult to hold, in these cases, sometimes I'll hold the wire with a needle nose plier an inch or so away from where I'm soldering.

Then do the same thing for the other side.

While it may take a little longer the first time doing this, there's nothing to be apprehensive about, and more or less changing both coils should take about a total of 10 minutes, more less.

Any questions, please feel free to PM me

Very good explanation aimed at the newbie. Only a couple small things I would add. While the coil is off, clean off the plunger with a rag dampened with alcohol. Also, when tightening the coil stop bolts, squeeze the coil stop towards the coil to take out any slack, and tighten those bolts very tightly.

Nice explanation by ChipScott. Someone should make that a key topic.

I see your point. just because its an easy shooter doesn't make the game's ultimate goal an easily achievable accomplishment. Here, as with all games I suppose, code is the ultimate equalizer, and a powerful tool to render a game a "must have" for a collection. I've never gotten terribly close to beating it, but have enjoyed very long games; I kept thinking how easy it "seemed," but had no clue where I stood relative to the final goal and beating the game's several, if not dozens of objectives fully. I want to understand the code better; but that's the case with every game I own, and every game I have ever flipped. Maybe in 2022 I will make it a resolution to become well versed in more pinball code and objectives. For now, I hoard games if I can afford them, and just flip to stay alive and see what happens while playing with my kids.

I agree with your opinion. Gomez has alot of acumen at designing great feeling, satisfying shots in his games; hence Deadpool's success despite not being a widely appreciated theme (see also: Johnny Mnemonic, which has enjoyed a recent resurgence in popularity despite the theme lacking ANY popularity, and having NO voice actors from the actual film). Gomez's games always feel smooth, accesible but demanding, and exceptionally fun in general. LOTR is no exception, as we all agree. I still think that LOTR is his best design, and hope that someday, he designs a game for Stern which can match that exceptional effort in design and shot layout. JM has a wide variety of short and long shots which make it an exceptional shooter. It requires the player to be ready for ricochets, and be reactive during the game. Plus, Johnny Mnemonic is probably the fastest game I've ever played, which makes it unique and a skilled player's dream game.

LOTR still lacks a quintissential mech which integrates the theme, IMO. the ring magnet is cool, don't get me wrong, but the ball does nothing in that spot. It is a cool experience to hit the shot and watch it freeze, to be sure. However, all magnets in every game still do the same thing: FREEZE the ball in place. So it is still a bit of a "ho hum" experience for the player. the dragon bash toy is just another, albeit shallower, shot to schedule; does not sufficiently affect the ball and general feel of the game during gameplay.

Does anyone else feel the same way? Do you all wish there was more "ball interaction" from this game? I picture the perfect mech, kinda like the monkey in WOZ, which literally lifts the ball and places it into another PF. That is COOL! Something makes me wish for a mech in LOTR which either disappears the ball, or removes it from the main Playfield and replaces it in another spot. I guess I get a high from the ball being diverted and moved physically by the mechanical elements on or under the PF. I suppose we will never know, but I'm still longing for something like that.

Well, I suppose as far as balls being diverted/moved/disappearing, etc...it is cooI that after the ball freezes in the ring and quivers there for a moment (which is a nice pause to watch the mode that is about to start), the ball then gets sucked in and behind the playfield and out of view for a moment to then pop out and ride that neat, long right wireform.

And I suppose as far as mechanisms in a game go, I also think an interesting mech in this game is the lane guide that acts as the back wall for the center Gandalf shot will open during War of the Ents to open up a direct shot to the left tower VUK shot. Most games that have moving rails/guides do so usually to only divert a ball one way or the other usually towards a locking mechanism or diverted pathway only. I can't think of another game that opens up its lane guide to reveal the shot you actually need, which I also find cool and rather unique In this game and I like how it is not overused in the game. So that makes it special.

I don't know if one can consider a VUK really a mech toy, per se, but this game has three, and that's also very cool. There are maybe some other games that have multiple VUKs, but I'm having a hard time thinking of many others that have three. And as far as the the VUK's go, while the Sam/Shire shot is there to just return the ball to the left flipper (which is a quite pretty means of returning the ball to the left in lane), I think it's quite a nice design to say the least from the Gimli shot that up kicks the ball into a coordinated wireform that integrates into the already long and interesting wireform there on the right. On the back left, the VUK sends the ball to what I suppose we could call an upper bumper playfield for the path of the Dead. So I would say that there is a fairly nice integrated use of VUK's in this game, I don't think there's much question about that.

Not sure if you could consider it a mech / toy, but less we forget, that center ramp is essentially a jump shot, and you don't really see that too often. I suppose Iron Maiden uses a center ramp to hit a bull's-eye, but I'm having a hard time thinking about other actual jump shot ramp out there.

I will say that the dragon shot is nice. I have never found it to be in the way when retracted, which is a pleasure, but when it comes out, it really has a good, as folks are saying these days, kinetic feel, during fellowship of the ring multi-ball, and to manage those balls to hit the dragon to register that shot, and then hit a ramp to then send each character over the bridge, for me is hard as hell, and also really exciting and rewarding when you hear those little footsteps, I'm the only one on that?! Haha.

For me, as far as a single game/playfield goes, I really feel that this game stands near the top of the list as far as overall use of a playfield (heck, even the far left orbit goes literally all the way around the back of the playfield to sit into a saucer in the back right corner at the Sauron Tower to then kick out into the upper lanes and fall down into a series of 3 pop bumpers that actually have meaningful use of collecting points to register a character)... there really is no wasted space and there is smooth flow from shot to shot and plenty of opportunity for many varied combo moves / shots. There's not of a whole lot of stand still time and those moments where there is a moment to pause (at the ring while watching the mode/Path the Dead/mystery at the Shire, etc), tends to be nice intermittent moments to catch ones breath, because otherwise this game is really packed with action and shots everywhere.

Congrats on a MAJOR accomplishment!

I’ve owned my LOTR since 2003 and “kill the witch king” is my albatross. Think I’ve beaten that mode 3 times since I’ve owned the game.

Some day…

no need to complete any of the modes to get to valinor just have to have started them all

Oops…I meant “Return of the king” multiball. Which I believe DOES need to be completed to earn Valinor.

I’ve beaten ROTK only a handful of times.

So my weakness is clearly hitting ramp combos consistently. Both ROTK and KILL THE WITCHKING require this ability which I sorely lack.

I don't think this is correct. I am pretty sure you have to do more than just start all modes for Valinor.

Wrong. You need all 6 gifts from the elves, 3 of which will come from completing the MBs. You not only need to start all the modes (including THere and Back Again) but you need to complete 3 modes to earn those 3 other gifts.

I believe you do get 1 from destroying the ring but not sure it’ll count towards starting Valinor since it’s only lit and not collected at that point. Valinor starts immediately after destroying the ring, as long as you have 6 gifts and successfully completed all 3 MBs.

i think i was referring to the original post who implied he could not get to valinor because he could not complete witch king, i should have said you do not need to complete ALL the modes .

iirc there is actually a 7th elf gift that must be collected before valinor will start.

i am not positive but i think you can collect an elf gift each time you destroy the ring so can get 7 gifts from taba, 3 destroy the ring and 3 mb ?

as well what can makes getting to valinor such a challenge if you are not a multiball whiz is that the destroy the ring sequence requires you qualify or have completed the three multiballs on the SAME BALL . meaning that even after you have completed the 7 gifts, been through TABA and finally completed the third multiball you still have to qualify the other two mb to get to destroy the ring, if you have hacked around to complete the mutiballs (for me requiring 2-3 times through ) they get harder to qualify and it can be challenging to get them qualified one last time

There are actually 7 Elf Gifts, for the seventh the Gift arrow will light. I’m pretty sure you need that one as well to qualify Valinor. ROTK mb is my struggle as well. It took me to the 4th cycle through to beat it that game. Also have only beaten it a handful of times.

I’ve collected 4 gifts (which I greatly appreciated) and destroyed the ring, but I’ve never completed all 3 MBs or earned all 6 gifts. My journey to Valinor continues. The greatest adventure, is what lies ahead.

My favorite Elf Gift lately is Ring MultiBall. Not sure if it’s the change in music, the sound of hitting the ring, or that it’s just a fun safe mode. It can be pretty lucrative if you get it with either Gollum or 2X scoring running. Does anyone know exactly how the extra ball lights during that mode? I feel like it’s not a total number of ring shots, but maybe a certain amount within a certain time period? My game is set to factory default.

I think you get the eb with something like 9 ring shots which is the 1 million shot or something along those lines . There is some logic to it as there are 9 members of the fellowship

No idea how the 2nd eb for the tower shot was set at 47!

Got to there and back again the first time today. Amazing machine!

20211016_200925 (resized).jpg

There and Back Again is always a special experience, especially the first time. The music is just so unexpected, yet so fitting.

lord of the ring mods nucléaire

hello i created a mod for the lord pinball machine
Now you will have a real luminous ring
It is my pleasure to share with you for the entire photo video community
The connection is made on the Franck 2Niro ring mods
I used a led strip WS2812B
the ring is made of 3D machine resin
excuse me for my english i used a translator
for the Gold color you have to find a company that masters the rendering

1553D316-0F87-4133-BEE7-45BD89011647 (resized).jpeg

2D154B07-FDA1-4B89-A4FD-BA2F710F344D (resized).png

3DDF0684-1463-4100-B850-5D80E7F12B68 (resized).jpeg

4C9D6A37-7922-48D5-AA35-EF43F6E0181F (resized).png

659A9810-D19B-4FB2-AAD0-7501D07F6633 (resized).jpeg

6F378EE7-45A6-4F45-B36D-92B85076FADD (resized).jpeg

8D813A24-E4DB-49CD-9C56-40E2910E9CA7 (resized).png

9543C139-18AC-41E6-83AD-17601AFD949F (resized).jpeg

A4679FD6-5B53-4DAE-8FF4-CEF2E0B4BDE5 (resized).jpeg

Nicely done!!

Like it!

I would just use a shiny gold spray paint with a gloss coat instead of worrying about finding someone to print it in gold. If done that before with good results.

Are they for sale?

hello I could sell the only parts I have that I have installed on my pinball machine I can send you photos and videos I can send you my mailbox

Just got my hands on a Bill Davis clearcoated NOS LOTR pf
Looks amazing. Will look even better in my game!