(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 5,302 posts
  • 485 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by red-line
  • Topic is favorited by 254 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,113 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_20191114_180258 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
lotr ring opto (resized).jpg
03B116CB-74C5-408A-B82E-9855DFB91B84 (resized).jpeg
8959ADB3-74DE-46AE-B038-9E3BAC78DF36 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
20191110_095309 (resized).jpg
20190818_094127 (resized).jpg
9e38f6758f237db887b73f3b14d36a4fa9cbc097 (resized).jpg
20191105_194633 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191102_005114 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191030_195522 (resized).jpg
398FDFA5-3D41-428C-9016-362CC0F5F3C6 (resized).jpeg
20191030_174557 (resized).jpg
2019-10-25 23.18.55 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 months ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jarbyjibbo.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1541 2 years ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

I'm in. So stoked! It came with a set of uninstalled upgraded flipper coils, worth installing or just enjoy? Seems to play pretty great as is.

I bought and put in the stronger coils but eventually took them back out. They just were way too powerful for me and the originals worked just fine. Don't ask me why I tried the stronger ones if the originals were fine, I guess I wanted to see if I was missing something....

1 week later
#1555 2 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Any one have any experience with the PinGraffix kit for LOTR? Thinking about the pinblades and noticed the "package" they sell. Wondering if the pingrill and other stickers are worth the additional $.....any thoughts? Thanks.

No offense to anyone that has them but 30 mountains spewing lava all over the place just does not remotely fit the theme for me. One mount doom and some other art would have been much better. I have their blades on every other game I have that doesn't have Stern blades available but I guess my LOTR just means too much to me being my first and a gift from my wife (or I'm that big of a Tolkien nerd). Thankfully after 13+ years, a set of blade art befitting an amazing pin was finally released:


These things are absolutly amazing!

#1556 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Question: does anyone have/prefer Path of the dead mod without LED's in the figures? The reason I ask is the cost of purchasing the supplies plus sending to someone to mod is over $200 and supplies can get for less than $100. I did the color DMD mod which was worth every penny, but wondering if this mod is worth the money.

You may not be comfortable doing it yourself but it's really not that difficult with a little creativity. I bought the raw plastic, stand offs, and figs for under $20 and completed the mod. I left only one fig on however, three was a little crowded for my taste.

1 week later
#1576 2 years ago
Quoted from BC_Gambit:

Just a picture of my ultimate LOTR ball hangup (I know there are many others, this one just made me smile) .
And of course at the end of a decent multiball!
And a bonus cross reference to the LOTR Habitrail mod thread, this helped me out though I definitely rolled that project out slowly on my end:

Gasp, no color DMD?!?!? It adds a lot to this title, I highly recommend it

3 weeks later
#1606 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I have had a shaker in my regular edition LOTR for a few months and it is too violent. It is a regular motor from Cointaker not the red tremor. I swapped the motor from my Stern ST and it is good in the LOTR. The CT motor was put in the ST and it is too violent in that one! I contacted CT and was told I can send it back and get a Stern motor to replace it at additional cost. I cannot find this motor on their website or I would have gotten it in the first place. Anyone else have this happen? Thanks.

I've never tired anything but the Stern shakers but I really like them. I get all mine at PBL when I order other parts'n'things to consolidate shipping.


#1610 2 years ago
Quoted from FlippyD:

Bump for SillyOldElf's decals, they are super high quality and look gorgeous. They also work just as well in The Hobbit as they do in LOTR!

These are indeed amazing! I've had my NIB lotr since 2004 and it wasn't until I saw these that i found a set worthy of the pin. I cant recomend them highly enough. It not only very much fits the theme of each area of the game but it also reminds me of the book illustrations as well.

#1613 2 years ago
Quoted from Mfsrc791:

Would you go with those decals or mirrors?

My 2 cents, the decals. There is no other set of decals for any pin that I've seen that actually help tell the story and set the atmosphere. I do prefer the decals over blades anyway though. They look nice but every set I've had, has eventually scratched when raising the pf.

3 weeks later
#1670 2 years ago

As another option, I did mine for about $20 back in the day. Got a piece of plastic from ace hardware. Stripped my potd and used it as a guide with my template router bit. Bought a few spacers from Terry at pbl. Screws I already had but could have been picked up at ace too. For the lighting, I just used a standard led in a 555 base hot glued into the fig. I drilled a hole into the back of the figure where you couldn't see it and hooked it on to the back board lighting. I personally only did one figure because I didn't like how all 3 blocked my view of the potd.

Just another option for those DIYers out there.

1 week later
#1677 2 years ago
Quoted from Dbaum88:

I do notice that balls in left lane on Path of the Dead stays left and fall into left trough area instead of hitting rail ramp.

It's supposed to. There is a souls payout when it lands there which you miss when you ride the rails. There should still be a plastic/drop protector out there for purchase, I read someone else bought the mold and rights.

3 weeks later
#1765 2 years ago

I only use perfect play rubbers from Pinball Life if I'm not using traditional rubbers. IMHO they are the only thing that plays close enough to traditional rubber to satisfy my rubber snobbishness

1 week later
#1814 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Looking for the following ramps for my LOTR refurb.
If you are willing to part with one or more of these please let me know.

Parts reference:515-7319-00-80

Parts reference:535-9344-00

Parts reference:515-7319-00-80

Are they missing or broken? If not, can't you just replate them?

1 month later
#1907 2 years ago

As a PSA for anyone looking to replace your lock down bar, please be aware that Stern changed their LDB's mid run in April of 2005. Every site I could find that lists the old part number 500-5757-02-00 as "working for LOTR" and the new part number 500-6882-00-00 as "not working for LOTR". This is potentially inaccurate depending on when your pin was manufactured. I unfortunately found this out the hard way as I trusted the site's description and shipped the new button-less LDB directly to my powdercoater since it is over an hour away from me. Got home almost 2 months later with all of my beautiful new pieces for 4 different games just to find out it's the incorrect LDB for my LOTR. Definitely disappointing given the expense and rarity of the 500-5757-02-00 LDB and to have wasted the effort to have it powder coated.

Please be on the look out if you find yourself in the same boat!!!

20170917_132954 (resized).jpg

20170918_202008 (resized).jpg


#1909 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I believe you just need to change out your latch mechanism to match your new bar.

Which I definitely thought of, unfortunately I haven't been able to find one anywhere.

#1911 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Is this not it?
You could send Terry an e-mail with a picture of the lockdown bar you need to match to see what he has.

"Does NOT fit RollerCoaster Tycoon, The Simpsons Pinball Party, Lord of the Rings, Ripley's Believe It Or Not, The Sopranos, Terminator 3, Elvis, and Elvis Gold. Also does not fit widebody games WWF, Guns-N- Roses, and Batman Forever."

No, the close together tab ldb receivers aren't really made often as replacments. The lock down bars themselves are hardly able to be found. It would need to come off of another game. I've ordered the spread out tab LDB and I'll just have them re powder coat it. I just wanted to save someone else the hassle in case they have a late model LOTR.

#1913 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I thought the "does not fit" meant the holes of the original game. I would e-mail Terry and see if he has a latch mech that matches the lockbar tabs you have.

No, it means it doesn't fit the original lock down bar that comes with the game. I've already bought the correct LDB now and it's shipped to my PC so I'm good.

#1915 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It seems that the latch receiver assemblies are very hard to find at this point (part number 500-6509-00). I guess they were already mostly bought up by people that had similar problems that you are having. People have been posting about this problem since around 2012 when powder coating got popular.

Yep, it's just too bad that most sites still have incorrect information on their product pages that continues to lead to this confusion.

#1936 2 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

Wow, you learn something new everyday. I have never seen it that way. I'll have to try a red bulb out.

My OG LOTR shipped with red as well

1 month later
#2031 1 year ago
Quoted from bcrage88:

Anyone have issues with the ball rejecting in the top scoop, my game plays super fast as I have it jacked and there are a ton of rejections on that scoop. Any ideas on how to fix this.

Remove the suped up flipper coils? I had them in for a while but they were way too strong so I swapped them back out.

1 week later
#2072 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

Great, thank you. I sent an email but I'll shoot a PM over as well.
Just curious though, does anyone actually use the high power coils and find that they work well? I even tried playing around with the pitch on the game and the ball still whips around like a bat out of hell.

I couldn't stand them in mine and removed them after 50 plays or so.

#2074 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

Did you go back to the stock coils or something else? I never played on the stock ones so I have no idea how they play and the issues people have with them. Apparently they lose power after a few games?
I got a reply from Andrew @ APB Enterprises so it looks like I'll give those a try.

I read too much online and thought I was missing something so I bought the new coils, I never had an issue with the stock ones. I put the stock ones back in. Trust me it's not "a few plays". Some puns, would loose power after long playing sessions. LOTR was my first and only pin for about 3 years so it got quite a bit if play time and I never had the issue.

#2110 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

I’ve been running the pinsound board for a couple weeks now and the orchestral mix available for it really takes the game to another level. Bonus points for fitting nicely alongside my led ocd

New clear rips of scenes from the movies without the distortion on the originals would absolutly knock the mix out of the park.

2 weeks later
#2215 1 year ago

I don't remember the specifics as far as count (nor the context it came up or if it was even on Pinside or RGP) but cant we net the same thing just by removing a few winds from the original coils? Less winds=stronger coils if I remember correctly. Has anyone with coil issues attempted it?

#2226 1 year ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Can anybody provide some guidance and destroying the "ring?" I have gotten there many times, hit the four shots, nail the shot through the ring and back through the wire path...even several times, but never got to destroy it. Am I missing something?? thanks!!! Love the game...awesome!! Want a second, faster game soon, but this is a keeper!!

Switch test the ring, I'm sure it's just not registering 100% of the time therefore not giving you credit for the final shots in the mode.

1 week later
#2258 1 year ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

48 appears to be working!! could be magnet fuse or coil I suppose. the testing all shows it works...I would pay good $ in STL to just diagnose and fix.

Have you tried playing through DTR with the glass off to see if you can get it to go with good placement of the ball?

2 months later
#2608 1 year ago

That's weird. I've had the game for 13 years and never once had a magnetized ball. I swap them annually or so based on plays.

#2639 1 year ago
Quoted from Rockytop:

I picked up a sweet HEP LOTR yesterday from a buddy in Nashville.
It not only looks great, it plays so solid. It feels like a Bally/Williams. I’m guessing Chris changed the flipper mechs...I’m not sure what other magic he worked on this thing, but it feels and shoots amazing.
(Sorry for the bad pics...I was too lazy to take the glass off right now)

I see Gollum is still after the ring

1 month later
#2774 1 year ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

I"m installing my own Path of Dead Mod. Have the figures, the lights wired correctly and I have the Pinbits plastic that goes on top.
My question is (1) what is the best technique to secure the lights inside of the figures and (2) what is the best way to attach the feet of the figures to their bases?
Double sided tape? Glue? Hardest part for me is this step and doing it right.

I drilled out the back of the fig and hot glued my led in. Then I screwed the fig through the bottom with a small wood screw.

1 week later
#2801 1 year ago
Quoted from neoskywalker:

Quick opinion - been heavily looking for a LOTR table for months:
Does a HUO shipped for $6100 sound like a tasty deal or should I hold out?

My wife bought me mine NIB in 2004 as my very first pin and it's never going anywhere.

If it's in HUO shape I would say go for it.

#2845 1 year ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

It looks better in the picture. It's really weak in person.

I tied mine in off the GI on the back panel but I used a full size 555 led bulb hot glued into a hole in the back. Plenty bright enough.

#2886 1 year ago
Quoted from FlipsMcgee:

Great, thanks for the info. Glad I’m not crazy. Using headphones helps a bit, it never gets too soft that way.
If you do end up releasing something to help alleviate the issue, please let us know!
BTW, my issue with Wool’s is that Pinsound is simply not recognizing it on my USB, even when there are no other soundtracks on the USB. Not sure why, I’ve sent him a PM.

I would suggest doing a thread search for pinsound because I remember reading several threads with similar issues and the fixes to get through it.

4 weeks later
#3062 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Do you use a digital level?

I use this that I have for my wood working hobby and love it. It's super compact and I can get it in most places I want to on any PF I'm leveling.

iGaging AngleCube Digital Level + Bevel Gauge 2 in 1 amazon.com link »

3 months later
#3254 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

Pippin seems to be missing his head in my game... I found a cheap-ish replacement on eBay, so I should be good to go with figures.
Did Stern ditch the removable weapons for these figures on the slings or were those perhaps lost along the way?

None had them from Stern on my NIB pin. I bought the big figure pack very early on (2004) and superglued them all in their hands. I think maybe one has fallen off in 14 years.

#3270 1 year ago
Quoted from mmuglia:

I'm considering the color DMD. My collection is made up of 6 Stern games. If I buy it for one, I'll have to buy it for all...that's just how it goes.
I would love to get the Palantir projected eye mod, but can't seem to find it anywhere. I haven't see that Jay is making them anymore, but would definitely buy one if I can find it.
I am on the list with Ryan for his next run of habitrail mods. I can't wait to get that clear plastic out of there!
I ordered the sword tip decal, the shire decal, and a topper from Tilttoper.com which should all be here in a few days. The topper purchase is like the ColorDMD...all my other games have them so I had to.

Buy three and they throw in free shipping! What a steal

#3281 1 year ago

I prefer the hi rez or dots XL depending on the title so I always go with LCD on my games. Just a taste thing and what you happen to prefer.

1 month later
#3403 1 year ago

Similarly I use a razor blade and goof off.

1 week later
#3423 11 months ago
Quoted from kmann:

Re: flipper coils losing power, that’s why a lot of people switch them out. Pinball life sells high powered ones. Those came with mine but I found them to be too powerful so replaced them with the mid powered ones that apb enterprises sells through their pinside shop. I found those to work well.

I have to agree with this, the PBL coils are way too strong. Felt like a ghostbusters with all the air balls after I installed them. Went with the APB and it's a good fit.

2 weeks later
#3443 11 months ago
Quoted from pipes:

I agree. I enjoy completing DTR much more when it's set to 2 ball. I never had an issue with it.

I have had issues in the past but that was before I swapped out the coils. The ball wouldn't get up there with enough umph to knock it out as reliably as I would like. Ever since I put the APB coils on, I haven't noticed the issue. I think as long as you have either the PBL (too strong for my taste) or APB coils, you'll be fine on the two ball.

#3450 11 months ago
Quoted from pipes:

Yes, they're right in between the stock coils and the PBL coils. I've tried them all and the APB are perfect IMO.

Agreed, they absolutely do and are well worth the purchase price. I actually put the PBL coils in and somehow lost or sold my old coils but because they are so overpowered I had to buy the stock coils again. Then I bought a 4th set of coils for the game (the APB) and finally have the right set for the game IMO.

1 week later
#3475 11 months ago

It's a pain in the ass to install and changes the physics of the ball on the PF. I did it on exactly one game I have owned and never did it again. Not worth it (or necessary) in my opinion. BTW my LOTR I purchased new in 2004 and it is still in great shape. I bought a replacement PF, had it professionally clear coated, and it's hanging on the wall in case I ever need it down the line. To me, that is my protection since this game wont ever leave my collection (it was my first pin and a surprise Christmas present from my wife).

#3482 11 months ago

If anyone doesn't have the APB coils, please do yourself a favor and pick them up. It really helps when hitting the left ramp or center ramp during normal play but especially helps on those long playing sessions (with LOTR ball times, we all know how often that happens). Definitely the best $30 spent on a mod for your game.

#3492 11 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

Funny thing is, I have a set of them here. I was worried it would change the feel of the game (shots being harder/faster).
I'd love for the game to play the way it does now but remain the same strength during long gameplay.
Do the upgraded coils feel different?

A little but nothing too crazy like the PBL coils and in my opinion worth the small change even for those who want it to feel 100% original because of what it gives you on long ball times. I actually prefer them a tad bit stronger at all times because it makes the ring shot and most notably the left ramp a little more reliable. I used to get 2ish roll backs for every one good shot on the left ramp with my original coils.

#3496 11 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

Yes. Even easier, just snip old ones, and leave a tiny piece so you can refer to the wire colours.
Watch a couple soldering videos on YouTube, and ask any questions you have here
I've never done it on a Stern but I've done it on many B/W games. Same idea though.
the only thing that I am unsure about is how you align the flipper bats. I know with B/W games, you can put a toothpick in the alignment hole and just rest the bottom of the bat on that. Not sure how you do it with Stern though.

Simply line them up with the ball return guides for the in lanes. Stern games still have an indentation for alignment as well but I prefer to line them up perfectly straight with the in lane guides as my reference point. Tighten the bat until you can just barely move it with some decent force. Adjust until straight and then finish final tightening.

#3503 11 months ago
Quoted from Maken:

No, this is not good advice! Stern games don't all have flippers that align with the guides. Deadpool and Ghostbusters come to mind.
To do it properly, use the holes.
Stern uses holes like B/W, but unlike B/W you must point the tip of the bat towards the hole. Simple.

While I appreciate your passion (and your exclamation mark)... I wasn't giving "advice for all stern games". I was answering a question regarding lining up a LOTR flipper bat. An easy way for a beginner to line it up, is to line up the surface of the flipper rubber with the return lane. Which coincidentally (to your point) aligns also with the center of the tip of the flipper bat lining up to the hole.

I personally find that easier to do on games like this where they do coinside as that gives me a larger surface to align vs the sometimes finicky "middle" of the flipper bat. Maybe I'm just too old and my eyes aren't that good or my hands are too shaky but that is what works better for me. To each their own...

#3516 10 months ago
Quoted from PapaKilo:

Just played a game after installing the APB Medium coils. Wow what a nice upgrade. They really do feel like how the stock ones feel at game start but last forever! Add another happy customer to the list. Also shipping was super fast. I placed my order at like 4pm on Monday.

Glad they worked out for you too

2 weeks later
#3531 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it much. I wondered why the additional hardware was needed, if you could simply use clips and attach it to the existing sub in the cabinet. I'm not great with adding sound or light mods. The Polk speaker is still in the box. Maybe I'll tinker with it this weekend and try to get it attached.
Last question. Can you attach multiple pins to a single Polk external sub? I have 2 subs total. One is attached to Tron and works great. I want to add LOTR to that one, and then use the other speaker on 2 other pins. I've seen comments that you can use 2 pins on each sub, and I've seen others saying up to 4 pins on each sub is fine. Does anyone know from personal experience? Is it as simple as snaking speaker wire into the cabinets and clipping to the existing speakers? Are there drawbacks to that method?
Thanks again.

Yes, it is that simple. A few cents worth of speaker wire is all I've ever used. You can remove the existing wires from the cabinet speaker and extend a new run of speaker wire to your external or do what I do and just add the wire to the cabinet speaker terminals while leave the existing hooked up. The external sub has a left and right input, just hook one pin to each.

#3539 10 months ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

While we are on the topic, does anyone have an external sub along with pinsound? The pinsound guys told me to use the headphone jack on the pinsound original, but I barely hear my sub like that.
Can someone look at my setup and let me know if that's how you do it too?
[quoted image]

I just hooked up my pinsound+ a few days ago and made no changes to the speaker wire I have soldered to the cabinet speaker terminals going out to my sub input. Sounds as loud as it did pre install.

For what it's worth, I have one PSW10 running on my LOTR & MET and it handles them both fine. I personally wouldn't hook two pins up to the same input but to each their own.....

#3541 10 months ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

So you hooked up to the cabinet speaker. Do you hear the sub like that? I can't tell I have a sub at all the way pinsound recommended to hook it up

Yes, just as loud as before. Still shakes the game from underneath the pin.

#3547 10 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Any recommendations on the best speaker wire to use? Anyone notice a difference and recommend anything?
So evil making children cry with Smaug growling through a Polk subwoofer. Yet, so satisfying! Just wait until my GB screaming ghost makes an appearance...anyone else have that happen at like 3 a.m. when you are trying to play "quietly."

Don't get anything fancy, it's just stranded wire. You're not setting up a hifi system. Anything from 12 to 18 gauge will do you just fine. Just depends on how fancy you want the insulation to look. You can even go to your local hardware store and buy it by the foot if you didn't want an entire spool.

#3553 10 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

The $99 one is the shaker I put in my regular LOTR.

The Stern $149 shaker listed only says LOTRLE, it still works on the regular LOTR I take it? That's probably the only mod I don't have on my LOTR. Is a Whitestar compatible shaker a recent adaptation? Why the heck wouldn't I already have one on my LOTR? Hmmmm....... I'm terribly vexed!

Is there a PBL $99 version for LOTR, I don't see it on the site.

#3567 10 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

LotR standard doesn't support shaker. You have to update to 10.02 and swap in a PAL chip. Then your LotR is effectively an LE.
So either of the motors work for LotR. The reason it isn't listed is that adding it is really a hack.

Any note on where to get the two roms from? John's site is still down from 2017. I just found the other thread walking through how to do it.

#3598 10 months ago
Quoted from scottslash:

If bending the actuator doesn't help, just replace the switch. Notoriously flaky.

What he said....

#3605 10 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

It isn't clear to me what is going on there and why it works. You cut the fork off and then bent what is left under itself? Don't you want to bend it upward so it puts more leverage on the switch?

The arm presses on a white micro switch at the base of the arm. If the arm is bent incorrectly, the switch will always be pressed down, not press down at all or not press down with the appropriate weight, location, or motion of the ball. All switches of this sort work this way.

#3610 10 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

Check the lip of the Cliffy at the trough exit, if it extends pass the wood that could be your issue.

Tough to tell but that's what it looks like in the photo. It needs to be back just off the edge of the wood, it can't be hanging over the lip of the bevel.

#3612 10 months ago
Quoted from netman63129:

It is currently flush with the edge of the bevel and not hanging over but I will back it off and see if that helps....Thanks!

Sometimes even that is enough to skew the angle of the ball and the auto plunger just won't strike it right. I have had miss aligned cliffies cause weak auto plunges, I've even had it make the ball jump when plunged. Sometimes it only works on auto plunge and when you try to plunge it is weak or of angle. You just have to play with the location until you get it right.

I use 2 part protection, with mylar in the shooter lane and then keep the cliffy back a little from the edge so it doesn't affect the ball.

#3619 9 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

There's really not a "frame". Just plexiglass with the translite taped to it. Then the 3 plastic trim pieces and the bottom lift channel. All the plastic pieces are available from PBL, Marco, etc.

All my translites have actual glass not plexi. You would just need to order a piece of glass the correct size (locally would be ideal if you can find it) and then the plastic pieces mentioned above.

#3625 9 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Right, so the beard dick isn't so pronounced that it's poking me in the eyeball. My jerk friend pointed it out to me (hah!) and ruined the LE for me. I hadn't considered an alt-translite when I bought my LOTR, but in hindsight, that would work....

The gold was a little too much for me when I first saw the translite on the LE version. I know it's on glass and that is great, I just would have rather they kept the image the same and maybe metalized part of it or something fancy rather than just drawing a ridiculous gold outline around all the details. I would have definitely swapped over to the regular trans if I owned the LE.

#3639 9 months ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Just to follow up on this. Tonight I soldered speaker wire directly to the cabinet speaker. Hooked it up to my sub and not only is the sub still not working, but I had little to nothing coming out of the cab speaker. Disconnected from the sub and it's all back to normal. So at this point there seems to be no way to be able to use a sub with pinsound.
For reference, the other line in channel is connected to MMR and sounds fantastic

I have my pinsound plus in my LOTR hooked up exactly like this and it works just fine.

1 week later
#3720 9 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

metal trim recently powder coated, just awaiting time to fit:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Very close to mine. I used Grecian gold vein and really like it


grecian-gold-vein-evs-1512-dt20180702175144635-thumbnail (resized).jpgs-l1600 (resized).jpg
#3751 9 months ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

Still can’t decide between brass and black.
Now with matching feet..?[quoted image][quoted image]

I went gold on mine, black stood out too much. The gold blends in better.

1 week later
#3808 8 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

I have a chance to buy a BEAUTIFUL HUO LOTR....I mean it is pristine. The seller seems amazing, just trying to decide. His machine is completely stock; does anyone know if there are any POtD mods or Jays palantir mods kicking around for sale?

A good deal on an immaculate HUO LOTR > Mods

Find the mods or don't later, you've still got a great example of one of the best games out there.

#3814 8 months ago

Can't live your life saying "what if"....

#3843 8 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Hey guys.
Anyone know who sells the POtD mod? I bought from Hemi years ago but I’m sure he is out. Are there any instructions how to make one? I have a ton of extra figures I purchased in the event of a remake/vault that are sitting waiting to be used....

I made mine very easily. I just took off the POTD mini PF and used a pattern trim router bit with a bearing in my router table to cut the plastic down to the exact size of the POTD. A few holes drilled for screw access, some stand offs and I was good to go.

#3846 8 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Not discounting this at all, but you can get the plastic from Pinbits for like $20. I found the figurines brand new in the box on mercari.com for $20 as well. Also found a Gandalf on Shadowfax there.

I hear ya, definitely would be easier. I could pay to get my oil changed too, but I'm a DIY guy for good or for bad. I happened to have everything I needed to do it and enjoy working in my shop.

#3847 8 months ago

Ok, installed the shaker in my non LE LOTR following the directions here:


Fairly straight forward, new PAL, new 10.02 rom, piggy back the red/white wire, and hook up #5 on the J9. All that but no shaking still. what solenoid is the shaker? #24 "optional"?

#3849 8 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

Do you have the transistor at Q12? Mine didn't and I had to add it. See post #27 of: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition

Yep, sure does.

#3854 8 months ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I also put a shaker in a non LE LOTR. Mine would not work until I reset pin to factory settings. After it is working you can change the settings.

Tried that, unfortunately it didn't help. What solenoid test is the shaker on the 10.02 code?

#3859 8 months ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I would check step 18 in the link you provided and make sure that wire is seated in the connector properly. You can use a meter and a paper clip to check it from the connector back to wherever it goes.

True story, it was working the entire time. It's just so weak, I couldn't feel it. My sub shakes the game more than the shaker does. Once Lamprey posted the solenoid, I could finally test it.

I used the PBL shaker as I do in all my games. This might be one case where the red tremor might have paid off assuming it's stronger like it is in all the other pins.

#3879 8 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I know I'm in the minority here, but I feel the same way about LEDs on this title.

I'm with you. Although I have replaced the flashers with LED's, all other lighting is incandescent and I prefer the warm yellowish old timey natural feel for this title. Almost all of the other pins I have owned that weren't already LED when manufactured, I put LED's in. For this title I just could never bring myself to do it.

#3884 8 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Aren’t there now LED’s (besides the ones you mention) that are designed to virtually match the look of the old incandescent bulbs?

With an LED board and better quality warm LED's you can come fairly close but to my eyes it still isn't the same...... and costs money. For me the math just doesn't make sense to try and come close.

#3915 8 months ago

Times a million! Being a huge fan of the books, these are the only blades that are good enough for my LOTR.

I only use perfect play colored rubbers from Pinball Life. For me it's the closest to the original feel of real rubber.

#3939 8 months ago

Drilled a hole in the back and hot glued mine in.

#3960 8 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anyone have any spare individual aotd figures? Since they come in sets of three and it takes 4 to do the version with each lit figure representing a lane, I figure a few people have spares. I would like to buy at least one spare.

I just put the KOTD in the back corner of the POTD. I had the set but more than one just looked too crowded to me. I can still see the ball and lanes very clearly and nudge as needed which I like but it still has the presence of the dead figure without looking like a toy factory. Subtlety can get lost these days pretty easily.

#3965 8 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

That’s a good point. I’d love to see a pic. Do you have a spare or two then?

It's disconnected right now from other work but here you guys go. This is my DIY POTD setup.

20190306_155348 (resized).jpg
#3967 8 months ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

If you're only going to have 1 figure, is there any point having that large clear piece that covers the POTD?

Yes, it looks totally boss. JK, I don't really talk like that lol

The original plan was to add the three figures but I didn't like the way it looked. It was too crowded and it blocked the POTD lane indicators on the back board to much for me. I think the plastic looks pretty slick and in line with what is coming out stock now as far as protectors goes so I left it. I think it would look weird with just a block of plastic at the top but maybe that's just because I am used to it.

#3978 8 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Here is how 4 potd figures look on my machine. I modified one duplicate to make him look different from his twin, and gave him a different weapon. The clear platform came from a mod maker who wired it to light up each figure solid or blinking according to the path lighting patterns. So it still gives functional guidance on which lane to nudge toward by lighting the figures. Im pretty happy with it.
[quoted image]

Why did you decide to go with the big white acorn nuts?

#3986 8 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

I think the acorns came with the kit. What would look better? I wish there were skull caps to put over the acorns.

Are there threaded posts sticking up from underneath? I just used 4 low profile pan head screws from the top on mine which you can see in the pic above.

#4014 8 months ago
Quoted from hawknole:

I recently shared a new PinSound mix available for Download from the PinSound Community. Based on some feedback, I have revised my original LOTR hawknole mix and taken out all non-LOTR music. I sourced some new LOTR music and made some minor tweaks to some of the existing sound files.

What type of non-LOTR music did you have in the mix? I have been playing with it for a while and nothing comes to mind but maybe I just didn't notice or maybe I'm confusing the three different mixes I have on it.

#4036 8 months ago

Those are too small for a flasher, they are 555 size.

#4042 8 months ago

Yikes....that looks painfull. Nobody needs an LED there that bad.

That thing needs a Magnum bulb condom

#4048 8 months ago
Quoted from jsm172:

I am torn between sillyoldelf side art or mirror blades. I’m going to wait and decide.

Sillyoldelf all the way!

#4076 7 months ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

My top right tower solenoid isnt working even in test. Double checked wiring and didnt see anything of not. Any suggestions?

Any voltage at all at the lugs?

1 month later
#4207 6 months ago
Quoted from Robertstone0407:

Something im working on to replace those plastics.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wood as a medium, kudos to you. You don't see that too much anymore. Looking forward too seeing it finished.

#4228 6 months ago
Quoted from Yodamingus:

Iv got 10.00 in there
I thought 10.01 is for the LE?
Did not know about the option to drop it from the front .. so it’s not that I was holding the flippers ..causing the drop
Looks like my bubble is right on but maybe I tiny bit low in front

Some people (like me) have 10.01 in their regular for the shaker... although it's almost indiscernible when you have a powered sub as well. Whenever I get a wild hair, I may try to figure out how to get it to shake closer to a modern stern pin.

#4245 6 months ago
Quoted from Yodamingus:

Color DMD is cool but I prefer the original Orange ..I think it complements the colors of the game
I do have the Arwin plastic protection .. and since iv cleaned it up and replaced rubbers ..the game plays fast and i'm loving it..
Must have played 50 games over the weekend .. and now i'm thinking i probably should install those cliffy's.. maybe not all of them though ..

There are so many animations that you miss with the standard DMD. I have owned this game since I bought it new in 2004 and have played it tons. As soon as I put in the color dmd, I was amazed by the details I never noticed.

1 week later
#4264 5 months ago

Don't forget to try the forum search function. It can be pretty useful since most things have been covered before.

Here you go:


#4280 5 months ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Thank you
I will run my finger across these areas and check for dust
I appreciate the responses
I have bought some games and am pretty good at looking at them but when the claim is virtually no plays or very low I just don’t want to get home and see the hole in the back had a little wear on it
Also,I would like to be fair and honest with the couple,bit want to be fair to myself if all those things check out
Thanks again

Buy on condition not claims regarding quantity of games played since that can always be manipulated. If a 15 year old game looks like it's got 300 plays on it, you'll be able to tell. I can tell you from someone who has owned his LOTR from 2004 and only has about 500 plays on it, they are out there.... and I would expect a mint for it too (not that I would ever sell it).

Pay exactly what it's worth to you and no more. Then you can enjoy it with no regrets.

#4298 5 months ago

How the hell does the top of the PF rail in the shire have that much wear. That has to have been routed.

Go find yourself one of these

20190522_183922 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#4351 5 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

Thanks for the feedback!
dumbass also helped me directly. Tested switch with multimeter and it is stuck closed. I think a friend has an appropriate replacement switch, which is great since Marco is currently sold out of direct replacement.
I have some extra Titan post rubbers that I will use to replace the battered ones for now, and order better ones, along with a couple switches.

Not to state the obvious as it was already mentioned (but since you didn't mention that you tried adjusting the switch arm) are you 100% positive that it isn't just registering closed because your switch arm is bent in such a way as to always register as closed? This commonly happens on switches like this (either not registering or always registering). Just wouldn't want you going through that time and trouble when a simple bend of the blade with a screw driver would solve it.

3 weeks later
#4442 4 months ago

I personally would never do blades wet on my pins. I rested the service rails on the LDB receiver and had my wife push down on the apron to lift the back of the PF up. That's the way I install all of my blades and it always works great.

#4451 4 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

I just installed PDI glass on my LOTR, and the reflection of the backglass vanished completely. I can still seem some of the DMD dots, but what a difference!

Absolutely! I made the mistake of buying one sheet, now every game has a sheet.

1 week later
#4520 4 months ago

I just shove mine in whatever direction is needed while its sitting there. This isn't fine china, it's a machine designed to be commercially operated and I'd be amazed if you were able to break the wire. Don't be scared to manhandle it when needed from time to time. Hell the last time I missed DTR on the last shot that dribbled off the ramp I thought I was going to break the glass

1 week later
#4543 3 months ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

A few more questions -
Are the pop bumpers supposed to be weirdly shaped? trying to figure out if they are like that naturally or if mine has chips out of it.
Any suggestions for a good topper?
Planning on Palantir mod, any other amazing mods I should seek out?
Thanks again

Sillyoldelf side art is the only way to go especially if you're a fan of the books imo. It's not called "Lord of the Valcanos".....

The topper above is really nice. If I didn't have any original Matt Mckee topper from back in the day, I would probably purchase on of those. Color DMD is a must of course (I have LCD on all my games and prefer it). The shaker mod I wasn't impressed with for all the trouble it was to put in on a non LE game. I barely notice it at all especially with an external sub attached (which seems to shake the game more than the actual shaker). PDI glass is a must on all my games. Be prepared to by a sheet for every game if you buy 1 sheet because it really makes a noticeable difference. The aforementioned palantir mod is a must as well. Cliffy's around the game are required for all my games. The rest of the mods available (of which there are many), are based on your personal taste and budget. Fortunately LOTR is feature packed, artfully coded, and fully equipped so doesn't require much to make it feel "finished". Stern did that very well from the factory.

#4545 3 months ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Thanks for the suggestions everyone!
Got the color dmd and palantir ordered!
is it worth it to upgrade speakers? Speaker recommendations? Loving this game

Spend the money on a pinsound instead of the speakers imo. The hi fidelity sound packages are amazing. You can get an external sub which is nice too.

#4555 3 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

Interesting. I don't have a sub, and love the shaker on LOTR.
LOTR (not LE) was our first pin in November, 2018, we played for awhile without shaker because the cord from shaker to backbox had become disconnected in the move. Once it was fixed and working, we all thought the shaker made the game much better. The feedback when you hit Balrog in FOTR multiball is great - get the rumble, and know you have to hit the ramp. We also liked the slight rumble when you collect fellowship members and during other parts of the game.
But, our LOTR came with upgraded ROM and shaker already installed by previous owner.
Someday, I'd like to get Pinsound and upgraded speakers, but don't feel the need for a sub. I've heard the different mixes, and would like to try them.

Maybe it's because I am used to the shaker intensity on my other sterns but I would say that on my LOTR, the shaker is probably about 10-20% as intense as the shakers on my other games. It's just not very noticeable. I wish it was as i have shakes on all my other games and love them.

#4575 3 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

This is true from a pure art standpoint, but I think it's important to mention that the sillyoldelf side art is extremely difficult to install and really requires that the whole playfield be taken out.

Agreed that the PF needs to be removed but I always remove the PF when installing cabinet art, even the thicker ones from other retailers. As I posted before, I use a very simple 2 person process:

I rest the back of the service rails on the LDB receiver and had my wife push down on the apron to lift the entire PF up out of the cab. That's the way I install all of my blades and it always works great. Doing this, the sillyoldelf art was no harder than any of the other 10+ sets of blades I have installed.

#4576 3 months ago
Quoted from jedi42:

The shaker I have in mine (aftermarket on the 2003 model) is just as intense as my LAH. Perhaps yours isn't operating properly???

I don't doubt that at all unfortunately I wouldn't know where to begin to check to isolate what the issue is. It works as I can feel it when I keep the sub off but like I said, it's really weak. I followed all the instructions from the thread on the topic. I've had many a shaker in my games but never one with a weak current issue (which is the only thing I can imagine it being to cause the weakness).

1 week later
#4617 3 months ago

I prefer LCD as well for whatever my vote is worth.

#4639 3 months ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

hello i own lotr for long time but she never got it back home because she was in bad shape and i hate the ugly design of the cabinet with the poor cheap stern cabinet print art who made for this machine. i think 90% of the people who have this machine have wear on the cabinet decals.
so i decide to do a project! to restore this machine and to make powder coating. i powder coat it with lotus black who shiny and have some sparkle. but i didnt found design that i like. all of what i found was copy paste of photos or just boring designs like the original so i decide to take this as a project also hahah. so after a lot of hours i made this cabinet decals and im very happy with them! most of the photos and the designs are hand painting with wacum on pc and its looks very good! they are 300dpi and they was printed with uv printer on vinyl and after that got glossy illumination. they are water/scratch/uv proof and the results are awesome! its looks bad in photos but its looks awesome in real life. im sorry but im not sharing the files. its over 200 hours of work i wish you like them
btw guys i solve the problems of the vuk for the shine and i will share with you free 3d printed solution that you can print! its works awesome and not need switch! i will share it asap!!!!
i have another 2 extra sets of this decals so if you want one please pm me.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good. I really enjoy powder coating my pins. It personalizes it and makes it fun! I would really like the original art in a hi rez radcal type of decal I could put over the original art.

20190811_124357 (resized).jpg20190811_124417 (resized).jpg20190811_124427 (resized).jpg
#4645 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Drove a LONG way Saturday to join this club but was able to grab a low play machine which is bone stock. The prior owner bought it from an operator 15 years ago and apparently only put about 500 plays on it in those 15 years. He had no idea how to remove the glass or do any maintenance to the machine. It appears to have most of the stock black rubbers still on the machine, playfield was a bit dirty but looks very nice after some Novus 2. Balrog wasn’t registering hits so I sorted that out yesterday, turns out it was a broken wire in the shrink tubing. Replaced all wires and rebuilt that loom, works great now.
One question I do have, the shooter rod was riding very high, it hits the ball almost at the top and doesn’t propel it very well. I disassembled it and the rod seems straight, there doesn’t seem to be a way to adjust the shooter location without drilling new holes in the cabinet for the two screws that hold down the plate on the inside. I skimmed the housing last night just to get the rod a little better aligned but is there something else I should be looking for? Seems odd that the rod would be this far off. Thanks!
[quoted image]

Isn't there play in the shooter rod housing install? Are you sure it wasn't installed to high? Loosen the screws securing the plate to the housing and see if it needs to be adjusted lower.

#4667 3 months ago

Prismatic Grecian Gold Vein


Make sure a final gloss clear is applied as well. Seals it all up, smooths it out, and makes the color pop nicely.

1 month later
#4849 57 days ago
Quoted from insx:

My modified Palantir is a tad bright![quoted image][quoted image]

DIY or purchased from someone? If so who?

#4851 57 days ago
Quoted from insx:

When I got the game, the glass ball was stuck in place with white tack and the LED was shining up from the hole. I modified the ball and brought the LED up behind it and it's nearly blinding from a certain angle, although it actually looks fine from the player's position.


#4871 53 days ago
Quoted from Fastfred:

What model Lyman tumbler do you use? Also untreated walnut media? I need to get a tumbler and need a recommendation
Thank you,

FYI There is a great tumbler thread with lots of recommendations in it.

1 week later
#4908 46 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I beat FOTR for the first time a few days ago and it was like I won the super bowl. I had never come close before.
Who makes that grille kit? It looks amazing.

Doug @


#4949 40 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

For any interested, I just got an email from Mezel Mods, that the 2Niro Fire Rings for the original LOTR are back in stock!

I'm interested in getting this as well as the mount doom mod but $100 seems a little excessive to me. What all is involved in the mod that brings the cost that high?

#4966 38 days ago
Quoted from jim5six:

New to the club. I have wanted one of these for a VERY long time. I am so happy to of finally found one within my grasp! I look forward to reading this thread from the beginning. I know my game has many, many mods... I do not know what is original and what is a mod but I look forward to learning whats what. The one issue I have is the trim was painted so I need to get all the trim powder coated. Questions: Is the gold a brass powder coating or a metal coating? Is gold an LE finish and if it were not an LE it would be black? I have a "pro" or non-LE, whatever your calling that, but i have the LE rom in it. I believe that is so I can add a shaker motor to it and the code supports it. Is that correct?
I'll get some better images with the glass off when I get a chance.
Jim[quoted image][quoted image]

Yikes. Yea I'd either buy the new set of stock black trim or for almost the same price have it powder coated something snazzy like Grecian gold vein. I have had a few games brass coated and pricing wise is no joke plus imho, doesn't look exactly in place on the LOTR.


#4983 36 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

At the risk of sounding like a broken record here, this is a game where many prefer the stock incandescents, me among them. Buy a set of Pinstadiums, connect them to the GI only, ignore the flasher connection, adjust them to a warm white, and BOOM. You have to see it to believe how awesome the game looks. IMO, Pinstadiums are the single best mod you can do to about any game. If you want to build them yourself then go for it.

Agreed. I can't think of any other pins where I haven't done at least some sort of LED conversion to. LOTR was my first pin and obviously I have had more of an opportunity that any other pin I have ever owned to convert it over. I just think it looks like the perfect mood, ambiance, and atmosphere with incandescents.

#4995 35 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

I have had my LOTR for about 10 years. When I got it, I rebuilt the flippers, but they still seemed to be weak. So I put the special powerful LOTR flipper coils in. It always seemed to strong for me. And now that I have finally cleaned and waxed the playfield, it is worse, of course.
I think I have them set to the lowest settings. Is this correct?
53 Adj 1: 05
54 Adj 2: 40
55 Adj 3: 0
If they are the lowest, other than changing the coils again, is there anything else I can do to weaken the coils?

I don't think white star games have much of a strength setting but I could be wrong. Are you using the PBL upgrade coils or the medium strength coils? I had Terry's coils in and they were way to strong. Swap them out for the medium coils available in the marketplace.

#4998 35 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

It has been nearly a decade since I changed those coils out. Pretty sure they are not PBR.
I stuck my camera through the coin box and took these photos. It is the same part number that Pinball Life now sells.
Where do you get 'medium coils' from?
I am off to York. I hope to see all of you there!
https://www.pinballlife.com/lotr-special-flipper-coil-090-5020-2ot.html[quoted image][quoted image]

Those are the high power coils. The medium are available in the marketplace like I mentioned:


#5036 29 days ago
Quoted from nogoodnames222:

Thanks for all the info, I appreciate it (along with the other guys that responded). I'm wondering if other LED's handle the stock lighting better cause yeah, pretty evident my game would benefit from an OCD. And for speakers I'm leaning towards doing flipper fidelity's 8", with backbox speakers just cause they're not much money and I'm curious. Pinwoofer kit looks legit but not sure I can justify the money. My game has a shaker installed already, pretty slick.
Interesting to hear that feedback on the Pinsound board, hadn't considered the mixed quality and how that'd work out.

There are multiple sound files on Pinsound for LOTR (6 to be precise). I find that there are some with level issues and others without. I personally wouldn't ever want the stock sound package back after playing with Wool's and Hawkhole's mixes. For me the sound package is an ever better upgrade than the color (which I love as well) since you interact with it so much more than looking up at the DMD.

1 week later
#5154 17 days ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

I have the shaker from pinball life. It uses the exact same setup as the LOTR LE. Aka game code based. I don't see much point of using anything else in a game it was literally designed for and works perfectly. My .02

I obviously have something wrong with mine as I can't feel the shaker over the (external) subwoofer. If I turn it off and try really hard I can tell it is on but only barely. I might look into the pinsound set up since I already have the pinsound board in there. I was actually quite disappointed since I was used to the level of shake in my other pins ie: electrocuting sparky in Met, destroying a castle on MMR, storage facility multiball in GB, asteroid video mode in SW, etc. My LOTR shakes nothing like any of those.

#5156 17 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I saw the link to his ebay post in another thread. I'll reinstall the original coils for now, and look into getting these some time down the road since it appears that he's away per his ebay posting.

Welcome to the club!

I would recommend going through this thread from the beginning, there is a lot of useful information in it including (for example) a conversation about coils that was just had again very recently with links and everything. Would have saved you some time and money buying coils that you couldn't use.

#5165 17 days ago

I second these they look amazing! Wish they were the same material as the rest of the blades out there though. Would make me less anxious lifting the pf.

#5179 15 days ago
Quoted from MSLONEKER:

So i replaced the eproms and tunred it on. The lights all light. I have no display and the flasher lights just blink off and on. What do u all suggest. I have a color dmd. All the chips are orientated correctly and all their legs are seated.

What all exactly did you replace? Definitely didn't put them in upside own and realize it and switch it over? You can definitely smoke them quickly by flipping the power on with them the wrong direction (don't ask me how I know that, it was dark and I wasn't paying close enough attention).

#5184 15 days ago

I assume that you are using the notch for orientation? Have you tried to put the originals back in to see if it will boot up?

#5188 15 days ago
Quoted from MSLONEKER:

Holy cow. Im stupid. Got the chips switched. Its working now

Crisis averted

#5216 9 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I had the pinball life coils in but swapped the stock ones back in since it was way too strong. The stock coils seemed to be ok after a 20+ min game I played yesterday. I played for about an hour overall but didn't notice any significant flipper issues.

It's covered quite a few times in the thread which is a very good read if you have the time to read through it from the beginning. I try and do that for all my newly purchased pins to get caught up and learn from all the trial and error before me without having to repeat it myself. Several times it has saved my pins from damage and expense.

If you search in the marketplace you'll see them. They are the "medium" LOTR strength coils.

#5218 9 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

gotcha. I've seen them, and had them in my cart, but decided to wait to see how the stock coils play. I guess it doesn't make any sense to me as I'm sure Stern used these coils in other games at the time, but you don't see anything for the other games. I didn't do any cross-referencing to check, but just seems odd that this game is the only game known for fading coils. I don't necessarily want stronger coils, just coils that play consistently.
Fans seem to be the best compromise and seem relatively cheap and easy to connect in relation to the new higher strength coils.

There are no other pins from the generation with these coils that have consistent lengthy games. They overheat because of the long nature of each play through. And that it's fun as hell and you never turn it off doesn't seem to help things either. Save yourself some time and trouble, buy the coils for $20 and cease to worry about it ever again. I messed with fans but in the end it was still some janky contraption that would move and slide out of position regularly. Plus you have to wire them up and fiddle with that. I personally think replacing a coil is very easy compared to wiring an aftermarket fan set up. The ring shot is much more reliable with the med coils which is appreciated in DTR.

#5234 8 days ago

I just hardwired the LED in my figure on my DIY version to the POTD BB lighting directly behind it.

#5243 5 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I used Marco's 5 ball pack after having bad luck with ball Baron's balls magnetizing. After about 6 months they are starting to get a little sticky too. What have people been having good luck with?

Buy in bulk from Terry at PBL and change them every 6 months. Those are the only balls I ever buy and I've never once had an issue with them.

#5262 3 days ago
Quoted from RGAires:

I have Novus 2 in the house, for sure i can try that...

It just looks like it needs a good shop out. Many write ups on how to do that out there. Every time I obtain a non NIB pin, I always do a complete top side tear down and clean and service all the mechs underneath.

#5264 3 days ago
Quoted from RGAires:

Shop out is not new for me, just a bit curious if is possible to deal with this kind of issue... Thanks man

I've never seen a solid shop out job done correctly not do amazing transformations with used PF's. At least that will tell you if that ring insert is cracked (looks that way) and the dirt has settled in the seam or not. Looks like the shoot again is cracked as well. Depending on how much it still bugs your friend afterwards I guess a PF swap is always an option. Since LOTR is staying in my collection for ever, I have an extra HEP perfected & cleared PF for just such an occasion.

#5276 22 hours ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

Been some time since I visited this forum.
My scoring display started to freeze from time to time. It's the factory DMD. The game would play, but the display would stay frozen, or just be blank. Turning the game off then back on, cleared the issue. But it started becoming more frequent.
I jiggled the two wire plug on the DMD board at the lower left as you look at the game, and got it to unfreeze one time, but then decided since I had it off that I would replace the two capacitors on the DMD board. That was ten days ago, and no freezes since.
I had been leaning toward replacing the caps on all of the boards anyway, since the game is 15 years old. I'm putting that on the to do list for this winter.

Color DMD is great on LOTR. That would be my solution

#5289 12 hours ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I use carbon core balls and have never had a problem with magnetization.

Agreed. I'm not sure who sells these balls that get magnetized but in the last 15 years purchasing pinballs from Terry at PBL, I've never had balls get magnetized.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 219.99

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jarbyjibbo.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside