Hey, new to the "club" just got my LotR up and running. I was wondering if anyone else thought it was too loud? I have my volume on "1" and when you get a few modes going you can hear it through the whole house.

Awesome thanks. I scanned through the features but didn't see anything.

I think this is a common problem on Sterns of that era. I had the same issue in my TSPP and I resolved it by rebuilding them. I think it has to do with the coil stop being worn. Search the threads for "Flipper Buzz" and there is a bunch of stuff.

I have been thinking about getting a Pinsound upgrade on one of my machines to try it out. I wasn't sure it would be worth it for me. I am not really an audiophile who needs top notch sound quality. However heard good things so I decided to go with my LotR because it is probably my most played game, plus some of the callouts get old and I was thinking about removing them ("500 more...250 more".

So I got the board and new 2.1 speakers and installed them yesterday and wow, it really makes a difference. I downloaded a user made sound package (LOTR_Sjoend) and it makes the whole experience so much more immersive. It was pretty straight forward to install. Took me a little while to understand how to install new sounds but there is really good instructions on line.

If anyone is considering one I would highly recommend.

I tried the Wool one and the sound balance was off (music too quiet). The one I have is an updated Wool one for the new card (I think?). Anyway it sounds great.

It is funny but one of the biggest benefits is that the Path of the Dead has multiple call-outs now and it makes it refreshing to go up there. I was getting pretty sick of hearing the same sounds over and over again.

I will try out Hawkhole.

I just replaced mine and it was kind of tricky. I can't remember exactly what worked but you have to slide one side in farther than it would operate until it is close and then force it the final millimeter or so. Keep playing with it.

I had the same initial thought as the ramp is one solid piece.

I would go to the switch level menu and check all the switches and note what is triggering multiple switches. Based on those results you can then follow this guide:

https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/

Give me a little while but I can take off my glass and see if I can take a picture of the install.

Before I do that, are you sure you have the right one? This is what I ordered.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7088-01

Actually harder to get off than on but here is what I did.

Insert your left side so it is sitting on top of the limit switch and the right side is positioned higher on the ramp. Like this:

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Then drag the right end down the ramp surface until you get to the hole and it pops in. I was also pulling the side of the ramp away from the spinner but it doesn't deflect much so this might not help at all. There will be some resistance but mine survived.

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Another view:

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That sounds right to me. I have also had the diode solder come loose so wiggle them and make sure they are attached well.

Is it just me or does the Balrog look like Spike from Gremlins?

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I just destroyed the ring in 39:51 and that destroyed my previous. Curious what other people's best were?

I had the exact same issue and it was simply that the rear switch (behind the back plane) was flaky. The bent metal trigger on mine was bent and rebent a bunch I couldn't get it set right. I ended up buying a new switch and trigger and got it working. I think on mine the microswitch had worn and had a little play in the switch which required more throw than the ball could give. The new switch was tighter and the wire was pre-set. It is a pretty easy repair if I remember correctly and not terribly expensive.

It sucks to miss the ring because a switch doesn't fire. I think this is the only mod in the game that relies solely on this switch. If your opto wasn't working you would see it effect a bunch of other things.

It is easy to test in the switch menu. Just roll a ball through over and over and make sure it always triggers the back switch. Mine was hit or miss. If I set it too far down it missed and if I bent it up the ball would get stuck.

The switch is part number: 180-5057-00

It is $4.49 from Marco:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=180-5057-00

I think there is a little soldering but it just took a minute.

No you don't need to remove the ramp. You just need to pull the playfield out far enough to reach behind the back board. There are two small screws holding the switch on and you can remove them and the switch comes out. The wires are long enough that you can pull it up and then desolder and connect the new switch.

Also, I wouldn't change a fuse with a higher rating. If it blows something is likely wrong. Changing it to a higher rating is just going to cause something to overheat. You probably have a intermittent short or something like that.

Oh, I didn't know that. If Stern says so then they know more than I do.

Just my own personal experience but I have a routed game and have not had any major or particularly difficult issues. Lots of tweaking because the ball really flies around (that is half the fun) but I wouldn't be afraid to get one. I have four Williams from around 1990 and two 2003 Sterns (Whitestar) and they don't seem any more difficult to work than the Williams. Different interface but otherwise all the same basic stuff.

Anyone have any advice on adjusting the Gimli VUK? Mine keeps rejecting back to itself. I keep watching it but apart form taking a video in slow-mo I am not sure what has changed.

Thanks, I will check that tomorrow. I was just playing it and thought I would ask before I started tearing into it.

Anyone know exactly what the three coil adjustments do at the end of the standard adjustments? My left flipper could use a little extra and I couldn't find an explanation anywhere in the manual.

Ok, thanks

I can only dream about that, well done.

I own a good amount of machines and if my wife didn't have a vote this would probably be the one I would keep if I could have only one. For me the shots remain really satisfying, each game is different and there are high level goals that keep you coming back. Honestly the biggest thing for me was getting a Pinsound system so I could change up the callouts because they can get old (particularly the path of the dead). I also love my Deadpool so I think Gomez is a good designer for me. I would say that this machine shines in a home environment. It is also popular with people who come over so it really checks all the boxes. The art is meh but it is not a big deal to me. I don't mind the long ball times but it is not a great game when you only have a few minutes to play.

I have been having some issues with flipper fade on long games and decided to install a set of cooling fans. I know folks have done this before and there are kits you can buy but it I am not sure I saw anything with specific instruction. It is really pretty easy and the fans I found from Digikey were pretty good and only $5. They are quiet enough that you can't hear them with the glass on. I just mounted them directly to the solenoid backing plate on each flipper with some malleable fence wire. I ordered connectors from Great Plains and tied into the 12v supply near the right flipper. Took me about an hour and pretty much anyone could do it.

Here are the specifics:

Fan from Digikey:

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Mounting to Flipper:

1025210935_HDR (resized).jpg

Connection on playfield:

1025210935a_HDR (resized).jpg

Connection near right flipper:

1025210935 (resized).jpg

Try checking your batteries in the backbox. The batteries are needed to save high scores. Most people either replace the RAM to a NCRAm or just add a remote battery holder to get the batteries off the board as they can corrode and damage the board.

This one says for WPC but I think it should work fine in LotR:

https://www.pinballlife.com/remote-battery-holder-for-williamsbally-wpc-wpc-95-machines.html

Beat me to it...

Thanks for that clarification.

Not sure if anyone is interested but I just finished my "refresh" of my LotRs. It was in pretty good shape but I cleanup the playfield and did some minor touch-up before clear-coating it. I also got bronze plated ramps, sword, and wireforms from Pinball Plating. The major thing I thought I would highlight is I ended up doing the alternate cabinet decals from Retrorefurbs and thought it came out great. I am normally kind of a purist and like things original but I was never too crazy about the original artwork and really liked these. The armor is just black powder coated. It seemed like any other color was just too much in comparison to the decals.

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I blew the transistor that drives the left flipper. It is listed as: STP20N10L but I can seem to find it anywhere. Does anyone know an acceptable replacement? I tried to pick one out from Digikey based on specification but when I replaced it, it doesn't work.

Original Spec:

Screenshot 2022-07-01 170904 (resized).png

Replacement Spec:

Screenshot 2022-07-01 171019 (resized).png

Perfect, thanks.

I am hoping some smart person can help me with a board issue I am having with my flippers, here is the situation:

- Very recently fully restored my LotR but the flippers where the same (however the playfield was stripped etc so maybe something moved around)
- Got everything back together and play tested 3-4 games with no problems
- Then the left flipper suddenly died
- 3A fuse was blown next to flipper and would blow again if reinstalled
- Removed the driver board and found that the IC Q15 was reading weird (all legs grounded)
- Couldn't find a direct replacement so I did my best and ordered one from Digikey
- Reinstalled it and had the same issue (blown fuse)
- Reinvestigated board and found that the Capacitor C248 was shorted to ground
- Ordered a new capacitor and replaced it
- Same thing happened
- Thought maybe I had ordered the wrong IC so I asked here and got new replacement ICs (IRF540)
- Replaced both IC (right and left) and both capacitors
- Carefully measured both ICs and capacitors and there was no short
- Put it back in the game and both flippers blew their fuse
- When I checked the capacitors both had shorted to ground

So at this point I am sure that when I try to activate the flippers it somehow shorts the capacitor? Maybe I ordered the wrong capacitors?

I am kind of at a lose of what to check next, I have attached the part information if it helps.

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Thanks I will try that. I have checked both resistors and they seem fine.

Do you know the best place to source that chip?

Have you done a switch test of the switches up the ramp and a solenoid test of the ball stop?

I just test playing my LotR after a full restore and reassembly. Everything seems to be working fine but I am getting a lot of rejects out of the back right scoop (Fellowship Start). I didn't have this before but have a vague recollection in reassembly that the parts/pictures where not clear. Does this set up look right? Anyone else have this issue?

Picture below (sorry for the poor quality)

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Weirdly it just kind of fixed itself after a few plays. Not sure why.