(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club


By skywalker

4 years ago



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  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by pipes
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (4 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#342 3 years ago

TO WARRRRRR!!!

Loving my new LOTR, and proud to join the club!! Destroyed the ring for the first time today!

Pin was in good condition with a bunch of mods when I got it, and seemed to play smooth and fast with super bands, but needed a little cleaning. Now cleaned and two coats of wax, on a perfect fast shot, the ball will not stay on the left Legolas ramp, often flying off the habitrail and sometimes hitting the glass in the area above the shire.

Turned the flipper settings all the way down in the standard audits and it still plays fine at the new settings:
#53 ADJ 1 = 20 ->10
#54 ADJ 2 = 50 ->40
#55 ADJ 3 = 3 ->0

Now 46 games after waxing, it still comes off the ramp occasionally. I had read the speed settles down about 10 games after waxing, but not yet here. Is that normal? How often does everyone see the ball fly off the left ramp? Thanks.

#358 3 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

It's normal. It's a design flaw. It happens all the time. You need this, and you need it now..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-habitrail-mod

I already have the plastic there, but that looks better. The ball flies off the ramp before it gets there, and lands in the shire. Launched by the top ascending part of the ramp - I guess.

Quoted from Skypilot:

Loosen the nuts holding the ramp in place. My game came to me with just over 200 plays on it and the ball would fly off Legolis ramp.It was cranked into the PF so tight it interrupted the flow.

Interesting. Will give that a try.

Quoted from Jvspin:

Hmm...mine has never flown off the ramp. You may have the extra strong coils from PinballLife.

Will take a look. In any case, I assume the stronger coils work OK for others.

Thanks for all the replies!

4 weeks later
#381 3 years ago

Both my Aragorn on Horseback and Dark Rider on Horseback plastic figures lean to side about 45 degrees. The horses legs have warped, letting the figures droop, since they are not perfectly balanced.

I saw online where plastic figures could be immersed in hot water, straightened, and then immersed in cold water to stiffen them again. I tried that, and it worked briefly, but after a few hours they drooped over again under their own weight.

I'm thinking of putting a long screw up through the base of each and in to the horses belly to secure it straight up. Anyone got another idea?

#383 3 years ago
Quoted from whisper:

lights are out on the back panel

I/O Power Driver Board fuse F24 shown on page 103 of the service manual for more info.

3 weeks later
#413 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

gets stuck between this post and the wireform

It looks like you have the post and washer mounted on the wrong screw. Check out mine.

IMG_9933_(resized).JPG

IMG_9932_(resized).JPG

#415 3 years ago
Quoted from Archytas:

I will have a look when I get home.

OK, post a pic with the ball stuck. Looking at mine, I can't even see how it is possible.

#420 3 years ago
Quoted from MT45:

Any other must have mods?
Here is what is already on order:
- Jayspinball palantir ball mod
- Shaker motor
- PAL for shaker
- Wood rail protector
- Cliffys (all 3)
- Pinbits protectors
- Habitrail brass wire mod
- Shire image decals
- POTD figures/lighted (I'm mailing my figures to Pinball Refinery)

Thats a lot of mods!

Looks like you listed this already:
http://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_48&products_id=464

I like the bass response of the FF speakers in my LotR.

Others might say the color DMD is a must.

Edit -
Sting shooter rod looks great installed IMHO.
http://cointaker.com/products/lord-of-the-rings-sword-custom-shooter-rod

3 weeks later
#556 3 years ago

If you can't find the key to the back box hooked inside the coin door or rolling around inside the back of the cabinet, you can pick the lock. It's a simple one blade key, which is so easy, that even I can do it. Check which way your other pins open and which way the key blade faces.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tips-for-drilling-out-a-lock

#559 3 years ago
Quoted from BigBlockFever:

ball trough constantly ejects even with no ball ready

Maybe a switch in the trough or shooter lane not working. Check each in the diagnostics - switch test menu.

Quoted from BigBlockFever:

vertical upkicker( to the right of planatir)lost the ability to eject the ball hard enough

Look at the VUK from the under the playfield and check items like -
are the wires soldered to the coil securely?
does the plunger move freely?
no parts are broken or loose?

3 weeks later
#572 3 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Long story short, if you ever take off that LED PCB like I did, treat this insert like it's plutonium.

Ouch, that hurts! Sorry to see that, and thanks for the tip.

If there is a bright side.. hopefully the silk screening will be a little better aligned on the new playfield.

1 week later
#594 3 years ago
Quoted from mortenera:

Thanks for pushing me over the edge

Since your already in trouble, get the "Sting" shooter rod as well! It only takes a couple minutes to install and looks fantastic.

Coolest shooter rod ever made IMHO.

http://www.pinballcustoms.com/shop/lord-of-the-rings-sting/

#608 3 years ago
Quoted from mystman12:

I successfully made the final shot... but wasn't rewarded.

Yup, you have to go through the ring, to hit the micro switch #48 on the ramp inside the back to get credit for destroying the ring. I was never getting credit until I figured out that switch was wearing out and not registering most of the time.

2 weeks later
#657 3 years ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

Anyone know where to get replacement LEDs for the rings-count

I ordered this from Amazon back in the fall to replace my 3 white ring LEDS that had failed, and they are a bit brighter than original but have worked fine ever since:

"microtivity IL051 5mm Clear White LED (Pack of 25)"

2 weeks later
#674 3 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

What modern pin has ball times longer than LOTR? Answer: GOT

With similar outlane posts settings? I have limited experience with GoT and have only had about 20 plays, but I did not notice any long ball times.

2 weeks later
#759 3 years ago
Quoted from rudygulp42:

Just brought home a LOTR fresh off route. Coins were pouring out as I made slap saves.

Need pictures!

4 weeks later
#787 3 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Any tips of brightening up the LOTR play field?

LED GI is always step one.

Mine came with an LED kit installed and a green LED strip shining up from the trough to brighten up the flipper area, and a pink LED strip under the back box, to lighten up the upper play field. The pink should be red, but it does the job.

The spot lights on my slings have red frosted LEDs, something lighter might be better, and it came with some extra purple spots in the coin box, which I think I will use for the mid play field and to light up the death rider. Always interesting to see how various colors look.

#807 3 years ago

Just started and restarted a bunch of games with Witch King mode and zero success. That is a good one to start before a multiball and hope it works out.

#814 3 years ago
Quoted from Knx873:

I joined the club today!! Can I add a shaker?

If you don't have the "LotR LE" aka "gold edition", you have to jump through some hoops.

Details here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition

1 week later
#869 3 years ago
Quoted from statsdoc:

any advice on LED packages

Make sure they are no ghost type. LotR ghosts badly otherwise.

#888 3 years ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

So do others get this ball hang-up?

Never. Maybe an issue with the VUK? Everything looks normal in the photo.

I would start a game with the glass off and just keep dropping balls in the saucer, and watch how they end up there.

1 week later
#926 3 years ago

Can't really tell much from those photos, other than it is in a sketchy basement or garage. Why would they want to keep the autographed translite? Do they have a nicer LotR to move it to? Ask them how much extra for it.

Look it over closely with good lighting and note everything that is not in good condition everywhere on the cab, everywhere on the playfield, in the back box, and inside the cab. Play more than one game to get a feel for any and all operation issues. (gives you a chance to chat with the seller) $4500 is good for a HUO LotR, but things are often not as described.

1 month later
#1004 3 years ago

I noticed at the 1min mark, that Balrog came out for a short 'Bash Balrog' mode. Mine does not do that. I have not messed with the settings very much since I got mine. Will have to see what fun things I can turn on. Any tips?

#1013 3 years ago
Quoted from tu71586:

Finally pulled the relay board. I'm a total noob, but are the solder joints at the bottom of the picture bad? Could that blackish color to those solder joints mean that the relay itself is bad (though as in my video in post #995, the Balrog does move back and forth)? Thanks for any help or suggestions.

They look bad to me. Clearly that part was replaced once. Use a soldering iron to reflow all the joints and find out. (even the lower one on the far left looks odd)

3 weeks later
#1069 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Pinball life's upgraded coils are too strong. I had them and had to take them off. The ball was flying off the left ramp and I was getting worried stuff was going to break.

Same here, however the original coils fade as they heat up with long play. What did you go with??

Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Try pulling your coil sleeve to make sure its not cracked or broken. For some reason on mine i cracked the left flipper sleeve twice.

Also flipper can crack badly and not be visible until you look underneath.

2 months later
#1219 2 years ago

Anyone have a spare shire VUK plastic number "-20" shown in the pic?

Let me know if you have an unused one or used unbroken one your willing to part with. Thanks!

SHIRE PLASTIC (resized).jpg

#1223 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I swapped the normal coil back into the right flipper and left the stronger coil on the left.

Yup, I might end up doing that too. (or probably the medium coil mentioned on the previous page)

#1233 2 years ago
Quoted from mattmarr:

I feel like I will reach Valinor before defeating the Witch King

Start a multiball (Fellowship MB makes sense) immediately after starting witch king mode. (this was posted a few pages back, and helps me kill that flying monster.)

I have not researched much LotR strategy, but since you can always start a MB after starting a ring mode, I always do it in that order. (AKA stacking) Hit Elf rings to light "start mode", then start the mode, and usually end up qualifying and starting a MB while working on a ring mode. Once the MB is started, I concentrate on the MB goal, since you have to complete all 3 MB objectives to reach Valinor, and I often happen to complete the ring modes while working on the MB objectives. (You must complete the MB objectives, not the ring mode objectives to reach Valinor.)

#1239 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

please confirm what belongs on this gate switch

Yes, a post that sticks up about 35mm. (looks like I also have a broken wire keeper there, but the wire is not currently routed that way)

gate (resized).JPG

1 week later
#1254 2 years ago

This pinsider is selling some used LOTR plastics here if anyone needs them:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-plastics-1

1 week later
#1267 2 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Any way....just bought a basket case LOTR and will be started the repair process.

Quoted from chadderack:

Guys, it's official. I'm in love.

Welcome! So it begins.

#1274 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I am having trouble locating a PAL chip to use with a shaker install.

I believe it is needed. PALs are burned like ROMs.

If it came to it, you should be able to burn one yourself or find someone who can.

2 weeks later
#1338 2 years ago
Quoted from Hoser:

what does an LE actually sell for these days?

Yup, 5k+ for a standard with mods sounds right.

Condition is everything. I consider the Pinside prices fair for a good condition, fully working pin. Each flaw and issue subtracts from the value.

Boston Pinball does not show any recent sales of LE on Ebay.

2 months later
#1490 2 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

what the hell is "mango silence"?

What character says it?

#1492 2 years ago
Quoted from TimeBandit:

what the hell is "mango silence"?

That is Gimli blurting out "mind those ladders" during Two Towers Multiball.

#1494 2 years ago

Reminds me of song lyrics I can't figure out and I just sing nonsense.

4 weeks later
#1548 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Orthanc to the path of the dead about 50% of the time ejects so hard that it hits the side of the cabinet.

I think that's normal.

3 weeks later
#1601 2 years ago

There is no lamp indicating what shot is needed to start fellowship multiball, other than the indicators in the middle.

When you collect each one, there is a unique call out that helps me remember who goes with each shot when I play. Usually Boromir is last, meaning more pops are needed.

1 month later
#1666 2 years ago

If you slide the playfield all the way out on the rails, you can get to switches and flasher in the back. (mostly)

2 weeks later
#1688 2 years ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

can someone come up with a DIY Palantir Mod

Yup, I swapped my Palantir bulb for a slow color change bendy LED. It was initially too bright so I put some white paper around the LED to diffuse it, with scotch tape.

The view of the paper grain and tape edge with the LED behind, gives a bit of a veiny eye effect. I need to try drawing on the paper to make it a bit cooler.

#1700 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Has anyone seen this problem? It typically happens during a multi ball. One of the balls gets lodged just above the shooter rod to the left.

That skinny red plastic along the shooter lane that blocks that area is broken on your pin.

Is the auto plunger working OK? Maybe, take the glass off and start a Return of the King Multiball to see what occurs when it starts adding balls.

3 weeks later
#1770 2 years ago
Quoted from Delta9:

right ramp switch

Your just missing the small nut there. (regular nut with nylon insert)

IMG_4396 (resized).JPG

#1775 2 years ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

It appears your lower threaded shaft part is broken off as well.

Good catch! Will keep an eye out for a small screw to use there.

#1802 2 years ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

The sound quality is very poor. When on the lower sound settings, a lot of crackling, static, and just plain old low quality sound.

While the sound quality overall of LotR is not high, mine does not crackle like that.

A previous owner installed Flipper Fidelity speakers on my LotR, but I don't think that affects crackle greatly. It just gives me a lot of bass and probably a little extra range.

It seems like a poor connection would give crackle like that. Check the solder connections at all 3 speakers, and reseat the speaker connector at the board.

2 weeks later
#1837 2 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

Is there anyway to tell what ROM version you have by looking in the settings?

Turn off the fast boot in feature adjust #45

4 weeks later
#1941 2 years ago

I have a red LED flasher there with a bulb condom slid over it to hide it.

I think converting it in to a spot light / flasher aimed at the front of the ring wraith would be 100 times better.

1 week later
#1953 2 years ago

Nice job. 39 seconds is my best time.

#1977 2 years ago
4 weeks later
#2003 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

Yes, 4 balls are in the game.

Everything normal in the switch test?

When you drop the balls in to the trough, does that look normal? Try it a couple times.

Is the switch test OK, when you turn it on first thing also?

(love that shinny armor!)

1 week later
#2041 1 year ago
Quoted from bcrage88:

messing with settings

LOTR has the 'Installs Settings' that globally changes ALL the difficulty settings for you. Just select X.HD for extra hard.

Untitled (resized).png

#2059 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

If it's at the beginning of a game it could also be caused by the switch inside the Balrog. This is a normally closed switch, meaning when the ball strikes the Balrog the switch opens. When you start a game the Balrog swings out and sometimes triggers the switch causing a mode to start.

I replaced my flaky Balrog switch and my intermittent mode start at the first game of the day vanished. I never put the two things together. Kudos!!

1 week later
#2080 1 year ago

Welcome! What specific parts/shots feel clunky? Maybe something can be adjusted.

You can purchase complete plastics sets.

Marco sells the plastic support posts for the flasher by the shooter.

There is a thread on the parts and work needed to install a shaker on a standard LotR -
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition

#2087 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

or $400 board that gives me better sound.

And more:
-Upgrade from mono to 2.1 (stereo+sub) high quality power amplifier
-Full cabinet and back-box tone control (treble, bass, loudness…)
-Change from original sound package to HQ reorchestrated sounds on the fly during a game
-Headphone / line-out connector
-Plays any sound from the USB flash drive

So many mods, so little time!

#2089 1 year ago
#2101 1 year ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Thank you! It looks like they're out of stock and I haven't been able to find another good source for a nice 12v /44 bulb. Is there anybody else you'd recommend.

I used this. It is the kit from the Stern bulletin with second gen Balrog LED bulb and socket, and was cheaper than the bulb they used to stock. Now I have a spare socket.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5022-00

#2112 1 year ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

New clear rips of scenes from the movies without the distortion on the originals would absolutly knock the mix out of the park.

Unfortunately, dialog taken from your copy of the movie will have loud unwanted backing music and sound effects mixed in, and would sound clunky. I imagine the studio gave Stern the isolated dialog track to use for the callouts, and the custom callouts recorded for the pin would also be needed.

#2118 1 year ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

Is there a setting that can override it?

Should work. Ball must be in the shooter lane, and it must be ball 2. Try it one more time.

Maybe the ball save setting was on (called "Freeze Time"), and it was still on ball 1?

Maybe your shooter lane switch is not working??

#2128 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I'm still astounded at how similar it is to Monster Bash

Both fan layouts put plenty of differences. LorR always impresses me with the layout of the inner/outer orbit shots crossing and interacting with the Barad-dur saucer, the lanes, the Orthanc diverter post, the moving Orthanc guide, and the Orthanc skill shot. (and a jump flying over it!)

#2142 1 year ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

Yes it does do that. I look at it sort of like the ball hitting the glass in WH2O, part of the design.

I think he means the right ramp. That is where the sword is.

Mine does not hit the side of the cab when I shoot it up the right ramp from the left flipper, it hits the large switch there and heads down the ramp fairly quietly. If I backhand that shot, I then get a satisfying clunk. It might be that the ramp is tapered, putting spin on one side or the other side of the ball.

#2152 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

Pretty sure that setting is only to adjust the upkickers.

OK, now I'm curious!

#2159 1 year ago
Quoted from TRAMD:

I think my ring magnet went bad. Is this a common thing with a common fix? If so, what is it? Of course it happened as I was about to destroy the ring!

It's common that when two balls get stuck there, the magnet fuse can blow.

#2170 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I have balls that are getting stuck on the switches on the right (sword) ramp.

The balls may be magnetized and sticking together.

#2195 1 year ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

What! Wtf this seems like a fairly bad design flaw

I use the 5 for $5 balls from marco, and have never magnetized one yet.

2 weeks later
#2265 1 year ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Thanks, I don't know what a Rom chip is, but I'll figure that out too.

Software version.

Standard adjustments 45 - set quick boot 'off', and you can see the software version displayed on the DMD when you start up the pin.

#2267 1 year ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Set to 1, switches all work, fuse is good, set to 1 ball for DTR, but it still keeps going ring hit after ring hit after I close the 4 shots needed to hit the last shot.

After the 4 shots, it should be 2 shots to the ring to destroy it.

You mentioned you changed the magnet fuse. Is the magnet working? When you start the game, the mode start light is lit, so when you the ring, the magnet should grab it while the mode start animation plays.

2 weeks later
#2314 1 year ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

I'm noticing is that with a few hits of the flipper button, ball in the shooter lane, the ring mode starts.

I think that is a symptom of the Balrog switch failing/noisy. Others have reported that, and replacing the Balrog switch fixed that issue for me.

Before fixing it, I was not registering some Balrog hits, and when testing the switch I could see it was blipping on/off/on/off... when I tested it in switch mode.

1 week later
#2347 1 year ago

Used 2 ball for a while but often the magnet would grab both and I got frustrated with it, so went back to 1 ball DTR.

#2358 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Is it normal for the ring to make a loud buzzing noise when it grabs the ball and holds it?

Mine doesn't. Coils normally buzz when their not super tight. Maybe the bracket is loose or you need to add a shim. (not sure how that coil is mounted)

#2362 1 year ago

Wow, I had seen issues with color registration, where the small yellow letters with orange trim where obviously misaligned like where it says "light all rings for ring frenzy" at the bottom, but red nosed Gandalf sticking out his tongue is too much.

#2373 1 year ago

Here are a couple pics of mine FYI. PF looks normal, and appears to be stamped 07 04 (Aug/2004 I assume). It's a LotR standard and has Gandalf w/horse figure.

IMG_5092 (resized).JPG

No green hue -
IMG_5096 (resized).JPG

"LIGHT ALL RINGS" has good yellow/orange registration.
IMG_5093 (resized).JPG

#2375 1 year ago

Sounds like yours is standard. The LE version from 2009 does not have any figures.

It was posted above - 'In 2005 mid production they ran out of Gandoff figures and he changed to Gandoff the grey with no horse.'

#2413 1 year ago
Quoted from Morhaus:

Any guidance for me to know if it's the coil? Fuse? The 3 switches just prior to the "ball locker" work.
Help!!

OK, the coil tried. Coils are a little weird in test mode. Sounds like it may be OK.

How about the switches in test mode?

2 weeks later
#2477 1 year ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Is there any downside in using the NVRAM instead of the original battery design?

The main downside to NVRAM is the clock would not keep correct time/date. That would not be cool in a pin with midnight madness or a physical clock like TZ.

In LotR, the time/date is used for configuring the starting and ending of TOPS tournaments, so that would be one possible issue, but not for most of us.

1 week later
#2488 1 year ago
Quoted from talking_goat:

I have been reading up and if I'm not mistaken these would be good to order in order to avoid magnetization

Yes, any inexpensive ball will be the type that is OK with magnets.

2 weeks later
#2573 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I’m going to swap in this playfield as soon as I find the time

The colors look good to me. If your missing any disassembly photos or need anything checked here, don't hesitate to ask.

#2589 1 year ago
Quoted from dmieczko:

Do the lights near the shooter lane flicker instead of fading?

The 8 lamps along the shooter lane work with the insert lamps and not the GI, so the LED OCD would smooth them.

#2610 1 year ago
Quoted from talking_goat:

I tried using the Carbon Steel chrome-plated ones from Ball Baron, they magnetized after three games. Is this impossible to fix???

Plenty of threads about that. These inexpensive carbon steel balls work fine in my LotR, TZ, and Met pro:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5

#2642 1 year ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I've played TNA on co-op mode a few times now (4-player), and it gave me a great idea. The next time I have a party, I'll put LOTR on 12 ball play (4x3), and have people play a "4-player co-op" game on LOTR to see how far they can get. If there are a few good players, they should reach TABA easily, and they have at least a shot at Valinor. This seems way more fun than slogging it out to Valinor myself.

Co-op on LotR would be killer!

Turn on all the extra ball awards:
special audit 3: replay award = EB
special audit 6: special award = EB
special audit 9: EB limit = unlimited

4 weeks later
#2711 1 year ago
Quoted from canea:

I know the current trend is to get rid of the apron girls, but what if...

Love those. send file plz!

2 weeks later
#2803 1 year ago
Quoted from ruzeo:

HUO doesn't mean you are getting the best machine

Yup, a worn out, dirty, non functioning, hacked, faded, incomplete, abused pin could still be called HUO by defenition.

#2820 1 year ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Both slings are getting stuck.

You can see the paint has rubbed off the right plastic. The slings are hitting there. Put a washer or two under the plastic so the sling is not hitting it. That is probably why it is sticking.

#2825 1 year ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

I have convolux under my plastics so that's probably from the previous owner. I did however just change the nuts out to the chroma gold ones. I probably put them on a little too tight. I'll check that out today.

Yup, it is a tight fit under there. One of my old plastics had the paint scratched off too. Adding some thin washers works, so nothing touches.

#2871 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Does this look normal? The sling rubber on my LOTR sticks out much more than my other games

Looks the same as my lotr. Half the pins in my lineup are like your lotr and half are like your AFM. Just the way the sling plastics were done on different pins it seems.

#2925 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

My right flipper keeps getting stuck in the up position.
With most games, I'd normally just go in and check the coil sleeve or flipper for binding. But I know LOTR has issues with overheating.
Does this sound like it's the coil? Seems to only happen on the right.

Have you checked it in the switch test mode? See if it ever stays 'on' there.

#2930 1 year ago

Wow, that is a big Oak tree. Hope you can get things back together quickly.

1 week later
#2977 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

My Balrog does not seem to be registering hits unless you really smack it hard with a straight on shot.

The switch or the wires running to it are probably failing. I have not opened it in a while. Start with it in the open position away from the ramp. Take of the 2 screws that hold on the small back cover. The manual has a good exploded view at the bottom of page 87.

Quoted from Damien:

Also, when does the diverter at the top of the pf get activated? Should it be up during War of the Ents. I make the right orbit shot during this mode, and it just sent the ball around the full orbit exiting out of the left side. Should it be stopped by the diverter to be sent into the Path of the Dead?

Yes, that diverter post is up during War of the Ents, but the ball may be going past it because the shot is not strong enough to roll along the top of the orbit or maybe ball guide on the right is aimed under the post. Do left orbit shots hit the diverter and roll in to the tower? You can stand on the right of the pin and see when the diverter post is up. It is normal that a few balls get past it.

#2995 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

What are minis?

Inexpensive LEDs.

https://cointaker.com/t/mini

#3006 1 year ago
Quoted from Junglist:

so I assume he's not glued in then?

All 3 of the horse riding figures are molded with a base that is held down with 2 small tie wraps. You can see Gandalfs base when you look from the right side.

#3021 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Is that how the game is supposed to play on factory settings?

Yup. Standard Adjustment 38 if you want to turn it on.

Here are some other I used and wrote down in my notes to find quickly later if needed:

SA 4 replay levels = (tiers of replays or EBs)
SA 6 Sepecial Award =
SA 9 EB Limit =
SA 15 Tilt Warnings = 3
SA 29 High Score = 10 letters
SA 30 Free Play = Yes
SA 42 Coindoor Ball save = Yes
SA 49 Tech Alert = coin door and startup
SA 3 replay award = EB ==> replay
FA 33 Cave Troll = ON
FA 34 = consolation balrog = none
FA 36 = Extend attract = Yes

#3023 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So "cave troll" is just that sequence before Balrog comes out?

Yes.

Quoted from Damien:

And what is "attract mode"? It's not in the manual.

Attract mode is what the pin does when your not playing. (not sure what specifically this setting does)

Quoted from Damien:

And last thing, the Palantir target keeps getting bumped to the left. I manually center it, but after a couple of games, it goes back. Any fix for this?

You can tighten up the screws of the leaf switch stack. They also make splints to keep them upright:
https://mezelmods.com/products/stern-target-splints?variant=923513721

1 week later
#3048 1 year ago
Quoted from scottslash:

Now that we're on the subject of TABA... anyone else notice... when screen says "Shoot a lit shot" the ring is lit?

Have not noticed.

#3059 1 year ago

Have all my DMD pins at 6.5 degrees on the playfield.

#3064 1 year ago

I use my phone. I rotate the phone 180deg and confirm the number is the same both ways, which verifies the phone is properly zeroed. I take the reading at the center of the playfield. Same when checking the left/right is level.

#3072 1 year ago
Quoted from Cserold:

balls won’t release from the “sword Lock”. The plastic plunger fires up and down rapidly but balls won’t release.

Are the balls magnetized and sticking together? Is the playfield angle 6.5deg? Are the wires secure on the plunger coil?

2 weeks later
#3103 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

It’s almost like the switches weren’t ready yet.

That should be easy to test with the glass off.

In the past I had some intermittent issues with lane 2 not always registering, but I have not seen that in a long time. I don't recall if I did anything to make it go away.

#3104 1 year ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

I remember an adjustment that was added, something like "Ignore path of the dead on kick". It is to prevent the path switches from registering when the upkicker fires the ball. Maybe try changing that setting and see what effect it has?

Oops I missed your post. Just tested with the glass off.... and yes, when the VUK fires the lanes are disabled for just a split second. Great memory LOTR_breath!

Funny thing is, the rest of the time those switches always register, even without the VUK firing first. You can keep pressing them and it just keeps saying "100 more, 100 more, 100 more" until you reach 5000 souls.

1 week later
#3143 1 year ago

I can't comment on before/after since mine came with the FF kit w/ 8" woofer installed, but I can say that it does sound good.

I enjoy being able to crank up the sound and bring out the subsonic tones that have me looking over my shoulder when I'm playing alone on those late nights. The included tone control with the FF kits is a nice feature as well.

1 month later
#3203 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Can anyone tell me if this post to the right of the ramp is supposed to have a rubber sleeve on it?

Yes, mine has one.

#3206 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Cool, thanks!
Can anyone help with this. Was trying to take Balrog apart, and the top of the bulb snapped off. When I tried to remove the base, it's attached by a thin wire.
What should I do?

WOW, the bottom of the bulb base pulled out and is stuck to the spring inside the bulb holder. Is that what it looks like to you?

See if that will pull out without wrecking the bulb holder, and get a new balrog LED flasher.

#3226 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

It always puzzled me why my NIB machine had an Arwen plastic, and the LOTR full plastic set purchased at the same time had a different plastic.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/just-ordered-lotr-plastic-setwhy-no-arwen-pic

#3236 1 year ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Someone put a really good DTR time on my game

Time to 'ahem' replace the batteries. I had a heavy hitter visit and put a big GC score on my FT. Took me over a year to get the GC back.

I gave up on 2 ball DTR a long time ago. Turn that off and enjoy your pin.

1 week later
#3249 1 year ago
Quoted from Raegor:

Merry and Pippin on left sling
Frodo, Sam, and Smeagol on right sling
2 Orcs on the right side, one red one black. Aragorn on horseback above them.
Saruman upper left
Gandalf the white on horseback in middle
Orc with head in the back next to Barad-Dur
Ringwraith on horse, top of the sword

Yup, that's what I have.

#3272 1 year ago
Quoted from winteriscoming:

I'm also not sure what's a mod and what's stock.

All of those items listed are mods. LotR-LE(2009) came stock with a shaker, but those have gold armor and a special translite with gold outlines, so you don't have an LE.

1 week later
#3309 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just went to look at a machine that someone is selling. The coin door has 3 slots and the power supply says Canada. They did not have coin mech on the door.
Does this sound normal? Was Stern selling games like this or has it been modified?

Bally/Williams export games had 3 coin slots and 2 coin slots for domestic designated sales. Stern probably did the same.

I have read that operators sometimes kept the coin mechs when selling a game, so the buyer would keep it at home and not put it on location where it would be competition for the seller.

#3317 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

do you get this screen?

Yup, Standard adjustment 45: fast boot => Yes

I make a note of settings I touch, so I can recover after a battery swap. I have extra balls off, which is better for groups and tourney practice. Here is my list:

SA 4 replay levels = 4 (tiers of replays or EBs) ->1
SA 6 Special Award = EB
SA 9 EB Limit = Unlimited -> 0
SA 15 Tilt Warnings = 3
SA 29 High Score = 10 letters
SA 30 Free Play = Yes
SA 38 Ball save
SA 42 Coindoor Ball save = Yes
SA 49 Tech Alert = coin door and startup
SA 3 replay award = EB ==> replay
FA 33 Cave Troll = ON
FA 34 = consolation balrog = none
FA 36 = Extend attract = Yes

#3323 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

- the playfield art is clearer on the 2006

This has been noted previously in the thread. Some playfields have better color registration than others. If you look at the text above the flippers "light all rings for ring frenzy" you may notice the orange/yellow/black don't line up perfectly on some playfields, etc. Also some playfields have a green hue that is noticeable on the faces in the center of the playfield, and some don't. Variances in manufacturing occur over a production run.

Not sure about the slightly raised inserts. Maybe they are slowly lifting up, which is not good.

#3339 1 year ago

I am not aware of figures falling apart. Here are several photos showing attachment if you scroll through the posts:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/58#post-4399907

#3346 1 year ago
Quoted from rask4p:

I've got a question about the right flasher by the right flipper, can someone explain or show me a picture of how that plastic is mounted? I've got a bolt floating on nothing in the top left corner and two plastic offsets on the right and left bottom, so there's not actually anything securely attached to anything.

There is screw with spacer (shown) attached to the plastic underneath, and two plastic standoffs holding the right flasher. I always thought that looked odd and not level, but I have seen the same configuration on other LotR.

IMG_6049 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#3363 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Often it comes out so quickly that the first set of switches don't even register the ball passing over.

It has been mentioned that there is a delay and the POTD switches are not immediately active when the VUK shoots the ball up, so occasionally not registering in the top row is not unusual. (I guess that is done, so the VUK does not shake that upper playfield and cause a switch to register without a hit.)

It is also not unusual that the ball will sometimes hit the wall and bounce back down to the VUK again. There is a mod sold which is a flat plastic that lays in the upper right corner of the upper playfield to keep the ball from rolling back down the VUK.

Not sure why your VUK is kicking too hard. Did you check the coil and stopper and confirm everything is secure and looks OK? Does it have the same coil as your other LOTR?

1 week later
#3370 12 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

Anyone have this issue where the ball get stuck on on the edge of the wireworm as it ejects from the VUK?
Also, the nuts on the left side of the wireworm is missing, is this intentional?
And the weird washer on top of the post, is that right?

Mine rarely gets stuck there. There should be a nut holding the wireform.

Your washer is much larger than mine. It only needs to keep balls from trapping between the Palantir and Balrog. The smaller washer would probably let the ball fall out of there.

#3376 12 months ago

Photo. Now I see, your post is supposed to hold the ramp down. Move that post with the washer!!

IMG_6138 (resized).JPG

#3382 11 months ago

dmieczko and my photo are just about identical.

My top washer is bit larger than the lower while his are reversed. Probably either will correct your trap issue.

3 weeks later
#3414 11 months ago
Quoted from Charliemouse:

I have one elf ring led out (L2).

I had 1 out and 1 failing when I got my LOTR. I replaced them with Mircrotivity IL051, which worked. They are slightly brighter, so I replaced all 3. They have been working fine for several years.

amazon.com link »

2 weeks later
#3441 10 months ago
Quoted from QuickSilverShelb:

When you bash that ball through the ring it's a whole new level of effect. It really makes DTR special. It's awesome!

... and then when two balls get stuck, put your hands over the kids ears before the stream of obscenities begins.

1 month later
#3544 9 months ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

While we are on the topic, does anyone have an external sub along with pinsound? The pinsound guys told me to use the headphone jack on the pinsound original, but I barely hear my sub like that.
Can someone look at my setup and let me know if that's how you do it too?

I don't use a sub, but anyway, it appears your connected to the output, not the input! (does Polk have a manual online for recommended connections?)

You need your headphone signal from your pin to go the round RCA audio connecter labeled "LINE IN (R)", and another pin can go to Line in L.

Line levels are comparable to a low/mid headphone volume level. If your headphone volume was too high, it would clip and sound distorted out of the sub at middle volume.

#3557 9 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

There are moments, (even early in a game) where the flippers just feel weak and maybe a tiny bit delayed.

You could try the switch test diagnostic function and see if the flippers buttons are OK.

#3561 9 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

Everything works 100% and the only issue I have is a very rare restart which I think is from adding the Anypin DMD+ so I'll just reseat it.

Congrats, it sounds like you are going all in.

I would resolve the reset issues before starting modding which will just add to the difficulty of ruling things out. Nothing worse than a LotR that crashes when I'm enjoying a 1hr game.

If you jiggle cables or jiggle the playfield does it reset?

one thread to read..

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-resets

3 weeks later
#3643 8 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

During some multiballs it goes dead or won’t hold or is very weak. I think I may have noted a possible reason in the flipper switch.

Do they both behave the same in the switch test? That is an easy place to start.

#3649 8 months ago

My method for LotR and other clearcoated playfields: clean up with novous 1 or if necessary novous 2 using a small amount on a cotton t-shirt scrap. Clean all the residue off with a little novous 1 and get the plastics, plastic ramps and playfield clean and slick. I clean the grime off metal ramps with simple green. I then wax the playfield with carnuba turtle wax. (rub it on, let it sit an hour and buff it off with cotton scraps)

I rarely need novous 3 unless I'm cleaning off 25yrs of uncleaned grime and very dull clearcoat. I clean that with a little simple green and then novous 3 polish until it reflects my overhead light about as clearly as another area where the ball does not go. I normally do that by hand with a lot of elbow grease. Maybe get the dremel out to polish some dull mylar.

If you err on the side of caution, at least you will do no harm.

#3667 8 months ago
Quoted from Maken:

I thought with the transistors they either work or they don't? They shouldn't show the type of symptoms that he is experiencing.
That's what I've been told by long time hobbyists, anyhow.

Possibly - A dirty/bad flipper switch will make a blip-blip poor connection when pressed, which looks like multiple presses and the circuit goes from high flip power to low hold power too soon. (a phenomenon seen on WPC pins with the flipper button optos that are dirty or failing)

#3688 8 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

I feel like the balrog should light up - am I imagining that?

Welcome to the club!!

Yes, there was a service bulletin regarding the early type LED flasher used in the Balrog. Marco has the kit.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5022-00

#3730 8 months ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

My game is on tile floor with plastic coasters under the feet so it is very hard to move/slide the front end sideways to avoid such drains if they are coming.

Loosen the front leg bolts a bit, so the cabinet has bit of sway, maybe about 1/8 inch or a little more. Leg bolts should not be too tight.

If you nudge too much, the tilt bob will let you know anyways.

#3734 8 months ago
Quoted from DCFAN:

I can nudge no problem, I just don't slide the legs across the floor like some do to avoid the STDM that can't be stopped any other way.
Everything I have ever read or have been told is you want the leg bolts very tight. Wobble in the legs from looseness of the bolts is probably not good for the cabinet.

OK, I see what you mean. I have rubber cups under my leg levelers to minimize sliding as well. ("Any player who moves a game to the point it slides off of a rubber foot beneath the game’s leg will be given a score of zero for the game." - IFPA rules)

As far a leg bolt tightness - I go by this old thread where the general consensus is go with snug, and not too tight.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-tight-are-leg-bolts

1 week later
#3781 8 months ago
Quoted from the4Orr:

When the "post" releases the balls it comes up too soon, bumps the back of the ball sending it off the ramp

Welcome!

Make sure your balls aren't magnetized, causing them to stick together a little and not roll quickly. Others have had the same issue.

The cheap carbon steel ones are normally resistant to getting magnetized, while the expensive shinny ones will magnetize in a few plays.

#3844 8 months ago
Quoted from hollywood:

Do you happen to have a pic for comparison?
You know....those hobbits had a propensity for weed....maybe yours is accurate!

Some have also reported a green tint to the faces on their their playfield, like this post:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/55#post-4361525

#3877 7 months ago
Quoted from ktownhero:

For the love of god, I still do not understand why so many people put purple lighting in a LOTR?

My LotR came with a pink/purple 12v LED strip at the back of the playfield and a green 12v LED strip under the apron. It must have been a popular mod that was sold years ago. I see some LED kits include LED strips for 'front and back'. Mine did come with a full no-ghost LED kit installed also.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1024-pinballbulbs/01547-lord-of-the-rings-pinball-ultimate-led-lighting-kit

#3899 7 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

Have a question about Witch King. How many shots are needed? I swear I hit at least 12-14!

You must immediately combo the shot for it to count! Left ramp and then right ramp, or right orbit and then right ramp. It takes 4 combos and its a pain, but it can be easier if you stack it with a multiball.

#3904 7 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I’m exploring some passive cooling options for my flipper coils. Anyone try anything like this?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cooling-flipper-coils-by-aluminium-heat-sinks-or-pc-fans

#3927 7 months ago

Flipper buzz was discussed in the Metallica tread a while back -

Tightening the coil stop against the coil minimizes the buzz. You could also use a tie wrap going all the way around the coil, coil stop and bracket better pull the coil stop in and minimize it.

1 week later
#4000 7 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

So my left flipper is strong when I press the flipper button lightly, and super weak when I press the button hard or slap it. I figured it was an EOS switch issue, but I've adjusted that a lot and nothing seems to help. Any ideas?

Start by cleaning and checking the flipper button leaf switch.

2 weeks later
#4104 6 months ago
Quoted from Fastfred:

when I win a free ball after draining the other ball/s the games stops and will not produce the free ball to come out of the trough.

Welcome to the club!!

If you turn off extra balls, everything else is OK?

Standard Audit #9 EB Limit ---> 0

1 week later
#4125 6 months ago
Quoted from Fastfred:

Thank you for reading this and if any help with info and pictures would be great.

Looks like some special coin mechs there. Here is a photo of my coin door which appears to be original.

lotr1 (resized).jpg

That connector is unused on my LotR, and just has a mod connected.

lotr2 (resized).jpg

One more:

lot3 (resized).jpg

#4132 6 months ago
Quoted from Fastfred:

I followed the black and white wire and it goes straight to the front right box hooked up inside the metal voltage area. Can you tell me where the correct way these wires are where they suppose to belong to hook up.

Took a quick pic inside the cab. I assume the florescent lamp wires are supposed to come from an appropriate tap on the transformer.

lottr (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#4177 6 months ago
Quoted from lb1:

I see the left ramp right side wire either inside (as in the picture) or outside the stainless ball guide. Mine's inside and I was thinking about moving it outside.

Mine is outside, and I get a lot of balls flying off the ramp and landing in the shire area, like others have reported. I wonder if that is the issue.

Anyone else know which is correct?

2 weeks later
#4220 5 months ago
Quoted from Yodamingus:

I do have a full set of Cliffy Protectors Yet to install ... ( Not sure if i will Install all or any ) Opinions?

Mine came with cliffy protectors on the Shire and Gimli shots and they don't affect gameplay at all, so no reason not to.

#4246 5 months ago
Quoted from Pinash:

How is the inner orbit supposed to shoot? When I hit mine, there is a 90% chance it hits the rubbers above the pop bumpers and bounces into the pops. Is it supposed to clear the pops and roll into the outer orbit?

Mine returns down the right orbit pretty reliably. Maybe you need to adjust the inner orbit ball guide.

#4251 5 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

The manual shows no part like this.

I checked Marco for lord of the rings posts. Is this it?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5332-03

1 week later
#4285 5 months ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

Only machine they own and made a claim it has only been played 15-20 times ever

The total plays audit count is reset when the battery is replaced. As mentioned above, condition is key. Maybe the playfield was replaced to make it look like a nice HUO pin. Seems like inside the cabinet would be super clean inside, as well as the lockdown bar, with only a few plays.

Give it some plays, to see if it plays like new, and everything works fine. A nice working LOTR with no cabinet wear, nice PF, and no board hacks is very desirable in any lineup.

#4287 5 months ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

as soon as the ball is kicked from the feeder VUK into the shooter lane, the shooter switch is hit, thus blocking the skill shot on "lane".
Any idea on how I can manage that?

Maybe the switch is failing and sending a blip-blip signal, or maybe a wire is loose, causing the same issue. Try the 'active switch test' and see how it looks. (I think that is the switch test where the switch shows lit as long as you hold it.)

Also, it may just need to be adjusted a little, so it does not double blip.

#4292 5 months ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

From a collecting standpoint,Is it that big a deal to have a LOTR with Gandalf on the white horse?
The one i am looking at does not have that figure
Thanks

No, I don't think it is a big deal. Nobody says or asks which Gandalf is included when selling LOTR. Also the 500 LOTR LEs that were made a few years after the standard, don't have any figures.

The 'armies of middle earth' figures used in the standard were widely sold, and you can buy an NOS Gandalf and other figures from amazon or ebay.

#4303 5 months ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Don't think my magnet is working. Went to the tests; spinned/opto/switch are all ok but I don't see any magnet kickin' in.
What's the correct way to test it?
If it is not trigering, how can I pinpoint the issue?

Check the magnet fuse. (F20) If blown, try a 4A slow blow fuse.

#4317 5 months ago
Quoted from red-line:

My sister made this custom key rack for my birthday. Not sure I've seen anything like this before.

My keys are jealous!

key (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4345 4 months ago
Quoted from Adaminski:

If I unplug and plug in the switch below the playfield, the switch toggles as if it's been closed.

Sounds like your switch is stuck closed or the actuator needs adjustment. It looks like the switch is wired to be normally open, but yours registers when connected.

Notice that your actuator is bent and mine is straight. I would start by checking that. You can also check the switch using a meter in continuity mode at the connector you mentioned.

IMG_6670 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4379 4 months ago
Quoted from snaroff:

I don't understand why some machines seem to need a coil replacement (to boost flipper strength) and some don't.

Yes the original coils are strong, but the power fades a little after an hour of play due to the way the originals heat up.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

I did buy the medium strength replacements coils, but I haven't installed them yet.

You can install a fan to cool the originals instead of swapping them out.

3 weeks later
#4483 3 months ago
Quoted from Filmstudy:

So the question is...Does anyone know why the right VUK coil malfunction might occur when it appears the switch is working correctly?

Your switch is having intermittent issues and showing pressed when it is not. That makes the VUK coil fire, but the switch does not change, so the software thinks the VUK coil has failed and turns it off, but it still works in ball search, so you know the VUK is OK.

Open the switch test in the diagnostics and test it out a bunch and you will see. Maybe it is failing, or partially pressed and needs adjustment.

#4497 3 months ago
Quoted from Raegor:

I'm wondering if they're superbands...

Superbands are not popular because they don't bounce like the original rubber, so there is less challenge, less opportunity to improve your skills, and they are typically not used in tournaments. Titan competition silicone is one option for multicolor that has a bounce similar to rubber.

#4503 3 months ago
Quoted from Raegor:

Blasphemy!!

I would have gone with Led Zep due to their Hobbit tie-ins 'The Battle of Evermore" and 'Misty Mountain Hop'.

GD and Hobbit tie-ins are lesser known. (Such as - Phil Lesh named his 2002 studio album There and Back Again. etc.)
http://danb.altervista.org/gdhobbit.htm

#4529 3 months ago
Quoted from Daditude:

shipped conus

Am I the only one who had to google what a conus was?

1 week later
#4541 3 months ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Are the pop bumpers supposed to be weirdly shaped? trying to figure out if they are like that naturally or if mine has chips out of it.

Done to prevent any chance of stuck balls.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lotr-pop-bumper-plastics

#4581 86 days ago
Quoted from Lazar:

How do I test the rectifier?

With your meter, you should see AC in and DC out. They can fail or maybe a bad connection.

A full wave bridge rectifier is a common power supply component. Plenty of info online.

1 week later
#4628 76 days ago

My goal is to improve my tournament play and strategy, which includes ignoring extra balls unless there is a lucrative point award, and trying to get good results with only 3. All my pins are 3 balls, no EBs.

That also makes play move smoothly when I have guests. If I'm playing a 4 player game with friends, I don't want things to slow down and have them wait too long while I play my extra balls. (I could just plunge them, but then they act weird, thinking I'm handicapping my play.)

#4633 74 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

both outline posts on their toughest setting as well as removing the rubber from both posts between the inane and outlane, and set the game on a 7.5 pitch.

Also use bouncy 'rubber' flipper bands, not mushy super bands, and set the flipper angle lower to make catching harder. (also, longer coil stops or plungers make the flipper throw less to make catching harder)

You can also misadjust the inlane guides so the ball is bouncing a bit when it rolls over the flipper.

Shorter "lighting" flippers are always an option. If you search for how to set up tourney pins, you can probably find chapters on the subject.

LotR is skipped in many tourneys but they have one set hard for use each year at Pinburgh and I noticed that it was used in the local tourney at Ground Kontrol when I visited Portland OR this week.

#4640 72 days ago
Quoted from liorillusion:

so i decide to do a project! to restore this machine and to make powder coating.

The decals look great! I would go with black T-molding to match the armor also.

#4661 68 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

I like the hammered bronze look, see post 4639
(how do you use the link button? I press it and then what? )

To link to a post:
The post number at the top of the post is a link.
Open that link in a new tab, and copy and paste that url here.

post #4639:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/93#post-5144192

#4674 66 days ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

Time to go back and read 94 pages of this thread. Don’t foresee much productivity at work this week...

I just skip through the pictures in the gallery to see what's up with a new pin.

1 week later
#4707 58 days ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

I think my high score in 10 games is around 12 million. Long way to go be get GC.

Welcome to the club. Ouch 12mil. Need more time playing and less time modding.

#4726 56 days ago

We have 120vac at the wall and use an 8A fuse in the US. (120x8=960watts)
You have 230vac at the wall, so a 5A fuse is enough. (230x5=1150watts)

Also, that appears to be a 3/4" long fuse, so make sure you buy one that is the same size.

Grab an inexpensive volt meter from the auto store while your out picking up fuses, in case more troubleshooting is needed.

Congrats on the NIB LotR, that must be an interesting story!

#4730 56 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

It was just a right time right place scenario. The original private collector bought brand new and stored for over 9 years. I had an opportunity to get a new le gold so I jumped on it.

If you have more unboxing photos, please post!

#4736 54 days ago
Quoted from auspin:

Did the balrog test and it now Opens** and closes in the test

I'm confused. You wrote in your first post that the test works. Was that a typo?

#4771 48 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

I have a few other ideas for the frame graphics I might try

Yup, maybe invert that image, and make the map black with gold text.

#4783 46 days ago
Quoted from Raegor:

Or he bought it at a convention and it was in the tournament.

That is a "TOPS" tourney system. You put in an extra dollar to enter the GC tournament for a set period like over 2 weeks, and it recorded who had the highest score, and the operator paid them cash at the end of the specified period. That displayed the score to beat, and the cash amount in the prize pool, etc. That is my recollection from what I read. I did see one running on Stern KISS back in 2015 at SFGE - can't remember if that used the digital display or just the cardboad sign.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5011-00

Retails for $400 and comes with a bunch of parts. Someone had one for T3 for sale on pinside for $200 back 2yrs ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-tops-betabrite-tournament-topper-perfect

#4786 44 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

It’s also easy to see why people don't like it in group situations. My wife and I were playing last night and after 2 games she decided we should alternate single player games.

I like keeping extra balls turned off on my pins which keeps thing moving better when playing with guests.

2 weeks later
#4874 30 days ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

Hi everyone,
i installed a shaker kit into my LOTR LE today but the shaker isn't working, does this need to be turned on in the menue settings somewhere or is there a way that I can test it. The shaker kit is from pinball life.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition

1 week later
#4902 23 days ago
Quoted from rpageler:

sound made from all VUKs. I thought 3214727385-eject was balrog, but listening to it a few times, it's more like a cow or pig or something. Yes....what to replace with is a challenge.

Others have mentioned the odd VUK sound supposed to be an orc. (grunting?) Maybe a snarl noise?

#4931 18 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

As a result of the protector and probably just me reinstalling the left ramp appropriately the balls are flying off of that thing like nobody's business. Is the guy still making those brass air ball guards for the left ramp?

Yea, mine fly off the mid section of the left ramp and land in the shire fairly often, which started after waxing it 2yrs ago. (using original flipper coils, not high power) The protector keeps the ball on the ramp down by the lanes, which is not my issue, but not sure about your situation.

One trick I found was slightly loosening the ramp screws so it has a bit of wobble to absorb the balls energy, especially the screw securing the middle section of the ramp.

#4986 12 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Out of curiosity, what causes them to become magnetized?

The material used with the chrome balls seems to magnetize. I use the cheapest carbon steel balls from Marco, and the same balls have been fine for years in TZ, TAF, LotR and Metallica. Does your sword lock mech possibly have a loose screw or something and not secure and moving smooth? Is your playfield set to the 6.5deg slope?

#5013 9 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Housing league on Tuesday. What's ther best way to make ball times reasonable? Totally remove posts, or will just rubbers do it? Any other suggestions?

No need to go to crazy-
EBs Turned off. (extra balls = 0)
Ball save off (should be off by default)
Set posts to hard setting.
Make sure flipper rubbers are bouncy rubber, not superbands which have minimal bounce.
Make sure sling switches are sensitive.
Clean and wax the playfield.

Even harder, which I would skip-
Steeper playfield angle
Drop the flipper angle a little
Remove outlane post rubbers
Change global game setting to hard from normal. (harder to start MBs and relight modes and such)

#5023 8 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Thanks for the response. We've got some really good players. What I'll probably do is:

Extra balls off
Hard mode
Ball save off (is there a separate setting for multiball?)
Outlane post rubbers off
And maybe tighten up the sling switches a bit.

Don't forget to check the tilt tightness and number of warnings.

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