(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Jarbyjibbo
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There are 7598 posts in this topic. You are on page 152 of 152.
#7551 20 days ago

Is there anyone out there that can make a harness for the path of the dead so each of the 4 figures blinks with one of the 4 lights behind the path?

#7552 20 days ago

Anyone have any advice on adjusting the Gimli VUK? Mine keeps rejecting back to itself. I keep watching it but apart form taking a video in slow-mo I am not sure what has changed.

#7553 20 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Anyone have any advice on adjusting the Gimli VUK? Mine keeps rejecting back to itself. I keep watching it but apart form taking a video in slow-mo I am not sure what has changed.

Have you checked the mech itself and the wireform it ejects into? If either of those are loose it absorbs the momentum and won't make it all the way up.

#7554 20 days ago

Thanks, I will check that tomorrow. I was just playing it and thought I would ask before I started tearing into it.

#7555 19 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I was thinking the same (plus ring of fire...red). The ring is obviously plastic but how is the fit and finish? How does it feel in terms of durability?

I ended up buying the set with the red shooter and got them installed today. All in all I ended up a little let down with the start button.

Firstly, it would have been very nice if the switch body were the same that was used in the original production so I didn't have to swap out all the wiring. Not the end of the world but would have been preferred.

As someone else mentioned, the bottom lugs on the new switch body are wider so you have to swap out the crimp on connector and swap over the resistor that's soldered on. Again not a huge deal as I have a full box of every type of electrical crimp on connector and soldering is no biggy.

Finally got it all swapped out and plugged it in and then I was pretty underwhelmed. Unlike some others, my lights are all incandescent. The incandescent bulb does very little to illuminate the eye compared to all the photos I saw advertised which I assume are using LED's. Again, not the end of the world, I'll just swap this one light with an LED. What a hassle that turned out to be. I haven't bought LED bulbs in a while so maybe they are shaped different now but every single 555 LED bulb I had was too wide to fit through the insert tube for the start button. In the end I had to take a knife and carve off the outer lip of one of my no ghosting LED bulbs I got from Terry.

Once I finally got all that done and had it installed and illuminated, I again was disappointed. Because of the convex nature of the fixture, when standing at a normal player position, there is very little to no illumination effect at all. You either need to be about 3' tall or be standing 6+ feet away from it to see the full effect. In fact you pretty much need to be in almost a direct line in front of it and not off to much of an angle at all. In my room with the set up I have, unfortunately nobody will really get to see it. I probably would have preferred a flat disk that you could see from any angle and sacraficed the depth of field from it.

Shooter rod was pretty nice though. With it being red in the middle, it would be pretty sharp if illuminated like my JP amber rod. I may mess with that some time if I get bored.

I'm definitely not trying to steer anyone away from purchasing, I just thought I'd let you know about some of its limitations and offer additional insight so you can be fully educated before purchasing.

#7556 19 days ago

Same underwhelm as Jarbyjibbo. I am tall and have to move waay back to see the effect due to the dome, can't even tell it is lit when standing next to machine. I run flicker/flame bulbs on my coin slots and start button, so the eye looks real cool like that to short kids,, or when I am entering the room. Forgot to post my update. I bought another start button with a flat clear lense to switch the paper eye insert over to that. Ironically both spades on that new one are both miniature so no need to modify anything besides diode swap.

#7557 19 days ago

i have

Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

I ended up buying the set with the red shooter and got them installed today. All in all I ended up a little let down with the start button.
Firstly, it would have been very nice if the switch body were the same that was used in the original production so I didn't have to swap out all the wiring. Not the end of the world but would have been preferred.
As someone else mentioned, the bottom lugs on the new switch body are wider so you have to swap out the crimp on connector and swap over the resistor that's soldered on. Again not a huge deal as I have a full box of every type of electrical crimp on connector and soldering is no biggy.
Finally got it all swapped out and plugged it in and then I was pretty underwhelmed. Unlike some others, my lights are all incandescent. The incandescent bulb does very little to illuminate the eye compared to all the photos I saw advertised which I assume are using LED's. Again, not the end of the world, I'll just swap this one light with an LED. What a hassle that turned out to be. I haven't bought LED bulbs in a while so maybe they are shaped different now but every single 555 LED bulb I had was too wide to fit through the insert tube for the start button. In the end I had to take a knife and carve off the outer lip of one of my no ghosting LED bulbs I got from Terry.
Once I finally got all that done and had it installed and illuminated, I again was disappointed. Because of the convex nature of the fixture, when standing at a normal player position, there is very little to no illumination effect at all. You either need to be about 3' tall or be standing 6+ feet away from it to see the full effect. In fact you pretty much need to be in almost a direct line in front of it and not off to much of an angle at all. In my room with the set up I have, unfortunately nobody will really get to see it. I probably would have preferred a flat disk that you could see from any angle and sacraficed the depth of field from it.
Shooter rod was pretty nice though. With it being red in the middle, it would be pretty sharp if illuminated like my JP amber rod. I may mess with that some time if I get bored.
I'm definitely not trying to steer anyone away from purchasing, I just thought I'd let you know about some of its limitations and offer additional insight so you can be fully educated before purchasing.

Thorough,honest review

#7558 15 days ago

I know the answer is findable but I dont feel like hunting...

LOTR I have has super bright flickering LEDs someone put in.

What is the general consensus on best LED setup for the game?

I dont mind LEDs just need to not go blind and stop the flickering before I seizure.

#7559 15 days ago
Quoted from Elvishasleft:I know the answer is findable but I dont feel like hunting...
LOTR I have has super bright flickering LEDs someone put in.
What is the general consensus on best LED setup for the game?
I dont mind LEDs just need to not go blind and stop the flickering before I seizure.

Warm white LEDs and install a LED OCD board.

#7560 15 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Warm white LEDs and install a LED OCD board.

tks.. Ill look into that

#7561 15 days ago
Quoted from Elvishasleft:

tks.. Ill look into that

And if you are looking for a less expensive alternative.... I just converted the LOTR I just got back to incandescent. It was a mix and match of different LED types, brands, and color temp. Looked like shit and had way too much flickering as well. Incandescent really does look good on this game.

According to the website/store the Whitestar OCD board is a little limited compared to the WPC boards they sell. Not sure how well it works.. BTW I have LED OCD and GI OCD boards in my WPC games and love the result.

#7562 15 days ago

Hi. I’m replacing the balrog wiring harness for a new one. I’m curious if it’s okay to run the wire behind (yellow arrow) or does it have to go inside how it came (blue arrow)? If it has to go inside is it difficult to take out balrog? I can’t slide the wiring harness in the inside without removing balrog due to the molex connector at the end. Thanks!

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#7563 15 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Hi. I’m replacing the balrog wiring harness for a new one. I’m curious if it’s okay to run the wire behind (yellow arrow) or does it have to go inside how it came (blue arrow)? If it has to go inside is it difficult to take out balrog? I can’t slide the wiring harness in the inside without removing balrog due to the molex connector at the end. Thanks!
[quoted image]

Can't you just remove the cotter pin, slide the mech up, run the wires and then put the mech back on the post?

If you run the wires behind the plate they will rub against the plastic behind and most likely fail prematurely.

#7564 15 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Can't you just remove the cotter pin, slide the mech up, run the wires and then put the mech back on the post?
If you run the wires behind the plate they will rub against the plastic behind and most likely fail prematurely.

I tried removing the cotter pin and I was able to slide up a few millimeters but then it stopped. Not sure if I just need to add more force to move the mech up or need to unhook something from under playfield.

#7565 15 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

I tried removing the cotter pin and I was able to slide up a few millimeters but then it stopped. Not sure if I just need to add more force to move the mech up or need to unhook something from under playfield.

Take off cotter pin and washer. Slide up post rubber as you lift the balrog. Nothing under playfield to remove.

Post rubber should be on bottom of the long post when installed.

I just had mine off to put in a new LED from Cointaker.

#7566 15 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Hi. I’m replacing the balrog wiring harness for a new one. I’m curious if it’s okay to run the wire behind (yellow arrow) or does it have to go inside how it came (blue arrow)? If it has to go inside is it difficult to take out balrog? I can’t slide the wiring harness in the inside without removing balrog due to the molex connector at the end. Thanks!
[quoted image]

Check out this thread for some info
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/burn-balrog-burn-lotr#post-6461686

#7567 14 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

And if you are looking for a less expensive alternative.... I just converted the LOTR I just got back to incandescent. It was a mix and match of different LED types, brands, and color temp. Looked like shit and had way too much flickering as well. Incandescent really does look good on this game.
According to the website/store the Whitestar OCD board is a little limited compared to the WPC boards they sell. Not sure how well it works.. BTW I have LED OCD and GI OCD boards in my WPC games and love the result.

Thanks yah I may do that.... first one I had was way back when and I dont remember minding the stock lights.

#7568 14 days ago

Thanks for the help everyone in removing balrog. I just needed to use more force in getting him up the post.

#7569 12 days ago

Anyone know exactly what the three coil adjustments do at the end of the standard adjustments? My left flipper could use a little extra and I couldn't find an explanation anywhere in the manual.

#7570 11 days ago
Quoted from killerrobots:

Anyone know exactly what the three coil adjustments do at the end of the standard adjustments? My left flipper could use a little extra and I couldn't find an explanation anywhere in the manual.

I mentioned a few times that those setting don't seem to affect anything. They are there in the menu, but not complete in the hardware/software as far as I can detect.

#7572 11 days ago

Installed the Pinball Center engraved armor. Love the look!!!

I put orange reflective tape behind. It sparkles and changes. Pretty fire like but inexpensive.

78E03647-A00F-4BFB-BBEC-3D223BEF6DDA (resized).jpegD63011F1-CC4C-468A-9EDF-E69DBBAFF5C0 (resized).jpeg

#7573 10 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Installed the Pinball Center engraved armor. Love the look!!!
I put orange reflective tape behind. It sparkles and changes. Pretty fire like but inexpensive.

[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks nice. Where did you get the armor from? Also, if I may ask, what is that futuristic looking pod in the next room?

#7574 10 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Looks nice. Where did you get the armor from? Also, if I may ask, what is that futuristic looking pod in the next room?

Armor is from Pinball Center in Germany. Yep shipping is insane. I don’t care I thought it would look nice. I guessed right! You can see my SW engraved armor in one of the pics. It’s from the same place.

We call it the time portal, the pod, and the orb. It’s an auto-cleaning litterbox. It’s called the litter-robot 3. It gets more attention from guests than the pinball machines LOL.

#7575 8 days ago

Hello. Im having sound stuttering issues with pinsound and wondering if anyone has had similar issues? I emailed them for tech but waiting for their response. It’s updated to latest firmware and I’m using 32gb 3.0 usb drive. I’m using the sjoend sound file. You can hear the Stuttering throughout the video, especially in the last 10 seconds of the video. I just uploaded the video so it may be blurry. Also, Im not sure if I’m just noticing more sounds now, but in the beginning when the ball gets grabbed by the ring you can hear a buzzing sound. Not sure if it’s normal or not but I figure I would mention it in case it’s related. Thanks

#7576 8 days ago
Quoted from medic7000:

Hello. Im having sound stuttering issues with pinsound and wondering if anyone has had similar issues? I emailed them for tech but waiting for their response. It’s updated to latest firmware and I’m using 32gb 3.0 usb drive. I’m using the sjoend sound file. You can hear the Stuttering throughout the video, especially in the last 10 seconds of the video. I just uploaded the video so it may be blurry. Also, Im not sure if I’m just noticing more sounds now, but in the beginning when the ball gets grabbed by the ring you can hear a buzzing sound. Not sure if it’s normal or not but I figure I would mention it in case it’s related. Thanks

That package doesn't work right, as most LOTR sound packages. They aren't formatted correctly for the newer firmware. Hawknole works 100%.

#7577 8 days ago

Does the Saruman intro for Two Towers multiball sound fine for Hawknole or the original sounds using Pinsound? In mine for both of those packages, it repeats the "to war!" part. When listening to the sound file that is in the zip on a computer, it sounds fine.

#7578 8 days ago
Quoted from oopsallberrys:

Does the Saruman intro for Two Towers multiball sound fine for Hawknole or the original sounds using Pinsound? In mine for both of those packages, it repeats the "to war!" part. When listening to the sound file that is in the zip on a computer, it sounds fine.

There's an overlap with the jingle/voice call I think (author put a voice call with the sound effect). I have to look into why it happens as well.

I don't really like that mix in any case. It uses the two towers main song in too many missions.

I am looking into making the Sojen mix work correctly. A lot of copy and paste to do. I will publish it on pinsound.org once done but it may take a while. Life is getting in the way of geek time.

#7579 8 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I don't really like that mix in any case. It uses the two towers main song in too many missions.

I agree. I went back to the original game sound (but sounds better through the pinsound speakers) and the "to war!" thing was still present so it may be a problem with the original pinsound config files. I'll have to take a look through it.

#7580 7 days ago
Quoted from oopsallberrys:

I agree. I went back to the original game sound (but sounds better through the pinsound speakers) and the "to war!" thing was still present so it may be a problem with the original pinsound config files. I'll have to take a look through it.

Found the problem. Someone extended the 1st voice call. "A new power is rising". Then the second call should be "To WAR!" a second later.

The extended call now says "A new power is rising, it's victory is at hand, to WAR!". It lasts so long which causes the overlap.

1st sound call is 1768306752. 2nd call(To WAR) is 0488480143. Just delete the sound file in the 2nd call and leave that folder empty.

#7581 7 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

1st sound call is 1768306752. 2nd call(To WAR) is 0488480143. Just delete the sound file in the 2nd call and leave that folder empty.

Sweet! Thank you!

#7582 7 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Found the problem. Someone extended the 1st voice call. "A new power is rising". Then the second call should be "To WAR!" a second later.
The extended call now says "A new power is rising, it's victory is at hand, to WAR!". It lasts so long which causes the overlap.
1st sound call is 1768306752. 2nd call(To WAR) is 0488480143. Just delete the sound file in the 2nd call and leave that folder empty.

Yep, many thanks! I prefer the hawknole, but I always noticed that problem with two towers MB. Appreciate it!

18
#7583 6 days ago

Well shit. Got to Valinor tonight. Long game! GC 486M. Satisfying!

#7584 5 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Well shit. Got to Valinor tonight. Long game! GC 486M. Satisfying!

Wow, congratulation....

#7585 5 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Well shit. Got to Valinor tonight. Long game! GC 486M. Satisfying!

I can only dream about that, well done.

#7586 5 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Well shit. Got to Valinor tonight. Long game! GC 486M. Satisfying!

Congratulations!

I was thinking of making tshirts up
MADE IT TO VALINOR

But the best seller will say

"MADE IT TO VALINOR "

on the front and

"almost.........."

on the back

#7587 5 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:There's an overlap with the jingle/voice call I think (author put a voice call with the sound effect). I have to look into why it happens as well.
I don't really like that mix in any case. It uses the two towers main song in too many missions.
I am looking into making the Sojen mix work correctly. A lot of copy and paste to do. I will publish it on pinsound.org once done but it may take a while. Life is getting in the way of geek time.

Yes please make sojen work properly. I’ll be glad to donate to the cause

#7588 5 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Congratulations!
I was thinking of making tshirts up
MADE IT TO VALINOR
But the best seller will say
"MADE IT TO VALINOR "
on the front and
"almost.........."
on the back

Love a good t-shirt idea, that would be awesome

#7589 5 days ago

Can we add a poll to this thread listing "did you make it to Valinor", "did you complete Valinor" and the various semi-finals below that?

To see how abysmal I am at this game....

#7590 4 days ago

any idea what might be causing this sticky flipper? Stops, sleeves, bushings are all relatively new. had to adjust the flipper after replacing the bushing and now it drags back to rest if it even makes it there at all.Any help would be great.

#7591 4 days ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

any idea what might be causing this sticky flipper? Stops, sleeves, bushings are all relatively new. had to adjust the flipper after replacing the bushing and now it drags back to rest if it even makes it there at all.Any help would be great.

Tightened it too close to the top of the bushing. Bring the bat right to the bushing and then back it off 1/8", then tighten it down. That is assuming it's none of the other things you say are all good.

#7592 4 days ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

Tightened it too close to the top of the bushing. Bring the bat right to the bushing and then back it off 1/8", then tighten it down. That is assuming it's none of the other things you say are all good.

Thanks! Will give it a shot.

#7593 3 days ago
Quoted from chrismillsmusic:

Thanks! Will give it a shot.

Yep, I think he’s right. Also double check your return spring. Sometimes they aren’t tight enough and don’t snap the flipper back into position. I had that happen on my BK2k. I put a new tighter spring on and fixed it.

#7594 2 days ago

Anyone would know what are the current available options for Arwen plastic protector?

Thanks

#7595 2 days ago
Quoted from Ashram56:

Anyone would know what are the current available options for Arwen plastic protector?
Thanks

Only one I know of is the Gollum replacement.

#7597 2 days ago

I was referring to the protector which precisely protects that piece of plastic...

On another note, I'm going to start the swap of my LOTR playfield (to a NOS playfield I bought a few months ago).

Any advice ? Never done a playfield swap before (but I do hold my ground in terms of electronics and repairs, so this does not particularily scare me, just want to plan ahead).

I was planning to swap first all the underside mechanics before starting upside, and I'll have a custom made rotissoire to hold the new playfield. Or should I actually put the old playfield on the rotissoire and mount the new playfield and proceed from there ?

Cheers

#7598 2 days ago

I usually strip the top, then bottom and transfer it over, then reinstall the top. Just take tons of photos from all angles and you'll be fine. Make sure you keep all parts together for each assembly do you don't mix it up. Double check the size of any screw before you put it in the pf so you don't screw all the way through it.

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