(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

4 years ago

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  • 486 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by LOTR_breath
  • Topic is favorited by 255 Pinsiders


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3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #1907 Service bulletin noting lock down bar change Posted by Jarbyjibbo (2 years ago)

Post #4404 The Valinor Strategy Video Posted by CLEllison (5 months ago)

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#129 4 years ago

Long time member! Got mine about 8 years ago for $2600. Not that many mods, but here are pics of the shooter rod and more recently the color DMD. Was my favorite Stern of all time but I feel my love for Metallica Premium has usurped the king!

2010_1014WCSafter0001.JPG 2010_1014WCSafter0002.JPG IMG_20141114_175435_870.jpg IMG_20141114_175535_755.jpg IMG_20141114_175713_579.jpg IMG_20141114_175331_314.jpg
#130 4 years ago

Well, I just looked at my pictures. I have more recently switched to the upscaling version of the color DMD rom and it looks MUCH better now.

#135 4 years ago

Yes, I got it from Tom W. That website actually shows a few in stock so I would jump on it if you want one. I thought all runs of this shooter rod were long gone with no more to be made.

1 month later
#232 4 years ago
Quoted from jsandjs:

I can't believe i never noticed this thread before. Lord of the Rings is my longest owned pin. I got it new in December of 2003 and it's one that will never leave. In my humble opinion it is one of the greatest pinball machines made!


NIB purchase. Even a sword topper. So why still the ugly rule and price cards?

You're right. It is one of the greatest ever!

1 week later
#253 4 years ago

Ahhhh, the shooter and the Shire......... nice!

3 weeks later
#277 4 years ago

There nothing that pulls the diverter back other than the spring. You say there is not much resistance when moving it by hand, but it really should be more like zero resistance. Looks like possibly the shaft(just like a flipper shaft) needs a little more free play(intentional slop). Partially loosen the set screw that clamps onto the shaft and push the shaft up towards the top side a small amount, like 1/2 to 1 mm. Then re-tighten the set screw. If this doesn't correct the problem, I would try cutting off about 1/8 to 1/4 of the spring so that it pulls harder.

2 weeks later
#287 4 years ago

You have my Axe!

#299 4 years ago

Mind the Warg!

5 months later
#449 3 years ago

You did a better job than I did installing that sword decal. That thing was a pain to get on correctly.

#466 3 years ago
Quoted from dung:

You do, but I believe there is also a 7th gift that doesnt haven an insert on the playfield which you also need.

Yes, the 7th gift of the elves is "Ring Frenzy Multiball" and I've only seen it a few times in well over 1000 games!

#493 3 years ago

Just beautiful! Nice choice of color on the leg protectors too.

1 month later
#585 3 years ago

You need the 10.0 for sure. CPU and display roms. Get them here for $15.


There are several places to get the custom cards, but you will need to print them out yourself. Try Ken's Custom Cards or Pinball Boy.

1 week later
#652 3 years ago
Quoted from soren:

Are there any tricks to setup LOTR with 2 tilt warnings?

Try utilities/installs/competition. I'd have to double check in the manual, but that is the only way to set some games to 2 tilt warnings(Tommy for example).

1 week later
#655 3 years ago

520-5242-00 is the board part #. The manual does not break it down into components, but they do look like just standard 3mm LED's. Of course you'd need the correct color, either white, yellow or red. The LED's are all clear. Something similar to what you would find here....


2 weeks later
#671 3 years ago

What modern pin has ball times shorter than IM? Answer: GB

What modern pin has ball times longer than LOTR? Answer: GOT

I love all four!

#675 3 years ago

Maybe I should say that GOT can play as long or longer than LOTR. With stock outlanes and liberal tilt the game can last a very long time. Especially with EB's left on. A decent game is gonna net you 1 and probably 2 EB's. We've had some league nights where a four player match on GOT seems about as long as S-M or ST.

#680 3 years ago
Quoted from Propaganda:

It's becoming clear to me that it is the people who OWN or prefer games with VERY SHORT BALL TIMES who are saying this like a broken record over and over and over again.
They always compare it to IM or some other brutal game with ultra short ball times.
They want LOTR to move down in popularity, and these games to be more popular.
Of course if you are in a tournament you'd prefer the game end quickly so you can go home.
A five year old says to a ten year old, "you are old". It's relative.
It's these people who are doing this and giving it a bad name. LOTR DOES NOT have long ball times.
Compare it to an average game. It's average!
Call them out! It's bullshit!

I agree with most of what you said. It bothers me too. When I get home today I will get some audits and post some solid facts!

#682 3 years ago

Here ya go. LOTR is the longest, but only by a few seconds.
Average ball times in order shortest to longest:

Tommy 1:03
Tron 1:19
CV 1:21
Met premium 1:27
AFM 1:38
GOT premium 1:39
LOTR 1:43

Also, I would like to add that my wife plays GOT quite a bit and she is not very good, so those times would be even higher.

#697 3 years ago

Put LOTR in a tourney with S-M and see which one holds things up.

And POTC for that matter.

1 week later
#735 3 years ago

Hard to say exactly which one. There are different gauge wires going into that IDC connector. IDC connectors suck. I would replace that connector with a Molex connector with crimped pins. Crimping pins to replace connectors is a skill anyone can learn. And if your in the hobby for very long, a skill you will need for sure. All the components you would need to do this repair can be found here... Plus a crimping tool. But to be honest, I usually do it with a pair of needle nose pliers.


1 month later
#831 3 years ago

I've had mixed results with the Mezel target splints. I put one on the target just below the Quorra shot on Tron and it worked wonders. Tried one on the "I" target next to the SOL on AFM and it didn't really seem to help. Same thing with the pick target next to the snake on Met. For some reason, the Palantir target hasn't really bothered me, but it does lean a fair amount.

#833 3 years ago
Quoted from Razorbak86:

Just out of curiosity, which one did you get? The large 2-piece splint, or the small 1-piece splint?
Note: There is a "Store Owner" comment below the very bottom user review that says, "A quick clarification on this post- the Stern splints do not currently work with the Palintir LOTR targets. We have this one on our to do list!"

It's been a while ago, but I'm pretty sure it was the one piece splint. They are a slight PITA to install!

#863 3 years ago

That kick out has a self learning feature as to how hard it is supposed to kick. Maybe try a factory reset, then toss the ball in there a few times and see what you get.

#865 3 years ago
Quoted from zrbrt:

+1 for you sir -- looks like we are in business!

They don't call me LOTR breath for nothing. LOL!

1 week later
#916 3 years ago
Quoted from pinmister:

Thank you for the clarification. I still am having difficultly believing that Gomez designed the ball to take a 1" straight drop off POTD to fall onto a plastic and then into a hole. Not only is it clunky but it also tears the shit out of the shire. I do not think this was an intentional part of design, but I could be wrong? I would love to hear from Gomez himself on his thoughts on this issue.

I think you are over estimating George Gomez.

1 month later
#977 3 years ago

It is clunky when the ball falls off the POTD into the Shire, but to me that's part of the charm of LOTR. Yes, my original Arwen plastic got broken so it could be a poor design. But the hobby came up with a great solution, repro plastic and plastic protector that will be unlikely to get broken again. Also FYI, I do get the very rare occurance of the ball falling directly off to the side, missing the habitrail and landing directly onto the playfield. Rarely happens, but it keeps you on your toes!

#998 3 years ago
Quoted from tu71586:

Question for LOTR owners who have fixed this problem:
I'm having Balrog issues (see video). When I start the game, I hear the balrog motor run, and it seems like the gears are not "catching." I've searched the forums and see that other people have had this issue too, but I haven't found the fix other than replacing the motor (I thought at one point, I had come across a post about replacing gears but can't seem to find it now no matter which search terms I put in, argh). Is there a way to just replace the gears without the having to replace the entire motor?
I also sometimes would have the problem where one of the scene modes would start (War of the Ents, Witch King, etc.) when I start a game, but it seems to be an intermittent problem and seemed to happen more when the balrog was stuck in the closed position (I'm taking "closed" to mean that the balrog is blocking the ramp). I'm hoping it's not because of a loose wire in the balrog assembly, but in any case, I'm thinking I should focus on the motor issue first?
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
» YouTube video
(Sorry, not sure how to post video in my forum post)


Take a look at this part. Listed as POTC ship clutch but it is also used on the Balrog. Try tightening the two screws that hold it to the shaft. They can work loose.

#1000 3 years ago
Quoted from tu71586:

Question for LOTR owners who have fixed this problem:
I'm having Balrog issues (see video). When I start the game, I hear the balrog motor run, and it seems like the gears are not "catching." I've searched the forums and see that other people have had this issue too, but I haven't found the fix other than replacing the motor (I thought at one point, I had come across a post about replacing gears but can't seem to find it now no matter which search terms I put in, argh). Is there a way to just replace the gears without the having to replace the entire motor?
I also sometimes would have the problem where one of the scene modes would start (War of the Ents, Witch King, etc.) when I start a game, but it seems to be an intermittent problem and seemed to happen more when the balrog was stuck in the closed position (I'm taking "closed" to mean that the balrog is blocking the ramp). I'm hoping it's not because of a loose wire in the balrog assembly, but in any case, I'm thinking I should focus on the motor issue first?
Any suggestions would be most welcome.
» YouTube video
(Sorry, not sure how to post video in my forum post)

Your 2nd problem is most likely a switch adjustment on the Balrog pivot, the one that reads ball hits to the Balrog. It is a normally closed switch. If it is adjusted too sensitive this problem can happen. BUT, if it is not sensitive enough you will have trouble with registering hits to the Balrog. My LOTR does what you describe but not very often. I would rather leave it alone because all hits(even softer ones) to the Balrog always register.

1 month later
#1144 3 years ago

Often when a flipper transistor is shorted, the flipper will engage as soon as power is turned on. If left in this state for any length of time it will blow the fuse. Check to make sure those are the correct 3 amp slo-blo fuses. Remove the fuse and test with a meter. As suggested, test the ohms of the coil with the coil removed from the circuit. Also desolder(or cut) one end of the diode and test it with the diode test function on the meter. Should read .7 volts in one direction and infinite in the other direction. You probably blew the diode and possibly the transistor when connecting power backwards. The transistors in question are q15 and q16. Do you have a manual?

#1147 3 years ago

Sounds like a good plan. I was gonna say don't pay 2.95/each for those from PBL but my go to place is out of stock right now.


Usually it's hard to beat GPE on price and availability on anything pinball electronics related.

1 week later
#1173 3 years ago

Does the plunger actually move up and down twice, or does it seem like it's lowering once and two balls get past it?

#1177 3 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

New best DTR!
2 ball DTR, naturally.

Very nice. My wife once did it in 36 seconds, which I have never even come close to!

1 month later
#1222 2 years ago
Quoted from Neal_W:

Anyone have a spare shire VUK plastic number "-20" shown in the pic?
Let me know if you have an unused one or used unbroken one your willing to part with. Thanks!

That is the exact plastic I broke after installing the PBL stronger flipper coils! I had to buy an entire plastic set just to get the one plastic. I swapped the normal coil back into the right flipper and left the stronger coil on the left.

1 week later
#1244 2 years ago

Have the high power coils in there btw.

There is the cause.

2 weeks later
#1288 2 years ago

I have black superbands on mine. One of the very few of my games that I left superbands on. They look and play great on LOTR.

1 week later
#1337 2 years ago
Quoted from Hoser:

Might be joining the club tonight. Oooooooo it's exciting.
I know what people are asking for, but what does an LE (with some nice mods, shooter rod, path of dead, palantir eye, shaker) actually sell for these days?
Just want to make sure this is a fair acquisition, before I pull the trigger. A lot more than I am used to fronting for a machine.
Lend me your wise opinions.

Well, Pinside data says 6,470-7,530, FWIW. I have the standard with colorDMD and some minor mods and I wouldn't take less than 5k for it, not that I'd ever sell it anyway.

#1343 2 years ago

Are you saying it got 7600 plays in someones home? That would be pretty amazing....

#1369 2 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

So....any help on why i have 20 volts on the sword lock coil when I turn on the game?

There should always be 20vdc measured from each coil tab to ground. The game will energize the coil by taking the signal wire to ground. If your coil is energizing as soon as you turn the game on it is usually a shorted transistor, as DCFAN stated. You said you already replaced the transistor. It may be shorted again. There could also be a shorted pre-driver transistor if there is one in the circuit. There could also be a bad chip that sends the signal to the transistor. I had this once on a Monopoly causing the flipper to energize on power up. That was a long time ago but IIRC it was an LS74xxx. I could ck the manual tomorrow.

#1377 2 years ago

One other thing that can cause repeated blown transistors is the diode backwards on the coil. Compare to some other working coils and confirm that the banded/non-banded side of the diode is going to the correct wires.

#1390 2 years ago
Quoted from Radius118:

I have the same issue after rebuilding my LOTR.. I think the ball is just hitting the small scoop too fast and bouncing out. Let me know if you find a solution for this. I am thinking a blue nub of death trimmed and glued down might do the trick.

You might just want to let the game get a little dirty and maybe increase the pitch. I've never really had this issue and there are no mods in that area.

1 week later
#1408 2 years ago

Good source for ROM's. You cannot flash Whitestar with USB. You must swap out the ROM chips. Looks like a set of sound and speech ROM's is $39.


1 week later
#1420 2 years ago

Get the oooh shiney's from Pinball Life. They are often out of stock though.

#1432 2 years ago

If two balls ever get stuck in the ring magnet, turn the game off immediately. If you don't you will blow a fuse and maybe worse, a transistor. That's why some people go into the settings and change DTR to single ball, to alleviate the risk. Sounds to me like you have zero problem with your magnet. Seems more like a lack of flipper power. Rebuild your flippers if you have not. Check to make sure your game is not set up too steep. And make sure the playfield is clean. I do not recommend the PBL stronger flipper coils as you may experience broken plastics like I did.

3 weeks later
#1476 2 years ago
Quoted from LesManley:

Hey guys. I had the ribbon cable upside down going to my display. I think I wrecked the rom. I pulled the chip, erased it and tried burning version 9 to it again, but I still get just a blank DMD. What all should I be burning to the chip for the version 9 of the display rom? Any help is super appreciated. Thanks.

I don't know crap about burning ROM's, but why aren't you on v.10?

1 month later
#1568 2 years ago

Here is the correct switch for the cabinet buttons.


#1594 2 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Posting this as FYI only....hopefully it helps someone.
I initially bought two SW-10A-48 based on the info I've seen. They looked good in the bag but had no caps...no big deal. But as I went to install them noticed they are thicker than the original so I removed a wafer, cut the plastic tubes, and installed them. They work but not without some bending and shaping. Wanted to try and put the correct switches in so ordered the http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=597 500-6889-01. These came with caps but are too short (2 3/4 in.) to reach the buttons. I assume I could mount them higher on the cabinet and get them to work. So....there is one left to try I think
Single flipper button cabinet switch assembly with the new low-arcing "Paliney" alloy contacts.
Replaces the 500-6889-00....but these look too short also. Original switch is roughly 3.5 in long. I've attached a pic of my original switch and the 500-6889-01 switch. Welcome any comments and help.

You could try prying the switch stack apart. Put the longer actuator leaf onto the stack with the correct cap and contacts. It was years ago when I replaced mine and I believe I went through the same trouble you're having.

1 month later
#1645 2 years ago

Hey yelobird, is this the plastic you need? It still has the plastic paper on front and back.

20170629_165152 (resized).jpg

#1663 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

Playing my new-to-me LOTR some, doing some adjustments here and there. A Couple of Questions for the collective:
1) What would cause a Mode like Warg Battle just start on it's own without hitting the ring?? Seems like the modes just start on their own, especially after a quick 1-2 hit on both flippers (but not every time).
2) Does anybody have a spare red plastic that surrounds the right yellow flasher dome by the right flipper??2 Mine is warped from a flasher bulb that overheated.....

1. Could be the optos at the ring entrance are flakey.
2. I can ck and see. I do have a few spare plastics for LOTR.

1 week later
#1678 2 years ago

You want v10.00 for code.

#1696 2 years ago

It drives me nuts when I see people post pictures of blinged out games with colordmds, custom shooter rods, lighted speakers, etc, but still have those fugly yellow Stern price cards. I mean, almost anything is a step up from that!

1 week later
1 week later
#1756 2 years ago
Quoted from jbovenzi:

To the fantastic LOTR fixit team,
I have an issue that I can't seem to fix. Machine works well but upon shooting the ring during normal play, the ball gets stuck in the Ring well and does not drop out onto the playfield or go through the ring and get onto the habitrail.
I think that I have worked it out and it's mechanical. The spinner switch is working well and the Optos are fine as I checked this in the switch matrix. The ball comes in during a mode and just sits there. No movement after the magnet turns off. Checked this with a paper clip and I see that the magnet turns off. Doesn't seem to be a problem electrically.
If I push the ball through with my finger, it goes to the back and everything is fine. Ball returns to the habitrail and play proceeds. Also after the mode is started, the ball goes through the ring and through to the back normally.
Do I need to rebuild the ring assembly? A shim to give it more angle to drop backwards?
Just asking the collective...

Could it be magnetized balls? I mean the ball should fall forward by gravity or get sucked to the back by a pulse of the magnet. Take two balls and put them on a flat surface like a table and see if there is any attraction.

#1767 2 years ago

I also like black on LOTR. It is an intentionally dark game and I think black rubber suits the playfield just fine.

2 weeks later
#1833 2 years ago
Quoted from hawknole:

I confirmed a noise with the switch next to my ring ramp (aka Frodo ramp). That micro switch makes a strange noise occasionally when activated. It is a low buzz, almost sounds like a short. It doesn't happen every time the switch is engaged and nothing seems adversely effected, just the noise doesn't sound right. Does anybody else have such a noise? If this is normal then I won't bother to replace the switch. Or is there some adjustment I can make to the switch?

That switch triggers the ring magnet. Do you think that could be what you are hearing?

3 weeks later
#1905 2 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

How do you know if your pf has the better color registration?

The color registration was off on many LOTR playfields. The easiest place to see it is in Frodo's eyes. If it's off, his eyes look red. On my playfield Frodo looks positively stoned.

1 month later
#2002 2 years ago

Easiest way to troubleshoot this would be to put the game in "ball clear" mode. Cycle through ejecting balls while watching the display. You should see a problem.

1 week later
#2042 2 years ago
Quoted from AUKraut:

lotr_breath had his LOTR set up for a tournament that was held recently that made LOTR play NASTY without any actual playfield changes except the outlines being wide open!!!! It was a real challenge to get ANY multiball, all done by settings changes. Things like the KEEP lanes turning off when they were rolled over when lit.....Maybe he can share those settings with us????

For that tourney I had the outlane posts removed and the inlane posts rubber removed. Tight tilt. Game cleaned and waxed. Fresh bouncy red flipper rubbers. I had all three MB's set to either hard or extra hard. Of course EB's turned off, Specials set for points. I have the extra strong PBL coil on the left, but the normal coil on the right. It was still the longest playing game but it was very reasonable. I set a bounty score of 40M and only two players broke that. The HS was about 52M.

#2056 2 years ago
Quoted from Gunnder:

Hey guys out of the blue the ring shot just keeps triggering on its own. Just started happening. Basically as soon as you hit the start button one of the modes starts. Something to do with the ring magnet maybe? What should I look for when I look under the hood?

If it's at the beginning of a game it could also be caused by the switch inside the Balrog. This is a normally closed switch, meaning when the ball strikes the Balrog the switch opens. When you start a game the Balrog swings out and sometimes triggers the switch causing a mode to start.

#2057 2 years ago
Quoted from kingau:

HI every one
I just joined the lotr club a month ago, and I ran to a problem..
the pop bumpers and balrog, Dark Riders flashers don't flash anymore.
I looked under the playfield, and the connectors and everything is in place.
Has any one here ever ran to this problem?
could this be a bad cap?
Thanks in advance

Have you checked the fuses?

#2061 2 years ago
Quoted from kingau:

thanks for the quick replay guys,
I change all the fuses and still have the same problem.
is there a connector just for that set of flashers in the back box?

It's J6 on the power driver board. The fuse is F7. Do any of the flashers work? I would try replacing the individual flashers if you haven't yet. Check the 20vdc test point on the power driver bd. to make sure the 20v circuit is working.

#2069 1 year ago

I recommend to any LOTR owner to download the manual. It's free!

Here is a snip from the manual that shows the original coils part number.

lotr coils (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#2175 1 year ago
Quoted from pipes:

Damn, there's just so many things you need to do to get this game playing properly.

Not from my experience. All I did was rebuild my flippers and solder a wire back onto the Gimli upkicker. 10 years later and a couple of fork switches and that's about it.

#2180 1 year ago

SilverJets are to be avoided on any games that have magnets.

#2221 1 year ago

I have always heard that removing windings will increase the current which will make the magnet stronger. I found this that makes me believe that is correct.

More current = more magnetic pull

Ohm's Law ... I = V/R where,
...I = Current
...V = Voltage
...R = Resistance

Holding voltage constant, reducing resistance (with fewer windings), increases current.
There are tradeoffs.

I'm sure a bonafide EE can chime in.
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

1 month later
#2428 1 year ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Balrog bashing. Seems I've got to smash the living hell out of mine to register. The switch itself is fine and tests normal, but it seems that there's an awful lot of distance for Balrog to travel. Hitting the bottom of the toy forces the top 90% of it to lean forward, opening up the normally-closed switch. Given the weight of the toy and the tension of the spring, it just seems to be unfairly favored in not registering via a ball strike. Has anyone either changed out the spring or put something behind the toy to reduce the horizontal travel distance needed to open up (register) the switch??

I had to bend the switch arm slightly so that the switch opens up sooner. It's a delicate adjustment but I couldn't live with the 50% or less hits mine was registering.

3 months later
#2963 1 year ago

Yeah, from the left flipper if the shot is hit clean it should go into the ring like nearly 100% of the time. The right flipper shot is angled a bit different but should still stick the majority of the time if hit cleanly. I would ditch the lightning flippers. It's not how the game was designed. There are other ways to make the game more difficult than messing with the most important part of any pinball machine. The flippers.

1 month later
#3102 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have definitely had this happen. It happened to me when the vuk sends it just right and it starts immediately through the lanes (rather than bouncing around at the top a bit). It’s almost like the switches weren’t ready yet. Or the game isn’t counting them yet. Those same switches work fine when there is a pause after the vuk

I remember an adjustment that was added, something like "Ignore path of the dead on kick". It is to prevent the path switches from registering when the upkicker fires the ball. Maybe try changing that setting and see what effect it has?

#3108 1 year ago
Quoted from Lamprey:

I got lucky yesterday and found a, supposed, HUO Lord of the Rings. It is in just about perfect shape and unmodded, except for a color DMD and some cliffy's. I don't want to use the term "minty," but it looks just about brand new. Supper pumped!

Thing of beauty! You don't see many like that.

1 month later
#3212 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So where exactly is that PCB? Tried looking under the pf, but see nothing there.
Also, detached the wire harness that goes up to Balrog (switch and bulb I believe) and humming sound persists.

That Balrog flasher socket is in the circuit for F7. I would replace that socket cause I've never seen anything like that. It could be shorting. If you're still blowing the fuse with the Balrog disconnected, it could be Bridge Rectifier#2. Try disconnecting J6 and J7 to rule out anything on the playfield. If F7 still blows, I would say it could only be a shorted B2. Do you have a meter and do you know how to check a bridge rectifier? Stock up on 5 amp slo blows. You're probably going to go through a bunch to get this problem solved.

balrog socket (resized).JPGbridge2, f7 (resized).JPGlotr playfield (resized).JPGrelay pcb (resized).JPG
#3213 1 year ago

The relay is "O" in one diagram and "20" in the other. It is on the underside of the playfield near the gifts from the elves inserts.

#3221 1 year ago
Quoted from Jgel:

I might be going to look at a LotR machine soon. Any particular thing that I should be looking for? I am unfamiliar with the title so any help would be great.

See if the One Ring shot can be made and the magnet grabs the ball. Look for excessive wear around the flipper buttons. Look at the Arwen plastic between the Paths of the Dead and the Shire. Is it cracked? Is Arwen actually on it? Protector installed? Do hits to the Balrog register OK?

#3222 1 year ago
Quoted from northvibe:

make sure ballrog works, see if there is pf wear from him swinging out as well.
Mmm make sure the little figures are around the pf.
Check the ring shot and make sure the magnet holds the ball, then flings it inside to the ramp.
Check arwin plastic, see if that is there or replaced, or protected. That plastic is super rare.

LOL, we posted at the exact same time!

#3230 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Can anyone confirm if the cab and back box speakers run off the same amp?

Looks like there are three TDA2030A's, U100 - U102 and each one drives a speaker. I can't tell which one drives which speaker from the schematic. They are just labeled 1, 2 , 3 at CN4. You could check the wire colors I suppose to see which speaker is which.

lotr sound (resized).JPG
#3234 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

There are actually only 2, every component marked as "NS" indicated that the component position is Not Stuffed, so there is actually no part on the board.

Oh, Not Stuffed. Cool. I learn something everyday!

1 month later
#3349 1 year ago
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:

Hello, my LOTR is playing fine and works great. However, every single time I power it up, it doesn’t recognize the balls and searches. After the timer goes down, everything goes to normal and works great. Everything also works great from game to game and the machine recognizes balls just fine. However, if I power off the machine, and power it back up, it searches and searches for balls again? I don’t get it? Any idea what’s wrong??

Sounds very possible that it doesn't have the correct number of balls in it.

1 month later
#3390 1 year ago

Sometimes when lock is lit on my LOTR, when the ball is kicked up from the Gimli hole to the sword lock it will award a lock. I'm pretty sure it didn't always do this. Anyone know what would cause this? Thanks!

1 month later
#3467 11 months ago

Let me guess. Broken #20 plastic = PBL special flipper coils?

#3470 11 months ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Let me guess. Broken #20 plastic = PBL special flipper coils?

Let me re-phrase. That's how mine got broken.

#3500 11 months ago

Maybe I'm missing something, but why would you have to re-align the flipper bats if your just replacing the coil? Just remove the coil stop, slide the old coil off, slide the new coil on. No need to take the plunger and link loose from the flipper bat, AFAIK.

1 month later
#3618 10 months ago
Quoted from yuriijos:

Has anybody changed the LE back glass to the standard translite? Since the LE is painted glass I suppose you would need a new frame to mount the standard translite.

There's really not a "frame". Just plexiglass with the translite taped to it. Then the 3 plastic trim pieces and the bottom lift channel. All the plastic pieces are available from PBL, Marco, etc.

1 week later
#3665 9 months ago
Quoted from Damien:

This is all you will ever need:
Vid recommends it, and pretty much everyone that uses it, swears by it.

I agree, the stuff is great. But I bought the really small jar and it has lasted me for years.

2 weeks later
#3828 9 months ago

The issue on some(many) LOTR playfields was color registration. In order to create colors correctly, the Y,M,C,K have to lay EXACTLY on top of each other. When they don't, you get a magenta halo effect around the images. That is why my Frodo looks stoned out of his gourd. It also doesn't bother me because so many of them are like that and it still looks and plays great!

#3834 9 months ago

You don't restart. You just leave it there in that state for so many hours and come back to it.

2 weeks later
#3970 8 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

My Ring magnet is not grabbing the ball. Fuse 20 is good. Connector to magnet is good, though that diode stuck in there is a new on on me. The spinner registers hits. What am I missing?

Does the magnet work in solenoid test? Does the opto in the ring register in switch test?

#3973 8 months ago
Quoted from PhantomO:

Question on ball trough maintenance. When there are only 2 balls in the trough, they dont have enough weight to roll down to the vuk. I have to shake the machine to get them to roll. The switches seem normally positioned. It just seems like they arre sticking to the wallshat is a good strategy to solve this? Clean and polish the trough?
[quoted image][quoted image]

You can clean the trough, sure wouldn't hurt. But I think your balls may be magnetized. Have you tried new balls?

#3987 8 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

The magnet does not work in solenoid test (with the coin door closed!). The opto works in switch test.

You said fuse f20 is good. Did you pull it out of the holder and check it with a meter?

2 weeks later
#4095 8 months ago

Did everyone see John Rhys-Davies on the Twipy awards? So awesome! He did some live LOTR jackpot callouts and presented the award for best callouts. Pretty epic if you are a LOTR fan. Gimli starts around 22:59


2 weeks later
#4141 7 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I double-checked the fuse and it was actually blown. I'm sure that I checked the correct one the first time but when I checked it the 2nd time it was indeed blown. I upgraded it to to a 4 ohm as I've read is recommended and haven't had a problem since. One bit of advice - if you go into the built-in help menu it takes you through a troubleshooting procedure, one of the later steps is to use a wire and short the tab of the magnet transistor to ground to test if the transistor is good and the magnet energizes. Mine tested bad (because the fuse was blown) but I decided to try shorting some nearby transistors to see what would happen. Well, what happened was that I got a spark and blew two transistors , so DON'T DO THAT! I had to replace the 2 transistors and the blown magnet fuse and now all is back to normal with no further issues after several games.

Just for clarity, that's 4 amp, not 4 ohm. Glad you got it fixed!

1 week later
#4178 7 months ago

Mine looks just like in the picture. I have very few balls fly off.

1 week later
#4191 6 months ago

I would check the voltage at the test points on the CPU/sound board. You should have 12 volts at pin 5 of the output transistors. The output transistors are U101 and U102 in the diagram, part # TDA2030A. Can you test the speakers? Do you get any sounds in the sound test menu? Tried raising and lowering the volume with the coin door switches? Also, CN4 would be the likely connector.

I once had a Sega with sound issues and the -12volts was not right. Ended up being a bridge rectifier.

lotr sound (resized).JPG

1 week later
#4216 6 months ago
Quoted from Yodamingus:

Finally a straight up question ..
Now that my Ring Magnet is working again it grabs the ball ..
But then it wavers a bit and sometimes falls out the front of the ring rather then getting pulled back

Any thoughts on this ?
I figure that it should always pull it back and through to the rail ?
The game is level .. ?

Wiggling some in the ring is normal. This is dependent on pitch, not level. You might try adjusting the pitch. Also, what ROMs are you running. On the latest(10.01?) if you press both flippers while the ball is in the ring it will fall out of the front intentionally.

#4253 6 months ago

The threads on the top of that post are trashed. Just replace the post. I'm not sure if that washer even belongs there. The post that neal_w linked above does appear to be the correct post.

#4254 6 months ago

PS, one of the rare instances that Marco is less $ than PBL. LOL

1 week later
#4299 6 months ago

That game is beat to shit. It could be made decent with a lot of TLC. Probably has well over 10k plays on it.

#4320 6 months ago
Quoted from JHPSWE:

Restore done. I’m happy[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]


2 months later
#4573 3 months ago
Quoted from Lazar:

Thanks for the extensive thoughts on potential issues. After reading through all of it, I found fuse F8 to be blown. I replaced it and then it blew immediately upon restart. Any thoughts about what this might be? I appreciate the help.

Bridge rectifier B3 bad possibly?

2 weeks later
#4647 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

I’ve moved it as far down as it will go with the stock location of the wood screws. Any lower and I either have to remove the wood screws or redrill the holes and install the wood screws lower. It works as is, I’ll probably end up just pulling the screws out and using the friction from the housing bolts to hold it in place like the Williams machines do. I was just wondering if anyone had a similar issue and there was something I was missing.

Maybe instead of the shooter too high, the playfield is too low? Are the hooks bent? Can the lock down bar receiver be raised up?

#4679 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinball_Gizzard:

Another question, where do most people have their out lane posts set? Mine is set on the hardest hole which is apparently how it came from the factory but I am considering moving to the middle hole in a home environment.

My outlane posts are removed. Inlane posts have no rubber. Game is still plenty playable.

1 month later
#4860 62 days ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

I’m having an intermittent issue with the ball lock mech on the sword ramp. Sometimes it goes down and back up before it releases a ball. It doesn’t always happen but when it does it seems to be when there are 3 balls in the lock. Is this a common problem?
Everything looks clean. The spring is seated correctly. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!

Magnetized balls

#4866 61 days ago

The magnet hum is normal. If it is super loud just check to see if the screws are loose causing more vibration than normal.

2 weeks later
#4977 44 days ago
Quoted from lhammer610:

Epic fail on a LED conversion. It is too bright. I figure I now have to splurge on an LCD OCD to make the transitions smoother, but many of the lights are still too bright. Problem areas include:
*The green lamps on the Paths of the Dead - switch back to green incandescents?
*The clear inserts in the semi-circle in front of the flippers - go to a yellow color?
*The yellow flashers up front - back to incandescent
*The wired flexible LED behind the acrylic globe - I will put a standard red LED in there.
*The one GI below the left wire ramp - that really should have a plastic covering it - remove it altogether? - Make a plastic for it? - would have to fit the plastic around the screw / wire holder to that ramp.
*I put in white LEDs on the ring in the back panel. They are slightly annoying. Might have to change them to orange?
What have others seen?
The LEDs are single SMDs from Pinball Life. I think they have changed LEDs recently, maybe gone from 3528 to 5050?

I had good luck on my LOTR just using colored incandescent bulbs. I used a few LED's in key inserts like the KEEP letters. I used some amber incandescents in some of the GI. The effect is very subdued and IMHO looks great.

#4990 42 days ago
Quoted from insx:

My end of stroke switches (at least that's what I think they are) don't seem like full switches and nothing goes close enough to activate them anyway. What are they supposed to look like?[quoted image]

You have a blade broken off and missing. The white plastic piece is what actuates it.

3 weeks later
#5196 20 days ago
Quoted from MSLONEKER:

Flipper question. Watched some videos today about getting good. All about flipper technique. He was showing light taps make the flippers move just a little. My lotr is all or nothing. There is no light tapping, there nothing until it engages then its a full slap.

Tap passing is for older solid states and Em's. Modern games are extremely difficult to tap pass on, but I have seen a few players who could pull it off rarely.

3 weeks later
#5335 2 hours ago

Yes, 6K for a HUO LOTR in nice condition is a very reasonable price. I have had my LOTR for over 10 years and it was not HUO. After fixing a few issues it has been nearly trouble free that entire time. ColorDMD is a must!

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