(Topic ID: 112137)

The Lord of the Rings LOTR Journey begins here members club

By skywalker

9 years ago


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#7501 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Unfortunately most don’t work. If you look at the file structure they do not match the factory sound structure.
I will end up making my own.

Please share it when you do

#7502 2 years ago
Quoted from Medic:

Please share it when you do

I will. First crack at it is done. 70% of the sounds/music are the way I want them but I have severe issues with sound levels. Gonna take a while to go through it all.

#7503 2 years ago

Forgot I took this picture of all the different buttons he has

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#7504 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

<snip>
Other than this set and the Mordor set are there any cool designs out there?

There are a few out there.

Retrorefurbs has 3
Screenshot_20210812-125542_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210812-125542_Chrome (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20210812-125600_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210812-125600_Chrome (resized).jpg

Tilt Graphics has one (the mordor you referred to?)
Screenshot_20210812-125828_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210812-125828_Chrome (resized).jpg

And then Pingraffix has their electronic ones with the lightning bolts
Screenshot_20210812-130031_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20210812-130031_Chrome (resized).jpg

#7505 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Forgot I took this picture of all the different buttons he has
[quoted image]

I think some of those aren’t even on his website yet - nice! I’m excited to see what he brings to the southern fried expo next week!

#7506 2 years ago

Since I'm getting back into my games after all the mods I picked up last week, I think I'm finally gonna add a shaker. Pinballlife seems to have the best deal on price. Pinbits has the pal. Where can I get the 10.02 rom and the 10.0 display rom?

#7507 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Since I'm getting back into my games after all the mods I picked up last week, I think I'm finally gonna add a shaker. Pinballlife seems to have the best deal on price. Pinbits has the pal. Where can I get the 10.02 rom and the 10.0 display rom?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-install-shaker-motor-in-lotr-standard-edition/page/6#post-6161237

#7508 2 years ago
Quoted from Travahontas:

I think some of those aren’t even on his website yet - nice! I’m excited to see what he brings to the southern fried expo next week!

Dickinson, Texas is a name I haven't heard in awhile. I grew up in Friendswood, Dickinson was in our district while I was there so played them about a million times across all the sports.

#7509 2 years ago

Went to put in my Eye of Sauron start button. Had to do some solder work to change the bulb holder on my start button. Must be a case of the "earlies" as I don't think the later versions had a Diode. And unfortunately the Eye of Sauron bulb holder has a standard size spade on it and mine is the miniature spade. And the bulb holders are not interchangeable between backshells.
Will modify the new spade into a miniature to avoid modifying my harness and move the Diode over.
Also the new button itself was white plastic painted black so it is all flaking off now that I have it apart. 'Quick swap' they said haha.
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#7510 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

Went to put in my Eye of Sauron start button. Had to do some solder work to change the bulb holder on my start button. Must be a case of the "earlies" as I don't think the later versions had a Diode. And unfortunately the Eye of Sauron bulb holder has a standard size spade on it and mine is the miniature spade. And the bulb holders are not interchangeable between backshells.
Will modify the new spade into a miniature to avoid modifying my harness and move the Diode over.
Also the new button itself was white plastic painted black so it is all flaking off now that I have it apart. 'Quick swap' they said haha.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

I didnt run into this at all. I think I used the original switch so I didn't have to mess with anything and popped it right into the new button and was done.

#7511 2 years ago

I put in new side art from Retro Refurbs. He must have shipped the same day! Got to US quickly then stalled when it hit the USPS. Took postal service forever to get package to me.

Pinball Universe sells great shields for side art. Pinball Life sells them for about $35.

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#7512 2 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I put in new side art from Retro Refurbs. He must have shipped the same day! Got to US quickly then stalled when it hit the USPS. Took postal service forever to get package to me.
Pinball Universe sells great shields for side art. Pinball Life sells them for about $35.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What do the shield look like on?

#7513 2 years ago

Doing some POTD tests Frosted Green far right looks the best I think. Also shown is Ice Blue frosted and Cool White frosted.
Made a custom LEDroll for the one on the right without a cape and a wide stance, and then diffused it for max lighting.

20210815_190858 (resized).jpg20210815_190858 (resized).jpg20210815_185110 (resized).jpg20210815_185110 (resized).jpg20210815_185208 (resized).jpg20210815_185208 (resized).jpg
#7514 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

What do the shield look like on?

They are only on when you lift the playfield up and down for service.

#7515 2 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

What do the shield look like on?

20210816_141657 (resized).jpg20210816_141657 (resized).jpg
#7516 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

Doing some POTD tests Frosted Green far right looks the best I think. Also shown is Ice Blue frosted and Cool White frosted.
Made a custom LEDroll for the one on the right without a cape and a wide stance, and then diffused it for max lighting.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting this. There are many good mods, but I like to DIY whenever its feasible. I have been trying to decide the desired method to place the POTD figurine lights. The one without the cape does limit placement options. I was considering using the post lights and/or the strip lights. The ability to bend the strip lights does make this type more versatile. The light color is another factor. Did you consider the blacklight? Otherwise, I also am considering sunlight white, warm white or green. Cool white seems too bright.

The red you used for the demo is nice, but differs from the green hue too dramatically for me. The picture makes it difficult to determine which light would be most appealing to me because the ambient light effect may be too different with the green strip light under the POTD area. Perhaps a different color light like the ones I mentioned may make the figurine stand out a bit more, but not too much.

The other issue is placing the light inside the figurine for best disguise and light dispersal. I like the idea of placing a small piece of wood or material to adhere the light strip for better light coverage. I was considering using a small drill bit to make an opening within the figurine into the body. Within this opening I could place a small extension of the strip light to get better lighting into the torso. The small light points created by the LEDs are ok. But I have been considering placing material over the strip to get better light diffusion so these points of light are not separately discernible. Any thoughts?

#7517 2 years ago
Quoted from Ed4pin:

Thanks for posting this. There are many good mods, but I like to DIY whenever its feasible. I have been trying to decide the desired method to place the POTD figurine lights. The one without the cape does limit placement options. I was considering using the post lights and/or the strip lights. The ability to bend the strip lights does make this type more versatile. The light color is another factor. Did you consider the blacklight? Otherwise, I also am considering sunlight white, warm white or green. Cool white seems too bright.
The red you used for the demo is nice, but differs from the green hue too dramatically for me. The picture makes it difficult to determine which light would be most appealing to me because the ambient light effect may be too different with the green strip light under the POTD area. Perhaps a different color light like the ones I mentioned may make the figurine stand out a bit more, but not too much.
The other issue is placing the light inside the figurine for best disguise and light dispersal. I like the idea of placing a small piece of wood or material to adhere the light strip for better light coverage. I was considering using a small drill bit to make an opening within the figurine into the body. Within this opening I could place a small extension of the strip light to get better lighting into the torso. The small light points created by the LEDs are ok. But I have been considering placing material over the strip to get better light diffusion so these points of light are not separately discernible. Any thoughts?

All I did was drill a hole in the back of my figure and hot glued a green LED in it. Granted I only have 1 figure in the back corner and not an "army" but it worked well, was really cheap/easy, and looks great. For my mounting, I just disassembled my POTD and used it as a pattern with my pattern cutting bit on my router table. Cut through the plastic like butter. Added a few clear posts and screws and was GTG.

#7518 2 years ago

Just got one and this machine doesnt play the match sequence at end of game.

The "will you look into the mirror" bit.

Anyone know what setting that is? I may be being dense but I cant seem to find it.

#7519 2 years ago
Quoted from Elvishasleft:

Just got one and this machine doesnt play the match sequence at end of game.
The "will you look into the mirror" bit.
Anyone know what setting that is? I may be being dense but I cant seem to find it.

Factory reset.
Turn on the Cave Troll mode.
Turn on free play.

Done.

#7520 2 years ago

Match Feature
Std. Adj. 13, Match Percentage (Default = 8%) can be changed from 0-10%. Changing the percentage to 0% displays the "Match Animation" at the end of the game, however, will never match nor award anything. Changing this adjustment to OFF will not display the "Match Animation" nor award anything.

I keep a note in my LotR folder of ones I use or refer to:
===================================
Standard adjustment 45 fast boot = YES
SA 4 replay levels = 4 (tiers of replays or EBs) ->1
SA 6 Special Award = EB
SA 9 EB Limit = Unlimited -> 0 (extra balls are off like a tournament)
SA 13 Match on/off
SA 15 Tilt Warnings = 3
SA 29 High Score = 10 letters
SA 30 Free Play = Yes
SA 38 Ball save
SA 42 Coindoor Ball save => Yes
SA 49 Tech Alert = coint door and startup
SA 3 replay award = EB ==> replay
FA 33 Cave Troll = ON
FA 34 = consolation balrog = none
FA 35 = 2 ball destroy the ring DTR = 1
FA 36 = Extend attract = Yes

#7521 2 years ago

Ah nice... thanks I was hoping to avoid a full reset.

I know this is a beat to death topic also but flipper wise all you can adjust to calm them down is to set to low power for all coils right?

Not sure what #53, #54 and #55 are referring to.

#7522 2 years ago
Quoted from Elvishasleft:

I know this is a beat to death topic also but flipper wise all you can adjust to calm them down is to set to low power for all coils right?

Not sure what #53, #54 and #55 are referring to.

Those are the flipper power settings in the software but they do not appear to work from what I have tried. I guess the boards used don't have that feature, so the setting does nothing.

#7523 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

All I did was drill a hole in the back of my figure and hot glued a green LED in it. Granted I only have 1 figure in the back corner and not an "army" but it worked well, was really cheap/easy, and looks great. For my mounting, I just disassembled my POTD and used it as a pattern with my pattern cutting bit on my router table. Cut through the plastic like butter. Added a few clear posts and screws and was GTG.

I made polycarbonate (Lexan) platforms for each of the 4 POTD figurines which correspond to the 4 lights. Like you, I removed the old posts and replaced them with the clear, taller ones which I could place screws to secure them in place. No cutting of the original POTD plastic was required. The platforms are made more easily with a laser cutter or CNC. I don't have those readily available so making a cardboard templet and cutting the platforms out of Lexan with a Dremel was my method. It does take some cutting and polishing of the platform to remove the melted polycarbonate on the edges. I made the platforms to match the lines created by the POTD platform and wireforms. I do like the way the figurines move when the ball goes through the path. The platforms are well secured. The figurines are attached to the platforms using miniature screws with transparent, anti-vibration spacers between the figurines and each of their platforms. I will place the LED Matrix wiring and lights once I decide on the light color.
It is relatively easy to drill into the figurines. That is my plan for the one without a cape. I was thinking that drilling from the bottom is less noticeable. But I don't know if it will effect its stability. I would like to know your thoughts on LED light colors too. Frosted LED is optimal. But blacklight, sunlight white, warm white and green are still undecided as I mentioned previously.

#7524 2 years ago
Quoted from Ed4pin:

I made polycarbonate (Lexan) platforms for each of the 4 POTD figurines which correspond to the 4 lights. Like you, I removed the old posts and replaced them with the clear, taller ones which I could place screws to secure them in place. No cutting of the original POTD plastic was required. The platforms are made more easily with a laser cutter or CNC. I don't have those readily available so making a cardboard templet and cutting the platforms out of Lexan with a Dremel was my method. It does take some cutting and polishing of the platform to remove the melted polycarbonate on the edges. I made the platforms to match the lines created by the POTD platform and wireforms. I do like the way the figurines move when the ball goes through the path. The platforms are well secured. The figurines are attached to the platforms using miniature screws with transparent, anti-vibration spacers between the figurines and each of their platforms. I will place the LED Matrix wiring and lights once I decide on the light color.
It is relatively easy to drill into the figurines. That is my plan for the one without a cape. I was thinking that drilling from the bottom is less noticeable. But I don't know if it will effect its stability. I would like to know your thoughts on LED light colors too. Frosted LED is optimal. But blacklight, sunlight white, warm white and green are still undecided as I mentioned previously.

You misunderstood, I didn't cut the POTD PF plastic. I used it as a pattern to cut the plastic platform my figure sits on. I created an exact copy of the shape of the path below it.

I messed with different colors but green looked the best to match the green translucent look from the movie.

20210819_164300 (resized).jpg20210819_164300 (resized).jpg
#7525 2 years ago
Quoted from Jarbyjibbo:

You misunderstood, I didn't cut the POTD PF plastic. I used it as a pattern to cut the plastic platform my figure sits on. I created an exact copy of the shape of the path below it.
I messed with different colors but green looked the best to match the green translucent look from the movie.
[quoted image]

You did a great job matching the lines from the POTD platform. Also, I like that you can see the ball rolling underneath. You placed the Legolas figurine further up the wireform than I have seen others do. Visually it works in that position too. So many options! I placed my Legolas below the gate like others. I wanted it to slow the ball down so it reduced the probability of the ball falling off the ramp. It worked, but the ramp has been slowly rotating so I have to fixate it better since the balls do impact it. Placing the green light in the torso creates a nice illusion in the lower part too. Thanks for posting your work.

#7526 2 years ago
Quoted from Ed4pin:

Thanks for posting this. There are many good mods, but I like to DIY whenever its feasible. I have been trying to decide the desired method to place the POTD figurine lights. The one without the cape does limit placement options. I was considering using the post lights and/or the strip lights. The ability to bend the strip lights does make this type more versatile. The light color is another factor. Did you consider the blacklight? Otherwise, I also am considering sunlight white, warm white or green. Cool white seems too bright.
The red you used for the demo is nice, but differs from the green hue too dramatically for me. The picture makes it difficult to determine which light would be most appealing to me because the ambient light effect may be too different with the green strip light under the POTD area. Perhaps a different color light like the ones I mentioned may make the figurine stand out a bit more, but not too much.
The other issue is placing the light inside the figurine for best disguise and light dispersal. I like the idea of placing a small piece of wood or material to adhere the light strip for better light coverage. I was considering using a small drill bit to make an opening within the figurine into the body. Within this opening I could place a small extension of the strip light to get better lighting into the torso. The small light points created by the LEDs are ok. But I have been considering placing material over the strip to get better light diffusion so these points of light are not separately discernible. Any thoughts?

The red light was just for fun, must be a green glow for me to retain the movie scenario. I used paper strips to diffuse my points of light. It looks odd in the pic but is one solid glow in person. I will also be incorporating blacklight, just needed to see which green glow I liked best. I like your upskirt drill idea, may try that if the skirt model glow doesn't match the rest. I have 2 sets of armies, so I may skip running the skirt model all together.

The strip lights get cut to length, so the glow will be restricted to the figure.

Here is another way to do the lights with just plain LED's near feet level. This came in a package deal with some other stuff, but was only setup for 2 figures and not what I wanted to do. Will post some pics when I finish mine.

20210819_233020 (resized).jpg20210819_233020 (resized).jpg
#7527 2 years ago

Decided there was too much ball wear on my POTD that wouldn't wipe off with Naptha, so I broke open my new Novus 1,2,3 set and polishing kit, to try all that out.
A million times better. Will probably do another pass to completely eliminate any fine scratches that nobody will ever see anyway. The trick not mentioned in the instructions is to keep hitting it with spray bottle/water. Gotta keep the compound wet.

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All wear gone, looking respectable
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#7528 2 years ago
Quoted from Morgoth00:

The red light was just for fun, must be a green glow for me to retain the movie scenario. I used paper strips to diffuse my points of light. It looks odd in the pic but is one solid glow in person. I will also be incorporating blacklight, just needed to see which green glow I liked best. I like your upskirt drill idea, may try that if the skirt model glow doesn't match the rest. I have 2 sets of armies, so I may skip running the skirt model all together.
The strip lights get cut to length, so the glow will be restricted to the figure.
Here is another way to do the lights with just plain LED's near feet level. This came in a package deal with some other stuff, but was only setup for 2 figures and not what I wanted to do. Will post some pics when I finish mine.
[quoted image]

I would enjoy seeing your pictures. My POTD figurines are in place without lighting yet. I will post mine when I complete the lighting install. The other small but significant mod I made was to modify one of the bases for the figurines. I did not use bases under the POTD figurines, personal preference. I used one of the bases to prevent the ball from hitting the left upper sidewall and to stop the ball from having a place to get stuck. It was simple. I drilled a hole through the base in the corner which left the skulls in the most visible position. Any slight modifications to the upper surface were made using a Dremel so the post would fit more flush. The feet placement points were eliminated using a Dremel with a small carbide disk. Also easy, no paint needed. I placed it beneath the most upper left post which I modified to hold the base and the king of the dead figurine placed on a transparent platform which I DIYed. Now the ball comes out of the VUK and hits the base. It never gets stuck or hits the wall. The visuals look good and it does not block the view of anything.
I enjoy seeing all the ways people come up with to display the POTD area. Keep the ideas and pictures coming!

#7529 2 years ago

I need some expert help please. My right flipper is not moving! The button works to change the display and scroll through the menu display. The left flipper works fine. I have never had any one-sided flipper issues in the past. I have a Dec 2003 LOTR (not LE) which I have been the sole owner since then. Because of medical issues, I have had time to do repairs, upgrades and mods for the last 2 years. Everything has been working well since I placed the full Pinsound package. Thanks to all who helped me through that sharade!
My flipper power had been slowly decreasing lately. So as many have suggested, I decided to buy some of the new medium strength coils off of Ebay. I installed them about a week ago. They worked great until yesterday. When I turned it on, booted up the machine, and pressed the game start button - the right flipper did not move. The left flipper works fine. The game reset after about thirty seconds. I turned it off. When I inspected the machine, the right flipper fuse was blown. I replaced it with a new 3A fuse. Then I continued troubleshooting for the cause. Nothing looked burnt. Mechanically, both flippers work smoothly with manual movement. I did not replace the flipper assemblies because they did not show any significant wear. I did clean the flipper assemblies in place without disassembling them. No lubricant was added or needed.
Both original coils had some soot as expected, especially on the outside edges. I expect the heat damage is what finally caused the flippers to weaken. Not bad for almost 18 years of home use. I went through the DR diagnostics. Not very helpful. I have read the manual several times and tried finding information posted on the internet. Nothing conclusive and very frustrating. My only thought is to desolder the new coil and replace with the old coil to see if its the new coil or its wiring. This is not my favorite option to proceed. Since I have no prior experience with flipper coils, my only self-directed course is more trial and error. Please help.

#7530 2 years ago
Quoted from Ed4pin:

I need some expert help please. My right flipper is not moving! The button works to change the display and scroll through the menu display. The left flipper works fine. I have never had any one-sided flipper issues in the past. I have a Dec 2003 LOTR (not LE) which I have been the sole owner since then. Because of medical issues, I have had time to do repairs, upgrades and mods for the last 2 years. Everything has been working well since I placed the full Pinsound package. Thanks to all who helped me through that sharade!
My flipper power had been slowly decreasing lately. So as many have suggested, I decided to buy some of the new medium strength coils off of Ebay. I installed them about a week ago. They worked great until yesterday. When I turned it on, booted up the machine, and pressed the game start button - the right flipper did not move. The left flipper works fine. The game reset after about thirty seconds. I turned it off. When I inspected the machine, the right flipper fuse was blown. I replaced it with a new 3A fuse. Then I continued troubleshooting for the cause. Nothing looked burnt. Mechanically, both flippers work smoothly with manual movement. I did not replace the flipper assemblies because they did not show any significant wear. I did clean the flipper assemblies in place without disassembling them. No lubricant was added or needed.
Both original coils had some soot as expected, especially on the outside edges. I expect the heat damage is what finally caused the flippers to weaken. Not bad for almost 18 years of home use. I went through the DR diagnostics. Not very helpful. I have read the manual several times and tried finding information posted on the internet. Nothing conclusive and very frustrating. My only thought is to desolder the new coil and replace with the old coil to see if its the new coil or its wiring. This is not my favorite option to proceed. Since I have no prior experience with flipper coils, my only self-directed course is more trial and error. Please help.

Just throw some Alligator clip jumpers between the connection and your other coil. Save you the solder work.
Another thing would be to run a jumper from Q16 tab to ground and see if the flipper pops up solid. Then you know it's the transistor/capacitor/resistor group. Blown fuse sounds like the transistor was stuck on.

#7531 2 years ago

This can start with a coil diode issue, a bad diode connection possibly from your last coil upgrade will knock out the fuse and driver transistor. I’ve replaced these parts every few years due to a diode issue knocking out upstream components in an LOTR on location.

#7532 2 years ago

Quick question, folks.

I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.

I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.

Looking at the LoTR manual, it looks like it has bayonet and wedge bulb socket holders, so that the insert/GI bulbs are relatively easy to replace, and an extensive diagnostics menu - much like my Fish Tales. Can you confirm that?

#7533 2 years ago
Quoted from Veemonroe:

Quick question, folks.
I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.
I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.
Looking at the LoTR manual, it looks like it has bayonet and wedge bulb socket holders, so that the insert/GI bulbs are relatively easy to replace, and an extensive diagnostics menu - much like my Fish Tales. Can you confirm that?

Yes to both

#7534 2 years ago
Quoted from Veemonroe:

Quick question, folks.
I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.
I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.
Looking at the LoTR manual, it looks like it has bayonet and wedge bulb socket holders, so that the insert/GI bulbs are relatively easy to replace, and an extensive diagnostics menu - much like my Fish Tales. Can you confirm that?

Just my own personal experience but I have a routed game and have not had any major or particularly difficult issues. Lots of tweaking because the ball really flies around (that is half the fun) but I wouldn't be afraid to get one. I have four Williams from around 1990 and two 2003 Sterns (Whitestar) and they don't seem any more difficult to work than the Williams. Different interface but otherwise all the same basic stuff.

#7535 2 years ago
Quoted from Veemonroe:

Quick question, folks.
I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.
I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.
Looking at the LoTR manual, it looks like it has bayonet and wedge bulb socket holders, so that the insert/GI bulbs are relatively easy to replace, and an extensive diagnostics menu - much like my Fish Tales. Can you confirm that?

LOTR is not necessarily a "later model Stern" in regards to serviceability. That doesn't come until more recent Spike iterations where you have large surface mount LED boards. Even then it's not that hard to service, it's just more expensive since you may have to replace the board. Definitely don't let anything like that deter you from one of the best pins ever made.

#7536 2 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

They are only on when you lift the playfield up and down for service.

That's even better. I've definitely scratched up a few of tome

Quoted from Veemonroe:

Quick question, folks.
I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.
I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.
Looking at the LoTR manual, it looks like it has bayonet and wedge bulb socket holders, so that the insert/GI bulbs are relatively easy to replace, and an extensive diagnostics menu - much like my Fish Tales. Can you confirm that?

Honestly, if it's in solid condition get it. Hard to regret getting one of the best games ever made. If issues happen down the road there's plenty of people here that can help.

#7537 2 years ago
Quoted from Veemonroe:

Quick question, folks.
I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.
I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.

That guy is an F'ing joke with an agenda. LOTR is one of the easiest machines to service and in a home environment will have very few issues once dialed in. Just get it and don't look back!

#7538 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

That guy is an F'ing joke with an agenda. LOTR is one of the easiest machines to service and in a home environment will have very few issues once dialed in. Just get it and don't look back!

Got to say...i agree. I have a LOTR and a Simpsons...and they are easy and fun to work on.

#7539 2 years ago
Quoted from LOTR_breath:

That guy is an F'ing joke with an agenda. LOTR is one of the easiest machines to service and in a home environment will have very few issues once dialed in. Just get it and don't look back!

Thanks! That’s what I wanted to know.

I know the Spike Sterns are more expensive and/or harder to service, and I didn’t know if the pre-Spike Sterns were harder to service than my FT. Sounds like LoTR is fine, which is great news!

#7540 2 years ago
Quoted from Veemonroe:

Quick question, folks.
I’m considering a LoTR as my second pinball machine. My first machine is a Williams Fish Tales.
I’ve watched the Pinball Expert’s somewhat scary videos about the non-user serviceability of later-model Sterns.
Looking at the LoTR manual, it looks like it has bayonet and wedge bulb socket holders, so that the insert/GI bulbs are relatively easy to replace, and an extensive diagnostics menu - much like my Fish Tales. Can you confirm that?

I have switched about 15 machines of all ages over to LED. Of all the machines I have replaced, the LOTR has been the easiest to LED. They have a unique (to the ones I have serviced) plastic mount holding a wedge base under all of the inserts. You can replace 90% of the games bulbs without any tools.

The only thing on there not easy to replace is the bulb in the Balrog, which is a factory LED to my knowledge (along with the LEDs powering the rings in the center).

Mine has been rock solid in the time I've had it. The only other machine of this vintage I've had was a Simpsons Pinball party which was also rock solid.

From a serviceability point of view, I'd put this in the top 5% of being user friendly.

#7541 2 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

The only thing on there not easy to replace is the bulb in the Balrog, which is a factory LED to my knowledge.

There are 2 types. One has the bayonnet socket for a #89 incandescent bulb. The other socket type is wedge for a LED. I’ve had/seen both types.

As indicated in the manual you can’t just switch sockets as the voltages/wiring is different for both types.

#7542 2 years ago
Quoted from Scandell:

Got to say...i agree. I have a LOTR and a Simpsons...and they are easy and fun to work on.

I agree. I also have LOTR and TSPP. Both easy to work on.

#7543 2 years ago

I want to change the color of the legs, side rails and lockdown bar on my game. Send me pics of what you have done.

Thanks

#7544 2 years ago

I'd recommend going to the top and click "view topic image gallery". Many people have already posted their work, including myself:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-lord-of-the-rings-journey-begins-members-club/page/75#post-4826856

You can also check out the powder coat thread as well.

#7545 2 years ago
Quoted from fossmin:

I want to change the color of the legs, side rails and lockdown bar on my game. Send me pics of what you have done.
Thanks

I was lucky enough to be able to have Mike Chestnutt brass on mine. He did great work.

7D7E6035-AF4A-4BA5-A5A5-CF4DECADF4C4 (resized).jpeg7D7E6035-AF4A-4BA5-A5A5-CF4DECADF4C4 (resized).jpegAA76760D-E276-4C25-AA7A-ABCFAA228D6D (resized).jpegAA76760D-E276-4C25-AA7A-ABCFAA228D6D (resized).jpeg
#7546 2 years ago
Quoted from hollywood:

I was lucky enough to be able to have Mike Chestnutt brass on mine. He did great work.
[quoted image][quoted image]

His work is legendary. That brass is spectacular! Chris Royalty is doing great work now, keeping Mike’s love of pinball bling alive. Fossmin could contact Chris about doing something like this.

#7547 2 years ago

Hello, I have a customer and the pinballs are becoming magnetized causing issues. Wondering what pinballs LOTR owners typically use to solve the issue? Thanks in advance! JR checking online and cant find them.

#7548 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

Hello, I have a customer and the pinballs are becoming magnetized causing issues. Wondering what pinballs LOTR owners typically use to solve the issue? Thanks in advance! JR checking online and cant find them.

I just buy new balls.

#7549 2 years ago
Quoted from pinballplusMN:

Hello, I have a customer and the pinballs are becoming magnetized causing issues. Wondering what pinballs LOTR owners typically use to solve the issue? Thanks in advance! JR checking online and cant find them.

Carbon steel pinballs
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-pinball-standard-size.html

#7550 2 years ago

Agreed, just happens over time. Get new balls. Honestly they should be replacing balls fairly often as good PM care which if you do will prevent them from being in the game long enough to magnetize.

Depending on how heavy the play counts are, every 6-12 months is what I use.

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